_=MARTINGALES.=_ Many gamblers believe that as the science of

probabilities teaches us that events will equalise themselves in time,

all that is necessary is to devise some system that will keep a person

from guessing, so that he may catch the pendulum as it swings; and to

add to it some system of betting, so that he will have the best of

it in the long run. Some content themselves with playing a “system”

against banking games, which is merely a guide to the placing of the

bets, the simplest example of which would be to bet always on heads if

a coin was tossed a thousand times, or to bet on nothing but red at

Roulette. Others depend more on martingales, which are guides to the

amount of the bets themselves, irrespective of what they are placed on.

The most common form of martingale is called _=doubling up=_, which

proceeds upon the theory that if you lose the first time and bet double

the amount the next time, and continue to double until you win, you

must eventually win the original amount staked. If there was no end to

your capital, and no betting limit to the game, this would be an easy

way to make money; but all banking games have studied these systems,

and have so arranged matters that they can extend their heartiest

welcome to those who play them.

In the first place, by simply doubling up you are giving the bank

the best of it, because you are not getting the proper odds. If you

double up five times you are betting 16 to 1; but the odds against five

successive events are 31 to 1, as we have already seen, and the bank

should pay you 31 instead of 16. You should not only double, but add

the original amount of the stake each time, betting 1, 3, 7, 15, 31,

63, and so on. If you do this, you will win the amount of your original

stake for every bet you make, instead of only for every time you win.

This looks well, but as a matter of fact doubling up is only another

way of borrowing small sums which will have to be paid back in one

large sum when you can probably least afford it.

Suppose the game is Faro, the chips five dollars a stack, and the

limit on cases twenty-five dollars. The limit on cases will then be

400 chips. If eight successive events go against your “system,” which

they will do about once in 255 times, your next bet will be beyond the

limit, and the banker will not accept it. At Monte Carlo the smallest

bet is a dollar, and the limit is $2,400. They roll about 4,000 coups

a week, and if you were to bet on every one of them, doubling up, you

would win about $1,865, one dollar at a time, and would lose $4,092

simply through being unable to follow your system beyond the limit

of the game during the two or three occasions, in the 4,000 coups,

that your system would go against you for eleven or more coups in

succession. It is useless to say it would not go against you so often,

for probabilities teach us that it would be more wonderful if it did

not than if it did.

It must never be forgotten that the most wonderful things that happen

are not more wonderful than those that don’t happen. If you tossed

a coin a thousand times, and did not once toss heads eight times in

succession, it would be four times more surprising than if you tossed

heads ten times in succession.

Bets

Won. Lost.

10 -

9 -

8 -

- 7

- 8

9 -

- 8

- 9

10 -

- 9

----------

46 41

_=Progression.=_ This is a favourite martingale with those who have

not the courage or the money to double up. It consists in starting

with a certain amount for the first bet, say ten dollars, and adding a

dollar every time the bet is lost, or taking off a dollar every time

a bet is won. If the player wins as many bets as he loses, and there

is no percentage against him, he gets a dollar for every bet he wins,

no matter how many bets he makes, or in what order the bets are won

and lost, so that the number won equals the number lost. That this is

so may be easily demonstrated by setting down on a sheet of paper any

imaginary order of bets, such as the ten shown in the margin, five of

which are won, and five lost; the net profit on the five bets won being

five dollars. No matter how correctly the player may be guessing, and

how much the luck runs his way, he wins smaller and smaller amounts,

until at last he is “pinched off.” But if a long series of events goes

against him his bets become larger and larger, but he must keep up the

progression until he gets even. If ten bets go his way he wins $55; if

ten go against him he loses $145.

It is said that Pettibone made a fortune playing progression at Faro,

which is very likely, for among the thousands of men who play it

the probabilities are that one will win all the time, just as the

probabilities are that if a thousand men play ten games of Seven

Up, some man will win all ten games. At the same time it is equally

probable that some man will lose all ten.

Some players progress, but never pinch, keeping account on a piece of

paper how many bets they are behind, and playing the maximum until they

have won as many bets as they have lost. Against a perfectly fair game,

with no percentage and no limit, and with capital enough to follow the

system to the end, playing progression would pay a man about as much as

he could make in any good business with the same capital and with half

the worry; but as things really are in gambling houses and casinos, all

martingales are a delusion and a snare. It is much better, if one must

gamble, to trust to luck alone, and it is an old saying that the player

without a system is seldom without a dollar. It is the men with systems

who have to borrow a stake before they can begin to play.

Such matters as calculating the probability of a certain horse getting

a place, the odds against all the horses at the post being given, would

be out of place in a work of this kind; but those interested in such

chances may find rules for ascertaining their probability in some of

the following text books.

TEXT BOOKS.

Calcul de Probabilité, by Bertrand.

Philosophy of Whist, by Dr. Pole.

Winning Whist, by Emory Boardman.

Chance and Luck, by R.A. Proctor.

Complete Poker Player, by John Blackbridge.

Bohn’s Handbook of Games.

Betting and Gambling, by Major Churchill.

TEN PINS.

The standard American game of Ten Pins is played upon an _=alley=_ 41

or 42 inches wide, and 60 feet long from the head pin to the foul or

scratch line, from behind which the player must deliver his ball. There

should be at least 15 feet run back of the foul line, and the gutters

on each side of the alley must be deep enough to allow a ball to pass

without touching any of the pins standing on the alley.

[Illustration:

7 8 9 10

4 5 6

2 3

1

]

_=The Pins=_ are spotted as shown in the margin, the centres 12 inches

apart, and those of the back row 3 inches from the edge of the pit. The

regulation pins are 15 inches high, 2¼ diam. at the base, 15 inches

circumference 4½ from the bottom, and 5¼ at the neck. _=The Balls=_

must not exceed 27 inches in circumference in any direction, but

smaller balls may be used.

_=Frames.=_ Each player rolls ten frames or innings, in each of which

he is supposed to have three balls, although as a matter of fact he

rolls two only. In match games, two alleys are used, and the players

roll one inning on each alternately.

_=A Strike=_ is made when all ten pins are knocked down with the first

ball of the innings, and it is scored on the blackboard with a cross,

the number of pins made with the three balls being filled in afterward.

_=A Spare=_ is made when all ten pins are knocked down with the two

balls of one inning, and it is marked with a diagonal stroke. If the

player fails to get either a strike or a spare, it is a _=Break=_,

marked with a horizontal line, under which is written the actual number

of pins down. After each ball is rolled any pins that have fallen on

the alley are called _=deadwood=_, and must be removed before the

second ball is rolled.

_=Counting.=_ If a player makes a strike in one inning, all that he

makes on the next two balls rolled, whether in one inning or not,

counts also on the strike, so as to give him the total score on three

balls for the frame. Three successive strikes would give him 30 points

on the first frame, with a ball still to roll to complete the second

frame, and two balls to roll to complete the third. If he got two

strikes in succession, and 5 pins on the first ball of the third frame,

4 on the second ball, the first frame would be worth 25, the second

frame 19, and the break on the third frame 9; making his total score 53

for the three frames.

If the player makes a spare in one inning, all the pins knocked down by

the first ball of the next inning count also on the spare. Suppose a

spare to be followed by a strike, the frame in which the spare was made

would be worth 20. If he made 5 pins only, the spare would be worth 15.

Although the player is supposed to have three balls in each inning, and

is allowed to count all he makes on three balls if he gets a strike

or a spare, he is not allowed to roll three balls on a break. It was

formerly the custom to let him roll the third ball on the chance of

getting a break of 10. This was afterward changed to giving him 10

pins, without rolling for them, if he got 9 on two balls; but the

present rule is to call it a break if he does not get a strike or a

spare in two balls, and not to waste time in rolling the third ball.

_=Scoring.=_ Instead of putting down the amount made in each inning,

the total of the frame is added to the total of the previous score, so

that the last figure put down shows the total score up to and including

that frame. The following illustration shows the total score of a

player for ten innings. The top line of figures gives the number of the

frame. The second shows the number of pins knocked down by each ball

rolled, and the third line shows how the scores would be actually put

down on the blackboard, the strike, spare, and break marks being placed

above the figures. With the exception of the second line of figures,

which is put in for purposes of illustration only, this might be a copy

of an actual score.

Frames | 1 | 2 | 3| 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10

--------+---+---+--+---+---+---+---+---+---+-----

Pins |8-2|5-5|10|9-0|7-2|8-2|10 |8-2|8-1|7-3-9

--------+---+---+--+---+---+---+---+---+---+-----

| \ | \ | X| - | - | \ | X | \ | - | \

Score |15 |35 |54|63 |72 |92 |112|140|149|168

As the player made a spare on the last frame, he had another ball to

roll, on what was practically a new frame, with which he made 9 pins.

_=Averages.=_ If a team is playing a match, and one of the players

is unavoidably absent, it is the custom to give him credit for his

average, according to the records of his previous games during the

tournament or the season. This is considered better than appointing a

substitute to play for him.

There are a great many varieties of Ten Pins, the most interesting

of which will be found described in the following Laws of the

game, which are reprinted here by the kind permission of the

Brunswick-Balke-Collender Co., from their 1908 edition of the “Bowler’s

Guide.”

BOWLING ALLEY LAWS. RULES AND REGULATIONS GOVERNING THE GAME OF

AMERICAN TEN PINS.

_Revised at Louisville, Ky., March 19-21, 1906. In effect Sept. 1,

1906._

The alleys upon which the game shall be played shall not be less than

41 nor more than 42 inches in width. The length from the centre of No.

1 pin spot to the foul line shall be 60 feet. Back of the foul line

there shall be a clear run of not less than 15 feet. The pin spots

shall be clearly and distinctly described on or imbedded in the alleys

and shall be so placed 12 inches apart from centre to centre. They

shall be 2¼ inches in diameter. The pin spots numbered 7, 8, 9 and 10

shall be placed 3 inches from the pit edge of the alleys, measuring

from the edge to the centre of such pin spots.

The pins shall be spotted on the pin spots placed upon the alleys

according to the following diagram, and the pins and spots shall be

known by the numbers as follows:

[Illustration:

7 8 9 10

4 5 6

2 3

1

]

The pins shall be of the following design and measurements: 15

inches in height, 2¼ inches in diameter at their base, 15 inches in

circumference at a point 4½ inches from their base, 11⅝ inches in

circumference at a point 7¼ inches from their base, 5¼ inches in

circumference at the neck, a point 10 inches from the base; 8 inches in

circumference at the head, a point 13½ inches from the base. The taper

from point to point shall be gradual, so that all lines shall have a

graceful curve.

The balls shall not in any case exceed 27 inches in circumference nor

exceed 16 pounds in weight. Any sized ball of less circumference or

weight may be used.

Two alleys immediately adjoining each other shall be used in all games.

The contesting teams shall successively and in regular order roll one

frame on one alley, and for the next frame alternate and use the other

alley, so alternating each frame until the game is completed.

In delivering the ball the player must not permit any part of his foot,

while any portion thereof is in contact with the alleys, to rest or

extend on, over or beyond the foul line, nor shall any part of his

person be permitted to come in contact with any part of the alleys

beyond the foul line, at any time before the delivered ball shall have

reached the pins. A ball delivered contrary to the provisions of this

rule shall be a foul ball, and shall be so declared by the umpire

immediately such ball so becomes foul.

No count shall be made on a foul ball, and any pins which are knocked

down or displaced thereby shall be at once respotted. A foul ball shall

count as a ball rolled against the player.

Pins which are knocked down or displaced by a ball which leaves the

alley before reaching the pins, or from a ball rebounding from the rear

cushions, do not count, and they shall be immediately respotted.

Every ball delivered, unless it be declared a dead ball by the umpire,

shall be counted against the player.

Pins which are knocked down by another pin rebounding in the play from

the side partition or rear cushion are counted as pins down.

Pins which are knocked down or displaced from any cause except by a

fairly delivered ball shall in all cases be respotted.

Should a player by mistake roll on the wrong alley, or out of his turn,

or be interfered with in his play by another bowler or spectator, or

should any of the pins at which he is playing be displaced or knocked

down in any manner before his delivered ball reaches the pins, or

should his ball come in contact with any foreign obstacle on the

alleys, then the ball so delivered by him shall be immediately declared

a dead ball by the umpire, and such ball shall not count, and shall be

immediately re-rolled by the player after the cause for declaring such

ball dead has been removed.

