Foster’s Bridge Manual, by R.F. Foster, 1900.
Foster on Bridge, by R.F. Foster, 1900.
The Bridge Manual, by John Doe, 1900.
Bridge Abridged, by W. Dalton, 1901.
Elwell on Bridge, by J.B. Elwell, 1902.
Foster’s Bridge Tactics, by R.F. Foster, 1903.
Foster’s Self-playing Bridge Cards, 1903.
The Bridge Book, by A. Dunn, Jr., 1903.
Bridge Up to Date, by C.S. Street, 1903.
Sixty Bridge Hands, by C.S. Street, 1903.
Laws and Principles of Bridge, by “Badsworth,” 1903.
Bridge Whist in Brief, by Fisher Ames, 1904.
Bridge at a Glance, by W. Dalton, 1904.
The Gist of Bridge, by R.F. Foster, 1904.
Bridge Developments, by Robertson and Wallaston, 1904.
Advanced Bridge, by J.B. Elwell, 1904.
Auction Bridge, by John Doe, 1904.
Bridge that Wins, by A. Metcalfe, 1905.
Foster’s Complete Bridge, by R.F. Foster, 1905.
Foster’s Bridge Maxims, by R.F. Foster, 1905.
The Bridge Blue Book, by P.F. Mottelay, 1906.
Good Bridge, by C.S. Street, 1907.
Practical Bridge, by J.B. Elwell, 1908.
Auction Bridge Up to Date, by W. Dalton, 1909.
Principles of Auction Bridge, by “Badsworth,” 1910.
Auction Bridge Up to Date, by R.F. Foster, 1910.
Advanced Auction Bridge, by R.F. Foster, 1911.
Auction Bridge, by “Bascule,” 1911.
New Auction and Dummy Play, by J.B. Gleason, 1912.
Fine Points of Bridge, by Florence Irwin, 1912.
Auction Bridge, by J.B. Elwell, 1912.
Royal Auction Bridge, by R.F. Foster, 1912.
Scientific Auction Bridge, by E.V. Shepard, 1913.
Auction of To-day, by Milton Work, 1913.
Royal Auction and Nullos, by R.F. Foster, 1914.
Auction Developments, by Milton Work, 1914.
Whitehead’s Conventions of Auction Bridge, by Wilbur C. Whitehead, 1914.
WHIST.
_=CARDS.=_ Whist is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards, ranking
A K Q J 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2; the Ace being the highest in play, but
ranking below the deuce in cutting. Two packs are generally used, the
one being shuffled while the other is dealt.
_=MARKERS=_ are necessary to keep the score. The most common are red
and white circular counters; the white being used for the points
in each game, and the red for the games themselves, or for rubber
points. It is better to have two sets, of different colours, each set
consisting of four circular and three oblong counters, the latter being
used for the rubber points, or for games.
_=PLAYERS.=_ Whist is played by four persons. When there are more than
four candidates for play, five or six may form a “table.” If more than
six offer for play, the selection of the table is made by cutting.
The table being formed, the four persons who shall play the first
rubber are determined by cutting, and they again cut for partners, and
the choice of seats and cards.
_=CUTTING.=_ The methods of cutting are the same as those described in
connection with Bridge, and ties are decided in the same manner.
_=PLAYERS’ POSITIONS.=_ The four players at a whist table are usually
distinguished by the letters A, B, Y, Z; the first two letters of the
alphabet being partners against the last two, and their positions at
the table being indicated as follows:--
[Illustration:
Y
+-----+
| |
A | | B
| |
+-----+
Z
]
Z is always the dealer; A the original leader, or first hand; Y the
second hand; B the third hand; and Z the fourth hand. After the first
trick, some other player may become the leader; the one on his left
being the second hand; his partner the third hand, and the player on
his right the fourth hand. B is the pone.
_=DEALING.=_ The cards having been properly shuffled, the dealer
presents them to the _=pone=_ to be cut. The American laws require that
after separating the pack, the pone shall place the cut part, which
he lifts off, nearer the dealer. Beginning at his left, the dealer
distributes the cards one at a time in rotation, until the pack is
exhausted. The last card is turned face up on the table, and the suit
to which it belongs is the trump for that hand.
When two packs are used, one is shuffled by the dealer’s partner while
the other is dealt, and the shuffled pack is placed on the left of the
player whose turn it will be to deal next. Each player deals in turn
until the conclusion of the game or rubber.
_=IRREGULARITIES IN THE DEAL.=_ The following rules regarding the deal
should be strictly observed:--
If any card is found faced in the pack, the dealer must deal again.
Should the dealer turn over any card but the trump, while dealing, the
adversaries may, if they please, demand a new deal. A player dealing
out of turn may be stopped before the trump card is turned; but after
that, the deal must stand, afterwards passing to the left in regular
order. On the completion of the deal, each player should take up and
count his cards to see that he has thirteen; if not, it is a misdeal,
and unless the pack is found to be imperfect, the deal passes to the
player on the misdealer’s left. The dealer loses the deal:--if he
neglects to have the pack cut; if he deals a card incorrectly, and
fails to remedy the error before dealing another; if he counts the
cards on the table, or those remaining in the pack; if he looks at the
trump card before the deal is complete; or if he places the trump card
face down, on his own or on any other player’s cards.
_=STAKES.=_ When stakes are played for, it should be distinctly
understood at the beginning whether the unit is for a game, for
a rubber, for rubber points, or for tricks. The English game is
invariably played for so much a rubber point; sometimes with an extra
stake upon the rubber itself. In America, it is usual to play for so
much a game; but in some cases the tricks are the unit, deducting
the loser’s score from seven, or playing the last hand out and then
deducting the loser’s score. A very popular method is to play for a
triple stake: so much a trick, playing each hand out; so much a game;
and so much a rubber. These three stakes are usually in the proportion
of 10, 25, and 50. In clubs it is customary to have a uniform stake
for whist, and to fix a limit for all betting on the game beyond the
“club stake.” Good usage demands that those at the table should have
the refusal of any bet made by a player, before it is offered to an
outsider.
_=METHOD OF PLAYING.=_ The player on the dealer’s left begins by
leading any card he chooses, and the others must all follow suit if
they can. Failure to follow suit when able is called _=revoking=_; the
penalty for which, under the American laws, is the loss of two tricks;
under the English laws, three tricks or points. Any player having none
of the suit led may either trump it or throw away a card of another
suit, which is called _=discarding=_. When it is the dealer’s turn to
play to the first trick, he should take the trump card into his hand.
After it has been taken up it must not be named, and any player naming
it is subject to a penalty, (see Laws;) but a player may ask what the
trump _=suit=_ is. If all follow suit, the highest card played wins
the trick; trumps win against all other suits, and a higher trump wins
a lower. The winner of the trick may lead any card he pleases for the
next trick, and so on until all thirteen tricks have been played.
_=Cards Played in Error=_, or dropped face upward on the table, or
two or more played at once, are called _=exposed cards=_, and must be
left on the table. They can be _=called=_ by the adversaries; but the
fact of their being exposed does not prevent their being played when
the opportunity offers. Some persons imagine that the adversaries can
prevent an exposed card from being played; but such is not the case.
_=Leading out of Turn.=_ Should a player lead out of turn, the
adversaries may call a suit from the player in error, or from his
partner, when it is next the turn of either of them to lead. American
laws require the call to be made by the player on the right of the one
from whom the suit is called. The English laws give the adversaries
the option of calling the card played in error an exposed card. If
all have played to the trick before discovering the error, it cannot
be rectified; but if all have not played, those who have followed the
false lead must take back their cards, which are not, however, liable
to be called.
_=Revoking Players=_ cannot win the game that hand, no matter what they
score; but they may play the hand out, and score all points they make
to within one point of game.
Any player may ask the others to _=draw cards=_ in any trick, provided
he does so before they are touched for the purpose of gathering them.
In answer to this demand, each player should indicate which of the
cards on the table he played.
In the English game, any player may look at the last trick turned and
quitted; in the American he may not.
_=Taking Tricks.=_ As the tricks are taken, they should be neatly laid
one upon the other in such a manner that any player at the table can
count them at a glance. There are several methods of stacking tricks;
the first shown being probably the best.
[Illustration]
When six have been taken by one side they are usually gathered together
to form a _=book=_; any subsequently taken being laid apart, as they
are the only ones that count. It is customary for the partner of the
player winning the first trick on each side to gather the tricks for
that deal. In some places it is the custom for the partner of the
winner of each trick to gather it, so that at the end of the hand each
player has tricks in front of him. Although this method saves time,
the practice is not to be recommended, as it hinders the players in
counting the tricks already gained by each side.
Immediately upon the completion of the play of a hand, the score should
be claimed and marked. Any discussion of the play should be postponed
until this has been attended to. The adversaries must detect and claim
revokes before the cards are cut for the following deal.
The laws of whist should be carefully studied.
_=OBJECT OF THE GAME.=_ The object of all whist play is to take tricks,
of which there are thirteen in each hand or deal. The first six tricks
taken by one side are called a _=book=_, and do not count; but each
trick above that number counts one point towards game. The seventh
trick is called the _=odd=_; and two or more over the book are called
_=two=_, _=three=_, etc., _=by cards=_. At the conclusion of each hand,
the side that has won any tricks in excess of the book, scores them;
the opponents counting nothing. As soon as either side has scored the
number of points previously agreed upon as a game, which must be 5,
7, or 10, the cards are again shuffled and spread for the choice of
partners, etc., unless it has been agreed to play a rubber.
_=SCORING.=_ There are several methods of scoring at whist. The English
game is 5 points, rubbers being always played. Besides the points
scored for tricks, honours are counted; the games have a different
value, according to the score of the adversaries; and the side winning
the rubber adds two points to its score.
In scoring, the revoke penalty counts first, tricks next, and honours
last.
_=The Revoke.=_ Should the adversaries detect and claim a revoke before
the cards are cut for the following deal, they have the option of three
penalties: 1st. To take three tricks from the revoking player, adding
them to their own. 2nd. To deduct three points from his game score.
3rd. To add three points to their own game score. The penalty cannot be
divided. A revoke may be corrected by the player making it before the
trick in which it occurs has been turned and quitted. The card played
in error must be left face up on the table, and must be played when
demanded by the adversaries, unless it can be got rid of previously, in
the course of play. In America, the revoke penalty is two tricks.
_=The Honours=_ are the four highest trumps, A, K, Q, and J; and
_=after tricks have been scored=_, partners who held three honours
between them are entitled to count two points towards game; four
honours counting four points. If each side has two honours, neither can
count them. It is not enough to score them; after the last card has
been played, they must be claimed by word of mouth. If they are not
claimed before the trump is turned for the following deal, they cannot
be scored. Partners who, at the beginning of a deal, are at the score
of four, cannot count honours; they must get the odd trick to win the
game. Should one side be out by tricks, and the other by honours, the
tricks win the game, the honours counting nothing.
_=Rubber Points.=_ At the conclusion of each game, the rubber points
are scored, either with the oblong counters, or on the small keys of
the whist-marker. If the winners of a game are five points to their
adversaries’ nothing, they win a _=treble=_, and count three rubber
points. If the adversaries have scored, but have one or two points
only, the winners mark two points, for a _=double=_. If the adversaries
have reached three or four, the winners mark one, for a _=single=_. The
rubber points having been marked, all other scores are turned down. The
side winning the rubber adds two points to its score for so doing. The
value of the rubber is determined by deducting from the score of the
winners any rubber points that may have been made by their adversaries.
The smallest rubber possible to win is one point; the winners having
scored two singles and the rubber, equal to four; from which they
have to deduct a triple made by their adversaries. The largest rubber
possible is eight points, called a _=bumper=_, the winners having
scored two triples and the rubber, to their adversaries’ nothing.
It is sometimes important to observe the order of precedence in
scoring. For instance: if, at the beginning of a hand, A-B have three
points to Y-Z’s nothing, and A-B make two by honours, Y-Z winning three
by cards, Y-Z mark first; so that A-B win only a _=single=_, instead
of a _=treble=_. On the contrary, should A-B make two by cards, Y-Z
claiming four by honours, A-B win a treble; as their tricks put them
out before it is Y-Z’s turn to count.
In America, where rubbers are played without counting honours, it is
not usual to reckon rubber points; but simply to add some agreed value
to the score of those winning the odd game.
Where single games are played, whether 5, 7, or 10 points, some persons
consider the game as finished when the agreed number of points is
reached. Others play the last hand out, and count all the tricks made;
so that if two partners were at the score of 6 in a 7-point game, and
made five by cards, they would win a game of 11 points. When this is
done, it is usual to deduct the score of the losers from the total,
and to call the remainder the value of the game. In the American Whist
League, the rule is to stop at seven points, and to determine the value
of the game by deducting the loser’s score from seven.
When long sittings occur without change of partners or adversaries,
it is a common practice to count the tricks continuously, and on the
conclusion of the play, to deduct the lower score from the higher, the
winners being credited with the difference.
_=CUTTING OUT.=_ If rubbers are played, there is no change of partners,
or of rotation in the deal, until one side has won two games, which
ends the rubber. If the first two games are won by the same partners,
the third is not played. If more than four players belong to the table,
those who have just played cut to decide which shall give place to
those waiting; those cutting the highest cards going out. If six belong
to the table, there will be no further cutting out; as those who are
out for one rubber re-enter for the next, taking the places of those
who have played two consecutive rubbers. If five belong to the table,
the three who remained in for the second rubber must cut to allow the
fifth player to re-enter. At the end of the third rubber, the two cut
that have not yet been out; and at the end of the fourth rubber, the
one who has played every rubber goes out without cutting. After this,
it is usual to spread the cards, and to form the table anew. In all the
foregoing instances, partners and deal must be cut for, after the cut
has decided which are to play.
_=MARKING.=_ There are various methods of using the counters. At
the beginning of the game they may be placed at the left hand, and
transferred to the right as the points accrue. Another method is to
stack the four circular counters one upon the other at the beginning
of the game, and to count a point by placing one of them beside the
others; two points by placing another upon the first; three points by
placing a third beyond these two, and four points by placing them all
in line.
[Illustration: Nothing. One. Two. Three. Four.]
In the seven point game, the score is continued by placing one counter
above, and to the right or left of the other three, to indicate five
points; and above and between them to indicate six.
[Illustration: Five. Or this. Six.]
When counters are not used, one of the standard forms of whist-marker
is employed, the most legible and convenient being the “Foster Whist
Marker,” in which the counting keys are always level with the surface
and can be seen equally well from any position at the table.
[Illustration: The Foster Whist Marker.]
The four large keys on one side are used to count single points, the
single large key on the opposite side being reckoned as five. The three
small keys are used for counting rubber points, or games.
In ten point games, the scoring to four points is the same; but beyond
four, a single counter placed _=below=_ two or more others, is reckoned
as three; and _=above=_ two or more others, as five.
[Illustration: Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Nine.]
When proper markers are not obtainable, many persons cut eight slits in
a visiting card, and turn up the points.
[Illustration: Visiting-Card Marker.]
Whatever the apparatus employed, it should be such that every player
at the table can distinctly see the state of the score without drawing
attention to it.
_=METHODS OF CHEATING.=_ Whist offers very few opportunities to the
card-sharper. When honours are counted, he may be able to keep one on
the bottom of the pack until the completion of the deal by _=making
the pass=_ after the cards have been cut. A _=greek=_ who possessed
sufficient skill to do this without detection would be very foolish to
waste his talents at the whist table; for, however large the stakes,
the percentage in his favour would be very small.
When whist is played with only one pack, a very skillful shuffler may
gather the cards without disturbing the tricks, and, by giving them a
single _=intricate=_ shuffle, then drawing the middle of the pack from
between the ends and giving another single intricate shuffle, he may
occasionally succeed in dealing himself and his partner a very strong
hand in trumps, no matter how the cards are cut, so that they are not
shuffled again. A hand dealt in this manner is framed on the walls of
the Columbus, Ohio, Whist Club; eleven trumps having been dealt to
the partner, and the twelfth turned up. In this case the shuffling
dexterity was the result of fifteen years’ practice, and was employed
simply for amusement, the dealer never betting on any game, and making
no concealment of his methods.
_=SUGGESTIONS FOR GOOD PLAY.=_ Although whist is a game of very simple
construction, the immense variety of combinations which it affords
renders it very complicated in actual practice; there being probably
no game in which there is so much diversity of opinion as to the best
play, even with the same cards, and under similar conditions. It has
been repeatedly remarked that in all the published hands at whist which
have been played in duplicate, or even four times over, with the same
cards, no two have been alike.
It would be useless to formulate rules intended to cover every case
that might arise, because the conditions are frequently too complicated
to allow the average human intellect to select the exact rule which
would apply. All that can be done to assist the beginner is to state
certain general principles which are well recognised as fundamental,
and to leave the rest to experience and practice at the whist table.
_=GENERAL PRINCIPLES.=_ Nothing obstructs the progress of the beginner
so much as his attempts to cover all the ground at once. The more
ambitious he is, the greater his necessity for keeping in view the
maxim; “One thing at a time: all things in succession.” One must master
the scales before he can produce the perfect melody.
The novice should first thoroughly understand the object, and the
fundamental principle of the game.
_=The Object=_ is to win tricks. Not to give information, or to count
the hands, or to remember every card played; but simply and only to win
tricks.
_=The Principle=_ is to secure for certain cards a trick-taking value
which does not naturally belong to them; either by getting higher cards
out of the way of lower, or by placing the holder of intermediate cards
at a disadvantage with regard to the lead.
If any person will take the trouble to deal out four hands, and after
turning them face up on the table, count how many tricks each side
will probably take with its high cards and trumps, he will find that
the total will hardly ever be exactly thirteen tricks. Let us suppose
the following to be one of the hands so dealt; Z turning up the ♡6 for
trumps:--
[Illustration:
♡Q J 8
♣6
♢K J 6 5 3
♠A 9 8 6
♡4 3 2 +-------+ ♡A K 10 5
♣A K Q 8 7 4 3 | Y | ♣J 9
♢7 |A B| ♢A 8 4
♠Q 7 | Z | ♠K 5 4 2
+-------+
♡9 7 6
♣10 5 2
♢Q 10 9 2
♠J 10 3
]
On looking over this hand it would appear that A could only make one
trick in Clubs, of which the second round would be trumped. His
partner can count on five tricks: the two best and the fourth trumps;
the ♢A, and the ♠K; a total of six tricks. On counting the adversaries’
probable tricks, Y should make one of his three trumps, and the ♠A.
Diamonds will not go round twice without being trumped, so we cannot
count on his ♢K. We cannot see any sure tricks for Z. Where are the
five other tricks necessary to bring our total up to thirteen? They
must be there, for there are thirteen tricks taken in every hand played.
If we play over the hand, we shall find that A-B may make six, seven,
nine, or ten tricks, according to their good management, and the good
or bad play of their adversaries. In _=Foster’s Whist Tactics=_,
Illustrative Hand No. 13, may be found the various ideas of sixteen of
the best players in the American Whist League with regard to the proper
management of this hand. They played it in four different ways, and
with very different results in the score.
This must show that the accidental distribution of the Aces, Kings,
and trumps is not everything in whist, and that there must be ways and
means of securing tricks which do not appear on the surface.
There are four ways of taking tricks at whist:
1st. By playing high cards, the suit of which the others must follow.
This A does, in the example, on the first round of the Club suit.
2nd. By playing low cards, after the higher ones have been exhausted,
and the adverse trumps are out of the way. This Y will do with his
Diamonds, or A with his Clubs, according to circumstances.
3rd. By trumping winning cards played by the adversaries. This Y will
do if Clubs are led a second time, or A will do if Diamonds are led
twice.
4th. By being able to take tricks with cards which are not the best
of the suit, the player who holds better cards having already played
smaller. This B will do with the ♡10 if A leads trumps, and Y does not
play either Q or J. If B leads trumps he will lose this advantage.
These four methods of winning tricks suggest four systems of play,
which are those in common use by experts at the present day:
1st. Playing high cards to the best advantage, so as to secure the best
results from such combinations as may be held. This is the basis of all
_=systems of leading=_.
2nd. Leading from the longest suit, in order that higher cards may
be forced out of the way of smaller ones, leaving the smaller ones
“established,” or good for tricks after the adverse trumps are
exhausted. This is called the _=long-suit game=_.
3rd. Trumping good cards played by the adversaries. This is called
_=ruffing=_. When two partners each trump a different suit, it is
called a _=cross-ruff=_, or _=saw=_.