LAUSANNE AGAIN
In going back I walked part of the way, taking in inverse order
Byron’s route, which is interesting because he worked his
reminiscences of it into “Manfred.” This is what Byron says, and it
shows how poems crystallize: “The music of the cows’ bells (for their
wealth, like the Patriarchs’, is cattle) in the pastures (which reach
to a height far above any mountains in Britain) and the shepherds,
shouting to us from crag to crag, and playing on their reeds where the
steeps appeared almost inaccessible, with the surrounding scenery,
realized all that I ever heard or imagined of a pastoral
existence--much more so than Greece or Asia Minor, for there we are a
little too much of the saber and musquet order; and if there is a
crook in one hand, you are sure to see a gun in the other--but this
was pure and unmixed--solitary, savage and patriarchal: the effect I
cannot describe. As we went, they played the ‘Ranz des Vaches’ and
other airs by way of farewell.”
[Illustration: “THE MUSIC OF THE COWS’ BELLS.”]
The pipes of the shepherds he later introduced into “Manfred:”
“Hark! the note,
The natural music of the mountain reed--
For here the patriarchal days are not
A pastoral fable--pipes in the liberal air,
Mix with the sweet bells of the sauntering herd.”
Still in the high lands he describes threading the long, narrow valley
of the Sarine then little traversed by travellers. He describes the
bed of the river as very low and deep, “rapid as anger.” He thought
the people looked free and happy and rich: “the cows superb; a bull
nearly leaped into the _charaban_--agreeable companion in a post
chaise--goats and sheep very thriving. A mountain with enormous
glaciers to the right--the Kletsgerberg; further on, the
Hockthorn--nice names--so soft!--Hockthorn, I believe, very lofty and
craggy, patched with snow only; no glaciers on it, but some good
epaulettes of clouds.”
As he travelled from the Canton Vaud into the Canton of Bern he
crossed between the Château d’Oex and the village of Saanen, so I
reversed the order. The valley then, as now, was famous for its
cheese. Byron says it was famous for cheese, liberty, property and no
taxes, also bad German. They passed along the valley of Simmenthal and
came into the plain of Thun by its narrow entrance with high
precipices wooded to the top. He crossed the river in a boat rowed by
women, which caused him to remark: “Women went right for the first
time in my recollection.” He visited the modern castle of Schadau at
the western end of the Lake of Thun, near the mouth of the Aar. A boat
took them in three hours from Castle Schadau to Neuhaus: “The lake
small, but the banks fine: rocks down to the water’s edge.”
He was carried away by the splendour of the scenery beyond Interlaken.
The glaciers and torrents from the Jungfrau charmed him. He lodged at
the house of the curate, which stood immediately opposite the
Staubbach--“nine hundred feet in height of visible descent.” He heard
an avalanche fall like thunder. “A storm came on--thunder, lightning,
hail; all in perfection and beautiful.” He would not let the guide
carry his cane because it had a sword concealed in it and he was
afraid it might attract the lightning.
He thus describes the fall:--“The torrent is in shape curving over the
rock, like the _tail_ of a white horse streaking in the wind, such
as might be conceived would be that of the ‘pale horse’ on which
_Death_ is mounted in the Apocalypse. It is neither mist nor water but
a something between both; its immense height (nine hundred feet) gives
it a wave, a curve, a spreading here, a condensation there, wonderful
and indescribable.”
[Illustration: THE STAUBBACH.]
Here, again, he got aliment for “Manfred:”
“It is not noon--the sunbow’s rays still arch
The torrent with the many hues of heaven,
And roll the sheeted silver’s waving column,
O’er the crag’s headlong perpendicular,
And flings its lines of foaming light along
And to and fro, like the pale courser’s tail,
The giant steed, to be bestrode by Death
As told in the Apocalypse.”
The rainbow was suggested by the sun shining on the lower part of the
torrent, “of all colors but principally purple and gold, the bow
moving as you move.”
A day later he climbed to the top of the Wengern Mountain, five
thousand feet above the valley, the view comprising the whole of the
Jungfrau with all her glacier, then the Dent d’Argent, “shining like
truth,” the two Eigers and the Wetterhorn. He says: “I heard the
avalanches falling every five minutes nearly--as if God was pelting
the Devil down from Heaven with snowballs. From where we stood, on the
Wengern Alp, we had all these in view on one side: on the other, the
clouds rose from the opposite valley, curling up perpendicular
precipices like the foam of the Ocean of Hell during a Springtide--it
was white and sulphury and immeasurably deep in appearance.” From the
summit they “looked down upon a boiling sea of cloud, dashing against
the crags on which we stood.”
The avalanches and sulphurous clouds of course became part of the
_décor_ of “Manfred:”
“Ye avalanches, whom a breath draws down
In mountainous overwhelming, come and crush me!
I hear ye momently above, beneath,
Crash with a frequent conflict; but ye pass,
And only fall on things which still would live.
“The mists boil up around the glaciers; clouds
Rise curling fast beneath me, white and sulphury,
Like foam from the roused ocean of deep Hell.”
He saw the Grindelwald Glacier distinct, though it was twilight, and
he compared it to a frozen hurricane, a figure which he put unchanged
in his poem:
“O’er the savage sea,
The glassy ocean of the mountain ice,
We skim its rugged breakers, which put on
The aspect of a tumbling tempest’s foam,
Frozen in a moment.”
Passing over the Great Scheideck, Rosenlaui, the Falls of the
Reichenbach (“two hundred feet high”), the Valley of Oberhasli, he
reached Brienz, where four of the peasant girls of Oberhasli sang the
airs of their country--“wild and original and at the same time of
great sweetness.”
* * * * *
The summer was drawing to an end. I had got somewhat tired of
excursions, and was content to settle down to a regular course of
reading. I suppose if it had not been for my beloved relatives I might
have been tempted to plan for a winter in Rome, which had for years
seemed to me a desirable place to visit. If it had not been for these
same dear ones, there were a dozen places in Switzerland which would
have attracted me. I detest the cold, and Montreux, which has been
called the Riviera of Helvetia, offered a climate tempered against the
pernicious _bise_. We ran up to the Tour d’Aï one afternoon and I was
fascinated with the place.
Will and I made a walking trip through the Bernese Oberland and we
both liked Thun. He suggested that it was because we, or I, happened
to be musical. I vowed that I would, in some way, get possession of
the Twelfth-Century Castle of Zähringen-Kyburg, have it refitted with
all American conveniences and live there the rest of my days--provided
I could find the right kind of a housekeeper. Seriously, is there any
more magnificent view in all Switzerland than from the environs of
Thun and from the lake? I trow not. But perhaps one would weary of too
grandiose views; after all, for human nature’s daily food, human
society is preferable to mountains, and the fact that the tamer lakes,
such as Leman and Constance, seem to attract for regular residence
more congenial personages than I could find dwelt at Thun might make
one pause in one’s plan to oust the museum and turn public property
into a selfish private possession. I could not follow Voltaire’s
example and buy every château I saw and liked!
So I was contented enough with Lausanne as a home. I do not propose to
inflict on my friends an account of every excursion that I took. That
through the Oberland perhaps more than any other made me realize how
completely I was subjected to that peculiar hypnotic influence which
we agree to call a spell.
[Illustration: A STREET IN THUN.]
It is a curious thing that in many of the high mountain passes, where
desolation of barrenness reigns, there is a lake said to have been
formed by the tears of Ahasuerus, the Wandering Jew. For instance,
when he first came to the Grimsel pass, between Bern and Valais, it
was radiant with fertile beauty; the climate was warm; it supported a
happy population; but he passed like a desolating breath, and when,
years later, he came again, in that never-ceasing round, all was
changed. He wept and his tears formed “The Lake of the Dead”--Der
Totensee. In it lie the bones of those who perished in that terrible
struggle between the Austrians and the French in 1799. There are all
sorts of wonderful legends which one might collect. For instance, how
came the Grindelwald to be so wide?--not that it is so wide,--but
still it is wider than it once was! Well, Saint Martin came there and
was not satisfied with its appearance, so he pried the valley walls
apart. The prints of his feet are visible. On the way to the Grimsel
we spent a long time at the Handeck Fall, which is regarded as the
finest in Europe; the Aar with considerable volume of water falls
into an abyss about twenty-three meters higher than Niagara.
