medium-sized family, and is adapted to either a village or a more rural
location. A 25 × 100-feet lot will contain such a house, besides the
needed side alleyway to the rear. Those contemplating the erection of
low-priced, tasteful cottages in duplication, either for selling, or
by coöperation as in Building Associations, will find this plan suited
to their wants.... EXTERIOR, (fig. 39).—The front presents a graceful,
trim, outline, with a neat and pleasant arrangement of openings. The
Porch fits in an angle, with its steps projecting beyond the principal
building, providing an appropriate entrance to the house. The large
Bay-window is the most imposing feature of the front, is expressive of
comfort and cheerfulness, and gives a good appearance and character to
the whole building. The principal cornices are neatly trussed, and have
such “spread” as gives a finished and bold appearance to the roofs.
It has such proportions and genteel style, that if near a more formidable
or costly residence, it would not disgrace it.... CELLAR, (fig.
40.)—Hight 7 ft. Its outlines correspond with the ground-plans of the
principal building; it is three feet below the general surface of the
ground, and four feet above, and has an outside entrance door, three
good sized cellar windows, two of which are in the front, and one at
the side, contiguous to the coal-bin. It is accessible from the first
story by a plain stairway. If desirable at any time, a pleasant basement
room may be finished in the front part, at a small cost.... FIRST STORY,
(fig. 41).—Hight of ceilings, 9½ feet. It is divided into three rooms
of nearly equal size, with a Hall and two Closets. The Bay-window adds
considerable to its area, making it the largest and pleasantest room.
The Dining-room adjoins the parlor, and may be used with it as occasion
requires by opening the folding doors. Each of these rooms has neat
marble mantles, and opens into the front hall. The Kitchen connects with
the dining-room, and is provided with a pantry, pump, sink, two windows,
and an outside door leading to the rear yard. When houses are built on
single village lots, it is usual to arrange for one “blank” side, as
in this plan, but where more ground is allowed, it is desirable that
openings should be made for at least one window in each story of this
side, as they would add to the cheerfulness of the interior, and give
a better appearance to the outside. Two windows are thus indicated by
dotted lines, one for the dining-room, and one for the interior chamber,
though the latter is lighted from the roof, as noted. It may be advisable
even to put two other windows on this side of the house, for the outside
general good appearance, or blind-windows may be put in at small expense,
for the same purpose.... SECOND STORY, (fig. 42).—Ceilings 8 feet high.
The divisions are very simple, making four rooms, three closets, a
stairway, and passage leading to each room.... CONSTRUCTION.—Reference
is had in this plan to what is known in the trade as “piece-lumber”—the
joists, wall-strips, boards, etc., being generally in lengths of 13 feet
each. There is great economy in being able to use such standard lumber,
without cutting to waste. Figure 43 shows how a neat, cosey cottage-frame
may be cheaply constructed almost wholly of such 13-feet materials. But
there is a decided preference for full chamber ceilings, and as the
difference in cost would not exceed $60, it is best to make the house
_two full stories high_. The principal frame is of 3-inch timber, with
studding of 2 × 3 inch. This thickness of the frame-work secures some
220 feet more interior space to the rooms, than in the use of 4-inch
timber, besides saving one-fourth of its quantity and cost. Ordinary 1¼
× 10-inch spruce plank are used for the frame-work, for the floors and
ceilings. For the beams they are reduced to the depth of eight inches,
and the 2-inch strips sawed off are used for shingling-lath. For the
ceiling-frame of the second story, they are simply sawed through the
middle, leaving each half five inches deep, and are all placed 16 inches
apart from centers. One row of cross-bridging is put through the center
of each tier of beams, and the center of the ceiling-strips are secured
by hangers from the rafters. The Rafters are 2 × 4 inches, framed to rest
on the principal plates, where they are connected with the ceiling-strips
by spikes, preventing any settling or spreading of the roof. The Roof of
the main wing is constructed with double pitch, corresponding with that
of the main roof. The principal roofs are finished with shingles, and
has improved gutters, described in Design V. The porch and bay-window
roofs are covered with tin laid on smooth boarding.—The _rake_ or _pitch_
of roofs has much to do in giving character and finish to buildings.
For ordinary roofs, when shingles or slate are used, the rise should be
_one-third_ the width of the building, as in this case, the rise is 4⅓
feet, for the width of 13 feet. This pitch is very pleasant to the eye,
and easy of construction. In larger buildings, it is often desirable to
secure more space or head-room in the attic, when the rise should be
_one-half_ the width of the building. We would never go _between_ these
two angles in search of a roof-line that would gratify good taste, or
comport with any style, but deviations above one-half or below one-third
may be made, as circumstances indicate.—Circular openings covered with
blinds, in each gable, give free air circulation between the ceilings
and roof. Every dwelling should have some way of readily reaching the
roof from the inside to clean the gutters, repair the roof or chimneys,
and in case of fire in the house or in the neighborhood. An opening is
made in the ceiling of the middle chamber (fig. 42) over and just inside
the door, and thence through the roof. This is neatly boarded around
its sides, forming a “well,” and is covered at the top with a _sash_,
sloping with the roof, hung so as to be easily opened and closed by a
cord from the inside. This provides for light, ventilation, and a scuttle
in combination. A sash, hung on center pins to revolve, over the door of
this room, transmits light from the skylight to the second-story passage
and stairway, and supplies ventilation.... The mason’s work is complete
and substantial in every part. The foundation walls, piers, and chimneys,
are of hard brick and mortar; the plastering is two coats of brown mortar
and a hard finish.... HEATING.—Only two fires are required at any time
to make the principal rooms of this house comfortable. The parlor, and
chamber immediately above it, are warmed through a heater placed in a
parlor fire-place. The dining-room has a radiator fitted in the opening
of the mantel, and connected by 5-inch pipes through the fire-place back
with the kitchen stove.
ESTIMATE of materials and cost:
40 yards excavation, at 20c. per yard. $ 8.00
12,000 brick, furnished and laid, at $12 per M. 144.00
32 ft. stone steps and coping, at 20c. per ft. 6.40
450 yards plastering, at 30c. per yard. 135.00
1,969 ft. of timber, at $15 per M. 29.53
1 sill, 4 × 8 in. 39 ft. long.
1 girt, 4 × 8 in. 13 ft. long.
1 plate, 3 × 4 in. 104 ft. long.
116 studding, 2 × 3 in. 10 ft. long.
6 posts, 3 × 8 in. 20 ft. long.
1 tie, 3 × 6 in 104 ft. long.
1 sill, 2 × 4 in. 91 ft. long.
153 studding, 2 × 3 in. 9 ft. long.
70 planks for beams and ceilings, at 25c. each. 17.50
55 rafters, 2 × 4 × 13, at 13c. each. 7.15
208 siding, 10 inch, at 26c. each. 54.08
100 lbs. tarred felting, at 3c. per lb. 3.00
Materials in cornices, water-table, and corner-boards. 20.00
165 shingling-lath, at 6c. each. 9.90
28 bunches shingles, at $1.50 per bunch. 42.00
200 ft. gutters, leaders and roofs, at 8c. per ft. 16.00
96 flooring, at 26c. each. 24.96
Stairs, complete, $40; porch and stoops, complete, $40. 80.00
Bay-window, complete. 60.00
8 windows, complete, at $10 each. 80.00
3 cellar windows, complete, at $6 each. 18.00
15 doors, complete, at $8 each. 120.00
Closets and shelving, $8; mantels, $30. 38.00
Pump and sink, $18; nails, $15. 33.00
Painting, $60; cartage, $13.48. 73.48
Carpenter’s labor, not included above. 80.00
---------
Total cost, complete. $1,100.00
[Illustration: Fig. 39.—ELEVATION OF FRONT OF HOUSE.]
[Illustration: Fig. 40.—PLAN OF CELLAR.]
[Illustration: Fig. 41.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.]
[Illustration: Fig. 42.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.]
[Illustration: Fig. 43.—MANNER OF FRAMING.]
DESIGN XI.
A HOUSE COSTING $1,600.
This plan is for a comfortable and genteel dwelling, suited to almost any
location, and for the accommodation of an averaged-sized family. Upwards
of twenty years’ experience in planning and building has taught me that
it is not difficult to design either as to Style, Room, or Cost, when
the owners have means sufficient to gratify their individual tastes, and
no special care is required to save expense. But it is quite another
matter to provide plans for the great mass of people who, through habit
or necessity, put everything to the test of economy, and to whom every
inch of room, or foot of material, is an important consideration. In
designing and projecting such work, theories avail little; practical
experience must then be the chief guide.... Conventional modes of living
have established a system of household arrangement and economy requiring
for every home of even moderate refinement, a house with a front hall, a
parlor, a dining-room, and a kitchen on the first floor, and a liberal
suite of chambers in a second story. Our plan herewith, though only 20
by 30 feet, provides for all the above. If built on an ordinary 25-feet
village lot, it will allow a needed passage-way on one side. In rapidly
filling up, crowded localities, four persons owning single lots, making
a frontage of 100 feet, can arrange together and build five houses on
this plan for about the cost of erecting four detached houses. The
fifth house may be rented or sold for the benefit of the four owners.
In such cases, a hall should be finished in the basement, with an
entrance in front similar to the one shown in the rear in fig. 45....
The FRONT ELEVATION is made up of simple parts, in a neat arrangement.
The Bay-window indicates refinement, and adds largely to the area or
room of the parlor.... The CELLAR walls are of hard brick, are 8 inches
thick, 7 feet high, and show at least 3 feet above ground. For health’s
sake alone, as well as for a better appearance, and for convenience, if
the basement should ever be desired finished off in rooms, which can be
done at any time with little expense, it is best to always place the
first floor well up from the ground. In very cold localities, frost
can be kept out of the basement by banking up in winter, or better by
laying the brick walls with an opening up through the center, extending
bricks across the opening at frequent intervals to secure firmness.
This central air-chamber promotes health, warmth, and dryness in the
basement or cellar. One foot of the soil taken from the excavation for
the cellar should be used in grading around the house, to secure the
flow of water _away_ from it, and still leave the walls three feet or
more above the ground.... FIRST STORY, (fig. 46).—Hight of ceiling, 9½
feet. The divisions embrace three rooms, a hall, and two closets. Double
doors are provided for the front entrance, and between the parlor and
dining-room, and marble mantles and shelves in the principal rooms.
A movable “Dresser” having drawers and shelving with small doors, is
indicated for the dining-room. This room may be heated by leading a
pipe from the kitchen stove to a drum and back into the chimney, or up
through the chamber above to warm that somewhat. A “Fireplace heater” in
the parlor will warm the chamber above.... SECOND STORY, (fig. 47.)—The
hight of the ceilings are 8½ feet. There are four chambers, with closets
to each, and a small hall. The head-room over the main stairs extends
beneath the closet to the inner edge of the shelf shown—the floor in
these parts being angled to suit the pitch of the stairs.... REMARKS
on construction.—An end section of the “Novelty siding” is shown in
fig. 48. This is of 10-inch boards, 1 inch thick, cut as shown in the
engraving. The groove in the center gives it the appearance of narrow
clapboards; the lap of about an inch closes tightly, and the thick boards
not only add to the warmth, but also to the strength. A house covered
with this will vibrate very little in the most windy situations, and be
firmer than one covered with thin siding having much heavier timber.
Where planing mills are accessible, it is little more expensive than the
dressed half-inch boarding, and the appearance is quite as pretty. In
this vicinity it is customary to purchase a lot of pretty good quality
merchantable pine boards, select the best and clearest of knots for
siding, and use the rest for flooring where knots are not objectionable
when to be covered with carpeting. The smaller and firm knots in the
siding used, are readily covered with paint, if first primed with a
little solution of shellac in alcohol. A section of the wall is shown
in fig. 49. The studding, 2 × 4, makes a space of four inches between
the siding and plastering. Tarred paper, or what is termed roofing-felt,
is procured in rolls 32 inches wide. A saw run through the roll cuts it
into 16-inch strips. The studs being set 16 inches apart from center
to center, leaves the clear space of 14 inches. The strips of felt are
turned up an inch on each edge, and these turned edges are held against
the studs by lath firmly up and down, so as to hold the sheets midway
between the plastering and siding. This leaves _two_ air-chambers, both
good non-conductors of heat. Mice or insects will not eat or go through
this material. It is impervious to currents of air, and the whole is as
warm as if filled in with brick. The cost is very small, and, as will be
readily seen, it is much warmer than when the felt is put on directly
under the boards, leaving only one air-chamber, and that a wide one....
In all house-plans, we advise putting in all the closets possible; they
are always convenient, even a foot square “cubby-hole” in the side
of a chimney is a handy place. In planning a house, after making the
size as large as one’s means will allow, the “better half” should be
consulted as to the advisability of making this or that room a little
smaller by cutting off a few inches here and there to enlarge a pantry
or closet.... We always advise to put in an extra bell or two, and one
or more speaking-tubes, to connect the upper and lower rooms. The cost
is but trifling, if they are put in when building. A hundred feet of
speaking-tube will cost but $2 or $3; the carpenter can insert it behind
the lath, running it from one room to another in a few minutes, and it
will save many steps, and much calling through the halls, especially when
the mother happens to be an invalid, and restrained to a chamber.... In
arranging sink, table, dish-pantry, etc., with reference to dining-room
and kitchen, always plan to save steps. A distance of 10 feet extra,
traveled over each way, say 20 times a day, in handling food and dishes,
amounts to 28 miles extra walking every year, all of which may be saved
by a slight change in arrangement. These are small matters, but these
have much to do in making a “convenient house.”
COST.—The following ESTIMATES of cost in detail will give an idea of the
general character of the work. The prices given are for materials in
the vicinity of New York. Carpenters wages are reckoned at $2 per day;
mason’s work, $2.50 per day; and painters, $3 per day:
Excavation, 2½ ft. deep, at 20c. per yard. $11.00
12,000 hard brick, furnished and laid, at $12 per M. 144.00
28 ft. stone steps, at 40c. per ft. 11.20
16 ft. stone sills, at 30c. per ft. 4.80
488 yards lath and plastering, at 30c. 144.90
2,000 ft. timber, at $15 per M. 30.00
2 sills, 4 × 7 in. 20 ft. long.
2 sills, 4 × 7 in. 30 ft. long.
4 posts, 4 × 7 in. 20 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 20 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 30 ft. long.
2 ties, 4 × 6 in. 26 ft. long.
2 ties, 4 × 6 in. 30 ft. long.
2 girders, 4 × 8 in. 15 ft. long.
2 stringers, 3 × 8 in. 20 ft. long.
30 beams, 3 × 8 in. 20 ft. long.
32 rafters, 3 × 4 in. 12 feet long, at 18c. 5.76
300 wall-strips, 2 × 4 in. 13 ft. long, at 11c. 33.00
200 novelty siding-boards, 9½ in., at 30c. 60.00
160 lbs. tarred paper, at 5c. 8.00
100 hemlock boards, 10 in., at 18c. 18.00
100 ft. main cornice, at 40c. 40.00
1 bay-window, complete, with blinds, labor included. 60.00
1½ stoops, complete, labor included. 70.00
8 windows, with blinds, at $16. 128.00
4 windows, with blinds, at $8. 32.00
8½ squares of tin roofing, at $7. 59.50
100 ft. gutters and leaders, at 10c. 10.00
150 flooring-plank, tongued and grooved, at 28c. 42.00
Stairs, main and cellar, $60; base-boards, shelving,
etc. $30. 90.00
4 mantels (1 full marble, and 3 marble shelves on
trusses of plaster). 50.00
21 doors, complete, labor included, $158; 350 lbs. nails,
at 5c., $17.50. 175.50
Painting, two coats. 80.00
Carpenter’s labor, not included in windows, doors,
and porches, about $200.00; cartage, average
one mile, $30.00. 230.00
Allow for extras, cistern, pump, sink, etc., etc. 62.34
---------
Total. $1,600.00
Prices vary in different localities, somewhat, but when higher in some
particulars, they will generally be lower in others, so that the whole
cost will not be greatly different over a considerable extent of country.
There are many items that can be cut down in the above estimate, where
great economy is needful. For example, substitute wood for stone steps
and sills; omit the blinds and bay-windows, use cheaper doors, pine-stair
railing and newel, instead of walnut, etc. Our estimate is for a pretty,
complete, tasteful house.
[Illustration: Fig. 44.—FRONT ELEVATION OF HOUSE.]
[Illustration: Fig. 45.—PLAN OF CELLAR.]
[Illustration: Fig. 46.—PLAN OF FIRST STORY.]
[Illustration: Fig. 47.—PLAN OF SECOND STORY.]
[Illustration: Fig. 48.—“NOVELTY SIDING.”]
[Illustration: Fig. 49.—SECTION OF OUTSIDE WALL.]
DESIGN XII.
A HOUSE COSTING $1,700.
The plans here given are similar in many respects to Design XI., and
are somewhat larger, but can be built for very nearly the same cost....
ELEVATION, (fig. 50).—The front is irregular, having an angle, which
narrows the parts, supplies more vertical lines, and adds to their
length comparatively. These are important features, imparting a graceful
appearance, and influencing the entire character of the house.... The
angle affords ample room for the piazza, which can be built for much
less cost than when its three sides are exposed. The next attractive
features of the front are the bay-windows below, and double windows
above, with the balustrade and hood so proportioned and arranged that
they conform with each other with pleasing effect.... CELLAR, (fig.
51).—The Foundation Walls are of hard brick laid in mortar, 8 inches
thick, and 7 feet high. In localities where the foundation rests on loose
sand, care should be taken to provide a bedding, laid 4 inches below
the cellar bottom, 16 inches wide, of brick, or better, of large flat
stones. Still greater care should be bestowed on the bedding for the
chimneys and girder supports, for they sustain the greatest proportionate
weight, and any settlement of these parts will cause a depression of
the floors, disarranging the whole house, and become an immediate and
continuous source of anxiety and expense. The Area in the rear is built
of hard brick and mortar, with blue-stone steps and coping. Blue-stone
sills are provided for each of the cellar windows.... FIRST STORY, (fig.
52.)—The interior arrangement of the plan will be appreciated as making
the best possible use of the room. The Front Hall is wider than is usual
in houses of this character. The Stairs are arranged with the “quarter
circle” about midway of their hight, which brings the niche down where
it becomes an important feature of the hall. The three principal rooms,
the parlor, dining-room, and kitchen, can be entered from the hall. The
latter two rooms have doors leading to the lobby. The Lobby is built of
4½-inch tongued and grooved ceiling-boards, with sashes made to swing.
A Shelf, 1½ feet high, and another just above the sash, give sufficient
frame-work to fasten the center of the boarding; the ends are nailed
to the sill and plate; these shelves will be found useful for many
purposes. Attached to the lobby, and built with it, is a good-sized
Pantry (_P_), for the dining-room. The Kitchen is provided with a closet
at the side of the chimney, a sink, with small closet underneath, and
a direct communication to the cellar stairs under the hall stairs. The
window in the side of the dining-room may be omitted, if the house is
in a village and joins another, but this is desirable to give abundant
light in this, which is really the living-room of the family.—The method
of heating indicated in Design XI. is applicable to this plan.... SECOND
STORY, (fig. 53.)—The peculiar manner of constructing the Stairs brings
their landing nearly in the center, so that hall space sufficient only
for four doors is necessary, leaving almost the entire floor to be laid
off into rooms. The heavy lines show the most simple method of dividing
this story into four rooms. Should another room be desirable, it can be
taken off from two rooms, as shown by the dotted lines. In this case,
another window may be inserted as indicated. Every one’s experience will
suggest that there can not be too many closets, and we have added one to
every room in the house, except the parlor.... CONSTRUCTION.—The bill of
timber appended indicates a “regular” _Frame_. It is a great satisfaction
and saving to have the timber properly “laid out,” and framed by, and
under the immediate direction of a master mechanic, so as to be quickly
and substantially raised. Four good carpenters would easily frame all
the timber in this house in two days, and raise it the next day. At
least one man of well-known ability and experience as a mechanic should
be with and take charge of those employed to build a house. It is not
economical for one about to build a _home_ to trust such work to the
caprice of an inexperienced man, who has “helped” around some job, until
he has learned the name of tools, but who has no positive knowledge of
the trade, and could not for his life “lay out” the corner-post for a
two-story house, yet is shrewd enough to screen his deficiencies by
suggesting “balloon,” or something indefinite, that requires little or no
skill. It sometimes happens, in localities remote from large cities or
large towns, that persons are obliged to do with make-shifts, to get a
home at all. It was such a condition of things that led the well-disposed
pioneer of the West to adopt the method called “Balloon framing,” which
is really no framing at all, and required no skill to get up a kind of
home acceptable under such circumstances. But wherever skilled labor
may be had, it is ridiculous to see a gang of intelligent(?) mechanics
standing up pieces of diverse lengths, and propping them in a vertical
position with rods running every way as braces, not one of which can be
removed until the upper ends are secured by ties of some sort. A good
frame in a house is equivalent to a good constitution in a man, and is
of vital importance; it need not be clumsy or overloaded, but should
at least have the merit of being able to stand alone.... PAINTING.—The
principal object in Painting should be to protect and preserve the
materials used in construction, as also to give a good appearance.
All exterior wood-work, though executed with the greatest care and in
the most substantial manner, if left exposed to climatic influences,
is very soon destroyed. It is economy to use only the _best lead_ and
_linseed-oil_ in painting exterior wood-work. They will outlast all other
compounds, present a better appearance, and in the end furnish a much
better foundation for future painting. The difference in cost between the
best materials and the imitations, for painting the exterior of a house
built on these plans, would not exceed $12, and the cost of labor would
be just the same in either case. The first coat or “priming,” should be
put on with the greatest care, so as to thoroughly cover and close all
the pores in the exposed surface. All window and outside door frames,
corner-boards, window-caps, water-table, and stoop-flooring, should be
primed _before_ setting, especially their edges, where joinings require
to be made, as it will be the last opportunity to do justice to these
parts, where moisture is liable to collect and remain. When priming is
well done, it is best to let the building stand until thoroughly dried,
both inside and out, before adding the second coat. It must be evident
to any one that much of the water used in the plastering must percolate
through, and thoroughly saturate every part of a house. Sufficient time
should be allowed for this moisture to pass off, and the whole house to
become dried out.... The nails should then be “set,” which will tighten
up permanently all the laps in the siding, after which the work should
be properly puttied, and the second coat applied. Autumn is the best
season to paint, after the extreme heat has passed, and insects have
disappeared; the process of drying will be slower and more perfect, with
less waste by evaporation, leaving a smooth, solid surface. I am often
asked “_what color to paint?_” Notwithstanding much has been said against
white for outside painting, and realizing that there are many cases
where white would not be suitable, or thought of, yet I believe that for
suitability and good taste, in nine cases out of ten, very light colors,
or pure white, are indicated. I have known instances where much time has
been spent to discover a suitable color for a house, where nearly all the
different pigments were drawn from, and after much mixing and testing,
the result has generally been an unknown and unnamed shade, as if
everything depended on some sentimental “blending with the background,”
or in other words, painting the house out of sight. As a rule, paint so
as to best reveal the true character of the building, and this is best
done when the colors afford the foundation for the natural shadows that
result from the true and actual projections. For the body and trimmings
are suggested a light “Dorchester” gray; roofs, graphite-black; sash,
coach-black; blinds, “chocolate.”