CHAPTER XXVIII.

THE DENVER OF TO-DAY AND ITS ENVIRONS.

The Denver of to-day, the capital of Colorado, has a population of

160,000, and it stands at an elevation of 5,196 feet.

In 1858 the Pike's Peak gold excitement caused a rush from the East to

Colorado, and a camp was pitched at the junction of Cherry Creek and the

Platte. From this small beginning sprang Denver, the "Queen City of the

Plains." Beautiful in situation, with the great range of the Rocky

Mountains towering in the west, and the illimitable plains stretching

600 miles to the Missouri River on the east, Denver is worthy of the

attention and admiration of all who behold it. It is one of the greatest

railroad points in the West, twelve railroads centering here and

radiating to all parts of the United States, thus giving Denver almost

unsurpassed facilities for transcontinental traffic. The foot-hills of

the Rocky Mountains are only fourteen miles distant, and Long's Peak,

James' Peak, Gray's Peak, and Pike's Peak are in plain view, connected

by the gleaming serrated line of the Snowy Range. Parks, boulevards,

opera houses, and costly and elegant public buildings and private

residences are a few of the most obvious signs of wealth, cultivation,

and luxury which are to be found in Colorado's capital. Among the

principal places of interest may be mentioned the Tabor Grand Opera

House, erected at a cost of $850,000, and which is the finest building

of its kind in America, having but one rival in the world, the Grand

Opera House in Paris; the United States Mint; the County Court House, a

most elegant and costly structure occupying an entire block with the

buildings and grounds; the City Hall, University of Denver, St. Mary's

Academy, Wolfe Hall, Trinity M. E. Church, St. John's Cathedral, College

of the Sacred Heart, Jarvis Hall, Baptist Female College, Brown's Palace

Hotel, and hotels and business blocks, any of which would do credit to

any of the metropolitan cities of the East. The city has extensive

systems of street cars, motor lines and cables, is lighted by gas and

electricity, has excellent waterworks, a well-disciplined and effective

paid fire department, good police force, and telephone communication in

the city and with suburban towns to the distance of 120 miles. The

discovery that artesian wells can be sunk successfully has added much to

the attractiveness of the city. The water is almost chemically pure, and

is forced to a great height by hydrostatic pressure. Denver is the

objective point for a large tourist travel, and it is estimated that the

arrivals during the year will average 1,000 daily. The climate is

healthful and invigorating, and invalids find this an excellent place to

regain their health. There is always some pleasing attraction to divert

the mind. The theaters are open the year round, and the best companies

and stars from the East appear upon their boards. The churches are

presided over by clergymen of talent and culture. The newspapers are

metropolitan in size and management. In a word, Denver is one of the

most pleasant residence cities in the world. Rapid as has been the

growth of this wonderful city, it is evident that it is but on the

threshold of its prosperity, and that the future holds for it much more

and greater success than has been vouchsafed it in the past.

Thirty-three miles south of Denver, on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad,

is Castle Rock. It is a picturesque little village, and derives its name

from a bold and remarkable promontory which springs directly from the

plain and under whose shadow the village stands. This promontory always

attracts the attention of tourists, and is therefore worthy of special

mention.

Perry Park is situated within half an hour's drive of Larkspur Station,

and in natural attractions has few if any superiors in the State.

Bountifully supplied with pure and sparkling water, and protected on the

west by the Front Range of mountains, it forms a quiet and romantic

resting-place for those who wish a pleasant summer's outing free from

the annoyances of business. The park is filled with many remarkable rock

formations equal in unique grandeur to those of the better known but not

more attractive Garden of the Gods.

Palmer Lake is situated on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, about

midway between Denver and Pueblo, the two principal towns of Colorado.

It was formerly called "Divide," a very significant and appropriate

title, as on the crest of this summit the waters divide, flowing

northward into the Platte, which empties into the Missouri, and

southward into the Arkansas as it wends its way to the Mississippi.

The traveler will enjoy a most delightful variety of scenery. On either

side are rolling plains dotted with numerous herds of sheep and cattle,

agricultural settlements with cultivated ranches, giving evidence of

enterprise and thrift. Now and then we catch a glimpse of the river

threading its way amid valleys and glens, while stretching away in the

distance the cliffs and towering peaks of the Snowy Range, in their

dazzling whiteness, appear like fleecy clouds upon the horizon, and form

a striking contrast with the blue-tinted foot-hills, which, as we near

them, appear covered with oak shrubbery, bright flowers, castled rocks,

scattered pines, and quaking aspen glimmering in the sunshine.

Gradually ascending the mountain pathway we reach the summit (2,000 feet

higher than either Denver or Pueblo), and entering a gap in the

mountains, before us lies Palmer Lake. Nestled here in this mountain

scenery, sparkling like a diamond in its emerald setting, this lake is a

delightful surprise to the tourist--a rare and unlooked-for feature in

the landscape.

Glen Park, the Colorado Chautauqua, is within half a mile of Palmer

Lake, in a charming park-like expanse between two mountain streamlets,

and at the mouth of a beautiful cañon, fifty-three miles from Denver.

One hundred and fifty acres are comprised in the town site. The park is

at the foot of the Rocky Mountain range, and is sheltered at the rear by

a towering cliff, 2,000 feet high, and on two sides by small spurs of

the range. A noble growth of large pines is scattered over the park. A

skillful landscape engineer has taken advantage of every natural beauty,

and studied the best topographical effect in laying out the streets,

parks, reservoirs, drives, walks, trails, and lookout points. It is a

spot that must be seen to be appreciated, and every visitor whose

opinion has been learned has come away captivated. There are building

sites for all tastes. Some have a grand outlook, taking in a sweep of

the valley for a distance of fifty miles.

Colorado Springs is the county seat of El Paso County, has a population

of 12,000, and stands at an elevation of 5,982 feet. This delightful

little city is essentially one of homes, where the families of many of

the most influential business men of the State reside. It is a

temperance town, with charming society, and an elegant opera house,

built as a place of enjoyment rather than as an investment, by some of

the most successful citizens. There are many points of scenic interest

within an hour's ride of the city. Among them may be mentioned Cheyenne

Cañons, Austin's Glen, Blair Athol, Queen's Cañon, and Glen Eyrie. No

more delightful places can be found in which to enjoy the beautiful in

nature and to breathe the health-giving and exhilarating air than these

mountains and Pike's Peak. There are a number of smaller hotels and a

good supply of comfortable and home-like boarding houses, in different

parts of the town; also fine livery stables, where riding and driving

horses and carriages of the best are furnished at reasonable rates.

Colorado City, the first Territorial capital of Colorado, and at present

a thriving railroad town, is situated on the Denver & Rio Grande

Railroad, midway between Colorado Springs and Manitou Springs,

seventy-eight miles from Denver.

Manitou Springs. Of all nature's lovely spots few equal, and none

surpass, in beauty of location, grandeur of surroundings, and sublimity

of scenery this veritable "Gem of the Rockies." As a pleasure resort it

presents to the tourist more objects of scenic interest than any resort

of a like character in the Old or New World; while its wonderful

effervescent and mineral springs, soda and iron, make it the favorite

resting-place for invalids. The great superiority of Manitou's climate

is found in its dryness and the even temperature the year round. In

summer the cool breezes from the mountains temper the heat, the nights

always being cool enough to allow that refreshing sleep so grateful to

all and most needed by the invalid.

There are more points of interest near Manitou than any other watering

place in the world. The following is a partial list, with the distances

in miles from town attached:

MILES.

Ruxton Creek to Iron Springs and Hotel 1

Ute Pass to Rainbow Falls and Grand Cavern 1½

Red Cañon 3

Crystal Park 3

Garden of the Gods 3

Glen Eyrie 5

Monument Park by trail 7½

Monument Park by carriage 9

Seven Lakes by horse trail 9

Seven Lakes by carriage road 12

North Cheyenne Cañon 8½

South Cheyenne Cañon 9

Summit of Pike's Peak 12

In addition to these well-known localities there are scores of cañons,

caves, waterfalls, and charming nooks which the sojourner for health or

pleasure can seek out for himself.

The Garden of the Gods has been described and photographed more than any

other place of scenic interest in Colorado, but words or pictures fail

to give even the faintest idea of its wealth of gorgeous color, or of

the noble view which its gateway frames. The portals of the gateway

spring from the level plain to a height of 330 feet, and glow with the

most brilliant coloring of red. There is an outer parapet of pure white,

and there are inner columns of varied hues, the whole suggesting the

ruins of a vast temple, once the receptacle of the sacred shrine of the

long-buried gods. Within the garden the rocks assume strange mimetic

forms, and the imagination of the spectator is kept busy discovering

resemblances to beasts or birds, of men and women, and of strange freaks

in architecture.

Glen Eyrie is situated at the entrance to Queen's Cañon, and is a wild

and romantic retreat, in which is built the summer residence of a

gentleman of wealth, whose permanent home is now in the East. Within the

glen, which is made sylvan by thickly growing native shrubbery, covered

with wild clematis, are a great confusion of enormous pillars of

exquisite, tinted pink sandstone.

Cathedral Rock and the Major Domo, which have gained a world-wide fame

through pictures and descriptions, are to be found in Glen Eyrie, as are

also "The Sisters," "Vulcan's Anvil," and "Melrose Abbey." These are all

grand and impressive shapes of stone glowing with the most brilliant

hues of red and pink, and cream and white, and umber.

Blair Athol is about a mile north of Glen Eyrie, and resembles the

latter, with the exception of shrubbery and water. No residence has been

erected here, as the difficulty of obtaining water has been too great to

be successfully overcome. The quaint forms of rock and their brilliant

color, together with the frequent shade of evergreen trees, make this an

interesting and attractive spot.

Bear Creek Cañon is reached by taking the road to Colorado Springs and

turning to the right just before reaching Colorado City. This is a

beautiful drive of five miles, at the end of which the Government trail

to Pike's Peak carries the horseman and footman to the summit. The cañon

is a picturesque wooded glen, with a dashing torrent and abounding in

wild flowers. Bears are still frequently seen here, but they shrink

modestly from forcing their attention upon strangers, and retire

precipitately when made aware of the vicinity of callers.

The Cheyenne Cañons are favorite resorts for picnic and pleasure

parties. Both these cañons give one a good idea of the gorges which

abound in the fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains. They are deep gashes in

the heart of Cheyenne Mountain, and display grand faces of magnificent

red granite hundreds of feet in height. The Douglas spruce, the Rocky

Mountain pine, the white spruce, and that most lovely tree of all, the

_Picea grandis_, grow in great numbers in both cañons, while the

Virginia creeper, two species of clematis (mauve and white), and other

climbers add grace and charm to the scene. A stairway at the Seven Falls

in South Cañon leads to the last resting place of "H. H." (Helen Hunt

Jackson), who selected this spot for her grave. The stream in North

Cheyenne Cañon is larger than that in the southern gorge, but the latter

forms a magnificent cascade, descending 500 feet in seven leaps.

Seven Falls is the name given to the cascade referred to above, and it

is well worthy the admiration its beauty always excites.

The Cheyenne Mountain toll-road is well worth seeing. It ascends the

mountains about one-half mile south of the entrance to South Cheyenne

Cañon, winding, with easy grades, through very fine scenery, and at

times affording glimpses down in the cañon below.

The Seven Lakes are reached by means of the last described road. The

lakes are picturesque, and such sheets of water usually are among the

mountains, and there is a hotel for the accommodation of visitors.

"My Garden" is a very favorite resort, discovered by "H. H.," the

authoress and poet. Take the Cheyenne road one and one-half miles from

Colorado Springs, then follow due south past Broad Moor Dairy Farm half

a mile, then through a gate across the "Big Hollow," and "My Garden" is

reached, a lovely pine grove crowning the plateau, with an exquisite

view of the range behind it.

Monument Park, Edgerton Station, sixty-seven miles south from Denver and

eight miles northward from Colorado Springs and Manitou, is a pleasant

day's excursion. "The Pines" is a comfortable hotel, situated in the

center of the park, one-half mile from the depot, commanding a fine

view of Pike's Peak and Cheyenne Mountain Range; is open at all times

for the accommodation of guests, and can furnish saddle-horses and

carriages on premises. This park is chiefly remarkable for its very

fantastic forms, in which time and the action of air and water have worn

the cream-colored sandstone rocks which the valleys have exposed,

forming grotesque groups of figures, some of them resembling human

beings, viz.: Dutch Wedding, Quaker Meeting, Lone Sentinel, Dutch

Parliament, Vulcan's Anvil and Workshop, Romeo and Juliet, Necropolis,

or Silent City, The Duchess, Mother Judy, and Colonnade. All of these,

and many others too numerous to mention, are within easy walking

distance of "The Pines."

A very pleasant drive can be taken to Templeton's Gap, which is situated

just north of Austin's Bluffs, and is a sharp depression in the

surrounding hills, characterized by quaint monumental forms of rock.

Ute Pass leads westward from Manitou over the range into South Park. It

is now a wagon road cut in many places from the face of the cliff, the

rocks towering thousands of feet above it on one side and on the other

presenting a sheer descent of nearly as many feet down to where the

fountain brawls along over its rugged channel. The pass was formerly

used as a pony trail by the Ute Indians in their descent to the plains

and in their visits to the "Big Medicine" of the healing springs--the

name given Manitou by the aborigines. No pleasanter ride or drive can be

taken than up Ute Pass. The scenery is grand and the view one of great

loveliness.

Rainbow Falls are only a mile and a half from Manitou up the Pass, and

are well worthy of a visit. They are the most accessible and the most

beautiful on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, and are visited

by thousands of tourists every season.

The Great Manitou Caverns have added an attractive feature to the

diversified wonders of nature surrounding Manitou Springs. The caverns

are located one and a half miles from Manitou Springs. They were

discovered by their present owner, Mr. George W. Snider, in the year

1881, but were only opened to the public in 1885.

The cog-wheel railroad to the summit of Pike's Peak, which was completed

and put in operation in July, 1891, is the most novel railway in the

world. When it reaches its objective point above the clouds, at a height

of 14,147 feet above sea-level, it renders almost insignificant by

comparison the famous cog-way up Mount Washington and the incline

railway up the Rhigi in Switzerland. From its station in Manitou, just

above the Iron Springs, to the station on the summit of Pike's Peak, the

Manitou & Pike's Peak Railway is just eight and three-quarters miles in

length. The cost of construction of the road was a half million dollars.

While it could have been built for many thousands of dollars less by

putting in wooden bridges and trestles, light ties and light rails,

those in charge of the building of the road would not consent to the use

of any flimsy material for the sake of saving any sum of money--a

substantial road that would insure absolute safety being economical, as

well as a guarantee for putting the road from the start on a paying

basis. The road-bed is solid and from fifteen to twenty feet wide,

leaving fully five feet on each side of the cars. The culverts are solid

masonry; the four short bridges are of iron girders resting on

first-class masonry. There are an extra number of ties, which are extra

heavy and extra long. The rails are standard "T" rails, with a double

cog rail in the center. This cog rail weighs 110 tons to the mile, which

is unusually heavy. The rail is built in sections, each being put into a

lathe and the teeth cut. The contract requires that each tooth shall be

within the fifteenth part of an inch of the size specified. At intervals

of every 200 feet the track is anchored to solid masonry to prevent any

possibility of the track slipping from its bed. The cars are designed to

hang low, within eighteen inches of the rails. Each engine built by the

Baldwin Locomotive Works has three cog and pinion appliances, which can

be worked together or independently. In each cog appliance is a double

set of pinion brakes that work in the cog, either one of which when used

can stop the engine in ten inches, going either way, on any grade and at

the maximum speed, eight miles an hour. The cars are not tilted, but the

seats are arranged so as to give the passenger a level sitting. The

engine pushes the cars instead of drawing them, which is of great

advantage. And such is Denver to-day, and its attractive surroundings,

changed from a border wilderness to civilization and grandeur within

thirty years.

Seventy years on the frontier · 第 28 / 40 章