Continuation of Transactions in the Harbour of St Peter and St
Paul.--Abundance of Fish.--Death of a Seaman belonging to the
Resolution.--The Russian Hospital put under the Care of the Ship's
Surgeons.--Supply of Flour and Cattle.--Celebration of the King's
Birth-day.--Difficulties in Sailing out of the Bay.--Eruption of a
Volcano.--Steer to the Northward.--Cheepoonskoi Noss.--Errors of the
Russian Charts.--Kamptschatskoi Noss.--Island of St Laurence.--View, from
the same Point, of the Coasts of Asia and America, and the Islands of St
Diomede.--Various Attempts to get to the North, between the two
Continents.--Obstructed by Impenetrable Ice.--Sea-horses and White Bears
killed.--Captain Clerke's Determination and future Designs.
Having concluded the last section with an account of our return from
Bolcheretsk, accompanied by Major Behm, the commander of Kamtschatka, and
of his departure, I shall proceed to relate the transactions that passed in
the harbour of St Peter and St Paul during our absence. On the 7th of May,
soon after we had left the bay, a large piece of ice drove across the cut-
water of the Resolution, and brought home the small bower-anchor. This
obliged them to weigh the other anchor, and moor again. The carpenters who
were employed in stopping the leak, were obliged to take off a great part
of the sheathing from the bows, and found many of the trunnels so very
loose and rotten, as to be easily drawn out with the fingers.
On the 11th, they had heavy gales from the N.E., which obliged both the
ships to strike yards and topmasts; but in the afternoon the weather being
more moderate, and the ice having drifted away as far as the mouth of the
harbour of St Peter and St Paul, they warped close to the shore for the
greater convenience, of watering and wooding, and again moored as before;
the town bearing N. 1/2 W., half a mile distant, and the mouth of the bay
shut in by the southernmost point of Rakowina harbour, S.
The next day a party was sent on shore to cut wood, but made little
progress on account of the snow, which still covered the ground. A
convenient spot was cleared away abreast of the ships, where there was a
fine run of water; and a tent being erected for the cooper, the empty casks
were landed, and the sail-makers sent on shore.
On the 15th, the beach being clear of ice, the people were sent to haul the
seine, and caught an abundant supply of fine flat fish for both the ships'
companies. Indeed from this time, during the whole of our stay in the
harbour, we were absolutely overpowered with the quantities of fish which
came in from every quarter. The _Toions_, both of this town, and of
Paratounca, a village in the neighbourhood, had received orders from Major
Behm to employ all the Kamtschadales in our service; so that we frequently
could not take into the ships the presents that were sent us. They
consisted in general of fish, cod, trout, and herring. These last, which
were in their full perfection, and of a delicious flavour, were exceedingly
abundant in this bay. The Discovery's people surrounded at one time so
great a quantity in their seine, that they were obliged to throw a vast
number out, lest the net should be broken to pieces; and the cargo they
landed was afterward so plentiful, that besides a sufficient store for
immediate use, they filled as many casks as they could spare for salting;
and after sending to the Resolution a sufficient quantity for the same
purpose, they left several bushels behind on the beach.
The snow now began to disappear very rapidly, and abundance of wild garlic,
celery, and nettle-tops, were gathered for the use of the crews; which
being boiled with wheat and portable soup, made them a wholesome and
comfortable breakfast; and with this they were supplied every morning. The
birch-trees were also tapped, and the sweet juice, which they yielded in
great quantities, was constantly mixed with the men's allowance of brandy.
The next day a small bullock, which had been procured for the ship's
company by the serjeant, was killed; and weighed two hundred and seventy-
two pounds. It was served out to both crews for their Sunday's dinner,
being the first piece of fresh beef they had tasted since our departure
from the Cape of Good Hope, in December 1776, a period of near two years
and a half.
This evening died John Macintosh, the carpenter's mate, after having
laboured under a dysentery ever since our departure from the Sandwich
islands; he was a very hard working quiet man, and much regretted by his
messmates. He was the fourth person we lost by sickness during the voyage;
but the first who could be said, from his age and the constitutional habits
of his body, to have had on our setting out an equal chance with the rest
of his comrades; Watman, we supposed to be about sixty years of age, and
Roberts and Mr Anderson, from the decay which had evidently commenced
before we left England, could not, in all probability, under any
circumstances, have lived a greater length of time than they did.
I have already mentioned, that Captain Clerke's health continued daily to
decline, notwithstanding the salutary change of diet which the country of
Kamtschatka afforded him. The priest of Paratounca, as soon as he heard of
the infirm state he was in, supplied him every day with bread, milk, fresh
butter, and fowls, though his house was sixteen miles from the harbour
where we lay.
On our first arrival, we found the Russian hospital, which is near the town
of St Peter and St Paul, in a condition truly deplorable. All the soldiers
were, more or less, affected by the scurvy, and a great many in the last
stage of that disorder. The rest of the Russian inhabitants were also in
the same condition; and we particularly remarked, that our friend the
serjeant, by making too free with the spirits we gave him, had brought on
himself, in the course of a few days, some of the most alarming symptoms of
that malady. In this lamentable state, Captain Clerke put them all under
the care of our surgeons, and ordered a supply of sourkrout, and malt, for
wort, to be furnished for their use. It was astonishing to observe the
alteration in the figures of almost every person we met on our return from
Bolcheretsk; and I was informed by our surgeons, that they attributed their
speedy recovery principally to the effects of the sweetwort.[21]
On the 1st of June we got on board two hundred and fifty poods, or nine
thousand pound weight of rye-flour, with which we were supplied from the
stores of St Peter and St Paul; and the Discovery had a proportional
quantity. The men were immediately put on full allowance of bread, which
they had not been indulged in since our leaving the Cape of Good Hope. The
same day our watering was completed, having got on board sixty-five tons.
On the 4th we had fresh breezes and hard rain, which disappointed us in our
design of dressing the ships, and obliged us to content ourselves with
firing twenty-one guns in honour of the day, and celebrating it in other
respects in the best manner we were able. Port, who was left with us on
account of his skill in languages, behaved himself with so much modesty and
discretion, that as soon as his master was gone, he was no longer Jean
Port, but Monsieur Port, the interpreter; and partook, as well as the
serjeant (in his capacity of commander of the place), of the entertainment
of the day. Our worthy friend, the priest of Paratounca, having got
intelligence of its being our king's birth-day, gave also a sumptuous
feast; at which some of our gentlemen were present, who seemed highly
delighted with their entertainment, which consisted of abundance of good
eating and drinking, together with dancing.
On the 6th, twenty head of cattle were sent us by the commander's orders,
from the Verchnei _ostrog_, which is situated on the river Kamtschatka, at
the distance of near a hundred miles from this place, in a direct line.
They were of a moderate size; and, notwithstanding the Kamtschadales had
been seventeen days in driving them down to the harbour, arrived in good
condition. The four following days were employed in making ready for sea;
and on the 11th, at two in the morning, we began to unmoor; but before we
had got one anchor up, it blew so strong a gale from the N.E., that we kept
fast, and moored again; conjecturing, from the position of the entrance of
the bay, that the current of wind would set up the channel. Accordingly,
the pinnace being sent out to examine the passage, returned with an
account, that the wind blew strong from the S.E., with a great swell
setting into the bay, which would have made any attempt to get to sea very
hazardous.
Our friend Port now took his leave of us, and carried with him the box with
our Journals, which was to go by the major, and the packet that was to be
sent express. On the 12th, the weather being more moderate, we began to
unmoor again; but, after breaking the messenger, and reeving a running
purchase with a six-inch hawser, which also broke three times, we were
obliged at last to heave a strain at low water, and wait for the flowing of
the tide to raise the anchor. This project succeeded; but not without
damaging the cable in the wake of the hawse. At three we weighed the best
bower, and set sail; and at eight having little wind, and the tide making
against us, we dropped anchor again in ten fathoms, off the mouth of
Rakowina harbour; the _ostrog_ bearing N. by E. 1/2 E., two miles and a
half distant; the Needle Rocks on the east side of the passage, S.S.E. 1/2
E.; and the high rock, on the west side of the passage, S.
On the 13th, at four in the morning, we got under way with the ebb tide;
and there being a dead calm, the boats were sent ahead to tow the ships. At
ten the wind springing up from the S.E. by S., and the tide having turned,
we were again obliged to drop anchor in seven fathoms; the Three Needle
Rocks bearing S. 1/2 E.; and the _ostrog_ N. 1/2 E., at the distance of one
mile from the nearest land. After dinner I went with Captain Gore on shore
on the east side of the passage, where we saw, in two different places, the
remains of extensive villages; and on the side of the hill an old ruined
parapet, with four or five embrasures. It commanded the passage up the
mouth of the bay; and in Beering's time, as he himself mentions, had guns
mounted on it. Near this place were the ruins of some caverns under ground,
which we supposed to have been magazines.
At six in the afternoon we weighed with the ebb tide, and turned to
windward; but at eight a thick fog arising, we were obliged to bring-to, as
our soundings could not afford us a sufficient direction for steering
between several sunk rocks, which lie on each side of the passage we had to
make. In the morning of the 14th, the fog clearing away, we weighed as soon
as the tide began to ebb, and having little wind, sent the boats ahead to
tow; but at ten o'clock, both the wind and tide set in so strong from the
sea, that we were again obliged to drop anchor in thirteen fathoms, the
high rock bearing W. 1/4 S., distant three quarters of a mile. We remained
fast for the rest of the day, the wind blowing fresh into the mouth of the
bay; and toward evening, the weather had a very unusual appearance, being
exceedingly dark and cloudy, with an unsettled shifting wind.
Before day-light, on the 15th, we were surprised with a rumbling noise,
resembling distant hollow thunder; and when the day broke, we found the
decks and sides of the ships covered with a fine dust like emery, near an
inch thick. The air at the same time continued loaded and darkened with
this substance, and toward the _volcano_ mountain, situated to the north of
the harbour, it was so thick and black, that we could not distinguish the
body of the hill. About twelve o'clock, and during the afternoon, the
explosions became louder, and were followed by showers of cinders, which
were in general about the size of peas; though many were picked up from the
deck larger than a hazel-nut. Along with the cinders fell several small
stones, which had undergone no change from the action of fire. In the
evening we had dreadful thunder and lightning, which, with the darkness of
the atmosphere, and the sulphureous smell of the air, produced altogether a
most awful and terrifying effect. We were at this time about eight leagues
from the foot of the mountain.
On the 16th, at day-light, we again weighed anchor, and stood out of the
bay; but the ebb tide setting across the passage upon the eastern shore,
and the wind falling, we were driven very near the Three Needle Rocks,
which lie on that side of the entrance, and obliged to hoist out the boats,
in order to tow the ships clear of them. At noon we were two leagues from
the land, and had soundings with forty-three fathoms of line, over a bottom
of small stones, of the same kind with those which fell on our decks after
the eruption of the _volcano_; but whether they had been, left there by the
last, or by some former eruptions, we were not able to determine.
The aspect of the country was now very different from what it had been on
our first arrival. The snow, excepting what remained on the tops of some
very high mountains, had disappeared; and the sides of the hills, which in
many parts were well wooded, were covered with a beautiful verdure.
As it was Captain Clerke's intention to keep as much in sight of the coast
of Kamtschatka as the weather would permit, in order to determine its
position, we continued steering to the N.N.E, with light and variable winds
till the 18th. The _volcano_ was still seen throwing up immense volumes of
smoke, and we had no soundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms, at the
distance of four leagues from the shore.
On the 18th, the wind freshening from the south, the weather became so
thick and hazy, as to make it imprudent to attempt any longer to keep in
sight of the land. But that we might be ready to resume our survey,
whenever the fogs should disperse, we ran on in the direction of the coast,
as laid down in the Russian charts, and fired signal guns for the Discovery
to steer the same course. At eleven o'clock, just before we lost sight of
the land, Cheepoonskoi Noss, so called by the Russians, (a description of
which, as well as the coast between it and Awatska Bay, will be given,
hereafter), bore N.N.E., distant seven or eight leagues.
On the 20th, at three in the morning, the weather having cleared up, we
stood in toward the land; and in an hour's time saw it ahead, extending
from N.W. to N.N.E., distant about five leagues. The north part we took to
be Kronotskoi Noss; its position in the Russian charts agreeing nearly with
our reckoning as to its latitude, which was 54° 42'; but in longitude we
differed from them considerably, they placing it 1° 48' E. of Awatska;
whereas our reckoning, corrected by the time-keepers and lunar
observations, makes it 3° 34' eastward of that place, or 162° 17' E. from
Greenwich. The land about this cape is very high, and the inland mountains
were still covered with snow. The shore breaks off in steep cliffs, and the
coast is without appearance of inlets or bays. We had not been long
gratified with this sight of the land, when the Wind freshened from the
S.W., and brought on a thick fog, which obliged us to stand off to the
N.E.by E. The weather clearing up again at noon, we steered toward the
land, expecting to fall in with Kamtschatskoi Noss, and had sight of it at
day-break of the 21st.
The southerly wind was soon after succeeded by a light breeze blowing off
the land, which prevented our approaching the coast sufficiently near to
describe its aspect, or ascertain with accuracy its direction. At noon our
latitude, by observation, was 55° 52', and longitude (deduced from a
comparison of many lunar observations, taken near this time, with the time-
keepers), 163° 50'; the extremities of the land bearing N.W. by W. 3/4 W.,
and N. by W. 3/4 W., the nearest part about eight leagues distant. At nine
o'clock in the evening, having approached about two leagues nearer the
coast, we found it formed a projecting peninsula, extending about twelve
leagues in a direction nearly north and south. It is level, and of a
moderate height, the southern extremity terminating in a low sloping point;
that to the north forming a steep bluff head; and between them, about four
leagues to the southward of the northern cape, there is a considerable
break in the land. On each side of this break the land is quite low; beyond
the opening rises a remarkable saddle-like hill; and a chain of high
mountains, covered with snow, ranges along the back of the whole peninsula.
As the coast runs in an even direction, we were at a great loss where to
place Kamtschatskoi Noss, which, according to Muller, forms a projecting
point about the middle of the peninsula, and which certainly does not
exist; but I have since found, that in the general map published by the
Academy of Petersburgh in 1776, that name is given to the southern cape.
This was found, by several accurate observations, to be in latitude 56° 3',
longitude 163° 20'; the difference, in longitude, from the Russian charts,
being the same as at Kronotskoi Noss. The variation of the compass at this
time was 10° E. To the southward of this peninsula, the great river
Kamtschatka falls into the sea.
As the season was too far advanced to admit of our making an accurate
survey of the coast of Kamtschatka, it was Captain Clerke's plan, in our
run to Beering'a Strait, to determine principally the positions of the
projecting points of the coast. We therefore directed our course across an
extensive bay, laid down between Kamtschatskoi Noss and Olutorskoi Noss,
intending to make the latter; which, according to the Russian geographers,
terminates the peninsula called Kamtschatka, and becomes the southern
boundary of the Koriaki country.
On the 22d we passed a dead whale, which emitted a horrid stench,
perceivable at upward of a league's distance; it was covered with a great
number of sea-birds, that were feasting on it.
On the 24th, the wind, which had varied round the compass the three
preceding days, fixed at S.W., and brought clear weather, with which we
continued our course to the N.E. by N. across the bay, without any land in
sight.
This day we saw a great number of gulls, and were witnesses to the
disgusting mode of feeding of the arctic gull, which has procured it the
name of the parasite; and which, if the reader is not already acquainted
with it, he will find in the note below.[22]
On the 25th, at one o'clock in the afternoon, being in latitude 59° 12',
longitude 168° 35', the wind freshening from the same quarter, a thick fog
succeeded; and this unfortunately just at the time we expected to see
Olutorskoi Noss, which, if Muller places it right in latitude 59° 3O', and
in longitude 167°36', could only have then been twelve leagues from us; at
which distance, land of a moderate height might easily have been seen. But
if the same error in longitude prevails here, which we have hitherto
invariably found, it would have been much nearer us, even before the fog
came on; and as we saw no appearances of land at that time, it must either
have been very low, or there must be some mistake of latitude in Muller's
account. We tried soundings, but had no ground with one hundred and sixty
fathoms of line.
The weather still thickening, and preventing a nearer approach to the land,
at five we steered E. by N., which is somewhat more easterly than the
Russian charts lay down the trending of the coast from Olutorskoi Noss. The
next day we had a fresh gale from the S.W., which lasted till the 27th at
noon, when the fogs clearing away, we stood to the northward, in order to
make the land. The latitude at noon, by observation, was 59° 49', longitude
175° 43'. Notwithstanding we saw shags in the forenoon, which are supposed
never to go far from land, yet there was no appearance of it this day; but
on the 28th, at six in the morning, we got sight of it to the N.W. The
coast shews itself in hills of a moderate height; but inland, others are
seen to rise considerably. We could observe no wood, and the snow lying
upon them in patches, gave the whole a very barren appearance. At nine we
were about ten miles from the shore, the southern extremity bearing W. by
S., six leagues distant, beyond which the coast appeared to trend to the
westward. This point being in latitude 61° 48', longitude 174°, 48', lies,
according to the Russian charts, near the mouth of the river Opuka. At the
same time the northern extreme bore N. by W.; between which and a hill
bearing N.W. by W. 1/4 W., and at this distance appearing to us like an
island, the coast seemed to bend to the westward, and form a deep bay.
About eight miles from land, we perceived ourselves in a strong rippling;
and being apprehensive of foul ground, we bore away to the N.E., along the
shore; notwithstanding, on heaving the lead, we found regular soundings of
twenty-four fathoms, over a gravelly bottom; from whence we concluded, that
this appearance was occasioned by a tide, at that time running to the
southward. At noon, the extremes of the land bearing W.S.W. 3/4 W., and
N.N.E. 3/4 E., distant from the nearest shore four leagues, we were abreast
of the low land, which we now perceived to join the two points, where we
had before expected to find a deep bay. The coast bends a little to the
westward, and has a small inlet, which may probably be the mouth of some
trifling stream. Our latitude, by observation, was 61° 56', and longitude
175° 43', and the variation of the compass 17° 30' E.
We continued during the afternoon to run along the shore, at the distance
of four or five leagues, with a moderate westerly breeze, carrying regular
soundings from twenty-eight to thirty-six fathoms. The coast presented the
same barren aspect as to the southward; the hills rising considerably
inland, but to what height, the clouds on their tops put it out of our
power to determine. At eight in the evening, land was thought to have been
seen to the E. by N., on which, we steered to the southward of E.; but it
turned out to be only a fog-bank. At midnight, the extreme point bearing
N.E. 1/4 E., we supposed it to be Saint Thadeus's Noss; to the southward of
which the land trends to the westward, and forms a deep bight, wherein,
according to the Russian charts, lies the river Katirka.
On the 29th, the weather was unsettled and variable, with the wind from the
N.E. At noon of the 30th, our latitude, by observation, was 61° 48', and
longitude 180° 0'; at which time Saint Thadeus's Noss bore N.N.W., twenty-
three leagues distant, and beyond it we observed the coast stretching
almost directly N. The most easterly point of the Noss is in latitude 62°
50', and longitude 179° 0', being 3-1/2° more to the E. than what the
Russians make it. The land about it must be of a considerable height, from
its being seen at so great a distance. During the two last days, we saw
numbers of whales, large seals, and sea-horses; also gulls, sea-parrots,
and albatrosses. We took the advantage of a little calm weather to try for
fish, and caught abundance of fine cod. The depth of water from sixty-five
to seventy-five fathoms.
On the 1st of July at noon, Mr Bligh having moored a small keg with the
deep-sea lead, in seventy-five fathoms, found the ship made a course N. by
E., half a mile an hour. This he attributed to the effect of a long
southerly swell, and not to that of any current. The wind freshening from
the S.E. toward evening, we shaped our course to the N.E. by E., for the
point called in Beering's chart Tschukotskoi Noss, which we had observed on
the 4th of September last year, at the same time that we saw, to the S E.,
the island of Saint Laurence. This cape, and Saint Thadeus's Noss, form the
N.E. and S.W. extremities of the large and deep gulph of Anadir, into the
bottom of which the river of that name empties itself, dividing as it
passes the country of the Koriacs from that of the Tschutski.
On the 3d at noon, the latitude, by observation, was 63° 33', and the
longitude 186° 45'; half an hour after which we got sight of the
Tschukotskoi Noss, bearing N. 1/2 W., thirteen or fourteen leagues distant;
and at five in the afternoon saw the island of Saint Laurence, bearing E.
