DIAGRAM 3.

From D to 16 is 1 inch.

The sidebody seam is now drawn from 11 down to 16, with a slight round.

Go out from G to the front line ½ inch and shape the front from N,

passing the star near G, and touching at H.

Divide the distance G K into 3 parts, which gives S and T.

Place point U ½ inch back of S.

Divide the distance H and J into 3 parts, giving points Q and R.

Draw lines from U through Q and from T through R, for the center of the

darts.

Make V ⅓ from U to Q, and make W ½ inch higher.

Measure the pattern from C to D and 16 to H, which will be found to be

17 inches, an amount much too great for the size of the waist.

The amount _that it is too large_ must be taken out in darts, two of

which we take out on every waist.

The size of the pattern is 17 inches.

Pattern, 17 inches.

½ waist, 12 inches.

——

Difference, 5 inches.

We add a cut under arm of ½ inch, which amount is to be taken from this

5 inches, leaving 4½ inches for the darts. This gives us 2¼ inches for

each dart, which amount is placed equally on each side of the center

lines Q and R.

From Q, therefore, to 4 and 5 1⅛ inch, and from R to 6 and 7 is also 1⅛

inch.

Now draw the darts.

[Illustration: DIA. 4]

The "Keystone" jacket and dress cutter · 第 24 / 113 题