* * * * *
I followed Byron’s footsteps in following Rousseau’s--only much more
deliberately. It is rather difficult now, for many of the houses which
sheltered Rousseau and his fair mistress have been destroyed; that one
which belonged to Madame de Warens’s father, J. B. de la Tour, “Baron
de l’Empire,” was taken down in 1889. The daughter was educated at
Lausanne and married Noble Sebastien-Isaac de Loys, son of the
Seigneur de Villardin, and a soldier who had fought in the Swedish
service. As M. de Loys possessed a seigneurie in a neighbouring
village he took the name of it and called himself Vuarens, which the
Bernese made into Warens. I sympathized with poor M. de Warens. He
tells the story of his marital troubles in a letter which is a volume
and breathes sincerity. But there is a good deal of comedy about the
whole affair, and only Madame de Warens’s pathetic ending, in poverty
and neglect, makes one feel sorry for her.
In 1762 the Comte d’Escheray--a young man of twenty-nine--happened to
be living in a little house at Motiers-Travers, in a delightful
valley, spending his time in the cultivation of literature and music,
in walking and in hunting. Rousseau was there also, and the count
gives a lively narrative of his acquaintance with the philosopher; his
dinners, his conversations, his evening walks in the woods, singing
duets. One day he and Rousseau walked from Colombier to Les
Brenets--six leagues--stopping every little while to study the wild
places. The count says: “I consider this little portion of the Jura,
enclosed in the boundaries of Neuchâtel, as one of the most curious
countries in the world for the philosopher, the physician, the
geologist, the artist and the mechanician to study.” They finally came
to the residence of M. du Peyron, a rich, charitable American.
Rousseau took kindly to him and they botanized together.
It was a pleasant excursion to pick out Rousseau’s tracks in this
expedition.
I also made a study of Voltaire’s life, and read a great deal of his
writings. I prepared an article on his theatrical ventures. One of his
châteaux was Monrion (which means _mons rotundus_) on the crest
between Lausanne and the lake. It was a square two-story building with
high attic and L-shaped wings. It had twenty-four rooms with superb
views. He did not live in it long, and it passed into the hands of
Dr. Tissot. Voltaire moved into a house in Lausanne, 6, Rue du Grand
Chêne, and here he gave theatrical entertainments. He also organized
them at Monrepos, a château then owned by the Marquis de Langalérie.
The stage was in the barn but the spectators were in the house. He
wrote his friends about the success of them: “I play the old man,
Lusignan.... I assure you, without vanity, that I am the best old fool
to be found in any company.” To his friend Thiriot: “I wish that you
had passed the winter with me at Lausanne. You would have seen new
pieces performed by excellent actors, strangers coming from thirty
leagues around, and my beautiful shores of Lake Leman become the home
of art, of pleasure, and of taste.” To his niece, Madame de Fontaine:
“The idlers of Paris think that Switzerland is a savage country; they
would be very much astonished if they saw ‘Zaire’ better played at
Lausanne than it is played at Paris; they would be still more
surprised to see two hundred spectators as good judges as there are in
Europe.... I have made tears flow from all the Swiss eyes.” When he
moved to Geneva, and especially when he bought the château of
Ferney, so that he might be a thorn in the flesh of Genevese
sanctimoniousness, he was older, but still played his parts.
[Illustration: CHÂTEAU VOLTAIRE, FERNEY.]
In 1760 Catherine de Chandieu, then a girl of nineteen, was at Geneva
and saw Voltaire’s play “Fanime,” given extremely well by Madame
Denis, Madame Constant-Pictet, Mademoiselle de Basincourt and Voltaire
himself. She describes him thus: “Voltaire was dressed in a way which
was enough to make one choke with amusement; he wore huge culottes
which came down to his ankles, a little vest of red silk embroidered
with gold; over this vest a very large vest of magnificent material,
white embroidered in gold and silver; it was open at one side so as to
show the undervest and on the other it came down below the knee; his
culottes were of satin cramoisi; over his great vest he wore a kind of
coat of satin with silver, and over the whole a blue mantle _doublé de
cramoisi_ galooned with gold and superb; when he appeared on the stage
many people began to laugh and I was one of them; he had a huge white
beard which he had to readjust several times, and a certain comic look
even in the most tragic passages.”
Madame de Genlis went to Geneva on purpose to call on M. de Voltaire,
though she had no letter to him. He invited her to dinner, and, by a
mistake, she arrived too early. She gives a very entertaining account
of her experiences. One little passage is characteristic:
“What an effect the presence of such a man as Voltaire must have had
on the pious Genevans may be imagined when this story was told of him.
Shortly after the publication of ‘Emile,’ Voltaire was discussing
Rousseau’s marvellous picture of the sunrise. ‘I must try it,’ said
he. ‘I, too, will go some morning on the top of a mountain; I should
like to know if one is really compelled to adore the Creator at
daybreak.’ The necessary preparations were made; they set out at night
and reached just before dawn the Col de la Faucille in the Jura. The
sunrise was splendid.... Voltaire knelt down, gazed in silence and
then said: ‘Yes, Creator of heaven and earth, I adore you before the
magnificence of your works.’ ... Then getting up, he rubbed his knees
and cried: ‘Mais quant à monsieur votre fils et à madame sa mère, je
ne les connais pas!’
“When Rousseau heard that he became pensive and then said, ‘Oh, that
man, that man, he would make me hate the page of my works which I like
best.’
“When the earthquake at Lisbon shocked the whole world Pastor Vernes
preached a celebrated sermon which led Voltaire to write: ‘Sir, it
is said you have written such a beautiful sermon on the event that it
would have been really unfortunate had Lisbon not been destroyed, for
we should have been deprived of a magnificent discourse.’”
[Illustration: WRESTLING AT A VILLAGE FESTIVAL.]
Another plan which occupied me in the hours which I consecrated to
regular work was for an article on the village festivals of
Switzerland:--The charming Narcissus Festival of Montreux, celebrated
in May, the great Fête of the Abbé des Vignerons, so fascinatingly
described by Juste Olivier and so cleverly worked by James Fenimore
Cooper into his novel, “The Headsman.” It would include processions
through picturesque streets and the rejoicings at the return of the
cows from the Alp with the Ranz des Vaches:--
“Blantz et neìre,
Rotz et motaìle,
Dzjoùven et ôtro
Les sonaillire
Van lez premire
La tôte neìre
Van lez derrière:
Hau! hau! llauba!”
I gathered any quantity of material about Swiss authors and composers:
Jacques Hoffmann, Johanna Spyri, Töpfer, Amiel, Olivier,--none,
perhaps, stars of the first magnitude--unless the Painter Böcklin--but
all interesting.
When winter came we went to see the winter sports at Saint-Moritz--the
skiing where it was not uncommon for some of the French and Norwegian
champions to leap almost thirty meters. Indeed, one man flew through
the air forty-six meters, but could not keep his balance when he
struck far down the slope. I was not tempted to try it.
Switzerland in winter is even more beautiful than in summer. The
uniform blanket of dazzling snow, though its curves are filled with
vivid tints of violet and blue, may be hard on the eyes. The mercury
may go low but the purity of the atmosphere and its exhilaration atone
for the discomfort of cold. In the house we kept warm and cozy. The
children were well and happy and I stayed on and on: I could not
resist the Spell.
THE END.
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INDEX
Abraham, age of, 433.
“Abraham’s Sacrifice,” drama by Theodore de Bèze, 41.
Acaunum, old name of Saint-Maurice, 340, 341.
Adams, Charles Francis, at Geneva, 248.
Addison, Joseph, on the Alps, 223;
makes trip round Lake Leman, 291-294.
Aeroplane, 279.
Agassiz, Louis, studies glacial action, 373.
Agesilaus, hero of Rousseau, 236.
Aiguille du Midi, 377.
Aile, Château de l’, 120.
Airolo, captured, 423.
Aix-les-Bains, 30.
Alabama claims, settled at Geneva, 247, 248.
Albano, Lake of, 34.
Alexander, Father, gives amulets, 265.
Allalinhorn, ascent of, 368, 369.
Allemanni, invasions of, 48;
relics of, 269, 441.
Allobrogi, 208;
attack the Carthaginians, 387;
freedom loving, 433.
Alpenglow, 11, 147;
described by Javelle, 359;
from Bern, 412.
Alphubel, the, 369.
Alpine Club, shelters of the, 362;
Annuaire of, 372.
Alps, formation of, 12, 13;
description of, 163;
described by Amiel, 184;
time in crossing, 272;
effect on Geneva, 293;
view of, 340, 348, 353;
motion of, 366;
ancient passages of, 382;
from the Lake of Zürich, 441.
Altorf, 422.
Amédée VIII, Duc, monument to, at Lausanne, 61.
Amiel, Henri-Frédéric, quoted, 184, 468.
Amphion, Spring of, 177.
Anchor Inn, Byron at, 138.
Andermatt, capture of, 423.
Angeville, Mlle. Henriette d’, climbs Mont Blanc, 278.
Annecy, Madame de Warens at, 239;
Rousseau at, 240;
M. Venture at, 243.
Aoste, 382.
