indubitable evidence that the natives were eaters of human flesh. The
proofs of this fact had a most powerful influence on the mind of
Oedidee, a youth of Bolabola, whom Captain Cook had brought in the
Resolution from Ulietea. He was so affected, that he became perfectly
motionless, and exhibited such a picture of horror, that it would have
been impossible for art to describe that passion with half the force
with which it appeared in his countenance. When he was roused from
this state by some of the English, he burst into tears; continued to
weep and scold by turns; told the New Zealanders that they were vile
men; and assured them, that he would not be any longer their friend.
He would not so much as permit them to come near him; and he refused
to accept or even to touch, the knife by which some human flesh had
been cut off. Such was Oedidee's indignation against the abominable
custom; and our commander has justly remarked, that it was an
indignation worthy to be imitated by every rational being. The conduct
of this young man, upon the present occasion, strongly points out the
difference which had taken place, in the progress of civilization,
between the inhabitants of the Society islands and those of New
Zealand. It was our commander's firm opinion, that the only human
flesh which was eaten by these people was that of their enemies, who
had been slain in battle.
During the stay of our voyagers in Queen Charlotte's Sound, they were
plentifully supplied with fish, procured from the natives at a very
easy rate; and, besides the vegetables afforded by their own gardens,
they every where found plenty of scurvy-grass and celery. These
Captain Cook ordered to be dressed every day for all his hands. By the
attention which he paid to his men in the article of provisions, they
had for three months lived principally on a fresh diet, and, at this
time, there was not a sick or corbutic person on board.
The morning before the captain sailed, he wrote a memorandum,
containing such information as he thought necessary for Captain
Furneaux, in case he should put into the sound. This memorandum was
buried in a bottle under the root of a tree in the garden; and in such
a manner, that it could not avoid being discovered, if either Captain
Furneaux, or any other European, should chance to arrive at the cove.
Our commander did not leave New Zealand without making such remarks on
the coast between Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Palliser as may be of
service to future navigators. It being now the unanimous opinion that
the Adventure was no where upon the island, Captain Cook gave up all
expectations of seeing her any more during the voyage. This
circumstance, however, did not discourage him from fully exploring the
southern parts of the Pacific ocean, in the doing of which he intended
to employ the whole of the ensuing season. When he quitted the coast,
he had the satisfaction to find that not a man of the crew was
dejected, or thought that the dangers, they had yet to go through,
were to the least augmented by their being alone. Such was the
confidence they placed in their commander, that they were as ready to
proceed cheerfully to the south, or wherever he might lead them, as if
the Adventure, or even a larger number of ships had been in company.
On the 26th of November, Captain Cook sailed from New Zealand in
search of a continent, and steered to the south, inclining to the
east. Some days after this, our navigators reckoned themselves to be
antipodes to their friends in London, and consequently were at as
great a distance from them as possible. The first ice island was seen
on the 12th of December, farther south than the first ice which had
been met with after leaving the Cape of Good Hope in the preceding
year. In the progress of the voyage, ice islands continually occurred,
and the navigation became more and more difficult and dangerous. When
our people were in the latitude of 67° 5' south, they all at once got
within such a cluster of these islands, together with a large quantity
of loose pieces, that to keep clear of them was a matter of the utmost
difficulty. On the 22nd of the month, the Resolution was in the
highest latitude she had yet reached; and circumstances now became so
unfavourable, that our commander thought of returning more to the
north. Here there was no probability of finding any land, or a
possibility of getting farther south. To have proceeded, therefore, to
the east in this latitude, must have been improper, not only on
account of the ice, but because a vast space of sea to the north must
have been left unexplored, in which there might lie a large tract of
country. It was only by visiting those parts, that it could be
determined whether such a supposition was well founded. As our
navigators advanced to the north-east on the 24th, the ice islands
increased so fast upon them, that, at noon, they could see nearly a
hundred around them, besides an immense number of small pieces. In
this situation they spent Christmas-day, much in the same manner as
they had done in the former year. Happily our people had continual
day-light, and clear weather for had it been as foggy as it was on
some preceding days, nothing less than a miracle could have saved them
from being dashed to pieces.
