CHAPTER III.

FIRST JOURNEY IN EUROPE.

1838-1839.

It has been deemed expedient to give a somewhat fuller narrative of Dr.

Gray’s first visit to Europe than of his subsequent ones. It was then

that he formed many personal acquaintances which ripened into lifelong

friendships, and received his first impressions of scenes in nature and

art which were to become very familiar. His letters home took the form

of a very detailed journal, and it is in extracts from this journal,

supplemented by letters to other friends, that this narrative consists.

JOURNAL.

ADELPHI HOTEL, LIVERPOOL, 12 M., December 1, 1838.

We came up the Channel with a gentle breeze, and anchored at half-past

nine. At ten minutes past ten I set my feet on the soil (or rather the

stone) of Old England. We were very fortunate in our ship, having made

our voyage in twenty-one days; while the England (in which, you may

remember, I once had intended to sail), which left New York on the first

of November, came to anchor just ten minutes before us (thirty days).

The Garrick, which sailed on the twenty-fifth of October, arrived here

only on Saturday. I must close this letter early in the morning....

Evening.--This short English day has been occupied in good part in

getting my luggage from the ship and through the custom house. I sallied

out a little past nine in the morning; went first of all to a tailor and

ordered a coat (which is to be finished and delivered this evening);

then dispatched my letters for home by the United States; found our own

ship just going into dock (what docks they are! but as we have always

plenty of water we do not so much need them in New York); arranged my

luggage, and then proceeded all hands to the custom house (a large new

building, rather imposing in appearance), where I was detained until

past three o’clock. I had fifteen pounds of books to pay duty upon

(fifteen shillings), and nothing to complain of as to the manner of the

examination.... After dinner, visited the market, which on Saturday

evening is full and busy. It is about twice the size of all the New York

markets put together, and a sight well worth seeing. I examined

everything scrutinizingly, but will not trouble you with my

observations....

Sunday evening, December 2.--Went this morning to the chapel of the

school for the blind. The chanting and singing was very fine, and the

sight an interesting one. But to me the solemnity of the church service

is by no means increased by being chanted; heard a tolerable sermon. In

the evening heard Dr. Raffles.[36] His chapel is a gloomy structure

externally, but very neat and comfortable within. Dr. R. preached the

first of a series of discourses “On the most remarkable events in the

early history of the Israelites,” commencing with the bondage in Egypt,

which was the subject this evening; a very good sermon, delivered in an

impressive (but rather pompous) manner. I am very anxious to get to

Glasgow. I have been living in society, for the last three weeks, by no

means to my taste, and most of them are still here. It is not very

pleasant to spend a Sabbath alone at a hotel; but I suppose I must needs

become accustomed to it.

I was not fully aware, until yesterday, how much cause we had for

thankfulness at our safe arrival. The gales which we encountered off the

Irish coast have caused a great number of shipwrecks, and it is feared

that many lives are lost. The England escaped most narrowly.

Feather’s Inn, Chester, Monday evening.--I have, my dear friend, the

singular pleasure of writing and addressing to you another leaf of my

journal from a city which was founded, according to the directory which

lies before me, “in the year, 917 B.C., at which time Jehosaphat and

Ahab governed Israel and Judah,”--the only walled and fortified city in

England of which the walls are yet in a state of preservation. The city

was rebuilt by Julius Cæsar, and was an important Roman station; and

there yet remain many vestiges of Roman occupancy; a hypocaust is still

to be seen under the hotel in which I am now staying,--so it is said,

for I have not yet seen it, having arrived here after dark. But I expect

to be very much interested in this queer old town, for which I owe

thanks to Dr. Torrey, since it was his recommendation that induced me to

come here. I have scampered about the streets this evening, bought some

lithographic views, studied the directory, and am prepared for a busy

day between Chester and Eaton Hall, should I live till to-morrow. But

it is time I should tell you briefly how I got here. This morning soon

after breakfast I walked out to the Botanic Garden, delivered a note of

introduction to Shepherd,[37] who received me rather politely, inquired

after Dr. Torrey, and showed me through the greenhouses. The

establishment is not where it was when Dr. T. was here, but was removed

further out of town, two or three years ago. The garden occupies eleven

acres; the site is well chosen; but being newly planted there is of

course little to see. The hothouses are very well, but not extensive;

the collections not particularly interesting, except for some old plants

that have belonged to the establishment many years.

I took my cloak and umbrella (necessary articles these!), and at 3 P.M.

crossed the Mersey in a small uncomfortable black steamboat, about as

much inferior to our Hoboken or Brooklyn ferry-boats as a Barnegat

wood-schooner is to a packet-ship; and at Birkenhead took an outside

seat for Chester (ten miles), though it rained often and blew hard and

cold; had a good view of the country until about five miles from

Chester, when it grew dark; saw little villages, farm-houses and

cottages, cows, etc., all of which is much more interesting to me than

the smoky town of Liverpool. I have seen several little things that are

new to me. Let us see what I can recollect at the moment. Hedges of

holly--those I am pleased with, particularly when sheared and clipped.

The prettiest fence is a stone wall over-topped with a close hedge of

holly. Ivy in profusion covering great walls, trees, etc., etc.,--we

have nothing to compare with it; a flock of rooks,--very like crows,

but larger; an English stagecoach,--more of that anon; a coach and four

with postilions,--fine. But I must stop here.

P. S.--Liverpool again, Tuesday evening.--I have accomplished a good

day’s work to-day. Rose early, made the circuit of the city of Chester

on the walls before breakfast, explored all about the town; visited the

cathedral, walked to Eaton Hall, four miles and back again; and then,

finding there was no coach in the morning until nine o’clock, took an

evening coach, and returned here ten P.M., much gratified, but a little

fatigued; so good-night. A. G.

GLASGOW (WOODSIDE CRESCENT), December 12, 1838.

I do not just now feel like a traveler. I have been for almost a week,

if not at home, yet the next thing to it, in the truly hospitable

mansion of our good friends here, where I was received with that cordial

kindness which you, having experienced before me, can well understand.

Indeed I owe it chiefly to you, who I assure you are not forgotten here.

Ecce signum. Both Sir William and Lady Hooker call me, oftener than

anything else, by the name of Dr. Torrey. I answer to the name promptly,

and am much flattered to be your representative.

I have just stuck fast here, busy among the plants from morning till

night. I have been out of the house but twice (except to church on

Sunday): once a walk into town with Mr. Hooker, Senior (kind and amiable

old man, who insists upon taking me about, and showing me whatever he

showed you), and once with Sir William to the Botanic Garden. I am

anxious to improve every moment here, where there is so much to be done

and such ample means. Arnott has written, inviting me to spend some time

with him, which I hope to do, visiting him from Edinburgh, there being

now no coach to Stirling or Kinross, from Glasgow direct.... Sir William

has given me many interesting plants; we have settled many points of

interest. He had our new Nuttallia all figured for the Supplement to

“Flora Borealis Americana” as a new genus, and we have recently found it

among plants from the Snake country, which, with Douglas’s and other

Californian plants, he is publishing as a supplement to “Beechey’s

Voyage.” I begged him to adopt the name Nuttallia. He offered at once to

publish it as of Torrey and Gray, but I would not consent to this, and I

am sure you would agree with me. He has in different ways a great share

of Nuttall’s so far,--Pickeringia for instance (which is a shrubby

Baptisia), Kentrophyta, etc. I shall be kept here ten days longer, I

think; no one else abroad is so rich in North American botany or takes

so much interest in it. I am requested to study all his Sandwich Island

plants (including my own parcel here), and make an article for the

“Annals of Natural History” while here. I think I will, if on looking

over the parcels I think I can do the subject justice. Can’t

Knieskern[38] safely make the excursion to Sante Fé in the coming

spring? If he can, and will work hard, he will make $1000 clear of

expenses! All the collectors make money. Hooker is very anxious about

it. I hope to find the fifty copies of “Flora” at Wiley & Putnam’s on

reaching London. I hope you have seen the partner at New York on the

subject, and that the “Flora” will be advertised fully in London before

I reach there. But I must close. Don’t fail to write very often. Sir

William and Lady Hooker and all the family, old, young, and middle-aged,

all send their most affectionate regards. I sit over against your

portrait at dinner. It is very like you....

TO JOHN TORREY.

KINROSS, Wednesday evening, January 2, 1839.

My journal will inform you of all my movements and doings, and also of

the arrival of your welcome letter by the Liverpool, while I remained at

Sir William’s. I am much distressed at the thought of your anticipated

engagements with Princeton, and wish very much that you could have felt

yourself warranted in delaying until after the expected meeting of the

regents of the Michigan university, which was to take place on the 10th

of December. While there is the slightest hope remaining I do not like

to relinquish the thought that we may hereafter work together and live

near each other. The fear that this may not be the case has of late

rendered me much more anxious to obtain books and specimens, in order

that I may get on by myself in case I shall be compelled to work alone.

I need not attempt to tell you how much I have enjoyed my visit to

Hooker. He is truly one of Nature’s noblemen. We worked very hard for

twenty days, and I would have been glad to have stayed as much longer;

for as yet I have looked into few books. All the collections of Carex

placed in Boott’s hands have been returned to Hooker, and I assisted

him in arranging them and selecting for his herbarium; in the course of

which I have obtained specimens of nearly all the Northern and Oregonian

ones, including one or two which have come in recently, of which I have,

when there were duplicates, specimens also for you. The return numbers

of those sent you were in many cases strangely misplaced, and Boott has

often been sadly confounded. He has studied the genus very critically,

hypercritically I may say; for he makes new species where we should

think there were too many already. We went over Hooker’s Grasses in the

same way, and I have obtained numerous specimens and much useful

information which we shall presently require. On Christmas day Joseph

Hooker selected from a large Van Dieman’s Land collection a suite of

specimens as far as they have been studied (to Calycifloræ), in which

there is in almost every instance a specimen for each of us....

In looking over the recent collections from the Snake country, and

Douglas’s Californian, I recognized a great portion of Nuttall’s,[39]

but by no means all. There was a single specimen of Kentrophyta in

excellent fruit; another of Astrophia, with neither flower or fruit,

collected long ago by Scouler and mixed in with a species of Hosackia,

to which genus I am not sure that it is not nearly allied. Nuttall has

made too many Hosackias! The copy of “Flora,” with my notes, has gone

round to London, so that I cannot now communicate many curious things

noted in the second part. But how did we overlook the Hosackia

crassifolia twice over! I am glad you have the fruit of Chapmannia. I am

a little afraid of Stylosanthes, of which there is a sort of monograph

by Vogel in the current volume of the “Linnæa;” but no plurifoliate ones

appear. Hooker has a curious new genus of Chenopodiaceæ, from the Rocky

Mountains, figured for the “Icones,” which he wishes to call Grayia! I

am quite content with a Pig-weed; and this is a very queer one.

At Glasgow, although my stay was prolonged to twenty days, I was unable

in that time to accomplish all I wished with Hooker; and you may be sure

we lost no time, and that I could spare very little to visit those

objects of interest passing by. I did not omit, however, as you may well

suppose, to visit the High Church (the old Cathedral), where I spent an

interesting hour, having contrived to go there alone that I might enjoy

myself in my own way. From this I visited the new cemetery, which

occupies the summit of a hill adjacent to and overlooking the Cathedral.

On the very summit, raised on a tall column, is a colossal figure of old

John Knox in the attitude of preaching, but ever and anon he seems to

cast a scowling look down upon the Cathedral, as if he were inclined to

make another attempt to demolish its walls. And well he might, for if

what I hear be true, I fancy he would find the preaching now heard

within its walls almost as destitute of savor as when the shrine of the

Virgin Mary occupied its place in the chapel which bears her name. The

Cathedral is now undergoing some repairs; the seats, etc., for the

church which occupied the nave are taken away, so that the fine nave

presents nearly the original appearance. But the crypt, said to be the

finest in the kingdom, is now closed and the key in the possession of

an architect at Edinburgh, so that I could not obtain admittance. It was

in this place, perchance you may recollect, that the first meeting of

Rob Roy with Osbaldistone took place. My Scotch reminiscences have been

greatly revived to-day. To-day I have for the first time seen and

tasted--only tasted--the two Scotch national dishes, viz., singed

sheep’s head and a haggis!

I had arranged to leave Glasgow on the morning after Christmas, when Sir

William insisted on my staying at least over Wednesday to sit for my

portrait! I contrived, however, to sit on Tuesday (Christmas day), when

I was done in about four hours, in the same style as Sir William’s other

botanical portraits, and with so much success that it was unanimously

proclaimed to be a most striking likeness; in fact the most successful

of all the artist’s attempts are said to be this and that of Dr. Torrey,

by whose side, it seems, I am destined to be suspended!--a compliment

with which I may well feel highly gratified. I believe it is a capital

likeness.

I dined out only once at Glasgow, at the house of Mr. Davidson, a very

rich don who has made all his money in business here.

Late in the day I went into town to secure a place in the early coach

for Stirling and also a bed for the night, as well as to select some

little Christmas presents for the Misses Hooker. In the evening Sir

William had several friends to dinner, and soon after the breaking up of

the evening party I took my leave of these kind friends with no small

regret; my contemplated visit of ten days has been prolonged to just

twice that number. And now, as we have fairly bid adieu to the old

year, I must also bid good-by to you for the present, wishing you, not

as the mere compliment of the season, but with all my heart and soul,--a

happy New Year. The last New Year I well remember; several of its

predecessors also I have had the pleasure of spending with you. I pray

God we may be preserved and have a happy meeting before another new year

comes.

JOURNAL.

KINROSS, Wednesday Evening, January 2, 1839.

I left Glasgow at seven o’clock A.M. on the morning of the 26th

December, on the top of a stage-coach bound for Stirling, so famous in

song and story,--distant about thirty miles from Glasgow. I arrived

about half past ten, in the midst of a heavy rain.

On leaving Stirling for Perth, I took an inside place, as the storm

still continued, but it shortly cleared up, and I rode on the outside

nearly the whole journey. The only place worth noticing, or rather which

I have time to notice, through which we passed was Dumblane, which is

just one of those dirty Scotch villages which defy description. If

“Jessie the flower of Dumblane” lived in one of these comfortless and

wretched hovels I’ll warrant her charms are much overpraised in the

song. Here I saw for the first time a genuine ruin; that of the large

and once important Cathedral, founded in 1142. During the short-lived

establishment of Episcopacy in Scotland I think that the good Leighton

was for a time rector of Dumblane. Just beyond Dumblane we passed the

field of Sheriff-muir, and beyond this, at the little village of Ardoch,

I passed, without being aware at the time, the finest and most entire

Roman camp in Britain; we passed some fine country-seats on the road;

had a long way the distant Grampian Hills, on which “my father fed his

flocks,” in full view; and somewhat late in a fine moonlight evening, I

arrived at Perth. As the stage which passed Arlary left Perth at nine

o’clock in the morning, and I could not afford to spend a day here, I of

course saw little of this famous town.... A pleasant ride brought me to

Arlary at eleven o’clock A.M., and Arnott was by the roadside awaiting

my arrival. I was sorry to learn that he is not a general favorite among

his brother botanists; but although most of them possess greater

advantages, he has but one superior in Great Britain, and in most

departments very few equals. He received me with great kindness, and I

have spent a few days with him very pleasantly indeed. He is a hearty,

good fellow, and improves vastly on acquaintance. I was exceedingly

pleased with Mrs. Arnott, who is exceedingly amiable and lively. On

Sunday it stormed terribly, so that we were unable to leave the house.

On Tuesday I dined with Mr. and Mrs. Arnott, Mr. Wemyss, the clergyman

of the parish, another clergyman, etc., at Mr. Barclay’s, Arnott’s

father-in-law, about six miles from Arlary. About one o’clock to-day,

taking leave of Mrs. A. I rode with Arnott to Kinross, and leaving

Arnott to write some letters at the hotel in the mean time, I took a

boat to Loch Leven Castle,--the prison of the lovely and ill-fated Mary

Queen of Scots....

On returning to the hotel I found that Arnott had picked up the dominie

of his parish, and had our dinner in readiness. The expected coach

arrived soon after, but was crowded. I am consequently obliged to wait

for the mail which passes about two o’clock in the morning, and by

which, if I am so fortunate as to obtain a seat, I may expect to reach

Edinburgh before daybreak.

WATERLOO HOTEL, EDINBURGH,

Thursday evening, January. 3, 1839.

This is my first day in Auld Reekie; and my first business, on sitting

down by my quiet and comfortable fireside, shall be to give you a brief

account of this day’s work. After taking a reasonable modicum of tea I

spent the whole of last evening at Kinross in writing, until two

o’clock, at which hour the mail-coach punctually made its appearance;

and there was fortunately room inside. We drew up at the post office at

Edinburgh at half past six in the morning (raining as usual). I took

possession of a very comfortable, even elegant room, very different from

the six feet by nine bedrooms of most hotels. This is the finest hotel I

have yet seen; the Adelphi at Liverpool is not to be mentioned in

comparison. I threw myself on the bed and slept for an hour or two. On

waking I drew up the curtains of my windows, and had all at once a

magnificent view of this picturesque city, which startled me. From

descriptions and a few prints I have somewhere seen I find I had formed

a very correct view of this city, as far as it went. It is the finest

town I have seen or expect soon to see. It owes much of its beauty to

its peculiar site, and to the manner in which the old town acts as a

foil to the new. Immediately after breakfast I sallied forth, walked

down the street, uncertain which of my letters of introduction I should

first attempt to deliver; decided for Greville;[40] so I crossed the

North Bridge, which is thrown not over a river but over a part of the

town, into the old town, crossed High Street, passed the huge block of

buildings occupied by the university, plain and heavy without, but the

spacious court within very imposing; and a few minutes’ walk brought me

to Dr. Greville’s residence, which looks in front upon a large public

square, and on the other the green fields extend up almost to the

house,--a complete rus in urbe. Dr. Greville received me very kindly,

and seemed well pleased to receive Dr. Torrey’s letter; made many

affectionate inquiries, and urged me to stay with him while I remained

in town. I was predetermined to decline all invitations of this kind in

Edinburgh, but found I could give no reasons for doing so that would not

seem strange. Dr. Greville said he well knew I should be obliged to stay

either with him or Dr. Graham,[41] who would never let me off; so, as I

thought Dr. Greville would prove the most useful and edifying

acquaintance, I accepted his invitation and promised to send my luggage

sometime to-morrow. We set out to call on Professor Graham; walked over

into the New Town, the squares, rows, terraces, and crescents all very

fine; called at Professor G.’s, who was as usual out; left Dr. Torrey’s

letter and my own card. Left to myself again, after promising to meet

Dr. Greville at dinner at the house of a friend of his, I directed my

steps to the Castle, which, crowning a high cliff much like that of

Stirling, nearly or quite perpendicular except on one side, is visible

from almost every part of the city.... Walked far away to Inverleith

Terrace to leave my letters for Mr. Nicoll;[42] returned, dressed for

dinner, passed an agreeable humdrum evening at a small family party;

returned to the hotel, read two American newspapers (little news), found

a good fire in my room, and sat down to make these desultory notes. As

to all the rest of what I have seen I may have more to say another day.

Good-night!

ST. GEORGE’S SQUARE, 12 M., January 4, 1839.

Before I retire to rest I must hastily and very briefly record my doings

to-day, just by way of keeping in good habits; as I am engaged to

breakfast at an early hour with Dr. Graham I must soon go to bed. Rose

at half past nine (recollect I had not slept the previous night),--a

snowstorm. Sight-seeing being out of the question, went to the

university, just in time to hear the latter part of Dr. Hope’s lecture

(Light Carburetted Hydrogen and Safety Lamp); fine-studied and rather

formal manner,--did not wear his gown or ruffles at the wrist!

Experiments few but rather neat. In cutting off flame with wire gauze he

varied the experiment in a way I had not previously seen, viz., by

throwing a jet of ether upon the gauze, which burnt below but did not

kindle above,--a very pretty effect. He looks to be not above

sixty-five, although he must be ten years over that age. Next heard

Professor Forbes,[43] a handsome man of very elegant appearance; a most

elegant and lucid lecturer; delivered my note of introduction from

Professor Silliman; received me very kindly, but I was obliged to leave

at once to hear a lecture from Professor Wilson, the famous Christopher

North, one of the most extraordinary men living, very eccentric, a

gifted genius, and a man of the most wonderful versatility of powers.

The subject to-day was the Association of Ideas. The lecture was rather

striking, original in manner, with a few flights of that peculiar

eloquence which you would expect from Christopher North. Next heard Dr.

Monro (Anatomy); very prosy; the class behaved shockingly, even for

medical students! Lastly I heard Professor Jameson[44] a stiff,

ungainly, forbidding-looking man, who gave us the most desperately dull,

doleful lecture I ever heard. It was just like a copious table of

contents to a book,--just about as interesting as reading a table of

contents for an hour would be; I may add just as instructive! Dined in a

quiet way with Dr. Pardie, a young physician to whom I brought a letter

from James Hogg; his wife is a cousin of James; went from the table to

the college to hear a botanical lecture from Professor Graham; returned

to tea and spent the evening. I found I had quite unexpectedly met with

profitable acquaintance, as Dr. and Mrs. Pardie were active and ardent

Christians, of the Baptist persuasion, and people of a very delightful

spirit. They were well acquainted with Mr. Cheever of Salem, who spent

some time in Edinburgh previous to his journey to Palestine. I passed a

very pleasant evening, and promised to call on them again before leaving

town. Returned in the midst of a violent snowstorm to Dr. Greville’s,

where I am now domesticated, having sent up my baggage from the hotel.

Saturday evening.--Rose this morning at half past seven; and at half

past eight, according to engagement, went over to the other side of the

town with Dr. Greville, to breakfast with Dr. Graham, and then visit the

Botanical Garden (deep snow). We looked about the garden, or rather the

greenhouses, until afternoon; much gratified with the splendid

collections; but the Sabbath draws nigh, and I cannot go on to tell you

more about it now. Called on Mr. Nicoll on my return; made a provisional

engagement to meet him at breakfast on Monday and examine his sections

of woods. Ran about the streets; left a note at the house of Arnott’s

brother, to make arrangements (as we have done) for visiting Parliament

House, etc., on Monday; returned to Greville’s, dressed for dinner, and

looked over books, etc., until Professor Graham and Dr. Balfour,[45]

secretary of the Botanical Society, arrived; dined; passed a pleasant

evening; after family worship had a little conversation with Dr.

Greville, retired to my room, and now, as I am at the bottom of the page

and my watch says ten minutes to twelve,--to bed. Adieu.

Monday evening.--Two days have passed since I have taken up my pen to

communicate to you my little diary. I still remain domesticated at Dr.

Greville’s, where I am received with the greatest kindness, and am as

happy as I can be away from home. I like Dr. G. and family much, there

is so much true Christian feeling and simplicity. Dr. G. seems much to

regret that he was unable to meet Dr. Torrey in Edinburgh. Yesterday was

the first Sabbath of the new year, and I heard two sermons adapted to

the season; one in the morning, in an Episcopal chapel (the one to

which this family belong) from Mr. Drummond, the text being the latter

clause of Hebrews viii. 13; a most excellent, faithful, and godly

sermon. In the afternoon I occupied a seat Dr. Greville was so kind as

to secure for me in the Old Greyfriars (Scotch) Church, which is so

crowded that without this precaution you can hardly expect to get into

the church when Dr. Guthrie preaches. He is the most striking preacher I

ever heard. I could not help comparing him with Whitfield. The text was

the first clause of Eccles. ii. 11. I dare not attempt to give you any

idea of the discourse. I wish you could have heard it. In this

church-yard the remains of the early martyrs of Scotland repose, not far

from the Grassmarket, where they were mostly offered up. I stood upon

the very spot to-day where they suffered. We had a terrible wind all

last night, which, with the rain, carried off nearly all the snow. The

morning was so stormy that I could not fulfill my conditional engagement

to breakfast with Mr. Nicoll and look at his curiosities. So I repaired

to the university at ten; heard Sir Charles Bell,[46] the professor of

surgery,--a decent lecturer, but not remarkable. At eleven I heard the

celebrated Dr. Chalmers, the professor of divinity. The old man has a

heavy, strongly-marked Scotch countenance, which, however, brightens

very much when he is engaged in his discourse. His manner is rather

inelegant and his dialect broad Scotch and peculiar. But the matter is

so rich that he carries all before him. Every word is full of thought,

and he occasionally rose to a very powerful eloquence. He is much

beloved, and is considered by all parties, perhaps, as the strong man of

Scotland. The subject of his lecture this morning was the advantage (and

the abuse) of Scripture criticism. It was a treat to hear him. He paid a

high compliment, in the course of his remarks, to our Moses Stuart.

The weather growing by this time more tolerable, I walked about

town,--visited the Parliament House, the Library of the Writers to the

Signet; passed through the Grassmarket, returned here, looked at plants

with Dr. Greville; dined; received a parcel from Sir William Hooker

containing a few plants I had accidentally left (a few he had given me).

A very kind letter informed me that he would be in London about the same

time with me (which I had in part expected, and about which hangs a tale

I must write soon), and also a fine parcel of letters of introduction

for me, both to persons on the way to London, and also on the

Continent,--to Delessert, De Candolle, Martins, Endlicher, Humboldt,

etc. Truly he is a kind man; he has laid me under lasting obligations.

He asks me to say to Dr. Torrey that his Grace of Bedford is anxious to

receive also the Hudsonia ericoides from New Jersey, and he will be

greatly obliged if he will send a box of it to Woburn early in the

spring. Attended this evening a meeting of the Royal Society, Dr.

Abercrombie[47] (author of “Intellectual Powers,” etc.) in the chair.

Dr. A. is at the head of the profession here; is greatly esteemed, and

is a most exemplary Christian. An interesting paper was read by

Professor Forbes, of whom I have spoken before; a man whom from his

very youthful appearance you could never have imagined as the successful

candidate to the professor’s chair against Dr. Brewster. But Dr.

Brewster is no favorite in Edinburgh. Other distinguished men were

there. I was introduced to Professor Christison,[48] had some pleasant

conversation; promised, if practicable, to hear him lecture to-morrow at

nine A.M., and look at his museum of materia medica. We had tea after

the adjournment, according to the usual custom here, which is a very

pleasant one. I only count upon two days more in Edinburgh, and have yet

much to do. I am anxious to reach London, where I hope there are letters

for me. Good-night. May God bless you all, and keep you.

MELROSE, January 10, 1839, Thursday evening.

On the 8th inst., Tuesday, I went immediately after breakfast to the

university and heard Professor Christison’s lecture, Materia Medica. He

is an excellent lecturer. I spent a half hour with him, in looking over

his cabinet of preparations, which contains a large number of fruits,

etc., preserved in strong brine instead of spirits. I acquired some

useful information concerning the best way to close the jars, for which

he has some very neat plans. Then I heard Professor Forbes again;

elegant as usual, but he did not succeed very well in his experiments.

The next hour I had a rich treat. I heard another lecture from Professor

Wilson, on the Association of Ideas, which on this occasion he noticed

in a more practical view than before. He recited, in his glowing

manner, several passages from Virgil, and a long one from Milton, and

gave a long and most eloquent analytic commentary upon each, far

exceeding anything of the kind I ever heard before. After visiting the

library of the university--a most magnificent room--I set out for

Holyrood House.... I bought one or two poor prints, a cast of the

seal-ring of Mary, plucked a bit of holly from a bush standing by the

place by the altar before which Mary was married to Bothwell, and

reluctantly took my leave. There was yet some time remaining, so I set

out to climb Arthur’s Seat, which rises abruptly behind Salisbury Crags

to the height of eight or nine hundred feet. I attained my wish, and had

a beautiful view, from the summit, of the city beneath my feet, and the

wide country around. I descended more rapidly than I went up, though at

some risk to my neck. Returned to Dr. Greville’s, where I dined and

spent all the evening.

I had engaged yesterday to breakfast with Dr. Graham. I therefore set

off early for that purpose; afterward accompanied him to the Garden,

examined the grounds, etc., passed some time in the splendid palm-house.

I spent some portion of the morning also with Mr. Nicoll, examining with

the microscope his beautiful collection of recent and fossil wood in

thin slices; learned how to prepare them. Then arranged my affairs to

leave Edinburgh in the morning. In the evening Dr. Greville and myself

dined with Mr. Wilson (gentleman naturalist), the brother of the gifted

Professor Wilson; himself almost equally gifted, but with a more healthy

tone of mind. He interested us so much that our stay was prolonged until

nearly the “wee short hour ayont the twal,” when we parted, after a

pressing invitation to visit him at his country residence in case I ever

visited Scotland at a more pleasant season. Taking leave of my kind

friends the Grevilles, I was early this morning on my way to Melrose. I

have been received with the utmost kindness, not only by this agreeable

and most excellent family, but among all the acquaintance I have made in

Edinburgh. I had purchased for you a collection of hymns, etc., edited

by Dr. Greville and his pastor, Mr. Drummond, with which I was very much

pleased, and doubt not you would like them much. But Dr. Greville saw

it, and afterwards insisted on sending a much handsomer copy to Dr.

Torrey, which was accordingly placed in my hands for him. Melrose is

about thirty-six miles from Edinburgh, on one of the routes to

Newcastle. We came upon the Tweed among a rugged range of hills, at

first a very small stream; followed it along the sinuous valley for a

long way, until it became a pretty considerable river, for Great

Britain; at length the valley grew wider, softer, and in the proper

season, doubtless very beautiful. A smaller stream joined it at some

distance before us, and as its opening vale came into view, the

driver--I beg his pardon, coachman--pointed with his whip to the

opposite side and said, “Abbotsford; “ and true enough the turrets of

this quaint castellated house were distinguishable, in the midst of a

grove mostly of Scott’s own planting, near the banks of the Yarrow. We

soon after crossed the Tweed, at the place where the White Lady

frightened the sacristan in “The Monastery; “ the scene of which, you

know, was laid at Melrose and in the neighborhood. The fine old ruin of

Melrose Abbey now came into view, half surrounded by a dirty little

Scotch village. Here I abandoned the coach until to-morrow, secured a

gig, and was soon on my way to Abbotsford.... I walked back from

Abbotsford, noticing more particularly the beauty of the valley, and the

fine Eildon Hills which rise behind Melrose, from whose summit, it is

said, a very beautiful prospect may be obtained. I then spent the

remainder of the afternoon about Melrose Abbey, the most beautiful ruin

I have ever seen or expect to see; more beautiful than I had imagined,

and just in that state of dilapidation in which it appears to the

greatest advantage as a ruin, for were it entire it would be indeed

magnificent. I feel now as if I should never care to see another ruin of

the kind; and therefore I shall not visit Dryburgh Abbey (where Scott is

buried), as I had intended; although I suppose we shall pass by nearly

in sight of it to-morrow. I wish I could bring you some sketch or print

that would give you some idea of Melrose, but I fear this is impossible.

The exquisite carvings in stone, especially, cannot be appreciated until

they are seen. It is said (I forget the lines) that Melrose should be

seen by moonlight, and this I can well imagine; but this evening there

is neither moonlight nor starlight....

DURHAM, Saturday evening, January 12, 1839.

Soon leaving the Tweed we crossed a range of hills, and came down into

the fertile Teviotdale, so famous in border story. Again leaving this

valley, we wound our way up the Jedwater, a tributary of the Teviot,

rising high up in the Cheviot Hills, just on the line between England

and Scotland. We passed Jedburgh, a Scotch village of considerable size

and importance, dirty and comfortless of course. Here is an old abbey,

which I should have been loth to pass by had I not seen Melrose; thence

we ascended the Jed for many a weary mile, until we reached its source

high among the Cheviot Hills. Our course was literally “over the

mountain and over the moor,” for after a tedious ascent we crossed the

boundary line at an elevation of fifteen hundred feet above the level of

the sea. We were by this time thoroughly drenched with mist and rain;

the wind forbidding the use of our umbrellas. We immediately commenced

our descent, and just at dusk stopped for a hasty dinner at Otterbourne,

so famous in the history of the border warfare as the place of the

memorable Chevy Chase. It was too dark to see the cross erected to mark

the spot where Percy fell. Pass we over the ride from this to Newcastle,

as we saw nothing, though we passed near some places of

interest,--Chillingham, the residence of the Earl of Tankerville, for

example,--and arrived at Newcastle about nine o’clock in the evening. In

the morning I delivered notes of introduction from Hooker and Greville

to George Wailes, Esq., one of the active members of the Newcastle

Natural History Society; visited their fine building and really splendid

museum, especially rich in fossil remains and also in the British birds;

made arrangements for correspondence and exchange with the Michigan

State Survey; was introduced to a botanist or two; visited the castle

built by Robert, brother of William the Conqueror, if I recollect

aright, which has stood firmly for many a year, and may stand for

centuries more, or as long as the world standeth.... Arrived at Durham

at eight in the evening. I called almost immediately upon Professor

Johnston[49] and delivered Doctor Torrey’s letter and parcel, when we

recognized each other as fellow-passengers in the coach from Newcastle,

he being a Scotch gentleman,--looking very like my friend Couthouy of

the exploring expedition,--whom I was far from imagining would prove to

be the professor in the Durham University; took my tea and spent the

greater part of the evening with him. He told me he was just about to

send a parcel to Doctor Torrey by a friend going next week to America. I

must embrace this opportunity to send my letters, now forming a somewhat

bulky parcel....

Spent Monday with Professor Johnston in his laboratory, witnessing the

progress of some analyses of resins, etc., in which he is now much

engaged; also went through the old castle, now used for the university;

dined with Professor Johnston at four clock; returned to the hotel....

Took my tea with him, and he accompanied me at half past nine to the

coach office whence I took coach for Leeds. I have little to say about

Durham University, promising as it is in some respects, because they

have adopted the monkish system of Oxford and Cambridge to the fullest

extent; the professors and tutors except Johnston are all clergymen; the

curriculum includes nothing but classics, a little mathematics, and less

logic; their professor of natural philosophy never lectures; they give

their professor of chemistry, mineralogy, and geology just fifty pounds

a year (nothing for his experiments), and require no one to attend his

lectures.

But now I must record some painful news, just learned to-day, which has

shocked me exceedingly, but which you will have heard of long ere this

reaches you; viz., the loss of the noble ship Pennsylvania, the death

of Captain Smith, the first and second mate, and some of the passengers,

I hardly yet know how many. I had grown much attached to this ship, and

thought highly of its officers, who had been kind to me....

LONDON, January 17, 1839, Thursday evening.

This is dated at this modern Babylon, where I arrived about nine o’clock

last evening. I stopped at the White Boar, Coventry Street, Piccadilly;

had a quiet night’s sleep; rose early this morning, and had breakfasted

and was on my way to Dr. Boott’s[50] (24 Gower Street) before ten

o’clock. I found Doctor B. at home; was kindly received and was

introduced to his wife, mother, children, and a brother from Boston who

is now with him; spent an hour or two with him; heard that Hooker was in

town. Though not a public day went to the British Museum; inquired for

Brown (Mr. Brown, for he does not like to be called Dr.), and was so

fortunate as to find not only the man himself I was so anxious to set my

eyes on, but also Hooker, Joseph Hooker, Bennett,[51] and Dr.

Richardson.[52] Passed an hour or two. Brown invited Hooker and me to

breakfast with him on Saturday morning; went out with Hooker; first to

the Linnæan Society; introduced to David Don,[53] a stout Scotchman,

and looked through the rooms of the society. Don offered to give me

every possible facility in my pursuits, but of course I said nothing to

him about Pursh’s[54] herbarium at Lambert’s, of which he was formerly

curator; for since he married Lambert’s housekeeper, or cook, I forget

which, Lambert will not allow him to come into the house. From here

Hooker took me,--stopping by the way at Philip’s, one of the most

eminent painters, whose gallery we saw,--to the house of Lambert[55]

himself, the queerest old mortal I ever set eyes on. But Carey’s

description of the man was so accurate that I should have known him

anywhere. I was of course invited to breakfast with him any morning at

nine; he showed us his Cacti stuffed with plaster of paris, among others

a very curious one called muff-cactus, which really looks just like a

lady’s muff and is not much smaller. Lambert’s specimens are the only

ones known, and he gave for them something like a hundred guineas,--the

old goose! A woman has the care of his collections in place of Don. She

stuffs the cacti and seems quite as enthusiastic as old Lambert himself.

We went next to the Horticultural Society’s rooms in Regent Street in

hopes to find Mr. Bentham; but instead we met Lindley, who received us

very politely; he asked me to send him my address the moment I was

settled in lodgings.... Here I parted from Hooker for the present,

declining an invitation to join him at the dinner of the Royal Society’s

Club, for which I was afterwards almost sorry, as I should have met

there Hallam, the historian, and some other distinguished men, as also

Brown, whose peculiar dry wit is said to have abounded greatly. Hooker

seems as anxious to serve me and aid me here in London as at his own

home. He is the most noble man I ever knew. Thence I took a cab and

drove into the City, through Temple Bar, down Fleet Street; drove round

St. Paul’s, to the office of Baring Brothers & Company, who are to be my

bankers and to whom my letters here may now be addressed; thence to the

office of Wiley & Putnam in Paternoster Row; did not see Mr. Wiley, but

learned that the copies of our “Flora” had not arrived, which I am very

sorry for, and don’t know how to account for it; called at C. Rich’s,

but found no letters, which was a sad disappointment indeed; thence back

here to dinner. At eight o’clock went to Somerset House to attend a

meeting of the Royal Society, where again I met Hooker and Dr.

Richardson. Brown was also present, for the first time in eight years.

Royle[56] was in the chair, at which the botanists present sneered much,

as they evidently think him too small a man to fill the seat occupied by

Newton, etc. I don’t know how he happened to be one of the

vice-presidents. I was introduced to him after the meeting, as also to

many others. J. E. Gray,[57] who was very polite, gave me and Joseph

Hooker tickets for Faraday’s lecture of to-morrow evening, invited me to

dine with him to-morrow, etc. I was glad to make the acquaintance of Mr.

Criff[58] (or Clift) the curator of the Hunterian Museum, the man who

exposed Sir Everard Home, who invited us to come and see that museum.

While we were conversing, a gentleman, whom Hooker did not at the time

recognize, addressed us, and after some conversation with me asked me if

I would like to be introduced to Sir Astley Cooper, and see his museum.

I answered of course that it would be a great gratification, when he

introduced himself as Bransby Cooper, the nephew of Sir Astley,--of whom

I have heard formerly not a little,--gave me his address, and Joseph

Hooker and myself are to call on him on Monday next. I was introduced

also to Dr. Roget,[59] but saw not so much of him as I could wish; so

you see I have met more distinguished men in one day than I might

elsewhere meet with perhaps in a whole life. But I must break off; I am

engaged to breakfast in the morning with Hooker, to meet also Dr.

Richardson....

WHITE BEAR, PICCADILLY, 18th January, 1839, Friday evening.

I am not yet in private lodgings, but hope to be so to-morrow. You must

not expect me to mention half the things I see in a day here in this

busy metropolis, where as yet everything I have seen has been viewed in

the most desultory manner. I breakfasted with Hooker and Richardson, who

left me for a half hour at the Adelaide Gallery, where I saw very many

things to interest me, which we will not stop to talk of now, as I hope

to be there again; among other things, a live Gymnotus or Electrical

Eel, which gives powerful shocks, they say, for I did not choose to feel

it myself. Thence we visited the Museum of the Zoölogical Society, for

which Dr. Richardson not only procured us free admittance, but procured

for us an order to visit the Zoölogical Gardens; made calls with Hooker,

whom Joseph and I left with the Chancellor of the Exchequer in Downing

Street, while we passed by Westminster Hall and Abbey down to Bentham’s,

who has a beautiful residence as retired as the country. Found Bentham

an exceedingly pleasant and amiable man; spent an hour or two, till

Hooker came in; accepted an invitation to dine with him to-morrow; went

into the City; introduced to Richard Taylor,[60] at his printing-office;

were all invited to breakfast on Tuesday morning next; went to Longman’s

famous bookstore and warehouse; one of the young Longmans politely

showed us over the building, showed us room after room filled with solid

literature,--a most surprising quantity; went by St. Paul’s again, saw

the Bank, etc.; took an omnibus again to West End; passed by the London

University, etc. Joe Hooker and I went to dine with J. E. Gray, who has

taken it into his head to show us no little attention; he has lately

married a rich wife, a widow, much older than himself; I was quite

pleased with her. Went to the Botanical Society,--poor concern; and then

to hear Faraday give the first lecture of the season at the Royal

Institution, Mr. Gray having kindly offered us tickets. I was

unexpectedly introduced to Faraday just before the lecture; pleasant

man, with a very quick and lively expression of countenance. The lecture

was on Electrical Eels, etc.; most elegant lecturer he is; brilliant and

rapid experimenter. I hope to hear him again.

Saturday evening, January 19.--I am now in lodgings, No. 36

Northumberland Street, near Northumberland House, Charing Cross, in the

room just vacated by Dr. Richardson; sixteen shillings a week, and a

shilling for my breakfast when I choose to take it here. It is half past

eleven. I have just come in; no fire, but fortunately my occupation for

to-day is soon told. Hooker, Joe, and I breakfasted with Brown at his

house, and stayed with him until four o’clock in the afternoon! I have a

good deal to say about him, but not here. He is a curious man in other

things besides botany. He has a few choice paintings, and a few

exquisite engravings he has picked up on the Continent. I coveted them

for you. They are just what we should be delighted to have. I dressed

for dinner, then drove with my luggage to my present lodgings, and then

took up Hooker and Joe for Bentham’s to dinner at half past six, where

we met Lindley and Mr. Brydges; the dinner was just the beau ideal of

taste and simple elegance. In the drawing-room coffee was served up, and

in a half hour Assam tea. I am greatly pleased with Bentham, and

delighted with Mrs. B. But more of this anon. We are to breakfast with

him on Monday, and then make up a party to Kew and the Horticultural

Gardens. The house he lives in, a pleasant place, plain but tastefully

furnished and arranged, was the one where Jeremy Bentham lived....

Tuesday evening, January 22.--I have to account for myself for two days

past, but fortunately this can be done in general terms in few words.

Were I to enter very fully into particulars I should fill several

sheets. Yesterday Sir William Hooker, Joseph, and I breakfasted

according to appointment with Bentham, and set out, although the day

was rainy, for a visit to the Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick. We went

in an omnibus, and I noticed on the way Apsley House (Duke of

Wellington), and the monument to his Grace in Hyde Park, near his house

(what is the good of honors, indeed, if one cannot see them?), Holland

House, which I saw from some distance, etc. We found Lindley at the

Gardens, and looked through the grounds. They have very few hothouses as

yet, but have just dug the foundation of a very splendid one, which is,

however, to form one wing merely of the general plan. We went to Kew,

about two miles farther, and looked through those fine old grounds and

gardens. The hothouses and the collections in them were much larger and

more interesting than I had anticipated. They are particularly rich in

New Holland and Cape plants. There is a new conservatory for large

plants, a fine one certainly, which cost six thousand pounds, and the

roof was taken from the greenhouse at Buckingham Palace, and therefore

cost nothing. It seems an extravagant job, and Mr. Bentham feels sure a

much better one of the same size could be built for four thousand

pounds. While here we paid a visit to Francis Bauer,[61] now eighty-five

years old, and much broken down, but still hard at work, and making as

beautiful drawings as ever (beyond comparison excellent), and as

delicate microscopical examinations. He has lately been working at

fossil Infusoria, and showed me figures of Bailey’s plate in “Silliman’s

Journal” which he had copied. He was greatly pleased when I offered to

send him specimens of the things themselves. He showed me the original

red snow from arctic America, and also his splendid drawings. Returned

to town, and dined with Bentham.

This morning we breakfasted with Richard Taylor in the City; and went

afterwards to the College of Surgeons, by appointment Hooker had made,

to see Professor Owen, and the fine museum of the college under his

charge (John Hunter’s originally); a magnificent collection it is, in

the finest possible order; and the arrangement and plan of the rooms is

far, very far better and prettier than any I have seen. I shall make

some memoranda about it. We there met Mr. Darwin, the naturalist who

accompanied Captain King in the Beagle. I was glad to form the

acquaintance of such a profound scientific scholar as Professor

Owen,--the best comparative anatomist living, still young, and one of

the most mild, gentle, childlike men I ever saw. He gave us a great deal

of most interesting information, and showed us personally throughout the

whole museum. I am every day under deeper obligations to Sir William

Hooker, to whom I owe the gratification of forming so many acquaintances

under such favorable circumstances. Hooker stays over night often at his

brother-in-law’s, Sir Francis Palgrave, the great antiquarian and Saxon

scholar, Keeper of the Records, of whom I have read so much in the

“British Review.” His eldest daughter, Maria, is spending the winter

there. On Hooker’s return on Monday he was so kind as to bring me an

invitation from Lady Palgrave to dine with them on Saturday, which will

be the last I shall see of Hooker, as he is to set out on Monday for

home. In the afternoon we spent an interesting hour in looking through

the vast halls of the British Museum, particularly through the

sculpture, the Elgin marbles, Egyptian antiquities, etc. These last are

much more grand than I had supposed. Indeed, I was struck with wonder. I

hope sometime to spend a day or two in looking through these rich

collections. Called on Lyell the geologist.

We dined with Dr. Roget, the secretary of the Royal Society, where we

met Sir Francis Staunton, a great Oriental scholar and traveler,

Professor Royle, Dr. Boott, and two others whose names I forget. But

best of all Dr. Boott brought me a letter from Dr. Torrey, dated

December 25 (Christmas), and I soon contrived to get into a quiet corner

to read it; right glad I was to hear from home once more; I will answer

it to-morrow. We left very early, as Hooker was to go to Hampstead,

where Sir Francis Palgrave resides. Joe and I walked with him, till he

should find a stage; but as none overtook us and the night was fine we

walked the whole way, three or four miles, and having left Sir William

safe and sound, and seen Sir Francis Palgrave for a moment, the

remainder of the family having retired to rest, Joe and I walked back

again to town. I confess I am a little tired, and am quite willing to go

to bed. A Dieu.

Wednesday, January 23, 1839.--Breakfasted and dined with Mr. Bentham,

and studied plants with him all day and a good portion of the evening,

excepting an hour or so in the morning when we walked out, and Bentham

took me through the splendid house of the Athenæum Club, and we also

visited the National Gallery, and saw fine paintings in great numbers

from almost every artist ancient or modern. It is very near my lodgings,

and I intend to visit it again. Here are some of West’s original

pictures, and likewise the paintings or sketches of Hogarth from which

his well-known engravings were taken. They are much more expressive

than the prints. E. would enjoy many of them very much, and especially

some of Wilkie’s of the same kind.

I am to take my breakfast in my lodgings to-morrow morning, which I have

as yet done but once. I sent yesterday my letter of introduction to

William Christy, who lives out of town, and received to-day a most

polite invitation to dine with him to-morrow, and meet Hooker and Joe.

Thursday.--Breakfast at home. Call with Joe Hooker on Bransby Cooper,

and then on Sir Astley Cooper; pleasantly received, saw some very

curious preparations; spent the morning with Bentham, and dined at Mr.

Christy’s, Clapham Road, where I spent an agreeable evening. Returning,

wrote a letter to Dr. Torrey to go by mail to-morrow to Bristol for the

Great Western.

Friday evening.--I breakfasted at my lodgings this morning, and

afterwards walked out with Sir William and Joe Hooker to Regent’s Park;

went to the Coliseum to see the Panorama of London, and well worth

seeing it is. It will save me a visit to the top of the dome of St.

Paul’s, I think, for the Panorama is said to be more perfect than

nature. I will say no more about it, as Dr. Torrey has seen it. The

illusion is perfect, were it not for some unseemly cracks in the sky! We

called on Dr. Boott; then went into the City. Our object was to visit

the museum at the India House (where the poet Lamb spent so great a

portion of his life). I made the acquaintance, of Dr. Horsfield,[62] the

curator, who also collected the best part of the museum in Java and

India. He is an American, if you can so call a man who has not been in

the country since the year 1800. I was much interested with the library,

which contains a vast quantity of Indian idols, sculptures, and

antiquities, as well as fine Chinese curiosities. It is immensely rich,

also, in Indian, Persian, and Arabic manuscripts; the finest in the

world in such things. Some of the Persian (Arabic) manuscripts are most

beautifully illustrated, or illuminated, and the writing is neater than

you can conceive. Here is preserved also an original petition of the

India Company to Oliver Cromwell, with the answer in his own rough and

strong handwriting.[63] ... We dined at Lambert’s, where we found Robert

Brown, Mr. Ward,[64] who had been looking for me, and immediately asked

me to name a day to see his plants in the Wardian cases, and an evening

erelong to examine some thirty or forty first-rate microscopes which he

has in his house; also Dr. Bostock, Mr. Benson, a legal gentleman, a

great scholar and author; and last, not least, yet certainly almost the

last person I should have expected to see, Lady Charlotte Bury (formerly

Lady Charlotte Campbell), whom you will remember as the author of that

book on the secret history of the court of George IV. and his Queen, of

which we read together, that summer, the deeply interesting review by

Brougham. Lady Bury is now supposed to be sixty years old, and was for a

long time considered as the handsomest woman in Great Britain; she

still looks well, though too embonpoint, and dresses like a young lady,

with short sleeves. She is of a high family, a sister of the present

Duke of Argyll, and is certainly talented; she is said to be quite poor.

Her daughters are married into families of rank, except one (Miss Bury)

who was with her mother at Lambert’s, whom Sir William Hooker thought

remarkably handsome, but I did not. As I have not a high respect for

Lady Bury’s character I did not throw myself into her circle, and saw

almost nothing of her the whole evening. We came away early.

Saturday evening.--I paid a visit, this morning, in company with Joe

Hooker, to the Zoölogical Gardens in Regent’s Park, where we saw all

kinds of four-footed beasts, and fowl, and creeping things. There are

four giraffes, but none quite so large as those we saw in New York.

There were a very fine orangoutang, very gentle and amiable, a curious

spider-monkey, and other curious animals in great plenty. The finest

residences I have seen in London are those which look upon Regent’s

Park. Returning, we called upon Lambert, Saturday being a kind of public

day with him, and there met that Nestor of botanists, Mr. Menzies,[65]

whom I found a most pleasant and kind-hearted old man; he invited me

very earnestly to come down and see him, which I will try to do some

day. Meanwhile I expect to meet him on Tuesday at Mr. Ward’s.

We just had time to go down into the City to call on Mr. Putnam

(publisher) and to learn that copies of the “Flora” had arrived, but

were not yet cleared from the custom-house; then took the Hampstead

coach to dine at Sir Francis Palgrave’s. Excepting Hooker and Joe, I

almost forget who the guests were. I was not interested in any of them

particularly. Sir Francis was very agreeable; his conversational powers

are almost equal to his erudition. His lady, who looks very much like

Lady Hooker, is, like all that family, learned and accomplished. I was

glad also to meet Hooker’s eldest daughter.

The boys interested me much; I think I never saw more intelligent lads.

Sir Francis asked me to call at the Chapter-House, Westminster Abbey,

his office as Keeper of the Records, and he would show me the Domesday

Book. How a sight of it would electrify Dr. Barrett! He asked me at

dinner the meaning of the term locofoco as applied to a party in the

United States. I gave him the story of the meeting in Tammany Hall which

gave rise to the designation, which afforded much amusement.

Sunday evening, January 27.--I was better prepared than last Sabbath,

for I took pains to call yesterday at the office of the Religious Tract

Society, and found where Baptist Noel preached. It is St. John’s Chapel,

at considerable distance from here. Nevertheless I attended there

to-day, and have reason to be glad that I did so, for I heard a most

excellent sermon in the morning, from Psalm ciii. 10-12. Mr. Noel is a

most simple, winning preacher, and his sermon was the most thoroughly

evangelical and earnest I ever heard from an Episcopal pulpit. I wish I

could give you some idea of it. I took notes for your benefit as well as

I could, and have written them out, but they will give you a very

imperfect idea of it. The church, a large one, with double galleries

around three sides, was crowded. This afternoon his assistant, Mr.

Garwood, preached, and there was room enough, but we had a good sermon.

This Mr. Garwood, you may have seen by the papers, has lately been

persecuted a little by his bishop, for acting as secretary to the London

City Mission. Both he and Mr. Noel are doing much good in raising the

standard of piety and active benevolence in the church they belong to. I

hope by next Sunday to inquire out Dr. Reed’s church. I have not been

out this evening, but have employed myself in copying out my poor notes

on the morning sermon, which I trust soon to forward to you.

Monday evening, January 28, 1839.--I spent the morning with Bentham, by

appointment, with whom I breakfasted and looked at Leguminosæ until two

P.M.; then joined Joe Hooker (took leave of Sir William this morning,

who has returned to Glasgow, via Woburn); made calls, among others on

Dr. Rostock, who received me very politely; we then dined together at a

chop-house; called on Dr. Boott, spent an hour or two in his very

pleasant family; then attended a meeting of the Royal Geographical

Society, in which all that interested me was a paper by Professor

Robinson of New York, on some interesting matters of ancient geography

connected with his travels in Asia Minor. The paper was sent to the

Geographical Society by a learned German geographer; it excited much

interest....

London, January 24, 1839.--I have so far been seeing men and things

chiefly, but have had one or two botanical sittings with Bentham, who is

a thoroughly kind and good fellow. He immediately had all the remaining

parcels of Douglas’s Californian and Oregon plants sent down to his

house, and has supplied me as well as he could; and a valuable parcel I

shall have of them....

I have seen considerable of Brown, and like him much better than I

thought, although he is certainly peculiar. The day we breakfasted with

him we remained until four P.M., and he offered to show anything I

wished at the British Museum. He showed us all Bauer’s drawings in his

possession (I have since seen Francis Bauer). He has much more general

information than I supposed; is full of gossip, and has a great deal of

dry wit.

He is growing old fast, and I suspect works very little now, and I fear

there is not very much more work now to be expected of him. He knows

everything!...

I spent a good part of yesterday with Bentham, and was to have met

Hooker at the Geological Society in the evening; but botany prevailed

and I stayed with Bentham, and was a little sorry afterwards, as I

should have seen at the society Whewell! Daubeny! Chantry the sculptor,

etc.--I have bought a colored copy of Wallich’s “Plantæ Asiatiecæ

Rariores,” 3 vols. fol., very fine, for £15; the publishing price was

£36,--the present price by Henry Bohn, who has bought up not only this

but almost every other expensive British work on natural history, is

£26. It is not yet come round from Edinburgh. I will soon send it to

you.... I have seen the “Atakta Botanica” of Endlicher, where there is a

plate of Ungnadia (not Ungnodia, as spelled in “Companion to the

Botanical Magazine”), but no letter-press as yet....

January 30, Wednesday evening.... Yesterday morning Joe Hooker and

myself breakfasted together, and then paid a visit to Westminster Abbey,

which we examined in every part, from Poets’ Corner to Henry VII.’s

Chapel....

As we left the Abbey (where, by the way, we were most thoroughly chilled

with our long stay), we went into the Chapter House adjoining, a very

antique building crammed with old records and musty manuscripts, and Sir

Francis Palgrave kindly showed us the famous Domesday Book, which is in

a perfect state of preservation; all the writing perfectly distinct, and

so plainly executed that we could read it, here and there, with moderate

facility. He showed us a copy of a treaty made with France by Cardinal

Wolsey, of which the immense seal appended was cut in gold, and of the

most elaborate workmanship. We saw also the original papal bull sent to

Henry VIII., constituting him “Defender of the Faith”! We went from this

to Westminster Hall; saw the large room, which is very fine; looked into

the Court of Exchequer, and saw the Lord Chancellor and other judges in

their full-bottom wigs, most funny to behold, I assure you; and the

barristers with their queer horse-hair wigs, frizzled on the top of

their heads, but tied up into nice and regular curls behind, which fall

upon their shoulders. The case of the Canadian prisoners was then under

consideration. We then rode in an omnibus to the City and visited St.

Paul’s Church, which, grand as it is, does not show to advantage after

Westminster Abbey. The monumental statuary is very fine; some of it I

would mention, but the extreme lateness of the hour obliges me

discreetly to break off and finish my account of the day hereafter. Bon

soir, or rather Bon jour!

Thursday evening.... To commence where I broke off with Tuesday. We went

to dine, by appointment, with Mr. Ward, the plant-case man, at three

P.M., which hour was appointed for the purpose of showing us the

plant-cases, etc., by daylight. Ward is one of the most obliging men I

ever knew. I was perhaps a little disappointed in his plants, but this

is the very worst season of the year, particularly in London, and his

house, which is in the heart of the city, near London Docks, is very

badly situated as to light. But I have learned something from him, and

feel confident that I shall be able to manage our plant-cases much

better hereafter. Menzies was there, and a truly kind-hearted old man he

is. I was to have returned in time to spend the evening at Bentham’s,

but owing to the stormy weather I did not reach my lodgings till it was

too late. On Friday (a snowy day) I was out rather late; went to

Bentham’s, where I spent the whole morning, dined with him and Mrs.

Bentham, three in all!--they have no children, and live in the most cosy

and quiet way you could imagine--and spent the whole evening with him in

labeling plants which he selected for me from his duplicates. To-day,

Joseph Hooker having concluded to postpone till this evening his

departure for Glasgow, and having written accordingly to Ward to meet

us, we visited the famous greenhouses and conservatories of Loddiges.

Miss Maria Hooker was with us, having come out from Hampstead for the

purpose. It is rather a long ride to Hackney, but we were well repaid.

The collection of Orchideæ is immense and very beautiful, but a very

small portion is now in flower. The palm-house, ample and magnificent as

it is, rather disappointed me; it seemed not so much larger than that

of the Edinburgh garden, and the plants are not in such nice order.

Loddiges was very kind to me. Ward selected a few pretty plants for Miss

Hooker. I forgot for the moment that there was such a world of waters

between us, and was on the point of selecting some for you know whom; I

am not sure that I did not bring some after all.

Loddiges took us to his house and showed his collection of

humming-birds, which is the finest in the world. He had nearly 200

species, and usually several specimens of a kind, very beautifully

mounted and arranged. You can’t imagine how beautiful they are! They are

his great pets, and I do not wonder. I returned through the City,

stopped a few moments at the British Museum, dined with Joe Hooker at

his hotel near me, and shortly after saw him start for Glasgow. I sent

by him a copy of “Outre Mer” to Lady Hooker. At nine P.M. I went to the

meeting of the Royal Society, heard a paper read of the Hon. Fox

Talbot’s on the power of objects not only to sit for, but to draw their

own portraits, which has just been making a great noise in France. It is

done by the influence of the light of the sun upon paper prepared by

nitrate or chloride of silver. Talbot seems to have found out all about

it long ago, but the French have published first. I will write the

doctor more particularly about it, and send the “Athenæum” containing

the account when it appears.

I have neglected to say that I received two days ago a very kind note

from Lindley inviting me to come down to his place, dine with him on

Sunday next, stay all night, spend Monday at his herbarium, and meet a

few botanical friends at dinner, and return next morning. I declined of

course the invitation as far as it related to Sunday, but accepted it

for Monday, and offered to get down to Turnham Green in time to

breakfast with him. This morning I received another note from him,

pointing out the way in which I may reach his house in time. I have also

a letter from Francis Bauer, inclosing some European Infusoria, in

return for a few of Bailey’s I gave him. I will send a portion to

Professor Bailey.

Friday evening, February 1.--I spent the earliest part of the morning in

my own room; then went to Lambert’s, and commenced the examination of

Pursh’s plants. After dining in a simple way by myself, I went to

Bentham’s, by appointment, to spend the evening in looking out duplicate

plants. I found him and Mrs. B. sitting cosily together in the study. We

had a cup of tea and some chat, and then fell to work until half past

eleven, when I came away walking as usual by Westminster Abbey, of which

I often get very good nocturnal views.

Saturday evening, February 2.... Brown has been very kind to me, in his

peculiar way. I have seen him but twice since Hooker and I breakfasted

with him, but I hope soon to be at work at the British Museum and to see

more of him. He is very fond of gossip at his own fireside, and amused

us extremely with his dry wit, but in company he is silent and reserved.

I have found out also that it does not do to ask him directly any

question about plants. He is, as old Menzies told us, the driest pump

imaginable. But although he will not bear direct squeezing, yet by

coaxing and very careful management any one he has confidence in may get

a good deal out of him. He tells me that Petalanthera, Nutt., is a

published genus, and promises to give me all the information about it I

desire. I asked him some question about the manner in which the vessels

of ferns uncoil. He at once remarked, “They unroll like a ribbon”!

Quekett has been examining them, so has a botanist in India; all are

much interested in them. I placed Bailey’s specimens afterwards in his

hands and also some of the Infusoria, which he expressed himself much

pleased with when I saw him at Lambert’s. By the way, the Infusoria were

sent by Bailey himself. I delivered also the parcel for Lindley, and

gave the rest I had mostly to Dr. Roget, Mr. Lyell,[66] and Francis

Bauer, who were all very glad to get them. I have saved a few for Mr.

Ward’s microscopical party which he is to give on Wednesday of week

after next.... I shall also order, for Sullivant, Hooker’s “Icones

Plantarum,” which will be continued, as Hooker furnishes all the matter

for nothing and gives the plates, finding paper and everything. Although

there is not so much detail as I could wish, yet it is becoming a very

valuable collection for a student of natural orders....

Monday evening.--I have seen the original Taxus nucifera, of Thunberg,

both leaves and fruit. Arnott should have paid more attention to it. It

is very like Torreya! and doubtless a congener,--and so Brown

insinuates. I will see more about it soon. A new edition of Lindley’s

“Introduction to Botany” is preparing! Sullivant wants, I suppose, a

microscope of single lenses--a good working instrument--and an

achromatic. This last I think I shall procure for him in London, where

they produce more perfect instruments than the French. Can you send

Bentham the Lindernias? He wishes much to examine them; send good

corollas.

Arnott seems to think much more of Nees von Esenbeck than anybody else.

It is generally thought he is in his dotage, and a sad, very sad

splitter of straws....

I had some thoughts of going to Paris via Leyden, to see if I can coax

anything out of Blume, but he seems to have behaved rather strangely to

all the English botanists I have yet met with. You ask whom I liked best

in Scotland: Hooker is all in all!

A new Antarctic expedition is planned; indeed is settled upon nearly, to

be commanded by James Ross. But a part of the administration throw

difficulties in the way. If it goes Joseph Hooker is to be the

naturalist.... By the way, Corda’s “Memoir on Impregnation of Plants”

turns out to be mere humbug, and it seems there is little dependence to

be placed upon him....

Tell Bailey I am every day getting information that will be valuable to

him, in the microscopical way. I have a new correspondent for him, Mr.

Edwin J. Quekett,[67] 50 Wellclose Square, London, an excellent

microscopist. I will write soon what he wants, and he will send through

me some microscopical objects.

P. S.--I have just had the offer of a chance to examine Walter’s

herbarium as much as I like!--to take it into my possession for a week

if I like! and that after I had nearly given up all hopes of it.

February 5, eleven o’clock, evening.... I think I mentioned in those

letters how yesterday was spent, viz., that I rose early, took

stagecoach for Turnham Green, near Chiswick, where Lindley resides,

breakfasted and spent the day. Lindley was certainly very civil. Mrs.

Lindley is a quiet lady of plain manners and apparently very domestic

habits. Miss Drake, whose name appears as the artist in all of Lindley’s

plates almost, was present, and is, I judge, a member of his family, and

perhaps a relative of Mrs. Lindley. I saw Lindley’s splendid “Sertum

Orchidaceum,” and a much more luxurious work, the “Orchidaceæ of Mexico

and Guatemala,” by Bateman, a very large-paper work à l’Audubon. We

looked over some families together in a desultory way, and I took up the

Lupines and compared ours carefully with Lindley’s, which were named by

Agardh. At dinner met Dr. Quekett and Mr. Miers,[68] a traveler in

Brazil. On reaching my room I found a note from Bell, the zoölogist (to

whom I brought a letter from John Carey, but left at his house, not

being able to see him), inviting me dine as his guest at the Linnæan

Club, before the meeting of the Linnæan Society. Fortunately, as I do

not like club-dinners, I had previously accepted Bentham’s invitation to

dine quietly with him and Mrs. B. on that day, so I sent a note of

declinature. I have already told you of my failure, by my own

carelessness, of seeing the opening of Parliament, which I regret, as I

should like to see the peers in official costume, and the peeresses in

full dress.

It did not break my heart, but I returned to Bentham’s and looked over

plants until the hour approached to take my place in the park to see the

queen, and--what is finer--her superb horses, with what success I have

already said; thence to the Horticultural Society, where I received the

welcome letters. After dispatching my parcel of letters I took a cab

for Bentham’s, as it was raining finely, where we dined in his quiet,

elegant way. I don’t think Dr. Torrey saw enough of him, at least in his

own house, to appreciate him fully....

You may well infer from my being so much with him that he is my

favorite....

Wednesday evening.--After breakfast to-day I went to Lambert’s, thinking

to finish nearly the examination of Pursh’s plants, but I found Lambert

on the point of going out, though the morning was unpleasant. So I was

obliged to retrace my steps; and as a dernier ressort I went to the

British Museum, and commenced my examination of the Banksian Herbarium.

Brown was there most of the time, but did very little except to read the

newspaper and crack his jokes. I broke off at four o’clock; went down to

the City, called on Mr. Putnam, took a parcel of late American

newspapers away with me, dined, went up to Dr. Boott’s, where I spent

the evening so pleasantly that eleven o’clock arrived before I thought

of it. It is now twelve. On my return here I found my parcel had arrived

from Edinburgh, the beautiful copy of Wallich’s work, a very complete

and pretty set of British Algæ from Dr. Greville, and some letters of

introduction for the Continent which he has obligingly favored me with.

I must write a letter of thanks to-morrow....

Went to Ward’s to see the tunnel.... We had tea, Miss and Mrs. Ward

regaled us with music,--and both play extremely well; then Ward and I

looked over plants until nearly half past ten, when we had supper, a

very substantial one, and I took my leave, arriving at my lodgings a

little after twelve....

Sunday evening, February 10.... This morning I attended one of the

larger Methodist chapels, where I heard an excellent sermon from 1 Pet.

v. 7: “Casting all your care upon him; for he careth for you.” A portion

of the Episcopal service was read at the beginning from the desk; but

afterwards the clergyman ascended to the pulpit, when the singing and

prayers were in the ordinary manner. In the afternoon I went to hear my

old favorite Baptist Noel, who was to preach a kind of charity sermon

for the infant-schools of St. Clement’s, Danes. I felt satisfied that we

should have a close and fervent sermon, and truly I was not

disappointed.... He preaches ex tempore, but has the most perfect

facility of language; the words drop from his mouth without any apparent

effort, but he never repeats, and all seems equally important; so unless

I could write as fast as he speaks I could give you no proper idea of

his discourse. His manner is so exceedingly placid that you wonder how

he fixes the attention of his auditors so perfectly. There are many

other clergymen who have the same ardent piety, and the number I hope is

increasing; so that one cannot help expecting great things from this

communion, if it once gets free from the contaminating influence of the

political power. These men all preach continually to crowded houses,

which is another good sign, and proves that the people are ready to hear

sound doctrine. I hoped to have heard another of the same stamp this

evening, and went all the way to St. Sepulere’s, where Mr. Dale preaches

in the evening, but he was out of town....

February 5, evening.--It is not long since I closed a parcel of letters

for you, and dispatched them by mail to Liverpool, for the steamship

Liverpool, by which I hope they will reach you early. I have since

attended a meeting of the Linnæan Society, Mr. Forster in the chair.

Lambert never comes now for fear of meeting Don, and also because he is

a little piqued, perhaps at not being made president. Brown seldom

comes, as he would have to take the chair in Lambert’s absence, and he

fears he might annoy Lambert, for Brown is extremely tender of other

persons’ feelings. I was most interested in the nominations to fill up

the five vacancies of the foreign associates. They were Carus,

Milne-Edwards, Dutrochet, Endlicher, and Torrey. The nomination was

signed by Bentham, Brown, Boott, Forster, Owen, etc. I knew nothing of

it till just before the meeting, and I may be allowed to say that I felt

extremely gratified at such a very handsome compliment paid to my best

friend.

Lindley has given me to-day a copy of Griffith’s most admirable paper in

the last part of the “Transactions Linnæan Society,” on the ovula of

Santalum, Loranthuns, Viscum, etc., an anatomical paper of the very

highest order,--about forty pages, with eleven fine plates. I am going

to buy all the other papers on Botany in the Linnæean Transactions which

I think valuable. They can be had of Coxhead, who buys sets and pulls

them to pieces to sell separately. Let me not forget to tell you that,

after having made diligent inquiry of Brown, Bentham, etc., I had nearly

given up all hopes of finding Walter’s[69] herbarium. I spoke to Lindley

yesterday, and he said he knew the son of old Fraser, who would be most

apt to know something about it, and would give me his address, by which

I could find him if in town. But to-day, just after the adjournment of

the Horticultural Society, and while I was glancing over your kind

letters, Lindley came to say that he had found Walter’s herbarium for

me! He introduced me to Mr. Fraser, to whom it belongs, though not

immediately in his possession, who offered to send it up for my

examination to the Horticultural Society’s rooms, or anywhere I chose. I

hope to get at it, with Bentham, about Friday. I shall be anxious to let

you know the result....

I am most clearly of the opinion that any person who will make extensive

collections of North American plants, both Northern and Southern, and

include also a good collection from Santa Fé, the Platte country, etc.,

have his sets named according to our work, and who would devote four or

five years to the business, could, if he were really industrious and

prudent, realize $1000 per annum (clear). He should continue my

grass-book for one thing, giving loose sets only for the present price,

and while from time to time he sells off collections as he can, should

retain some fifty sets in all the most interesting genera or small

families, get all the species, and publish them in monographic sets.

Knieskern could make, with the aid we would gladly furnish, at least ten

times as much money, as long as he lives, as he ever will at physic,

besides being engaged in a much pleasanter way. I know how all this

should be managed now. Now for Dr. Clapp. Tell him that Brown informs me

that he does not think jewel lenses can be depended upon as possessing

any advantage over glass. He has an excellent sapphire one, but that is

a mere chance, and no other has been made anything like it. They are now

almost never made, and appear to be going wholly out of use. His other

matters I will take in hand, but he must not expect $20 to procure a

doublet 1/40th inch focus, two micrometer glasses, and a case of

dissecting instruments. I have some engagements before me with

microscopical people, and when I get from them all the information I

can, I will set about these affairs more understandingly....

Saturday evening, February 9.--I have been engaged nearly the whole day

upon the herbarium you so much wished to examine, viz., that of Walter.

I have not yet finished it, and find the examination very tedious, as

the specimens are very often not labeled, except with the genus in his

“Flora,” so that I have first to make out his own species, and then what

they are of succeeding authors.

The specimens are mostly mere bits, pasted down in a huge folio volume.

I suspect this was done by Fraser, and the labels have sometimes been

exchanged, so that it requires no little patience. Some of the things I

most wished to see are not in the collection, and there are several in

the collection which are not mentioned in the “Flora.” You would laugh

to see what some of the things are that have puzzled us: thus, for

instance, his “Cucubalus polypetalus” is Saponaria officinalis! His

“Dianthus Carolinianus” is Frasera! in fruit. I will soon send you my

notes on the collection, or a copy of them. Bentham looked over the

Leguminosæ, Labiatæ, etc., with me. I have had two sittings at Pursh,

but have not yet finished; I hope another day will do it, but am not

certain. I shall still require about three days more at the British

Museum, two at the Linnæan Society, and one at Lindley’s. An evening or

two at Bentham’s will suffice to certify his Labiatæ, Scrophularinæ,

etc. I must also have a day with Brown, if I can get it at his own

house. I hope very nearly to finish this next week, if life and health

are continued....

February 12, 1839.--I am fearful even another day will not see the end

of Lambert’s collection, and I suspect a week is none too little for the

British Museum. Lady Charlotte Bury came into Lambert’s and had a long

chat with him; such a pair of originals! She is to dine with Lambert on

Sunday, but stipulated early, as she always made it a point to read

prayers to her servants on Sunday evening!

February 13, Wednesday evening, or rather one o’clock, Thursday.--Rose

and breakfasted at eight, which is become my regular practice; started

for Lambert’s at ten, where I worked incessantly till five P.M.;

returned to my room; dressed; went to the City, where I dined, and about

eight o’clock arrived at Ward’s, whose microscopical party this evening

was given chiefly on my account. Some eight or more splendid microscopes

were in active use when I arrived; and the greater portion of the chief

microscopic people were there. I was introduced to Stokes, Solly, Powel,

Bowerbank[70].... Also Mr. Quekett, whom I knew before, and several

amateurs, such as Boott, Bennett, Bentham, Don, were present. It was a

feast to me, you may be sure, and I acquired some useful knowledge, and

saw some strange things: the infusoria in flint; queer fossil woods,

which are all the rage here, and are extremely curious; fibrocellular

tissue, the most beautiful thing you can imagine. One of the best of the

microscopists, Mr. Bowerbank, gave me one or two curious microscopical

objects, which he had mounted for himself, and made an appointment with

me and another friend to meet him on Monday evening next, to examine his

microscopes and curious objects more quietly and at large than could be

done in a crowd, and to prepare some specimens for me. Mr. Reade, a

gentleman who was invited, but was prevented from attending, was so kind

as to send me a copy of his paper on the Infusoria and Scales of Fishes

found in Flint, with proof impressions which are far superior to those

in the “Annals of Natural History.” ...

Tuesday evening, February 19.--Three days have passed since I have

written a line for you. This suspension was occasioned by my late hours

last night. After spending the morning at the Horticultural Society,

then going into the City, where I dined, then going far out on the

Mile-End Road to deliver a letter intrusted to me by Mr. Scatcherd, then

returning as far as the Bank, I went again, partly by omnibus and partly

on my legs, almost as far in the northern outskirts of the town, to

spend an evening with Mr. Bowerbank, one of the best microscopists in

London, who owns the best microscope. I found so much to see that I did

not get away until past twelve, and then I had a walk before me almost

the whole length of London,--from New North Road to Charing Cross. I had

an opportunity of seeing, what was especially promised me, the camera

lucida applied to the microscope; an invaluable invention for an awkward

person like me, as I am convinced I could with a very little practice

turn out very fair outline sketches of objects I might be examining. I

acquired much information on various subjects; saw some most curious and

unique specimens of vegetable structure, and particularly of fossil

fruits, of which Mr. Bowerbank possesses an invaluable collection;

capsules, which we broke open, and examined not only the seed, with its

testa, raphe, and funiculus, but even the pulp which surrounded it. I

looked at many of his specimens of recent and fossil wood, at his

unrivaled cabinet of British fossils, and when our party broke up, there

was still so much left that we made an appointment for another

evening.... Mr. Bentham, Mr. Brydges, and I went to the Linnæan Society;

the president, the Bishop of Norwich, was in the chair,--an amiable old

gentleman. Boott, Yarrell, Ward, Royle, Forster, et multis aliis, were

present. Mr. Forster[71] invited Dr. Boott and me to fix a day to visit

him at his residence, some miles in the country, and dine with him. He

is greatly esteemed, and is said to be one of the most kind-hearted and

benevolent of men. I am now engaged, I believe, for every day and

evening of this week, and half of next, and am busy enough, I assure

you....

Friday evening, February 22.--I ought hardly to use the date of Friday

evening, as it is close upon one o’clock of Saturday morning. But I must

not neglect my journal, and shall therefore give you a few hasty lines

ere I prepare for rest. I passed yesterday morning at the British

Museum, that is, until near three o’clock. I then hurried to my

lodgings, snatched a hasty dinner by the way, and went to the House of

Commons, Mr. Bentham having, through Dr. Romily, the speaker’s clerk,

procured me an order of admittance within the body of the house, where I

had the finest opportunity for hearing and seeing. There was nothing

very important brought before the house, yet on different subjects

nearly all the leading officers of the administration took the floor,

Mr. Rice, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, Lord John Russell, who is

evidently a man of most ready talent and tact, Lord Palmerston, Lord

Morpeth, the new member of the cabinet, etc. I was exceedingly amused by

the manner in which Lord John Russell worsted a Colonel Sibthorpe, an

opposition member, who moved certain resolutions relative to Lord

Durham’s expenses, couched in an offensive manner, and made a still more

objectionable speech. Lord J. Russell, in very placid manner, set him

out in such a ridiculous light, that the gallant colonel first lost his

temper completely, and then lost his point, being obliged to withdraw

his own resolutions. I heard also, for a moment, Sir Robert Peel, Dr.

Lushington, Mr. Hume, and others too tedious to enumerate. As to general

decorum, or the manner in which members often treat each other in

debate, I don’t think we have much to learn....

I spent this morning at the British Museum; dined with Mr. Putnam at a

chop-house, and went to spend the evening at Mr. Quekett’s. I found,

instead of having the evening alone as I expected and wished, that he

had invited several friends, most of whom I knew. Still, after tea the

microscopes were produced, and I had the opportunity of examining very

many curious things.

If they don’t get out of my head in the mean time I will try to mention

some of them to Dr. Torrey when I go on with my letter to him. As eating

is a very important matter here, we had a magnificent supper at half

past ten, and it was near twelve when I left, with a walk of four miles

before me....

Saturday evening.--This has been a busy and somewhat interesting day

with me. I rose early, went down to Bentham’s to breakfast, stayed until

eleven o’clock, and then went up to Brown’s house to spend the morning,

according to previous appointment. We talked profound botanical matters,

and Brown not only amused and interested me, but gave me much valuable

information. He talks of visiting America, possibly next summer, and I

have promised to plan him a route. I left him about four o’clock,

returned to my lodgings, dressed hastily, took a Kensington omnibus, and

reached old Mr. Menzies’ little place at five. Mr. Ward, who was to meet

us, was not there. We left at half past ten, and walked all the way

back, about four miles. So here I am safe again. I read over the

doctor’s short letter again. I am trying to imagine how Herbert looks

now. He has probably changed very much since I parted from him. I have a

very especial love for that little fellow.[72] I must find time to write

to the girls, yet fear I shall scarcely be able until I have left

London. Tell them I think of them daily even if I cannot write them. As

to M’s French letter, it is not due until I get to France; but that

will, I trust, be soon. Adieu. Good-night.

Sunday, February 24. I was fortunate this morning in being able to hear

a man I had heard spoken of, and of whom I had formed a high opinion:

the Rev. Thomas Dale, Vicar of St. Bride’s, who also preaches in the

evening at St. Sepulcre’s. He preached from the first part of Luke vii.

47: “Her sins, which are many, are forgiven; for she loved much.” The

discourse was truly evangelical and impressive. He is the best preacher

I have heard in England next to Mr. Noel, and is more eloquent and

striking in manner than he, but has not the gentle pathos and sweetness

of Noel....

Tuesday evening, February 26.... Met Mr. Putnam[73] at half past four.

We had arranged beforehand that he should attempt to procure some orders

for admittance to the House of Lords, and that we should go down

together. I found he had been successful, having sent his clerk with

notes to some half dozen peers in order to make sure, and he thus

obtained more orders than he wanted. For me I found he had addressed a

note in my name to the Bishop of London, who very promptly sent me an

order of admittance.

We set out accordingly. The room which is occupied by the House of Lords

temporarily, until the New Houses of Parliament are built, is inferior

in size and accommodation to that of the Commons; indeed there is

nothing about it at all remarkable. There was no business of very

absorbing interest before the House this evening, and it adjourned as

early as eight. Still I had the good fortune to hear nearly all those

speak that I particularly cared for except Wellington (who is sick) and

Earl Durham. I heard a long speech from Brougham and a very good one,

except that he took occasion to trumpet his own good works. There was

some fine sparring between an Irish lord I do not remember, Lord Roden,

Lord Westmeath, and Lord Normanby, the late viceroy of Ireland, a young

man apparently, and a man of talent, Melbourne, and Minto; the lord

chancellor, Denman the chief justice, Sir James Scarlett, old Lord

Holland, etc., also spoke. The word “lengthy,” which was not long since

called an Americanism, seems to be pretty well naturalized, as Brougham

used it several times, and Scarlett more than once. Lord Palmerston the

other evening used the word “ disculpate” instead of “exculpate,” which

I fancy is rather modern English....

Friday evening, 12 o’clock, March 1.--I have just returned from a most

pleasant evening and day, as I may say, spent at Mr. Forster’s beautiful

residence on the border of Epping Forest, Essex (Woodford), about ten

miles from here. He is an old man, a banker, one of the oldest

vice-presidents of the Linnæan Society, one of the most kind-hearted

men, exceedingly beloved. He lives in an elegant but very unostentatious

way, in a most beautiful part of the country, the very perfection of

English scenery. He is said to be extremely benevolent, and to do a

world of good....

Saturday evening.--Immediately after breakfast this morning I went down

to Bentham, whom I had not seen for a week; spent two or three hours

there, returned again to my lodgings, went to the City, took an early

dinner with Mr. Putnam, and then we went together in an omnibus to

Hackney; saw Loddiges’ extensive collections of fine plants again,

lovely Orchideæ. The Camellias, of which he has a large house filled

with magnificent trees, were not yet in bloom.

... We walked across this eastern part of the city down to the Tower,

entered the gates and walked over the grounds. It was too late to get

entrance to the armory or any of the interesting places, as the light

was beginning to fail. I went back to Mr. Ward’s, at Well-close Square,

according to promise, to name some plants for him, but Dr.

Valentine,[74] a most ingenious vegetable anatomist and microscopist,

being in town (had previously met him at Lindley’s), Mr. Ward had

foregone his own advantage and invited Valentine and Quekett to meet me

with their microscopes, so that the evening was very instructive to me,

which I had not anticipated. Mr. Ward seems to have taken a fancy to me,

for I can hardly imagine that he takes so much pains to oblige every

one, absorbed as he is also in medical practice. He presented me with a

beautiful botanical digger of fine polished steel, with a leathern

sheath, which I suspect he has had made on purpose for me; though I

don’t know why he should have thought of it. Mrs. Ward was inquiring

about the Abbotts and their works, one of which she had, which makes her

wish for more. I am often asked about Mr. Abbott, whose works seem much

more generally known here than those of any other American religious

author. I must find some for Mrs. Ward.

Sunday evening, March 3.--I went this morning to hear, perhaps for the

last time, Baptist Noel. The sermon was from the last three verses of

the same psalm (Ps. ciii.) from which he has preached on the former

occasions when I have heard him in his own church; and truly a good

sermon it was. I have told you that the chapel is a large one. Yet it is

so well filled that I have always had some difficulty in getting a seat,

and to-day I actually stood near the pulpit during the whole service and

sermon. But it is worth while submitting to some inconvenience. In the

afternoon I walked up to Tottenham Court Road, and looked up the chapel

built by Whitfield, the scene of his useful labors in London. If you

read, as I think you did, Philip’s “Life of Whitfield,” you must take

some interest in this place.[75] I found the chapel a large but

outlandish building, with an inscription over one of the entrances,

stating that the building was erected by George Whitfield. Within is a

tablet to the memory of Mrs. Whitfield, who is buried here, and a

monumental inscription to Whitfield himself (which I regret I did not

copy), mentioning the date of his death at Newburyport, near Boston. The

preacher this afternoon (for I believe there is more than one who

officiates here) was the Rev. Mr. Wight, who gave an impressive,

practical sermon from the concluding clause of the last verse of Romans

viii.: “The love of God which is in Christ Jesus our Lord.” It was, I

think, rather above his audience, which I am sorry to say was

exceedingly small. Indeed I hope it is generally better filled, but I

should not have expected so great a falling off in the attendance of

plain unfashionable people in the afternoon. These Whitfieldians are,

one would think, farther separated from the Established Church than

Wesleyans (which was certainly not the case in Whitfield’s time, who

refused to take any steps to establish a sect apart from the Church of

England); for in the Wesleyan chapel I attended the liturgy was read,

but here we had none of it. Only last summer I read a biography of

Whitfield with much attention; and it was very interesting to worship in

this chapel of his. It recalls more interesting associations than

Westminster Abbey or any vast and splendid cathedral. But I must bid

you good-night, purposing to rise early and have an hour or so before

the pressing business of the day is commenced to write another sheet to

you and our good Dr. Torrey, to whom I have so much to say, if I could

ever find time for it.

Friday.--I have been to-day at the British Museum, studying from the

specimens of Plukenet, Catesby, Miller, etc., etc., the authority for

old Linnæan species in Ilex, Prinos, Eupatorium, etc. It is slow and

tedious work, and I shall not have time to do so much of it as I could

wish. Brown told me to-day about Petalanthera. It is Cevallis, Lagasca,

Hortus Matritensis, and very probably his species, even C. sinuata. It

came from New Spain. You will see Lindley is all astray about the genus,

and no one knows its affinities even, but Brown. Lagasca himself refers

it to Boragineæ. It is true Loaseæ. I was this evening at Bentham’s, and

found he had a specimen of C. sinuata from Hooker, collected by Brydges

in Mexico, I think. I have asked Brown to give us some notes on the

subject, a generic character, etc., that we may publish a little from

his own pen. I am to spend a day with him next week, and I will try to

get something out of him. He hinted to me some days ago that he knew

something about Cyrilla, but I could not get it out of him. I’ll try

again. He tells me he has a character to distinguish true Rhexia, which

has escaped Don, De Candolle, etc. We must find it out. Bentham has

given me his “Scrophulariæ Indicæ,” and the three last parts of his

“Labiatæ;” I have bought the rest (£1 2s. 6d.), and last evening we

looked over his North American specimens, and the notes in his copy. He

gave me also, the other day, the only published part of the “Plantæ

Hugelianæ” and a few other pamphlets. He is a liberal soul.

I have got so far behind in my botanical news that I despair of bringing

up arrears, and must leave very much to tell you in propria persona, if

we meet again. I fancy I have not very much new to learn on the

Continent about microscopes and modes of working. I have seen much of

all the best people here, last not least Valentine, who lives in the

country, from whom I have derived much useful knowledge. He works to

some account, which can’t be said of most here, who, though they have

the best instruments in the world, don’t turn them to any important

account. As to Sullivant, tell him to have great patience. I can get him

a capital simple microscope by Ross for six guineas, but I want to get

as useful a one for him cheaper, so I shall wait till I have been on the

Continent, I think. My plan is to purchase at Paris for him, where the

low powers are good as can be, and supply a lens or two here....

Chapmannia (!) exists in Bartram’s old collection here, which you saw at

British Museum, and some other very lately published things.

I bought a copy of “Flora” for Bennett the other day, thinking it worth

while to offer him something, as I was taking up much of his time.

To-day he gave me a copy of the published part of the “Plantæ Javanicæ

Rariores,” (£2 10s., plain, is the publishing price), an invaluable

work, containing very many notes and observations on various genera,

etc., both by Brown and himself, which it is quite necessary we should

see. The notes I have made for the last few days are not now before me,

so that I cannot now give you any remarks. There is no one thing of very

considerable importance, but much small matter. By the way, let me say

that Bennett thinks that Brown thinks Romanzovia to be hydrophyllaceous!

Bentham would give something to know this, but I shall keep it to

myself. I have made out the remainder of Pursh’s doubtful Arenarias and

Stellarias front the Banks herbarium. The parcel of Solidagos, etc.,

sent to care of Mr. Putnam, I am glad to say, came to hand. It did not

arrive until last week, however....