SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW YORK.
A ride down the bay (June 8th), through San Mateo and Menlo Park,
some fifty miles to San Josè, completed my wanderings on the Pacific
Coast. The air at San Francisco, fresh from the ocean, was raw
and rasping; but at San Josè, sheltered by the Coast Range, the
thermometer measured over twenty degrees warmer, and the valley there
seemed sleeping in summer. The whole ride by railroad is through
farms and gardens, and San Josè itself we found embowered in roses
and foliage. Here are old Spanish convents and churches, with their
surroundings of vineyards, fig-trees, orange-groves, etc., as at
Santa Barbara and Los Angelos--only better preserved--and the ride
thither is a favorite excursion for San Franciscans and strangers.
The sleepy old town is in vivid contrast, with the rush and whirl of
the Golden Gate; and its soft and delicious air proves a soothing
balm, to the invalid and the weak. A fair hotel furnished good
entertainment, and the place seemed indeed like a haven of rest,
after "roughing it" so in the interior.
Returning to San Francisco, the last farewells were said, and June
10th, at 11 A. M., the good steamer _Constitution_ bore us away for
Panama. We had spent six months on the Coast, and would fain have
remained longer, especially to visit the "Geysers." But my official
work was ended; and besides, I was in receipt of private letters,
that required my presence East. The 10th was "steamer-day"--still a
recognized event in San Francisco. All business ended then; and from
then, began again. There was a bustle about the hotels, and an air
of importance everywhere. Hundreds thronged the vessel and wharf, to
see their friends off, and tarried till the last moment. But, prompt
to the minute, the _Constitution_ cast loose, and rounding into the
stream, was soon heading down the bay, for the Golden Gate and the
Pacific. Past Alcatraz and Angel Island, past Fort San Josè and Fort
Point, we reached the bar, and crossed it in a chopping sea, that
soon sent most of the passengers to their berths.
In San Francisco, the sun shone bright as we steamed away, but the air
was raw and chilly like our later autumn;[29] and once out at sea, we
found an overhanging mist, that often deepened into a winter fog. This
uncomfortable weather continued for a day or two, keeping most of the
passengers below deck--many of them sea-sick; but as we passed down
the coast, the weather gradually moderated, and soon we were sailing
beneath perfect skies, over, indeed, "summer seas." The rest of the way
down, what a superb voyage it really was! Looking back on it now, it
seems rather a grand picnic excursion, than a _bona fide_ journey by
sea. The ocean, in the main, proved itself truly Pacific. We were very
seldom out of sight of land by day. The purple, and crimson, and golden
hues of the Coast Range, were a perpetual wonder and delight. Schools
of porpoises, and now and then a vagrant whale enlivened the day; and
the phosphorescent waves, wide-spreading from our wake, made our track
a blaze of fire by night.
And what skies those were! By day, "deeply, darkly, beautifully
blue;" by night, one blaze of flaming stars. It was the very luxury
of travel--the very poetry of locomotion. Sometimes I would lie for
hours on deck, breathing in the balmy air, watching the gulls and
frigate-birds as they hovered in our wake, or gazing on far-off hill
and mountain, as the shore opened up before us--losing all sense of
thought and action, content solely with being. Even novel-reading
sometimes seemed a task, and writing a great burden. And when evening
came, we would sit and talk far into the night; or, leaning over the
guards, would watch the stream as of liquid fire, that boiled, and
curled, and rippled away beneath us.
As we got farther down the coast, the climate became warmer; but
blue-flannels and white-linens in place of winter-woolens, rendered
this endurable, and indeed the change from temperate to tropic--from
latitude 38° to 7°--did not seem so great after all, barring the
first day or two out from San Francisco. Some, however, who had
not provided themselves with such changes of clothing, complained
bitterly of the heat and lassitude, though most of us got on very
well. We had a thunderstorm one night, and a stiff rain next day,
when well down the Mexican coast; but otherwise were favored with
uninterruptedly fine weather.
From San Francisco to Panama is somewhat over three thousand miles,
and we were fifteen days in making it. Our steamer was a fine
specimen of her class, with a burden of 3,500 tons, and a carrying
capacity of eleven hundred passengers, besides freight. She measured
three hundred and forty feet in length, by forty-five feet in
beam, and her great deck morning and evening was a rare promenade.
Of passengers, we had only about four hundred; so that all had
state-rooms, and to spare. We carried our own beef, and mutton, and
poultry, to be slaughtered as wanted; and our fare, as a whole, was
excellent and generous. Our company, it must be confessed, was rather
heterogeneous, but altogether was social and enjoyable. We had army
officers and their wives, going east, on leave or transfer; a U. S.
Consul from the Sandwich Islands, _en route_ to Washington, on public
business; Englishmen from Hong Kong, bound for New York or London;
merchants, bankers, and gamblers from San Francisco; red-shirted
miners from Nevada and Arizona; and women of all sorts, from fine
ladies and true mothers, to dulcineas of dubious character. The
general decorum, however, was above criticism; and on Sundays, when
a San Francisco divine held service, all were attentive listeners,
notwithstanding his High-Church absurdities. The morning promenade on
deck, and the evening smoke on the guards, were the great occasions
for conversation, and all enjoyed them to the full.
Our first stopping-place was at Cape St. Lucas, the extreme point of
Southern California, where we put off two passengers, and took on
none. Thence, we crossed the mouth of the Gulf of California, and
halted at Manzanillo, Mexico--a little hamlet of two or three hundred
souls, the sea-port of the fine town of Colima, some seventy-five
miles inland. Here we put off a hundred tons of freight, intended
for the interior, and spent several hours. Eight days out, we
reached Acapulco, the chief Mexican port on the Pacific Coast, and
world-famous in other days, when Spain bore rule here. The harbor
is perfectly land-locked, with bold islands off the mouth and deep
water close in shore, and here ought to be a great and puissant city.
From San Francisco down, not counting San Diego, this is the first
really good harbor; and here is the great route for trade and travel,
across Mexico, _via_ the capital and Vera Cruz, to the Atlantic. Yet
we found only a squalid town of two or three thousand inhabitants,
mostly half-negro and half-Indian, with a trace of the Spaniard here
and there mixed in. A handful of Americans and Germans controlled
the business of the town; and as for the rest--they seemed to be
a lotus-eating, inert race, not inaptly denominated "greasers." A
general look of decadence prevailed everywhere; and if this be a
sample of Mexican civilization, after a trial of two centuries,
or more, alas for its future! Not a single wagon-road led from
the town inland, in any direction; and the only means of transit,
to or from the interior, was by horse or mule-back, over winding
mountain-trails, the same as in the days of Cortez.
We reached there June 18th, soon after breakfast; and had scarcely
rounded to, before the Philistines were--not exactly upon,
but--around us. They swarmed about our vessel in bum-boats and
dug-outs, of all shapes and sizes, tendering oranges, limes, bananas,
shells, etc., for a consideration--sending them up the ship's sides
by a cord and tiny basket, trusting us to return the agreed-for coin.
When these failed to please, they paraded their skill as swimmers and
divers, plunging under like ducks when a coin was tossed overboard,
and sure to catch it before it reached the bottom. With little or no
clothing, except about the loins, and often not that, they seemed to
be an amphibious sort of creatures--equally at home on land, or sea.
As we were to spend several hours here, taking in coal and water to
last to Panama, many of us embraced the opportunity to go ashore and
see something of the town. When we touched the beach, comely maidens
of coffee-colored complexion met us, with baskets and strings of
shells, to any of which we were heartily welcome, provided we paid
well for them. They always tender their wares as a "gift," a trick of
Acapulco's, as also of Manzanillo's and Panama's; but they invariably
expect more than their real value, in return. Passing on, we found
the town to consist of one-story adobes, with streets hardly more
spacious than good foot-pavements East, and with little business to
speak of, except what the tri-monthly steamers supplied. The stores
were chiefly baskets or boxes on the side-walks or street-corners,
and even these were in charge of women, while the lazy-looking
men "loafed" or lounged in the shade, sipping their aguardiente
or whiffing their cigarritos with infinite content. The flocks of
children, from infants to half-grown youths, were usually guiltless
of raiment, and all seemed supremely happy, if only sucking an orange
or munching a banana.
All gazed at Los Americanos with good-natured curiosity, and a score
were eager to show us to the U. S. Consulate, which was already
well-designated by the Stars and Stripes drooping idly from its staff.
The Consul himself, unfortunately, was absent; but his deputy, Mr.
Sutter, gave us kindly welcome, and we spent an instructive hour,
listening to his stories of Mexican life and manners. From there, we
went to the rude church or "cathedral," on the plaza; and found in its
tawdry ornaments and doll-like images--its wax-figure Christs, its
tissue-paper angels, and pewter amulets--an easy explanation of the
ignorance, and squalor, and stagnation of this people. The fat and
jolly priest suspended his devotions, to sell us pewter charms (he
swore, by the Virgin, they were silver!) that would insure us against
fever and shipwreck on the voyage; and afterwards he invited us round
to take a sip of aguardiente and see his favorite game-cock. Thence,
we strolled down the beach, between rows of palms and bananas, to the
old Spanish fort, and found it a solid and substantial structure still,
though a century or two old. True, it would not stand long before one
of our modern monitors; but it was a fine work in its day, and showed
well yet. A company or two of dirty and ragged soldiers constituted
the garrison--their uniforms heterogeneous, and their arms really
worthless. We sent our compliments to the commanding officer, hoping
to gain an entrance; but he was absent, and his pompous subordinate
declined to admit such Northern barbarians.
Returning to the _Constitution_, late in the afternoon we bade
good-bye to Acapulco; and thence, following the trend of the
continent, across the gulf of Tehuantepec, by Guatemala, by San
Salvador, by Nicaragua, by Costa Rica, and finally by New Granada, at
last, on the morning of June 25th, we cast anchor at Panama. During
all of this week's sail, we were hardly ever out of sight of land,
and usually were so near, that we could note the flocks and herds,
the houses and trees, and rich luxuriance of this tropical coast
generally, as we glided by. Lofty mountain-ranges and cone-shaped
peaks--old volcanoes now extinct, rising thirteen thousand and
fourteen thousand feet above the sea--were generally in view by day;
and at night fitful lightnings, playing apparently from peak to peak,
often lit up the whole heavens.
Here at Panama, the key of two continents and two oceans, we again
struck the busy currents of modern life, though but little belonged
to the natives there. The broad bay itself, with its shapely
islands of perpetual green, crowned with the ever-graceful palm and
banana, was a delightful scene, tropical thoroughly; but here also
were lines of busy steamers, from Chili and Australia, as well as
California, and the old harbor gave multiplied signs of life and
energy. The railroad to Aspinwall, costly as it was, both in life
and treasure, opened up a pathway across the Isthmus to the commerce
of the world, and Panama stands at the gate. In another land, or
with a better people, she would soon become a mighty metropolis.
But we found her much like Acapulco, though with broader streets,
better houses, and more population. I believe she claimed four or
five thousand inhabitants then; but they were chiefly a mixed race,
in which the most of what is really valuable in humanity seemed to
be dying out. They had no public schools, and scarcely knew what
popular education meant. Their churches, venerable only for their
age, but in this dating back to the Spanish conquest, were crumbling
to ruins. Their religion was only an ignorant superstition or
savage fanaticism. And their government, so-called, was in a state
of chronic revolution, so that nobody seemed to know when it was
_up_ or _down_. Of course, the real business of the town was in the
hands of foreigners--chiefly Americans, Germans, and English--and
these "pushed things," with much of their wonted skill and energy,
notwithstanding the climate. The natives, as a rule, contented
themselves with driving a petty traffic in parrots and shells,
oranges and bananas; and literally swarmed around us, until we were
weary alike of their clamor and dirt.
We reached Panama, as I have said, early in the morning, but did not
get off for Aspinwall until about noon. All this time was spent in
disembarking passengers, with their baggage, and fast freight; but,
at last, the impatient locomotive whistled "up brakes," and we moved
slowly off. The ride across the Isthmus is fifty miles, and is usually
made in two or three hours; but half-way across, a baggage-car broke
down, and we were detained four hours in an impenetrable jungle. It
had rained that morning at Panama, and the sun was still obscured; but
the air was dense with heat and moisture, that hung as if in strata
and folds about you, without a breath to disturb them--and to say we
steamed and sweltered, during those four long hours there, would only
half express our perspiring experience. All along the road, there
was a tropical luxuriance and splendor, which no word-painting can
describe, and here in this jungle both seemed to culminate. What we
in a sterner clime grow in hot-houses and conservatories, as rare
exotics, there rioted in the open air, as well they might, and all
nature seemed bursting with exuberance and richness. Underneath,
grasses and shrubbery so dense, that only the machete could clear
the way, or keep them under. Overhead, the lordly palm and gracious
banana, with flowering vines, pendent, interlacing, creeping, and
twining everywhere. Bread-fruit and bananas hung everywhere, in
clusters as big as half-bushel baskets; and here and there, birds of
brilliant plumage flitted to and fro, fit denizens with the chattering
monkeys, and screaming parrots, of such a wilderness. The whole ride,
indeed, through the heart thus of the tropics, after all, was a rare
experience; and the transition from the steamer to the railroad,
notwithstanding the heat, a welcome change.
The railroad itself seemed well built, and fairly managed. It was
said, indeed, to rest literally on human bodies, so many poor fellows
perished in the deadly miasmas, while constructing it. The ties and
sleepers were of lignum-vitæ, and the telegraph poles of terra-cotta
or cement, as nothing else would withstand the insects and moisture
of the Isthmus. The stations were well apart, and seemed maintained
solely for the convenience of the road, as hardly a passenger got
off or on, except employés of the company. We could see the natives,
as we passed along, lolling in their hammocks, or stretched out on
mats, in their rude huts of poles and palm-leaves; and their herds of
children ran everywhere at will, as naked as when born. Sometimes, a
few of the inhabitants clustered about a station; but as a rule, this
required too much effort, and they preferred to take their _dolce
far niente_ in their huts. The taint of the Spaniard seemed to be
over them all; or, else, nature was too kindly to them, removing all
incentive to exertion, by omitting the necessity for it.
We ran into Aspinwall at 6 P. M., and remained there until 8 P.
M. We spent the time in exploring the town, but found little to
interest any one. It had no storied past, like Panama; and its future
depended on--Pacific Mail. Some found cheap linens, wines, and
cigars, as Aspinwall was a free port, and laid in a stock for future
consumption, to the damage of our Customs Revenue. But the most of us
were sated and weary, with the day's rare experiences, and were glad
when the steamer's bell rang "All aboard!" Our High-Church chaplain
proved to be our only really useful man, at Aspinwall, after all.
He married a couple, while we halted there; and would have married
another, had there been time. Both had been waiting several weeks,
much-enduring souls--Aspinwall, it seems, not affording a minister.
Our complement of passengers had been swelled, by accessions
from Valparaiso and Melbourne; and hence, from Aspinwall to New
York, we were rather overcrowded. Our good ship _Rising Star_ was
staunch and sea-worthy; but without the roomy accommodations of the
_Constitution_, or her thorough appointments. Her beef and mutton
were all brought from New York on ice, to last for a twenty-day's
voyage to Aspinwall and back; and, before we reached New York, were
not like Cæsar's wife--above suspicion. But, on the whole, there was
little to complain of; and the ship's officers certainly did their
utmost, to make everybody content and comfortable.
Our route to New York, distant about two thousand miles, lay across the
Caribbean Sea, and thence off the eastern terminus of Cuba, through the
West Indies, home. We had some rough weather, with continuous thunder
and lightning, as it seemed, for a day or two, while crossing the
Caribbean. But, once past that, we entered a region of blue skies and
balmy breezes, and sighted New York in eight days from Aspinwall. We
passed Cuba so near, that her green hills and mountains seemed within a
stone's throw; and, threading the West Indies, struck the Gulf Stream,
whence both steam and current hurried us forward. We reached Sandy Hook
at sundown, July 3d, where they quarantined us till morning, much to
our disgust. But the 4th broke gloriously, over city and bay; and amid
ringing bells, and firing cannon, and fluttering bunting, we steamed
proudly up the harbor--it never seemed so magnificent before--and
touching the pier, thus ended our journey.
To land on such a day seemed a fit conclusion, to such a
twelve-month's ramble, across the continent and over the seas; and
that evening at home, surrounded by loving friends, seemed doubly
dear from the long absence and safe return. How much we had seen of
the Great Republic--only a little can be told here! How it enlarged,
and dignified, one's conception of the Fatherland! What a magnificent
country we really have--washed by two oceans, crowned with mountains,
and gemmed with lakes; and yet, evidently, it is only a prophecy
of that Greater America, when we shall occupy the continent, from
the Arctic down to the Isthmus, with teeming millions, and convert
the Pacific practically into a Yankee sea. Well might Whittier, our
truest seer, melodiously sing:
"I hear the tread of pioneers,
Of nations yet to be;
The first low wash of waves, where soon
Shall roll a human sea."
And, best of all, over all this broad land, there shall then be but
one flag and one freedom, one law and one liberty, one Right and one
Justice, for us and for all men--wherever born and of whatever faith,
however poor or however humble. And _to_ this end, and _for_ this
purpose, let us, and all who love the English-speaking race, if not
mankind, sincerely pray, God save the Republic!
In conclusion, let me add, to the many friends we met everywhere _en
route_, for their numberless kindnesses and unstinted courtesies, we
were much indebted; and I would gratefully record my sense of this
here. Nobler souls, more generous spirits, than most of the people we
encountered, especially in Colorado and California, never breathed;
and here is good fortune to them, one and all, wherever they may
chance to be! Surely, they have fought a good fight, in their rough
life on the border, preparing the way for civilization, and deserve
well of their country and their kind.
But, all things must end--this volume included; and so, O reader, in
the vernacular of the Coast, "_Adios_," and good-bye!
TRENTON, N. J., _March_, 1874.
FOOTNOTE:
[29] The evening before, I saw ladies at the opera, with their winter
furs on.
APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
On page 51, I speak of the Plains as the great stock-raising and
dairy region of America, in the future. As some evidence of how fast
this prophecy is becoming fact, I append the following extracts from
an article by Dr. H. Latham, in the _Omaha Herald_ of June 5, 1870:
"_Demonstrated Facts._--The season of 1870 has been a memorable one
in the stock business on the Plains. It commenced in doubt, but
closes with unlimited confidence in the complete practicability and
profits of stock-growing and winter grazing.
"_Increase of Cattle in the West._--The number of cattle in the country
west of the Missouri River and east of the Snowy Range, is now double,
if not four times larger than in 1869. Its present magnitude and future
prospects entitle it to a full share of public attention.
"_Shipments of Beef to Eastern Markets._--Two years ago our beef
and cattle were brought from the East. To-day, cattle-buyers from
Chicago and New York are stopping at every station on our railroads,
and buying cattle in all our valleys for Eastern consumption. It is
safe to predict that 15,000 head of beeves will be shipped from our
valleys East the present season. During the past week I have visited
some of the great herds on the Plains, and will give your readers an
account of them.
"_The Great Herds._--The herds of Edward Creighton, Charles Hutton,
and Thomas Alsop, are grazed on the Big Laramie, which is a tributary
of the North Platte. The Laramie Valley is between the Black Hills and
the Medicine-Bow Range. It is about one hundred miles long and thirty
miles wide. It is about midway in this valley, and six miles from the
railroad station at Laramie, that these gentlemen have located their
stock ranches. They have extensive houses, stables, and corrals. As we
leave the station on a beautiful August morning (which is characterized
by the clearest of blue skies and golden sunlight), you see Mount
Agassiz directly in front of you, while Mount Dix and Mount Dodge,
with snow-covered tops, are respectively on the right and left.
"We follow up the Laramie on a smooth road, which is like rolling
the wheels over a floor. We follow the windings of the stream,
which is clear as crystal, and pure as the snow from which its
waters have just come. We first come to a herd of 4,000, half and
three-quarter, breed cows; that is, there are none more than one-half
Texan, and many only one-fourth. They are known among cattle dealers
as short-horned Texas cattle. There are 3,600 calves in this herd,
that are from three-eighths to one-half Durham. These cows have been
here on the Plains one winter and two summers. All the dry cows are
exceedingly fat, and many of the cows, with calves by their sides,
are good beef. In this herd are many two-year-olds and yearlings,
all fat for the butcher, so far as their condition is concerned. In
all this herd there are as many as 9,000 head of cattle--4,000 cows,
3,600 calves, 1,000 two-year-olds, and 500 yearlings.
"_Their Habits._--They range over a country fifteen by twenty miles.
The cows and calves run together the year around, and, in fact, are
never separated, but run in families of four, generally, cow, calf,
yearling, and two-year-old. They are to be found on the river bottoms
in the middle of the day, where they had come about 11 o'clock for
water. They return about 4 o'clock in the afternoon to the high
grounds, where the rich bunch and the nutritious gramma grasses are
abundant, and feed till night, and lie down on the warm sandy soil
till next morning, when they feed till the heat of the day. It is
interesting to see the habits of these cattle when unrestrained by
herders. They travel back and forth to the water and grazing-ground
in families and little herds, in single file, like their predecessors
of the soil, the buffalo, forming deep paths, or trails, like them.
After having spent three or four hours looking at this herd, we pass
up the river to the beef herd, which consists of 3,500 fat Texas
cattle, in the very highest order at which grass-fed cattle arrive in
this world. These cattle have been here one or two seasons, and will
weigh, upon an average, live weight, 1,300 pounds. They could all be
sold to-day for Eastern markets at good figures. They have yet three
months of good weather to fatten this season, when, with 5,000 more,
bought by these enterprising men, and on their way here, they will be
sold East, or slaughtered and sent East in the quarter.
"There is, still higher up the stream, and nearer the mountains, a
stock herd of yearlings and two-year-olds, that occupy our time for
an hour or two.
"_Blooded Stock Cattle._--Then we cross over to Sand Creek, a small
branch of the Laramie, and see the herd of American cattle, which,
including Hutton's and Alsop's, numbers 400, mostly cows. They are
as fine stock as can be found anywhere. Among this herd are several
fine-graded Durham bulls, and two thoroughbreds that were bought
in Ohio at high prices. These parties are owners of 300 blooded
bulls, from which the finest calves are being raised by the cross
between them and the graded Texan cow. It is interesting for the
stock man to see these calves, which show the Durham so clearly in
every instance--another proof of the general law that the stronger
and better blooded of the two races will give form and impress to
the progeny. This fact is remarkably illustrated in these herds--the
second and third crosses leaving no trace of the Texan blood.
"Here, on this ranch, are 300 brood mares, and some young stock,
yearling and two-year-old colts, which have been raised here, and
have never been fed nor sheltered. They are as large and fine colts
as are raised anywhere. These brood mares and colts are herded, but
never stabled nor fed winters.
"_Sheep._--We next proceed to these flocks of sheep, which in all
number more than 10,000 head, besides the lambs--of these there are
3,000--making in all 13,000. Some of these are from New Mexico, but
the great majority are from Iowa, and are fine Merino sheep. They
will average fully five pounds of wool per head. Ample shelters have
been provided them in case of storm. Much the larger number of these
flocks are ewes. The owners expect to raise 6,000 lambs, and to shear
65,000 pounds of wool next year.
"These parties have about five miles of fence, inclosing hay grounds,
pastures for riding stock, and other purposes. They have, in all,
more than $300,000 invested here, which is a sufficient commentary
upon their enterprise, foresight, and courage. They are the great
stock princes of the mountains. Of all living men they have done most
to solve this question of winter grazing.
"We next proceed to the Little Laramie, where Messrs. Mautle & Bath
have 400 head of American and half-breed stock; they are at the old
stage-road crossing, and have some fine blooded stock. Above them,
behind Sheep Mountain, directly under the white top of Mount Dodge,
named after General Dodge, on the head of the Little Laramie, is a
valley twenty miles long and ten miles wide, divided about equally by
the north, middle, and south forks of that stream. These are rapid
running streams that never freeze in winter. They have groves of
timber on their banks and bottom lands furnishing shade in summer
and shelter in winter. This valley is a pocket in the mountains,
having only one point of ingress, and no egress but by the same way.
Here are 2,900 cattle owned by Lambard & Gray, of New York, Captain
Coates of the Army, and the subscriber. Three men are able to herd
them, from the nature of the valley, and it is certainly a cattle
paradise. Of this herd, 1,200 are cows, 700 two-year-olds, 300
yearlings, and 700 calves. This stock is short-horned Texan, and a
good lot of stock cattle.
"_Iliff's Herds on Crow Greek._--After leaving this herd, we take a
three-hours' run on the railroad, which takes us across the Black
Hills to Cheyenne, which is the headquarters of J. W. Iliff. His
cattle range is down Crow Creek to the Platte, twenty to thirty
miles. On this grazing ground he has 6,700 cattle, classed as
follows: 3,500 beeves, 2,000 cows, and 1,200 calves. The stock cattle
are half-breeds, except yearlings and calves, which he has raised,
and which show the Durham cross. The beeves are heavy, fat cattle,
ranging in live weight from 1,200 to 1,400 pounds. This whole range
down Crow Creek, from Cheyenne to the Platte, affords the best of
grasses, and the creek bluffs shelter the stock completely from
storms. Mr. Iliff has been the owner of great herds of cattle in the
last twelve years, and is firm in the faith that this is the place
to raise beef for Eastern markets. His cattle have sold in Chicago
market from five to six cents per pound, live weight, this season.
The whole 3,500 head of beeves will be shipped East this fall. Mr.
Iliff is another of those who have demonstrated to the world that we
have winter grazing, and in so doing he has made a fortune. Long may
such men live to enjoy their fortunes!
"On the other side of the Platte, on the Bijou, are the herds of the
Patterson Brothers, Reynolds, and John Hitson. These herds number
8,000 head of cattle, 6,000 of them being beef-cattle. The Patterson
Brothers are great cattle-raisers and dealers. They own ranches on
the Arkansas River, at Bent's Old Fort, and on the Pecos River, below
Fort Sumner, in New Mexico. They have handled hundreds of thousands
of dollars' worth of cattle in the last five years.
"John Hitson is another of the great cattle-raisers and dealers in
New Mexico. His herds are numbered by the thousands. His operations
are transferred to Colorado now, and so are those of the Patterson
Brothers. On Box-Elder Creek, which is a branch of the Caché la
Poudre, is the ranch and stock range of Mr. Whitcombe, an old settler
of Colorado. He has 2,000 stock cattle and some fine blooded bulls.
This range and shelter are perfect.
"Reed & Wyatt, on the Platte, nearer Denver, have 1,000 head of stock
and beef cattle. They are about adding largely to their number.
"Farwell Brothers, Greeley, have 200 head of fine American cattle.
"Baily, on the south side of the Platte from Greeley, has 400 head of
Durham and Devon stock, and 2,000 sheep.
"Geary, on the Platte, has 300 head of American cattle.
"The Lemons, at Greeley, have 400 head of American stock. In this
neighborhood, Ashcraft has 400 head of American cattle; Munson has
800 head of cattle and 3,000 sheep. Up the Caché la Poudre are twenty
large stock-raisers.
"On the Big and Little Thompson's there are some five herds of
blooded stock.
"After you leave Evans and go south towards Denver, the whole
country seems one pasture covered with stock. I travelled over this
same ground in 1869, and I am sure there are fully three times as
many cattle here now as then. There are hundreds of farmers on the
Lone-Tree Creek, Caché la Poudre, Big and Little Thompson's Creeks,
St. Vrain's, and many other streams which flow from the mountains to
the Platte, who have from one hundred to one thousand head of cattle,
a description of whose herds and grazing grounds would take too much
space in an article of this kind.
"_Shipments of Cattle West._--Colorado has sold an immense number of
cattle this season to Montana, Idaho, Nevada, and Utah. It is safe to
say that Montana will receive twenty thousand head of cattle during
the season of 1870, four-fifths of which are from Colorado. Many
have gone to Utah, Nevada, and Idaho from the same source, and yet,
ten years ago, the commercial and stock-growing people of the East
did not know that Colorado contained a thousand acres of grass land.
To-day they have no idea of the magnitude of her grazing resources.
"Leaving Colorado, we find some herds along the base of the Black Hills.
"_North of Cheyenne._--H. Kelly, on the 'Chug,' has 500 stock cattle.
He sold 100 head of American beeves at $70 per head.
"Messrs. Ward & Bullock, at Fort Laramie, have 200 head of American
cattle.
"Adolph Cluny, so long a resident on the North Platte, has a herd of
1,000 stock cattle between Forts Laramie and Fetterman.
"Between Cheyenne and Sidney, on the line of the railroad, there are
several small herds. At Sidney are the Moore Brothers, who have
12,000 sheep and lambs, and 1,400 cattle; 400 of the latter are
American and very fine. The sheep sheared an average of five pounds
of wool per head last spring. They are graded Merinos, and are in
fine condition. There is no disease among them. The Moore Brothers
were ranchmen on the South Platte, prior to the day of railroads,
and are about returning to that stream for grazing. Their place is
the Valley Station of olden fame on the stage road. Above them, on
the Platte, at the old 'Junction,' Mr. Mark Boughton has 2,500 stock
cattle. He has as fine a cattle range as there is in the world, not
excluding the Pampas of South America nor table-lands of Australia.
"Farther down the Platte, at O'Fallon's Bluffs, on the north side of
the South Platte, Creighton & Parks have 3,500 stock cattle, 400 of
which are Durhams. They range twenty miles up and down the Platte.
Near them, below, is the herd of Mr. Keith, of North Platte Station,
who has about 1,000 head.
"Mr. M. H. Brown has 500 head of stock cattle and beeves near the
same place.
"Across the Platte, in the neighborhood of Fort McPherson, the Bent
Brothers have 1,000 head of stock cattle, and will add another 1,000
the present season.
"Messrs. Carter & Coe have a large herd near there, which numbers
near a thousand.
"Mr. Benjamin Gallagher has 1,200 head at the old Gilman ranch,
twelve miles from McPherson.
"_Progress this Season._--More real progress has been made in stock
matters west of the Missouri this season than in all time before. We
have not only added to the numbers of our herds and flocks, but we
have given confidence to all our stock-growers and to Eastern people
in the permanency and profit of grazing in the Trans-Missouri country.
"We are now in easy reach of Eastern markets. The railways are
landing the heaviest cattle in Chicago from the Rocky Mountains at
$9 and $10 per head; we can sell thousands and tens of thousands
annually to the Pacific slope, and there is still an all-absorbing
home demand to stock our thousands of valleys.
"_The Future._--As every country in the West receives a new emigrant,
and his plow turns the grass under, that corn and wheat may grow in
its stead, the range of the stock-grower is that much contracted,
and the area of grazing lessened. By reason of the high value of
lands for grain-growing purposes the people of the country east of
the Mississippi River are already coming to us for beef and mutton.
Chicago and New York people are enjoying the juicy steaks from cattle
fattened on our nutritious grasses that grow in our valleys and on our
mountain-sides, close up to the perpetual snows of the Rocky Mountains.
"As immigration takes up more and more of the pastures east of us for
grain, drovers will be obliged more and more to come to us for beef.
Texas, the great hive of cattle, has received three hundred thousand
settlers this season. The grazing area of that State has been
lessened at least a million acres thereby. Everywhere events point to
this Trans-Missouri country as the future dependence of the East for
wool, beef, mutton, and horses."
* * * * *
PAGE 60.--The following article, clipped from the _New-York Times_,
contains so much valuable information, bearing on the question of
Irrigation, as related to the Plains and the great Internal Basin of
the Continent, that I venture to insert it here. It seems to be a
careful _resumé_ of the facts that were brought before the notable
Convention of Governors and others, that met in Denver in the autumn
of '73, to consider the question of a general and comprehensive
system of irrigation for all that region:
WATER SUPPLY FOR THE GREAT PLAINS REQUIRED.
_Correspondence of the New-York Times._
DENVER, Colorado, Friday, Oct. 17, 1873.
It is a fact, perhaps not generally considered, that the ninety-ninth
meridian of longitude west from Greenwich, the meridian of Fort Kearney
on the Platte, and Fort Hays, marks a division line in the physical
geography of the continent. Here the prairies merge into the great
plains, and the abundant rain-fall of eastern meridians ceases. West
of this line lies one-half of the area of the United States, all of
which, excepting a small strip on the shores of the Pacific, is without
sufficient rain-fall for the cultivation of the soil. This great arid
region comprises more than two-thirds of Kansas and Nebraska, a large
portion of California, Oregon, Washington, and Texas, and nearly all of
Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, New Mexico, Idaho, Montana, Arizona, Nevada,
and Dakota. Here are one million square miles of barren country, and
the question is, What shall we do with it?
The keen interest felt in this matter has been evident from the
large attendance upon this convention, and the mass of information
and argument presented. Whatever has been done thus far toward
reclaiming any portion of these waste lands has been by individual
enterprise, except in Utah and New Mexico a system of irrigation has
been enforced by legislative enactments. In New Mexico the acequias
are the most important features of the country. The subsistence of
the people depends upon them, and the laws protecting them fill many
pages of the statute books. An overseer of acequias is selected in
every precinct, who fixes the number of laborers to be furnished by
each land-owner, apportions their work, and distributes the water.
Yet not over 300 square miles is under cultivation in that Territory.
In Utah, where there is in operation the most complete and successful
system of irrigation in this country, only about 140,000 acres are
under cultivation. By legislative enactment the counties have power
to build canals just as they build roads. Water commissioners are
chosen at regular elections, in each county, and their services
are paid out of the general tax levy, and they give bonds for the
faithful performance of their duties. Subordinate commissioners, or
water masters, are selected by neighborhoods, cities, and towns, and
they are paid by assessments on the land. There are now over 1,200
miles of irrigating canals in Utah, with a capacity for watering
100,000 acres. The population of the Territory is upward of 150,000.
It has 190 prosperous towns and cities. Its farm products are
shipped into the neighboring Territories, and even into the Missouri
Valley. In Colorado there has been no general plan of irrigation.
Private corporations build canals and sell the water therefrom to
the ranchmen. Several of the towns are supplied in this way. The
colonies have also done much in this respect. But no general system
has been adopted in that Territory, nor has the legislature ever
taken cognizance of the situation. The same may be said of the other
States and Territories interested in this movement. Irrigation has
been limited. The few acres that have been reclaimed in the immediate
vicinity of the streams and cañons, near the mountains, bear no
comparison to the vast body of plain and desert stretching hundreds
of miles in every direction.
The cost of constructing irrigating canals varies according to the
character of the country. The average in Colorado has been $7 per
acre. It is thought by competent engineers that in a general system
of canals for the Plains, east of Denver, the cost must run from $10
to $15 per acre. According to careful estimates, Colorado has a
water supply sufficient to irrigate 6,000,000 acres, an arable area
which, in Egypt, in the times of the Ptolemies, supplied food for
8,000,000 people. The Plains, extending from the foot-hills of the
Rocky Mountains eastward nearly 300 miles, comprise about 25,000,000
acres. Of this vast tract there are 1,500,000 acres belonging to the
Kansas Pacific Railway Company, lying south of the Platte River,
and which a canal from the Platte Cañon to the headwaters of the
Republican will cover. Such a canal, 12 feet wide and 3 feet deep,
will cost $1,000 per mile. It will make lands that now go a-begging
at $2.50 per acre worth from $10 to $15.
The want of water is the one and only drawback to the settlement
of the Trans-Missouri country. Farming along the streams has been
carried on enough to show that the soil is not only fertile, but
extremely so, insuring, with plenty of water, crops surpassing those
of the best farming districts elsewhere. The average yield, year in
and year out, through the Rocky Mountain region, whenever irrigation
is employed, has been found to be as follows: Wheat, 27 bushels per
acre; oats, 55; potatoes, 150 to 200; onions, 250; barley, 33. This
is far above the average of Illinois or Ohio. It is believed that the
mountain streams, if turned into proper channels, will irrigate the
greater part of the Plains, both east and west of the Mountains. This
is particularly true of Western Kansas and Nebraska, Colorado, Utah,
Wyoming, and New Mexico. The great rivers of the Platte, Arkansas,
Rio Grande, and Colorado could be divided at or near their source in
the mountains, and made to cover vast quantities of land. In Utah,
it is proposed to take out canals from the Jordan, Weber, and Bear
rivers, diminishing the supply in Great Salt Lake, and distributing
it over other adjacent portions of the territory. And in California,
engineers have been sent out to turn the Colorado River into the
desert of Arizona, and Southern California.
* * * * *
PAGE 279.--Her statistics (San Francisco) for 1873 are equally
significant, and foot up about as follows: In that year over 70,000
people arrived there, by land and sea, and less than _half_ that
number departed. Nearly 4,000 vessels entered her harbor, measuring
about 2,000,000 tons. She exported 10,000,000 sacks of wheat, and
nearly 1,000,000 barrels of flour; and Californians claimed, it
wasn't much of a year for "wheat", either! The total wheat crop of
the State, which mostly sought her wharves, was estimated as worth
fully $26,000,000, or nearly $10,000,000 more than in 1872--prices
being higher; the wool-clip, say, $7,000,000; the wine product,
$2,000,000. Her total exports, of all kinds, was estimated at
about $80,000,000; and, best of all, while her exports had largely
increased, her imports had considerably decreased. Real estate had
been dull for a year or two, and yet her sales that year aggregated
about $15,000,000; while her mining stocks sold for $150,000,000,
and paid dividends about $14,000,000, as against less than half that
amount in 1872. The cash value of her property was estimated at
$250,000,000 and of the State at about $600,000,000.
California's yield of the precious metals in 1873 was estimated
at about $18,000,000, which was some two millions _less_ than in
1872, and was already surpassed by her magnificent wheat crop of
$26,000,000. Her total agricultural products for '73 were believed to
aggregate $80,000,000; while all her mines and manufactures produced
only about $70,000,000, though employing nearly double the number of
people. Evidently, with her vast area of 120,000,000 acres of land,
of which fully 40,000,000 are fit for the plow, our farmers there
have a brilliant future before them, notwithstanding they will have
to irrigate to raise some crops.
* * * * *
PAGE 324.--The following is a table of mean temperature at Santa
Barbara for the year 1870-1:
April, average of the three daily observations 60.62°
May, " " " 62.35
June, " " " 65.14
July, " " " 71.49
Aug., " " " 72.12
Sept., " " " 68.08
Oct., " " " 65.96
Nov., " " " 61.22
Dec., " " " 52.12
Jan., " " " 54.51
Feb., " " " 53.35
March, " " " 58.42
Average temperature for the year, 60.20°.
COLDEST DAY. WARMEST DAY.
April 12th 60° April 16th 74°
May 15th 66 May 23d 77
June 1st 69 June 3d 80
July 26th 76 July 11th 84
Aug. 11th 77 Aug. 8th 86
Sept. 23d 66 Sept. 27th 90
Oct. 23d 60 Oct. 20th 92
Nov. 7th 64 Nov. 20th 87
Dec. 15th 52 Dec. 28th 71
Jan. 11th 56 Jan. 3d 76
Feb. 22d 42 Feb. 28th 71
March 13th 56 March 27th 83
Coldest day in the year, Feb. 22d 42°
Warmest day in the year, Oct. 20th 92
Variation 50
Compare these with the average temperature of the Atlantic Coast,
say at Trenton or New York, and what a paradise for invalids Santa
Barbara must be.
* * * * *
PAGE 434.--Our yield of the precious metals for 1873 was
exceptionally fine, and the following table of the total for that
year, from the districts west of the Missouri River, gave immense
satisfaction on the Pacific Coast:
California $18,025,722
Nevada 35,254,507
Oregon 1,376,389
Washington 209,395
Idaho 2,343,654
Montana 3,892,810
Utah 4,906,337
Arizona 47,778
Colorado 4,083,268
Mexico 868,798
British Columbia 1,250,035
-----------
Grand total $72,258,693
The total yield for 1872 was only $62,236,913; so that here is a gain
of $10,000,000 or so in one year. This extra increase, however, was
chiefly from Nevada, whose total product, it will be seen, about equals
that of all the others; and it must be credited mainly to the great
Comstock Lode, whose ores, it is now about demonstrated, grow richer
and better, the deeper you go down, like the best mines of Mexico and
Peru. In 1871 they averaged only $27 per ton; in 1872 they increased
to $32; and in 1873 to $40. These figures well sustain Mr. Sutro's
theories, and his great tunnel may yet become a fixed fact, ere long.
INDEX.
Acapulco, 470
" people of, 470
" cathedral, 471
" fort, 472
Acequias, 82, 333, 487
Across the Mountains, 150
"Adios", 477
Adventure among Utes, 120-3
" " Dieganos, 351-2
" on bay of San Francisco, 294
" with grizzly bear and cubs, 459
Æsculapius, a son of, 272
Agua Frio, 287
Age of Big Trees, 463
Alkali region, 150-3
Alaska, 291
Alcatraz, 293
Alamo, 347
American eagle, 109
" Falls of Snake, 218
" a Representative, 332
Antelope, 37, 51, 149
Ancantash, 115, 125
Angel Island, 293
Anaheim, 340
Ancient ruins in Arizona, 395
Anomalies in Arizona, etc., 421
Arkansas, the, 82
" Valley of, 82-104
" Little, 104
Argonauts, Bret Harte's, 288
Army Life on Pacific Coast, 293
" -lady in Arizona, 413
" nurseries of the, 418
Arizona City, 355
Arizona generally, 372, 394
" her quicksands, 388
" her chief drawback, 414
" her anomalies, 421
" her ancient ruins, 395
" her quails and rabbits, 409-21
" her mines, 378, 399, 414
Assays, mining, 68
Astoria, 270
Asylums, Chinese, 312-14
Aspinwall, 475
Autocrat of Utah, 179
Aubrey City, 414
Average Westerner, 43, 98
" Coloradoan, 98
Aztecs, 367, 395, 406
Baker's Ranch, 55
Baille, a Mexican, 91-3
Bartering with Indians, 131-2
Baker City, 231
Banquet at Denver, 62
Bar of the Columbia, 271
Banquet at San Francisco, 304
Barbary Coast, " , 310
Bankrupt Law of Chinese, 312
Banning, Gen. P., 331-39-40
"Bed-rock", 73
Belvidere Apollo, 213
Bear River, 214
Bee-Hive House, 175
Better things ahead, 299
Bell's Cañon, 393
Beale's Springs, 410
Beaver Lake, 415
Bear Valley, 465
Bergh, Mr. Henry, 238
"Big Injun" stories, 38
Bierstadt's skies, 105
Bitter Creek, 150
" " country, 150-3
Bill of Fare, a hard, 221
Big Trees of California, 462
Black Hawk, 64
Black-Butte Station, 152
Blue Mountains, 234-6
Blackbirds at Tucson, 376
"Black's", 445
Boys in Blue, 28
Border missionary, a, 39
" bishop, a, 59
Bogus mining companies, 69
Boisè, valley of, 219
Boisè City, 223-6
"Borers", 377
Bower Cave, 445
Bradford's Hill, 110-12
Brent, John, 84
Bridger's Pass, 150
Bridger, Jim, 158
Brigadier-Generals abundant, 173
Brigham City, 212
Breakdown, a, 241
Breakdown, another, 246
Browne, Ross J., 70, 226
Brain of the Northwest, 266
Broderick monument, 280
Building stone, fine, 27
Buchser, M., 43
Buffalo region, 50
" grass, 50
" as engineer, 52
"Bull-drivers", 54, 237
Butte region, 78
Buckskin Joe, 107
Burt, Maj., 158
Burnt River, 228
Bunch-grass, 365
Cavalier and Corncracker, 23
Camping-out, 35, 76, 88, 349, 362, 419
" near summit of Rocky Mountains, 102
Cañon City, 81
Cañon, Echo, 159
" of Columbia, 255
Castle Rock, 78, 256
Castle Dome, 363
Carson, Kit, (see K)
Carson City, 436
Carter, Judge, 159
Carter, Colonel, 415
Cannon, George Q., 168
Calico horses, 252
Cascade Mountains, passage of, 255
Cascades, Lower, 255
California at last, 274
" her growth, 279, 489
" wines generally, 338
" natives, 293, 328, 342
" mines, 427
" live-oaks, 426, 441
" wheat-fields, 426, 441
" wind-mills, 441
" statistics, 279, 489
Cajon Pass, 422
Calaveras Big Trees, 463
Cape St. Lucas, 469
Cactus, columnar, 368
Carissa Creek, 349
Caribbean Sea, 476
"Cavalry Gregg", 407
Cayotes, or wolves, 216
Central City and mines, 62-4
Celilo, 253
Centipedes, 417
Central Pacific Railroad, 428
" its grades, 428
" snow-sheds, 429
Central America, 432
Chicago, 23
Cherry Creek, 53, 65
Chivington massacre, 139
Church Butte, 153
Children of Brigham Young, 180
Chinaman, John, 225, 268
Change from dry to wet, 258
