=Transcriber’s Note:= Illustrations have been moved to the end of each
chapter.
Modern
HOUSE-PLANS
For
Everybody
_FOR VILLAGE AND COUNTRY RESIDENCES
COSTING FROM TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY
DOLLARS TO EIGHT THOUSAND DOLLARS_
Including
Full Descriptions and Estimates in Detail
of Materials, Labor,
Cost and Many Practical Suggestions
By
_S. B. REED_
Architect
ILLUSTRATED
New York
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
1900
Copyright,
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
1900.
PREFACE.
In the modernized and revised edition of “House-Plans for Everybody,”
but little attempt has been made to change the text or floor plans, as
these are standard features requiring no revision. In the matter of
outward dress, however, nearly all the elevations have been redrawn, with
special regard to modern ideas and tastes, and in this respect it is
specially new and commendable. The author has been guided in this work
by many years’ experience, in planning and superintending the erection
of country buildings, and has selected, from an extensive aggregation
of original designs in his possession, such examples as seemed best to
serve for purposes of simplicity, comfort, and economy. All the matters
here presented are purely practical—well calculated to assist such as
are contemplating the erection of either a village or country house.
The plans embrace almost every variety of arrangement and style—each
one is accompanied with a detailed description of its conveniences
and construction—and its cost is shown by careful estimates, made to
correspond with a uniform standard of prices, at present rates. To
builders, this work will be valuable as a handbook of reference, to aid
them when applied to for suggestions, either in the projection of new
dwellings, or in the alteration of old ones, saving much time, study and
calculations. The estimates of cost have been found correct as to totals,
in the neighborhood of New York, and in many other localities builders
have offered to duplicate the structures for the figures given.
S. B. REED.
CONTENTS.
_Page._
DESIGN NO. I.
A COTTAGE, COSTING $250.
Accommodations for Beginners in House-Keeping, with Limited
Means.—Arranged as the Wing of a future Main House.—First Steps. 9
DESIGN NO. II.
COUNTRY COTTAGE, COSTING $450.
Approximating the Cheapest Construction.—Roofs must not be
slighted.—Their Relative Cost.—Suggestions as to Inside Linings. 12
DESIGN NO. III.
COUNTRY COTTAGE, COSTING $550.
Effect of Angles and Vertical Lines.—New form of Radiator, with
Designs and Description.—A Durable Wash for rough work. 17
DESIGN NO. IV.
COUNTRY COTTAGE, COSTING $550.
Adapted to an Eastern Frontage.—Good accommodations for a small
family.—May have a Vestibule in Piazza.—Exterior Plastering. 22
DESIGN NO. V.
CONVENIENT HOUSE, COSTING $650.
Little required to build a comfortable home.—Saving
by use of regular sizes of Sash, Doors, etc.—Novelty
Siding.—Gutters.—Desirability, and Cost of Hanging Sash. 26
DESIGN NO. VI.
A HOUSE, COSTING $700.
Providing for future Enlargement.—Framework below the First
Floor.—Section of Frame, with Description.—Cornice. 33
DESIGN NO. VII.
COUNTRY HOUSE, COSTING $750.
Fair Expression of Purpose.—Best Results from Location.—Outside
Plastering.—Stearate of Lime.—Formula for Making. 39
DESIGN NO. VIII.
A COTTAGE, COSTING $800.
Enlargement of Design No. 1.—Best use of the Space.—Short
Spans, and Bridging of Beams.—Suggestions as to Location. 44
DESIGN NO. IX.
COUNTRY OR VILLAGE COTTAGE, COSTING $1,000.
Cosy and Homelike.—Style Determined by the Form of Roof.—Modes
of Plastering.—Advantages of the One-coat work. 49
DESIGN NO. X.
A HOUSE, COSTING $1,100.
Adapted to a Twenty-five Foot Lot.—Trim Outline.—No Waste in
Materials.—Pitch of Roofs.—Ventilator and Scuttle combined. 54
DESIGN NO. XI.
A HOUSE, COSTING $1,600.
Practical Experience Valuable in Planning.—Conventional
Requirements.—A Fifth House.—Section of Outside Wall, and
Description. 62
DESIGN NO. XII.
A HOUSE, COSTING $1,700.
Important Features in Exterior.—Care in Foundations.—Regular
_versus_ Balloon Framing.—Painting. 69
DESIGN NO. XIII.
FRENCH ROOFED COTTAGE, COSTING $2,000.
For thickly settled localities.—Enlivened Dressing.—Purpose of
Ornament.—Bracing of Frame.—Taste in Painting. 76
DESIGN NO. XIV.
FRENCH ROOFED COTTAGE, COSTING $2,000.
Conforming to a Declivity.—Outlines of Grounds.—Tower-like
Corner, Supported by a Column.—Weight of Slate, and Tin. 82
DESIGN NO. XV.
SOUTHERN HOUSE, COSTING $2,000.
Extended Area of Ground Floor.—Requirements for
Shade.—Preparations for Severe Weather.—Food Department. 86
DESIGN NO. XVI.
A HOUSE, COSTING $2,100.
Pointed Style—in harmony with rural surroundings.—Earth Finish
around Foundation.—Exhausting poisonous vapors from cellars. 92
DESIGN NO. XVII.
A HOUSE, COSTING $2,200.
The most Economical Form.—High Foundations.—Surrounding
Grades.—Bridging Beams.—Stairs.—Why Contractors differ.—Who
qualified to estimate. 98
DESIGN NO. XVIII.
SOUTHERN HOUSE, COSTING $2,200.
Style adapted to Middle and Southern
States.—Tower.—Verandas.—Windows extending to the
Floor.—Ventilation. 105
DESIGN NO. XIX.
STONE HOUSE, COSTING $2,500.
Balance in Outlines.—Site.—Cellar, how sweetened.—Plant Window,
with Contents Reflected.—Drudgery of Housework. 111
DESIGN NO. XX.
COUNTRY HOUSE, COSTING $2,600.
Suited to a Southern Climate.—Double Front.—May face any point
of Compass.—Detailed Estimate of Windows and Doors. 115
DESIGN NO. XXI.
FARM HOUSE, COSTING $2,600.
Economical and Practical.—Size and Shape.—Direction to
Face.—Hight above Ground.—Cause of Decay in Principal
Timbers.—Paving instead of flooring Shed. 120
DESIGN NO. XXII.
A HOUSE, COSTING $2,800.
Advantages of Square Form.—Rounded Roof Outlines.—New
Modification of Mansard Roof.—Front Hall Dispensed
with.—Chimneys to Save Heat. 128
DESIGN NO. XXIII.
COUNTRY OR VILLAGE HOUSE, COSTING $2,800.
Suited to the Wants of Professional Men.—Outlines and
Dress.—Good Taste.—Rule for Projections.—Slate.—Estimate in
Detail for Plastering. 134
DESIGN NO. XXIV.
FARM HOUSE, COSTING $2,800.
Questions Involved in Locations.—Distance from the Street
to Build.—Seeming Growth of the Earth.—Superintending
Construction.—Points. 140
DESIGN NO. XXV.
A HALF-STONE HOUSE, COSTING $2,800.
Rustic and Substantial.—Front and Rear
Finish.—Construction.—Confined Sewage.—Prices of Building
Materials. 147
DESIGN NO. XXVI.
A FRAME HOUSE, COSTING $2,900.
External Features.—Spreading out.—Direction to Face.—An
Auxiliary Apartment.—Building a Section at a Time.—Reducing the
Cost. 152
DESIGN NO. XXVII.
A STONE HOUSE, COSTING $2,900.
Solid, Independent, and Homelike.—Vines and Creepers for
Decoration.—Manner of Building Corners, with Designs and
Description. 158
DESIGN NO. XXVIII.
A HOUSE, COSTING $3,000.
Suburban Cottage, with Modern Improvements.—High
Foundations.—Large Rooms.—Platform Stairs.—Low-down
Grates.—Coal-lift. 164
DESIGN NO. XXIX.
A HOUSE, COSTING $3,100.
Summer Residence, with Principal Rooms in the Rear.—Parlor and
Piazza for Use together.—Well, How Constructed. 171
DESIGN NO. XXX.
FRAME AND BRICK HOUSE, COSTING $3,300.
Indestructible Covering.—Design Showing Method of Construction,
with Description.—Economical Plumbing. 175
DESIGN NO. XXXI.
A HOUSE, COSTING $3,700.
Residence or Parsonage.—Three Elevations.—Nearly Square
Ground-Plan.—Arranged Similar to Double House. 180
DESIGN NO. XXXII.
A HOUSE, COSTING $4,000.
Double Front.—Bay Windows.—Circular Window Heads.—Preventing
drafts.—Fire-place Heaters.—Plumber’s Work in Detail. 187
DESIGN NO. XXXIII.
A BRICK HOUSE, COSTING $4,000.
Compact Outline.—Vestibule Doors.—Vertical Side Walls in
Mansard Roof.—Design of Frame, with Description. 196
DESIGN NO. XXXIV.
COUNTRY RESIDENCE, COSTING $4,750.
Perspective View.—Physicians’ Office.—Laboratory.—Water
Reservoir.—Fountain.—Heaters and Grates. 203
DESIGN NO. XXXV.
SUBURBAN RESIDENCES, COSTING $4,000.
Mansard Roofs.—Variety.—Conservatory.—Roofing Materials foreign
to each other.—Furnace. 205
DESIGN NO. XXXVI.
A FARM HOUSE, COSTING $5,000.
Hooded Style.—Main Entrance from two directions.—Position of
Kitchen Wing.—Conservatory.—Beam Filling. 209
DESIGN NO. XXXVII.
A SUBURBAN RESIDENCE, COSTING $7,000.
Outlines determined by location.—Irregularities.—Pleasantest
Apartments.—Arches.—Concrete Floors.—Parquet Floors. 214
DESIGN NO. XXXVIII.
A SUBURBAN RESIDENCE, COSTING $8,000.
Perspective View.—Modern Improvements.—Five Story Tower.—Dormer
Windows.—School Room.—Remarks on Style. 220
DESIGN NO. XXXIX.
SIX CONTIGUOUS HOUSES, COSTING $6,000.
Building in Blocks.—What is Saved.—Overcoming many
objections.—Preserving their identity as Cottages.—Deafening
Partitions. 227
DESIGN NO. XL.
FIVE CONTIGUOUS HOUSES, COSTING $10,000.
Residence.—Corner-Stone.—Observatory.—Desirability.—Imposing
and animated.—Full Specifications of Plumber’s Work. 232
DESIGN I.
A COTTAGE, COSTING $250.
This plan was designed for a simple cottage, with sufficient
accommodations for beginners in housekeeping with limited means. It is
arranged as the _Wing_ of a larger house to be erected in the future, as
indicated in the dotted sketch adjoining the ground-plan. (The building,
with the proposed enlargements complete, are given in Design VIII.)
To a certain extent, one’s dwelling is an index of his character. Any
effort at building expresses the owner’s ability, taste, and purpose.
Every industrious man, starting in life, has a right, and should be
encouraged, to anticipate prosperity, as the sure reward of honest
worth; and he may, with propriety, give emphasis to such anticipations
in every step, and with every blow struck. His dwelling may well express
the progressive character, rather than a conclusive result. Beginning a
home by starting with a room or two, as present means will allow, and
increasing its dimensions as can be afforded, without the precarious aid
of the money-lender, is honest, independent, and best provides against
the ever-changing vicissitudes of life. The first step towards building
is the preparation of plans. These should be sufficiently comprehensive
to embrace all probable requirements. If only a small beginning is
intended, it should be made to exhibit some degree of completeness, and
be arranged to conform with the proposed future enlargements without
serious alterations.... EXTERIOR, (fig. 1).—In view of the relation
this structure is to bear to a proposed main house, and to allow for
the grading likely to be required in the ultimate completion of the
whole, the foundation is made to show four feet above the ground. Such
elevation adds to the prominence and good appearance of the building, and
relieves the interior from the dampness likely to result from a closer
contact with the soil. The style is simple, neat, and favorable for the
using of ordinary materials and methods of construction.... INTERIOR,
(fig. 2).—Hight of ceiling, 9 feet. The entire floor space is utilized
in the three convenient divisions—a Living-room, Bedroom, and a Large
Pantry—with no chimney-breast, or stairway to interfere. Each room is
pleasantly lighted, and the larger one has outside entrances front and
rear. With a favorable location, the living-room may be made a very
cheerful apartment.... CONSTRUCTION.—For economy, and in prospect of a
future enlargement, that shall include ample cellars, such excavations
are omitted for this building. The Foundations are brick piers,
extending in the earth below the reach of frost, and 4 feet above, and
the intermediate spaces are close-boarded, making an inclosure useful
for many purposes. If desired, a sort of temporary cellar may be made,
by deepening the central portion of this inclosure a foot or two, and
banking the loose earth against the inside of the boarding. The Framework
and other parts are substantially constructed, of materials as indicated
in the appended estimate. The Chimney rests on the central partition
(which is strengthened by the central pier of the foundation), and has
two flues, with metal thimbles in the bottom of each—one to receive the
stove-pipe from the living-room, and the other to serve as a ventilator
for the bedroom. All of the materials are intended to be of merchantable
quality. The siding, flooring, and casings are mill-dressed. The sizes of
the sash are 2 ft. 8 in. × 5 ft. 2 in., and of the doors, 2 ft. 8 in. × 6
ft. 8 in., all 1¼ in. thick, and may be found ready-made, and seasoned,
in the stock of any regular dealer.... In the following _estimate_, the
item of $20, for carpenter’s labor, may seem very little. This amount
is allowed for preparing the building ready for the plasterer, and is
entered in this manner for convenience in making the calculations. Adding
to the above amount the cost of such labor in the “completed” parts, will
make a total of $50.
ESTIMATE, cost of materials and labor:
1,000 bricks, laid, at $12 per M. $12.00
124 yards plastering, at 20c. per yard. 24.80
636 ft. of timber, at $15 per M. 9.54
2 sills, 4 × 6 in. 18 ft. long.
1 girder, 4 × 6 in. 18 ft. long.
2 sills, 4 × 6 in. 16 ft. long.
9 beams, 3 × 6 in. 16 ft. long.
4 posts, 4 × 6 in. 10 ft. long.
14 ceiling boards, 2 × 4 in. 16 ft. long.
75 wall-strips, 2 × 4 × 13, at 11c. each. 8.25
98 siding, 9½ inches, at 25c, each. 24.50
Cornice materials. 6.00
50 shingling lath, at 5c. each. 2.50
6 shingling planks, at 20c. each. 1.20
12 bunches shingles, at $1.25 per bunch. 15.00
36 flooring, 9½ in., at 25c. 9.00
7 windows, complete, at $6. 42.00
4 doors, complete, at $5. 20.00
2 stoops and closets, complete. 20.00
Nails, $4; painting, $14; carting, $5. 23.00
Carpenter’s labor, not included above. 20.00
Incidentals. 12.21
-------
Total cost. $250.00
[Illustration: Fig. 1.—EXTERIOR OF COTTAGE.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.—INTERIOR OF COTTAGE.]
DESIGN II.
COUNTRY COTTAGE, COSTING $450 TO $550.
This plan of an inexpensive country dwelling is adapted to the wants
of many people whose circumstances will not admit of a larger outlay.
It was originally prepared and published in response to many calls for
very low-priced country houses, “some as cheap as lumber and nails can
make them.” The present one approximates that point, and will aid in
devising others.... TWO ELEVATIONS are given for the same ground-plan;
the first (fig. 3) is for a one-story house of the simplest design,
with an entrance door, a neat porch, and two windows in front. The rear
is arranged similarly. The roof is conspicuous, in keeping with its
importance. No matter how cheaply one proposes to build a house, it is
essential not to slight the roof. A roof fit for a one-story cottage
would answer equally well on a three-story house, so that relatively the
cost of this part becomes greater, as the other parts become reduced
and cheapened.... GROUND-PLAN, (fig. 4).—The accommodations are quite
sufficient for a small family, consisting of three rooms, two lobbies,
a kitchen-pantry, and a clothes-press. The Lobbies protect the rooms
from direct contact with the outside doors. The Living-room is large,
and accessible alike from each entrance; it has windows front and rear,
and is convenient to the pantry; one entire side is unbroken, giving
additional space for furniture, etc. The Pantry is shelved on two sides,
and has a sash opening from the rear lobby, receiving light through the
head-light over the rear entrance door. The front Bedroom is of good
size—large enough to be used as a sitting-room; it adjoins the rear
bedroom, and a clothes-press, and has a window facing the road. The
rear Bedroom is the most retired, and has a window looking to the rear.
The Press or closet is shelved and hooked in the usual manner. The door
between the bedrooms might be dispensed with, but its convenience more
than repays its cost.... CONSTRUCTION.—The Foundations are of common
stone and mortar, laid in trenches, so as not to be affected by frost,
and show 1½ feet above ground. The supports for the central partitions
are stone piers, 4 feet apart. The Chimneys are of hard brick and mortar,
passing through the first story in two flues, but joined together beneath
the roof, and finished above as a single chimney. All the timber of the
exterior frame is of 4 × 6-inch spruce. The sills are laid flatways on
the foundation, and the upright frame-work stands upon them. The beams
are of 1¼ × 8-inch spruce planks; they are notched 4 inches, to fit on
the sill, and bear on the foundation, and are nailed to the studding and
sills, binding the whole together. The ceiling-strips are of 1¼ × 5-inch
spruce, resting on the ties, and nailed to the studding. The rafters are
2 × 4-inch wall-strips. All beams, studding, and rafters, are placed
16 inches apart from centers. The siding is of 10-inch dressed pine.
The roof is covered with 18-inch pine shingles, laid on 1¼ × 2-inch
shingling-lath. The porch-frame is of dressed and cornered timber, and
is roofed with shingles on flooring laid face down. The flooring is 1⅛
× 9-inch spruce “milled.” The interior is plainly cased: for doors and
windows, 3¼ inches wide; base, 6 inches; chair-back in the living-room, 3
inches; all beveled. All sashes and doors are 1¼ inch thick. The interior
side-walls and ceilings are white-sand finished, on brown mortar and
seasoned lath. Many efforts have been made to devise something cheaper
than plastering for the inside lining of walls, but no substitute has
yet been found to equal it in cheapness or durability. Plastering, as
usually prepared and applied, conduces to the healthfulness of any
apartment, emits no odor of mouldiness, has no attraction or harbor for
vermin, is impervious to air, and a non-conductor of sound. Where linings
of thin wood or paper are used, it is necessary to deafen the partitions
and ceilings, otherwise they will be noisy. Sound made in any one part
will reverberate through the house with drum-like suggestiveness. Most of
such materials absorb moisture rapidly from the atmosphere, and when at
any distance from the house-fires, so as not to be warmed and dried, the
moisture is retained in them. This is especially the case in chambers and
closets. Rather than seek a substitute for plastering, it is better to
extend its use, and, where practicable, apply it as an outside covering,
as well as for inside linings, as described for Design VI. The SECOND
ELEVATION, (fig. 5,) shows an enlargement of the first, by increasing the
outlines of the roof, giving space for a SECOND FLOOR, (fig. 6). Such
space, though not immediately required for bedrooms, would be valuable
for many purposes. The appearance of the building is improved by the
enlargement, and the extra cost will not exceed one hundred dollars.
Cost of Cottage—No. 1:
468 ft. stone foundation, at 5c. per foot. $23.40
1,000 bricks in chimneys, laid, at $12 per M. 12.00
270 yards plastering, at 25c. per yard. 67.50
576 ft. of timber, at $15 per M. 8.64
2 sills, 4 × 6 in. 80 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 32 ft. long.
2 sills, 4 × 6 in. 32 ft. long.
4 posts, 4 × 6 in. 10 ft. long.
2 plates 4 × 6 in. 20 ft. long.
2 girts, 4 × 6 in. 20 ft. long.
160 wall-strips, at 13c. each. 20.80
56 rough plank, at 16c. each. 8.96
70 flooring, at 20c. each, $14; 115 siding, at 25c., $28.75. 42.75
156 shingling-lath, at 6c. each. 9.36
27 bunches shingles, at $1.50 each. 40.50
Cornice and porch materials. 21.00
4 windows, at $5 each, $20; 9 doors, at $3 each, $27. 47.00
Closet finish and nails, $26.09; cartage, $12. 38.09
Carpenter’s labor, not included above. 60.00
Painting. 50.00
-------
Total. $450.00
Extra cost of cottage—No. 2:
3 windows, at $5 each, $15; 70 flooring, at 20c, $14. $29.00
25 siding, $6.25; 19 rough plank, $3.04. 9.29
23 shingling-lath, $1.38; 4 bunches shingles, $6. 7.38
25 wall-strips, $3.25; 400 brick, $4.80. 8.05
Timber, $5; stairs, $20; porch, $5. 30.00
Carpenter’s labor. 16.28
-------
Total. $100.00
[Illustration: Fig. 3.—ELEVATION OF ONE-STORY HOUSE.]
[Illustration: Fig. 4.—GROUND-PLAN OF HOUSE.]
[Illustration: Fig. 5.—ELEVATION OF STORY-AND-A-HALF HOUSE.]
[Illustration: Fig. 6.—SECOND FLOOR.]
DESIGN III.
A COUNTRY COTTAGE, COSTING $550.
These plans are for a low-priced house, similar in character to those
in Design II., but differing entirely in outlines and arrangement,
and embracing a much larger area of floor space, with increased
accommodations.... ELEVATION, (fig. 7.)—The Front is broken with angles,
furnishing a greater number of vertical lines, thus giving relief from
the depressing appearance that would otherwise be manifest. The roof
projections are proportionate, with simple finish. The cornices of the
central or main part are the most prominent, and have plain trusses. The
gable openings supplying ventilation between the ceilings and roof....
GROUND-PLAN, (fig. 8).—The interior contains five quite ample rooms,
conveniently arranged, besides a lobby, pantry, and two closets. Hight
of ceilings in two principal rooms, 9½ feet, in the side extensions, 6
feet at the plate, following the rafters to the center of the rooms,
and from thence are leveled across at the hight of 9 feet. The front
entrance is through a lobby. (If desired to economize further, the
front stoop and one door may be saved, by putting an arch in place
of the front door, making a recessed porch of the lobby.) The Parlor
has two front windows, and a closet, and adjoins the kitchen and two
bedrooms. The Kitchen is large, has two windows, an open fire-place,
and adjoins a commodious pantry, and a bedroom. The Pantry has a large
window, and is shelved on one side and end. A convenient Clothes-press
opens from the right-hand bedroom. The Chimney is near the center of
the house, insuring much saving of heat. The interior of this house may
be comfortably warmed from a single fire, by placing a Radiator in the
parlor, and leading the fire-draught from the kitchen stove through it.
As the peculiar form and construction of this radiator is comparatively
new, having originated with me, a description is here given, which will
enable any skillful sheet-iron worker to make one (see figs. 9 and 10):
_A_, is the parlor side of the chimney-breast; _B_, the kitchen side;
_C_, chimney-flue; _D_, kitchen fire-place, containing kitchen-stove;
_E_, smoke-pipe leading from the stove through the throat-piece, into
the chimney-flue; _F_, _F_, stove-pipe branches passing through the
back of the fire-place, and connecting the smoke-pipe, _E_, with the
radiator; _G_, interior section of radiator; _H_, face of radiator; _I_,
partition within radiator. The draught is regulated by a damper, _J_,
in the smoke-pipe _E_, between the branches, _F_, _F_, and is forced
through the radiator as required. The radiator may be made of any size
desired to fit the mantle-opening, and if neatly constructed of Russian
iron, will be quite ornamental. The partition, _I_, is 5 inches wide,
and extends to within 6 inches of the bottom at either side, has turned
edges, and is riveted to the front and back. In use, to start the fire, a
direct draught is made by opening the damper, _J_, after which it may be
closed to turn the draught through the lower branch-pipe into the central
part of the radiator, where it descends, passing the lower ends of the
partition, _I_, into the side passages, where it ascends and enters the
upper branch-pipe, leading to the smoke-pipe, _E_. The bottom should
have a collar to slide within the upright part, to facilitate cleaning
when necessary. If there is no hearth-stone to set the radiator upon,
the bottom may be filled with an inch deep of coarse plaster, which
will make it safe even on a carpet. In setting the radiator, an inch or
two of open space should be left between it and the chimney-back (just
the thickness of the interior wall-plates of the mantle, against which
the radiator should join.) Into the bottom of this space, air may be
introduced from the outside of the house, through a two-inch pipe. The
air thus let in becomes heated, and escapes around the margin, furnishing
a pure healthful supply to the room.... CONSTRUCTION.—The estimate
annexed, includes materials, and methods of construction similar to those
described for Design II. The form and arrangement of this building admits
of its being erected in sections; the central or main part may be first
put up, and the side extensions added as means or necessity requires or
allow. In localities where it is difficult to get dressed lumber, rough
boards may be used for the siding, put on vertically, and battened, but
in this case it would be practical to paint the cornices and other
dressings only with lead and oil—using a lime-wash for the rough work.
A durable wash may be made by slaking freshly-burned lump-lime in hot
brine. This can be colored by adding dry-stainers as desired, and may be
applied with an ordinary whitewash brush. Such work would greatly reduce
the cost, and, if properly done, add a feature of rustic beauty, quite
becoming in this class of building.
ESTIMATE cost of materials and labor:
340 ft. stone foundation, at 5c. per ft. $17.00
1,000 bricks in chimneys, laid, at $12 per M. 12.00
290 yards plastering, at 25c. per yard. 72.50
800 ft. of timber, at $15 per M. 12.00
2 sills, 4 × 6 in. 30 ft. long.
8 posts, 4 × 6 in. 13 ft. long.
2 sills, 4 × 6 in. 13 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 30 ft. long.
2 sills, 4 × 6 in. 22 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 13 ft. long.
4 sills, 4 × 6 in. 9 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 22 ft. long.
300 wall strips, at 13c. each. 39.00
70 plank rough spruce, 1¼ × 10, at 16c. each. 11.20
130 siding, dressed pine, ⅛ × 10, at 25c. each. 32.50
176 shingling-lath, at 6c. each. 10.56
30 bunches shingles, at $1.50 per bunch. 45.00
82 flooring, dressed spruce, at 20c. each. 16.40
8 windows, at $5 each, $40; 10 doors, at $3 each, $30. 70.00
Closet and base finish, $16; cornice materials, $15. 31.00
Nails, $10; painting, $60; cartage, $14. 84.00
Carpenter’s labor, $75; incidentals, $21.84. 96.84
-------
Total cost, complete. $550.00
[Illustration: Fig. 7.—ELEVATION OF FRONT OF HOUSE.]
[Illustration: Fig. 8.—GROUND-PLAN.]
[Illustration: Fig. 9.—RADIATOR.]
[Illustration: Fig. 10.-RADIATOR.]
DESIGN IV.
A COUNTRY HOUSE, COSTING $550 TO $700.
This plan of a low-priced dwelling is adapted to the wants of many
living in the country. It will accommodate a small family well, and
has a pleasing appearance.... EXTERIOR, (fig. 11.)—The Front has a
sufficient variety of parts to insure a fair degree of picturesqueness.
An allowable amount of neat tracery is admitted in the composition of
the gables, and between the piazza columns, to give an expression of
taste and cheerfulness. More than this would not accord with the utility
and economy especially aimed at in these low-priced plans. If intended
for a Summer Cottage, or Gate-lodge, for persons of larger means, the
matter of exterior dress would assume quite a different aspect, and admit
of more liberal treatment.... GROUND-PLAN, (fig. 12.)—The arrangement
shown is adapted to an _eastward_ frontage, placing the Entrances and
the Living-room on the pleasant side, where least exposed to northerly
winds and cold. Should an opposite frontage be selected, the plan may
be suited to it by reversing the sides, as this would be reflected if
held before a mirror. The hight of the ceilings are 10 feet. The front
entrances open directly from the piazza to the parlor and living-room.
These entrances may be protected in winter by a sash inclosure, forming
a pleasant vestibule of a part of the piazza. The principal rooms are
a Parlor, Kitchen, and two Bedrooms. The Parlor is in front of the
main building, and of sufficient size for the ordinary uses of such
an apartment. The Kitchen is intended as the Living-room, where the
family, maintaining the simplicity of cottage life, spend much of their
in-door time, sharing together the domestic cares and comforts. It is
sufficiently spacious to admit of the requisite furniture, and allow of
the ordinary family gathering without crowding. It has three windows;
if desired, the upper part of the front door may have sashes, giving
views in three directions. The pantry and lobby, at the rear, are of
equal size, both opening from the kitchen. The two Bedrooms adjoin each
other (but have no communication between them in the plan. This may be
arranged as desired.) One opens from the parlor, the other from the
kitchen, and each has a closet. The Chimney is placed between the kitchen
and parlor, with an open fire-place on the kitchen side. The method of
heating, described for Design III., would insure the comfortable warming
of both of the principal rooms from one kitchen fire.... CELLAR, (fig.
13.)—Hight, 6½ feet. The dimensions embrace the space below the kitchen
and the bedrooms; it has three windows and an outside entrance. The part
under the parlor is unexcavated.... CONSTRUCTION.—The Foundation-walls
are of broken stone and mortar, and show 2 feet above ground. Those under
the parlor are laid in trenches, extending below the reach of frost.
The chimney is of hard brick and mortar. The frame-work, roofing, and
exterior plastering, are similar to those described for Design VI. The
gables are inclosed with vertical boarding, having their lower ends cut
to pattern, and are battened over the joints. The ornamental verges in
the gable-cornices are of pine boards, and, being of simple design, are
readily made, and put in position while building. A pleasing effect is
produced by “lining off” the surface of the exterior plastering into
courses or squares. This is easily done with a “straight-edge,” and an
=S= shaped iron while finishing. The final “Stearate” covering (see
Design VI.) may be divided and shaded in two parts, and so applied as
to give the alternate squares slight changes of shade. The best results
may be obtained from _exterior plastering_ where properly done. It
is impervious to either air or water, and therefore equals the more
expensive methods of inclosures for houses of this character. It should
not be attempted over _horizontal_ lines of framework, as the shrinking
and consequent contraction will cause a bulging and cracking of the
plaster at those points. Whenever obliged to cross such timbers, the
upright framework must be halved on to them, and continued in whole
lengths, to prevent such contractions. All joinings with the exterior
wood-finish must be carefully made, especially at the top, to prevent
water from entering, and running down behind the walls. Wide projectives
of cornices afford a valuable protection for such walls against driving
storms. Exterior plastering may be done in any season that is free from
frost. An ordinary rain will do no injury to either of the two coats of
plaster after they have become “set.” The “Stearate” should be applied as
soon as the plastering is thoroughly dried.
ESTIMATE for cost of materials and labor:
54 yards excavation, at 20c. per yard. $10.80
1,300 ft. foundation, at 10½c. per ft. 136.50
1,250 brick, laid, at $12 per M. 15.00
28 ft. stone steps and sills, at 28c. per ft. 7.84
120 yards exterior plastering, at 30c. per yard. 36.00
224 ” interior ” ” 25c. ” ” 56.00
1,700 ft. of timber, at $15 per M. 25.50
2 sills, 3 × 8 in. 30 ft. long.
3 plates, 4 × 6 in. 16 ft. long.
7 beams, 3 × 8 in. 13 ft. long.
3 sills. 3 × 8 in. 16 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 13 ft. long.
10 beams, 2 × 8 in. 16 ft. long.
2 sills, 3 × 8 in. 19 ft. long.
9 posts, 4 × 6 in. 10 ft. long.
7 beams, 2 × 8 in. 13 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 30ft. long.
14 beams, 3 × 8 in. 16 ft. long.
1 piazza, 2 × 8 in. 18 ft. long.
200 wall-strips, at 10c. each, $20; cornice materials and
gable finish, $18.25. 38.25
180 shingling lath, at 5c. each, $9.00; 16 spruce-planks,
at 20c. each, $3.20. 12.20
34 bunches shingles, at $1.25 per bunch. 42.50
80 flooring-planks, at 20c., $16; piazza, $40. 56.00
3 cellar-windows, $9; 8 plain windows, $56. 65.00
11 doors, $44: closet-finish, $12: nails, $10: carting, $12. 78.00
Painting, $30; carpenter’s labor, $75; incidentals, $15.41. 120.41
-------
Total cost. $700.00
If cellar is omitted, deduct, $167.14. Cost
without cellar. $532.86
[Illustration: Fig. 11.—FRONT ELEVATION OF HOUSE.]
[Illustration: Fig. 12.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.]
[Illustration: Fig. 13.—PLAN OF CELLAR.]
DESIGN V.
A CONVENIENT HOUSE, COSTING $650.
The accompanying plans were designed for a simple, compact, and
economical house, and will be appreciated by any one who may desire
to know just how little is required to build a comfortable home. They
provide ample room for a small family.... The CELLAR extends under the
whole house, the walls are built as shown in the details of foundation
and frame, given in Design VI., with 3 feet of masonry and 3 feet of
frame-work.... The FIRST STORY contains a good-sized Hall, Parlor, and
Kitchen, or Living-room, with two closets, pump, and sink. The stairs
to the cellar lead directly from the kitchen, passing down under the
stairs in the main hall. A “fire-place heater” can be put in the parlor
fire-place, which will also warm the chamber above. This method of
heating is economical, and occupies but little room.... The SECOND
STORY has three good-sized rooms, two closets, and small hall, in the
main house, and an attic over the kitchen. The floor of the attic is
one foot lower than that of the main house; this gives valuable room
for storage, etc.... The hight of the first story of the main house is
8 feet 6 inches; of the second story, 7 feet. The hight of the kitchen
ceiling is 7½ feet. The attic is arranged to have just standing room in
the center.... A great saving of time and trouble is made, when openings
are provided for _regular sizes_ of sash, blinds, and doors, as they
may be obtained of seasoned and well-made stock, at any time, from any
dealer in such materials. These plans are drawn with reference to such
regular sizes, viz.: the first-story windows are 2 ft. 7 in. × 5 ft. 6
in.; second story, 2 ft. 7 in. × 4 ft. 6 in.; cellar, 2 ft. × 2 ft. 8
in., all 1¼ inch thick. All principal windows should have their frames
made with pockets and pulleys, and the sash hung with iron weights and
good cord. The cost for the addition of these necessary parts, beyond
what is required for the plain frame, is about as follows, for each
window of ordinary size: 4 pulleys, (at 40c. per doz.) 14c.; 20 lbs.
iron weights, 2½c. per lb., 50c.; ½ lb. sash-cord, 16c. per lb., 8c;
1 doz. screws, ⅞ in., 35c. per gross, 3c.; labor putting in pockets,
pulleys, etc., 20 c.—Total, 95 cents, and when once done, will need no
further attention or expense, while the house lasts. The satisfaction of
having neat-fitting, easy-working sash, where the upper, or lower one,
may be opened at will, is great. The saving of little fingers, and older
nerves, to say nothing of shattered sash and glass, more than repays
the extra cost of hanging sash.... The front, rear, and parlor DOORS
are 2 ft. 8 in. × 6 ft. 8 in. × 1½ in.; other first-story doors, 2 ft.
6 in. × 6 ft. 8 in. × 1¼ in.; second-story doors, 3 ft. 6 in. × 6 ft.
6 in. × 1¼ in.; all 4-paneled, and neatly moulded. The 1½-inch doors
have mortise-locks; other doors rim-locks, all with porcelain knobs and
escutcheons.... BLINDS are included for the first and second stories,
in the estimate appended, at an average cost of $2.40 per pair, and
may be omitted, but are recommended as useful; they protect the sash
from storms, and can be operated to give almost any desired light or
shade in the rooms.... Many people may be in circumstances that would
justify the building of one part of a house first, to be occupied as a
temporary residence until means and opportunity warrant the building of
the whole. A newly-married couple could arrange to have the kitchen part
built as a residence for a season, rather than forego the opportunity
of setting out trees, vines, and shrubbery, planting, and otherwise
developing their grounds. They would then be near the work when building
the main part, to superintend it, and care for materials, saving much
that is often wasted, or lost. The wing, or kitchen part, could be
built at a cost of about $185, so arranged as that the main house could
be joined to it at any time—or, what would be better, the main house
may be built first, at a cost of about $650, and the kitchen added at
convenience.... The exterior dressing of cornice, window-caps, and stoop,
are decided in their character for simplicity and boldness, giving a
generous and finished appearance to the whole.... NOVELTY SIDING, fig.
18, is mentioned in many of the estimates for these houses. This form of
siding I first introduced some sixteen years ago, since which time it
has grown into general favor and use in this neighborhood. It has the
following merits to recommend it: 1st, It is easily put on by ordinary
mechanics. 2d, When properly nailed to the frame, it strengthens it,
so as to make bracing of the frame almost unnecessary. 3d, The spaces
between the studding, when the interior is plastered, are each air-tight
compartments, containing only stationary air, which is a non-conductor of
cold (or heat), thus protecting the inside wall from the extreme changes
of outward temperature. 4th, A cheaper quality of lumber can be used, the
more cross-grained the materials, the less likely they are to check, or
shrink, and any small, sound knots are easily covered with shellac before
painting, which closes them effectually. 5th, The general surface is
even, so that any brackets or other ornamentation can be put on without
the trouble and difficulty of “scribing” them up to the clap-boarding....
The SHINGLING referred to in the estimate is of 18-inch pine shingles,
and may be laid 5¾ inch to the weather, and secured with large-headed
“shingle-nails.” It is best in laying shingles to lap at one-third the
breadth, never in the center, for should one shingle check in the center,
as they are liable to do, an opening is made through the three courses,
and a leaky roof will be the result. “Shingling-lath” 1¼ × 2 in., with
the lower edge placed just where the buts of the shingles would cover,
will allow air to freely circulate on both sides of the shingles, and
preserve them one-third longer than when laid on close planking, which
holds the moisture, and assists decay of every part of the roof....
GUTTERS.—The old wooden gutter has nearly gone into disuse, and always
seemed a barrier to any satisfactory finish of cornice. It was difficult
to get timber of sufficient width for projections, and in such cases, the
cornices were proportioned by boxing off, and building up around this
“gutter-stick,” which was bad construction—the outer-edge of the gutter,
being higher than the edge next the house, would cause the water, during
heavy storms, or when the leader was choked up, to flow over against the
frame-work of the building, which was one of the most frequent causes of
decay and settling in the older houses in this country.—The tin-lined
“box” and “trough” gutters are often troublesome; the tin can not be
laid in them except in long lengths, which have been soldered together
while flat and smooth. To lay these long lengths into the ready-formed
gutter, requires much bending and hammering, which breaks the best tin
at the soldered joints, on the under-side, where it is impossible to
repair it, so that, while it may not appear at once to leak, it is sure
to do so soon, to be discovered after the cornice has been swelled out
of shape or destroyed. The gutter that I have adopted in all cases where
practicable (see section, fig. 19), either for shingles or slate, is
made of charcoal-tin, 14 inches wide, in lengths as long as can be well
handled. One edge is turned or rolled up around a ⅝ iron rod, which makes
a strong edge. Then a bend is made at 3½ inches from the turned edge,
forming a right angle the whole length. This is laid on the second course
of shingles, with one end lower than the other, so as to give a good run
for the water. The ends are turned up, where required, to stop the water,
and a tube put through the cornice in the usual manner.... For TIN ROOFS,
having a pitch of at least one inch to the foot, the gutters are formed
in a similar manner, with the flat, or bottom part, about ½ inch wide,
making a flange, which is soldered to the roof near the eaves, to a line
drawn at an angle to make one end lower than the other, as for shingle
roofs. This is the simplest and best kind of gutter, will outlast any
other, and in the event of a possible damage, or leakage, no harm will be
done beyond the loss or waste of the water that runs off over the eaves.
It can be easily repaired, or replaced at any time, without interfering
with the principal roof, and it saves the trouble and expense of building
and boxing for gutters, or of making cornices with special reference to
them, and it is cheaply constructed.—ESTIMATE OF COST of building by this
plan in the vicinity of New York City:
38 yards excavation, at 20c. per yard. $7.60
5,000 brick, furnished and laid, at $12 per M. 60.00
230 yards lath and plastering, 3 coats, at 28c. per yard. 64.40
1,412 ft. timber, at $15 per M. 21.18
1 sill, 3 × 8 in. 92 ft. long.
1 girt, 4 × 8 in. 12 ft. long.
4 posts, 4 × 6 in. 21 ft. long.
2 ties, 4 × 6 in. 16 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 19 ft. long.
2 ties, 4 × 6 in. 19 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 12 ft. long.
18 beams, 3 × 8 in. 16 ft. long.
10 beams, 3 × 7 in. 12 ft. long.
1 locust-post, 4 inch. 35
220 wall-strips, 2 × 4 in. 13 ft. long, at 10c. 22.00
160 novelty siding-boards, 9¾ in., at 28c. 44.80
30 rabbeted siding, 9¾ in., at 28c, $8.40; 92 ft. cornice
materials, $15. 23.40
100 shingling-lath, at 6c, $6; 16 bunches shingles, at
$1.50, $24. 30.00
Tin gutters and leaders. 7.00
90 tongued and grooved flooring. 9½ in., at 30c. 27.00
8 windows with blinds, at $8, $64; 3 cellar windows,
plain, at $3, $9. 78.00
2 stoop materials, $20; stairs, 1st story and cellar, $40. 60.00
12 doors and materials. 48.00
Carpenter’s labor (not included above). 75.00
Painting, two coats, $40; cartage, average one mile, $12. 52.00
Extras, for base, sink, pump, and nails, etc. 34.27
-------
Total cost of materials and construction. $650.00
[Illustration: Fig. 14.—FRONT ELEVATION.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 15.—CELLAR.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 16.—FIRST STORY.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 17.—SECOND STORY.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 18.—“NOVELTY SIDING.”]
[Illustration: Fig. 19.—PORTION OF ROOF AND GUTTER.]
DESIGN VI.
A HOUSE COSTING $700.
The plans here given are of simple design, intended to meet the large
and increasing demand for low-priced country or village houses, having
at the same time some architectural beauty. Without this latter feature,
a comfortable house of this size can, in many places, be erected for
much less than $700 even.... The house here described provides for as
much room as a small family would require, while at the same time it
admits of future enlargement, as one’s necessity or means may indicate,
by additions, ells, or wings, at either side, or rear. In all cases, when
planning small houses, it is best to provide for such enlargements. The
triplet window in front is so arranged that it can be readily changed
to a bay-window, when that improvement can be afforded, without marring
the rest of the wood-work, or the harmony of the front elevation....
The Cornice of the main building is bracketed, and projects sufficient
to relieve it of the stunted look so common to country houses. The
brackets are made of 2 × 4-inch timber, in three pieces each, mitred
to the angles required, and nailed together (see fig. 25), making an
effective support and pleasant appearance.... A large saving in expense
of foundations is secured by the following method of construction (see
section of foundation and frame, fig. 24). The excavation is made for the
cellar 2½ feet deep. A foundation of 8-inch brick-work, 3 feet high, or
6 inches above the level of the ground only, is required. A sill of 3 ×
8-inch timber is laid on, and “flush” with the inside of the wall, to
provide nailing for the wainscoting of the basement, if it is afterwards
finished off.... The beams or joists for the first floor are supported
by a plank-strip five inches wide, let into the inside of the frame at a
proper hight, and securely fastened with heavy nails. The other parts of
the framing are executed, and the whole raised, in the usual manner....
The inclosing, or siding, below the first story, is of 10-inch boards
rabbeted and cross-grooved in imitation of large stone-work, and painted
in contrast with the principal body of the house, and the water-table
is put just above them.... Many small houses in the country are built
without any permanent foundation, but are temporarily supported on
posts set in the ground, and “boarded down.” They are always shaky, and
doubtful while they stand, and are frequently blown over altogether.
As will be readily seen, the above method provides for the saving of
one-half of the mason-work in the foundation. In many places stone is
abundant, and will answer the same purpose as brick in this case, except
for the 6 inches above ground. The laying up of a single-face wall, 2½
feet high, of rough stone and mortar, would cost but a trifle. If the
cellar should be finished at any time for basement purposes, these walls
would be much drier and more healthful than when the walls are entirely
of masonry. In this case it would be preferable to have the foundation
walls 6 inches higher, so as to have the basement rooms 7 feet in the
clear.... Several houses have been built on this plan in villages, and in
most cases it has been decided not to have any rear outside door for the
first story (fig. 22), but to wait until a kitchen could be finished in
the front part of the cellar, when the common entrance would be by the
area to the kitchen. In the plan (fig. 22), we have indicated two rear
windows, but a door may take the place of either of them. We have also
indicated by dotted lines where pantry, sink, etc., may be placed in the
corner, according to the wishes of the proprietor.... There is but one
chimney. The parlor is heated by running a stove-pipe through earthen
thimbles placed in the partitions under the stairs, to the chimney, which
is perfectly safe, and no heat is lost. When desired, a fire-place, or
stove-pipe flue, may be carried up through the parlor, as well as through
the living-room, and the two be brought together above the stairs into
one chimney.... The SECOND STORY, (fig. 23), may be divided into three
rooms, the front one being 12 × 15 feet; or, if preferred, this front
room may be divided into two smaller rooms, as indicated by the dotted
lines. One may be 8 × 12, and the other 6½ × 12. The latter would be
large enough for an ordinary bed (4½ × 6½ feet), with stand or chair by
the window; and in this case a small closet could be cut off from the
corner, opening into the large room, as shown by the dotted lines.
COST.—The following estimate in detail, at present prices, near this
city, will enable any one to determine the cost of building by this plan.
Allowance can be made for any difference in cost of materials or labor as
required in other localities: