Plan of our future Proceedings.--Course to the Southward, alone the Coast
of Kamtschatka.--Cape Lopatka.--Pass the Islands Shoomska and Paramousir.--
Driven to the Eastward of the Kuriles.--Singular Situation with respect to
the pretended Discoveries of former Navigators.--Fruitless Attempts to
reach the Islands North of Japan.--Geographical Conclusions.--View of the
Coast of Japan.--Run along the East Side.--Pass two Japanese Vessels.--
Driven off the Coast by contrary Winds.--Extraordinary Effect of
Currents.--Steer for the Bashees.--Pass large Quantities of Pumice Stone.--
Discover Sulphur Island.--Pass the Pratas.--Isles of Lema, and Ladrone
Island.--Chinese Pilot taken on board the Resolution.--Journals of the
Officers and Men secured.[92]
Our instructions from the Board of Admiralty having left a discretionary
power with the commanding-officer of the expedition, in case of failure in
the search of a passage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return
to England, by whatever route he should think best for the farther
improvement of geography, Captain Gore demanded of the principal officers
their sentiments, in writing, respecting the manner in which these orders
might most effectually be obeyed. The result of our opinions, which he had
the satisfaction to find unanimous, and entirely coinciding with his own,
was, that the condition of the ships, of the sails, and cordage, made it
unsafe to attempt, at so advanced a season of the year, to navigate the sea
between Japan and Asia; which would otherwise have afforded the largest
field for discovery; that it was therefore adviseable to keep to the
eastward of that island, and in our way thither to run along the Kuriles,
and examine more particularly the islands that lie nearest the northern
coast of Japan, which are represented as of a considerable size, and
independent of the Russian and Japanese governments. Should we be so
fortunate as to find in these any safe and commodious harbours, we
conceived they might be of importance, either as places of shelter for any
future navigators, who may be employed in exploring the seas, or as the
means of opening a commercial intercourse among the neighbouring dominions
of the two empires. Our next object was to survey the coast of the Japanese
Islands, and afterward to make the coast of China, as far to the northward
as we were able, and run along it to Macao.
This plan being adopted, I received orders from Captain Gore, in case of
separation, to proceed immediately to Macao; and at six o'clock in the
evening of the 9th of October, having cleared the entrance of Awatska Bay,
we steered to the S.E., with the wind N.W. and by W. At midnight we had a
dead calm, which continued till noon of the 10th; the light-house at this
time bearing N. 1/2 W., distant five leagues, and Cape Gavareea, S. by W.
1/2 W. Being luckily in soundings of sixty and seventy fathoms water, we
employed our time very profitably in catching cod, which were exceedingly
fine and plentiful; and at three in the afternoon, a breeze sprung up from
the W., with which we stood along the coast to the southward. A head-land,
bearing S. by W., now opened with Cape Gavareea, lying about seven leagues
beyond it. Between them are two narrow, but deep inlets, which may probably
unite behind what appears to be an high island. The coast of these inlets
is steep and cliffy. The hills break abruptly, and form chasms and deep
vallies, which are well wooded. Between Cape Gavareea (which lies in
latitude 52° 21', longitude 158° 38') and Awatska Bay, there are
appearances of several inlets, which at first sight may flatter the mariner
with hopes of finding shelter and safe anchorage; but the Russian pilots
assured us, that there are none capable of admitting vessels of the
smallest size, as the low land fills up the spaces that appear vacant
between the high projecting head-lands. Toward evening, it again became
calm; but at midnight we had a light breeze from the N., which increased
gradually to a strong gale; and at noon the next day we found ourselves in
latitude 52° 4', longitude 158° 31', when Cape Gavareea bore N. by W. 1/4,
W.; the south extreme, S.W. 1/2 W. We were at this time distant from the
nearest shore about three leagues, and saw the whole country inland covered
with snow. A point of land to the southward, which we place in latitude 51°
54', formed the north side of a deep bay, called Achachinskoi, in the
distant bottom of which we supposed a large river to empty itself, from the
land behind being so unusually low. South of Achachinskoi Bay, the land is
not so rugged and barren as that part of the country which we had before
passed.
During the night we had variable winds and rain; but at four in the morning
of the 12th, it began to blow so strong from the N.E., as to oblige us to
double reef the top-sails, and make it prudent to stand more off the shore.
At six, the weather becoming more moderate and fair, we again made sail,
and stood in for the land. At noon, our latitude was 51° 0', longitude 157°
25'. The northernmost land in sight, being the point we have mentioned as
first opening with Cape Gavareea, bore N.N.E. A head-land, with a flat top,
which is in latitude 51° 27', and makes the south point of an inlet, called
Girowara, bore N. 1/4 E.,.and the southernmost land in sight, W.3/4 N.,
distant six leagues. At this time we could just perceive low land
stretching from the southern extreme; but the wind veering round to the
N.W., we could not get a nearer view of it. At six in the afternoon we saw,
from the mast-head, Cape Lopatka, the southernmost extremity of
Kamtschatka. It is a very low flat cape, sloping gradually from the high
level land that we saw at noon, and bore W.N., about five leagues distant;
and the high land, N.W. by W. 1/2 W. As this point of land forms so marked
an object in the geography of the eastern coast of Asia, we were glad to be
able, by an accurate observation, and several good angles, to determine its
precise situation, which is in latitude 51° 0', longitude 156° 45'. To the
N.W. of it we saw a remarkably high mountain, the top of which loses itself
in the clouds; and, at the same time, the first of the Kurile Islands,
called Shoomska, appeared in sight, bearing W. 1/2 S. The passage between
this island and Cape Lopatka, the Russians describe as being three miles
broad, and very dangerous on account of the rapidity of the tides, and the
sunk rocks that are off the cape. From Cape Gavareea to Lopatka, the coast
trends S.E. South of Achachinskoi, the land is not so high and broken as
between that bay and the mouth of Awatska, being only of a moderate
elevation toward the sea, with hills gradually rising farther back in the
country. The coast is steep and bold, and full of white chalky patches.
At noon, the weather falling again to a calm, afforded us an opportunity of
catching some fine cod. We were, at this time, in forty fathoms water, and
about five or six leagues from Cape Lopatka. Both in the fore and
afternoon, we had observations, with different compasses, for the
variation, and found it to be 5° 20' E.
We stood on all night, under an easy sail, to the S.S.W., having the wind
westerly. At midnight we sounded, and had sixty fathoms; and, at day-break
of the 13th, we saw the second of the Kurile Islands, (called by the
Russians Paramousir,) extending from N.W. by W. to W. 1/2 S. This land is
very high, and almost entirely covered with snow. At noon, the extremes
bore from N.N.W. 1/2 W. to W.N.W. 1/2 W.; and a high peaked mountain, from
which some thought they saw smoke issuing, N.W. by W. 1/2 W., about twelve
or fourteen leagues distant. At this time our latitude, by observation, was
49° 49', and our longitude 157° O'. In the course of the day we saw many
gulls and albatrosses, and several whales.
Paramousir is the largest of the Kuriles under the dominion of Russia, and
well deserves a more accurate survey, than we were at this time allowed to
take. For, in the afternoon, the gale increasing from the W., we were never
able to approach it nearer than we had done at noon; and were, therefore,
obliged to be contented with endeavouring to ascertain its situation at
that distance. We place the S. end of the island in latitude 49° 58', the
N. end in latitude 50° 46', and in longitude 10' W. of Lopatka; and as this
position is found not to differ materially from that given by the Russians,
it is probably very near the truth. Whilst we were abreast of this island,
we had a very heavy swell from the N.E., though the wind had, for some
time, been from the westward, a circumstance which we have already remarked
more than once during the course of our voyage. In the night we tried for
soundings, but found no ground with fifty fathoms of line.
On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing steadily and fresh from the
westward, we were obliged to stand to the southward; and consequently
hindered from seeing any more of the Kurile Islands. At noon of the 16th,
the latitude, by observation, was 45° 27', the longitude, deduced from a
number of lunar observations taken during the three days past, 155° 3O'.
The variation 4° 30' E. In this situation, we were almost surrounded by the
supposed discoveries of former navigators, and uncertain to which we should
turn ourselves. To the southward and the S.W. were placed, in the French
charts, a group of five islands, called the Three Sisters, Zellany and
Kunashir. We were about ten leagues, according to the same maps, to the
westward of the land of De Gama, which we had passed to the eastward in
April last, at a distance rather less than this, without seeing any
appearance of it; from which circumstance we may now conclude, that, if
such land exist at all, it must be an island of a very inconsiderable
size.[93] On the other hand, if we give credit to the original position of
this land, fixed by Texiera, it lay to the W. by S.; and as the Company's
Land,[94] Staten Island,[95] and the famous land of Jeso,[96] were also
supposed to lie nearly in the same direction, together with the group first
mentioned, according to the Russian charts, we thought this course deserved
the preference, and accordingly hauled round to the westward, the wind
having shifted in the afternoon to the northward. During this day we saw
large flocks of gulls, several albatrosses, fulmars, and a number of fish,
which our sailors called grampuses; but, as far as we could judge, from the
appearance of those that passed close by the ships, we imagined them to be
the _kasatka_, or sword-fish, described by Krascheninnikoff, to whom I
refer the reader, for a curious account of the manner in which they attack
the whales. In the evening, a visit from a small land-bird, about the size
of a goldfinch, and resembling that bird in shape and plumage, made us keep
a good look-out for land. However, at midnight, on trying for soundings, we
found no ground with forty-five fathoms of line.
On the 17th, at noon, we were in latitude 45° 7', by observation, longitude
154° 0'. The wind now again coming to the westward, obliged us to steer a
more southerly course; and, at midnight, it blew from that quarter a fresh
gale, accompanied with heavy rain. In the morning, we saw another land-
bird, and many flocks of gulls and peterels bending their course to the
S.W. The heavy N.E. swell, with which we had constantly laboured since our
departure from Lopatka, now ceased, and changed suddenly to the S.E. In the
forenoon of the 18th; we passed great quantities of rock-weed, from which,
and the flights of birds above-mentioned, we conjectured we were at no
great distance from the southernmost of the Kuriles; and, at the same time,
the wind coming round to the S., enabled us to stand in for it. At two, we
set studding-sails, and steered W.; but the wind increasing to a gale, soon
obliged as to double reef the top-sails; and, at midnight, we judged it
necessary to try for soundings. Accordingly we hove to; but, finding no
bottom at seventy-five fathoms, we were encouraged to persevere, and again
bore away W., with the wind at S.E. This course we kept till two in the
morning, when the weather becoming thick, we hauled our wind, and steered
to the S.W. till five, when a violent storm reduced us to our courses.
Notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the weather left us little
prospect of making the land, we still kept this object anxiously in view;
and, at day-light, ventured to steer W. by S., and continued to stand on in
this direction till ten in the forenoon, when the wind, suddenly shifting
to the S.W., brought with it clear weather. Of this we had scarcely taken
advantage, by setting the top-sails, and letting out the reefs, when it
began to blow so strong from this quarter, that we were forced to close-
reef again; and, at noon, the wind shifting two points to the W., rendered
it vain to keep any longer on this tack. We therefore put about, and
steered to the southward. At this time, our latitude, by observation, was
44° 12', and longitude 150° 40'; so that, after all our efforts, we had the
mortification to find ourselves, according to the Russian charts, upon a
meridian with Nadeegsda, which they make the southernmost of the Kurile
Islands, and about twenty leagues to the southward.
But, though the violent and contrary winds we had met with during the last
six days, prevented our getting in with these islands, yet the course we
had been obliged to hold, is not without its geographical advantages. For
the group of islands, consisting of the Three Sisters, Kunashir, and
Zellany, (which, in D'Anville's maps, are placed in the track we had just
crossed,) being, by this means, demonstratively removed from that
situation, an additional proof is obtained of their lying to the westward,
where Spanberg actually places them, between the longitude 142° and 147°.
But as the space is occupied, in the French charts, by part of the supposed
land of Jeso and Staten Island, Mr Muller's opinion becomes extremely
probable, that they are all the same lands; and, as no reasons appear for
doubting Spanberg's accuracy, we have ventured, in our general map, to
reinstate the Three Sisters, Zellany, and Kunashir, in their proper
situation, and have entirely omitted the rest. When the reader recollects
the manner in which the Russians have multiplied the islands of the
Northern Archipelago, from the want of accuracy in determining their real
situation, and the desire men naturally feel of propagating new
discoveries, he will not be surprised, that the same causes should produce
the same effects. It is thus that the Jesoian lands, which appear, both
from the accounts of the Japanese, and the earliest Russian traditions, to
be no other than the Southern Kurile islands, have been supposed distinct
from the latter. The land of De Gama is next on record; and was originally
placed nearly in the same situation with those just mentioned, but was
removed, as has been already suggested, to make room for Staten Island, and
the Company's Land; and as Jeso, and the southernmost of the Kuriles, had
also possession of this space, that nothing might be lost, they were
provided for, the former a little to the westward, and the latter to the
eastward.
As the islands of Zellany and Kunashir, according to the Russian charts,
were still to the southward, we were not without hopes of being able to
mate them, and therefore kept our head as much to the westward as the wind
would permit. On the 20th, at noon, we were in latitude 43° 47', and
longitude 150° 30'; and steering W. by S., with a moderate breeze from
S.E., and probably not more than twenty-four leagues to the eastward of
Zellany, when our good fortune again deserted us. For, at three o'clock in
the afternoon, the wind, veering round to the N.W., began to blow so
strong, that we were brought under our foresail and mizen stay-sail. We had
very heavy squalls and hard rain, during the next twenty-four hours; after
which, the horizon clearing a little, and the weather growing moderate, we
were enabled to set the top-sails; but the wind, still continuing to blow
from the N.W., baffled all our endeavours to make the land, and obliged us,
at last, to give up all further thoughts of discovery to the N. of Japan.
We submitted to this disappointment with the greater reluctance, as the
accounts that are given of the inhabitants of these islands, mentioned at
the end of the last section, had excited in us the greater curiosity to
visit them.
In the afternoon, the leach-rope of the Resolution's fore top-sail gave
way, and split the sail. As this accident had often happened to us in
Captain Cook's life-time, he had ordered the foot and leach ropes of the
topsails to be taken out, and larger fixed in their stead; and as these
also proved unequal to the strain that was on them, it is evident, that the
proper proportion of strength between those ropes and the sail is
exceedingly miscalculated in our service. This day a land-bird perched on
the rigging, and was taken; it was larger than a sparrow, but, in other
respects, very like one.
The gale now abated gradually; so that, in the morning of the 22d, we let
out the reefs of the topsails, and made more sail. At noon, we were in
latitude 40° 58', and longitude 148° 17', the variation 3° E. In the
afternoon, another little wanderer from the land pitched on the ship, and
was so worn out with fatigue, that it suffered itself to be taken
immediately, and died a few hours afterward. It was not bigger than a wren,
had a tuft of yellow feathers on its head, and the rest of its plumage like
that of the linnet. The sparrow, being stronger, lived a long time. These
birds plainly indicating, that we could not be at any great distance from
the land, and the wind, after varying a little, fixing in the evening at
N., our hopes of making the land again revived, and we hauled up to the
W.N.W., in which direction, the southernmost islands seen by Spanberg, and
said to be inhabited by hairy men, lay at the distance of about fifty
leagues. But the wind not keeping pace with our wishes, blew in such light
airs, that we made little way, till eight next morning, when we had a fresh
breeze from the S.S.W., with which we continued to steer W.N.W. till the
evening. At noon, we were in latitude 40° 35', longitude 146° 45'; the
latter deduced from several lunar observations taken during the night. The
variation of the needle we found to be 17' E. In the evening, we had strong
squally gales attended with rain, and having passed, in the course of the
day, several patches of green grass, and seen a shag, many small land-
birds, and flocks of gulls, it was not thought prudent, with all these
signs of the vicinity of land, to stand on during the whole night. We
therefore tacked at midnight, and steered a few hours to the S.E., and, at
four in the morning of the 24th, again directed our course to the W.N.W.,
and carried a press of sail till seven in the evening, when the wind
shifted from S.S.W. to N., and blew a fresh gale. At this time we were in
the latitude of 40° 57', and the longitude of 145° 20'.
This second disappointment in our endeavours to get to the N.W., together
with the boisterous weather we had met with, and the little likelihood, at
this time of the year, of its becoming more favourable to our views, were
Captain Gore's motives for now finally giving up all farther search for the
islands to the N. of Japan, and for shaping a course W.S.W., for the N.
part of that island. In the night, the wind shifted to the N.E., and blew a
fresh gale, with hard rain, and hazy weather, which, by noon of the 25th,
brought us to the latitude of 40° 18', in the longitude 144° 0'. To-day, we
saw flights of wild-ducks, a pigeon lighted on our rigging, and many birds,
like linnets, flew about us with a degree of vigour that seemed to prove,
they had not been long upon the wing. We also passed patches of long grass,
and a piece either of sugar-cane or bamboo. These signs, that land was at
no great distance, induced us to try for soundings; but we found no ground
with ninety fathoms of line, Toward evening, the wind by degrees shifted
round to the S., with which we still kept on to the W.S.W.; and at day-
break of the 26th, we had the pleasure of descrying high land to the
westward, which proved to be Japan. At eight, it extended from N.W. to S.
by W., distant three or four leagues. A low flat cape bore N.W. 3/4 W., and
seemed to make the S. part of the entrance of a bay. Toward the S. extreme,
a conical-shaped hill bore S. by W. 3/4 W. To the northward of this hill
there appeared to be a very deep inlet, the N. side of the entrance into
which is formed by a low point of land, and, as well as we could judge by
our glasses, has a small island near it to the southward.
We stood on till nine, when we were within two leagues of the land, bearing
W. 3/4 S., and had soundings of fifty-eight fathoms, with a bottom of very
fine sand. We now tacked and stood off; but the wind dying away, at noon we
had got no farther than three leagues from the coast, which extended from
N.W. by N. 3/4 W. to S. 1/2 E., and was, for the most part, bold and
cliffy. The low cape to the northward bore N.W. by W., six leagues distant;
and the N. point of the inlet S. 3/4 W. The latitude, by observation, was
40° 5', and longitude 142° 28'. The northernmost land in sight, we judged
to be the northern extremity of Japan.[97] It is lower than any other part;
and, from the range of the high lands that were seen over it from the mast-
head, the coast appeared evidently to incline round to the westward. The N.
point of the inlet we supposed to be Cape Nambu, and the town to be
situated in a break of the high land, toward which the inlet seemed to
direct itself[98]. The country is of a moderate height, consists of a
double range of mountains; it abounds with wood, and has a pleasing variety
of hills and dales. We saw the smoke of several towns or villages, and many
houses near the shore, in pleasant and cultivated situations.
During the calm, being willing to make the best use of our time, we put our
fishing lines overboard, in sixty fathoms water, but without any success.
As this was the only amusement our circumstances admitted, the
disappointment was always very sensibly felt, and made us look back with
regret to the cod-banks of the dreary regions we had left, which had
supplied us with so many wholesome meals, and, by the diversion they
afforded, had given a variety to the wearisome succession of gales and
calms, and the tedious repetition of the same nautical observations. At two
in the afternoon, the breeze freshened from the southward, and, by four,
had brought us under close-reefed topsails, and obliged us to stand off to
the S.E. In consequence of this course, and the haziness of the weather,
the land soon disappeared. We kept on all night, and till eight the next
morning, when the wind coming round to the N., and growing moderate, we
made sail, and steered W.S.W., toward the land; but did not make it till
three in the afternoon, when it extended from N.W. 1/2 W. to W. The
northernmost extreme being a continuation of the high land, which was the
southernmost we had seen the day before; the land to the W. we conceived to
be the Hofe Tafel Berg (the High Table Hill) of Jansen. Between the two
extremes, the coast was low and scarcely perceptible, except from the mast-
head. We stood on toward the coast till eight, when we were about five
leagues distant; and, having shortened sail for the night, steered to the
southward, sounding every four hours, but never found ground with one
hundred and sixty fathoms of line.
On the 28th, at six in the morning, we again saw land, twelve leagues to
the southward of that seen the preceding day, extending from W.S.W. to W.
by N. We steered S.W. obliquely with the shore; and, at ten, saw more land
open to the S.W. To the westward of this land, which is low and flat, are
two islands as we judged, though some doubts were entertained, whether they
might not be connected with the adjacent low ground. The hazy weather,
joined to our distance, prevented us also from determining, whether there
are any inlets or harbours between the projecting points, which seem here
to promise good shelter. At noon, the N. extreme bore N.W. by N., and a
high peaked hill, over a steep headland, W. by N., distant five leagues.
Our latitude at this time, by observation, was 38° 16', longitude 142° 9'.
The mean of the variation, from observations taken both in the fore and
afternoon, was 1° 20' E.
At half-past three in the afternoon, we lost sight of the land; and, from
its breaking off so suddenly, conjectured, that what we had seen this day
is an island, or, perhaps, a cluster of islands, lying off the main land of
Japan; but as the islands, called by Jansen the Schildpads, and by Mr
D'Anville Matsima, though laid down nearly in the same situation, are not
equal in extent to the land seen by us, we must leave this point undecided.
Having kept a S.W. course during the remaining part of the day, we found
ourselves, at midnight, in seventy fathoms water, over a bottom of fine
dark-brown sand. We therefore hauled up to the eastward, till morning, when
we saw the land again, about eleven leagues to the southward of that which
we had seen the day before; and at eight, we were within six or seven miles
of the shore, having carried, in regular soundings, from sixty-five to
twenty fathoms, over coarse sand and gravel. Unluckily there was a haze
over the land, which hindered our distinguishing small objects on it. The
coast is straight and unbroken, and runs nearly in a N, and S. direction.
Toward the sea the ground is low, but rises gradually into hills of a
moderate height, whose tops are tolerably even, and covered with wood.
At nine o'clock, the wind shifting to the southward, and the sky lowring,
we tacked and stood off to the E., and soon after, we saw a vessel, close
in with the land, standing along the shore to the northward, and another in
the offing, coming down on us before the wind. Objects of any kind,
belonging to a country so famous, and yet so little known, it will be
easily conceived, must have excited a general curiosity, and accordingly
every soul on board was upon deck in an instant, to gaze at them. As the
vessel to windward approached us, she hauled farther off shore; upon which,
fearing that we should alarm them by the appearance of a pursuit, we
brought the ships to, and she passed ahead of us, at the distance of about
half a mile. It would have been easy for us to have spoken with them; but
perceiving, by their manoeuvres, that they were much frightened, Captain
Gore was not willing to augment their terrors; and, thinking that we should
have many better opportunities of communication with this people, suffered
them to go off without interruption. Our distance did not permit us to
remark any particular regarding the men on board, who seemed to be about
six in number, especially as the haziness of the weather precluded the use
of our glasses. According to the best conjectures we were able to form, the
vessel was about forty tons burthen. She had but one mast, on which was
hoisted a square sail, extended by a yard aloft, the braces of which worked
forward. Half-way down the sail, came three pieces of black cloth, at equal
distances from each other. The vessel was higher at each end than in the
midship; and we imagined, from her appearance and form, that it was
impossible for her to sail any otherwise than large.
At noon, the wind freshened, and brought with it a good deal of rain; by
three, it had increased so much, that we were reduced to our courses; at
the same time, the sea ran as high as any one on board ever remembered to
have seen it. If the Japanese vessels are, as Kæmpfer describes them, open
in the stern, it would not have been possible for those we saw to have
survived the fury of this storm; but, as the appearance of the weather, all
the preceding part of the day, foretold its coming, and one of the sloops
had, notwithstanding, stood far out to sea, we may safely conclude, that
they are perfectly capable of bearing a gale of wind. Spanberg indeed
describes two kinds of Japanese vessels; one answering to the above
description of Kæmpfer, the other, which he calls busses, and in which, he
says, they make their voyages to the neighbouring islands, exactly
corresponds with those we saw.[99]
At eight in the evening, the gale shifted to the W., without abating the
least in violence, and by raising a sudden swell, in a contrary direction
to that which prevailed before, occasioned the ships to strain and labour
exceedingly. During the storm, several of the sails were split on board the
Resolution. Indeed they had been so long bent, and were worn so thin, that
this accident had of late happened to us almost daily, in both ships;
especially when, being stiff and heavy with the rain, they became less able
to bear the shocks of the violent and variable winds we at this time
experienced. The gale at length growing moderate, and settling to the W.,
we kept upon a wind to the southward; and, at nine in the morning of the
30th, we saw the land, at the distance of about fifteen leagues, bearing
from W. by N. to N.W. 1/4 W. It appeared in detached parts; but whether
they were small islands, or parts of Japan, our distance did not enable us
to determine. At noon, it extended from N.W. to W., the nearest land being
about thirteen leagues distant, beyond which the coast seemed to run in a
westerly direction. The latitude, by observation, was 36° 41', longitude
142° 6'. The point to the northward, which was supposed to be near the
southernmost land seen the day before, we conjectured to be Cape de Kennis,
and the break to the southward of this point, to be the mouth of the
river on which the town of Gissima is said to be situated. The next cape is
probably that called in the Dutch charts Boomtje's Point; and the
southernmost, off which we were abreast at noon, we suppose to be near Low
Point,[100] and that we were at too great distance to see the low land, in
which it probably terminates, to the eastward.
In the afternoon, the wind veering round to the N.E., we stood to the
southward, at the distance of about eighteen leagues from the shore, trying
for soundings as we went along, but finding none with one hundred and
fifteen fathoms of line. At two the next morning, it shifted to W.,
attended with rain and lightning, and blowing in heavy squalls. During the
course of the day, we had several small birds of a brown plumage,
resembling linnets, flying about us, which had been forced off the land by
the strong westerly gales; but toward the evening, the wind coming to the
N.W., we shaped our coarse, along with them, to W.S.W., in order to regain
the coast. In the morning of the 1st of November, the wind again shifted to
S.E., and bringing with it fair weather, we got forty-two sets of distances
of the moon from the sun and stars, with four different quadrants, each set
consisting of six observations; these agreeing pretty nearly with each
other, fix our situation at noon the same day, with great accuracy, in
longitude 141° 32'; the latitude, by observation, was 35° 17', We found an
error of latitude, in our reckonings of the preceding day, of eight miles,
and in this day's of seventeen; from whence, and from our being much more
to the eastward than we expected, we concluded, that there had been a
strong current from the S.W.