Apostles, Gate of the (Lausanne Cathedral), 58, 59.
Ardon, 348.
Areuse, River, 403.
Argentière, Mont, seen by Byron, 141, 370, 375.
Arianna, Musée, treasures of, 269.
Aristocracy, in Switzerland and Spain, 71.
Aristotle, hero of Rousseau, 236.
Arnold, Sir Edwin, poem on Pilatus, 448, 449.
Arpille, the, 348.
Art, village of, 309.
Arval, Mont, 122.
Arve, River, 123, 162;
junction with the Rhône, 199, 203;
in Coleridge, 329;
in Shelley, 333;
dammed, 375.
Arveiron, River, 329.
Aubigné, T. A. d’, tablet to, 212.
Aubonne, M. d’, writes a play, 242.
Aubonne, torrent of, 288.
Augustus, Emperor, conquers the Wallisi, 343.
Auldjo, M., shows limit of vision, 273.
Aulph, Saint Jean d’, hamlet of, 183.
Auvergnier, lake-dwellings at, 16.
Auvermé, 404.
Avalanches, 108, 367, 458.
Avenches, a modern Pompeii, 408.
Aventicum, relics of, 408.
Avignon, 30.
“Avis au Peuple,” 312.
Aymon, Count, bestows Chamonix valley, 371.
Aztecs and Egyptians, 17.
Bacon, Lord, on travel, 323-325.
Baedecker’s Guide-book, 322.
Bagration, 426, 429.
Bâle (Basel), 78;
Chatillon at, 251, 404, 439.
Balfrin, height of the, 352.
Balgrist, view from the, 440.
Balmat, Jacques, climbs Mont Blanc, 273-275;
monument to, 374.
Balme, Grotte de, 217.
Banc du Travers, 110.
Barthélemy, Château de Saint, 51.
Batiaz, La, castle at, 346.
Baulion, La Dent de, 297, 298, 300.
Bears of Bern, 411.
Beaufort, Antoine de, 127.
_beine_, the, 34, 160, 168.
Bellegarde, 200.
Bellinzona, 423.
Belotte, La, view of, 196.
Bergues, Hôtel des, 197.
Bern, robs Lausanne, 60;
takes possession of Lausanne, 63, 72, 78;
government of, 79;
separate from Rome, 126;
persecutes Rousseau, 246;
joins Geneva, 252;
lands of, 263;
receives appeal from Geneva, 267;
owns Vaud, 292;
bandière of, 405;
arcaded streets of, 410;
militarism of, 419.
Bern, The Headsman of, 110.
Bernard, Pass of Saint, 123, 342.
Berthe, Queen, 48.
Berthold V, founds Bern, 410.
Betzberg, 423.
Bevaix, Abbey of, 403, 404.
Bex, “smiling village” of, 338.
Bèze, Theodore de, at Lausanne, 40;
at Geneva, 257;
offers prayer, 266.
Bich, Jean Baptiste, reaches top of Matterhorn, 356.
Biel, 405.
Bienne, 78;
lake of, 246, 408.
Bionnassay, Glacier of, 272.
Birds of Lake Leman, 194.
Bise, la, 138, 162.
Blackie, John Stuart, poem of, 363.
Blancherose, Doctor, asks inconvenient questions, 64.
Blécheret, Jacques, city physician at Lausanne, 311.
Blegno, Val di, 422.
Bloch, Baron von, war museum, 446.
Blonay, castle of, 71, 402.
Blümlisalp, 108, 413.
Bobbio, Abbey of, 123.
Bodensee, 434.
Bois d’Amont, Le, 302.
Bois de la Bâtie, 204.
Bolsec, Jerome, gets better of Calvin, 211, 212.
Bomilcar, King, 383.
Bonaparte, Joseph, castle of, 288.
Bonivard, Francis, career, 126, 127;
dungeon of, 131;
character of, 137;
prison of, 154;
at University of Geneva, 250;
petitions Council of University, 256.
Bonnet, Charles de, influence of, 52.
Bonneville, 381, 403.
Bons, M. de, describes rockfall, 190.
Bonstetten, Karl Viktor von, 52.
Borgne, the gorge of, 350.
Bossey, Rousseau at, 228, 236.
Bossons, Glacier des, 374, 381.
Boston, at Lausanne, 69.
Bourbourg, Brasseur de, theory of, 17.
Bourg, Rue du, 69.
Bourgoin, 382.
Bourrit, Marc-Théodore, “Historian of the Alps,” 272;
discovers the Col du Géant, 273.
Boutry, 403.
Bovannaz, 108.
Boveret, 154.
Bozen, 444.
Bregaglia, rockfall at, 291.
Brenets, Les, 463.
Bretigny, Seigneur de, gift of, 51.
Brévent, Le, climbed by De Saussure, 271.
Brevoort, Miss, attempts Matterhorn, 356.
Brienz, 452, 459.
Brionne, Comtesse de, 315.
Broccone Pass, 444.
Brogny, Cardinal Jean de, builds chapel, 213;
attempts to found University of Geneva, 249.
Brontë, Charlotte, 119.
Broye, the, 408.
Brunegghorn, the, 352.
Brunn, Frederika, “Chamouni at Sunrise,” 327.
Brutus, hero of Rousseau, 236.
Bryant, William Cullen, describes the Arve, 376.
Bultogerus, Henricus, 431.
Bürkli, Karl, leadership of, 21.
Byron, Lord, criticizes Switzerland, 87;
memories of, 121, 135;
sonnet on Lake of Geneva, 137;
at Sécheron, 137;
excursion with Shelley on Lake Leman, 138;
writes third canto of “Childe Harold,” 140;
criticized by “Dora d’Istria,” 149;
at Coppet, 281, 286;
at Aubonne, 288;
on music of cowbells, 454.
Cæsar, Julius, 208;
names Nyon, 287;
mentions Octodurus, 342.
Calvaires, 184.
Calvin, John, banished by Geneva, 65;
burial-place of, 209;
chair of, 211;
adopted by Geneva, 232;
lacks monument, 234;
takes charge of University, 251.
Calvinism, 72, 75.
Carcassonne, 29.
Carrel, Jean Antoine, reaches top of Matterhorn, 356.
Carrel, Miss, attempts Matterhorn, 356.
Carthage, destruction of, 382.
Cassaccia, 422.
Castillio, driven out of Geneva, 65.
Cau, Mont, 155.
Caucasus, the, 32, 33.
Cenis, Mont, tunnel of, 354;
used by Hannibal (?), 382.
Cerjat, Gaston de, buys Château de Saint-Barthélemy, 52.
Cellemberg, Comte de, sings delicious airs, 94.
Cerlier, 403.
Cervin, Le, 350;
glimpse of, 354-356;
form of, 357, 369.
Chambéry, seized by France, 267;
Jean Volat de, 311.
Chablais, 183;
under Duke of Savoy, 263, 292.
Chamblais, Province of, 123.
Chamonix, 185;
summit of, 263, 271;
discovery of, 279, 372;
poems on, 327-336;
name of, 371;
glaciers at, 373;
formation of, 374;
centre of traffic, 377, 451.
Champéry, starting-point for la Dent du Midi, 185.
Chandieu, Charles de, 49;
family of, 49, 50;
Catherine de, 51, 465.
Chanvan, Château de, 305.
Charlemagne, Emperor, presents Saint-Maurice with ewer and
crozier, 341.
Charles II, Duke of Brunswick’s gift to Geneva, 204;
monument to, 205, 407.
Charles Emmanuel of Savoy, attacks Geneva, 264;
characterizes his general, 266.
Charles Augustus, Duke of Weimar, 308.
Charles the Bold, defeat of, at Grandson, 62, 402-406.
Charles III, Duke of Savoy, 128.
Charles IV, Emperor, attempts to found University at Geneva, 249.
Charrière, Madame de, writes a play, 94;
balloon of, 118, 318;
Professor d’Apples de, 314.
Chastelard, 403.
Châtelard, manoir of, 155.
Chatillon, Sébastien, professor at Geneva, 251.
Chaumény, mountain, 154.
Chaumont (at Neuchâtel), 408.
“Childe Harold,” 140.
Chillon, Castle of, 106, 121, 122-136;
described by Juste Olivier, 146;
finest aspect of, 147;
described by “Dora d’Istria,” 154;
mentioned by Rogers, 169;
from La Dôle, 304.
“Cid, The,” performed at Geneva, 258.
Cité, La (Lausanne), 80.
Clairmont, Jane, with Shelley at Sécheron, 138.
Clarens, 121, 155, 161.
Claude, Canonici of Saint, 302.
Claudius, makes Octodurus market-town, 344.
Clavel, arms of, 48.
