THE STAG HUNT.
We had sat for some time talking over Doughby's mishaps, when we were
interrupted by a noise upon deck. Hurras and hellos were resounding
off on every side and corner of the steamer. We hurried out to see
what was the matter, and found the cause of the tumult to be a fallow
deer, that had taken the water some two hundred yards from our
steamer, and was swimming steadily across from the right to the left
bank of the river. The yawl had already been lowered, and was pushing
off from the side with five men in it, amongst whom Doughby of course
took the lead.
"There he is again," cited Richards. "Of a certainty the man is
possessed by a devil."
"Hurra, boys! Give way!" shouted Doughby, flourishing a rifle full six
feet in length. The four oars clipped into the water, and the boat
flew to the encounter of the deer, who was tranquilly pursuing his
liquid path.
We were about entering one of those picturesque _spreads_, or bays of
the Red River, which perhaps no other stream can boast of in such
abundance, and on so magnificent a scale. The lofty trees and huge
masses of foliage of the dense forest that covered the left bank, bent
forward over the water, the dark green of the cypresses, and the
silver white of the gigantic cotton-trees, casting a bronze-tinted
shadow upon the dusky red stream, which at that point is full fifteen
hundred feet broad; the right bank offering a succession of the most
luxuriant palmetto grounds, with here and there a bean or tulip tree,
amongst the branches of which innumerable parroquets were chattering
and bickering. A pleasant breeze swept across from the palmetto
fields, scarcely sufficient, however, to ruffle the water, which
flowed tranquilly along, undisturbed save by the paddle of our
steamer, that caused the huge black logs and tree-trunks floating upon
the surface, to knock against each other, and heave up their
extremities like so many porpoises. The steamer had just entered the
bay when a boat shot out from under the wood on the left bank, and
greatly increased the romantic character of the scene.
It was a long Indian canoe made out of the hollowed trunk of a cotton
tree; a many-tined antler was stuck in the prow, and dried legs and
haunches of venison lay in the fore part of the boat; towards the
stern sat a young girl, partially enveloped in a striped blanket, but
naked from the waist upwards, impelling the boat in the direction of
the deer by long graceful sweeps of her oar; in front of her was a
squaw of maturer age, performing a like labour. In the centre of the
canoe were two children, queer guinea-pig-looking little devils, and
near these lay a man in all the lazy apathy of a redskin on his return
from on the hunting ground; but towards the stern stood a splendid
Antinous-like young savage, leaning in an attitude of graceful
negligence on his rifle, and evidently waiting an opportunity to get a
blow or a shot at the stag. As soon as these children of the forest
caught sight of the steamer and of Doughby's boat, they ceased
rowing, only recommencing when encouraged by some loud hurras, and
even then visibly taking care to keep as far as possible from the
fire-ship. It was a picturesque and interesting sight to observe the
two boats describing a sort of circle on the broad ruddy stream, while
the steamer rounding to, formed in a manner the base of the operation,
and cut off the stag's retreat. Presently a shot fired without effect
from Doughby's boat, drove the beast over towards the canoe. The long
slender bark darted across the animal's track with the swiftness of an
arrow, and as it did so, the Indian who was standing up dealt the stag
a blow that caused it to reel and spin round in the water, and change
its course for the second time. When I again glanced at the canoe, the
young Indian had disappeared.
"Here he comes" shouted Doughby, pointing to the deer, which was now
swimming towards his boat. "Give way, boys! the Indians must learn of
a Kentucky man how to strike a stag. Give way, I say!"
The noble beast had recovered from the severe blow it had received,
and had now approached the steamer towards which it cast such a
supplicating tearful look, that the hearts of the ladies were touched
with compassion.
"Mr Doughby," cried half a score feminine voices, "spare the poor
beast! Pray, pray let it go!"
"Spare a stag, ladies! Where did you ever hear of such a thing? Hurra,
boys!" shouted he, as the boat came up with the deer, and clubbing his
rifle, he delivered a blow with the but-end that split the stock in
two, and threw the stunned animal upon the gunwale of the boat. Quick
as thought, Doughty clutched the antlers with one hand, while with the
other he reached for the knife which one of his companions held out to
him. At that moment the deer threw itself on one side with a
convulsive movement, the boat rocked, Doughby lost his balance, the
stag, which was now recovering its strength, drew itself violently
back, and in an instant the Kentuckian was floundering in the water,
struggling with the deer, to whose horns he held on with the gripe of
a tiger.
"Hallo, Mister Doughby in the Red River!"
The whole ship was now in an uproar, the ladies screaming, the men
shouting directions and advice to those in the boat. We began to be
somewhat anxious as to the result; for although these water hunts are
by no means uncommon occurrences, they are often dangerous and
sometimes fatal to the hunter. The deer had been severely stunned and
hurt, but not killed, by the blow it had received, and it now strove
fiercely against its powerful opponent, throwing him from side to side
by violent tossess of its head. Doughby still held on like grim death,
but his eyes began to roll and stare wildly, his strength was
evidently diminishing, and he had each moment more difficulty in
partially controlling the stag's movements, and preventing the furious
beast from running its antlers into his body. It was in vain that the
four men in the boat endeavoured to render assistance. Man and beast
were rolling and twisting about in the river like two water snakes.
The scene that had at first been interesting had now become painful to
behold.
"Fire, Parker! Fire, Rolby!" shouted several voices from the steamer
to the men in the boat.
"Knock the cussed redskin on the head!" was the unintelligible
rejoinder of one of the latter.
The stag had now got Doughby close to a tree-trunk, against which it
was making violent efforts to crush him. His life was in imminent
peril, and a universal cry of horror and alarm burst from the
spectators. Just then the head of the deer fell on its breast, the
eyes glazing and the legs flinging out convulsively in the agony of
death; at the same time, however, Doughby began to sink, and a bright
streak of blood that rose to the surface of the water, and spread in a
circle round the combatants, gave reason to fear that the mad
Kentuckian had received some deadly hurt. At last the men in the boat
succeeded in getting hold of Doughby and the stag, the former being
seized by the hair of the head, while his hands still clung to the
deer's antlers with the desperate grasp of a drowning man. A shout of
triumph echoed from one end of the steam-boat to the other, and we
all felt a sensation of relief proportionate to the painful state of
suspense in which we had been kept.
Doughby sat for a short space doubled up in the bottom of the boat,
gazing straight before him with a fixed unconscious sort of look. The
grating of the boat against the side of the steamer seemed to rouse
him from his apathy, and he slowly ascended the ladder.
"For heaven's sake, Doughby," cried Richards, as the Kentuckian set
his foot upon deck, "what demon is it that possesses you, and drives
you to risk your neck at every turn?"
"The devil take you," retorted Doughby, "and your Red River water to
boot! Brr, brr! d----d bad water your Red River water, say I! No, no,
talk to me of Mississippi water.[5] If I am to be drowned, it sha'n't
be in the stinking Red River. I've a taste in my mouth as if I had
swallowed saltpetre and sulphur, with a dash of prussic acid. But tell
me," cried he to the passengers and sailors by whom he was surrounded,
"who gave him his settler? The deer, I mean. Who finished him?"
"Who?" repeated every body, "why, who but yourself, Mister Doughby?"
"I!" replied Doughby, shaking his head, "I had something else to do
besides knifing the stag. No, no, I had plenty to think of to keep
away from the tree-trunk. Besides, I let the knife fall at the very
moment the beast dragged me out of the boat. But see there, boys!"
added he, pointing to the deer, which was at this moment hoisted upon
deck.
The animal had a deep knife wound in the belly, and the tendons of the
hind legs were cut right across.
"That's the Indian's handiwork," said Doughby.
"What Indian?" cried we all.
"The Indian whom Rolby was going to knock on the head."
"I thought he wanted to chouse us out of the deer," said Rolby; "I saw
his bacon-face appear for a minute from behind the tree-trunk, and at
first I took it for a log, but I soon saw it was a redskin. It
wouldn't have been a great harm if I had sent a bit of lead through
him. What business has an Injun to meddle, when gentlemen"----
"No great harm!" interrupted Doughby impatiently. "The Indian, I can
tell you----d'ye hear? Ralph Doughby tells you----has more real blood
in his little finger than ten such leather-chopped fellows as yourself
in their whole bodies, making all allowance for your white hide and
your citizenship, neither of which, by the way, are much better than
they should be. Ten times more, I tell you, and, if you don't believe
it, I'll let you know it. A fine fellow he is, that redskin. He saw
that I was at a pinch, and he came to help me when none of my own
friends were able. And now, see yonder, there he stands in his canoe
again, just as if he had done nothing but the most natural thing in
the world. Chouse us out of the deer, say ye; and who had a right to
hinder him if he had? The beast was bred in his woods as well as ours;
a fair field and no favour is our motto in old Kentuck. I tell you the
Indian is a brave redskin, and the stag is his; but I'll buy it of
him. Hallo, captain! a dozen bottles of rum into the boat! Howard,
Richards, let me have half a dozen dollars, silver dollars, d'ye hear?
I'll pay the Indian a visit on board his canoe, and thank him as he
ought to be thanked."
No sooner said than done. The captain, however unwilling to lose any
more time, could not resist the impetuosity of the good-natured
scatterbrain, who sprang, dripping wet as he was, into the boat, a
bottle in each hand, and a friendly hurra upon his lips. The Indians
at first seemed alarmed and doubtful as to his intentions; but the
signs and words of peace and encouragement that were given, and
shouted to them from all sides, and above all, the sight of the
bottles, soon removed their fears. In another minute or two we saw
Doughby in their canoe, shaking hands with them, and putting one of
the bottles to his mouth. A little more, and I believe they would all,
men, women, and children, have begun the war-dance in the canoe, so
delighted were they with the magnificent present of the rum and
dollars. As it was, they shook and mauled Doughby till he was fain to
jump back into his boat, and escape as well as he could from their
wild caresses and demonstrative gratitude.
But we have been nearly twelve hours on the water, and the Alexandria
is a noted fast steamer. Our course has lain for some time between
banks covered with gigantic forests of live oak, cotton, bean, and
cypress trees, with here and there a palmetto field, and on the north
shore an occasional plantation, for the most part a mere log-hut, with
a strip of tobacco, cotton, or Indian corn. We have seen numerous
deer, who, on the appearance of our steamer, gallop back into the
woods--swans, cranes, geese, and ducks, wild pigeons, turkeys, and
alligators, are there by thousands. We now enter a broad part of the
river, and are gliding along in front of a wide clearing, some half
mile long, and surrounded by colossal evergreen oaks; a snug-looking
house of greenish-white colour stands in the middle of the plantation,
with orange gardens--that are to be--laid out and enclosed in front of
it; one enormous live oak, that looks as if it had stood there since
the flood, spreading its knotty limbs over the eastern side of the
habitation. The windows on the balconies are open, the Venetian blinds
drawn up, the sinking sun throws its mellow rays over the whole
peaceful and pleasant scene. And see there! We are expected: a small
variegated ball flies up to the top of the lightning conductor, and
the banner of our Union flutters out, displaying its thirteen stripes
and twenty-four stars, and the white American eagle, the thunder of
Jupiter and the symbols of peace in his talons. At the same moment,
Plato and Tully, two of my negroes, come rushing like demented
creatures out of the house, one with a stick in his hand, the other
bearing a pan of hot coals. They are closely pursued by Bangor, who
seems disposed to dispute Tully's title to the embers. In the struggle
the coals fly in every direction; of a surety, the dingy rascals will
burn my house before my eyes. Now comes Philip, a fourth negro, and
tries to snatch the stick from Plato's hand; but the latter is on his
guard, and fetches his adversary a wipe over the pate, that snaps the
stick--a tolerably thick one, by the way--in two. Both retreat a short
distance, and lowering their heads like a couple of angry steers, run
full tilt against each other, with force that would fracture any
skulls except African ones. Once, twice, three times--at the third
encounter, Plato the sage bites the dust before the hero of Macedon.
Confound the fellows! My companions are laughing fit to split
themselves, but I see nothing to laugh at. I shall have them in
hospital for the next ten days. Tully, however, has picked up the pan
and the embers, and is rushing towards a flag-staff near the shore,
from which the Louisianian flag is waving. I see now what they are all
at. They have brought down the Wasp and the Scorpion from on Menou's
plantation, two four-pounders so named, which were taken last year on
board a Porto Rico pirate, and which my father-in-law bought.
Boum--boum--and at the sound the whole black population of the
plantation comes flocking to the shore, capering and jumping like so
many opera-dancers, only not quite so gracefully, and shouting
out--"Massa come; hurra, massa come! Massa maum bring; hurra, massa!"
and manifesting a joy that is probably rendered more lively by the
hopes of an extra ration of rum and salt-fish. And now Monsieur Menou
and his son hurry down to receive us; the steamer stops, the plank is
thrown across, and amidst shaking of hands, and farewells, and good
wishes, our party hurries on shore. Thank heaven! we are home, and
settled at last.
BORODINO.--AN ODE.
STROPHE.
Weep for the _living_! mourn no more
Thy children slain on Moskwa's shore,
Cut off from evil! want, and anguish,
And care, for ever brooding and in vain;
No more to be beguiled! no more to languish
Under the yoke of labour and of pain!
Their doom of future joy or woe
For good or evil done below,
The Judge of all the earth will order rightly!
Flee winding error through the flowery way,
To daily follow truth! to ponder nightly
On time, and death, and judgment, nearer day by day!
Bewail thy bane, deluded France,
Vain-glory, overweening pride,
And harrying earth with eagle glance,
Ambition, frantic homicide!
Lament, of all that armed throng
How few may reach their native land!
By war and tempest to be borne along,
To strew, like leaves, the Scythian strand?
Before Jehovah who can stand?
His path in evil hour the dragon cross'd!
He casteth forth his ice! at his command
The deep is frozen!--all is lost!
For who, great God, is able to abide thy frost?
EPODE.
Elate of heart, and wild of eye,
Crested horror hurtles by;
Myriads, hurrying north and east,
Gather round the funeral feast!
From lands remote, beyond the Rhine,
Running o'er with oil and wine,
Wide-waving over hill and plain,
Herbage green, and yellow grain;
From Touraine's smooth irriguous strand,
Garden of a fruitful land,
To thy dominion, haughty Rhone,
Leaping from thy craggy throne;
From Alp and Apennine to where
Gleam the Pyrenees in air;
From pastoral vales and piny woods,
Rocks and lakes and mountain-floods,
The warriors come, in armed might
Careering, careless of the right!
Their leader he who sternly bade
Freedom fall; and glory fade,
The scourge of nations ripe for ruin,
Planning oft their own undoing!
But who in yonder swarming host
Locust-like from coast to coast,
Reluctant move, an alien few,
Sullen, fierce, of sombre hue,
Who, forced unhallow'd arms to bear,
Mutter to the moaning air,
Whose curses on the welkin cast
Edge the keen and icy blast!
Iberia, sorrow bade thee nurse
Those who now the tyrant curse,
Whose wrongs for vengeance cry aloud!
Lo, the coming of a cloud!
To burst in wrath, and sweep away
Light as chaff the firm array!
To rack with pain, or lull to rest
Both oppressor and oppress'd.
ANTISTROPHE.
Is it the wind from tower to tower
Low-murmuring at midnight hour?
Athwart the darkness light is stealing,
Portentous, red with unrelenting ire,
Inhuman deeds, and secrets dark revealing!
Ye guilty, who may quench the kindled fire!
Fall, city of the Czars, to rise
Ennobled by self-sacrifice,
Than tower and temple higher and more holy!
The wilful king appointed o'er mankind
To plague the lofty heart, and prove the lowly,
Is fled!--Avenger, mount the chariot of the wind!
Be thine, to guide the rapid scythe,
To blind with snow the frozen sun,
Against th' invader doomed to writhe,
To rouse the Tartar, Russ, and Hun!
Bid terror to the battle ride!
Indignant honour, burning shame,
Revenge, and hate, and patriotic pride!
But not the quick unerring aim
Of volley'd thunder winged with flame,
Nor famine keener than the bird of prey,
Nor death--avail the hard of heart to tame!
Blow wind, and pierce the dire array,
Flung, drifted by thy breath, athwart the frozen way!
EPODE.
Before the blast as flakes of snow
Drive blindly, reeling to and fro,
Or down the river black and deep
Melt--so the mighty sink to sleep!
Like Asshur, never more to boast!
Or Pharaoh, sunk with all his host!
So perish who would trample down
The rights of freedom, for renown!
So fall, who born and nurtured free
Adore the proud on bended knee!
Roll, Beresina, 'neath the bridge
Of death! rise Belgium's fatal ridge!
Rise, lonely rock in a wide ocean,
To curb each haughty mad emotion!
To prove, while force and genius fail,
That truth is great, and will prevail!
The hour is coming--seize the hour!
Divide the spoil, the prey devour!
Howl o'er the dead and dying, cry
All ye that raven earth and sky!
With beak and talon rend the prey,
Track carnage on her gory way,
To chide o'er many a gleamy bone
The moon, or with the wind to moan!
Benumb'd with cold, by torture wrung,
To winter leave the famine-clung,
O thou for whom they toil and bleed,
Deserted in their utmost need!
Hear, hear them faithful unto death
Invoke thee with the fleeting breath,
And feel (for human still thou art)
Ruth touch that adamantine heart!
Survive the storm and battle-shock,
To linger on th' Atlantic rock!
From ghastly dream, from death-like trance
Awake to woe, devoted France!
To care and trouble, toil and pain,
Till glory be acknowledged vain,
And martial pomp a mere parade,
And war, the bravo's bloody trade!
A beacon o'er the tide of time
Be thou, to point the wreck of crime!
The spoiler spoil'd, from empire hurl'd,
The dread and pity of the world!
O then, by tribulation tried,
Abjuring envy, hate, and pride,
Warn'd of the dying hour foretold
Of earth and heaven together roll'd,
Revering each prophetic sign
Of judgment and of love divine,
Bow down, and hide thee in the dust,
And own the retribution just;
So may contrition, prayer, and praise,
Preserve thee in the latter days!
E. PEEL.
A RAMBLE IN MONTENEGRO.
Few nations of Europe have been less known than the Montenegrians, and
the name even of their country is seldom found on maps.[6] Surrounded
by great empires, they have always preserved the independence of their
rugged mountains, and have even succeeded in wresting several rich
plains from the sway of Turkey. With this power hostilities seldom
cease; but such is the system with which her resources are managed,
that while the Montenegrians are at peace with one pasha, they are
enabled to concentrate their force against another--and all the while
the Sublime Porte does not condescend to interfere. Not many years
ago, they possessed the reputation of being a horde of robbers; and,
in all probability, the pilgrim who ventured among them would have
returned, if at all, as shirtless as themselves. But the breath of the
spirit of the age, though faintly wafted to their mountains, has
softened something of their character, without destroying in the least
their independence or nationality. Bold, hardy, and free, ready and
eager for the foray and the fray, a stranger is now as safe among them
as in any part of her Majesty's kingdom.
Whoever wishes to make the acquaintance of this primitive people, will
do well to embark on board the Austrian Lloyd's Company's steamer from
Trieste to Cattaro. They will be well accommodated, at reasonable
charges, and have an opportunity of seeing the principal towns of
Dalmatia, a country little frequented by travellers. Such was the case
with ourselves, (an English lady and gentleman,) who quitted Trieste
on the 5th of November 1843. The voyage commenced pleasantly, and we
had the good-luck to have the ladies' cabin to ourselves. The captain
was a very gentlemanlike person, the steward attentive, and the
passengers full of politeness. Zara, the capital of Dalmatia, where we
stopped a day and a night, is a walled town of moderate extent, said
to contain 8000 inhabitants. It possesses some antiquities. Over the
gates of this, and all other of the Dalmatian seaports, the Lions of
Saint Mark yet remain. It is best known for the excellence of its
_rosoglio_. The next town we arrived at was Sebenico, now much
decayed, and Spalatro, the most interesting of all, where the badness
of the weather, during the short time we stayed, prevented our landing
to see the extensive Roman remains. After anchoring off Curzola for a
night, we came to Ragusa, where we stopped two days. At Zara and
Sebenico we had opportunities of seeing the Morlaccian race. These are
the rural inhabitants of Dalmatia, speaking a Sclavonic dialect, while
in the towns they pride themselves on their Venetian origin and
language. Amongst these peasants were the noblest specimens of the
human kind I have ever seen. Of stature almost gigantic, and of the
amplest development of chest, their symmetry of limb and elasticity of
step would have called forth notice in a Scottish Highlander. Nor
could a somewhat manifest omission to cares of the toilet disguise
complexion and features almost faultless, and in which an expression
of frankness and good-nature left one nothing to fear from their armed
numbers. I speak not of a few among a crowd, but of nearly all I saw.
It was from amongst these that the French, during their occupation,
chose their finest grenadiers; but at present, in consequence of the
scantiness of the population, the humanity of the Austrian government
has suspended all conscription. Still it is possible, that, in the
hour of danger, Austria might profit more from the devoted loyalty of
this armed and stalwart peasantry, than if her ranks were filled with
its forced recruits. Their dress consists of a coarse brown jacket,
and a waistcoat of red cloth, both ornamented on the edges, and made
to sit close on the shoulders, without any collar, and which
advantageously display their well put on head and neck. They wear a
small red skull-cap, round at top; but, when married, they usually
surround this with a white turban. Their pantaloons are of blue, and
fit close from the knee to the ankle, and below they wear the
_opunka_--a species of sandal, made of sheepskin, and bound with
thongs, which, as may be seen from their elastic step and upright
carriage, are well fitted to their country; round their waist is a red
sash, and in front a leather belt, in which is placed a yataghan and a
smaller knife, and exhibiting usually the handsome pommels of silver
or brass-mounted pistols. Over all is a long brown cloak, open in
front, and fastening over the chest, forming a dress which, with their
free and martial bearing, gives them the appearance of ready-made
soldiers. The women are, comparatively, inferior to the men; but their
countenances are cheerful, and a white napkin gracefully put on the
head, had a very classical appearance. For the rest, they wore a
coarse shirt--over that a coarser, without arms, neither coming much
below the knee--a party-coloured apron and stockings, with opunkas,
like the men. Near Zara is a small colony of Albanians, who still
retain their national manners and dress, though settled time out of
mind.
Ragusa--of old a republic, with its doge and senate--is a city whose
glory has departed. This little state--consisting of the town, the
promontory of Sabioncello, the island of Melida, with a few smaller
ones--numbering about forty thousand inhabitants, had never been
subject by Venice, and was governed on the most aristocratic
principles. At the time of the late war, the inhabitants of the city
owned about four hundred large vessels--and observing the profiting by
neutrality, they traded every where, and acquired great wealth. But
they were not destined to escape the storm which overthrew so many
mightier states. In 1809 they became compulsory allies of the French.
Their nominal independence lasted about two years longer. During the
time the French occupied it, the city was attacked by the combined
forces of the Russians and Montenegrians; the former by sea, while the
latter conducted the operations on land. Luckily they failed to take
it; but they burned and destroyed, without exception, every one of the
numerous villas by which it was surrounded. Since the loss of her
independence, the trade of Ragusa has ceased, and her wealth has
departed; while many of her once haughty nobility have no other
subsistence than a scanty pension, which the bounty of the government
affords them. The town is interesting, and some of its buildings
ancient and peculiar, though hardly to be called handsome--the scale
being small. Of the country houses desolated by the Montenegrians, not
one in twenty has been repaired; and they remain roofless and
blackened, a lasting memorial of the ferocity of that people. The
neighbourhood is beautiful, and appears more so after the stony
desolation which the rest of Dalmatia exhibits. Though the houses
still remain in ruins, the gardens continue to be cultivated. Olives,
vines, figs, and carruba trees grow in them, and the tops of the hills
are covered with stone pines and delightful evergreens, of heaths,
junipers, cypress, and other plants, which at home we coax to grow in
our greenhouses.
Quitting Ragusa, after having been once driven back by the badness of
the weather, we at length entered the Bocca of Cattaro, after a
passage of about nine hours. Both in its general and immediate
position, few spots can be imagined so cut off from the rest of the
world as Cattaro. Standing close on the sea, with stupendous mountains
overhanging it on each side, it is deprived even of the light of the
sun for the greater part of the day; and, towards the end of
November--this is no boon. By land the Dalmatian coast-road (the only
one, I believe, in the country) passes through it, but it would prove
indifferent, I should think, to any but the pedestrian; and there is
also the mountain-path, of three hours' ascent, which leads into
Montenegro, and issues up from the gates of the town in a zigzag form,
till it appears lost in the clouds. Any one wishing to quit Cattaro,
has indeed, like the country waiter in England, but "three desperate
alternatives." He must wait for the next steamer, a whole month if in
winter, and return the way he came. Or he may attempt to pass through
Albania to Greece or the islands, which would in all likelihood prove
the last attempt he would ever make. Or he may hire one of the country
_trabacolos_ to take him where he likes. They are neither fast in
their sailing nor luxurious in their accommodation--the price being
any thing but cheap. In one thing the traveller has no difficulty,
which is to discover the first hotel, as their number is strictly
limited. Consequently in about half an hour, during which the steamer
had taken her departure, we found ourselves the inmates of the
principal _salon_ in the Locanda della Corona. It is ever a comfort,
when expectation is not at its highest, to find things better; and
happy the mind that seeks it!
The house was not very dirty, the landlady was full of kindness, and
not destitute of good looks. After her first paroxysms of welcome and
surprise had passed, then succeeded admiration, then a general
presentation to all friends and relations of the family that could be
summoned on a short notice, with many fervent blessings and prayers
for our welfare, and at length, which pleased us as much as any thing,
a very eatable dinner. During that day, and part of the ensuing week,
I improved my acquaintance with Cattaro--an acquaintance which, before
final separation, became very intimate indeed. It contains several
small squares or places, with some churches and other public
buildings. There is a respectable _cafe_, which is frequented by the
officers of the garrison, and on the whole it is rather a neat little
town. The population may be about three thousand. It is fortified,
having two gates to the land and one to the sea. Perched above, at a
great height, is the castle, said to be of considerable strength. In
the late war Cattaro was taken from the French by Sir William Hoste,
Bart., and afterwards garrisoned by the _Vladika_ of Montenegro, since
which time an Englishman has hardly been seen by the people within
their gates. Consequently their ideas of robbing the stranger are
faint and barbarous; here, as throughout Dalmatia, should you give a
man money, and the sum be not even more than twice the value of the
obligation, the poor ignoramus is delighted, and thanks and blesses
you most fervently. The climate of Cattaro is not considered healthy.
The inhabitants die of consumption in the winter, and fever in the
summer, and they generally have a sickly appearance. There are smart
silversmith shops, and many ornaments are wrought with much neatness.
There are several also devoted to the sale of arms, as the Montenegrians
here buy and repair the principal weapons they use. Pistols, guns, and
yataghans are mounted in silver and mother-of-pearl, coral and other
stones, with skill and taste. The population are as remote in
appearance from that of any town in western Europe, as in the most
primitive part of the East. The town's-people wear a black jacket of
cloth or velvet, with silver basket buttons, a small cap, and wide
drawers of the same cloth, with black stockings or high boots, and a
red sash. The costumes of some of the villages along the shores of the
Bocca are very pretty. The women from Dulcinea wear a body petticoat
and jacket of scarlet, with silver buttons and buckles, and a white
covering tastefully enfolding the head and shoulders. The peasantry to
the south wear the Montenegrian dress; the poorer ones, in extreme
scantiness. These profess, like that people, the tenets of the Greek
church, and in appearance and dialect do not differ from them. A
bolder look, however, and an air of independence, usually mark the
Montenegrian. Between Cattaro and Montenegro there is no quarantine or
restriction of intercourse. Without the latter the former would cease
to exist--without the former life would be burdensome in Montenegro.
Three times a-week a bazar is held outside each of the land gates, to
which the Montenegrians descend, themselves loaded with arms and
independence, and their women and mules with the richest products of
their country. Of these, mutton hams of peculiar excellence, potatoes
that cannot be imitated in these parts, salt fish from the lake of
Scutari, (to be caught, I fear, no more,) a root which looks yellow,
and dyes to match, with hides, poultry, and pigs, form the principal.
One of the chief articles which they seek is salt, with which some of
the above luxuries are compounded. This being a government monopoly,
is sold at the office in the town, and an animated scene takes place
on its opening, each striving to be served first, and, as a matter of
course, all speaking at once.
Having in a few days almost exhausted the varieties of Cattaro, and
the weather assuming a more favourable aspect, it became time to
execute our intended journey up the mountain. Times were stirring in
Montenegro. The nation was at war with two pashas, and the Vladika had
taken the field in person. Rumours were numerous; we could not have
come at a better time, and our trip promised to be one of interest.
His highness's postmaster, a gigantic warrior,[7] waited on us to
furnish mules and guides. Cesarea Petrarca, gentleman, of Cattaro,
hairdresser, auctioneer, and appraiser, ex-courier, formerly _chef de
cuisine_ to the Vladika--an "_homme capable_," as he not unaptly
styled himself, attended us to cook and interpret; and we started for
Cettigna on the 17th of November, about nine o'clock. I may here say a
few words concerning the state of politics then existing in
Montenegro. For the last half century or more, under the auspices of
the late revered bishop, so highly sainted in soul,[8] and so
beautifully preserved in body, the Montenegrians, backed secretly by
an influential power in the north, have been pursuing a system of
territorial encroachment as well as internal improvement. Anciently
their domain consisted of but a range of gloomy and barren rocks,
which would alike oppose the footsteps and extinguish the hopes of the
invader; since which various fertile _pianuras_ have been gained on
the side of Herzigovina and Bosnia. In 1781 Kara Mahmoot, hereditary
bey of Scutari, marched with a great army into Montenegro. Advancing
towards Cettigna, he was attacked in a narrow defile by the Vladika.
This was a great day for Montenegro. The Albanians were utterly
routed, and Black Mahmoot, being taken prisoner, surrendered his glory
and his head to his priestly conqueror, and it remains there among the
trophies of the Episcopal dwelling. The present Vladika is not
unworthy of his martial uncle. He is truly the flower of the house of
Petrowitch. On his first arrival from St Petersburg to assume the
government, his appearance was that of a Frank[9] gentleman, and his
habits those of a priest; but he discovered before long that the dress
of his native mountains better became his manly form, while the
troubles in which his state was so constantly engaged, soon made him
exchange the crosier for the sword, and become as ardent a warrior as
his predecessor. Ever since the beginning of the summer, war had been
waged with Osman Pasha of Mostar, concerning a disputed territory. On
one occasion the opposed forces were in sight for a week. The
Montenegrians consisted of seven thousand foot--the Turks (I write
according to my information) of forty thousand horse. (!) Every day
they fought, sometimes for two, sometimes four hours and upwards, as
fancy dictated. About fifty persons had been more or less injured in
this pastime, but their ardour was rather increasing than diminishing,
when the pasha of Scutari, without notice or warning, seized on the
islands of Vranina and Lessandro, at the head of the lake of Scutari.
The Montenegrians had there a post of about twenty men, but they were
overpowered, several killed, and the rest sent captive to Scutari.
Not satisfied with this, he fortified Lessandro in such a manner that
no Montenegrian could fish in the lake with any kind of pleasure or
comfort. This was a vital blow. Visions of the market of Cattaro rose
before the eyes of the nation. Peace with Osman Pasha was concluded at
any sacrifice, and the Vladika instantly hastened to concentrate his
energies toward the recovery of the lost islands.
Our party consisted of ourselves and two mules, one being for the
luggage--Cesarea Petrarca, in the full pride of office, and armed for
our protection with a very small sword and a very small gun--a woman
who had charge of the mules--and Spiro Martinowitch, an old and
respectable Montenegrian, with Milo his son, to act as guides. We
began the ascent about ten o'clock. Close outside the walls was
pointed out a village, the residence of a race of valiant butchers,
who have ever been at feud with the Montenegrians, by whom their
numbers have been much reduced. A tale was related of three having
defended themselves against four hundred of the enemy. After following
the steep but otherwise good road for about two hours, we arrived at a
stone with different species of eagles on two sides,[10] which marks
the boundary of the respective territories. The road instantly
degenerates into an indifferent mule-track. It took another hour to
gain the principal ascent, then, pursuing our way along the high land,
we reached a small hamlet, where we stopped a few minutes to comfort
ourselves with what could be procured. The path from hence to Cettigna
passes over a country which, at any season, must appear barren and
inhospitable. The peaks of the highest mountains in Montenegro rise
immediately above it. The ground was now covered with about an inch of
snow, and the air extremely cold. A few stunted bushes of beech
underwood, which serves for fuel, seemed to be the only vegetation.
Every thing else, grey rocks, sharp and rugged, to the smallest
fragment. We passed on our way the village of Negusi, the paternal
seat of the family of Petrowitch. Here the present Vladika was born,
in a mansion which was pointed out to us. It is a long-shaped hut,
built of loose stones, without windows or upper story. A somewhat
better dwelling is the property of the bishop's uncle, who governs the
village and adjacent district. Passing on by the hamlets of Bayitzi
and Donikrai, we arrived at the Episcopal residence about half-past
five in the evening, and immediately took up our quarters in the first
hotel. I will not say that the decorations of the chief apartment were
in the highest style of magnificence; but the bed was clean, and to
find any thing clean in these parts may be considered a victory
gained. Our hostess was from Cattaro, the seat of every refinement to
the ideas of a Montenegrian; and our host was a kind civil man,
speaking both French and Italian, and had been formerly engaged in the
great war. For the present he found it convenient to remain in
Montenegro, having been lately concerned in an "unfortunate affair"
near Budua, where certain tenements were harried and burned. Cattaro,
therefore, and its delights, were denied him for the present; but it
was hoped that the temporary bad odour would soon pass away. The
village was nearly deserted; few remained that night in Cettigna but
ancient men. The Vladika was on and away. He had departed that
morning, his brother remaining to take charge of the place. To-morrow
the assault of the fortress was to commence, or, some said, it had
already begun. We felt we had arrived at a good moment, and were
prepared to hasten in the morning to the scene of action, thirsting
with excitement. It was thought not unlikely that a battle might take
place. The evening was cold and wet, and we therefore took up our
position over the kitchen fire. In these regions this is placed in the
middle of the room, and the smoke gets out how it can, or not at all.
A peculiar sensation in the eyes will present itself to the mind as
the result of such an arrangement. The kitchen, however, besides being
the warmest, was by far the gayest place. Here we watched our dinner
cooked, and ate it afterwards; heard of wars and rumours of wars;
listened to heroic ballads, chanted by a warrior, and accompanied by a
species of one-stringed fiddle; and made the acquaintance of two very
fashionable young men. One was the bishop's nephew, a handsome lad
about seventeen, who was, on account of his youth, very shy and
modest, and acted as _cavaliero servente_ to the kitchen-maid. The
other was a remarkably good-looking and well-dressed young man, whom I
had observed on entering the place, and set down to be somebody. He
was, alas! but a tailor from Bosnia, who had come on a speculation to
Cettigna. A barren profession his, where fashions remain the same
summer and winter, and a suit lasts till it drops off. He was an
accomplished musician, as well, on the one-stringed instrument;
boasted of a white pocket-handkerchief, and his Italian, added to our
Servian, made up about twelve words in common; so that the evening
passed very sociably, and we retired to rest full of hope for the
morrow. But when that morrow came, one melancholy prospect of rain and
mist presented itself. The white clouds hung on the mountain-tops
immediately above. Not a breath of wind was stirring, and the rain
descended in torrents. There seemed not a chance of its clearing, nor
did it during the whole day. It was not, therefore, considered prudent
to proceed, where no bed was to be found, and where the chance of even
shelter was any thing but certain. Add to which, my companion in arms
was taken with a violent cold; so we felt obliged to restrain our
military ardour for one day, and proceeded to seek such recreation as
the metropolis afforded. Cettigna, the seat of the government of
Montenegro, and residence of the Vladika, is yet a city of no great
magnitude. It is situated prettily enough on a little plain, around
which the rocky summits of the mountains rise in the form of an
amphitheatre; not to any great height, however--the elevation of the
plain itself being very great. The most ancient building, indeed the
only one which seems not to have been erected within these few years,
is the monastery. This was till very lately the residence of the
Vladika and his predecessors, and it was here the King of Saxony
lodged when he visited Montenegro in 1836.[11] It is situated on the
side of the rocks which bound the plain, and consists of several
buildings of different periods joined together. The oldest has two
rows of arched passages, or cloisters, in front, one above the other.
Behind the convent, a wall runs up the hill, and encloses a small
circuit of rocky ground. The whole is in a very uncertain state of
repair. On the summit of a small rock immediately above, is a round
tower, built apparently for ornament at no very ancient date, but
never finished or roofed. It does not owe its decorations to the hand
of the architect. They are of a rarer kind. From the ends of poles
fastened into the top of the wall, two or three dozen heads, in all
stages of decay, overlook the residence of a Christian bishop. These
are Turks or Albanians who have fallen in different encounters, or
possibly in cold blood, as the Montenegrians never spare the life of a
prisoner. It was with somewhat doubtful feelings that I contemplated
these trophies. Around, the earth was strewed with skulls and other
relics of humanity. It was said that no head had been put up for
nearly two years. Certain it is, that the Lord Vladika did _not_ cause
to be placed there the heads of eighteen Turkish commissioners, who,
in the August previous, entered Montenegro to discuss a boundary
question. But why should I tell tales? I was hospitably received, and
treated, me and mine, with civility and kindness, not only by the
Vladika, but by every individual I met, and returned with my head
undisturbed by the trip. Some of the countenances still bore traces of
good looks, though withered by the sun and storm of years. It was a
severe test for beauty; but the head of one young man certainly stood
the trial. Fine features, of a cast frequently seen towards the north
of Albania, and a set of the best teeth, (this is very general,)
showed that he might have once been more prosperous in love than he
proved to be in war. I thought of a relic, and took up a skull, the
best I could find, but it was full of red earth, and seemed damp and
unpleasant; so I put it down again. I next discovered a beautiful
tooth; this would have surpassed the former in elegance and
convenience, but I fancied it not either, and came away, trusting to
my mind for a remembrance of the spot. From hence I made a sketch of
the present residence of the bishop, the second among the remarkable
edifices of Cettigna and its environs. It was built within these five
years, under the auspices of no less than my trusty attendant
Petrarca. The style is not, strictly speaking, imposing. Perhaps this
arose from suggestions of economy, or possibly from the mind of the
architect being at that moment unprepared with any other. Simplicity
in design and execution characterize it throughout. It consists of a
long single building of one low story, containing two rows of about
twenty windows on each side. There is a door in the middle, and at
each end a small wing placed crosswise, and a very little higher than
the rest, containing a window above and a door below. Both before and
behind, a large court is enclosed by a low wall of loose stones, with
little turrets at the corners, and two doorways in the principal. In
the front court are some old brass and iron cannon, lying
dismounted--trophies of Turkish war. Behind is an attempted kitchen
garden. The remainder of Cettigna is small, hardly worth
mentioning--six or seven houses with an upper floor, and about twice
as many ordinary huts. This forms the metropolis of Montenegro. But
small as it is, I doubt if there be a bigger village in the country,
the population, though sufficiently numerous, dwelling in small
scattered hamlets. The better houses act as hostelries when called on,
which may be the case when Parliament is sitting; but apart from the
bishop's officials and retainers, the place does not probably contain
a hundred souls. It being now noon, and the rain unabated, we
determined to see all the sights of the city. His highness's residence
was first visited. It contains the Chamber of Deputies, a printing
establishment, and various apartments for the accommodation of friends
and relatives. Entering one of these we found the Vladika's brother,
whom I have previously alluded to, and had the honour of a
presentation. He is a very ordinary-looking personage; and, as the
powers of language were wanting to express our feelings, we soon took
leave. The bishop's rooms for public and private reception, consist of
a billiard-room no bigger than is necessary for the due performance of
the game, at which he is a great adept, a small anteroom and bedroom.
His valet and chamberlain, a well-dressed Montenegrian, did the
honours. In the billiard-room the walls are hung with arms, though
some of these were now absent on service. I observed some fine Turkish
swords, some of an ancient date, presents to different Vladikas; some
Albanian daggers, straight, with a triangular blade, resembling the
ancient Venetian _misericordes_; and a handsomely mounted and antique
Servian sword, the blade with the wolf-mark, so well known in the
Highlands and other parts of Europe. There were some handsome
fire-arms; and, among others, a splendid pipe lately presented by
Osman Pasha of Mostar. In the anteroom I remarked with pleasure a
small three-legged stand, with a basin and towel; and I have heard
that other contrivances for the purification of the Episcopal person
are not wanting, though no such met my eye. In the bedroom, where the
odour of tobacco still remained unmitigated, was a cabinet, which,
when opened, displayed objects well worthy the attention of the next
pasha who may visit Cettigna. Russian orders and snuff-boxes
uncountable, set in the choicest brilliants; presents from the
Emperors of Austria of no mean value; a remembrance or two of the King
of Saxony, &c. &c. All these were opened by the _cameriere_ to our
free inspection; but not for this, nor the trouble we afterwards gave
him when exhibiting the sacerdotal robes, keeping him above half the
day, would he accept the smallest remuneration. This completed the
public rooms, (his highness is reported on occasions to give grand
entertainments, but the whereabouts was not manifest,) and we
proceeded to the ancient convent. This, formerly the Episcopal
dwelling, is still the residence of the chief officials attached to
the Vladika. The first among these is the vicar--(his other avocations
having only permitted the Vladika to officiate on two occasions)--"no
baron or squire or knight of the shire," &c. Truly on this occasion
the holy father had not been unmindful of himself; and, considering
the early hour and dreary state of the weather; was as jovial as the
heart could desire. A peculiar leer and frequent ebullitions of
laughter, from mysterious causes, showed the frame of mind he was in.
After coffee, and a glass of aniseed brandy, we viewed his priestly
robes, which were of cloth of gold and very handsome. We then
proceeded to make the acquaintance of the other officials, going the
round of the convent. We were most cordially received; indeed, we
appeared to be a godsend to these poor people. There was a Dalmatian
schoolmaster, a very intelligent young man, who superintended the
branch of national education; his highness's secretary, an Italian;
and a woman from Cattaro, the wife of another now absent at the camp,
and the only example of female aristocracy in Montenegro. At the
apartment of each of the inmates, coffee, invariably excellent, and
glasses of brandy, were handed round. These the holy personage in our
company always emptied to the uttermost, and then would romp and
wrestle with the schoolmaster, and perform all kinds of frolics. He
was a Hungarian by birth. When our German or his Italian respectively
failed, then Latin assisted our communications; and, what with the wet
weather and the coffee, we all became very sociable and chatty. After
an hour or two so spent, we took our way to the chapel. It is very
small; not capable, I should say, of accommodating above twenty or
thirty persons. There, embalmed, are the remains of the late Vladika.
The vicar removed the lid of the coffin, and he there appeared attired
in full canonicals. His face, however, was hidden, and the covering
was not removed. The limbs appeared to be much shrunk. The holy man
took the hand of the deceased, and, kissing it with the most solemn
devotion, burst into a wild laugh, and closed the lid. A small trifle
_pro salute animae_ was expected in a box adjoining it. We next went to
the robe-room, passing along a series of mouldy and rat-eaten floors
to a small room, such as might be found in a dilapidated stable-loft;
there, from old dingy boxes, were drawn forth such garments as created
astonishment--the richest damask and cloth of gold of all
colours--their weight enormous--so massive that they would almost
stand alone. I have never seen any thing so splendid; and the effect
of such upon the fine form of the Vladika must be worth beholding. In
another chest were deposited the crowns of different Vladikas. They
are of a shape resembling the ancient Russian diadem, being not of the
form of any kind of coronet, but a cap all covered or entire, globular
at top, and diminishing towards where they fit the head. Perhaps there
were half a dozen or more. They were richly ornamented with precious
stones--the present Vladika's the most so. I understand they are
presents from St Petersburg. By nine next morning the rain had
somewhat cleared, and the weather was mild and promising. We started,
therefore, hoping that night to reach the quarters of the Vladika,
though no one could speak positively to the place. We made some
enquiries as to the chance of finding shelter, as the nights were
singularly cold; but it was of course apparent that time alone could
decide. None of our friends from the monastery, who had been so
warlike the day before, made their appearance; so we started without
any addition to our party. The road was nearly all on the descent, and
usually so stony and rough as to make riding the mule a matter of
difficulty. We passed by Dobro Skorsello, one of the richest communes
of Montenegro; there figs, vines, and olives are grown: a wild species
of mulberry occurs, and large trees of it frequently appeared before a
hut or hamlet. These are wide-spreading and ancient, but not tall.
This district furnishes seven thousand fighting men. Here we met the
wife of one of the principal senators among a troop of females with
bundles of wood upon their head. We now had the first intelligence
from the camp. Descending into a little plain we met about two hundred
men returning to celebrate a village fete, as their services were not
just then required. They passed in single file; wild, active-looking
fellows they certainly were. In about half an hour after, we
encountered forty or fifty others. These were peculiarly warm in their
friendship, and slapped me so hard on the back that it required my
utmost force to return the compliment with any thing like cordiality.
They took it into their heads that I was a certain long-expected
bombardier who was to direct their artillery against Lessandro, and
they loaded me with compliments and good wishes. I almost, at the
moment, regretted my want of knowledge in the art. About one o'clock
we descended upon the Nariako river, then a rapid clear green stream,
which conducts the torrents of the upper mountains to the lake of
Scutari; and, in another hour, reached the village of that name, which
is known also by the Italian one of Fiumara. We trusted here to
procuring a boat which would convey us the remainder of the journey;
but the natives of this free country are seldom in a hurry, and in
fact it was necessary that we should be made popular idols for a
certain space; nor had we the means of keeping each other in
countenance. I was hurried off, accompanied by Petrarca, to the house
of the captain of the district, a senator, I understood, and eminently
brave; while my unfortunate companion, without any one to help, was
taken possession of by a lady of rank, a Cattarese by birth, but who
had nearly forgotten her native tongue, and in a short time was
surrounded by all the females and olive branches of the place. The
usual brandy, with coffee and pipes, was served to our party. The
houses, or little dirty huts rather, have in front a small balcony
covered at top, and raised about four or five feet from the ground;
here Spiro, Petrarca, and myself were seated, with my host and several
others. While the lady of the house brought in the pipes and
refreshments, I made some very sensible observations, which Petrarca
clothed in Servian, and the replies seemed in every way equal;
notwithstanding, in about an hour the liveliness of the scene began
somewhat to wear off, and I took the first opportunity of hastening to
rescue the other sufferer. Here I discovered the object of public
attention seated on a bench with her host and hostess, one on each
knee as it were, and the room thronged with spectators; women and
children were squatted or perched on every conceivable spot. The
harmony of the party had, however, undergone for a moment a trifling
disorder; for, while all the rest had been full of compliment and
courtesy, one elderly lady had thought proper to express herself in a
manner contradictory to the general feeling, and in the strongest
terms, going even the length of shaking her fist at the occupant of
the post of honour. She was, however, bundled out most unceremoniously,
neck and crop, as the phrase is. After further delays, and declining a
most uninviting dormitory, a boat was got ready; four warriors were in
her, and we departed amid the cheers of the population and a
promiscuous discharge of fire-arms. This was warmly responded to by
our party; nor did I much regret when these demonstrations had ceased,
as a Montenegrian considers it quite etiquette to discharge his
heavy-loaded piece any where in the immediate vicinity of the head, so
long as the muzzle just clears the honoured individual. In a few
minutes we were gliding down the beautiful stream. The absence of all
wild animals is peculiarly observable in the mountains. A woodcock or
red-legged partridge are occasionally seen; but few quadrupeds are met
with, and the larger and fiercer kinds are rarely known to occur. This
deficiency, however, in the general zoology, is amply compensated by
the birds which frequent the Fiumara river. As we proceeded, muffled
up in the bottom of the boat, for it was very cold, the fitful
exertions of our warlike crew disturbed quantities of aquatic birds.
The river widened greatly, the mountain banks disappearing, till at
length the shores became obscure in the distance, and thus it
imperceptibly enters and forms the lake of Scutari. Cormorants and
ducks passed over in flocks; noble herons got up screaming on every
side. One of these was the milk-white aigrette; superior in size to
the common heron. The kingfishers had a beautiful appearance. I never
saw this bird elsewhere in such multitudes. I did not request any of
my crew to try their skill, as I had had enough of firing for the time
being, nor did I take a fancy to do so myself. The large bore and
light metal of their arms, added to the weight of the charge, spoke of
a recoil any thing but pleasing, and which I hear usually takes place.
Next day, however, I asked the captain of the boat to show me a shot;
he took aim at a diver which kept appearing a-head; he fired when
nothing but the neck was visible above water, and the ball completely
divided it, the head barely hanging by a bit of skin. The bird was
distant about fifty yards, and the boat moving, while he stood on the
bow. At some longer shots he was not so successful. We passed a
village at a small distance, and lay on our oars to hear the news.
Most of the people were absent; but one, a great man, was seated on
the hut-top, with a few idlers round him. This was the chief president
of the senate--the speaker of the house, in short; and undoubtedly, if
stentorian lungs are of any use for that office in a Montenegrian
parliament, he was most amply qualified. For twenty minutes this
eminent man conversed with us--the distance at first being about a
quarter of a mile, and probably it might be three miles or more before
he was finally out of hearing. The Turkish fortress of Dzabiack now
appeared perched on a steep isolated hill rising from the marsh. It
seemed, as we passed it about two miles off, to be in a very
dilapidated condition. The Montenegrians, however, had at present no
designs upon it; and its garrison maintained a peaceful neutrality.
They have on several occasions destroyed this fortress, which has been
occupied again by the Turks. It gives then little annoyance, being
distant, I should think, five miles from the head of the lake. All was
now water, but the principal channels above were passable, the rest
being overgrown with weeds. At several of these, long consultations
occurred as to our best route. It began to rain a little, and the
place of our destination seemed doubtful. At length we emerged on the
broad beautiful lake, and our progress was easy. We soon came in sight
of the beleaguered island and fortress of Lessandro. The cannonade,
which we had heard during the earlier part of the day, had long
ceased, and all seemed quiet. It was still twilight, but the place to
which our people had determined on going, lay beyond the foot of a
mountain which projected to a nearer approach with the island. This
was the very mountain on the top of which the Vladika had placed his
batteries. They considered it prudent, therefore, to wait till dark,
before passing within point-blank range of the enemy's guns. We,
therefore, hauled the boat up, and waited under lee of the point. As
soon as the light had failed, we moved forward, passing stealthily
along the shore to within about three hundred yards of the fort. The
previous garrulity of our party was now hushed, and they exhibited the
most laudable prudence. I observed, however, that they had all their
guns cocked and ready, as if they intended to have returned any
compliment from the fortress; but no such contingency was at hand. The
Albanians were engaged in chanting martial choruses, possibly to
maintain their own valour as well as dismay their opponents, and show
what excellent health and spirits they possessed after the two days'
siege. At any rate, they made too much noise to hear any thing but
themselves. As we went along shore, we were several times challenged
by those on the look-out, and long explanations passed in low yet
distinct tones. At length the danger was passed, and we went a-head
for about two miles along the lake; then, turning off up a deep
sluggish stream, we came in sight of our quarters. A large fire blazed
in the principal of three huts, and by its light numerous persons were
seen around it. Landing with our baggage and equipage, we soon joined
the circle; about a dozen warriors were here assembled. They were
very civil to us, and glad to see our party. They gave us the best
place at the fire, where, spreading our plaids, we were soon occupied
with such dainties as the place or our own providence supplied. When
it came to be bed-time, the fighting part of the community
good-naturedly suffered themselves to be persuaded to go to the other
end of the room, by which means we were enabled to lie down by the
fire. There they rolled themselves up, and, in the shortest possible
time, were in a state of oblivion. I may observe that the people in
general, men or women, have seldom any beds. They lie down any where
on the floor, ensconced in a capote or cloak, removing perhaps their
opunkas, but scarcely ever any other garment. We should have been
pretty comfortable but for the minute hosts that peopled the
apartment. Late at night, too, the extreme cold compelled several
parties to seek refuge by the fire who had no right or little
thereto--as the house-cat and her two kittens; she would take no
denial, however often repelled. Whenever one awoke, there she would be
with her interesting offspring close nestled under one's chin. The
family dog, too, suffered severely from cold; he was, as often as he
entered, kicked out by his master in a way that did the heart good;
and his murmurs of complaint and resentment would last for a full ten
minutes. But the door would not fasten, and he always found his way in
again, trampling over, in his way to the fire, the recumbent forms of
the sleepers, in a manner far from conducive to good-humour. It was,
therefore, not to be wondered at that our slumbers were not prolonged
to a late hour. I set forth at break of day to find a clear-looking
place in the river: for as I was to be presented to his highness, I
could not afford to forego any advantages. The ice was on the side of
the pools; but with the aid of a small box I carried under my arm, I
soon had all the requisites of an elaborate dressing-room. Several of
the Montenegrians were also on the alert, rubbing their faces with the
muddy water on the edge of the lake; but whether to make them cleaner
or dirtier did not appear. Breakfast was soon dispatched. Already the
cannonade had commenced, and we hastened to the scene of action.
Lessandro is a small low islet, perhaps a hundred yards long by forty
or fifty wide; at one end was the principal, at the other, a minor
fort. The first consisted of a thick round tower, flat at top, where
their largest gun was mounted. This was surrounded by a low wall, with
two small bastions at different angles; the other was a square
building, with a bastion at one corner, containing, I believe, the
stores. All over the island were the tents of the soldiers--that of
the commander distinguished by a red flag. I think I counted about
forty. The Montenegrians declared they had in the island five hundred
men. Not one was visible however, the whole day. Under the lee of the
chief fort was anchored a small gun-boat from Scutari. On one side of
Lessandro rises, in immediate proximity, the mountainous island of
Vranina. It was here that the Vladika at first wished to have taken up
his position; but boats, it was said, were wanting to transport his
men and munitions. Had he attempted this, a serious encounter would
probably have taken place; but he had given up the idea, and it was as
in consequence of this that we had met the men returning home the day
before. The spot he fixed on was a mountain directly opposite Vranina,
but at a greater distance from the object of attack. He had not with
him altogether above fifty men. This time we had once more to pass
within a quarter of a mile of the fort; and as we were a boat-load of
armed men hastening to headquarters, I somewhat expected they might
have condescended to notice us. Such, however, was not the case; and
we landed and ascended the hill to where the battery was placed. We
had not been there long before the Vladika, who was on a higher part
of the ground, having heard of our arrival, came down to meet us. I
felt for a moment rather modest, and began to wonder what business I
had there. However, we advanced with all boldness, and soon
distinguished the chieftain from his attendants by his giant stature.
No bishop's cassock covered his towering form. Clothed in scarlet and
gold, he descended the hill with the true Albanian strut. His manner
was frank and cordial; and on his invitation we all three sat down on
the grass to partake of a camp luncheon. The Vladika was then in the
thirty-fifth year of his age. In truth, he was a goodly man--a very
Saul among his people. His height I should think very nearly midway
between six and seven feet. He was not fat, but the breadth and
massiveness of his chest and limbs was extraordinary. His figure was
very finely proportioned, and his movements free and active. His face
was somewhat broad, with good features, and his voice peculiarly soft
and pleasing. His hair and beard black, and, after the fashion of the
Greek clergy, uncut. He wore a Turkish pelisse of scarlet, coming
nearly to the knee, and trimmed with gold and sable, a large fur cap,
and the usual blue drawers and opunkas of the Montenegrians. A pair of
plain European pistols were in his belt--the only arms he wore. The
place where we sat was in a most picturesque situation. The Turkish
balls kept whizzing past, forming, as his highness remarked, beautiful
music. Indeed, it seemed to me we were very nearly in the line a
well-directed shot ought to have taken; but, of course, it was not my
place to speak. Our fare consisted of cold meat carved in slices with
the yataghan, and rum out of the mouth of the same bottle. He
conversed in French fluently, and various courteous speeches showed it
was not the first time he had encountered female society. He seemed
excited when relating the misdeeds of his enemies, and his usually
languid voice assumed a little asperity, as he described the way in
which, while he made war in Bosnia, "ces diables des Turcs" had
surprised his garrison at Lessandro. My knowledge of gunnery was not
extensive, still I could not be ignorant of the chance he had, with
three short twelve-pounders, of injuring any building whatever, when
firing at it at a distance of eight hundred yards, in an almost
perpendicular direction. The fort, besides, seemed very sturdy and
solid, and I could not flatter him with hopes of success. He did not,
however, appear to be without hope. Certainly, had he chosen to risk
an assault with some trifling loss, the place might have been in his
possession; but boats were not at hand in sufficient numbers, and
besides, such a proceeding might not have been popular with amateur
soldiers. He asked me if I had brought any letters to him; I frankly
owned I had not. "Ah!" he said, "you came from curiosity, that you
might talk in the gay circles of London, of having seen the Vladika of
Montenegro." I did not say, that were I to do so, I should talk very
unintelligibly to a great many of my hearers. After our collation was
finished, we rose and proceeded to the battery, if it could be
honoured with such a name. But had its power been as extensive as the
view from it, it would have amply sufficed. The day was now most
beautiful and spring-like, and various flowers, with sportive
butterflies and other insects, enlivened the mountain side. The broad
blue lake lay beneath, and in the extreme distance the position of
Scutari itself could be distinguished. Three ranges of mountains were
visible, rising one above the other, till the snowy chains of Bosnia
bounded the horizon. The cannonade, as there was little to be
apprehended, added to the beauty and interest. The wreathing of the
white smoke on the Turkish tower, and the report borne along in the
calm air, and echoed a dozen times by the distant mountains--the
gradual approach and whizzing of the balls, and the shot from our
guns, as it hit the buildings, or occasionally bounded along the
water, were all interesting novelties. I made a sketch, to the best of
my ability, of every object of interest in the vicinity of this lovely
spot. As regards matters purely military, we had three guns in
operation--short twelves, as I have already mentioned; a rampart was
before them, formed of earth, bound with stakes, and about three feet
thick. I was told this had only been struck four times. Few people
were about. Nor could gunners of fame have been in plenty, for I soon
discovered Petrarca pointing the cannon. The shot also was of
different sizes--any that could be got, as Austria does not favour
the importation of warlike materials into Montenegro; and to this
disparity of metal may be ascribed the constant difficulty which the
Montenegrian gunners experienced in hitting even the island. Still
they kept the game alive, the Turks not giving one shot for three.
They appeared to have four guns, but their biggest was on the platform
of the chief tower, a screen of masonry protecting it from lying
entirely open to our position on the hill. They fired also several
shells, but they did no damage, exploding high in the air. At length
the Vladika approached the best cannon, anxious to display his skill.
He took a long aim, and then fired, exulting greatly when the ball
struck the stone screenwork at top of the tower. This was just where
he aimed, and it was the best shot by far that I had seen. A little
dust seemed to fly, but no further damage. The reply of the Turks came
promptly, but his highness did not honour their skill by even ducking
below the rampart. It lodged in the side of the hill several feet
below us. We remained, enjoying the interesting scene and beautiful
day, till about one o'clock, when the Montenegrian batteries suspended
operations from a temporary failure of ammunition. Being desirous of
passing the night in less crowded quarters than the previous one, we
now took our leave of the Vladika, and returned to the hamlet we had
left in the morning; and having with some difficulty procured a pony,
we set off to get as far on our road to Cattaro as we could, not
returning by Cettigna, which would have been round about, but entering
the Austrian territory above Budua and Castel Astua--Cattaro at
present lying to the north-west of us. The boy who conducted this same
pony, (a little mare, with a mule foal running beside her,) was the
most unmitigated savage I have met with on my travels, though not more
than ten years old. He was the ugliest little urchin I ever saw--his
only clothing was a piece of an old sack and ragged opunkas. After
galloping some distance to meet us, his mind misgave him as to his
pistol, and he returned and made his father, who was working in the
field, exchange with him. He then undertook to lead the pony, (the
animals here do not go pleasantly unless led, and also by some one
they are acquainted with,) which he did in the most desperate manner,
walking at about seven miles an hour. No concern of his what became of
the knees of the occupant, or with what stones or thorns they might be
brought into collision. When he came to a precipice in the road, and
there were many, down he jumped tugging the beast after him, and not
looking behind once. All this time the foal kept jamming up against
its mother. It was soon evident that the dismissal of this youth and
his cattle was a _sine qua non_, as cautions were vain. But on a sum
being offered which he considered less than his due, having come about
a mile, he took his own part in a manner most edifying in one so
young; and had the retainers of our party not been as well provided as
he, I believe he would have pistolled the whole of us. At length,
finding his efforts fruitless, he sprang on the pony, and putting her
to her best pace, was soon out of sight. About the same time we fell
in with two monks from the convent of Bercelli, who were on their way
to pay their respects to the Vladika. This was fortunate, as we had
intended to sleep there. These were the only inmates, and had the key
of the place with them. After treating the party to brandy, one of
them turned back with us. He was an old man, and he had to return a
distance of twelve miles; but he never seemed to give this a thought.
They were dressed in black gowns, and high black caps. Our road lay
through a populous district, and many were the salutations Petrarca
received, coupled with enquiries respecting us--long conversations
taking place over miles of intervening hill and dale. This time, I
believe, I filled the part of the English ambassador. The outward
appearance of our quarters, when we arrived, was not prepossessing;
but the state of dirt of the best room could hardly have been
anticipated. Its equal--I speak advisedly--could not be found out of
the country we were in. The floors mouldy and rat-eaten--old shelves
hanging about, containing every kind of rubbish--crusts of bread, a
bit of tallow candle in a bottle--old cups and glasses in different
directions, with the remains of something in the bottom of every one.
The only covering on the boards which formed the bed, was a sheepskin
blanket, very old and dirty, looking like the mother of fleas. It
would take a page to mention the manifold horrors that presented
themselves. At length, after a late bad supper, I felt repose
desirable, be it where it might. We had stipulated, however, for the
sole possession of this melancholy dormitory, and having made up the
best bed I could, turned in with loathing; but the cold made one less
particular, as it was hard frost, and the windows had no shutter or
fastening of any kind. I found, however, there was one exception to
our sole right of tenure; no other than the old priest himself, whom I
had shortly to get up and let in. Poor man! he had nowhere else to go;
and having given up his luxurious couch, he proposed for himself to
court slumber on the top of an old chest--it looked hard, certainly,
and the poor old man seemed ill at ease. All night he rested none. He
groaned much, and was afflicted with a cough and its usual results;
and in each result he laboured long and strenuously, as though putting
his whole soul in it, till a severe shock on the opposite wall showed
the successful issue of his exertions. We did not lie in bed next
morning very long after waking, and by six o'clock were on our road,
expressing a firm determination to reach Cattaro or perish, sooner
than pass another night in a Montenegrian homestead. There was no
other mule to be procured to-day, so it was a case of riding and tying
with the portmanteau. When the latter walked, it usually did so on the
head of the poor woman who brought the mule. The remainder of our
luggage consisted of two carpet-bags, and Spiro and Melo slung one of
these upon each of their guns, and proceeded merrily. We entered the
Austrian territory by the village of Braitsch. The people hereabouts
are very poor and ill-off. Our way overlooked the sea; below us lay
Budua. We halted, to give ourselves and the mule a drink, by the fort
of Stanivitch. This was formerly a convent, and under the dominion of
Montenegro; but Austria has lately become possessor of it, through, I
believe, a pecuniary arrangement with the Vladika. His territory,
however, at no time reached the sea in any part, though this is not
distant above two or three miles; it was now a military post. A
Moravian captain was in command, who most politely invited us to stay
the night, fearing we should be unable to reach Cattaro; however, it
was then only four o'clock, the day was bright, and the sight of the
sea encouraged us. Besides, I noticed a _flea_ on the collar of his
coat. We thanked him for his kindness, and persevered on our journey.
Our road lay nearly all on the descent, and while it was good, and the
daylight lasted, we hurried forward with all speed. At length it
became very rocky and precipitous; and, as the light soon failed
entirely, it became necessary to mount the portmanteau, as it was not
possible for any biped to sustain it longer on their head, and to
maintain their equilibrium as well. From very bad, things got to much
worse. The track, as well as the whole country, was composed of
angular grey rocks, among which, in the now total darkness, it became
nearly impossible to discern the path. These stones had a light
appearance, and it was desirable to avoid bringing one's shins in
contact with them; but if a spot seemed dark, and might be imagined to
be soft ground, it proved to be one of the villanous prickly bushes of
the country. This shrub grows all over Albania and Dalmatia, and, I
believe, in Italy; it is low and bushy, with abundance of flat round
seed; the spines are set both ways, up and down the twig, and are the
most malignant thorns I ever met with. Whatever part of your garments
they catch hold of, from that they have never been known to part.
Presently our road became inhabited by a stream of water, and every
step that avoided the stones was ankle-deep in mud. How the mule could
have got on, as I could not see, I cannot imagine, but the box which
it carried was not seriously damaged. The two guides in their opunkas
walked firmly, but the others were tumbling frequently. The female
who had come with us now fairly "compounded," according to the
sporting phrase, and gave vent to her sufferings in tears and
reproaches. This had, however, a reviving effect upon others of our
party, who were near compounding themselves--for I had rather been
holding out the endurance of this poor woman, who had walked most of
the day with a portmanteau on her head, as an example for imitation.
The town of Cattaro at length became visible far below us, after
almost the longest three hours I ever passed. At other times, I might
have been tempted to derive amusement from the mishaps of my friends
under similar circumstances; but at present, some of the party had
been reduced to such desperation, that I began sometimes to doubt the
favourable issue of our journey. By nine o'clock the land gates are
closed, and this we had heard already strike. The sea gate is open for
another hour. It was not till after this, that, having gained the
coast road which leads to Cattaro from the south, we reached the town.
There, a boat was requisite to take us over the sea gate; but all the
town boats had long since retired, and it took us at least half an
hour to awake somebody on board a trabacolo in the harbour. When at
length we were conveyed to the gate, a small gratuity to the sentinels
gained us admission, and a little before midnight we found ourselves
once more in our favourite inn. We remained some days at Cattaro,
arranging for our departure. During this time, we heard that the
Vladika had at length found his task hopeless, and abandoned
hostilities. He had been, however, a week arriving at such a
conclusion, and the sound of the cannonade was heard during the whole
of the time occupied by our return. It was a pity to see a worthy
potentate of moderate means spending his pocket-money so fruitlessly.
The philanthropist will be glad to learn that no lives were sacrificed
during this protracted siege. The Montenegrians, more modest than some
of our own neighbours on a late occasion of very similar glory, laid
claim only to having wounded one man in the fort; but an Albanian
bulletin might have denied even that.
Before concluding, a few further particulars concerning Montenegro
will not be out of place. In former days, as I have observed, they
were but a den of mountain thieves, dangerous to each other, and
unapproachable by strangers. At the present time, no country can boast
superiority in either of these respects. Indeed, in so small a
community, crime is rare, from the greater certainty of detection. I
speak nothing, of course, of border pastimes with their neighbours;
and these, possibly, form a safety-valve to the pent-up propensities
of the inhabitants. This important change has been brought about
within fifty years, but, most of all, during the twelve years that the
present Vladika has reigned. But the Vladikas who have effected this
change, actuated by the desire of improving the condition of their
people, have been obliged to barter their independence, in a manner,
for Russian gold, in order to give them the means of effecting it. I
am not able to say when the subsidizing system first commenced, but at
present the Vladika, as well as all the officials and senators,
receive their stipends. That of the Vladika amounts, I believe, to
about eight thousand pounds annually; but this may include a small tax
of, I think, two shillings on each household, which is paid by the
Montenegrians themselves. Of the senators, there are forty who are
elected by the communes, and paid by Russia. There is also a force of
eight hundred men paid, and residing in different districts, which
forms an executive police; but there is nothing in the shape of a
standing army. The Vladikas are appointed by the emperor in nepotal
succession from the family of Petrovitch. The present Vladika received
his education at St Petersburg, and several of his nephews are now
there, from whom his successor will be chosen. I am not acquainted
with the amount of temporal power possessed by the Vladika, but I
should think it was subject to much restraint. I have heard that, on
more than one occasion in the senate, he has been personally
threatened during the stormy debates which have occurred. Though he is
generally popular, it would seem that here, as elsewhere, there
exists a strong party opposed to all reform, and pining for the good
old days of general license. The demeanour of the Montenegrians to
their Vladika, though respectful, is free and independent. On meeting
him the hand is raised to the head, or, if near, they offer to kiss
his hand. This salutation is paid to any ordinary priest, and
occasionally, through all Dalmatia, to a stranger like myself. Russia,
it will be seen, reigns as completely in Montenegro as though its
passes were occupied by her soldiers. The supplies stopped, all would
be anarchy and confusion. Nor do the Montenegrians object to this in
any way. Their personal independence is in no way compromised, and
their laws and usages remain unaltered. There is not a single Russian
in Montenegro, and, only knowing them at distance, they regard them at
present with hearty good-will. The Vladika, however, who reaps the
greatest benefits, has, it would appear, to submit to a certain loss
of freedom. During the past summer he visited Trieste and Vienna; and
I was informed, on good authority, had desired to go to England, but
had been unable to obtain the permission of an emperor who seems
determined no one shall travel but himself. The Vladika had certainly
expressed to me a hope that he should visit England some time. There
can be no doubt that it is well worth while thus to secure the
alliance of the Montenegrians, for they would prove a bitter thorn in
any collision either with Turkey or Austria. The country is divided
into twelve military jurisdictions, under so many captains, and every
man is bound to serve, though by what power, except inclination, I am
sure I do not know. I do not imagine that this has been particularly
provided for, so willing are they to serve uncalled.
The population of Montenegro is at the present time not short of one
hundred and twenty thousand souls. Of these, more than half would be
serviceable were their own territory invaded; for every boy of eight
years old and upwards carries a gun, and there is no reason he should
not point it as straight as an older person, presenting, at the same
time, a smaller mark to the enemy. The women even occasionally assist,
and at all times carry the ammunition and supplies. I used sometimes
to think, when meeting one of these armed urchins, how ignominious it
would be to be robbed by him; and yet, were he only cunning enough to
keep out of arm's-length, I don't exactly know how it could be helped.
The arms of the Montenegrians consist of a long gun, usually very
elegantly mounted, the stock short, and curved like a horse's neck;
round his waist is a belt with cartouch-boxes containing the spare
ammunition, the cartridges for immediate use being in the pistol-belt
in front. Here, in a leather case, is a mass of arms which occupy the
same relative position to the wearer as the youthful kangaroo to its
parent; here are a brace of pistols with a pointed pommel, and a
yataghan, which is used in these countries to the entire exclusion of
the sword, and which, from its position in the belt, does not get in
the way when walking--the ramrod for the pistols also, which in the
East is a separate arm, containing sometimes a dagger or a pair of
tongs for adjusting the never-absent pipe, and a smaller knife is
often slung on behind. In ordinary times, a yataghan or pistol may be
dispensed with; but whatever may be the occupation of man or boy, the
gun is never left behind, whether ploughing, or cutting wood, or
carrying the heaviest burdens. It is almost extraordinary that they
should thus encumber themselves, as, within their own boundary, none
are so safe, and their mountains seldom afford them a living mark. I
believe it arises very much from a fondness for the weapon. The
greatest care is taken of it, and it undergoes a complete cleaning
after every shot. The arms of the people in general present a striking
contrast to their dress. On the former they spend most of their spare
money, and they are kept in great order and cleanliness. The warriors,
when they take the field, fight more for plunder than for honour and
glory. The spoils of houses and farm-steads, or the arms or heads of
their enemies, (a prisoner is never spared,) all form desirable
prizes. It must be remembered their service is chiefly voluntary, and
they receive no pay. It is not their tactics to expose themselves
much in battle. The grey rocks, which suit well the colour of their
dress, afford a shelter, from behind which they take well-directed
aim. Every man acts to the best of his judgment--usually acute where
self-preservation is the law; and their great activity and powers of
endurance enable them, in their difficult country, to contend with
many advantages against regular troops. In 1838, during a temporary
collision with Austria, they gave as good as they received, to say the
least; and perhaps it was owing to this that peace was so soon
concluded. In such a country cavalry is out of the question, and
horses are seldom used. The Vladika himself possesses a considerable
stud. The dress of the people--at all seasons the same--consists of a
white coat of coarse cloth, with generally a blue edging, open in
front, and reaching nearly to the knee. This has no buttons, but is
fastened round the waist by a red sash. They are usually shirtless,
and their hardy bosoms brave the storm in all weathers. Around their
shoulders is thrown a description of plaid, generally of a brown
colour, about three feet wide and six feet long; and from keeping this
in its proper position, a slight stoop becomes habitual. They have
wide drawers of blue serge, or sometimes of the material of their
coats, which is thicker; of this also are their leggings formed. Under
the opunkas is worn a thick woollen sock; but in wet weather the men
and women usually go barefooted. On their head is a small round cap of
scarlet or black cloth. Their custom is to shave the whole of the face
excepting the mustaches, as well as the sides and crown of the head;
but from long neglect, it is often difficult to distinguish the
favoured localities. Petrarca, in his avocation of barber, was in the
greatest request. The costume of the women does not differ widely, but
the coat is longer, and a petticoat replaces the blue drawers--round
their waist is a belt of great weight, about three inches wide, and of
the thickest leather, set with cornelians and other coarse stones,
mounted in brass. The red cap is usual, and the hair is often prettily
braided. I have seen some head-dresses composed of silver coins. None
of the people seem to be in the habit of bathing or washing, and they
do not remove their garments at night. The children have often nothing
but a shirt. As a nation they are healthy and robust, though fevers
occur at certain times in some districts. Among the men two casts of
features are general; the one, known among us as the "Jack Sheppard
face"--the lower parts rather prominent, and the nose short and
somewhat turned up, the complexion and hair very dark. The other is
very different, a bright colour and high handsome features; yet nearly
every person one meets belongs to one of these two varieties. The
latter is commonest among the tallest men. They have all very good
teeth, and their expression is intelligent and good-humoured. As in
feature, so in stature, considerable uniformity appears. Their height
averages about five feet ten, with great development of muscle. The
women are relatively inferior in looks--they are broad and short,
seeming to possess great strength; but the labour they undergo, and
the burdens they carry, appear inimical to beauty. They have often
pleasant countenances and good brick-dust complexions. The Servian or
Naski here spoken is considered among the purest dialects of
Sclavonic--it has a very pleasing sound, being softer and more
melodious than the Russian. My stay was unfortunately not long enough
to obtain much knowledge of it, and this want will sufficiently
account for any errors that may appear in my descriptions of what I
did not personally witness; for it prevented that free intercourse
with the people, by which a true insight to their manners can alone be
acquired. Their laws seem very simple; he who kills is killed--shooting
being the mode of execution. He who robs must make good; and, as few
of the people are in abject poverty, this is usually done. Should they
fail, a summary flogging is inflicted. At Cettigna is a small prison;
I believe there is no other. When any one is there confined, he trusts
entirely to his friends for subsistence. They are good-humoured,
obliging, and extremely loquacious; but their continued spitting is
very disagreeable. I witnessed no games or diversions among them
except the one-stringed fiddle; but I understood that they have a few
athletic sports, such as wrestling and putting the stone. They often
go to sea. I encountered two among the crew of an Austrian packet.
They all profess the Greek faith, and are in their way very religious.
When passing a church they bow and cross themselves, and perform all
sorts of pious movements, which sometimes border on the ludicrous.
Before going to sleep they make long prayers. Previous to visiting the
Vladika, an armed Montenegrian entered in the morning the house where
we slept, and casting aside his gun and cloak, commenced reading mass
to the assembled party. This was the priest of the parish. The older
members of the community are not usually very enlightened; but through
the schools established by the Vladika, where instruction is dispensed
gratuitously, most of the rising generation can read and write their
native language, and a sufficiency of neatly printed books are issued
from the press he keeps employed at Cettigna. No social distinctions
are yet known among them, and the most perfect equality prevails--even
the sons address their father by his Christian name. The only
exception is in the person of the Vladika--his lot on the whole is not
an enviable one. The only educated mind among the many--the only
polished gentleman among simple peasants; he is indeed an isolated
being. Handsome and in the prime of life, yet there must be none to
cheer his lot, or lighten his solitude, nor any to whom he would love
to transmit his mountain throne. In this respect the laws of his order
are stringent, and the breath of scandal has never yet sullied his
fair name, though it is quite true that whilst in his native land the
temptations are not very severe. I should not be surprised if a report
I heard current should prove true, that he intended, at no very
distant period, to relinquish the government of Montenegro, and spend
the remainder of his days among a people more congenial to the habits
of a man of education. Were he an absolute potentate, an extended
field for benefiting his countrymen might be obtained; but with his
more constitutional power, the attempts he has been able to make have
been constantly thwarted by prejudice and ignorance. Had he the
privileges or the ties of an ordinary man, then, as we all know, the
barrener the rocks, the dearer seems the love of the native land; but,
situated as he is, he can hardly be accused of want of patriotism if
his stay in Montenegro should not extend beyond the time required in
saving sufficient of his income to quit it.
Our voyage from Cattaro to Corfu was accomplished in a small
trabacolo--the San Marco of Spalatro--having on board three men and a
boy. These boats, though not fast, are very safe, and the Dalmatians
in general manage small craft well. The north wind is scarce at this
time of the year, but a beautiful _tramontana_ blew during the time we
were working out of the Bocca. This we lost entirely, and not a breath
moved its calm waters. We had also to wait some hours at Port Rosa,
situated at the entrance of the Bocca, for our papers. By the time we
were out at sea, the wind had nearly died away, and the next day found
us employed gathering wild pomegranates on the desolate shores near
Antiversi, in Albania. Again a beautiful tramontana sprang up, and in
a vessel of first-rate sailing powers, would almost have brought us
in. All day we went gallantly along. The heads of Ducazzo--Dyrrichium
of old--began to appear, and soon we passed it in a foam. All night we
held on, and in the morning were beside the "_infames scopulos
Acroceraunia_," and in sight of the island of Sassina, near the
harbour of Avlona. On we went still, till at length there appeared the
land of the Phoeacians, "like a shield upon the sea;" but there was
a cloud over it which portended ill. It advanced towards us, and
extended rapidly. It was soon evident to the most sanguine that the
wind was changing, and there was shortly no mistake about the matter.
I implored our skipper to keep on, though he tacked to the coast of
Apulia; but he knew his trade too well--the trade of a trabacolo
consisting in never losing sight of shore. So we were obliged to put
in to Avlona harbour, deeply lamenting. Two days were spent here, not
daring to land for fear of putting ourselves in quarantine. Above the
town rises the fortress of Canina, but all wears a ruined appearance.
The people of the neighbourhood, called Chimariots, have the worst
reputation of all the Albanians. The coast of Albania between this and
Corfu has a very barren and inhospitable appearance. The snowy peaks
of the Pindus rise directly from the sea. A few bushes were visible on
the mountains, but timber of any size is scarce. Villages and houses
are seldom seen. A glad contrast was presented when, on the tenth day
of our voyage, we approached the beautiful shores of Corfu; and it was
no small comfort, after so long an imprisonment in this little tub,
with holes to creep in about the size of a dog-kennel, and in the
roughest possible weather, to find ourselves in one of the most
comfortable hotels in Europe, and surrounded by old friends.
Since my visit to Montenegro, the Vladika went to Vienna--I believe to
gain the mediation of Austria concerning the disputed territory of
Lessandro. After his return I understand he was visited by Lord
Clarence Paget, commanding her Majesty's frigate L'Aigle, who had been
sent to gain some information regarding his territory; so that,
perhaps, a more accurate account may be obtained than what is to be
found in these rough notes.
AESTHETICS OF DRESS.
A CASE OF HATS.
Of all the follies that can be fairly placed to the charge of the
human race--and, Heaven knows, they are thick as gnats in a summer
sunbeam--none can be laid at more people's doors than the fickleness
and vagaries of the judgment in adorning, to say nothing of covering,
man's outer scaffolding--the body. And the worst of it is, that this
folly-cap fits all men, from the Red Indian of America to the
sallow-faced, eye-slitted Chinese; and through all the robed pomp of
the solemn Turk to the chattering and capering monkeyism of the
Parisian exquisite--there are fops every where. As Mr Catlin will tell
you, one of his lanky Ojibbeway, or Ioway, or Cutaway, or
Anyotherkindo'way Indians varies the feathers in his head-dress, and
sticks new tinsel on his buffalo-mantle, whenever he can get them;
spending as much time in be-painting his cheeks on a summer morning,
as Beau Brummell, of departed memory, ever wasted in tying his cravat.
And so it has ever been--so it will ever be; man is not only a
two-legged unfledged animal, but he is also a vain imitative ape, fond
of his own dear visage, blind to his deformities, and ever desirous of
setting himself off to the best advantage. It is of no use quarrelling
with ourselves for this physiological fact--for we presume it to be
one of the best ascertained phenomena connected with the genus
_homo_--it is better to take it as we find it; and if we cannot hope
to cure man of the absurdity any time this side of the millennium, let
us try if we cannot turn the failing to some account, and make it
useful as well as ornamental.
The chief quarrel to be picked with man for his dressing propensities,
is on the ground that he not only hides and disfigures the fair
proportions bestowed on him by his Maker, but that he ever and anon
loads himself with such masses of useless incongruities, that the very
end and object of his care are stultified. Instead of making himself
smart, pretty, becoming, beautiful--or any other word that you can
find in the dandy's dictionary--he frequently succeeds in making
himself positively ugly--frightful, in the pure abstract sense of the
term--or detestable, in the lingo of the Stultzean tribe--and
relapses, as a Frenchman would say, from civism to brutism: _Ah! quel
animal que l'homme!_
But let it not be supposed that we speak of man only, as applied to
that great branch of the species designated by the most experienced
naturalists as _homo vir_; it is quite as true of the other moiety,
the _homo femina_. If it be possible that a woman should ever be made
frightful by any thing except age, then it is surely by dress; if a
woman never does a foolish thing in any other way, yet at least she
errs in her habiliments; if she be fickle at all, (and speak to the
fact, ye disappointed bachelors and ye complaisant husbands!) in what
is she more fickle than in dress? We might waste a life in finding a
suitable simile for her volatility in this matter: rainbows with
changing colours, water on a windy day, the wind itself in the month
of March, the much-desiderated perpetual motion; all are feeble
similes to describe a woman's fickleness in dress. Shall we liken it
to her tongue's untiring play? or shall we not rather say that it is a
psychological fact standing _per se_? the concomitant effect and
consequence of her beauty? But, dear creatures! we are not going to
quarrel with them for what gives us so much unconscious pleasure, (we
do not mean milliners' bills, gentle reader;) we glory in living under
a petticoat government, and in essentially petticoatian times. All we
shall do is to give a word of advice; and in trying on their caps for
them, we will show them the _rationale_ of their bows and their lace,
if they will only have the patience to sit still for the experiment.
Before embarking on such an important project, allow us to say that we
are not going to quiz old Whang-Fong for his pig-tail and peacock
feathers, nor his Cannibalean majesty for his obstinate refusal to
wear a decent pair of inexpressibles; it is a stiff subject to meddle
with the dressing propensities of people that live "in many a place
that's underneath the world." For all we care, Abd el Kader and his
Arabs may stifle themselves up in their greasy blankets swarming with
ancestral vermin under a nearly tropical sun; and the good people of
Igloolik may bedeck themselves with the spoils of fish, flesh, and
fowl, to set the fashions of the Arctic circle. We are going to speak
merely of our home acquaintances and our European friends; if these
only would be reasonable in their dress, what a new thing it would be
in the world--_quel progres! quel evenement!_