At two in the afternoon, we again made the land to the westward, at the
distance of about twelve leagues; the southernmost land in sight, which we
supposed to be White Point,[101], bore W.S.W. 1/2 W.; a hummock to the
northward, which had the appearance of being an island, bore N.N.W. 1/2 W.,
within which we saw from the mast-head low land, which we took to be Sand-
down Point.[102] We stood in toward the land, till half-past five, when we
hauled our wind to the southward. At this time we saw a number of Japanese
vessels, close in with the land, several seemingly engaged in fishing, and
others standing along shore. We now discovered to the westward a remarkably
high mountain, with a round top, rising far inland. There is no high ground
near it, the coast being of a moderate elevation, and, as far as we could
judge, from the haziness of the horizon, much broken by small inlets. But
to the southward of the hummock island before mentioned, there appeared, at
a great distance, within the country, a ridge of hills, stretching in a
direction toward the mountain, and probably joining with it. As this is the
most remarkable hill on the coast, we could have wished to have settled its
situation exactly; but having only had this single view, were obliged to be
contented with such accuracy as our circumstances would allow. Its latitude
therefore we conceive to be 35° 20', its longitude, estimated by its
distance from the ships, at this time fifteen leagues, 140° 26'.
As the Dutch charts make the coast of Japan extend about ten leagues to the
S.W. of White Point, at eight we tacked, and stood off to the eastward, in
order to weather the point. At midnight, we again tacked to the S.W.,
expecting to fall in with the coast to the southward, but were surprised,
in the morning at eight, to see the hummock, at the distance only of three
leagues, bearing W.N.W. We began, at first, to doubt the evidence of our
senses, and afterward to suspect some deception from a similarity of land;
but, at noon, we found ourselves, by observation, to be actually in
latitude 35° 43', at a time when our reckonings gave us 34° 48'. So that,
during the eight hours in which we supposed we had made a course of nine
leagues to the S.W., we had in reality been carried eight leagues from the
position we left, in a direction diametrically opposite; which made, on the
whole, in that short space of time, a difference in our reckoning of
seventeen leagues. From this error, we calculated, that the current had set
to the N.E. by N., at the rate of at least five miles an hour. Our
longitude, at this time, was 141° 16'.
The weather having now the same threatening appearance as on the 29th of
October, which was followed by so sudden and severe a gale, and the wind
continuing at S.S.E., it was thought prudent to leave the shore, and stand
off to the eastward, to prevent our being entangled with the land. Nor were
we wrong in our prognostications; for it soon afterward began, and
continued till next day, to blow a heavy gale, accompanied with hazy and
rainy weather. In the morning of the 3d, we found ourselves, by our
reckoning, upward of fifty leagues from the land; which circumstance,
together with the very extraordinary effect of currents we had before
experienced, the late season of the year, the unsettled state of the
weather, and the little likelihood of any change for the better, made
Captain Gore resolve to leave Japan altogether, and prosecute our voyage to
China; hoping, that as the track he meant to pursue had never yet been
explored, he should be able to make amends, by some new discovery, for the
disappointments we had met with on this coast.
If the reader should be of opinion that we quitted this object too hastily,
in addition to the facts already stated it ought to be remarked, that
Kæmpfer describes the coast of Japan as the most dangerous in the whole
world;[103] that it would have been equally dangerous, in case of distress,
to run into any of their harbours, where we know, from the best
authorities, that the aversion of the inhabitants to any intercourse with
strangers, has led them to commit the most atrocious barbarities; that our
ships were in a leaky condition, that our sails were worn out, and unable
to withstand, a gale of wind, and that the rigging was so rotten as to
require constant and perpetual repairs.
As the strong currents, which set along the eastern coast of Japan, may be
of dangerous consequence to the navigator, who is not aware of their
extraordinary rapidity, I shall take leave of this island, with a summary
account of their force and direction, as observed by us from the 1st to the
8th of November. On the 1st, at which time we were about eighteen leagues
to the eastward of White Point, the current set N.E. and by N., at the rate
of three miles an hour; on the 2d, as we approached the shore, we found it
continuing in the same direction, but increased its rapidity to five miles
an hour; as we left the shore it again became more moderate, and inclined
to the eastward; on the 3d, at the distance of sixty leagues, it set to the
E.N.E., three miles an hour; on the 4th and 5th, it turned to the
southward, and at one hundred and twenty leagues from the land, its
direction was S.E., and its rate not more than a mile and a half an hour;
on the 6th and 7th, it again shifted round to the N.E., its force gradually
diminishing till the 8th, when we could no longer perceive any at all.
During the 4th and 5th, we continued our course to the S.E., having very
unsettled weather, attended with much lightning and rain. On both days we
passed great quantities of pumice-stone, several pieces of which we took
up, and found to weigh from one ounce to three pounds. We conjectured that
these stones had been thrown into the sea by eruptions of various dates, as
many of them were covered with barnacles, and others quite bare. At the
same time, we saw two wild ducks, and several small land-birds, and had
many porpoises playing round us.
On the 6th, at day-light, we altered our course to the S.S.W.; but, at
eight in the evening, we were taken back, and obliged to steer to the S.E.
On the 7th, at noon, we saw a small land-bird, our latitude, by
observation, at this time, being 33° 52', and longitude 148° 42'. On the
9th, we were in latitude 31° 46', longitude 146° 20', when we again saw a
small land-bird, a tropic bird, porpoises, flying fishes, and had a great
swell from the E.S.E. We continued our course to the S.W., having the winds
from the northward, without any remarkable occurrence, till the 12th, when
we had a most violent gale of wind from the same quarter, which reduced us
to the fore-sail and mizen stay-sail; and, as the weather was so hazy, that
we were not able to see a cable's length before us, and many shoals and
small islands are laid down in our charts, in this part of the ocean, we
brought-to, with our heads to the S.W. At noon, the latitude by account was
27° 36', longitude 144° 25'. In the morning of the 13th, the wind shifting
round to the N.W., brought with it fair weather; but though we were, at
this time nearly in the situation given to the island of St Juan, we saw no
appearance of land. We now bore away to the S.W., and set the top-sails,
the gale still continuing with great violence. At noon, the latitude, by
observation, was 26° 0', longitude 143° 40', and variation 3° 50' E. In the
afternoon, we saw flying fish and dolphins, also tropic birds and
albatrosses. We still continued to pass much pumice-stone; indeed, the
prodigious quantities of this substance which float in the sea, between
Japan and the Bashee islands, seem to indicate, that some great volcanic
convulsion must have happened in this part of the Pacific Ocean; and
consequently give some degree of probability to the opinion of Mr Muller,
which I have already had occasion to mention, respecting the separation of
the continent of Jeso, and the disappearance of Company's Land and Staten
Island.