Clavière, Etienne, banished from Geneva, 267.
Cluges, 381.
Cockburn, Sir Alexander J. E., at Geneva, 247.
Coire, Russians at, 430.
Col de la Seigne, 382.
Col du Midi, 370.
Coleridge discussed, 327-332, 451.
Collanges, Avenue de, 37, 40.
Colombier, 404, 463.
Combin, Le Grand, 106.
Comte, Auguste, 30.
Confignon, Rousseau at, 238.
Conrad, Duke of Zähringen, builds convent, 401.
Conrad, Emperor, founds Church of St. Peter at Geneva, 210.
Concise, lake dwellings at, 432.
Constance, Lake of, 434.
Constans, 382.
Constant de Rebecque, Benjamin, as a musician, 95;
love-affair with Mme. de Staël, 281;
adoration of, 285.
Constantin Pavlovitch, Grand Duke, 422, 426, 428.
Coolidge, W. A. B., describes Matterhorn, 357.
Cooper, James Fenimore, 109;
describes Lake Leman, 110, 111;
on neglected views, 224;
at Geneva, 261;
describes Lake Leman, 262, 467.
Coppet, Barony of, 84;
mentioned by Rogers, 169;
Madame de Staël at, 280-286.
Corcelle, 404.
Cordier, Mathurin, resigns as professor at Geneva, 251.
“Corinne,” 281;
Madame de Staël in character of, 285.
Cormondrèche, 404.
Cornaz, Jacques-Daniel, sells Château de l’Isle, 51.
Corneille, 263.
Cortailloud, 403.
Coryat, Thomas, “Crudities” of, 431.
“Cossacks, The,” quoted, 32.
Côte, Montagne de la, climbed, 272, 274.
Courland, Pierre de, 317;
at Lausanne, 317.
Couteau, H., painter, 16.
Crassy (Crassier), town of, 79.
Credo, Mont, 305.
Crêt d’eau (Credo), 185.
Crêtes, Château des, 121.
Criant, Pierre, 18, 21, 201, 202, 203.
Crissier, portrait at Château de, 314.
Crousaz, Jean Pierre de, “Logic” of, 77.
Crousaz, Madame de (Montolieu), 321.
Cully, 119.
Curchod, Mlle. Suzanne, 79;
her beauty, 80.
Curchod, Pastor, death of, 82.
Dard, Cascade du, 381.
Daudet, Alphonse, 30.
David fountain at Bern, 412.
Davoz-Platz, 444.
Debate between Catholic and Protestant parties, 63, 64.
Delilah, 438.
Dent, Blanche, la, 361.
Dent du Midi, la, 38;
height of, 66, 105;
description of, 106;
ascent of, 185.
Devil, Swiss names of the, 220.
Devil’s Bridge, 424;
granite cross at, 430.
Devonshire, Georgianna, Duchess of, dinner to, 92.
Dexter, Lord Timothy, example of, 53.
Deyverdun, Georges, 56;
plays the spinet, 94;
death of, 96;
inspires Gibbon, 98;
society founded by, 68;
early diaries of, 77;
invites Gibbon to Lausanne, 85, 86;
indolence of, 88.
Diablerets, Les, 45;
dance of Wotan on, 217.
Diodati, Villa, Byron at, 139.
Dissentis, 422.
Dol, town of, 26.
Dôle, la, 178;
Goethe’s ascent of, 295-307.
Dolomites, the, 9, 401.
Dom, the, 353.
Donnerbrühl, 411.
Dorannaz, 108.
Douglas, Lord Edward, death of, 355;
body lost, 356.
Dranse, La, 162, 180;
valley of, 183;
cone of, 193, 342;
overflow of, 346;
robbed by the Rhône, 348.
Druidical rites, 105.
Ducommun, Abel, Rousseau’s master, 237.
Dufour, General, places plaques on le Niton, 65;
reckons heights, 66.
Duluth, compared in latitude to Lausanne, 112.
Dumas, Alexandre, Père, quoted, 103.
Duvillard, map of, 260.
Ecluse, Fort l’, 305.
Edelspitze, the, 353.
Education of Rousseau, 236;
of French children, 237.
Egli, Emil, discovers 9th century MS., 340.
Eiger, the, seen from Bern, 413.
“Ekkehard,” 434.
Elephants cross the Rhône, 385;
pass the Alps, 391.
Eliot, George, portrait of, at Geneva, 260.
Elton, Sir Charles Abraham, translator of Silius Italicus, 394.
Emerson, Ralph Waldo, parodied, 36;
on travel, 326.
“Emile,” shocks Calvinists, 233, 466.
Emmenthal, 150.
Enoch, Louis, Regent of Geneva University, 251.
Entebüchel, remains at, 440.
Enville, Duc d’, studies glacial action, 372.
Epaune, destruction of, 187.
Erlach, Rudolf von, statue to, 411.
Erlenbach, 221.
Ermenonville, Rousseau dies at, 246.
Escalade, fountain of the, 264;
episode of, 264-266.
Escher, Alfred, autocracy of, 21.
Escheray, Comte d’, trips with Rousseau, 463.
Estavayer, Catherine de, loved by Otho de Grandson, 60.
Estavayer, Gérard de, duel with Otho de Grandson, 60.
Etruscans, perhaps settled Zürich, 433.
Eugster, Fidèle, aerial railway of, 377.
Evarts, William M., at Geneva, 248.
Everest, Mount, 33.
Evian, Byron and Shelley at, 139;
night at, 177.
Evionnaz, catastrophe at, 188.
Eynard, Charles, Life of Dr. Tissot, 13-18.
Fairy of Lake Leman, The, 114.
Falzarego, new road of the, 444.
“Fanime,” Voltaire’s play, 465.
Farel, banished by Geneva, 65.
Faucigni (Faucigny), mountains of, 263, 296.
Faucille, Col de la, 466.
Faulhorn, the, 352.
Félicité, Col de, 356.
Felix V, Pope, at Lausanne, 61, 62.
Ferney, 169, 197, 464.
Finetta, 218, 337.
Finsteraarhorn, the, 108;
seen from Bern, 413.
Fish of Lake Leman, 194.
Flegère, view from, 381.
Flims, derivation of, 192.
Flon, River, 69, 75.
Flowers of the Alps, 152, 450.
Fog, Alpine, 156, 177, 299.
Fontaine, Mme. de, Voltaire’s letter to, 464.
Forces Motrices at Geneva, 199.
Forclaz, Col de la, 310.
Forel, M., 34.
Foron, torrent of, 193.
Four Cantons, Lake of, 444, 450.
Franche-Comté, 300, 303, 361.
François I, court of, 40.
Fraumünster, the, at Zürich, 436.
Frederick the Great, 246;
treated by Dr. Tissot, 314.
Frères Mineurs, Monastery of the, 249.
Fribourg, Rousseau at, 243;
bandière of, 405;
charm of, 409, 439.
Gabelhorn, the, conquered, 353.
Galba, holds council of war, 342.
Gallatin, Albert, in America, 256.
Gallatin, Jean, buys University gardens at Geneva, 256.
Garnier, comedy by, performed at Geneva, 258.
Géant, Col de, discovered by Bourrit, 273;
sunset from, 276, 278.
“Geierstein, Anne of,” 173, 180;
tower of, described by Sir Walter Scott, 173-176.
Geneva, 30, 34, 41, 65;
harbour of, 65, 138;
centre of Calvinism, 73;
typhoid fever at, 113;
children of, 126;
lawsuit with Vaud, 161, 195, 197-267;
pride in Rousseau, 232;
streets of, 246;
Alabama claims settled at, 248;
University of, 249-260;
Constitution of, 267;
described by Addison, 292;
Château de Monnitier, 295;
fog over, 299;
trophy at, 407;
Voltaire at, 464.
Geneva, Lake of, phenomena of, 109;
described by J. F. Cooper, 110, 111;
depth of, 112;
fairy of, 114;
first steamboat on, 115;
described by Byron, 135;
his sonnet to the lake of Geneva, 137;
described by Dora d’Istria, 150;
in winter, 156;
sunset on, 158;
islands in, 160;
rise of, 161;
winds of, 162;
described by Rogers, 170;
fascinations of, 182;
birds of, 194;
origin of name, 208;
Madame de Staël on, 222;
Rousseau’s apostrophe to, 230;
Rousseau’s farewell to, 231;
made famous by Rousseau, 246;
described by Cooper, 262;
view from Aubonne, 288;
Addison on, 291;
fog on, 304;
from Madame de Crousaz’s, 321;
shores of, 340;
compared with Lake of Zürich, 441.
Genlis, Madame de, on neglected views, 224;
at Lausanne, 320;
visits Voltaire, 466.