Pins which are knocked down by a fair ball, and which remain lying on

the alley or in the gutters, are termed dead wood, and shall be removed

before the next ball is rolled.

Should a standing pin fall by removing dead wood, such pin or pins

shall be at once respotted.

Should a pin be broken or otherwise badly damaged during the game, it

shall be at once replaced by another as nearly uniform with the set in

use as possible. The umpire shall in all such cases be the sole judge

in the matter of replacing such pin or pins.

Each player shall roll two balls in each frame except when he shall

make a strike, or when a second strike or spare is made in the tenth

frame, when the player shall complete that frame by rolling a third

ball. In such cases the frame shall be completed on the alley on which

the first strike or spare is made.

A strike is made when the player bowls down the ten pins with his first

ball delivered in any frame and is credited and designated in the score

by an X in the upper right hand corner of the frame, and the count in

such frame is left open until the player shall have rolled his next two

balls, when all pins made, counting ten for a strike, shall be credited

therein.

A spare is made when the player bowls down all the pins with his second

ball in any frame, and is credited and designated with / in the upper

right hand corner of the frame in which it is made. The count in such

frame is left open until such player shall roll his next ball in the

succeeding frame, when the number of pins rolled down thereby shall

be added to the ten represented by his spare, and the total shall be

credited therein.

A break is made in all cases where the player does not secure either a

strike or a spare in a frame, and in such cases only the number of pins

knocked down are credited in the frame where the break is made.

If at the end of the tenth frame the team scores shall be a tie,

another frame shall be immediately bowled, and play is so continued

until at the close of even frames one of the teams shall have a greater

number of pins than their opponents, which shall conclude the game.

COCKED HAT.

The game is played with a head pin and the right and left corner pins

as shown in the following diagram:

[Illustration:

O . . O

. . .

. .

O

]

Balls not exceeding six inches must be bowled, and they must be rolled

down the alley (not cast or thrown). The rules of American Ten Pins

except in St. Louis, where there is a special association with local

rules, generally govern this game also, with the exception of three

balls instead of two to the frame, but strikes and spares count three

instead of ten, and each pin counts one as in Ten Pins. If the bowler

knocks down three pins with the ball which is first bowled, in any

frame in the game of Cocked Hat, it is a strike, and counts three,

and is marked on the blackboard the same as in Ten Pins. What pins the

bowler knocks down in the second frame with his first two balls must

be reckoned as in Ten Pins, i.e., one for each pin bowled down, which

pin or pins must be added to the strike and placed to the credit of

the player in the inning where the strike was scored (the strike being

computed as three); such strike must be added to pins knocked down with

the two succeeding spare balls; thus, should the bowler score a strike,

and should he in the next new frame knock down but one pin with his

two spare balls, the strike and pin scored must be computed as 4--the

strike counting 3 and the pin 1.

Poodles, or balls rolled down the gutter, are fair balls, and any pin

or pins which they may get must be counted and placed to the credit of

the bowler; dead wood is removed from the alley, and any pins knocked

down through dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the

credit of the bowler. The maximum number which can be bowled is 90.

COCKED HAT AND FEATHER.

[Illustration:

O O

O

O

]

The pins are spotted as above, the centre pin being the feather.

Ten innings constitute a game, and three balls (not exceeding 6 inches

in size) must be used in each inning.

All the pins except the feather have to be bowled down or the inning

goes for naught.

If the feather is left standing alone, the innings count one.

There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked

down through dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the

credit of the bowler.

The maximum is 10.

THE BATTLE GAME.

THE PINS ARE SET UP THE SAME AS FOR THE GAME OF TEN PINS.

Four or six innings constitute a battle or game, except in the case of

a tie, when another inning is played. In case that inning should result

in a tie also, still another inning is played--in fact, until the

scores are unequal. In any inning where a tie occurs the score stands

over until the next inning, when each point is counted double. If the

two innings result in a tie, the score is tripled. Should the total

score result in a tie, sufficient innings are played to make the grand

score unequal.

The team having the largest score in the previous inning must bowl the

first ball, so that the weaker party will have the last ball.

Three balls of regulation size (27 inches in circumference) or under

are allotted to each player in each inning.

Each pin bowled down counts 1, including the king pin.

If all the pins except the king pin are bowled down, it counts 12.

The pins are set up as soon as the nine pins are knocked down, or the

king pin is the only one left standing.

The alleys are changed alternately.

The dead wood is removed after each ball is rolled.

In case of uneven teams the Dummy or Blind is filled by any substitute

the captain may pick out to bowl. He can select any one of his men he

chooses, without regard to rotation, or he himself can bowl, but no man

can take the place of the blind twice until every member of the team

has acted as the substitute.

Poodles count as balls rolled. Any pin or pins knocked down by such

balls are set up again in their former positions.

A rebounding ball does not count, and any pin or pins knocked down by

it are set up, as in the case of a poodle ball.

When a ball has left the hand and touched the alley, it goes as a

rolled ball.

NINE UP AND NINE DOWN.

THE PINS ARE SET UP THE SAME AS FOR THE GAME OF AMERICAN TEN PINS.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are bowled in each inning.

The player must knock down a single pin, which counts 1; then with two

remaining balls he endeavors to leave one pin standing, which counts 1.

Failure to do either, the inning goes for nothing.

No penalties are attached. Dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked

down through the dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to

the credit of the player.

Ten innings constitute a game.

The maximum is 20.

HEAD PIN AND FOUR BACK.

[Illustration:

O O O O

. . .

. .

O

]

The pins are set up as above.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are allowed in each

inning.

If the four back pins are bowled down and the head pin is left

standing, the score is 2. If all the pins are bowled down, the score is

1.

There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked

down through the dead wood remaining on the alleys cannot be placed to

the credit of the player.

Ten innings constitute a game.

The maximum is 20.

FOUR BACK.

[Illustration:

4 3 2 1

O O O O

]

The pins are spotted as above.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are allotted to each

inning.

Each pin counts as spotted, and only one pin can be made at a time; if

more than one pin is made with one ball, it is termed a break, and the

player loses that inning and scores nothing.

There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked

down through the dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to

the credit of the players.

TEN PINS--HEAD PIN OUT.

ALSO KNOWN AS AMERICAN NINE PINS.

[Illustration:

O O O O

O O O

O O

]

The pins are set as in the diagram.

Ten innings constitute a game.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are bowled.

One pin of the frame must be left standing, or the inning goes for

nothing.

There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked

down through the dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to

the credit of the player.

The maximum is 10.

FIVE BACK.

[Illustration:

O O O O

. . O

. .

.

]

The pins are set as shown in the diagram.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are bowled in each inning.

Should a left-handed bowler be bowling, the second quarter pin can be

set up on the left quarter spot.

Strikes and spares count five each.

No penalties are attached. Dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked

down through dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the

credit of the player.

Ten innings constitute a game.

The maximum is 150.

THE NEWPORT GAME.

THE PINS ARE SET UP THE SAME AS FOR THE GAME OF AMERICAN TEN PINS.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are allowed in each inning.

Ten frames constitute a game. The object of the game is to bowl down

an exact number of pins from 1 to 10, but not necessarily in routine

order. The player who, in ten innings, scores the least number of

winning innings is the loser. For instance: A bowls down 2, 5, 7, 8 and

10; B bowls down 1, 6, 8 and 9. Here B loses, as A has one more inning

to his credit than B.

Note.--As the larger number of pins are easy to obtain, the superior

skill lies in picking out the small numbers. For this reason the pony

ball is used, and the small numbers are the points of attack from

the start. When the player has bowled down a certain number of pins

corresponding with any score he has made, and his remaining ball

or balls will be of no avail, an (X) is placed under that number,

indicating that the inning goes for naught, as he has already made that

score.

Only one score is allowed to each inning. Players alternate in the use

of alleys.

Balls bounding from the cushions go for naught.

DUCK PIN GAME.

THE PINS ARE SPOTTED THE SAME AS THE AMERICAN GAME OF TEN PINS.

A regulation Duck Pin shall be 9 inches high, 1½ inches in diameter at

the top, 3½ inches in diameter at the body of the pin, and 1⅜ inches

in diameter at the base; shall taper gradually from the bottom to the

largest part of the body, and shall be as near uniform in weight as

possible.

Foster's Complete Hoyle: An Encyclopedia of Games Including all indoor games played to-day. With suggestions for good play, illustrative hands, and all official laws to date · 第 67 / 70 段