As to sleeves. Measure from the shoulder to the elbow and again from
elbow to the wrist. Lay these measurements on any sleeve patterns you
may have, and lengthen and shorten accordingly. The sleeve is cut in
two pieces, the top of the arm and the under part, which is about an
inch narrower than the outside. In joining the two together, if the
sleeve is at all tight, the upper part is slightly fulled to the lower
at the elbow. The sleeve is sewn to the armhole with no cordings now,
and the front seam should be about two inches in front of the bodice.
Bodices are now worn very tight-fitting, and the French stretch the
material well on the cross before beginning to cut out, and in cutting
allow the lining to be slightly pulled, so that when on, the outside
stretches to it and insures a better fit. An experienced eye can tell
a French-cut bodice at once, the front side pieces being always on the
cross. In dress cutting and fitting, as in everything else, there
are failures and discouragements, but practice overrules these little
matters, and "trying again" brings a sure reward in success.
A sensible suggestion is made in regard to the finish in necks of
dresses for morning wear. Plain colors have rather a stiff appearance,
tulle or crepe lisse frilling are expensive and frail, so it is a good
idea to purchase a few yards of really good washing lace, about an
inch and a half in depth; quill or plait and cut into suitable lengths
to tack around the necks of dresses. This can be easily removed
and cleaned when soiled. A piece of soft black Spanish lace, folded
loosely around the throat close to the frillings, but below it, looks
very pretty; or you may get three yards of scarf lace, trim the ends
with frillings, place it around the neck, leaving nearly all the
length in the right hand, the end lying upon the left shoulder being
about half a yard long. Wind the larger piece twice around the throat,
in loose, soft folds, and festoon the other yard and a half, and
fasten with brooch or flower at the side.--_Philadelphia Times._