At six in the afternoon, we altered our coarse to the W.S.W., Captain Gore
judging it useless to steer any longer to the S.S.W., as we were near the
meridian of the Ladrones, or Marianne Islands, and at no great distance
from the track of the Manilla ships. In the morning of the 14th, the
weather became fine, and the wind, which was moderate, gradually shifted to
the N.E., and proved to be the trade-wind. At ten, Mr Trevenen, one of the
young gentlemen who came along with me into the Discovery, saw land
appearing like a peaked mountain, and bearing S.W. At noon, the latitude,
by observation, was 24° 37', longitude 142° 2'. The land, which we now
discovered to be an island, bore S.W. 1/2 W., distant eight or ten leagues;
and at two in the afternoon, we saw another to the W.N.W. This second
island, when seen at a distance, has the appearance of two; the south point
consisting of a high conical hill, joined by a narrow neck to the northern
land, which is of a moderate height. As this was evidently of greater
extent than the island to the south, we altered our course toward it. At
four, it bore N.W. by W.; but, not having day-light sufficient to examine
the coast, we stood upon our tacks during the night.
On the 15th, at six in the morning, we bore away for the south point of the
larger island, at which time we discovered another high island, bearing N.
3/4 W., the south island, being on the same rhomb line, and the south point
of the island ahead, W. by N. At nine, we were abreast, and within a mile
of the middle island, but Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land
without some danger from the great surf that broke on the shore, kept on
his course to the westward. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 24°
50', longitude 140° 56' E.
This island is about five miles long, in a N.N.E., and S.S.W. direction.
The south point is a high barren hill, flattish at the top, and, when seen
from the W.S.W., presents an evident volcanic crater. The earth, rock, or
sand, for it was not easy to distinguish of which its surface was composed,
exhibited various colours, and a considerable part we conjectured to be
sulphur, both from its appearance to the eye, and the strong sulphurous
smell which we perceived as we approached the point. Some of the officers
on board the Resolution, which passed nearer the land, thought they saw
steams rising from the top of the hill. From these circumstances, Captain
Gore gave it the name of _Sulphur Island_. A low, narrow neck of land
connects this hill with the south end of the island, which spreads out into
a circumference of three or four leagues, and is of a moderate height. The
part near the isthmus has some bushes on it, and has a green appearance,
but those to the N.E. are very barren, and full of large detached rocks,
many of which were exceedingly white. Very dangerous breakers extend two
miles and a half to the east, and two miles to the west, off the middle
part of the island, on which the sea broke with great violence.
The north and south islands appeared to us as single mountains of a
considerable height; the former peaked, and of a conical shape; the latter
more square and flat at the top. Sulphur Island we place in latitude 24°
48', longitude 141° 12'. The north island in latitude 25° 14', longitude
141° 10'. The south island in latitude 24° 22', and longitude 141° 26'. The
variation observed was 3° 30' E.
Captain Gore now directed his course to the W.S.W., for the Bashee Islands,
hoping to procure, at them, such a supply of refreshments as would help to
shorten his stay in Macao. These islands were visited by Dampier, who gives
a very favourable account, both of the civility of the inhabitants, and of
the plenty of hogs and vegetables, with, which the country abounds; they
were afterwards seen by Byron and Wallis, who passed them without landing.
In order to extend our view, in the day-time, the ships spread between two
and three leagues from each other, and during the night, we went under an
easy sail; so that it was scarcely possible to pass any land that lay in
the neighbourhood of our course. In this manner we proceeded, without any
occurrence worth remarking, with a fresh breeze from the N.E., till the
22d, when it increased to a strong gale, with violent squalls of wind and
rain, which brought us under close-reefed top-sails.
At noon of the 23d, the latitude, by account, was 21° 5', and longitude
123° 20'; at six in the evening, being now only twenty-one leagues from the
Bashee Islands, according to the situation in Mr Dalrymple's map, and the
weather squally attended with a thick haze, we hauled our wind to the
N.N.W., and handed the fore top-sail.
During the whole of the 24th it rained incessantly, and the wind still blew
a storm; a heavy sea rolled down on us from the north, and in the afternoon
we had violent flashes of lightning from the same quarter. We continued
upon a wind to the N.N.W. till nine o'clock, when we tacked, and stood to
the S.S.E., till four in the morning of the 25th, and then wore. During the
night there was an eclipse of the moon, but the rain prevented our making
any observation; unfortunately, at the time of the greatest darkness, a
seaman, in stowing the main-top-mast stay-sail, fell overboard, but laying
hold of a rope, which providentially was hanging out of the fore-chains
into the water, and the ship being quickly brought in the wind, he was got
on board without any other hurt than a slight bruise on his shoulder. At
eight, the weather clearing, we bore away but the wind blew still so
strong, that we carried no other sail than the fore-sail, and the main-top-
sail close-reefed. About this time we saw a land-bird resembling a thrush,
and a sugar-cane; at noon, the latitude, by observation, was 21° 35', and
longitude 121° 35'.
As our situation in longitude was now to the west of the Bashee, according
to Mr Dalrymple's map, I perceived that Captain Gore was governed, in the
course he was steering, by the opinions of Commodore Byron and Captain
Wallis, with whom he sailed when they passed these islands. The former
placing it near four degrees to the westward, or in longitude 118° 15'. In
consequence of this opinion, at two, we stood to the southward, with a view
of getting into the same parallel of latitude with the islands, before we
ran down our longitude. At six, we were nearly in that situation, and
consequently ought to have been in sight of land, according to Mr Wallis's
account, who places the Bashees near three degrees more to the eastward
than Mr Byron. The gale, at this time, had not in the least abated; and
Captain Gore, still conceiving that the islands must undoubtedly lie to the
westward, brought the ships to, with their heads to the N.W., under the
fore-sail and balanced mizen.
At six in the morning of the 26th, the wind having considerably abated, we
bore away west; set the top-sails, and let out the reefs. At noon, the
latitude, by observation, was 21° 12', and longitude 120° 25'. We saw, this
day, a flock of ducks, and many tropic-birds, also dolphins and porpoises,
and still continued to pass several pumice-stones. We spent the night upon
our tacks, and, at six in the morning of the 27th, again bore away west in
search of the Bashees.
I now began to be a little apprehensive, lest, in searching for those
islands, we should get so much to the southward as to be obliged to pass to
leeward of the Pratas. In this case, it might have been exceedingly
difficult for such bad-sailing ships as ours to fetch Macao, particularly
should the wind continue to blow, as it now did, from the N.N.E. and N. As
I had some doubts whether Mr Dalrymple's charts were on board the
Resolution, I made sail and hailed her; and having acquainted Captain Gore
with the position of these shoals, and my apprehensions of being driven to
the southward, he informed me that he should continue on his course for the
day, as he was still in hopes of finding Admiral Byron's longitude right;
and therefore ordered me to spread a few miles to the south.
At noon, the weather became hazy; the latitude, by reckoning, was 21° 2',
and longitude 118° 30'; and at six, having got to the westward of the
Bashees, by Mr Byron's account, Captain Gore hauled his wind to the N.W.,
under an easy sail, the wind blowing very strong, and there being every
appearance of a dirty boisterous night. At four in the morning of the 28th,
we saw the Resolution, then half a mile ahead of us, wear, and immediately
perceived breakers close under our lee. At day-light, we saw the island of
Prata; and at half past six we wore again, and stood toward the shoal, and
finding we could not weather it, bore away, and ran to leeward. As we
passed the south side, within a mile of the reef, we observed two
remarkable patches on the edge of the breakers, that looked like wrecks. At
noon, the latitude, found by double altitudes, was 20° 39', longitude 116°
45'. The island bore N. 3/4 E., distant three or four leagues. On the
south-west side of the reef, and near the south end of the island, we
thought we saw, from the mast-head, openings in the reef, which promised
safe anchorage.
The Prata shoal is of a considerable extent, being six leagues from north
to south, and stretching three or four leagues to the eastward of the
island; its limit to the westward we were not in a situation to determine.
The northeast extremity we place in latitude 20° 58', and longitude 117°;
and the south-west in latitude 20° 45', and longitude 116° 44'.
For the remaining part of the day we carried a press of sail, and kept the
wind, which was N.E. by N., in order to secure our passage to Macao. It was
fortunate, that toward evening the wind favoured us, by changing two points
more to the east; for had the wind and weather continued the same as during
the preceding week, I doubt whether we could have fetched that port, in
which case, we must have borne away for Batavia; a place we all dreaded
exceedingly, from the sad havoc the unhealthiness of the climate had made
in the crews of the former ships that had been out on discovery, and had
touched there.
In the forenoon of the 29th, we passed several Chinese fishing-boats, who
eyed us with great indifference; They fish with a large dredge-net, shaped
like a hollow cone, having a flat iron rim fixed to the lower part of its
mouth. The net is made fast with cords to the head and stern of the boat,
which being left to drive with the wind, draws the net after it with the
iron part dragging along the bottom. We were sorry to find the sea covered
with the wrecks of boats that had been lost, as we conjectured, in the late
boisterous weather. At-noon, we were in latitude, by observation, 22° 1',
having run one hundred and ten miles upon a north-west course since the
preceding noon. Being now nearly in the latitude of the Lema Islands, we
bore away W. by N., and after running twenty-two miles, saw one of them
nine or ten leagues to the westward. At six, the extremes of the islands in
sight bore N.N.W. 1/2 W., and W.N.W. 1/2 W.; distant from the nearest four
or five leagues; the depth of water twenty-two fathoms, over a soft muddy
bottom. We now shortened sail, and kept upon our tacks for the night. By Mr
Bayly's time-keeper, the Grand Lema bore from the Prata Island, N. 60° W.,
one hundred and fifty-three miles; and by our run, N. 57° W., one hundred
and forty-six miles.
In the morning of the 30th, we ran along the Lema Isles, which, like all
the other islands on this coast, are without wood, and, as far as we could
observe, without cultivation. At seven o'clock, we had precisely the same
view of these islands, as is represented in a plate of Lord Anson's voyage.
At nine o'clock, a Chinese boat, which had been before with the Resolution,
came alongside, and wanted to put on board us a pilot, which, however, we
declined, as it was our business to follow our consort. We soon after
passed the rock marked R in Lord Anson's plate; but, instead of hauling up
to the northward of the Grand Ladrone Island, as was done in the Centurion,
we proceeded to leeward.
It is hardly necessary to caution the mariner not to take this course, as
the danger is sufficiently obvious; for should the wind blow strong, and
the current set with it, it will be extremely difficult to fetch Macao.
Indeed, we might, with great safety, by the direction of Mr Dalrymple's
map, have gone either entirely to the north of the Lema Isles, or between
them, and made the wind fair for Macao. Our fears of missing this port, and
being forced to Batavia, added to the strong and eager desires of hearing
news from Europe, made us rejoice to see the Resolution soon after fire a
gun, and hoist her colours as a signal for a pilot. On repeating the
signal, we saw an excellent race between four Chinese boats; and Captain
Gore, having engaged with the man who arrived first, to carry the ship to
the Typa, for thirty dollars, sent me word, that, as we could easily
follow, that expence might be saved to us. Soon after, a second pilot
getting on board the Resolution, insisted on conducting the ship, and,
without farther ceremony, laid hold of the wheel, and began to order the
sails to be trimmed. This occasioned a violent dispute, which at last was
compromised, by their agreeing to go shares in the money. At noon, the
altitude, by observation, was 21° 57' N., and longitude 114° 2' E.; the
Grand Ladrone Island extending from N.W. 1/2 N., to N.1/2 W., distant four
miles. The land of which the bearings are here given, we conceived to be
one island; but afterward found the western part to be the island marked Z
in Mr Dalrymple's chart of part of the coast of China, &c. which, at that
time, we unfortunately had not on board.
In obedience to the instructions given to Captain Cook by the Board of
Admiralty, it now became necessary to demand of the officers and men their
journals, and what other papers they might have in their possession,
relating to the history of our voyage. The execution of these orders seemed
to require some delicacy, as well as firmness. I could not be ignorant,
that the greatest part of our officers, and several of the seamen, had
amused themselves with writing accounts of our proceedings for their own
private satisfaction, or that of their friends, which they might be
unwilling, in their present form, to have submitted to the inspection of
strangers. On the other hand, I could not, consistently with the
instructions we had received, leave in their custody papers, which, either
from carelessness or design, might fall into the hands of printers, and
give rise to spurious and imperfect accounts of the voyage, to the
discredit of our labours, and perhaps to the prejudice of officers, who,
though innocent, might be suspected of having been the authors of such
publications. As soon, therefore, as I had assembled the ship's company on
deck, I acquainted them with the orders we had received, and the reasons
which, I thought, ought to induce them to yield a ready obedience. At the
same time, I told them, that any papers which they were desirous not to
have sent to the Admiralty, should be sealed up in their presence, and kept
in my own custody, till the intentions of the Board, with regard to the
publication of the history of the voyage, were fulfilled; after which, they
should faithfully be restored back to them.
It is with the greatest satisfaction I can relate, that my proposals met
with the approbation, and the cheerful compliance both of the officers and
men; and I am persuaded, that every scrap of paper, containing any
transactions relating to the voyage, were given up. Indeed, it is doing
bare justice to the seamen of this ship to declare, that they were the most
obedient and the best-disposed men I ever knew, though almost all of them
were very young, and had never before served in a ship of war.
[92] As we have already exceeded the proportion of notes in the preceding
pages, it would be improper, even if the importance of the remaining
matter were more considerable than it is, to hazard farther
commentary. The reader will find, as, indeed, he will naturally
expect, that the condition of the vessels, &c. did not admit of much
more research that could benefit navigation or geography. This,
therefore, renders it less necessary to occupy attention in the
results. Some additions have been made to our knowledge of Jesso, the
neighbouring seas and islands, since the date of this voyage, and in
no small degree, especially by the expedition under Krusenstern, from
whose remarks we have already enriched our work. The additional
observations will properly fall to be considered hereafter. It may be
necessary, however, to state at present, that the able navigator, just
now named, had it in his power, from more favourable circumstances, to
correct the positions of some of the islands seen by Captain Gore, and
assigned to them in the following section, as Sulphur Island, North
Island, &c. But the corrections, though important for nautical
purposes, are not of so much consequence in a general point of view,
as to justify any particular remarks on the text. It is enough,
perhaps, to notice the circumstance here, and to take advantage of the
improvements of Krusenstern or others on any map or chart it may be
expedient to affix to a subsequent portion of this work. The result of
K.'s labours, it may be remarked, will require a modification to no
mean amount of all the maps and charts of the regions we are now
contemplating.--E.
[93] From Muller's account of the course steered by Captain Spanberg, in
his route from Kamtschatka to Japan, it appears, that he must also
undoubtedly have seen De Gama's Land, if it really has the extent
given it in Mr D'Anville's maps. Walton, who commanded a vessel in the
same expedition, seems also to have looked in vain for this land on
his return from Japan; and three years afterward, on account of some
doubts that had arisen respecting Spanberg's course, Beering went
directly in search of it, as low as the latitude of 46°.--See _Voyages
et Découvertes_, &c. p. 210, et seq.
[94] This land was seen by the Dutchmen who sailed in the Castricom and
Breskes, and imagined by them to be part of the continent of America.
There now remains scarce any doubt of its being the islands of Ooroop
and Nadeegsda. See the journals of the Castricom and Breskes,
published by Wetzer.
[95] This land was also discovered by the Castricom; and, from its
situation, as described in the journal of that vessel, it appears to
be the islands of the Three Sisters.
[96] The country of Jeso, which has so long been a stumbling-block to our
modern geographers, was first brought to the knowledge of Europeans by
the Dutch vessels mentioned in the preceding notes. The name appears,
from the earliest accounts, to have been well known, both to the
Japanese and the Kamtschadales; and used by them, indiscriminately,
for all the islands lying between Kamtschatka and Japan. It has since
been applied to a large imaginary island, or continent, supposed to
have been discovered by the Castricom and Breskes; and it may not,
therefore, be improper to consider the grounds of this mistake, as far
as can be collected from the journals of that expedition. The object
of the voyage, in which those ships were engaged, was to explore the
eastern shore of Tartary; but, being separated by a storm off the S.E.
point of Japan, they sailed in different tracks along the E. side of
the island; and, having passed its northern extremity, proceeded
singly on their intended expedition.
The Castricom, commanded by De Vries, steering northward, fell in with
land on the third day, in latitude 42°. He sailed along the S.E. coast
about sixty leagues in a _constant fog_; and, having anchored in
various places, held a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants. Thus
far the journal. Now, as the islands of Matimai, Kunashir, and Zellany
appear, from Captain Spanberg's discoveries, to lie exactly in this
situation, there can be no doubt of their being the same land; and the
circumstance of the fog sufficiently accounts for the error of De
Vries, imagining them to be one continent; without having recourse to
the supposition of an earthquake, by which Mr Muller, from his desire
to reconcile the opinion generally received, with the later Russian
discoveries, conceives the several parts to have been separated. The
journal then proceeds to give an account of the discovery of Staten
Island and Company's Land, of which I have already given my opinion,
and shall have occasion to speak hereafter. Having passed through the
Straits of De Vries, says the journal, they entered a vast, wild, and
tempestuous sea, in which they steered, through mists and darkness, to
the 48° N. latitude; after which they were driven by contrary winds to
the southward, and again fell in with land to the westward, in
latitude 45°, which they unaccountably still imagined to be part of
the continent of Jeso; whereas, whoever examines Jansen's map of their
discoveries, (which appears to be exceedingly accurate, as far as his
information went,) will, I believe, have no doubt, that they were, at
this time, on the coast of Tartary. Having traced this land four
degrees to the northward, they returned to the southward through the
Straits they had passed before.
It is not necessary to trouble the reader with the journal of the
Breskes, as it contains no new matter, and has been already
republished, and very satisfactorily animadverted upon by Mr Muller.--
_Voyages from Asia to America_, &c. English Translation, p. 78.
[97] The only authentic survey of the eastern coast of Japan, with which I
am acquainted, is that published by Jansen in his Atlas, and compiled
with great accuracy from the charts and journals of the Castricom and
Breskes. I have therefore adopted, wherever the identity of the
situations could be nearly ascertained, the names given in that map to
the corresponding points and head-lands seen by us along the coast.
Jansen places the northern extremity of Japan in latitude 40° 15'. The
point seen by us was in latitude 40° 27'.
[98] This town is called by Jansen, Nabo.
[99] Vide Muller, Fr. ed. page 215.
[100] _Lage Hoeck_, or Low Point, is placed by Jansen in latitude
36° 40'.
[101] _Witte Hoeck_, placed by Jansen in latitude 35° 24'.
[102] _Sanduynege Hoeck_, in latitude 35° 55'. Jansen.
[103] See Kæmpfer's Hist. of Japan, vol. i. p 92, 93, 94, and 102.