_=Method of Playing.=_ Beginning on the dealer’s left, each player in

turn plays a card from his hand, placing it face upward on the table.

Only one card can be played at a time, and each person must play in his

proper turn until all four of his cards are exhausted. After receiving

fresh cards, the eldest hand again plays first, and so on for every

round. Under certain conditions, each player in his proper turn may

take up certain cards from the table, together with the one played from

his hand, turning them face downward in front of him. He is entitled

to count all the points contained in the cards taken in or won in this

manner. These conditions are: that he can match or _=pair=_ a card or

cards on the table; that he can _=combine=_ two or more cards on the

table so as to make their total pip value equal to that of the card

he plays; or that he can _=build=_ a card in his hand upon one on the

table, so as to make their total pip value agree with that of a second

card, still in his hand.

_=Pairing.=_ If the person whose turn it is to play, holds in his hand

any card of a similar denomination to any of those on the table, he may

play the card from his hand, face upward, and then gather it in again,

together with all similar cards, turning them face downward in front of

him. For instance: He holds an Eight, and there are one or two Eights

on the table. He plays the Eight from his hand, and then gathers in all

of them.

_=Combining.=_ If a player holds any card, not a K Q or J, the pip

value of which is equal to that of two or more cards on the table, he

may play the card from his hand, and then gather it in again, together

with the two or three cards that collectively equal it in pip value.

For instance: He holds a 9, and a 4, 3 and 2 are upon the table. He may

combine these three cards, calling attention to the fact that their

collective value is 9, and then play the 9 from his own hand, gathering

in and turning down all four cards. An 8 and Ace, or 6 and 3 might be

gathered in the same way; or two such combinations might be gathered at

the same time, 3, 2, 6, 7, for instance, which would make two nines;

all of which might be gathered by a player holding a 9 his hand.

Pairs and combinations may be taken in together. For instance: Among

the cards on the table are a 4, 6, and 10, and the player holds a 10.

He can gather in not only the pair of Tens, but the combinations which

equal a 10.

_=Building.=_ A player may have in his hand two cards, the lower of

which, if added to a card on the table, would build up its value to

that of the higher card still in the player’s hand. For instance: A

player holds a 9 and 2, and there is a 7 on the table. He may place the

2 on the 7, announcing the total value; “Nine,” which will notify other

players that those two cards cannot be separated; but he cannot take

them in until it again comes round to his turn to play, because he is

allowed to play only one card at a time, and he has played his card in

making the build.

Should any other player following him hold a 9, he would be entitled to

take in this build, but he could not separate the two cards forming it.

A player holding either a 7 or a 2 could not touch either of the cards

in the build, because they are no longer a 7 and 2, but a 9, for all

practical purposes.

_=Increasing Builds.=_ If any player held an Ace and a 10 in his hand,

he could increase the 9 build to a 10 build, by putting his Ace on the

7 and 2, and announcing the total value, “Ten.” Any following player

would then be unable to win the build with anything but a 10, and the

player who originally built it a 9 would lose it unless he also held a

10 in his hand. Should the build remain a 9 until it came round again

to the player who originally built it, he could then take it in with

his 9, or he might himself increase it to 10, if he had an Ace and a 10

in his hand; but in order to do this the player must have in his hand

the cards to win both the original and the increased builds. A player

holding in his hand a 10, 3 and 2, but no 8, could not build a 5 on the

table to an 8, and afterward advance it to 10. He must have the 2 3 8

and 10 all in his own hand to do this.

Some players imagine that a player cannot increase his own build

in this manner, even if he has both the cards for the first and

last build; but there is no reason why a player should be denied a

privilege which is freely granted to his adversary. If any player can

legitimately make or increase a build, all may do so, provided they

have the proper cards.

_=Double Builds.=_ When two cards of the same denomination, or two

builds of the same value are put together as one, they cannot be

increased. For instance: A player holds 7 and 3, and there are upon

the table a 5 2 and 4. He places his 3 on the 4, and gathers the 5

and 2 together, announcing the build as “Two Sevens.” This cannot be

increased to 8, 9, or 10 under any circumstances, and nothing but a 7

will win it.

Pairs may be doubled in the same manner. If a player has two Nines in

his hand, and there is one on the table, he may build on the latter

with one of his own, announcing, “Two Nines,” which will prevent any

player from building either of them to 10, and will entitle the builder

to take in both cards with his third Nine when it comes round to his

turn. Should any other player at the table hold the fourth Nine, he

could of course take in the build.

It is necessary to distinguish between building and combining. In

combining cards, those already on the table are gathered together;

in building, or increasing a build, a card must be played from the

hand. If one player has made a build of any description, it cannot

be interfered with or increased except by other cards from a player’s

hand, those from the table not being available. For instance: One

player has built a 5 by combining two Aces on the table with a 3 from

his hand. On the table are also a 2 and 4 and a following player holds

a 9 and 7. He cannot use the deuce on the table to increase the build

from 5 to 7, nor the 4 to increase it to 9; because that would not be

building from his hand; but if he held the 4 and 9 in his hand, he

could build on the 5.

The simple rule to be remembered is that no combination of cards

once announced, and left on the table, can be changed, except by the

addition of a card from the hand of some player.

_=Taking In.=_ Any player who has made a build is obliged either to win

it, when it is next his turn to play, or to win something else, or to

make another build. For instance: He has built a 5 into a 9 with a 4,

and holds another 4; if another 5 appears on the table before it comes

to his turn to play, he may build that into a 9 also, with his other

4, announcing, “Two Nines.” Or if some player should lay out a 4 he

could pair it and take it in, leaving his 9 build until the next round.

In the same way a player may increase or win another player’s build

instead of taking in his own. An opponent’s build may be increased by

cards from the hand only.

In the four-handed game, partners may take in one another’s builds, or

may make builds which can be won by the card declared in the partner’s

hand. For instance; One player builds an 8, and his partner holds

Little Cassino. If there is a 6 on the table, the Cassino can be built

on it, and “two Eights,” called, although the player has no 8 in his

own hand; the 8 already built by his partner is sufficient. If a player

has built a 9 which has been taken in by an adversary, he still holding

the 9 he built for, his partner may build for the declared 9 in the

same way.

_=Sweeping.=_ If at any time a player is able to win everything on the

table with one card, it is a sweep, and counts a point. For instance:

He holds an 8, and there are upon the table four cards only:--5 3 6

and 2. By combining the 6 and 2, and the 5 and 3, two Eights will be

formed, and the sweep is made. Sweeps are usually marked by leaving the

cards with which they are made face upward at the bottom of the tricks

taken in by the player. Sweeps made by opposite sides are sometimes

turned down to cancel one another.

_=Trailing.=_ When a player cannot pair, combine, or build anything,

he must play a card. This is called trailing, because he is simply

following along waiting for opportunities. In trailing it is usually

the best policy to play the smaller cards, except Aces and Little

Cassino, because as other players will probably trail small cards

also, these may be combined and won with the larger cards kept in the

player’s hand.

_=Last Cards.=_ In the last round, all the cards remaining on the table

are won by the player who takes the last trick, but it does not count

as a sweep unless it would have been a sweep under any circumstances.

The last trick is usually made by the dealer, who always keeps back a

court card if he has one, to pair one already on the table.

_=Irregularities in Play.=_ If any person plays out of his proper turn,

the card so played is laid aside as exposed, until it comes to his

turn, when it is simply placed on the table with the others. The player

in error is not allowed to build or combine it, nor to win anything

with it.

If a player gathers in a card which does not belong to the combination

or build, he must not only return the card improperly taken up, but

all others taken in with it, together with his own card, the latter,

however, being laid out separately from the others. If the combination

was his own build, it must be broken up; if an adversary’s, it must be

restored, and left as it was.

If a player takes in a build with a wrong card, or takes in a wrong

combination, or gathers cards to which he is not entitled, the error

must be challenged and proved before the next trick is taken in by

another player, because only the last trick gathered can be seen.

If a player makes a build without the proper card in his hand to win

it, on discovery of the error, the combination must be broken up, and

the adversaries may take back the cards they have played in following

the erroneous build, and may amend their play. If, however, another

player has won the erroneous build, there is no penalty, nor any remedy.

_=Showing.=_ After the last card has been played, each player counts

his cards face downward, and announces the number. The player having

the majority scores the three points for cards. If it is a tie, neither

scores. The cards are then turned face up, and the spades counted and

claimed; and then all the points for Cassinos and Aces. It should be

remembered that the total number of points to be made in each hand,

exclusive of sweeps, is eleven, and the total of the claims made must

agree with that number.

_=Scoring.=_ There are several methods of scoring. The old way was to

play 11 points up, deducting the lower score from the higher at the end

of each deal. If one side reached 11 before the adversary reached 6,

it was a lurch, and counted as a double game. The common method is to

count every hand a game, and settle for it in counters.

TWENTY-ONE POINT CASSINO.

This game is usually marked with counters, or pegged on a cribbage

board. Nothing is scored until the end of the hand, when each side

reckons and claims its points. In order to avoid disputes there should

be a previous understanding as to what points go out first in a close

game. In the absence of any agreement to the contrary, the points count

out in the following order:--Cards first, then Spades, Big Cassino,

Little Cassino, Aces, and Sweeps. If the Aces have to decide it, the

spade Ace goes out first, then clubs, hearts, and diamonds. If the

sweeps have to decide it, only the difference in the number of sweeps

counts, and if there is none, or not enough, the game is not ended, and

another deal must be played.

It is better to agree to _=count out=_ in twenty-one point Cassino;

each player keeping mental count of the number of cards and spades he

has taken in, together with any “natural” points. The moment he reaches

21 he should claim the game, and if his claim is correct he wins, even

if his adversary has 21 or more. If he is mistaken, and cannot show

out, he loses the game, no matter what his adversary’s score may be.

If neither claims out, and both are found to be, neither wins, and the

game must be continued to 32 points, and so on, eleven points more each

time until one player claims to have won the game.

_=Suggestions for Good Play.=_ The principal thing in Cassino is to

remember what has been played especially in the counting and high

cards, such as Aces, Eights, Nines, and Tens. In making pairs and

combinations, give preference to those containing spades, and if you

have to trail, do not play a spade if you can help it. If three Aces

have been taken in, play the fourth, if you hold it, at the first

opportunity, because it cannot be paired; but if there is another Ace

to come, keep yours until you can make a good build with it. As between

cards which were on the table and those trailed by an adversary, take

in those trailed if you have a choice. Take in the adversary’s build

in preference to your own, if you can, and build on his build at every

opportunity. If Big Cassino is still to come, avoid trailing cards that

will make a Ten with those on the table. Go for “cards” in preference

to everything else, and always make combinations that take in as many

cards as possible. If you have a Nine, and the cards on the table are

2 2 5 7, take in the 2 2 5, in preference to the 2 7. It is considered

bad policy to take in three court cards, as it stops all sweeps when

the fourth appears.

ROYAL CASSINO.

The only difference in this form of the game is that the three court

cards, K Q J, have a pip value, and may be used in combining and

building, whereas in the ordinary game they can be used only in pairs.

The Jack is worth 11, the Queen 12, and the King 13; so that a 9 and 2

can be taken in with a Jack, or a 6 4 and 3 with a King. In the same

manner a Queen will win a Jack and Ace, or a King will win a Jack and

deuce. The aces are sometimes valued at 14 each.

SPADE CASSINO.

In this interesting variation every spade counts one point toward game.

The spade Jack counts one in addition to its being a spade, and the

extra point so made takes the place of the count for “spades” in the

ordinary game, so that 24 points are made in every hand, exclusive of

sweeps: Cards 3; Big Cassino 2; Little Cassino 1; the four Aces 4; the

spade Jack 1, and 13 spades. It must be remembered that the spade Jack

and deuce count 2 points each, the extra point being for the spade.

The game is scored on a cribbage board, every point being pegged

immediately; that is, every spade, every Ace, the Cassinos and the

sweeps. There is nothing to count at the end of the hand but the cards.

Sixty-one points is game, once round the board and into the game hole.

DRAW CASSINO.

In this variation, no more cards are dealt after the first round, but

each player keeps his hand filled to four cards by drawing one from

the top of the stock as soon as he plays one from his hand. The stock

is left on the table, face down, slightly spread, for convenience in

slipping off the top card as it is drawn.

CONQUIAN.

The etymology of this word is Spanish; _con quién_, “with whom,” but of

the game it stands for, little or nothing is known except that it is

a great favorite in Mexico, and in all the American States bordering

upon it, especially Texas. It is an excellent game for two players,

quite different from any other in its principles, and requiring very

close attention and a good memory to play it well. In its finer points,

especially in the judgment of what the adversary holds or is playing

for, it ranks with our best games, and will probably grow in popularity

as it becomes better known.

_=Cards.=_ Conquian is played with the Spanish pack, forty cards, the

8 9 10 of each suit being deleted. In America, it is much more common

to play with a pack of forty cards from which the three court cards, K

Q J, have been discarded, leaving each suit an unbroken sequence from

the Ace to the Ten. Some persons play with the full pack, but it spoils

the game; as it is then possible to win on a sequence of a single suit.

There are no trumps, and the cards have no value as to rank, a sequence

of 6 7 J being no better than one of 2 3 4. The Ace is not in sequence

with the King.

_=Counters.=_ Each player should be supplied with at least ten

counters, which may be used in settling at the end of each deal.

_=Players.=_ Conquian is played by two persons, one of whom is known as

the dealer, and the other as the pone. If there are three at the table,

the dealer takes no cards, and has no part in the game for that hand.

_=Cutting.=_ Seats and deal are cut for, the lowest cut having the

choice, and dealing the first hand. The Ace is low, the King high.

_=Stakes.=_ Each deal is a game in itself, and the loser pays one

counter for it. If the game is a tie, called a _=tableau=_, each puts

up a counter for a pool, and the winner of the next game takes the

pool, in addition to the counter paid by his adversary. If the next

game is also a tableau, each player adds another counter to the pool,

and so on until it is won.

_=Dealing.=_ Ten cards are dealt to each player in five rounds of two

at a time, and the twenty remaining in the stock are laid upon the

table face down, between the players, but a little to the left of the

dealer. The stock may be slightly spread, to facilitate the process of

drawing cards from it.

_=Objects of the Game.=_The object of each player is to form triplets,

fours, and sequences, by combining the cards dealt him with others

drawn from the stock. These combinations are laid upon the table, face

up, and the player wins the game who first succeeds in laying down

eleven cards in this manner.

_=Sequences=_ must be all of the same suit, and cannot be shorter than

three cards. The Ace is not in sequence with the King, but the 7 is

next below the Jack. A sequence once started can be added to from time

to time as the cards are drawn from the stock.

_=Triplets=_ are any three cards of the same denomination, and they may

be increased to _=Fours=_ at any time, by adding the other card.

_=Borrowing.=_ A player with four of a kind on the table may borrow

any one of the four to use in a sequence; but he cannot borrow one of

three, because no combination may consist of less than three cards.

In the same manner a player may borrow the card at either end of a

sequence of at least four cards, if he can use it to make a triplet.

He cannot borrow an intermediate card, nor one of a sequence of three

cards only, because three cards must be left to maintain the sequence,

but if he had a sequence of at least five cards on the table, he might

borrow the top of it to make one triplet, and then the next card to

make another triplet.

_=Method of Playing.=_ The cards dealt, each player sorts his hand into

sequences and triplets, and determines what cards he wants to complete

his runs, so that he may be on the lookout for them. The pone then

draws the top card from the stock and turns it face up on the pack. If

this card can be used in combination with any of those in his hand, he

draws it over to his side of the table, and takes from his hand the

cards completing the combination of three cards, leaving them all face

up. Even if he has cards enough in his hand to increase the combination

to four or more cards, he should not show them. The cards drawn from

the stock must never be taken into the hand.

Let us suppose the pone holds these cards:--♡ J 7 6 4; ♠ 5 3 2; ♢ K 7

5; and that the ♡ 5 is the first card he draws. He can use this card

in three ways: By making a run of three with the ♡ 4 and ♡ 6; or a run

with the ♡ 6 and ♡ 7; or a triplet with the two other 5’s. In this

case he would probably lay out the 6 and 7, and make the run of three.

If he should draw the ♡ Q later on, he could use it by continuing the

sequence with his Jack; or if the ♡ 3 appeared, he could use it with

his ♡ 4.

_=Passing.=_ If he cannot use the card drawn, or does not wish to,

he draws it from its position on the top of the stock and places it

between himself and the dealer, still face up. The dealer then decides

whether or not he wants it, and if he does not he “passes” it by

turning it face down, and pushing it to his right. Cards once passed

in this manner cannot again be seen by either player. The player who

passes the card turns up the next one on the stock. If he does not want

it, he places it on the table between himself and his adversary, and if

his adversary does not want it either, he turns it down and passes it

to the pile of deadwood, turning up the top card of the stock again.

In this manner it will be seen that each player has to decide on two

cards in succession; the one drawn but not used by his adversary,

and the one he draws himself. This is continued until the stock is

exhausted, which ends the game.

_=Discarding.=_ If a player uses any card drawn from the stock in this

manner, it is obvious that he has too many cards, and in order to

reduce his hand and show-downs to ten cards, he must discard something,

unless he can show down everything remaining in his hand, in which case

he would have eleven cards down, and win the game. In discarding, the

card thrown out is placed at the disposal of the adversary, as if it

were the card drawn from the stock, and if the adversary does not want

it, he passes it and draws another. It should be observed that the

player drawing the card from the stock always has the first refusal of

it. This is sometimes very important, as both players often need the

same card.

In the foregoing example, the player’s best discard would be his ♢ K,

which is too far removed from the others in the suit to make a run

possible, and there is no mate to it with which to start a triplet.

If the adversary could use this King, he would have to discard in his

turn, and the card so thrown out would be at the disposal of the other

player, just as if it had been drawn from the stock.

_=Forcing.=_ A player need not use any card drawn, but if he has upon

the table any combination in which it can be used, his adversary may

force him with it, even after it has been declined. For instance: A

player has eight cards down, two sequences of four small cards each,

and in his hand a pair of Kings. Another King will make him game; but

if he has to depend on his sequences to put him out, he will have to

get three more cards. Suppose he draws a card that will fit one of his

sequences; it is to his advantage to pass it; but upon laying it on the

table his adversary may take it up and force him with it, by placing

it at the end of his sequence, at the same time saying: “Discard.” In

the same manner a player holding one of the cards of his adversary’s

show-down sequence or triplet may force after using a card, by placing

his discard on his adversary’s sequence, instead of laying it on the

table. If it is laid on the table, the adversary may pass it at once,

by turning it down, and it is then too late to compel him to use

it. Suppose you think your adversary holds two cards of an unplayed

sequence, and has a triplet on the table. If you can use one of those

sequence cards in his hand to advantage, and can force him by giving

him the fourth card of his triplet, which is of no use to you, you

should do so; but you must remember that you cannot force except after

using a card yourself, because you are not allowed to discard under

any other circumstances.

If a player looks at any of the cards that have been passed and turned

down, his adversary may take up and examine the remainder of the stock,

but without disturbing the position of the cards therein, and without

showing them. If a player looks at any of the cards in the stock except

the one he draws, his adversary may look at all of them. If a player

draws out of turn, his adversary simply claims the card.

_=Showing.=_ After the last card is drawn from the stock and passed,

each player shows the remainder of his hand, and as neither can combine

his cards so as to get eleven down, it is a tableau, and each puts a

counter in the pool for the next hand. The deal passes from one player

to the other in rotation as long as they continue to play.

_=Suggestions for Good Play.=_ Observation of the cards passed will

usually show what the adversary is keeping, and what he has no chance

for. Toward the end of the stock each player should know what the other

holds in his hand by the cards which have not appeared in the drawing.

If a player has not a good chance to get eleven down himself, he should

play for a tableau, by using nothing that will compel him to discard

cards which may put his adversary out. It should be remembered that a

player cannot get eleven down in one suit, and careful observation of

the cards passed will often show that his runs are blocked, the cards

necessary to continue them having been turned down.

One peculiar feature of the game is that a player cannot block his

adversary and at the same time win the game, because so long as he

holds up the card that his adversary wants he cannot get eleven down

himself. His only chance is that he may be able to use the card that

his adversary needs. For instance: He holds two 8’s, one of which will

make his adversary eleven down by completing a sequence. If there is

another 8 to come, the player with the pair may use both his 8’s, and

win; but if there is no other 8 to come, it is impossible for the

player with the two 8’s to win without first putting his adversary out.

There are no _=Text Books=_ on Conquian, and this is the first complete

description of it ever published.

CALABRASELLA.

Foster's Complete Hoyle: An Encyclopedia of Games Including all indoor games played to-day. With suggestions for good play, illustrative hands, and all official laws to date · 第 50 / 70 段