While the Resolution was in the high latitudes many of her company
were attacked with a slight fever, occasioned by colds. The disorder,
however, yielded to the simplest remedies, and was generally removed
in a few days. On the 5th of January, 1774, the ship not being then in
much more than fifty degrees of latitude, there were only one or two
persons on the sick list.
After Captain Cook, agreeably to his late resolution, had traversed a
large extent of ocean, without discovering land, he again directed his
course to the southward. By the 30th of the month, through
obstructions and difficulties, which, from their similar nature to
those already mentioned, it would be tedious to repeat, he reached to
the seventy-first degree of latitude. Thus far had he gone: but to
have proceeded farther would have been the height of folly and
madness. It would have been exposing himself, his men, and his ship to
the utmost danger, and perhaps to destruction, without the least
prospect of advantage. The captain was of opinion, as indeed were most
of the gentlemen on board, that the ice now in sight extended quite to
the pole, or might join to some land, to which it might be fixed from
the earliest time. If, however, there be such land, it can afford no
better retreat for birds, or any other animals, than the ice itself,
with which it must be wholly covered. Though our commander had not
only the ambition of going farther than any one had done before, but
of proceeding as far as it was possible for man to go, he was the less
dissatisfied with the interruption he now met with, as it shortened
the dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation of the
southern polar regions. In fact he was impelled by inevitable
necessity to tack, and stand back to the north.
The determination which Captain Cook now formed was to spend the
ensuing winter within the tropic, if he met with no employment before
he came there. He was well satisfied, that no continent was to be
found in this ocean, but what must lie so far to the south, as to be
wholly inaccessible on account of ice. If there existed a continent in
the southern Atlantic Ocean, he was sensible that he could not explore
it, without having the whole summer before them. Upon a supposition,
on the other hand, that there is no land there he might undoubtedly
have reached the Cape of Good Hope by April. In that case, he would
have put an end to the finding of a continent; which was indeed the
first object of the voyage. But this could not satisfy the extensive
and magnanimous mind of our commander. He had a good ship, expressly
sent out on discoveries, a healthy crew, and was not in want either of
stores or of provisions. In such circumstances, to have quitted this
Southern Pacific Ocean, would, he thought, have been betraying not
only a want of perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing it to have
been so well explored, that nothing farther could be done. Although he
had proved that there was no continent but what must lie far to the
south, there remained, nevertheless, room for very large islands in
places wholly unexamined. Many, likewise, of those which had formerly
been discovered had been but imperfectly explored, and their
situations were as imperfectly known. He was also pursuaded, that his
continuing some time longer in this sea would be productive of
improvements in navigation and geography, as well as in other
sciences.
In consequence of these views, it was Captain Cook's intention first
to go in search of the land said to have been discovered by Juan
Fernandez, in the last century. If he should fail in finding this
land, he proposed to direct his course in quest of Easter Island or
Davis's Land, the situation of which was known with so little
certainty, that none of the attempts lately made for its discovery had
been successful. He next intended to get within the tropic, and then
to proceed to the west, touching at, and settling the situations of
such islands, as he might meet with till he arrived at Otaheite, where
it was necessary for him to stop, to look for the Adventure. It was
also in his contemplation to run as far west as the Tierra Austral del
Espiritu Santo, which was discovered by Quiros, and to which M. de
Bougainville has given the name of the Great Cyclades. From this land,
it was the captain's plan to steer to the south, and so back to the
east, between the latitudes of fifty and sixty. In the execution of
this plan, it was his purpose, if possible, to attain the length of
Cape Horn in the ensuing November, when he should have the best part
of the summer before him, to explore the southern part of the Atlantic
Ocean. Great as was this design, our commander thought it capable of
being carried into execution; and when he communicated it to his
officers, he had the satisfaction of finding that it received their
zealous and cheerful concurrence. They displayed the utmost readiness
for executing, in the most effectual manner, every measure he thought
proper to adopt. With such good examples to direct them, the seamen
were always obedient and alert; and on the present occasion, so far
were they from wishing the voyage to be concluded, that they rejoiced
at the prospect of its being prolonged another year, and of soon
enjoying the benefits of a milder climate.
