_=IRREGULARITIES IN DECLARING.=_ If any player declares out of turn,

either in bidding a suit or in doubling, either opponent may demand

a new deal, or may allow the declaration so made to stand, in which

case the next player to the left must bid, just as if the declaration

had been in turn. If a player pass out of turn there is no penalty,

and the player whose turn it was must declare himself. The player who

has passed out of his proper turn may re-enter the bidding if the

declaration he passed has been over-called or doubled.

If a player makes an insufficient or impossible declaration, either

adversary may call attention to it. Suppose the last bid is three

royals, and the next player says four clubs. This is not enough, as

three royals is worth 27 and four clubs only 24. Unless the player in

error correct himself at once, and make it five clubs, either adversary

may demand that it be five clubs, and the partner of the corrected

player cannot bid unless this five-club bid is over-called or doubled.

A player correcting himself must stick to the suit named, not being

allowed to say four diamonds when he sees that four clubs is not enough.

If an insufficient declaration is passed or over-called by the player

on the left, it is too late to demand any penalty, and the insufficient

bid stands as regular. Suppose A bids three royals and Y says four

clubs, B and Z passing. A can repeat his bid of three royals if he

likes, as that is enough to over-call four clubs.

If a player makes an impossible declaration, such as calling six

diamonds over five no trumps, when it is clearly impossible to make any

diamond declaration worth 50, either adversary may demand a new deal,

or may insist that the last bid made by his own side, five no trumps,

shall be the winning declaration, or he may force the player in error

to declare a grand slam in diamonds and play it, his partner being

forbidden to take him out.

_=METHOD OF PLAYING.=_ The winning declaration settled, whether doubled

or not, the player on the left of the declarer leads for the first

trick, and dummy’s cards go down, the declarer playing the combined

hands. The declarer gathers the tricks for his side, but either

adversary may gather for the other. The first six tricks taken by the

declarer make a book, and all over the book count toward his contract.

The adversaries have a book as soon as they reach the limit of the

tricks they may win without “setting” the contract. If the contract is

four hearts, the declarer must win ten tricks, so that his opponents

have a book when they get home three tricks. All tricks should be laid

so that they may be readily counted by any player at the table.

_=DUMMY.=_ Until a card is led by the proper player, the declarer’s

partner has all the rights of any other player, but as soon as the

player to the left of the declarer leads and dummy’s cards are laid on

the table, dummy’s duties and rights are restricted to the following:

He may call attention to few cards played to a trick; correct an

improper claim of either adversary; call attention to a trick taken by

the wrong side; ask his partner if he have none of a suit to which he

renounces; correct an erroneous score; consult with the declarer as to

which penalty to exact for a revoke; and, if he has not intentionally

overlooked the hand of another player, he may call his partner’s

attention to an established revoke made by the adversaries, or to a

card exposed by them or a lead out of turn made by them.

_=The Revoke.=_ Should a player fail to follow suit when able to do so,

it is a revoke, and the revoke is established when the trick in which

it occurs is turned down and quitted by the side that won it, or when

the revoking player, or his partner, in his right turn or otherwise,

has led or played to the following trick. If a player ask his partner

if he has none of the suit led, before the trick is turned down, the

revoke may be corrected, unless the player in error replies in the

negative, or has led or played to the next trick.

Dummy cannot revoke under any circumstances.

The penalty for the revoke depends on the side in error. If the

declarer revokes he cannot score anything but honours as actually held,

while the adversaries take 100 points penalty in the honour column, in

addition to any they may be entitled to for defeating the declaration.

If an adversary revokes, they score honours only, and the declarer may

either take the 100 points, or he may take three actual tricks and add

them to his own. If he takes the tricks, they may aid him in fulfilling

his contract, as the score is then made up as the tricks lie, but the

declarer will not be entitled to any bonus in case he was doubled.

Suppose Z is the declarer, and is playing three hearts doubled. He wins

the odd trick only, but detects a revoke, for which he takes three

tricks. This gives him four by cards, doubled, worth 64 points toward

game, but he does not get any bonus for making his contract after being

doubled, or for the extra tricks, because they were taken in penalty

and not in play.

_=Exposed Cards.=_ After the deal but before the winning declaration

is settled, if any player exposes a card his partner is barred from

bidding or doubling, and the card is subject to call. Should the

partner of the offending player prove to be the leader to the first

trick, the declarer may prohibit the initial lead of the exposed suit.

All cards exposed by the declarer’s adversaries after the original lead

are liable to be called and must be left on the table, face upward.

Exposed cards are those played two at a time, dropped on the table face

up, or so held that the partner might see them, or cards mentioned as

being in the hand of the player or his partner. The declarer is not

liable to any penalty for exposed cards.

_=Leading Out of Turn.=_ If either adversary leads out of turn, the

declarer may call the card exposed, or call a suit when it is the turn

of either adversary to lead. If the declarer leads out of turn, from

his own hand or dummy’s, there is no penalty, but he may not correct

the error unless directed to do so by an adversary. If the second hand

plays to the false lead, it must stand. If the declarer plays from his

own hand or from dummy to a false lead, the trick stands. In case the

dealer calls a suit and the player has none, the penalty is paid.

_=Cards Played in Error.=_ If any player but dummy omits to play to a

trick, and does not correct the error until he has played to the next

trick, the other side may claim a new deal. If the deal stands, the

surplus card at the end is supposed to belong to the short trick, but

is not a revoke.

_=OBJECT OF THE GAME.=_ The object in auction is for the declarer to

fulfil his contract, and for the adversaries to defeat it. The highest

card played to the trick, if of the suit led, wins the trick, and

trumps win all other suits. At the end of the hand the declarer counts

up the tricks he has won over the book and if he has made good on his

contract he scores the value of those tricks toward game. As soon as

either side reaches 30, it is a game, but the hands are played out, and

all the tricks counted.

_=RUBBERS.=_ Three games, 30 points or more each, make a rubber, but

if the first two are won by the same partners the third game is not

played. The side that first wins two games adds 250 rubber points to

its score.

_=SCORING.=_ Apart from the game score, which is made entirely by

tricks won on successful declarations, there are several additional

scores that have no influence in winning or losing the game, although

they may materially affect the ultimate value of the rubber. These are

all entered under the head of “honour scores,” or “above the line.”

_=Honours=_ are the five highest cards in the trump suit, A K Q J 10;

when there is no trump, they are the four Aces. The partners holding

three, four or five honours between them, or four honours in one hand,

or four in one hand and the fifth in the partner’s, or all five in one

hand, are entitled to claim and score them, according to the following

table. It will be seen that their value varies according to the trump

suit; and it must be remembered that this value cannot be increased by

doubling.

TABLE OF HONOUR VALUES.

Royal spades are indicated by “R.”

-------------------------------+---+---+---+---+---+-------

Declaration | ♠ | ♣ | ♢ | ♡ | R | No

| | | | | | trump

-------------------------------+---+---+---+---+---+-------

Each Trick Above 6 | 2 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10

-------------------------------+---+---+---+---+---+-------

H { 3 Honours | 4 |12 |14 |16 |18 | 30

O { 4 Honours | 8 |24 |28 |32 |36 | 40

N { 4 Honours (All in 1 hand) |16 |48 |56 |64 |72 |100

O { 5 Honours |10 |30 |35 |40 |45 |

U { 5 Honours (4 in 1 hand) |18 |54 |63 |72 |81 |

R { 5 Honours (All in 1 hand) |20 |60 |70 |80 |90 |

S {

Rubber 250, Grand Slam 40, Little Slam 20.

When one side has nothing but the odd honour, three out of the five, it

is called _=simple honours=_. The value of simple honours is always the

same as two tricks.

_=Slams.=_ Little Slam is made by taking twelve of the thirteen tricks;

it counts 20 points. Grand Slam is made by taking the thirteen tricks,

and it counts 40. Either score must be exclusive of revoke penalties.

_=PENALTIES.=_ If the declarer succeeds in making his contract, he

scores below the line for tricks and above the line for honours

according to the table of values already given, and he scores for as

many tricks as he wins, regardless of the smaller number he may have

bid.

But if the declarer fails to make good on his contract he scores

nothing but honours as actually held, while his adversaries score

50 points penalty in the honour column for every trick by which the

declaration falls short, no matter what the declaration was, but they

never score anything toward game, no matter how many tricks they win,

because they are not the declarers. They may, however, score slams.

If we suppose the winning declaration to be three hearts, and the

declarer makes the odd trick only, holding simple honours, he scores 16

above the line, while the other side scores 100 points above the line

for defeating the contract by two tricks, worth 50 each.

If the dealer is left in with one spade, he cannot lose more than 100

points, even if he is doubled, provided neither he nor his partner

redouble. If the adversaries set the contract for one trick, the

declarer loses 50 only, and even if he is set for six tricks, he can

lose only the 100.

If any other declaration is doubled and fails, the adversaries score

100 points, instead of 50, for every trick by which they defeat the

contract. If it is redoubled, they score 200. But if the declarer

succeeds after being doubled, he not only scores double value for the

tricks toward game, but he gets 50 points for fulfilling a doubled

contract and 50 more for any tricks over his contract if he makes them.

These figures are 100 in each case if he redoubles.

Suppose the declaration is three no trumps, doubled, and the declarer

makes five by cards. He scores 5 times 20 toward game, aces as held,

and then 150 in penalties, 50 of which is for fulfilling his contract

and twice 50 for the two tricks over his contract.

_=KEEPING SCORE.=_ Two styles of score-pad are now in general use. In

one the tricks and honours are entered in the same vertical column,

one above the other, and are all added in one sum at the end. In the

other style of pad the tricks are in one column and the honours and

penalties in another, so that four additions are required to find the

value of the rubber, which is always the difference between the total

scores after giving the winners of two games 250 points. The following

illustration will show both styles of pad:

WE ||THEY

|| 36

|| 30

18 || 100

16 ||

====++====

8 ||

|| 40

----++----

|| 36

----++----

|| 250

----++----

42 || 492

|| 42

|+----

|| 450

WE || THEY

8 | 16 || |

| 18 || | 100

| || 40 | 30

----+----++----+-----

| || 36 | 36

----+----++----+-----

8 | 34 || 76 | 166

| 8 || | 76

+----+| | 250

| 42 || +-----

| || | 492

| || | 42

| || +-----

| || | 450

The scoring on which this rubber is won and lost was as follows: WE

started with a contract to win one heart and made it, with simple

honours, scoring 8 toward game and 16 above for honours. Then THEY set

a contract for two tricks, getting 100 in penalties, against simple

honours in royals, scored as 18 above for WE and 100 for THEY. Then

THEY made four odd at no trump and 30 aces, winning the first game,

under which a line is drawn.

On the next deal THEY made four odd in royals, with four honours, 36

each way, winning the second game and also the rubber, for which they

add 250 points. Both scores are now added up and the lower deducted

from the higher, showing that THEY win 450 points on the balance.

_=CUTTING OUT.=_ At the conclusion of the rubber, if there are more

than four candidates for play, the selection of the new table is made

by cutting; those who have just played having an equal chance with the

newcomers. The reason for this is that a Bridge table is complete with

four, and that a rubber is usually too long, with its preliminaries of

making the trump, and its finalities of settling the score, for players

to wait their turn. A rubber at Short Whist is often over in two hands;

but a carefully played rubber at Bridge sometimes occupies an hour.

_=CHEATING.=_ Most of the cheating done at the bridge table is of such

a character that it cannot be challenged without difficulty, although

there is enough of it to be most annoying.

Some players will place an ace about four cards from the top when

they shuffle the cards, so that when the pack is spread for the cut

they can draw it and get the first deal. Second dealing is a common

trick, especially on ocean steamers, marking the aces and slipping them

back if they would fall to an adversary dealing them to the partner

instead, who can go no trumps and score a hundred aces several times

in an evening. Women are great offenders in trifling matters, such as

asking the dealer if she passed it, when nothing has been said; looking

over the adversaries’ hands as dummy, and then pushing dummy’s cards

forward, as if arranging them, but in reality indicating which one to

play. A great deal of petty cheating is done in putting down the score,

and also in balancing it by cancellation. In large charity games, some

women are so eager to win a prize that they will stoop to all manner

of private signals, and some go so far as to make up a table and agree

to double everything, so that some one of the four shall have a big

score. Another common trick in so-called social games is to have a

stool pigeon to overlook the hand of another and signal it up to the

confederate who is playing.

There may be some remedy for this sort of thing, but so far no one

seems to have found it; or at least they lack the courage to put it in

practice and expose the offenders.

_=SUGGESTIONS FOR GOOD PLAY.=_ The great secret of success in auction

lies in sound bidding, so that no bid shall have a double meaning and

the partner may be able to rely absolutely on the information which

the bid should convey. The complications of the situation are so

numerous, owing to the variations introduced by each succeeding bid

as the players over-call one another, that it would be impossible to

cover them in a work of this kind, and the student would do well to

consult some such work as “Whitehead’s Conventions,” which covers every

situation that could possibly arise in the bidding.

A few general hints may be of assistance in showing the principles that

govern the more common situations.

_=The Dealer’s Bids=_ may be divided into four parts; a spade, a losing

suit, a winning suit, and no trumps. The one-spade bid simply means, “I

pass,” but it does not signify that he will not be willing to bid on

the second round. It has nothing whatever to do with the spade suit.

The dealer should never call any suit on the first round of bids unless

he has two sure tricks in it. If it is a losing suit, he may have just

those two tricks and nothing else, and the shorter the suit the better,

but the tricks must be A K, or K Q J, or A Q J. If it is a winning

suit he must have at least five cards of it and a trick or two in some

other suit to back it up.

If the dealer bids two spades, he shows two sure tricks in a short

spade suit and a sure trick outside. If he bids three spades he shows

five or more spades and strength enough outside for royals, but denies

two sure tricks in the spade suit itself. The dealer should bid no

trumps when he has not length enough to bid hearts or royals, but has a

hand as good as three aces, well protected in three suits.

_=The Second Hand=_ should declare just as if he were the dealer when

the dealer starts with one spade. He may even go no trump on a lighter

hand. When the dealer bids a suit, second hand should over-call only

when he can make his contract or wishes to indicate a lead in case

third hand should go to no trumps. Second hand should never take the

dealer out of a losing suit with a winning suit unless he has seven

tricks in his own hand. If the dealer bids no trump, second hand should

pass, unless he is prepared to over-call any further bid for three

tricks.

_=Third Hand=_ is not obliged to take the dealer out of a spade, and

should not do so unless he is a trick or two stronger than he would

have to be to declare as dealer. But the dealer must never be left in

with a two or three spade bid. If third hand cannot do any better,

he should declare a royal. When the dealer bids no trump, third hand

should take him out with any weak five card suit and nothing else,

simply to warn him that there are no winning cards in the hand. Always

take him out with five cards in a winning suit, no matter how strong

the rest of the hand.

Take the dealer out of one suit with another suit only to deny his

suit. Take him out of a winning suit with no trump, only to deny his

suit and show strength in each of the three other suits. If the dealer

bids no trump and second hand calls a suit, double if you can stop the

suit twice, otherwise show any good suit of your own, but do not go

two no-trumps unless you can do it all yourself. Leave that to your

partner. Do not assist your partner’s suit bids with less than three

tricks if second hand over-calls.

_=Fourth Hand=_ bids on the bidding much more than on his cards. He

should never take the dealer out of a spade that both second and third

hand have passed unless he can go game. If the dealer bids a losing

suit, second and third hands passing, leave him in unless you can go

game and are not afraid of a shift. If the dealer bids a winning suit,

second and third hands passing, make any sound declaration. If the

dealer starts with no trumps, show any suit that might save the game

if led at once by your partner.

_=Subsequent Bids.=_ Any suit bid on the second round but not on the

first, shows length without the tops. When a winning suit is taken out

by the partner, a losing suit bid on the second round shows tops in it.

Any suit rebid on the second round, without waiting for the partner’s

assistance, shows six or seven sure tricks in hand.

Never bid a hand twice, unless its strength is greater than indicated

by the first bid. Having bid a club on ace king alone, that is the end

of it. If you have an outside ace, which the club bid did not show,

you can assist your partner once on that trick, but no more. Having

assisted your partner’s suit bid with three tricks, do not bid again

unless you have a fourth trick in hand, but if he rebids his suit

without waiting for you, you may assist on one trick, especially a high

honour in trumps.

Do not double unless you have a certainty and are not afraid of a

shift. Do not give up a fair chance for going game yourself just to

double an adversary, unless you are sure of 200 in penalties at least,

and do not give up the rubber game for less than 300. Always remember

that a double may enable an adversary to go game, and will often show

the declarer which hand to finesse against.

_=Free Doubles=_ are opportunities to double when the declarer will go

game anyhow if he makes his contract, but they should never be made if

there is any chance that he may shift.

_=Free Bids=_ are anything better than a spade by the dealer, or

anything that over-calls a previous bid, because no one is forced to

bid on the first round. A _=Shout=_ is a bid that is a trick more than

necessary to over-call the previous bid. It shows a solid suit, or five

or six sure tricks in hand. In a losing suit it is a loud call for the

partner to go no trumps if he can. A free bid in a losing suit shows

the high cards; in a winning suit it shows the tricks in hand.

_=A Forced Bid=_ is one that is necessary to over-call, such as two

diamonds over a heart. This does not mean that the caller would have

bid two diamonds originally. A player who must indicate a lead against

a no-trumper makes a forced bid.

_=The Original Lead.=_ The first card must be played before dummy’s

hand is exposed.

_=OPENING LEADS.=_ The position which we have first to consider is that

of the eldest hand, usually designated by the letter “A,” who sits on

the declarer’s left.

[Illustration:

Pone

+-------+

| B |

Dummy |Y Z| Declarer

| A |

+-------+

Leader

]

_=Selecting the Suit to Lead.=_ If your partner has declared a suit,

lead the best card you hold of it, regardless of number, unless you

have an ace-king suit of your own, in which case lead the king first

and have a look at dummy. If partner has not declared anything, lead

your own suit. With high cards not in sequence, such as ace-queen,

king-jack, or even queen-ten, in every suit but trumps, lead the trump.

There is a great difference between playing against a trump declaration

and against no-trumpers; because in the first case the leader is

opposed to unusual trump strength and his object must be to make what

he can of his winning cards, before the declarer gets into the lead

and discards his weak suits, so as to be ready to trump them. But in

the second case, there being no trumps, the leader’s object should

be to get a suit established against the dealer, if he can, and the

longer the suit is, the better. The dealer’s strength in a no-trumper

is usually scattered, and he may often be found with a weak or missing

suit, which is generally the suit in which the eldest hand or his

partner is long.

We shall first consider the leads against trump declarations, because

they are more common and are also the more useful. If a player makes

a trump-hand lead against a no-trump declaration, he will not do

nearly so much harm as if he make a no-trump-hand lead against a trump

declaration. For that reason, if a player cannot master both systems of

leading, it is better for him to learn the leads against trumps than

those against no-trumps.

_=Rules for Leading High Cards.=_ With such a suit as A K Q 2, no one

need be told not to begin with the deuce. Whenever a player holds two

or more of the best cards of a suit he should play one of them. If he

holds both second and third best, playing one of them will force the

best out of his way, leaving him with the commanding card.

The cards which are recognised by bridge players as high, are the A K Q

J 10, and if we separate the various combinations from which a player

should lead each of them, a study of the groups so formed will greatly

facilitate our recollection of them.

In the first group are those containing two or more of the best cards.

In this and all following notation, the exact size of any card below a

Ten is immaterial.

[Illustration:

🂡 🂮 🂭 🂫 | 🂱 🂾 🂻 🂷

🃁 🃎 🃍 🃆 | 🃑 🃞 🃔 🃓

]

So far as trick-taking is concerned, it is of no importance which of

the winning cards is first led; but good players lead the _=King=_ from

all these combinations in order that the partner may be informed, by

its winning, that the leader holds the Ace also.

In the second group are those containing both the second and third

best, but not the best.

[Illustration:

🂮 🂭 🂫 🂪 | 🂾 🂽 🂺 🂸

🃎 🃍 🃋 🃄 | 🃞 🃝 🃗 🃖

]

The _=King=_ is the proper lead from these combinations. If it wins,

the partner should have the Ace; if it loses, partner should know the

leader holds at least the Queen.

Both these groups, which contain all the King leads, may be easily

remembered by observing that the King is always led if accompanied

by the Ace or Queen, or both. Beginners should follow this rule for

leading the King, regardless of the number of small cards in the suit.

There is only one combination from which the _=Queen=_ is led,

[Illustration:

🃝 🃛 🃗 🃖

]

when it is accompanied by the Jack, and there is no higher card of the

suit in the hand. Whether the ten follows the Jack or not, does not

matter. With any two high cards in sequence, the lead is a high card

when playing against a declared trump.

The _=Jack=_ is never led except as a supporting card. It is always the

top of the suit, and the suit is usually short. The object of making

such an opening is to avoid leading suits headed by two honours which

are not in sequence. These are good Jack leads:

[Illustration:

🂻 🂺 🂹 🂴

🂫 🂧

]

Foster's Complete Hoyle: An Encyclopedia of Games Including all indoor games played to-day. With suggestions for good play, illustrative hands, and all official laws to date · 第 2 / 70 段