3/4 N.; and another island a little to the eastward of it, which we
supposed to be between Saint Laurence and Anderson's Island, about six
leagues E.S.E. of the former. As we had no certain accounts of this island,
Captain Clerke was desirous of a nearer prospect, and immediately hauled
the wind toward it; but unfortunately we were not able to weather the
island of Saint Laurence, and were therefore under the necessity of bearing
up again, and passing them all to the leeward.
We had a better opportunity of settling the longitude of the island Saint
Laurence, when we last saw it than now. But seeing it at that time but
once, and to the southward, we could only determine its latitude so far as
we could judge of distances; whereas now the noon observations enabled us
to ascertain it correctly, which is 63° 47'. Its longitude was found to be
188° 15' as before. This island, if its boundaries were at this time within
our view, is about three leagues in circuit. The north part may be seen at
the distance of ten or twelve leagues; but as it falls in lowland to the
south-east, the extent of which we could not see, some of us conjectured
that it might probably be joined to the land to the eastward of it; this,
however, the haziness of the weather prevented our ascertaining. These
islands, as well as the land about the Tschukotskoi Noss, were covered with
snow, and presented us with a most dreary picture. At midnight, Saint
Laurence bore S.S.E., five or six miles distant; and our depth of water was
eighteen fathoms. We were accompanied by various kinds of sea-fowl, and saw
several small crested hawks.
The weather still continuing to thicken, we lost all sight of land till the
5th, when it appeared both to the N.E. and N.W, Our latitude, by account,
was at this time 65° 24', longitude 189° 14'. As the islands of Saint
Diomede, which lie between the two continents in Beering's strait, were
determined by us last year to be in latitude 65° 48', we could not
reconcile the land to the N.E., with the situation of these islands. We
therefore stood toward the land till three in the afternoon, when we were
within four miles of it, and finding it to be two islands, were pretty well
satisfied of their being the same; but the weather still continuing hazy,
to make sure of our situation, we stood over to the coast of Asia till
seven in the evening; at which time we were within two or three leagues of
the east cape of that continent.
This cape is a high round head of land, extending four or five miles from
north to south, forming a peninsula, and connected with the continent by a
narrow neck of low land. Its shore is bold, and off its north part are
three high, detached, spiral rocks. At this time it was covered with snow,
and the beach surrounded with ice. We were now convinced, that we had been
under the influence of a strong current, setting to the north, that had
caused an error in our latitude at noon of twenty miles. In passing this
strait the last year, we had experienced the same effect.
Being at length sure of our position, we held on to the N. by E. At ten at
night the weather becoming clear, we had an opportunity of seeing, at the
same moment, the remarkable peaked hill, near Cape Prince of Wales, on the
coast of America, and the east cape of Asia, with the two connecting
islands of Saint Diomede between them.[23]
At noon on the 6th, the latitude, by account, was 67° N., and the longitude
191° 6' E. Having already passed a considerable number of large masses of
ice, and observed that it still adhered in several places to the shore on
the continent of Asia, we were not much surprised to fall in, at three in
the afternoon, with an extensive body of it, stretching away to the
westward. This sight gave great discouragement to our hopes of advancing
much farther northward this year, than we had done the preceding.
Having little wind in the afternoon, we hoisted out the boats in pursuit of
the sea-horses, which were in great numbers on the detached pieces of ice;
but they soon returned without success; these animals being exceedingly
shy, and before they could come within gun-shot always making their retreat
into the water.
At seven in the evening we hoisted in the boats, and the wind freshening
from the southward, we stood on to the N.E., with a view of exploring the
continent of America, between the latitudes of 68° and 69°, which,
owing to the foggy weather last year, we had not been able to examine. In
this attempt we were again in part disappointed. For on the 7th, at six in
the morning, we were stopped by a large field of ice, stretching from N.W.
to S.E.; but soon after, the horizon becoming clear, we had sight of the
coast of America, at about ten leagues distance, extending from N.E. by E.
to E., and lying, by observation, between the 68° and 68° 20' of latitude.
As the weather was clear, and the ice not high, we were enabled to see over
a great extent of it. The whole presented a solid and compact surface, not
in the smallest degree thawed; and appeared to us likewise to adhere to the
land.
The weather soon after changing to hazy, we saw no more of the land; and
there not remaining a possibility of approaching nearer to it, we stood to
the N.N.W., keeping the ice close on board, and got round its western
extremity by noon, when we found it trending nearly N. Our latitude at this
time was, by account, 68° 22', and longitude 192° 34'. We continued our
course to the N.N.E., along the edge of the ice, during the remaining part
of the day, passing through many loose pieces that had been broken, off
from the main body, and against which, notwithstanding all our caution, the
ships were driven with great violence. At eight o'clock in the evening, we
passed some drift-wood; and at midnight the wind shifted to the N.W., the
thermometer fell from 38° to 31', and we had continued showers of snow and
sleet.
On the 8th at five in the morning, the wind coming still more to the
northward, we could no longer keep on the same tack, on account of the ice,
but were obliged to stand to the westward. At this time our soundings had
decreased to nineteen fathoms, from which, on comparing it with our
observations on the depth of water last year, we concluded that we were not
at a greater distance from the American shore than six or seven leagues;
but our view was confined within a much shorter compass, by a violent fall
of snow. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 21', longitude 192°
42'. At two in the afternoon the weather cleared up, and we found ourselves
close to an expanse of what appeared from the deck solid ice; but, from the
mast-head, it was discovered to be composed of huge compact bodies, close
and united toward the outer edge, but in the interior parts several
pieces were seen floating in vacant spaces of the water. It extended from
N.E. by the N. to W.S.W. We bore away by the edge of it to the southward,
that we might get into clearer water; for the strong northerly winds had
drifted down such quantities of loose pieces, that we had been for some
time surrounded by them, and could not avoid striking against several,
notwithstanding we reefed the topsails, and stood under an easy sail.
On the 9th we had a fresh gale from the N.N.W., with heavy showers of snow
and sleet. The thermometer was in the night time 28°, and at noon 30°. We
continued to steer W.S.W., as before, keeping as near the large body of ice
as we could, and had the misfortune to rub off some of the sheathing from
the bows against the drift pieces, and to damage the cutwater. Indeed, the
shocks we could not avoid receiving, were frequently so severe, as to be
attended with considerable danger. At noon, the latitude, by account, was
69° 12',. and longitude 188° 5'. The variation in the afternoon was found
to be 29° 30' E.
As we had now sailed near forty leagues to the westward, along the edge of
the ice, without seeing any opening, or a clear sea to the northward beyond
it, and had therefore no prospect of advancing farther N. for the present,
Captain Clerke resolved to bear away to the S. by E. (the only quarter that
was clear), and to wait till the season was more advanced, before he made
any farther efforts to penetrate through the ice. The intermediate time he
proposed to spend in examining the bay of Saint Laurence, and the coast to
the southward of it; as a harbour so near, in case of future damage from
the ice, would be very desirable. We also wished to pay another visit to
our Tschutski friends; and particularly since the accounts we had heard of
them from the commander of Kamtschatka.
We therefore stood on to the southward, till the noon of the 10th, at which
time we passed great quantities of drift-ice, and the wind fell to a
perfect calm. The latitude, by observation, was 68° 1', longitude 188° 30'.
We passed several whales in the forenoon, and in the afternoon hoisted out
the boats, and sent them in pursuit of the sea-horses, which were in great
numbers on the pieces of ice that surrounded us. Our people were more
successful than they had been before, returning with three large ones and a
young one; besides killing and wounding several others. The gentlemen who
went on this party were witnesses of several remarkable instances of
parental affection in those animals. On the approach of our boats toward
the ice, they all took their cubs under their fins, and endeavoured to
escape with them into the sea. Several, whose young were killed or wounded,
and left floating on the surface, rose again, and carried them down,
sometimes just as our people were going to take them up into the boat; and
might be traced bearing them to a great distance through the water, which
was coloured with their blood; we afterward observed them bringing them at
times above the surface, as if for air, and again diving under it with a
dreadful bellowing. The female, in particular, whose young had been
destroyed, and taken into the boat, became so enraged, that she attacked
the cutter, and struck her two tusks through the bottom of it.
At eight in the evening, a breeze sprang up to the eastward, with which we
still continued our course to the southward, and at twelve fell in with
numerous large bodies of ice. We endeavoured to push through them with an
easy sail, for fear of damaging the ship; and having got a little farther
to the southward, nothing was to be seen but one compact field of ice,
stretching to the S.W., S.E., and N.E., as far as the eye could reach. This
unexpected and formidable obstacle put an end to Captain Clerke's plan of
visiting the Tschutski; for no space remained open, but back again to the
northward. Accordingly, at three in the morning of the 11th, we tacked, and
stood to that quarter. At noon, the latitude, by observation, was 67° 49',
and longitude 188° 47'.
On the 12th, we had light winds, with thick hazy weather; and on trying the
current, we found it set to the N.W., at the rate of half a knot an hour.
We continued to steer northward, with a moderate southerly breeze and fair
weather till the 13th, at ten in the forenoon, when we again found
ourselves close in with a solid field of ice, to which we could see no
limits from the mast-head. This at once dashed all our hopes of penetrating
farther, which had been considerably raised, by having now advanced near
ten leagues through a space, which on the 9th we had found occupied by
impenetrable ice. Our latitude at this time was 69° 37'; our position
nearly in the mid-channel between tween the two continents; and the field
of ice extending from E.N.E. to W.S.W.
As there did not remain the smallest prospect of getting farther north in
the part of the sea where we now were, Captain Clerke resolved to make one
more and final attempt on the American coast, for Baffin's Bay, since we
had been able to advance the farthest on this side last year. Accordingly
we kept working the remaining part of the day to the windward, with a fresh
easterly breeze. We saw several fulmars and arctic gulls, and passed two
trees, both appearing to have lain in the water a long time. The larger was
about ten feet in length, and three in circumference, without either bark
or branches, but with the roots remaining attached.
On the 14th, we stood on to the eastward, with thick and foggy weather, our
course being nearly parallel to that we steered the 8th and 9th, but six
leagues more to the northward. On the 15th, the wind freshened from the
westward, and having in a great measure dispersed the fog, we immediately
stood to the northward, that we might take a nearer view of the ice; and in
an hour were close in with it, extending from N.N.W. to N.E. We found it to
be compact and solid; the outer parts were ragged, and of different
heights; the interior surface was even, and we judged from eight to ten
feet above the level of the sea. The weather becoming moderate for the
remaining part of the day, we directed our course according to the trending
of the ice, which in many parts formed deep bays.
In the morning of the 16th the wind freshened, and was attended with thick
and frequent showers of snow. At eight in the forenoon, it blew a strong
gale from the W.S.W., and brought us under double-reefed top-sails; when
the weather clearing a little, we found ourselves embayed, the ice having
taken a sudden turn to the S.E., and in one compact body surrounding us on
all sides, except on the south quarter. We therefore hauled our wind to the
southward, being at this time in latitude 70° 8' N., and in twenty-six
fathoms water; and, as we supposed, about twenty-five leagues from the
coast of America. The gale increasing, at four in the afternoon we close
reefed the fore and main top-sails, furled the mizen-top-sail, and got the
top-gallant-yards down upon deck. At eight, finding the depth of water had
decreased to twenty-two fathoms, which we considered as a proof of
our near approach to the American coast, we tacked and stood to the north.
We had blowing weather, accompanied with snow, through the night; but next
morning it became clear and moderate, and at eight in the forenoon we got
the top-gallant yards across, and made sail with the wind still at W.S.W.
At noon we were in latitude, by observation, 69° 55', longitude 194° 30'.
Toward evening the wind slackened, and at midnight it was a calm.
On the 18th, at five in the morning, a light breeze sprung up from the
E.N.E., with which we continued our course to the north, in order to regain
the ice as soon as possible. We passed some small logs of drift-wood, and
saw abundance of sea-parrots, and the small ice-birds, and likewise a
number of whales. At noon the latitude, by observation, was 70° 26', and
longitude 194° 54'; the depth of water twenty-three fathoms; the ice
stretched from N. to E.N.E., and was distant about three miles. At one in
the afternoon, finding that we were close in with a firm united field of
it, extending from W.N.W. to E., we tacked, and the wind coming round to
the westward, stood on to the eastward, along its edge, till eleven at
night. At that time a very thick fog coming on, and the water shoaling to
nineteen fathoms, we hauled our wind to the south. The variation observed
this day was 31° 20' E. It is remarkable, that though we saw no sea-horses
on the body of the ice, yet they were in herds, and in greater numbers on
the detached fragments, than we had ever observed before. About nine in the
evening, a white bear was seen swimming close by the Discovery; it
afterward made to the ice, on which were also two others.
On the 19th, at one in the morning, the weather clearing up, we again
steered to the N.E. till two, when we were a second time so completely
embayed, that there was no opening left but to the south; to which quarter
we accordingly directed our course, returning through a remarkably smooth
water, and with very favourable weather, by the same way we had come in. We
were never able to penetrate farther north than at this time, when our
latitude was 70° 33'; and this was five leagues short of the point to which
we advanced last season. We held on to the S.S.W., with light winds from
the N.W., by the edge of the main ice, which lay on our left hand, and
stretched between us and the continent of America. Our latitude, by
observation at noon, was 70° 11', our longitude 196° 15', and the depth of
water sixteen fathoms. From this circumstance, we judged that the Icy Cape
was now only at seven or eight leagues distance; but though the weather was
in general clear, it was at the same time hazy in the horizon; so that we
could not expect to see it.[24]
In the afternoon we saw two white bears in the water, to which we
immediately gave chase in the jolly-boat, and had the good fortune to kill
them both. The larger, which probably was the dam of the younger, being
shot first, the other would not quit it, though it might easily have
escaped on the ice whilst the men were reloading, but remained swimming
about, till after being fired upon several times, it was shot dead.
The dimensions of the larger were as follow:
Ft. In.
From the snout to the end of the tail 7 2
From the snout to the shoulder-bone 2 3
Height of the shoulder 4 3
Circumference near the fore-legs 4 10
Breadth of the fore-paw 10
lb.
Weight of the four quarters 436
Weight of the four quarters of the smallest 256
On comparing the dimensions of this with Lord Mulgrave's white bear, they
were found almost exactly the same, except in the circumference, where
our's fell exceedingly short.
These animals afforded us a few excellent meals of fresh meat. The flesh
had, indeed, a strong filthy taste, but was, in every respect infinitely
superior to that of the sea-horse; which nevertheless our people were again
persuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer to their salted provisions.
At six in the morning of the 20th, a thick fog coming on, we lost sight of
the ice for two hours; but the weather clearing, we saw the main body again
to the S.S.E., when we hauled our wind, which was easterly, toward it, in
the expectation of making the American coast to the S.E., and which we
effected at half past ten. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 33',
and longitude 194° 53', and the depth of water nineteen fathoms. The land
extended from S. by E. to S.S.W. 1/2 W., distant eight or ten leagues,
being the same we had seen last year; but it was now much more covered with
snow than at that time, and to all appearance the ice adhered to the shore.
We continued in the afternoon sailing through a sea of loose ice, and
standing toward the land, as near as the wind, which was E.S.E., would
admit. At eight the wind lessening, there came on a thick fog, and on
perceiving a rippling in the water, we tried the current, which we found to
set to the E.N.E., at the rate of a mile an hour, and therefore determined
to steer during the night before the wind, in order to stem it, and to
oppose the large fragments of loose ice that were setting us on toward the
land. The depth of the water at midnight was twenty fathoms.
At eight in the morning of the 21st, the wind freshening, and the fog
clearing away, we saw the American coast to the S.E., at the distance of
eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it; but were stopped again by the
ice, and obliged to bear away to the westward, along the edge of it. At
noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 34', and longitude 193°, and the
depth of water twenty-four fathoms.
Thus a connected solid field of ice, rendering every effort we could make
to a nearer approach to the land fruitless, and joining as we judged to it,
we took a last farewell of a N.E passage to Old England. I shall beg leave
to give, in Captain Clerke's own words, the reasons of this his final
determination, as well as of his future plans; and this the rather, as it
is the last transaction his health permitted him to write down.
"It is now impossible to proceed the least farther to the northward upon
this coast (America); and it is equally as improbable that this amazing
mass of ice should be dissolved by the few remaining summer-weeks which
will terminate this season; but it will continue, it is to be believed, as
it now is, an insurmountable barrier to every attempt we can possibly make.
I therefore think it the best step that can be taken, for the good of the
service, to trace the sea over to the Asiatic coast, and to try if I can
find any opening, that will admit me farther north; if not, to see what
more is to be done upon that coast; where I hope, yet cannot much flatter
myself, to meet with better success; for the sea is now so choaked with
ice, that a passage, I fear, is totally out of the question."
[21] Krusenstern substantially admits the correctness of Captain King's
statement respecting the Russian hospital, &c. by saying, expressively
enough, things are not quite so bad at present. It is evident,
however, from his remarks, that the change to the better is almost to
the full amount of being imperceptible, notwithstanding the zeal of
some individuals whose exertions he is anxious to eulogize, and his
own disposition to believe that their well-meant exertions have not
been entirely fruitless. The change, it would seem, consists in the
greater quantities of medicine sent to Kamtschatka, and not in the
greater practicability of judiciously applying them. This, most
persons of discernment will shrewdly suspect, is several degrees worse
than problematically a change to the better. At least one could
scarcely help desiring rather to accept peaceably the warrant of a
natural death, than to risk the enhancement of a conflict on the
doubtful aid of a bungling doctor, whose chief recommendation,
perhaps, if he would but allow himself to be favoured by it, consisted
in his avowed ignorance securing his neutrality. In such a case,
indeed, and it seems on the whole to be almost the very one which K.
describes, it is obvious enough that the medicines can at least do no
more harm than the bottles and boxes that contain them; but then one
cannot easily perceive wherein consists the merit or utility of having
provided them, unless, as in the instance of fire-arms hung over the
chimney never to be loaded or fired, or in that of idols of wood and
stone which adorn the temples of pagans, but which can neither receive
nor bestow favours, we shall suppose that the imagination of some
potential advantages is quite equivalent to the reality of their
operation. Krusenstern has some sensible remarks on the proper method
of supplying Kamtschatka with well-qualified physicians, but they are
of course foreign to this place, and cannot, therefore, properly be
introduced.--E.
[22] This bird, which is somewhat larger than the common gull, pursues the
latter kind whenever it meets them; the gull, after flying for some
time, with loud screams, and evident marks of great terror, drops its
dung, which its pursuer immediately darts at, and catches before it
falls into the sea.
[23] The distance betwixt the two remarkable points now specified, it will
be proper for the reader to remember, is estimated at 13 leagues, or
about 40 miles, being the nearest approach of the two continents of
Asia and America yet ascertained.--E.
[24] Captain Cook then must still be allowed to have succeeded in getting
farther towards the north in this ocean, than any other navigator.
For, from the date of this voyage up to the present period, so far at
least as has been published, no one has surpassed the limit of his
examination. But it is obvious, from the very circumstance of the
difference betwixt the two attempts recorded in this voyage, that a
considerable variation in the state and intensity of the obstructing
cause may occur in various years. There is a probability then, that a
still greater difference might be experienced, affording a practicable
opportunity of getting still more towards the north than in either of
them. How far this probability, not a great one, as Captain King
afterwards suggests, ought to be considered, or how far the
expectation of any benefit arising from it, ought to influence in
directing another similar undertaking, it is not the province of this
work to speculate. But one cannot help remarking, that the Russian
government at least, might not be injudiciously employed in ordering
one or more vessels, properly fitted up, to be kept in readiness at
some port in this distant region of the empire, to take advantage of
any season more suitable than another, for prosecuting the enterprise.
Nay, is it not far from being romantic to imagine, that the two
friendly powers of Russia and Great Britain might actually find a
reward, in the promotion of their mutual interest, by a joint and
well-concerted plan for opening up a communication by any means
betwixt the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans? Both of them, one
should suppose, must be sensible, that the zeal of their intermediate
neighbour (if the expression may be used) the Americans, to discover
the practicability of a connexion, and of course to establish one
betwixt the opposite sides of the new continent, is not likely to
prove altogether fruitless, though perhaps there are still more
formidable difficulties in the way of its exercise. A little time will
probably demonstrate, that these politic republicans have not in vain
emulated the enterprising spirit, or commercial sagacity of the parent
state; and that neither of the other governments just now mentioned,
has fully profited of all the advantages which its possessions have
continued to hold out.--E.