In pursuing his course to the north, Captain Cook became well assured,
that the discovery of Juan Fernandez, if any such was ever made, could
be nothing more than a small island. At this time, the captain was
attacked by a bilious colic, the violence of which confined him to his
bed. The management of the ship, upon this occasion, was left to Mr.
Cooper, the first officer, who conducted her entirely to his
commander's satisfaction. It was several days before the most
dangerous symptoms of Captain Cook's disorder were removed; during
which time, Mr. Patten the surgeon, in attending upon him, manifested
not only the skilfulness of a physician, but the tenderness of a
nurse. When the captain began to recover, a favourite dog, belonging
to Mr. Forster, fell a sacrifice to his tender stomach. There was no
other fresh meat whatever on board, and he could eat not only of the
broth which was made of it, but of the flesh itself, when there was
nothing else that he was capable of tasting. Thus did he derive
nourishment and strength from food, which to most people in Europe,
would have been in the highest degree disgusting, and productive of
sickness. The necessity of the case overcame every feeling of dislike.
On the 11th of March, our navigators came within sight of Easter
Island, or Davis's Land; their transactions at which place were of too
little moment to deserve a particular recital. The inhabitants are, in
general, a slender race. In colour, features, and language, they bear
such an affinity to the people of the more western isles, that there
can be no doubt of their having been descended from one common
original. It is indeed extraordinary, that the same nation should have
spread themselves to so wide an extent, as to take in almost a fourth
part of the circumference of the globe. With regard to the disposition
of the natives of Easter Island, it is friendly and hospitable; but
they are as much addicted to stealing, as any of their neighbours. The
island itself hath so little to recommend it, that no nation need to
contend for the honour of its discovery. So sparing has nature been of
her favours to this spot, that there is in it no safe anchorage, no
wood for fuel, no fresh water worth taking on board. The most
remarkable objects in the country are some surprising gigantic
statues, which were first seen by Roggewein.
It was with pleasure that our commander quitted a place, which could
afford such slender accommodations to voyagers, and directed his
course for the Marquesas Islands. He had not been long at sea, before
he was again attacked by his bilious disorder. The attack, however,
was not so violent as the former one had been. He had reason to
believe, that the return of his disease was owing to his having
exposed and fatigued himself too much at Easter Island.
On the 6th and 7th of April, our navigators came within sight of four
islands, which they knew to be the Marquesas. To one of them, which
was a new discovery, Captain Cook gave the name of Hood's Island,
after that of the young gentleman by whom it was first seen. As soon
as the ship was brought to an anchor in Madre de Dios, or Resolution
Bay, in the Island of St. Christina, a traffic commenced, in the
course of which the natives would frequently keep our goods, without
making any return. At last the captain was obliged to fire a
musket-ball over one man, who had several times treated the English in
this manner. This produced only a temporary effect. Too many of the
Indians having come on board, our commander, who was going into a boat
to find a convenient place for mooring the ship, said to the officers,
"You must look well after these people or they will certainly carry
off something or other." Scarcely had he gotten into the boat, when he
was informed, that they had stolen an iron stanchion from the opposite
gangway, and were carrying it off. Upon this he ordered his men to
fire over the canoe, till he could get round in the boat, but not to
kill any one. Such, however, was the noise made by the natives, that
the order was not heard; and the unhappy thief was killed at the first
shot. All the Indians having retired with precipitation, in
consequence of this unfortunate accident, Captain Cook followed them
into the bay, prevailed upon some of them to come alongside his boat,
and, by suitable presents, so far conciliated their minds, that their
fears seemed to be in a great measure allayed. The death of their
countryman did not cure them of their thievish disposition; but, at
length, it was somewhat restrained by their conviction, that no
distance secured them from the reach of our muskets. Several smaller
instances of their talent at stealing, the captain thought proper to
overlook.
The provisions obtained at St. Christina were yams, plantains,
breadfruit, a few cocoa-nuts, fowls, and small pigs. For a time, the
trade was carried on upon reasonable terms: but the market was at last
ruined by the indiscretion of some young gentlemen, who gave away in
exchange various articles which the inhabitants had not seen before,
and which captivated their fancy above nails, or more useful iron
tools. One of the gentleman had given for a pig a very large quantity
of red feathers, which he had gotten at Amsterdam. The effect of this
was particularly fatal. It was not possible to support the trade, in
the manner in which it was now begun, even for a single day. When,
therefore, our commander found that he was not likely to be supplied,
on any conditions, with sufficient refreshments, and that the island
was neither very convenient for taking in wood and water, nor for
affording the necessary repairs of the ship, he determined to proceed
immediately to some other place, where the wants of his people could
be effectually relieved. After having been nineteen weeks at sea, and
having lived all that time upon salt diet, a change in their food
could not avoid being peculiarly desirable: and yet, on their arrival
at St. Christina, it could scarcely be asserted that a single man was
sick; and there were but a few who had the least complaint of any
kind. 'This,' says Captain Cook, 'was undoubtedly owing to the many
antiscorbutic articles we had on board, and to the great attention of
the surgeon, who was remarkably careful to apply them in time.' It may
justly be added, that this was likewise owing to the singular care of
the captain himself, and to the exertions of his authority, in
enforcing the excellent regulations which his wisdom and humanity had
adopted.
The chief reason for our commander's touching at the Marquesas
Islands, was to fix their situation; that being the only circumstance
in which the nautical account of them, given in Mr. Dalrymple's
collection, is deficient. It was farther desirable to settle this
point, as it would lead to a more accurate knowledge of Mendana's
other discoveries. Accordingly, Captain Cook has marked the situation
of the Marquesas with his usual correctness. He has also taken care to
describe the particular cove in Resolution Bay, in the island of St.
Christina, which is most convenient for obtaining wood and water.
It is remarkable, with respect to the inhabitants of the Marquesas
Islands, that collectively taken, they are, without exception the
finest race of people in this sea. Perhaps they surpass all other
nations in symmetry of form, and regularity of features. It is plain,
however, from the affinity of their language to that of Otaheite and
the Society Isles, that they are of the same origin. Of this affinity
the English were fully sensible, though they could not converse with
them; but Oedidee was capable of doing it tolerably well.
From the Marquesas, Captain Cook steered for Otaheite, with a view of
falling in with some of the islands discovered by former navigators,
and especially by the Dutch, the situation of which had not been
accurately determined. In the course of the voyage, he passed a number
of low islots, connected together by reefs of coral rocks. One of the
islands, on which Lieutenant Cooper went on shore, with two boats well
armed, was called by the natives Tiookea. It had been discovered and
visited by Captain Byron. The inhabitants of Tiookea are of a much
darker colour than those of the higher islands, and appeared to be
more fierce in their dispositions. This may be owing to their manner
of gaining their subsistence, which is chiefly from the sea, and to
their being much exposed to the sun and the weather. Our voyagers
observed, that they were stout well-made men, and that they had marked
on their bodies the figure of a fish, which was a good emblem of their
profession.
Besides passing by St. George's Islands, which had been so named by
Captain Byron, our commander made the discovery of four others. These
he called Palliser's Isles, in honour of his particular friend, Sir
Hugh Palliser. The inhabitants seemed to be the same sort of people as
those of Tiookea, and, like them, were armed with long pikes. Captain
Cook could not determine with any degree of certainty, whether the
group of isles he had lately seen, were, or were not, any of those
that had been discovered by the Dutch navigators. This was owing to
the neglect of recording, with sufficient accuracy, the situation of
their discoveries. Our commander, hath, in general, observed with
regard to this part of the ocean, that, from the latitude of twenty
down to fourteen or twelve, and from the meridian of a hundred and
thirty-eight to a hundred and forty-eight or a hundred and fifty west,
it is so strewed with low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with
too much caution.
On the 22nd of April, Captain Cook reached the Island of Otaheite, and
anchored in Matavia Bay. As his chief reason for putting in at this
place was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity of ascertaining the error
Of the watch by the known longitude, and to determine anew her rate of
going, the first object was to land the instruments, and to erect
tents for the reception of a guard, and such other people, as it was
necessary to have on shore. Sick there were none; for the refreshments
which had been obtained at the Marquesas had removed every complaint
of that kind.
From the quantity of provisions, which, contrary to expectation, our
commander now found at Otaheite, he determined to make a longer stay
in the island than he had at first intended. Accordingly, he took
measures for the repairs of the ship, which the high southern
latitudes had rendered indispensably necessary.
During Captain Cook's stay at Otaheite, he maintained a most friendly
connexion with the inhabitants; and a continual interchange of visits
was preserved between him and Otoo, Towha, and other chiefs of the
country. His traffic with them was greatly facilitated by his having
fortunately brought with him some red parrot feathers from the island
of Amsterdam. These were jewels of high value in the eyes of the
Otaheitans. The captain's stock in trade was by this time greatly
exhausted; so that, if it had not been for the feathers, he would have
found it difficult to have supplied the ship with the necessary
refreshments.
Among other entertainments which our commander and the rest of the
English gentlemen met with at Otaheite, one was a grand naval review.
The vessels of war consisted of a hundred and sixty large double
canoes, well equipped, manned, and armed. They were decorated with
flags and streamers; and the chiefs, together with all those who were
on the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits. The whole
fleet made a noble appearance; such as our voyagers had never seen
before in this sea, or could ever have expected. Besides the vessels
of war, there were a hundred and seventy sail of smaller double
canoes, which seemed to be designed for transports and victuallers.
Upon each of them was a little house; and they were rigged with mast
and sail, which was not the case with the war canoes. Captain Cook
guessed, that there were no less than seven thousand seven hundred and
sixty men in the whole fleet. He was not able to obtain full
information concerning the design of this armament.
Notwithstanding the agreeable intercourse that was, in general,
maintained between our commander and the people of Otaheite,
circumstances occasionally happened, which called for peculiar
exertions of his prudence and resolution. One of the natives, who had
attempted to steal a water-cask from the watering-place, was caught in
the fact, sent on board, and put in irons. In this situation, he was
seen by King Otoo, and other chiefs. Captain Cook having made known to
them the crime of their countryman, Otoo entreated that he might be
set at liberty. This the captain however refused, alleging, that since
he punished his own people, when they committed the least offence
against Otoo's, it was but just that this man should also be punished.
As Captain Cook knew that Otoo would not punish him, he resolved to do
it himself. Accordingly, he directed the criminal to be carried on
shore to the tents, and having himself followed, with the chiefs and
other Otaheitans, he ordered the guard out, under arms, and commanded
the man to be tied up to a post. Otoo again solicited the culprit's
release, and in this he was seconded by his sister, but in vain. The
captain expostulated with him on the conduct of the man, and of the
Indians in general; telling him, that neither he nor any of the ship's
company, took the smallest matter of property from them without first
paying for it; enumerating the articles which the English had given in
exchange for such and such things; and urging, that it was wrong in
them to steal from those who were their friends. He added, that the
punishing of the guilty person would be the means of saving the lives
of several of Otoo's people, by deterring them from committing crimes
of the like nature, and thus preventing them from the danger of being
shot to death, which would certainly happen, at one time or other, if
they persisted in their robberies. With these arguments the king
appeared to be satisfied, and only desired that the man might not be
killed. Captain Cook then directed, that the crowd, which was very
great, should be kept at a proper distance, and, in the presence of
them all, ordered the fellow two dozen of lashes with a
cat-o'-nine-tails. This punishment the man sustained with great
firmness, after which he was set at liberty. When the natives were
going away, Towha called them back, and, with much gracefulness of
action, addressed them in a speech of nearly half an hour in length,
the design of which was to condemn their present conduct, and to
recommend a different one for the future. To make a farther impression
upon the minds of the inhabitants, our commander ordered his marines
to go through their exercises, and to load and fire in volleys with
ball. As they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is more easy to
conceive than to describe the amazement which possessed the Indians
during the whole time, and especially those of them who had not seen
any thing of the kind before.
The judicious will discern, with regard to this narrative, that it
throws peculiar light on Captain Cook's character. Nor is it an
uncurious circumstance in the history of human society, that a
stranger should thus exercise jurisdiction over the natives of a
country, in the presence of the prince of that country, without his
authority, and even contrary to his solicitations.
Another disagreeable altercation with the inhabitants of Otaheite
arose from the negligence of one of the English sentinels on shore.
Having either slept or quitted his post, an Indian seized the
opportunity of carrying off his musket. When any extraordinary theft
was committed, it immediately excited such an alarm among the natives
in general, from their fear of Captain Cook's resentment, that they
fled from their habitations, and a stop was put to the traffic for
provisions. On the present occasion, the captain had no small degree
of trouble; but, by his prudent conduct, the musket was recovered,
peace restored, and commerce again opened. In the differences which
happened with the several people he met with in his voyages, it was a
rule with him, never to touch the least article of their property, any
farther than to detain their canoes for a while, when it became
absolutely necessary. He always chose the most mild and equitable
methods of bringing them to reason; and in this he not only succeeded,
but frequently put things upon a better footing than if no contention
had taken place.
During this visit to Otaheite, fruit and other refreshments were
obtained in great plenty. The relief arising from them was the more
agreeable and salutary, as the bread of the ship was in a bad
condition. Though the biscuit had been aired and picked at New
Zealand, it was now in such a state of decay, that it was necessary
for it to undergo another airing and cleaning, in which much of it was
found wholly rotten, and unfit to be eaten. This decay was judged to
be owing to the ice our navigators had frequently taken in, when to
the southward, which made the hold of the vessel cold and damp, and to
the great heat that succeeded when they came to the north. Whatever
was the cause, the loss was so considerable, that the men were put to
a scanty allowance in this article, with the additional mortification,
of the bread's being bad as could be used.
Two goats, that had been given by Captain Furneaux to Otoo, in the
former part of the voyage, seemed to promise fair for answering the
purposes for which they were left upon the island. The ewe, soon
after, had two female kids, which were now so far grown as to be
almost ready to propagate. At the same time, the old ewe was again
with kid. The people were very fond of them, and they were in
excellent condition. From these circumstances, Captain cook
entertained a hope, that, in a course of years they would multiply so
much, as to be extended over all the isles of the Southern Ocean. The
like success did not attend the sheep which had been left in the
country. These speedily died, one excepted, which was said to be yet
alive. Our navigators also furnished the natives with cats, having
given away no less than twenty at Otaheite, besides some which had
been made presents of at Ulietea and Huaheine.
With regard to the number of the inhabitants of Otaheite, our
commander collected, from comparing several facts together, that,
including women and children, there could not be less, in the whole
island, than two hundred and four thousand. This number, at first
sight, exceeded his belief. But when he came to reflect on the vast
swarms of people that appeared whereever he went, he was convinced,
that the estimate was agreeable to truth.
Such was the friendly treatment which our voyagers met with at
Otaheite, that one of the gunner's mates was induced to form a plan
for remaining in the country. As he knew that he could not execute his
scheme with success, while the Resolution continued in Matavai Bay, he
took the opportunity, when she was ready to quit it, and the sails
were set for the purpose, to slip overboard. Being a good swimmer, he
had no doubt of getting safe to a canoe, which was at some distance
ready to receive him; for his design was concerted with the natives,
and had even been encouraged by Otoo. However, he was discovered
before he had gotten clear of the ship, and a boat being presently
hoisted out, he was taken up, and brought back to the vessel. When our
commander reflected on this man's situation, he did not think him very
culpable, or his desire of staying in the island so extraordinary, as
might at first view be imagined. He was a native of Ireland, and had
sailed in the Dutch service. Captain Cook, on his return from his
former voyage, had picked him up at Batavia, and had kept him in his
employment ever since. It did not appear, that he had either friends
or connexions, which could bind him to any particular part of the
world. All nations being alike to him, where could he be more happy
than at Otaheite? Here, in one of the finest climates of the globe, he
could enjoy not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, in
ease and plenty. The captain seems to think, that if the man had
applied to him in time, he might have given his consent to his
remaining in the country.
On the 15th of May, Captain Cook anchored in O'Wharre Harbour, in the
island of Huaheine. He was immediately visited by his friend Oree, and
the same agreeable intercourse subsisted between the captain and this
good old chief, which had formerly taken place. