CHAPTER VIII

ELEUSIS

“That torch-lit strand whereon the Goddesses reverèd foster

mystic rites and dread for mortal men whose lips the ministrant

Eumolpidæ have locked in golden silence.”

SOPHOCLES, _Œdipus Coloneus_.

“Go thou to Attica,

Fail not to see those great nights of Demeter,

Mystical, holy.

There thou shalt win thee a mind that is care-free

Even while living,

And when thou joinest that major assembly

Light shall thy heart be.”

CRINAGORAS, _Greek Anthology_.

Eleusis, like Delphi, was a centre of Greek religious life, but its

Panhellenism was of a later date and a direct consequence of the power

of Athens within whose territory it lay. Although the worship of

nature’s productivity, under the form of Demeter losing her daughter

Persephone within the earth and recovering her again, was indigenous

among the early Pelasgic dwellers in Eleusis, and although upon this

native cult were grafted religious beliefs and practices imported from

Thrace, it is yet true that the Eleusinian Mysteries waxed famous only

as Athens waxed great. Once established by the most powerful city of

Greece as its highest expression of religious feeling, they drew to

their modest birthplace in the recurring Septembers of many centuries

the pious and the curious from all Greek lands. The right of initiation,

originally open only to citizens of Attica, was extended to all Greeks

and later to their Roman conquerors. In this repudiation of “barbarians”

Eleusis resembled Olympia rather than Delphi, where Persian or Scyth or

African might consult Apollo.

But these three centres of Panhellenic life alike present a history

which begins in the dim age of mythology and ends, several centuries

after the beginning of our era, in the final clash of Christianity with

Paganism. Perhaps the history of Eleusis best deserves the name of

“sacred.” Playing no appreciable part in secular events, the town was

repeatedly the scene of religious events which were of unequalled

spiritual importance. Here an early nature cult, sister to savage rites

in many parts of the world, became not only a beautified worship of the

physical universe but also an expression of a hope in immortality. “The

fable of Kore (the Daughter) is as much the image of the destiny of man

after death as it is that of the reproduction of vegetative life by

means of the seed committed to the earth.”[20]

Footnote 20:

See articles by François Lenormant in the _Contemporary Review_, 1880.

Except for the proximity of Eleusis to Athens there was nothing in the

physical qualities of the town to make the Eleusinian mysteries greater

than any others. Its loveliness befitted rather than promoted the

worship of the Earth Goddesses. Their story clung also to the seaward

looking ledges of “steep Cnidos,” where was found the noble statue of

Demeter that is now in the British Museum, and to the blossoming fields

of Sicilian Enna. The Corn-Mother had her shrines on Bœotian farms and

in the mountain caverns of Arcadia, and in more than one locality her

worship was as mysterious and secret as the processes of nature. And yet

the religious genius of Athens could have had no more exquisite stage

than Eleusis for its larger operations. Sheltered by hills, washed by

the sea and commanding a goodly plain, it is still, even in its poverty,

one of the fairest places in Greece. The Thriasian plain, in the

southwestern portion of which, on a low hill, lies the town, is

separated from the plain of Athens by the long ridge of Mount Ægaleus

and from the plain of Megara by the chain of hills that ends in the twin

peaks of the Kerata, or “Horns,” familiar objects in the westward view

from the Acropolis of Athens. The mountains of Salamis also seem to

contribute to the girdling of Eleusis, so near do they rise across the

curving and almost landlocked bay. Empurpled by shadows, the mountains

and the sea are like the deep blue robe of the mourning Demeter. Subdued

to the delicate and luminous tint of the sky they seem like the veil

within whose folds gleamed the cornlike yellow of her hair. Near the

sea, close around Eleusis, there are still fertile grain fields to

recall that—

“Here first the fruitful corn upreared its bristling ears.”

The historical development of the Eleusinian mysteries naturally

followed the general development of Greek religious thought. To the

primitive duality of Demeter and Persephone was added Dionysus, lord of

the elements, when he had once been accepted by the Athens of

Pisistratus. At Eleusis he appeared as the child Iacchus. Later, under

the influences of the strange school of thought known as “Orphic,” at

once mystical and gross, this multiple god became Zagreus, through whose

savage death man, otherwise destined to be forever brute, came to

partake of the divine nature. But in all periods the mysteries “were

founded on the adoration of nature, its forces and phenomena, conceived

rather than observed, interpreted by the imagination and not by reason,

transformed into divine figures and histories by a kind of theological

poetry which went off into pantheism on the one side and into

anthropomorphism on the other.”

In this theological poetry the position of power was held by the long

Homeric Hymn to Demeter, although it antedates the presence of Iacchus

at Eleusis and at least overlooks the importance of Triptolemus, the

young prince of the city, to whom the Earth-Mother gave the first

seed-corn and the commission to teach the art of husbandry throughout

the world. The representation of this act was left for fifth century

sculpture, if we may so interpret the beautiful relief discovered at

Eleusis and preserved in the National Museum. Nor is there more than

casual mention of Eumolpus, the legendary first priest and the eponymous

ancestor of the priestly family in Athens which was charged with the

care of Demeter’s worship. But the Hymn told flawlessly the central

story of Demeter and Persephone: the ravishment of Persephone by Hades

as she was picking roses and crocuses, violets and irises and the

marvelous narcissus which the earth bore to be her snare; the grief of

Demeter as she heard the mountain peaks and the deep sea echo her

child’s cry, her wandering search, her unrecognised sojourn at fragrant

Eleusis in the courteous household of the king, and her retarding of the

fruits of the earth; the reunion of mother and daughter for two thirds

of the year, and the sending up once more of the grain from the rich

fields and the burgeoning of the leaves and flowers; and, finally, the

command of the Goddess that the people of Eleusis should build her a

great temple and an altar below the town and the steep wall, above the

spring Callichorus on the jutting rock.

Homer himself had not known this story. Hesiod had lacked the Ionic gift

to tell it. Euripides, in a later generation, was led astray by his

strain of Orphic imagination which needed the roar of rivers and the

thunder of the sea, the wail of flutes and the clatter of the tambourine

to mark the frenzy of a suffering godhead. The Greeks as a people

preferred a story in which nature perishes and blooms again, in which

grief and love fight with death, while the dignity of life is

unassailed, and the beauty of hills and sea, flowers and welling springs

irradiates its tragedies.

Only the external facts concerning the celebrations are open to us. The

secrets of the two successive initiations, one preparatory to the other,

were so jealously hidden by the ancient initiates that the keenest

scholarship has not been able to discover them in literature or in art.

Alcibiades, idolized as he was, could not secure acquittal from the

suspicion of having parodied the mysteries. Silence was enjoined by

religion, enforced by law. This reserve about holy things, which has

appealed to some moderns as the “chief lesson and culminating grace

derived from Eleusis,” was proclaimed not only as a necessary condition

but also as an integral part of initiation, “imitating,” as Strabo

expressed it, “the nature of the godhead which is forever eluding our

senses.” Knowledge of the outward events of the festival has been

painstakingly gathered from passages in Athenian literature, a few

inscriptions, the excavated ruins, vases and other works of art, and

from the controversial literature, both Christian and pagan, of the

early centuries of our era.

The “Mysteries” lasted nine days, the time of Demeter’s wanderings.

Prior to them the youths—ephebi—of Athens went to Eleusis and brought

thence certain sacred objects which were to be used in the later

procession. On the 15th of Boedromion, or September, near the time of

sowing, the “mystæ,” who in the early spring month of Anthesterion, the

season of planting, had participated in the Lesser Mysteries in a suburb

of Athens, were assembled at the Stoa Pœcile to listen to sundry

proclamations. The following day was one of purification. The cry went

out, “seawards, O mystæ,” and every candidate washed himself and his

sacrificial pig in the bay near Eleusis, following the Greek feeling

that the sea purges from the evils of earth. For two more days

sacrifices were carried on at Athens. And then on the 19th or the 20th

came the great procession to escort the image of the child Iacchus,

myrtle-crowned and carrying in his hand a torch, back to his Eleusinian

home. The day was a public holiday. Great crowds gathered along the

Sacred Way to watch the long line of ephebi, mystics, priests and

officials, who, wearing myrtle and bearing torches, left the Dipylon

Gate early in the morning and reached the precinct at Eleusis after

nightfall, when the mysterious shadows were dispelled only by the yellow

glare of thousands upon thousands of torches and by the lights that

streamed from the sacred buildings.

The modern highroad follows very nearly the Sacred Way. Few travellers

now brave the heat and dust of an Attic September, but in some “month of

flowers” gain their impressions of the beauty of the road, which still

leads over the Cephisus, past gray-green olive groves, up through the

pine-clad pass of Mount Ægaleus, and down again to wind closely beside

the curved shore of the sea. In antiquity the Sacred Way was lined with

tombs and temples and shrines. Moderns are detained only by the lovely

mediæval Convent of Daphne, at the top of the pass, but the ancient

procession lingered not only at the Temple of Apollo which occupied this

spot, but at many other sacred stations, to offer sacrifices, sing

hymns, and engage in dances, solemn or joyous or wild. This was the

reason for leaving Athens so early to cover only thirteen miles before

another sunrise. The last part of the way followed the “torchlit strand”

by night. The “voices of the night,” the moving feet of the multitude

owned Iacchus as lord, with whom the stars also danced, the stars whose

breath is fire. And to the stars of Sophocles Euripides added the

elemental joy of moon and sea:—

“When the stars of the ether of Zeus lead out,

And the moon glides on as the dancers’ queen,

And the daughters of Nereus join the rout

Adown the sea or along the swirl

Of the rivers eternal that rush and whirl—

The ether, the moon, and the streams and the sea

They dance to honour Persephone,

The maiden crowned with the golden sheen,

And Demeter the Mother—ah, Dread is she!”

[Illustration: OLIVE TREES ON THE WAY TO ELEUSIS]

The singing of the vast throngs, breaking out at sunrise, changing its

themes in fresh enthusiasms through the long day and swelling by night

into triumphant volume, must have been unforgettable. Herodotus relates

that in the gloomy time when Athens was abandoned, and its plain laid

waste by Xerxes, even a Medizing exile was haunted by its ghostly

echoes. Dicæus of Athens chanced to be in the Thriasian plain with

Demaratus of Sparta, and saw a cloud of dust advancing from Eleusis,

such as a host of thirty thousand men might raise. As he was wondering

who the men could possibly be, a sound reached his ear and he thought

that he recognised the mystic hymn of Iacchus. Even as they looked, the

dust became a cloud and sailed away to Salamis, making for the station

of the Grecian fleet. This was a sign to the Athenian that the gods of

Eleusis would destroy the fleet of Xerxes. To us an echo of the singing

comes through the serious lyrics in the “Frogs” of Aristophanes. At the

portals of Hades a band of mystics sing over again the processional

hymns they had often sung on earth, beginning with the sunrise summons

to Iacchus to leave his Athenian shrine:—

“O Iacchus, O Iacchus,

Morning star that shinest nightly,

Lo, the mead is blazing brightly,

Age forgets its years and sadness,

Aged knees curvet for gladness,

Lift thy flashing torches o’er us,

Marshal all thy blameless train,

Lead, O lead the way before us; lead the lovely youthful Chorus

To the marshy flowery plain.”[21]

Footnote 21:

Translated by Rogers.

The days at Eleusis were probably only pauses between the “great nights”

of the worship of Demeter. The nightly proceedings seem to have

consisted of three elements. The first was an imitation of Demeter’s

wanderings. The initiates went up and down the shore by the sea, their

restless torches appearing from a distance like great “swarms of

fireflies.” They sat too upon the Joyless Rock, and by meditation

endeavoured to enter into the passion of the Goddess. The second element

was some sacrament of food and drink in commemoration of the fact that

Demeter was finally persuaded by the merry Iambe to break her fast.

Finally came a series of dramatic representations in the great Hall of

Initiation, by means of which the divine story was unfolded.

It would be a mistake to suppose that if we knew more details about

these celebrations we should understand more clearly the influence that

they exerted on the minds and spirits of the celebrants. In the

mysteries, we are assured by Aristotle, the initiates did not learn

anything precisely, but received impressions, were put into a certain

frame of mind for which they had been prepared. The value of subtle

influences like these can never be apprehended save by those who have

been subjected to them. In no age, under no sanction, have men been able

to create sacred rites, whether secret or open, that could not be

construed as mummery, not only by those of a different age but even by

contemporaries who stood outside the circle of the elect. Were every

“secret” of the Eleusinian Mysteries to be recovered, we should still be

uninitiated into their higher wisdom. We should still be thrown back, as

we are at present, upon a vicarious sympathy with those who have borne

witness to the quickening of their spirits in the Eleusinian nights.

Fortunately this testimony comes from a few of the most gifted among the

Greeks. The often quoted statement of Cicero, that initiation taught men

not only to live happily but to die with a fairer hope, only repeats

what was said by his literary master, Isocrates: “Those who have

participated in the mysteries possess sweeter hopes about death and

about the whole of life.” Strangely enough, Æschylus, who was born in

Eleusis and whose plays in later times were acted there because of their

religious character, seems never to have been initiated. But Pindar and

Sophocles and Euripides and Aristophanes harboured personal hopes that

those who knew the mysteries were “blessed” in the hour of death and in

the life to come. In the “Frogs” the dead mystics end their song in

solemn peace:—

“O happy mystic chorus,

The blessed sunshine o’er us

On us alone is smiling,

In its soft sweet light;

On us who strive forever

With holy, pure endeavour

Alike by friend and stranger

To guide our steps aright.”[22]

Footnote 22:

Translated by Rogers.

The impulse that was derived from Eleusis to lead the earthly life

aright must have had as many different results as there were

temperaments among the initiates. Andocides, merchant and orator,

reminded the Athenian judges that they had contemplated the sacred rites

in order that they might punish the guilty and save the innocent. Plato

felt that he whose memory of initiation was still fresh and who at

Eleusis had been the spectator of “many glories in the other world” must

see in every beautiful face or form that he encountered an imitation of

divine or absolute beauty toward which his spirit would go out in

reverential love.

The excavated remains of ancient Eleusis consist of ground foundations

or even fainter traces of buildings and porticoes dating from the

“Mycenæan” period to the age of the Antonines. Pisistratus, Cimon,

Pericles and Hadrian have left fragmentary records in stone of their

interest in this religious centre. The Temple of the Mysteries, which

was a great hall rather than a sanctuary, saw many changes in the course

of the centuries. The older structure of Pisistratus’s day, destroyed by

the Persians, was replaced by Pericles, perhaps according to plans by

Ictinus. Left unfinished by him, it was added to by Greek and Roman

until its boastful splendour aroused the anger of the Gothic monks who

came south with Alaric and compassed its final ruin.

Homelier memories centre in the Spring of Fair Dances (Callichorus), now

identified. Here, Pausanias tells us, “the Eleusinian women first danced

and sang in honour of the goddess,” decked perhaps like the Doric

maidens whose worship of the same goddess charmed the eyes of Alcman:—

“We came to great Demeter’s fane, we nine,

All maidens, all in goodly raiment clad;

In goodly raiment clad, with necklace bright

Of carven ivory, a radiant gleam.”

A fortunate dream prevented Pausanias from relating to the uninitiated

what he saw within the sacred precinct. In unpoisoned content,

therefore, lured by the beauty of the “white spring” which Callimachus,

the Alexandrian, included among Demeter’s gifts, the modern traveller

may sit on the temple steps and abandon thought, even as many an ancient

mystic in the autumnal days between the holy nights must have mounted to

some place of outlook whence he could watch the deep blue sea break into

foam delicate and white as the face of Persephone.

The mysteries ended on the 24th, with a public festival. At Athens games

were held, called the Eleusinia, offering as a prize a measure of barley

reaped from the field of Rharos close to the walls of Eleusis where the

first seed corn had fructified. In later times, with the general

increase of holidays, this festival was prolonged, but in the greatest

days of Athens the procession of mystics returned to the city on the

25th, with ceremonies of farewell to Persephone now leaving her mother

to return to her gloomy lord, like summer nearing the embrace of winter;

and with some final ritual, performed, it may be, at the Dipylon Gate

rather than at Eleusis, of prayer to sky and earth that the one might

impregnate and the other bear. On the curb of a sacred well before the

city gate has been found the very ancient formula, not yet outlived by

the generations of men who live upon the fruits of the earth.

The day of return gave one last opportunity for a public

demonstration—this time of hilarity. Justified by the quips and cranks

of Iambe, the initiates yielded to the impulse which in the natural man

follows close upon exaltation. At the bridge over the Cephisus the

people of the city, wearing masks, met the procession, and a carnival of

scurrilous wit ensued, which was a savoury memory to Aristophanes’s

mystics in the world of shadows. To us the recollection may bring a

sudden distrust of the sympathy with the past which, within the

unfretted silence of Eleusis, seemed completely to possess us. Like the

spectators in the comedy we get a whiff of pork. The light of the

torches reveals the vulgarities of a revelling crowd. The cymbals of the

priests, clashed only at this spot, drown the voices “of no tone.” Is

it, after all, true, as the early Christians believed, that orgies, not

prayers, have busied these men and women?

But with the crossing of the bridge the mood vanishes. The western sun

is once more adorning the Athenian Acropolis. Not only Pindar and Plato

faced this hill with a new reverence after their Eleusinian nights, but

many a simpler man and woman must have come home comforted and hopeful

to take up old burdens on the morrow. If, viewed by a Plato from the

heights of “true philosophy,” thousands who came from Eleusis were still

blind, or only partially aware of the meaning of life and death, this

was but the Greek manifestation of a universal fact: “Many are the

thyrsus-bearers but few are the mystics.”

Greek Lands and Letters · 第 8 / 20 章