Genthod, home of scientists, 269, 275.
Geology, 11, 12, 13, 14, 34, 35, 192, 222, 290, 348.
Gesner, Konrad von, 40.
Gex, Bonivard at, 127;
under France, 292, 303.
Gibbon, Edward, 43, 55;
on caste, 71;
secures a maid-servant, 90;
prestige of, 91;
characterized, 94;
finishes History, 96;
love for nature, 98;
requirements in a wife, 100;
converted to Catholicism, 74;
converted back to Orthodoxy, 77;
trip through Switzerland, 78;
engaged to Suzanne Curchod, 81, 82;
letter about the Neckers, 84;
fame of, 85;
wit of, 86;
aspect of, 88;
manner of life of, 89;
in Byron’s sonnet, 137;
mentioned by Rogers, 169;
reports political situation of Geneva to Lord Sheffield, 267;
and the Neckers, 280;
nickname of, 281;
dances the minuet, 318.
Giessbach, 452.
Glaciers, 187, 275, 357, 358, 365;
action of, studied, 372, 373, 374, 375, 456.
Glarus, stones from, 221, 427;
captured, 429.
Gloucester, Duke of, at Lausanne, 317.
Gobbera Pass, 444.
Gobelin tapestries, 49.
Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, 159, 263;
asks advice of De Saussure, 277, 307;
climbs La Dôle, 295-307;
helps Schiller, 451.
Goldau, 308, 309.
Goliath, 412, 418.
Gorner glacier, 351, 359;
grat, 364;
avalanche from, 367.
Göschenen Valley, 423.
Gothard, Saint (Gotthard), R. R., 22.
Goujon, Jean, sculpture of, at Geneva, 255.
Gourze, Tower of, 48.
Goutier, Captain, duel with Isaac Rousseau, 236.
Grammont, Le, 163;
ascent of, 166;
views from, 166, 167.
Grandson, Otho de, duel of, 60, 61;
castle of, 402;
battle of, 403-407.
Gräppelen, origin of name, 288.
Gray, Thomas, 308;
quoted, 453.
Gregory X, Pope, 58.
Grenoble, 30.
Grimsel-Pass, 373, 461.
Grindelwald, 458, 461.
Grisons, hotel-keepers of the, 370, 430.
Gross-Münster at Zürich, 438.
Grotte, La, bequeathed by Georges Deyverdun, 97;
tower of, 62.
Gruet, Jacques, tortured, 65.
Gruyères, shepherds of, 108.
Gstaad, name of, 287.
Guibert, Comte de, and Mlle. Necker, 281.
Guizot, 30.
Gurten, view from the, 412.
Hadloub, poem by, 437.
Hadow, David, loses life, 355.
Haller, Albrecht von, influence of, 52.
Handeck Fall, 461.
Hannibal, passage of the Alps, 382-399;
boats of, 433.
Hanno commands troops, 383.
Hapsburgs, the, 442.
Harold, Childe, 31.
Harpe, General F. C. de la, 160, 161;
Ile de la, 160.
Harvard University, Albert Gallatin at, 256;
like Geneva University, 258.
Hauk, Minnie, 446.
Haute-Champagne, 361.
Havergal, Frances Ridley, describes la Tête Noire, 371.
Heine, quoted, 11.
Heliogabalus, Emperor, 208.
Héloïse, La Nouvelle, 70, 150, 280.
Helvetia, Eye of, 47.
Helvetii, capital of the, 408.
Himalaya, mountains of the, 362.
Henry IV, 212.
Hercules, 438.
Hérens, Val d’, 350.
Hesse-Wartegg, Ernst von, 446.
Hessians as mercenaries, 69.
Hetch-Hetchy valley, 202.
Hobhouse, John Cam, with Lord Byron, 136.
Hockthorn, the, 455.
Hogg, Thomas Jefferson, calls Chillon ugly, 124.
Hohberghorn, the, 352.
Hoffmann, Jacques, 467.
Hohentwil, Castle of, 434.
Holmes, Oliver Wendell, 409.
Holroyd, Maria, surprised at Gibbon’s choice of Lausanne, 90.
Holroyd, J. B., see Sheffield, Lord.
Hospinianus, Rodolphus, 431.
Houghton, Lord, poem on English travellers, 87.
Huascaran, Mt., 33.
Hudson, Charles, attains top of Matterhorn, 355.
Hughes de Pierre, chronicle of, 403-406.
Hugo, Victor, autograph of, at Chillon, 135;
dislikes Geneva, 206, 266;
describes sunset, 308-310.
Huns (Saracens) incursion of, 48.
Huss, John, 435.
Hutten, Ulrich von, 442.
Hydro-aeroplane, on Lake Leman, 115, 116, 117.
Hypsometry, bases of Swiss, 65.
Icarus, feelings of, 118.
Ilanz, 430.
Illens, family of d’, 60.
Imfeld relief-maps, 364.
“Indergand, Albin,” 421.
Initiative and referendum, value of, 19, 20.
Insurance, Workmen’s Compulsory, 23.
Interlaken, 452.
Isle, Château de l’, 49.
Istria, Dora d’, criticizes Lord Byron, 149;
describes Lake Leman, 150-159.
Jaman, Dent de, 105, 107, 121.
Javelle, Etienne, describes a rock-fall, 186-191;
tells about the dragon of the Jorat, 219;
climbs Matterhorn, 356;
describes sunset from Matterhorn, 358.
Javernaz, 108.
Jews, prejudice against, 21, 124.
Johnson, Samuel, refuses to shake hands with a freethinker, 91.
Jolimont, stones of, 221.
Jorat, Heights of, 46, 47, 103, 127, 168;
Col de, 186;
dragon of, 219.
Joseph II, Emperor, secures Dr. Tissot place at Pavia, 314.
Jost, Haldebrandt, exorcises rockfall, 188.
Joux, L’Abbaye de, 301.
Jungfrau, 10, 11, 33, 108;
seen from Le Grammont, 166;
from Bern, 413, 452.
Jura, the, 46, 79, 93;
at night, 142;
inhabitants of, 163;
seen from Le Grammont, 166;
pine-clad heights of, 171;
forests of, 181;
from Geneva, 255;
torrents of, 280;
character of, 290;
Addison on, 293;
meaning of, 297;
stone from, 346;
profile of, 361;
view of, 401.
Kamor, the, 108.
Kant, Immanuel, 119;
description of Switzerland, 326;
on freedom, 433.
Kauffman, Angelica, paints portrait of Dr. Tissot, 314.
Keith, Marshal, welcomes Rousseau, 246.
Keller, Ferdinand, discoveries of, 432.
Kilauea, lava-flow on, 55.
Kinzig pass, Russians in the, 425.
Kipfen, gorge of, 352.
Kletsgerberg, 455.
Klöntalersee, the, 428.
Kóltsova-Masalskaya, the Princess Helena, criticizes
Lord Byron, 149;
describes Lake Leman, 150-159.
Köppen, Herr, plays the flute, 95.
Korsákof, defeated at Zürich, 427.
Kubel, Nicolas, climbs Matterhorn, 356.
Kunchinjunga, 33.
Kunoskephale, meaning of, 107.
Lake-dwellers, 16, 17, 34, 161, 432.
Lambert, Saint, silenced by Rousseau, 232.
Landeron, 403, 405.
Langenthal, linen-market of, 79.
Langern, M. de, 405.
Laupen, 411.
Lausanne, 8, 30, 34, 35, 38, 40, 45, 47;
cathedral of, 42, 57, 60, 64, 66;
university of, 40, 42, 43, 45;
name of, 53, 54;
stone of, 57;
subject to Bern, 63, 64;
size of, 69;
education at, 70;
people of, 75, 158;
emigrés at, 89;
forest of, 105;
situation of, 112;
memories of, 121;
mentioned by Rogers, 168;
life in, 182;
Rousseau at, 243;
Mathurin Cordier at, 251;
Addison at, 294;
seen from La Dôle, 296;
Goethe at, 308;
Tissot at, 311-321;
Bishop of, at Fribourg, 409;
hurt by Pilate, 448.
Lavey, spring discovered at, 187.
Law, William John, on Hannibal’s passage of the Alps, 382.
Lebrun, Madame, portrait of Madame de Staël, 285.
Leman, Lake, phenomena of, 109;
described by J. F. Cooper, 110, 111;
depth of, 112;
Fairy of, 114;
first steamboat on, 115;
described by Byron, 135;
in “Childe Harold,” 141-145;
described by “Dora d’Istria,” 150;
in winter, 156;
sunset on, 158;
islands in, 160;
rise of, 161;
winds of, 162;
described by Rogers, 169;
fascination of, 182;
birds of, 194;
origin of name, 208;
Madame de Staël on, 222;
Rousseau’s apostrophe to, 230;
Rousseau’s farewell to, 231;
made famous by Rousseau, 246;
described by Cooper, 262;
by Auguste de Sales, 263;
view from Aubonne, 288;
Addison on, 291;
fog on, 304;
from Madame de Crousaz’s, 321;
shores of, 340;
compared with Lake Zürich, 441.
Lessert, family of, own Château de Saint-Barthélemy, 51.
“Lettres de la Montagne,” Rousseau’s, cause hubbub in Geneva, 234.
Liène, crossing of the, 350.
Limmat, valley of the, 440.
Lion of Lucerne, 452.
Lis, Dent de, 108.
Lisbon, earthquake of, 110, 466.
Liubomirska, Princess, expelled from Lausanne, 316.
Lizards at Montreux, 152.
Loetschberg, tunnel of the, 354.
London, Lausanne preferred to, 90.
Lorraine, Prince Louis de, 315.
Louis le Débonnaire, 122.
Loup, Plains of La, 62.
Lovenex, Lake of, 163.
Lowerz, Lake of, 309.
Loys, Sebastien Isaac de, 462.
Lubbock, Sir John, quoted, 12, 13;
on beauty of high snow-fields, 364.
Lucerne, Lake, 34;
bandière of, 405;
horns of, 406;
lion of, 452.
Lucerne, City of, 78, 180.
Luternan, Auguste de, first bailiff of Chillon, 128.
Luther, Martin, 442.
Lutin, Salle, treasures of the, 260.
Lutry, 105, 119.
Lützelau, Island of, 422.
Maeterlinck, Maurice, 94, 126.
Magenhorn, the, 352.
Maintenon, Madame de, 213.
“Manfred,” quoted, 455, 457, 458, 459.
Mannes, Heinrich, founds Library, 436.
Mannesse, Rüdiger, song books of, 436.
Mansard, Francois, architect, 49.
Maracaibo, Lake, piles on, 16, 17.
Maria Theresa tries to engage Dr. Tissot, 314.
Marsens, Renée de, 48.
Martel, Pierre, visits Chamonix, 372.
Martel, S. A., quoted, 202.
Martigny, Roman remains at, 342-346;
return to, 370.
Martin, Tower of Saint, 120;
miracles of, 461.
Martinach, 307.
Masséna, 427.
Matterhorn, 350;
glimpse of, 354;
conquest of, 354-356;
form of, 357, 369.
Matter-Visp, the, 368.
Mattmark See, boulder near, 221.
Maurice, Saint, described by Rogers, 340;
mutiny at, 340-342.
Mauricius, leader of Thebaean legion, 341.
Maximilian, Emperor, enrolls legion, 340.
Mediterranean, the, 35, 46;
not seen from Mont Blanc, 273.
Meillerie, squall off, 139;
quarries of, 168, 320.
Mercier, 91.
Mer de Glace, movement of the, 373.
Meschersky, Prince, killed, 425.
Meyringen, 452.
Mex, estate of, 51.
Midi, Dent du, 38, 66, 105.
Milan, 123.
Milyutin, Nikolaï, quoted, 425, 426.
Mirage, on Lake Leman, 114.
Misaucus, Barons of, 287.
Mischabel, the, 361.
Mittaghorn, the, 352.
“Modern Painters,” Ruskin’s, quoted, 199.
Moléson, described and sung, 108.
Moncels, les Sept, 302, 303.
Mönch, the, seen from Bern, 413.
Monnetier, Château de, 295.
Mon Repos, at Lausanne, 317, 464.
Monrion, château of Voltaire, 463.
Montagny, Major Georges de Molin de, inherits La Grotte, 97.
Mont-Allègre, Shelley at, 139.
Montana, plateau of, 357.
Mont Blanc, 33, 45, 107, 111;
seen by Byron, 141;
Alpenglow on, 147;
seen from Le Grammont, 166;
described by Rogers, 171;
view of from Geneva, 216;
route to, 271;
curiosities of, 276;
first women to climb, 278;
Bride of, 279;
view from Nyon, 288;
seen from La Dôle, 296, 300;
Coleridge’s poem to, discussed, 327-332;
named, 372;
Thomas Moore on, 380.
Mont Blanc, Quai du (at Geneva), 196, 205.
Mont du Chat, 382.
Montet, boulder at, 221.
Montez, Col des, 370.
Montgolfier Brothers, balloon of, 118.
Monthey, boulders near, 222.
Montigl, origin of name, 287.
Montolieu, Madame de, 281, 321.
Montreux, 115, 121, 123;
shops of, 128, 151;
views from, 153;
the Riviera of Switzerland, 459;
Narcissus Festival, 467.
Montyon, Baron Auget de, at Lausanne, 317.
Moore, Thomas, poem on Mont Blanc, 380.
Morat, battle of, 63;
Lake of, 373, 405, 408.
Morcles, Dent de, 105, 187, 348.
Morge, the, 161, 348.
Morges, 289.
Moritz, Saint, 468.
Mozon, the River, 178.
Mulets, les Grands, 378;
les Petits, 274, 279.
Muotta, the, 425, 428.
Murray, John, Byron’s letter to, 140.
Muveran, le Grand, 45.
Naegueli, Jean François, takes possession of Lausanne, 64.
Napoleon, called a Genghis Khan, 95;
reviews army, 96;
mentioned by Rogers, 171, 288, 391;
foresight of, 417;
a myth, 451.
Napoleon III, 204.
Narcissus Festival, 467.
Naye, Rochers de, 105, 107.
Necker, Jacques, marries Mlle. Suzanne Curchod, 84;
Director of Treasury of France, 85;
purchases barony of Coppet, 280.
Nemi, Lake of, 34.
Nernier, 195;
la Pointe de, 110.
Neuburg, Lake of, 305.
Neuchâtel, lacustrians of, 18, 78;
meeting at, 373;
troops at, 403;
gift to, 407.
Neuchâtel, Lake of, 34, 178, 402;
ghost of, 217;
mountains of, 300.
Neuhaus, 456.
Ney, Marshal, 266.
Niagara Falls, 203, 377, 452, 462.
Nice, route to, 369.
Niège, Crêt de la, 178.
Niton, Pierre de, 223.
Noir Mont, 297, 299, 301, 303.
Noirmontier, Island of, 23.
North Sea, 35.
Novel, 162, 163.
Novi, battle of, 421.
Nozon, the, 47.
Nyon, origin of name, 287;
poem on, 288;
Addison at, 295, 307.
Oberalp Lake, 422, 423.
Oberhasli, Valley of, 459.
Oberland, Bernese, 306, 370, 460.
Oche, la Dent d’, 163.
Octodurus, old name of Martigny, 342;
captured by Romans, 343.
Oelenschlæger, Adam Gottlob, 285.
Oeningen, fossils of, 15.
Oeusannaz, 108.
Oex, Château d’, 455.
Olivier, Juste, Swiss poet, quoted, 67, 68, 108;
describes Chillon, 146;
describes the Rhône, 336-338;
advises Alpine climbing, 339;
describes les Vignerons, 467, 468.
Omar Khayyâm, 41, 408.
Omblière, fishing-bank of, 154.
Orbe, the River, 401.
Ordre du Collège, at Geneva, 257.
Orlof, Prince Gregory, at Lausanne, 316.
Orlova, Princess, tomb of, at Lausanne, 61.
Ortler, the, 361.
Ouchy, 36, 103;
Byron at, 138;
waves at, 162.
Oxford, expels Gibbon, 74.
Paccard, Dr. Michel, reaches top of Mont Blanc, 274;
unjust claims of, 275.
Pache, Samuel (Gibbon’s protégé), 90.
Paderewski, Ignaz, villa of, 446.
Palermo, 445.
Palmer, Sir Roundel, at Geneva, 248.
Panixer Pass, snow on, 429.
Paudèze, valley of the 104.
Paul, Grand Duke of Russia, at Lausanne, 317.
Pavilliard, Daniel, character of, 75;
discussions with, 77;
letter to Mrs. Porten, 78.
Pavilliard, Madame Carbonella, meanness of, 75.
Peacock, Thomas Love, Byron’s letter to, 139, 140.
Peilz, Tour de, 121;
Ilot de, 160.
Pélerin, Mont, 48.
Perrinists, enemies of Calvin, 252.
Perte du Rhône, La, 201.
Pestalozzi, Johann Heinrich, school of, 402.
Peter, Church of Saint, Geneva, 210.
Petrarca, 30.
Peyron, M. du, botanist, 463.
Pezay, Marquis de, apostrophe of, 419.
Pfyn, 351.
Pheidippides, 410.
Philippe II, threatens Geneva, 252.
Phillipin, Syndic of Geneva, pays fine, 253.
Pichard, Adrien, bridge of, 56.
Pictet de la Rive, François Jules, 269;
Raoul, 270.
Pierra-Portay, tombs at, 104.
Pierre, Count of Savoy, 121;
fortifies Chillon, 123;
at Chillon, 146.
Pierre Pointue, 378.
Pierre à Voire, view from, 348.
Pilate, legend of, 448.
Pilatus, Mont, 180;
sunset behind, 308;
proverb about, 447.
Pitt, William, might have married Mademoiselle Necker, 281.
Piz Corvatsch, 444.
Piz della Marga, 444.
Piz Grialetsch, 444.
Piz Güz, 444.
Piz Kesch, 444.
Piz Michel, 444.
Piz Vadret, 444.
Plainpalais, cemetery of, 204;
origin of name, 209.
Planches, Les, 155.
Plater, Count Broel-, founds Polish Museum, 442.
Po, plain of the, 393.
Pococke-Windham party discovers Chamonix, 372.
Polybius, on Hannibal, 382;
describes passage of Alps, 383-393.
Polytechnikum at Zürich, view from, 437.
Pomponius, Titus, altar of, 346.
Pont, Le, village of, 298, 299, 301.
Pontareuse, 403.
Pontresina, origin of name, 434.
Pontverre, M. de, attempts to convert Rousseau, 239.
Pope’s Guard, 69.
Pordoi, new road of the, 444.
Potocka, Countess, patient of Dr. Tissot, 315;
head-dress of, 316.
Poudrière, Academie de la, 80.
Prangins, Château de, 288.
Pregny, 269.
Printemps, Société du, 80.
Promenthoux, torrent of, 288.
“Punica,” quoted, 393.
Purry, David de, gift to Neuchâtel, 407.
Pyremont, 200.
Quebec, compared in latitude to Lausanne, 112.
Racine, 263.
Randa, 353.
Ranz des Vaches, 467.
Rapperswyl, 442.
Rasse, La, overwhelmed, 189;
procession at, 191.
Ravoire, inscription at, 346.
Raynal, Abbé, 91.
Redcliffe, Lady Henrietta Stratford de, 61.
Redon, Torrent of, 193.
Reichenbach, Falls of the, 459.
René, Duke of Lorraine, 411.
Reuss, the, 423.
Rheinfelden, battle of, 213.
Rhentelin, archers of, 403.
Rhine, the, 47, 178, 192;
falls of, 435.
Rhône, the, 30, 45, 47;
current of, 109, 138, 141, 144, 161;
les troublons du, 113;
delta of, 167;
la correction du, 168;
valley of, 186;
blocked, 188, 191;
junction with the Arve, 199, 204;
damming of, 200;
La Perte du, 201;
boulder near, 222;
view of, 264;
guided by Providence, 294;
described by Juste Olivier, 336-338;
leap from the Alps, 340;
as a robber, 348;
view of, 351;
might of, 351;
Les Iles du, 337;
colour of, 377;
crossed by Hannibal, 383-387;
Hannibal’s boats, 433;
refuses Pilate’s body, 448.
Riddes, 348.
Rigi-Kulm, 130, 132;
Goethe at, 308, 450.
Rimpfischhorn, the, 369.
Rinegg, origin of, 287.
Ripaille, hermitage of, 180.
Riponne, Place de la, 40.
Ritz, Raphael, discovers Roman remains, 344.
Rivers, names of, 54.
Rocca, Albert de, marries Madame de Staël, 282.
Roche, Jean, prints Calvin’s “Institution,” 253.
Rochemont, Sieur de, punished at Geneva, 259.
Rochers Rouges, 273.
Rock-falls, 185, 193, 291.
Rodolphe, Duke of Hapsburg, invades Vaud, 123.
Rogers, Samuel, on Lake Leman, 169;
on Rousseau, 238;
on the Hospice of St. Bernard, 395-399.
Rohan, Duke of, buried at Geneva, 213.
Rolle, 289;
road of the, 444;
waters of, 312.
Rome, Gibbon’s journey to, 83.
Ropraz, Château de, 48.
Roquemaure, 382.
Rosa, Monte, 359.
Rosenberg, Lieutenant-General, bivouacs on Alps, 422;
drives French, 423;
protects the Russian rear, 425;
master-stroke of, 429.
Roset, Michel, reads Ordre du Collège at Geneva, 257.
Rossberg, 309.
Rosstock, the, 425.
Rothhorn, the, 352, 361.
Rothschild, Château, 269.
Rousseau, Isaac, character of, 235;
duel with Captain Goutier, 236.
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, influence of, 52, 119;
memories of, 121, 135;
mentioned in Byron’s sonnet, 137;
criticized by “Dora d’Istria,” 149;
“Fraternité cup,” invented by, 183;
Ile Rousseau, 197;
lover of Nature, 222, 228;
invitation to Switzerland, 225;
description of sunrise, 227, 466;
recipe for mountain-climbing, 229;
apostrophe to Lake Leman, 230;
farewell, 231;
silences Saint-Lambert, 232;
criticizes Voltaire, 233;
books burned, 234;
birth-place marked, 235;
education of, 236;
converted to Catholicism, 239;
writes “Narcisse,” 242;
at Vevey, 245;
at Geneva, 245;
driven out of Neuchâtel, 246;
describes the Escalade, 266;
influence of, 282;
track of, 462;
trips with Comte d’Escheray, 463.
Rousses, Lac des, 299, 302, 303.
Route des Alpes, La, 369.
Rubli, Le, 108;
supernatural beings of, 221.
Rumine, Palais de, 40, 42.
Ruskin, John, describes the Rhône, 199.
Saanen, fame of, 455, 456.
Saas-Fee, 368, 369.
Saasgrund, 368.
Saastal, 368.
Saint-Barthélemy, glen of, 186, 188, 189.
Saint-Bernard, rocks from, 65, 382;
Rogers’s poem on, 395-399.
Sainte-Beuve, Ch. Aug. describes life at Coppet, 282.
Saint-Cergue, 295, 306, 307.
Saint-Gingolph, 154, 161, 162.
Saint-Gingoux, Byron and Shelley at, 140.
Saint-Lambert, silenced by Rousseau, 232.
Saint-Laurent, Place de, view of Lausanne Cathedral from, 66.
Saint-Leonard, 357.
Saint-Maurice, curé of, 188;
ancestry of, 340, 382, 391.
Saint Michel de la Cluse, Abbey of, 371.
Saint-Niklaus, 353.
Saint-Sulpice, Grove of, 95, 96, 289.
Saint-Theodore, founds Abbey of Saint-Maurice, 341.
Salanfe, Herdsmen of, 219.
Sales, Auguste de, describes view of Lake Leman, 263.
Sales, Saint Francis de, life of, 263.
Salève, the, 261, 264.
Sallanches, Canons of, 371, 372.
Samson, 438.
Sand, George, at Chillon, 135.
San Francisco, vandals of, 202.
Saracens, remains of, 434.
Sarine, River, 60, 409;
described by Byron, 455.
Sarnen, 452.
Sarraz, La, 178.
Satan, works of, 221.
Saules, Sentier des, 203.
Saulnier, see Sonier.
Saussure, Horace-Bénédict de, measures Leman tides, 110;
sketch of, 271, 272;
describes sunset, 276;
receives visit from Goethe, 277, 307;
visits Chamonix, 372.
Sauvebelin, forest of, 105.
Savoy, mountains of, 53;
conquered by Bern, 128;
peaks of, 156;
Forbes’s Travels in, 222;
seen from Geneva, 255;
French invade, 267;
becomes part of France, 268;
in haze, 289;
seen by Goethe, 296;
Alps of, 339;
glaciers of, 372.
Saxon, Castle of, 348.
Scala, Princes della, 205.
Schächental, the, 425, 430.
Schadau, Castle of, 456.
Scheffel, Viktor von, 434.
Schiller, Friedrich von, quoted, 218;
compared to Goethe, 263;
never in Switzerland, 451.
Schlegel, August W. von, at Coppet, 281;
describes Madame de Staël, 284.
Schneffer, Counsellor, letter to, 284.
Schwarzhorn, the, 352.
Schwyz, bandières of, 405, 425, 428.
Sclopis, Count Federigo, arbitrator of Alabama claims, 248.
Scott, Sir Walter, never in the Alps, 173;
quotation from “Anne of Geierstein,” 173-176.
Seattle, compared in latitude to Lausanne, 112.
Sécheron, Shelley at, 138.
Seduni, hold pass, 342.
Seedorf, 425.
Seiches, les, explanation of, 109, 110.
Selli, gorge of, 353.
Serfs, French, 302.