Churches of San Francisco, 287
Christmas in San Francisco, 292
Chinese Question, the, 300-21
" merchants, 304
" New Year, 311
" bankrupt law, 312
" temple or Josh-house, 312
" religion, 314
China's necessity America's opportunity, 315-16
Chemisal, 345
Charley, Diegano, 351
Changes of elevation, 416
Cincinnati, 23
Cisco, 428
Clear Creek, 63-64
Claims, mining, 66
Clawson, Brig.-Gen., 175
Climate of Colorado, 76, 100, 143
" Oregon and Washington., 263
" San Francisco, 281, 467
" Santa Barbara, 324, 490
" San Diego, 328
" Los Angelos, 334
" of Mexican Coast, 468
" Isthmus of Panama, 474
Cliff House and sea-lions, 295-6
"Clarke's", 461
Clarke, Galen, 461
Coming man, 70
Companies, bogus, 69
_Compagnons du voyage_, 33
Costly supplies, 49, 375, 407
Coal, etc., 63, 153, 229
Copper, etc., 63, 378
Colorado ores, 68
" mineral resources, 69-71
" Springs, 80
" City, 81
" farming, 82
" desert, 344-46
Coloradoan, an average, 98
Corkscrew creek, a, 87
Costello, Judge, 107
Council, Indian, 114-16
Councils of war, 160
" Clive on, 160
Cox, Jack, 132
Courts, U. S., in Utah, 193-6
Columbia River, etc., 251
" Clarke's Fork of, 251
" bar of, 271
Conner, Capt., 270-3
Commerce and wealth of San Francisco, 279, 489
Comstock Lode, 433, 492
Coin _vs._ Greenbacks, 290
Conclusion as to Chinese, 320
Cock-fights, 335, 471
Cottonwood Cañon, 410
_Constitution_ steamer, 468
Colima, 469
Costa Rica, 472
Conclusion, 477
Coulterville, 444
"Crawford's", 244
Crossing the Rocky Mountains, 84, 150
" the Blue Mountains, 234
" bar of the Columbia, 271
" Gila and Salado, 383
" Sierra Nevadas, 428, 437
Cruelty Prevention Society wanted, 238
Cumming, Gov., 61
" his speech to Utes, 126
Currants, wild, 63
Culebra, 90
Cuba, 476
Dancing people, a, 92
Dance with Indians, a, 133
Dacotah, 150
Danites or Thugs, 189
Dalles, the, 254
Darwinism, 259
Dante's Inferno, 411
Denver, 58
" her growth, etc., 60
" reception of Sherman, etc., 62
Desert of the Mountains, 150
Deer, 410
Desolation, genius of, 411
Deserters, 422
Departure from San Francisco, 467
"Divides", 35, 73
"Diggings", 65, 107
Dirty Woman's Ranch, 78
Diabolo, Mt., 465
Divine, a High-Church, 469, 475
Dodge, Gen., 144, 248
Dogberry, an Idaho, 226
Donkeys, dilapidated, 234-8
Down the Columbia, 249
Donner Lake, 431
Down the Sierras, 438
Drive, an anxious, 239
Drake's Plantation Bitters, 249
Dry to wet, 258
Duck-shooting, 106-9
Duluth, 267
Eagle, a plucky, 108
Echo Cañon, 159
Election imbroglio, 61
Elk, 149
El Dorado Cañon, 414
Elevation, changes of, 416
Empire City, 107
Emigrant trail, 215
" a typical, 406
English capital, 62
Englishman, a sturdy, 67
Englishmen, enterprising, 443
Enforce the laws, 205
_Enfans terribles_, 249
Erie Railroad, 21
Exasperated teamster, 43
Exaggeration, Western, 96
Example, a shining, 298
Exploring the country, 386
Exploits of Apaches, 402
Fall-Leaf, 29
" his theology, 30
" his bravery, 31
Fancy Creek, 38
Fair Play, Col., 106
Falls of Snake River, 218
Fare, hard bill of, 221
Farewell Bend, 230
Farrallones, 295
Fatherland, our, 476
Fellow-passengers, 43
Fenian friends, 260
Fellow-passengers home, 469
_Fiat Justitia_, 321
Fish-hooks _vs._ ox-carts, 371
Flood-stayed, 382
Fluctuations of mining stocks, 435
Forethought, 239
Fourth of July, 476
Fort Alcatraz, 277, 294
" Benton, 252
" Boisè, 227
" Bowie, 376
" Bridger, 227
" Cameron, 376
" Cape Disappointment, 271
" Camp Cady, 421
" Camp Douglas, 170
" Colville, 251
" Churchill, 436
" Garland, 89, 114
" Goodwin, 376
" Grant, 377
" Halleck, 148
" Kearney, 40
" Laramie, 115
" Leavenworth, 29, 33
" Lovell, 376
" McDowell, 384
" Mojave, 413
" Morgan, 75
" McPherson, 48
" Point, 277
" Riley, 21, 33
" Rock Springs, 418
" San Josè, 277
" Sedgwick, 49
" Stevens, 271
" Stockton, 328
" Vancouver, 261
" Wallen, 376
" Whipple, 407
" Wicked, 54
" Yuma, 355
Fraser's River, 224
Freezing-out, 69
Fremont's old trail, 77
"'Frisco", 274-6
Frigate-birds, 274, 468
Fruit of Mormon teachings, 188
Fun, a little, 113
Gamblers, 59, 224
Gale, Judge, 59
Gate City, 63
Garden of the Gods, 79
Game, lack of, 103-4, 460
"Ganow's", 351
Germany, a bit of, 341
Germans, 24
" a frightened, 56
" enterprising, 100
" a plucky, 383
Getting under way, 34
Georgetown, 71
Geiger grade, 431
Genoa, 436
Gertrude Jane, 438
Gila City, 363
" River, 364
" valley of the, 364
" Bend, 366
" freshet in, 381
Give John a chance, 317
Good grazing region, 50
Golden City, 60, 63
Golden Gate, 276
Gold mines, 66
Gold and silver, our yield of 1873, 491
Gooseberries, wild, 63
Good missionary ground, 319, 361
Gov. Low on Chinese, 318
Grasshoppers, 36
Granite Creek, 398
Grande Ronde Valley, 232
Great West, the, 22
" American Desert, 51
" Salt Lake, 209
" American Falls, 218
" Bend region, 251
Gregory Gulch, 64
" Consolidated, 66
Greenhorn River, 82
Green River, 150-3
Gregg, Gen. Irvin, 407-8
"Greasers", 470
Grizzly bear and cubs, 459
Guaymas, 378
Guatemala, 472
Gulls, 274, 468
Gulf Stream, 476
Happy Family, a, 37
Halsey, Mr. Supt., 221
Hardyville, 413
Hardy, Mr., 414
Hassayampa, 387
Hermann, 25
Hercules of the Plains, 29
Hell Gate, 253
Hell Cañon, 405
Heller, Louis, 383
"Heathen Chinee", 301, 430
Hermitage, the, 458
Hincklin's, Zan, estate, 83-4
High Council of Mormon Church, 196-8
Homan's Park, 99
Hoosiers, 22
Holliday's Overland Stages, 41, 207
Holliday, Ben, 41, 152, 207
Holmes' One-Hoss Shay, 242, 418
Home again, 476
Honitos, 465
Hood, Mt., 256, 264, 269
Horse philosophy, 236-7
Horses, a fine team of, 234
How not to do it, 160
Huerfano River, 83
Hunt, Indian Agent, 116, 131
Hualapai Springs, 410
"Hutchings'", 449
Hydraulic mining, 427
Idaho Springs, 71
Idaho City, 224
Idaho, 223-6
" mines of, 226
" Dogberry, 226
Illinois and Indiana, 22
Indians, Apache, 401
" Arrapahoe, 54
" Cheyenne, 115, 127
" Chemehuevi, 424
" Comanche, 115, 127
" Delaware, 30
" Diegano, 350
" Hualapai, 412
" Maricopa, 369
" Mojave, 412
" Oregon, 252
" Pai-Utes, 412
" Papago, 380
" Pawnee, 38
" Pimo, 369
" Pottawatomie, 32
" Shoshone, 158
" Sioux, 55
" Umatilla, 245
" Ute, 114, 135
" Walla-Walla, 246
" Yavapai, 392
Indian corn, 27
" Point, 28
" idea of steam, 30
" " telegraph, 30
" rumors, 38, 55-7, 77
" council, 114, 116
" treaty, 113-36
" ponies, 116
" costumes, 117
" village, 118
" dogs, 118
" profanity, 119
" speeches, 127-9
" a sharp, 129
" bartering with, 131-2
" dance, 133
" squaws, 135
" generally, 135-6
" trophies, 143
" scare, 146, 419
" exploits of Apaches, 402
" their cunning, 403
" policy of Brigham Young, 212
" " our old, 370, 412
" " our true, 413
"Inside" _vs._ "Outside", 354
Inspiration Point, 457
Interview with Brigham Young, 176-9
" " U. S. Judge at Salt Lake, 189-98
Irish miners, 246
"Iron-clad" Christians, 289
Iron mines, 63
Irrigation, 60, 487
Isothermal lines, 263
Isthmus of Panama, 474
" " people, 475
Jackson, Gen., 29
Jack Cox, 132-3
Jack-rabbits and quail, 345
Jesus, Don, 92
Jerked beef, 118
Jewish synagogue, 286
Jews on Pacific Coast, 287
Jesuit missions, 326
Johnston, Albert Sydney, 159-60
John Day River, 254
John as a merchant, 304
" a banker, etc., 305
" an operative, 306
" a railroad builder, 307
" an actor, 308
" a gambler, 309
" a holiday keeper, 311
" a legislator, 312
" a heathen, 313-15
" give him a chance, 317
John Phœnix, 327
"Jordan is a hard road," etc., 236
Josh-house, Chinese, 312-14
Judge Costello, 107
" Gale, 59
" Lynch, 59, 62, 226
" Carter, 159
" a brave, 198
Julesburg, 49, 53
Junction City, 26
Juniper Mountain, 409
Juries, Mormon, 190
Kansas Pacific Railroad, 21
Kansas generally, 27
Kaolin, 63
"Kate," mule, 87, 112
Kaw, the, 32
Kerber's ranch, 100
Kimball, Heber C., 167-75
Kit Carson, 96-7, 114
" his services, 136
" personal appearance, 137
" adventures, 137
" Sherman on, 138
" Indians on, 138
" his opinion of Indians, 138-9
Kootenay, 252
Lawrence, 26
Landscapes, superb, 72, 84-6, 243, 446
Landscape, a tropical, 478
Laramie Plains, 148
Laclede, 152
Latrobe, 248
Lake Pond Oreille, 252
Laguna Grande, 342
Laguna, 347
Lady, an army, in Arizona, 413
La Paz, 414
Lake Tahoe, 439
Leavenworth, 25
Lead, etc., 63
Leutze's painting, 105
Leave Utah or drown, 184
Lewiston, 223
La Grande, 233
" mines near, 233
" river, 235
Leland, a, 465
Little Blue, 38
Live mining-town, 65
Lincoln on our mines, 70
Life in a stage-coach, 155-7
Lieut. Genl. Utah Militia, 173
Little Arkansas, 104
Liberals _vs._ Imperialists, 353
Libertad, 377
Live-oaks of California, 426, 441
Long's Peak, 75
Lost among Indians, 120-4
"Lo! the poor Indian", 55, 135
Lone Mountain Cemetery, 280, 295
Los Angelos Plains, 333, 423
" itself, 334-5
Lumber, costly, 49, 375, 407
Lynch, Judge, 59, 62, 226
Manhattanville, 32
Marysville, 34
Mantilini, Mr., 67
Machinery, mining, 67
Manitou, Col., 80
Mark Tapley's philosophy, 122
Massacre, Sand Creek., 139
Maladé, 215
Machado's, Ranch, Señor, 342
Maricopa Desert, 366
Mariposa Trail, 456
" Big Trees, 462
" itself, 464
Manzanillo, 469
McCormick, Gov., 362
McDowell Crossing, 383
Meals _en route_, 42
Medicine Man, a, 77
Mexican peons, 83
" baille, 91
" beds, 93
" emigrants, 86, 89, 353
" life and manners, 471
Mexican _vs._ Yankee, 106
Menace to U. States, 175
"Meacham's", 239
Mescal, 345
Mesquite, 365
Merced River, 452
Melno Park, 466
Missouri, 24
Missouri River, 25
Mining town, a live, 65
Mining, placer, 66
Mining "processes", 68
Mining Companies, bogus, 69
Mining as a business, 435
Mines, yield of, 70
Mines, our, total yield of 1873, 491
Miners' slang, 72
Miners returning East, 146
Mines at Baker City, 231
Mines of Colorado, 63-71
" Idaho, 226
" Oregon, 254
" California, 279, 427
" Arizona, 378, 399, 414
Mines of Nevada, 432-5
" U. S. generally, 490-1
Mills, stamp, 67
Mill City, 71
Miami Valley, 22
Micawber, Mr., 68
Micawber, a Boston, 250
Militia, Utah, 172-5
Mission Mills, 306
Milton's Hell, 411
Mirage, 346
Moral, a, 124
Mormon woman, 152
" tabernacle, 166
" preacher, 167
" a sharp, 168
" sermons, 169
" militia-muster, 172
" outrages, etc., 183
" murder of Dr. Robinson, 184-7
" Mountain Meadow Massacre, 191
" juries, etc., 190
" sobriety and thrift, 200
" Bishops, 201
" Brigham Young, 174-9
Mormonism in general, 199
Mormon Church, as immigration agency, 202
Mountain city, a, 64
Mountain scenery, effect of, 86
Mountain mud-wagons, 144
Mountain Fever, 170
Montgomery street, 285
" dames, 286
Montana emigrants, 398
Mojave River, 420
Mother, an ambitious, 438
Monument Creek, 79
Mountains, Alleghany, 58
" Rocky, 75, 113
" Wahsatch, 158
" Blue, 234, 244
" Cascade, 255
" Aztec, 392
" San Bernardino, 420
" Sierra Nevadas, 427, 437-8
Mt. Long's Peak, 75
" Pike's Peak, 75-79
" Hood, 256, 264-9
" St. Helen's, 270
" Shasta, 256
" San Bernardino, 344
" San Francisco, 391
Mule teams, 54
" Kate, 87
Munchausen, Baron, 57, 89
Mustang team, 157
Mysteries and miseries of stage-coaching, 156
Nasby people, 267
New England, 22
" village, 397
Newspapers again, 108, 424
New Mexico, etc., 140
New Granada, 472
New York, 476
Nevada, agriculture in, 431
" mines in, 433, 491
" alkali plains of, 436
_Nez Perce Chief_, 250
Nicaragua, 472
North Platte, 148
" Clear Creek, 66
"No makee bobbery", 303
Nurseries of the army, 418
Ocean, a Pacific, 323
Off for the Pacific, 144
" Los Angelos, 322
" Ft. Yuma, 339
" Yosemite, 444
Ogden City, 210
Ohio, 22
Old Chief, 63
Omaha, 40, 58
Ooray, 115, 125
" his speeches at treaty, 126-9
Ophir mine, 434
Ores, Colorado, 68
" Arizona, 399
" Nevada, 432
Oregonian, a live, 240
Oregon Steam Nav. Co., 251
" Indians, 252
" rains and fogs, 259
Oregonians generally, 268
_Orizaba_, the, 322
"Out West", 22
Outrage, a border, 351
Outrages, Mormon, 183
"Out of the Wilderness", 424
Outside on a coach, 44
"Outfit", 72
Overland route, 35
" stages, 41, 206
Owyhee, 224
" Rapids, 253
Ox-trains, 54, 238
"Pay-ore", 66
Pay-streak, 73
"Panned-out", 73
Pacific Railroad, Union, 40, 71, 80
" Central, 428, 430
" Northern, 252
" Texas, 396
Pass, Sangre del Christo, 84-6
" Poncho, 102
Parks, Rocky Mt., 95
Parley's Cañon, 161
Paymaster, a lucky, 227
Pasquol, old, 361
Painted Rocks, 367
Pai-Ute Hill, 417
Paradise Regained, 423
" for invalids, 491
Panama, 472
Peat, 49
Peons, Mexican, 83
Petroleum, 153
Personal appearance of Brigham Young, 178-9
Pennsylvania Dutchman, a, 39
Phosphorescent waves, 467-8
Pike's Peak, 75, 79
Pigeon English, 302
Pilot Knob, 348
Picacho, 373
Platte River, 36, 48
" Valley, 47, 49
Placer Mining, 65-66
Plains, the, 50, 52, 72, 111
" as stock-raising and dairy region, 51, 481
Placerville, 439
Poncho Pass, 102
" Creek, 103
Pocket-knives as weapons, 122
Polygamy, its workings, 192-3
" bad results generally, 203
" a barbarism, 204
" laws against, should be enforced, 204-5
Portland, 264-8
Powder River, 228
Powell, Prof., 357
Postle's ranch, 405
Pony, a plucky, 448
Porpoises, 467
Prospect Ridge, 28
"Prospecting", 66
Prairie schooners, 26, 34, 54
" chickens, 36, 53
" dogs, 37
Praying machines of Chinese, 314
"Processes," mining, 68
Process, a new, wanted, 68
Preacher, Mormon, 167
Pratt's River, 228
Price's Army, left wing of, 240, 267
Press of California, 288
Prescott Crossing, 383
" road, 385
" itself, 397
" her mining prospects, 399
" population, 400
Precious metals, our yield of for 1873, 491
Project, a California, 439
Punty, 445-8
Quartz mines, etc., 66
Quicksands of Arizona, 388
" execrable, 392
Ranchmen and their homes, 53
Ranches, 73
" in California, 293
Ranchman, a dismal, 421
Randall, Bishop, 59
Railroad, Union Pacific, 40, 71, 80
" Northern, 252
" Central, 428, 430
" Texas, 396
" across the Isthmus, 474
Rather exciting situation, 121
Rapids of the Columbia, 253
Rains and fogs, 259
Rains and winds of San Francisco, 281-2
Racing steam-ships, 322
Rattlesnakes, 417
Reception of Gen. Sherman, etc., 62
_Red Rupert_, 144
Regions, barren, 215, 345, 410
Representative Californians, 285
Religion in California, 287-9
Revivalist, a noted, 432
Ride by stage-coach, 44
Ride after antelope, 51
Ride by muleback, 84-7
" a rough, 220
" a fine horseback, 446
Rio Grande, 96-7
" bottoms, 96
Rio Colorado, 150, 356, 415
Rip Van Winkles, 279, 376
_Rising Star Steamer_, 475
River Terraces, 28
Rocky Mountains, 75, 143
" parks of, 95
Roads, mountain, 110, 439
Road-agents, 166
Robinson, Dr., murder of, 184-7
Romancing, 247
Rough stage-coaching, 437
Roses in California, 440
Rock Springs, 410
Russel's Ranch, 98
Ruby City, 224
Rule, the only safe among Indians, 394
Sacramento River, 425
" Valley, 426
" City, 440
Saratoga of Colorado, 71
Sangre del Christo, 84-6
Saddle animals, 87
San Luis Park, 96
Saw-mills, 110
Safe at last, 124
Sage-hens, 158
Salt Lake City, 164-6
" House, 164
" Theatre, 179
" audience generally, 182
" _Vidette_, 183
" Mormon outrages at, 183, 198
" what a U. S. Judge thinks of affairs there, 189-98
" itself, 209
(See Mormon.)
Sand Creek massacre, 139
Sand-storm, a Yuma, 358
San Francisco, 276
" her location, 277
" sand-hills, 278
" commerce, etc., 279
" climate, 281-2
" earthquakes, 283
" hotels, 283
" houses and gardens, 284
" fruits and flowers, 284
" churches, 287-8
" her Christmas and New Year, 292
" statistics, 279, 489
" Barbary Coast, 310
" Chinese, 301, 321
" sail on Bay of, 294
Santa Barbara, 324
" her climate, 490-91
San Diego, 325-9
" court-house and jail, 327
" climate, 328
" neighboring ranches, 329
" harbor, 329
San Pedro, 330
Santa Anna River, 340-1
Santa Cruz River, 372-5
San Xavier del Bac, 379
San Bernardino, 422
San Joaquin River, 444
San Mateo, 466
San Josè, 466
San Salvador, 472
Scare, an Indian, 146-7
Scott's Marmion, 159
Scout after Apaches, 404
Segrist, Mr., 39
Señors and Señoritas, 92
Sermons, Mormon, 169
Sea-sickness, 272
Sea-lions, 295-6
"Shanghai" fences, 36, 229
Sherman, Gen., 61, 114
" on Kit Carson, 138
" New Mexico, etc., 140-1
" personally, 142
"Shebang", 72
Sha-wa-she-wit, 125
Shauno, 125
Shingle Station, 439
Silvers, Rev. Mr., 39
Sibley tents, 55, 118
Silver-mining, 66, 432-5
Silver City, 224
Sierra Blanca, 98
" Nevadas, 427
" " summit of, 430
" " snows on, 428, 437
" " silence of, 460
" " sugar-pines of, 461
Skull Valley, 392
Smoky Hill River, 28, 50
Snowy Range, 63, 76, 105
Snow-squalls, 81, 89, 98
Snow-storm, in a, 162, 241
Snow galleries, 429
Snows on Sierra Nevadas, 428, 437
Snake River, 216
" bottoms, 217
" station, 217
" valley generally, 229
Socelito, 294
Soda Springs, Col., 80
Soda Lake, 419
Soldier, a true, 408
Something about smoking, 157
" " Vicksburg, 261-2
South Platte, 58, 65, 107
" Clear Creek, 71
" Park, 105
Spanish Peaks, 85
" attempts to speak, 342
Specimen settlers, 39, 406
"Square meal", 72
Squaws, Indian, 135
Stage-horses, 41
" stations, 41
" drivers, 42, 54
" staging it "outside", 44
" coaching generally, 155, 206
" good-bye, 248
" across the Sierra Nevadas, 428, 437
Stampedes, 147
Stamp Mills, 67
Statistics of Stock-raising on Plains, 481-7
Statistics of San Francisco, etc., 279, 489-90
" gold and silver product. 1873, 491
Stanislaus, 444
Steam navigation on the Columbia, 251
" " on the Colorado, 414-15
Steele, Gen., 261-3
Stockton, 442
" her windmills, etc., 442
Stormy Divide, 77
St. Louis, 23
St. Helen's, 270
Stump, Capt., 251
"S. T. 1860, X., etc.", 249
Sulphurets, 68, 399
Sulphur Springs, hot, 171, 209
Sunsets, 45
Sunset, a magnificent, 46
Superintendent of Mines, 67
Sugar-pines of California, 461
"Swinging round the circle", 227
Swiss artist, a, 43
"Swop" and "no swop", 131
"Talings", 68
Tabernacle, Mormon, 168
Tahoe, Lake, 439
Taylor, Bayard, 25
Teamsters, as a class, 237, 244
Telegraph Hill, 279
Tehauntepec, Gulf of, 472
Texan Emigrant, 349
Texas and Pacific Railroad, 396
Tip-top of Rocky Mountains, 85
Topeka, 26
Tobacco, some defence of, 157
Transportation, costly, 357, 377
Transition, a welcome, 423
Treaty with Ute Indians, 113, 136
Trophies, Indian, 143
Trout-fishing, 88
Trout-broiling, 88, 102
Trout streams, 97
Truckee River, 431
Tucson, 374
" her high prices, 375
" business, 376
" costly transportation, 377
Tucson's griefs, 378
" mines, 378
Tuolomne River, 444
Turkey, a fine wild, 407
Typical emigrant, 406
Umatilla River, 245-6
" City, 249
Uniontown, 233
Union Pass, 411
Union Pacific Railroad, 40
Ups and downs of Californians, 297-9
Up the Sierras, 428
Utah militia, 172-5
" autocrat of, 179
" Judge, opinion of, 189, 198
" U. S. Courts in, 193-6
" laws in, enforce, 205
(See Mormon.)
Ute Indians, 77, 212
" council, 114-16
" treaty, 116, 136
" princess, 117
" village, 118
" lost among, 120
" chiefs, 114-15, 125
" dance, 133
" generally, 134
" squaws, 135
Valley of the Platte, 48
" Boisè, 219
" Burnt, Powder, and Pratt's rivers, 228
" Snake, 229-30
" Grande Ronde, 232
" Umatilla, 247
" Weber, 161
" Salt Lake, 165
" Columbia, 252
" Gila, 364
" Salado, 395
" Colorado, 355, 411
" Sacramento, 426
" Yosemite, 447, 454
Vicksburg, something about, 261-2
Victoria, 266
View from Telegraph Hill, 280
Villacito, 344
Virginia Dale, 145
Virginia City, 432
Voyage from Portland to San Francisco, 273
" a delightful, 323
" up the Sacramento, 425
" home, 467
Vulture mine and mill, 391
Wagon-trains and teamsters, 54
Ward, Artemus, 180
Water-ditches, 82, 487
Walla Walla, 243, 251
Wallula, 249, 251
Wanted--a road, 385
" roads and bridges, 389
" a railroad, 396
Westerner, specimen of a, 55
Western exaggerations, 96-7
Wellington, young chief, 123-4
Weber Valley, 161
West, Bishop, 175, 211
Wells, Lt. General, 175
Wells Springs, 244
"Web-footed" children, 259
West Indies, 476
Whales, 467
Whirlwinds, 346
White Pine, 433
Whitney, Prof., 452, 456
Whittier's prophecy, 477
Wheat-fields of California, 426, 441
" yield of, 441
Wickenburg, 390
Wildcat Creek, 39
Wind-storm, a, 45
Willow Springs, 146
Wilful, John, 247
Willamette River, 266
Wilmington, etc., 331
Wilson, Don Benito, 336
" his noble ranch, 336
" orange groves, 337
" vineyards, 337
" his home, 338
Williamson's Valley, 409
Wind-mills, 278
" " in California, 285, 441
Winds and rains of San Francisco, 281-2
Wines, California, 338
Wood and lumber scarce, 49
Wolves or cayotes, 216
Yankee-land, 22
Yankee hand and brain, 71
Yank's Station, 437
Yerbo Buena, 279
Yellow-jacket mine, 434
"_You bet_", 73-74
Yosemite Valley, 443
" first view of, 447
" South Dome and walls, 450
" Bridal Veil and Yosemite Falls, 451
" El Capitan, 451
" by moonlight, 451
" North Dome, etc., 452
" Lake and South Fork, 452
" Cascades and Vernal Falls, 453
" rainbows in, 453
" Nevada Falls, 454
" Sentinel Peak, 454
" Mt. Broderick, 454
" Cathedral Rock, 454
" in winter, 455
" from Hutchings', 449
" from Inspiration Point, 457
Young chief Wellington, 123-4
Young, Brigham, 175-9
" wives of, 180
children of, 181
" shrewd dodge of, 187
" success of, 195
" Indian policy of, 212
" Brigadier General, 175
" Colonel, 175
" Joseph, 211
(See Mormon.)
Zan Hincklin's ranch, 83-4
Zig-zags, mountain, 437
" swinging the, 438
THE END.
Transcriber's Notes:
Obvious punctuation and spelling errors have been fixed throughout.
Inconsistent hyphenation is as in the original.
The Index is not in strict alphabetic order in the original. It has
been left in the same order as in the original.