HOW TO CHOOSE ANCHOVIES.--They are preserved in barrels, with
bay-salt; no other fish has the fine flavor of the anchovy. The best
look red and mellow, and the bones moist and oily; the flesh should be
high flavored, the liquor reddish, and have a fine smell.
BAKED BLACK BASS.--Eight good-sized onions chopped fine; half that
quantity of bread crumbs; butter size of hen's egg; plenty of pepper
and salt; mix thoroughly with anchovy sauce until quite red. Stuff
your fish with this compound and pour the rest over it, previously
sprinkling it with a little red pepper. Shad, pickerel and trout are
good the same way. Tomatoes can be used instead of anchovies, and are
more economical. If using them, take pork in place of butter, and chop
fine.
BOILED WHITE FISH.--Lay the fish open; put it in a dripping pan
with the back down; nearly cover with water; to one fish put two
tablespoons salt, cover tightly and simmer (not boil) one-half hour;
dress with gravy, butter and pepper; garnish with sliced eggs.
For sauce use a piece of butter the size of an egg, one tablespoon of
flour, one half pint boiling water; boil a few minutes, and add three
hard boiled eggs, sliced.
FRESH BROILED WHITE FISH.--Wash and drain the fish: sprinkle with
pepper and lay with the inside down upon the gridiron, and broil over
fresh bright coals. When a nice brown, turn for a moment on the other
side, then take up and spread with butter. This is a very nice way of
broiling all kinds of fish, fresh or salted. A little smoke under the
fish adds to its flavor. This may be made by putting two or three cobs
under the gridiron.
TO BOIL CODFISH.--If boiled fresh, it is watery; but it is excellent
if salted, and hung for a day, to give it firmness. Wash and clean
the fish well, and rub salt inside of it; tie it up, and put it on the
fire in cold water; throw a handful of salt into the fish-kettle. Boil
a small fish 15 minutes; a large one 30 minutes. Serve it without the
smallest speck and scum; drain. Garnish it with lemon, horseradish,
the milt, roe, and liver. Oyster or shrimp sauce may be used.
CHOWDER.--Five pounds of codfish cut in squares; fry plenty of salt pork
cut in thin slices; put a layer of pork in your kettle, then one of
fish; one of potatoes in thick slices, and one of onions in slices;
plenty of pepper and salt; repeat as long as your materials last, and
finish with a layer of Boston crackers or crusts of bread. Water
sufficient to cook with, or milk if you prefer. Cook one-half hour and
turn over on your platter, disturbing as little as possible. Clams and
eels the same way.
CLAM FRITTERS.--Twelve clams chopped or not, one pint milk, three
eggs, add liquor from clams; salt and pepper, and flour enough for
thin batter. Fry in hot lard. CLAM STEW.--Lay the clams on a gridiron
over hot coals, taking them out of the shell as soon as open, saving
the juice; add a little hot water, pepper, a very little salt and
butter rolled in flour sufficient for seasoning; cook for five minutes
and pour over toast.
EELS, TO STEW.--Of the above fish, that of the "silver" kind is
preferable to its congener, and, therefore, ought to be procured for
all cuisine purposes. Take from three to four pounds of these eels,
and let the same be thoroughly cleansed, inside and out, rescinding
the heads and tails from the bodies. Cut them into pieces three inches
in length each, and lay them down in a stew pan, covering them with
a sufficiency of sweet mutton gravy to keep them seething over a slow
fire, when introduced into the pan, for twenty minutes. Add to the
liquor, before you place your eels into it, a quarter of an ounce of
whole black pepper, quarter of an ounce of allspice, with one or two
pieces of white ginger. Thicken with a light admixture of flour and
butter, stirring it carefully round, adding thereto, at the same
time, one gill of good port wine, and half a gill of sweet ketchup.
Lemon-peel and salt may be added in accordance with your taste.
HOW TO KEEP FISH SOUND.--To prevent meat, fish, etc., going bad, put a
few pieces of charcoal into the sauce-pan wherein the fish or flesh is
to be boiled.
HOW TO RENDER BOILED FISH FIRM.--Add a little saltpetre to the salt in
the water in which the fish is to be boiled; a quarter of an ounce to
one gallon.
FISH BALLS.--Bone, cooked fresh, or salt fish, add double the quantity
of mashed potatoes, one beaten egg, a little butter, pepper and salt
to taste. Make in cakes or balls; dredge with flour and fry in hot
lard.
POTTED FISH.--Take out the back-bone of the fish; for one weighing two
pounds take a tablespoon of allspice and cloves mixed; these spices
should be put into bags of not too thick muslin; put sufficient salt
directly upon each fish; then roll in cloth, over which sprinkle a
little cayenne pepper; put alternate layers of fish, spice and sago
in an earthen jar; cover with the best cider vinegar; cover the jar
closely with a plate and over this put a covering of dough, rolled
out to twice the thickness of pie crust. Make the edges of paste, to
adhere closely to the sides of the jar, so as to make it air-tight.
Put the jar into a pot of cold water and let it boil from three to
five hours, according to quantity. Ready when cold.
HOW TO BROIL OR ROAST FRESH HERRINGS.--Scale, gut and wash; cut off
the heads; steep them in salt and vinegar ten minutes; dust them with
flour, and broil them over or before the fire, or in the oven. Serve
with melted butter and parsley.
Herrings are nice _jarred_, and done in the oven, with pepper, cloves,
salt, a little vinegar, a few bay-leaves, and a little butter.
HOW TO FRY FRESH HERRINGS.--Slice small onions, and lay in the pan
with the herrings; add a little butter, and fry them. Perhaps it is
better to fry the onions separately with a little parsley, and butter
or drip.
HOW TO POT HERRINGS.--Clean, cut off the heads, and lay them close
in an earthen pot. Strew a little salt between every layer; put in
cloves, mace, whole pepper, cayenne and nutmeg; fill up the jar with
vinegar, water, and a quarter of a pint of sherry, cover, tie down;
bake in an oven, and when cold pot it for use. A few anchovies and bay
leaves intermixed will improve the flavor much.
BUTTERED LOBSTERS.--Pick the meat out, cut it, and warm with a little
brown gravy, nutmeg, salt, pepper and butter, with a little flour. If
done white, a little white gravy and cream.
CURRY OF LOBSTER.--Take them from the shells, and lay into a pan, with
a small piece of mace, three or four spoonfuls of veal gravy, and
four of cream; rub smooth one or two teaspoonfuls of curry-powder, a
teaspoonful of flour, and an ounce of butter, simmer an hour; squeeze
half a lemon in, and add salt.
LOBSTER CHOWDER.--Four or five pounds of lobster, chopped fine; take
the green part and add to it four pounded crackers; stir this into
one quart of boiling milk; then add the lobster, a piece of butter
one-half the size of an egg, a little pepper and salt, and bring it to
a boil.
HOW TO BOIL MACKEREL.--Rub them with vinegar; when the water boils,
put them in with a little salt, and boil gently 15 minutes. Serve
with fennel and parsley chopped, boil, and put into melted butter, and
gooseberry sauce.
SALT MACKEREL.--Soak the fish for a few hours in lukewarm water,
changing the water several times; then put into cold water loosely
tied in cloths, and let the fish come to a boil, turning off the water
once, and pouring over the fish hot water from the tea-kettle; let
this just come to a boil, then take them out and drain them, lay them
on a platter, butter and pepper them, and place them for a few moments
in the oven. Serve with sliced lemons, or with any fish sauce.
HOW TO FRY OYSTERS.--Use the largest and best oysters; lay them in
rows upon a clean cloth and press another upon them, to absorb the
moisture; have ready several beaten eggs; and in another dish some
finely crushed crackers: in the frying pan heat enough butter to
entirely cover the oysters; dip the oysters first into the eggs, then
into the crackers, rolling it or them over, that they may become well
incrusted; drop into the frying pan and fry quickly to a light brown.
Serve dry and let the dish be warm. A chafing dish is best.
OYSTER PATTIES.--Make some rich puff paste and bake it in very small
tin patty pans; when cool, turn them out upon a large dish; stew some
large fresh oysters with a few cloves, and a little mace and nutmeg;
then add the yolk of one egg, boiled hard and grated; add a little
butter, and as much of the oyster liquor as will cover them. When
they have stewed a little while, take them off the pan and set them to
cool. When quite cold, lay two or three oysters in each shell of puff
paste.
OYSTERS, STEWED.--In all cases, unless shell oysters, wash and drain;
mix half a cup of butter and a tablespoon of corn starch; put with the
oysters in a porcelain kettle; stir until they boil; add two cups of
cream or milk; salt to taste; do not use the liquor of the oysters in
either stewing or escaloping.
OYSTERS STEWED.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, then take them
out, beard them, and strain the liquor carefully from the grit. Put into
a stewpan an ounce of butter, with sufficient flour dredged in to dry it
up; add the oyster liquor, and a blade of pounded mace, a little
cayenne, and a very little salt to taste; stir it well over a brisk fire
with a wooden spoon, and when it comes to the boil, throw in your
oysters, say a dozen and a half or a score, and a good tablespoonful of
cream, or more, if you have it at hand. Shake the pan over the fire, and
let it simmer for one or two minutes, but not any longer, and do not let
it boil, or the fish will harden. Serve in a hot dish, garnished with
sippets of toasted bread. Some persons think that the flavor is improved
by boiling a small piece of lemon-peel with the oyster liquor, taking it
out, however, before the cream is added.
OYSTERS SCOLLOPED.--Beard and trim your oysters, and strain the
liquor. Melt in a stewpan, with a dredging of flour sufficient to dry
it up, an ounce of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of white stock, and
the same of cream; the strained liquor and pepper, and salt to taste.
Put in the oysters and gradually heat them through, but be sure not to
let them boil. Have your scallop-shells buttered, lay in the oysters,
and as much liquid as they will hold; cover them well over with
bread-crumbs, over which spread, or drop, some tiny bits of butter.
Brown them in the oven, or before the fire, and serve while very hot.
OYSTERS, TO PICKLE.--Take two hundred of the plumpest, nicest oysters
to be had, open them, saving the liquor, remove the beards, put
them, with the liquor, into a stewpan, and let them simmer for twenty
minutes over a very gentle fire, taking care to skim them well. Take
the stewpan off the fire, take out the oysters, and strain the liquor
through a fine cloth, returning the oysters to the stewpan. Add to
a pint of the hot liquor half an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of
cloves; give it a boil, and put it in with the oysters, stirring the
spice well in amongst them. Then put in about a spoonful of salt,
three-quarters of a pint of white-wine vinegar, and one ounce of whole
pepper, and let the oysters stand until they are quite cold. They will
be ready for use in about twelve or twenty-four hours; if to be kept
longer they should be put in wide-mouthed bottles, or stone jars, and
well drawn down with bladder. It is very important that they should be
quite cold before they are put into the bottles, or jars.
SALMON, TO BOIL.--Clean it carefully, boil it gently with salt and a
little horse radish; take it out of the water as soon as done. Let
the water be warm if the fish be split. If underdone it is very
unwholesome. Serve with shrimp, lobster, or anchovy sauce, and fennel
and butter.
SALMON, TO MARINATE.--Cut the salmon in slices; take off the skin and
take out the middle bone; cut each slice asunder; put into a saucepan
and season with salt, pepper, 6 cloves, a sliced onion, some whole
chives, a little sweet basil, parsley, and a bay leaf; then squeeze in
the juice of three lemons, or use vinegar. Let the salmon lie in the
marinate for two hours; take it out; dry with a cloth; dredge with
flour, and fry brown in clarified butter; then lay a clean napkin in a
dish; lay the slices upon it; garnish with fried parsley.
SALT COD, TO DRESS.--Soak the cod all night in 2 parts water, and one
part vinegar. Boil; and break into flakes on the dish; pour over it
boiled parsnips, beaten in a mortar, and then boil up with cream, and
a large piece of butter rolled in a bit of flour. It may be served
with egg-sauce instead of parsnip, or boiled and served without
flaking with the usual sauce.
All _Salt Fish_ may be done in a similar way. Pour egg-sauce over it,
or parsnips, boiled and beaten fine with butter and cream.
HOW TO BOIL STURGEON--Water, 2 quarts; vinegar, 1 pint; a stick of
horseradish; a little lemon-peel, salt, pepper, a bay leaf. In this
boil the fish; when the fish is ready to leave the bones, take it up;
melt 1/2 lb. of butter; add an anchovy, some mace, a few shrimps, good
mushroom ketchup, and lemon juice; when it boils, put in the dish;
serve with the sauce; garnish with fried oysters, horseradish and
lemon.
HOW TO BROIL STURGEON.--Cut slices, rub beaten eggs over them, and
sprinkle them with crumbs of bread, parsley, pepper and salt; wrap
them in white paper, and broil gently. Use for sauce, butter, anchovy
and soy.
HOW TO DRESS FRESH STURGEON.--Cut slices, rub egg over them, then
sprinkle with crumbs of bread, parsley, pepper, salt; fold them in
paper, and broil gently. Sauce; butter, anchovy and soy.
HOW TO ROAST STURGEON.--Put a piece of butter, rolled in flour, into
a stewpan with four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, two onions, some
pepper and salt, half a pint of water and a glass of vinegar. Set it
over the fire till hot; then let it become lukewarm, and steep the
fish in it an hour or two. Butter a paper well, tie it round, and
roast it without letting the spit run through. Serve with sorrel and
anchovy sauce.
TROUT, A-LA-GENEVOISE--Clean the fish well; put it into the stewpan,
adding half champagne and half sherry wine. Season it with pepper,
salt, an onion, a few cloves stuck in it, and a small bunch of parsley
and thyme; put in it a crust of French bread; set it on a quick fire.
When done take the bread out, bruise it and thicken the sauce: add
flour and a little butter, and boil it up. Lay the fish on the dish,
and pour the sauce over it. Serve it with sliced lemon and fried
bread.
HOW TO BROIL TROUT--Wash, dry, tie it, to cause it to keep its shape;
melt butter, add salt, and cover the trout with it. Broil it gradually
in a Dutch oven, or in a common oven. Cut an anchovy small, and chop
some capers. Melt some butter with a little flour, pepper, salt,
nutmeg, and half a spoonful of vinegar. Pour it over the trout and
serve it hot.
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