Servetus, 41;
burnt at stake, 65, 246.
Seti, Gregorio, describes Geneva, 207;
on St. Peter’s Church, 211, 213;
on fishing, 214.
Setirg Dörfli, 444.
Sévery, Salamon de Charrière de, 51.
Sévery, Madame de, letters of, 182;
treated by Dr. Tissot, 313.
Sheffield, Lord, 84, 86;
receives letter from Gibbon, 267.
Shelley, Percy Bysshe, at Chillon, 135;
at Sécheron, 138;
poem “Mont Blanc” discussed, 328-336.
Siebenthal, 405.
Sierre, 357, 352.
Signal, the (Lausanne), 44, 53, 317.
Silberhorn, the, 108.
Silius Italicus, poem on Hannibal, 393-394.
Sils, 444.
Simmenthal, 456.
Simplon, tunnel of, 45, 354.
Sion, Bishop of, exorcises a rock-fall, 188.
Sion, three-legged horse of, 217;
Goethe at, 308;
castles at, 346.
Soleure, 78, 405;
trophy at, 407.
Solothurn, mountains of, 300, 305;
martyrdoms at, 341.
Sonchaud, 155.
Sonchaux, Mont, 122.
Sonier, Antoine, directs “Grande Eschole” at Geneva, 250;
heckled by the Council, 251.
Splügen Pass, 430.
Spyri, Johanna, 468.
Staël, Madame de, mentioned in Byron’s sonnet, 137;
mentioned by Rogers, 169;
cares little for scenery, 222;
at Coppet, 280-286.
Staël-Holstein, Baron de, marries Mlle. Necker, 281.
Stalden, 352, 368.
Stamepfli, Jacob, arbitrator of Geneva claims, 248.
Staubbach, the, 200, 452;
described by Byron, 456, 457.
Stockalper, Kaspar, builds canal, 166.
Stockhorn, the, 108.
Stoves, tiled, 8, 39.
Strassbourg, mourning in, 417.
Sudois, Le, wind on Lake Leman, 195.
Sugana, Val, 444.
Sully, Duc de, scheme of, 213.
Suvórof, Field-Marshal, passage of the Alps, 420-430.
Swiss, characteristics of the, 47;
freedom of, 167.
Symonds, John Addington, 444.
Talent, the River, 401.
Tanay, lake of, 163.
“Tancrède,” played at Coppet, 283.
Tartarin de Tarascon, 30;
at Chillon, 128, 129.
Täsch, village of, 353.
Täschhorn, the, 352.
Taugwalder, guides, 355.
Taurus, Mont, fall of, 187.
Tavernier, J. Baptiste, builds château at Aubonne, 289;
on Switzerland, 223, 224.
Tell, William, a myth, 129, 451.
Tendre, Mont, 49, 178.
Tenevière, described, 161.
Tennyson, Alfred, quoted, 117;
on Monte Rosa, 367.
Territe, 121.
Tête Noire, described, 370, 371.
Tevent, Hill of, 352.
Thebaean Legion, 340, 341.
Theodorus, Bishop, 347.
Théodule glacier, 359;
pass, 347.
Thièle River, 401.
Thonon, wines of, 182;
beauty of, 183.
Thun, 460.
Thun, Lake of, 413, 456.
Ticknor, George, at Coppet, 281.
Tinère, torrent of, 122.
Tines, Passage des, 375.
Tissot, Dr. Auguste, 91;
sketch of, 311-321;
house of, 464.
Toepfer, R., novels of, 415, 450.
Toggenburg, Count Krafto von, 436.
Tolstoï, Count L. N., 340, 418.
Totensee, der, 461.
Touguës, Port de, 195.
Tourbillon, Château de, 348.
Trebbia, battle of the, 421.
Treytorrens, M. de, lover of music, 244.
Trient, les Gorges du, 307, 370.
Trifthorn, the, 352.
Trilex, 295.
Triphon, Saint, once an island, 104.
Trois Arbres, Les, expedition to, 264.
Troublons du Rhône, les, 113.
Trümmelbach, 200.
Tunnels, 354.
Turin, Rousseau at, 242.
Turner, J. F. T., depicts Switzerland, 168.
Turretini, engineer of Geneva, 199.
Tyndall, Professor, conquers the Weisshorn, 353-356.
Typhoid fever at Geneva, 113.
Tyrol, trip to the, 443.
Ufenau, Island of, 442.
Unterwald, 405.
Urner Loch, 423, 462.
Urserental, 374.
Ury, trumpet of, 406.
Usteri, Léonard, poem by, 230.
Valais, giants of le, 361.
Valeria, Castle of, 349.
Vapours, origin of, 230.
Vaud, Pays de, 68;
aristocracy of, 71;
women of, 152;
landscapes of, 230;
meaning of, 287;
under Bern, 291.
Vaumarcus, 406.
Venezuela, 16, 17.
Venice, beginnings of, 17.
Venoge, the River, course of, 178.
Veragri, hold pass, 342.
Veraye, torrent of, 122.
Vergil, 393.
Vernes, sermon of Pastor, 467.
Vernet, Jacob, writes Rousseau, 234.
Vernex, 116, 118, 121;
gulf of, 157.
Verraux, Rochers de, 105.
Versonnex, François de, endows High School at Geneva, 249.
Vevey, 103, 119;
misfortunes of, 120;
possesses Chillon, 128;
mentioned by Rogers, 169;
from La Dôle, 304, 344.
Vevey-La-Tour, 120.
Veveyse, torrent of, 123.
Veytaux, 155, 156, 157.
Victor Amédée of Savoy, 181.
Victor, Priory of Saint, 126.
Vienna, Pilate at, 448.
Vienne, 382.
Views, mountain, 44, 53.
Vignerons, Abbaye des, 467.
Villeneuve, 147, 161, 168, 336.
Villette, 119.
Vinet, Alexandre Rodolphe, 41, 42.
Viollet-le-Duc, 42.
Viret, Pierre, 40;
wins debate, 64.
Viso Alps, 361.
Visp, the, 350, 352, 353.
Voirons, the, view from, 261.
Voltaire, 49, 85, 119;
mentioned in Byron’s sonnet, 137, 197;
neglects view, 222;
criticized by Rousseau, 233;
at Ferney, 282;
example of, 460;
theatrical ventures of, 463;
letters from, 464;
dress of, 465;
prayer of, 466;
mocks Pastor Vernes, 467.
Vouvry, 166.
Vuache, Mont, 305.
Vuarnen, Château de, 295.
Vully, 403.
Waalwyck, Madame de, gives a concert, 94.
Wahlenstadt, 287.
Waite, Morrison, at Geneva, 248.
Waldmann, improves Cathedral of Zürich, 439.
Walker, Miss Lucy, climbs Matterhorn, 356.
Walla, Count, 123.
Wallensee, 427.
Wallisi, hold the Dranse, 342;
put to flight, 343.
Warens, Madame de, 72;
robs her husband, 239;
gets money from Rousseau, 245, 462.
War Museum at Lucerne, 446.
Waserus, Gaspar, 431.
Washington, 352.
Weather proverbs, 102.
Weisshorn, view of the, 351, 361.
Welch, origin of, 287.
Wengern Mountain, 457.
Werner, Zacharias, at Coppet, 284;
letter to Counsellor Schneffer, 284, 285;
characteristics of, 285.
Wetterhorn, 457.
Wetzikon, Elizabeth von, 437.
Wetzweil, 221.
Weyrother, Colonel, a poor guide, 422.
Whymper, Edward, climbs the Matterhorn, 355.
Winterthür, 39.
Wordsworth, quoted, 3.
Würtemburg, Duchess of, appears at a picnic, 95.
Yolande, Duchess of Savoy, 62.
Yverdon, 35, 78, 401.
Yvoire, Point d’, 193;
beauty of, 194, 195.
Zahn, Ernst, 421.
Zähringen, Berthold V, of, 41.
Zähringen, Conrad, Duke of, 402.
Zähringen-Kyburg, Castle of, 460.
“Zaïre,” 464;
played at Coppet, 283.
Zauchet, giant ox of, 217.
Zeppelin dirigible, 45.
Zermatt, blue-haired donkey of, 217;
views from, 354.
Zermettje, châlets of, 353.
Zug, Lake of, 309.
Zürich, politics in, 21, 23, 78;
receives appeal from Geneva, 267;
martyrdoms at, 341;
bandières of, 404;
visit to, 414-420, 431-443;
battle of, 419, 440.
Zürich, Lake of, 150;
colour of, 441.
Zwingli, 435, 442.
Transcriber’s Note:
Author’s spelling and punctuation retained.
End of Project Gutenberg's The Spell of Switzerland, by Nathan Haskell Dole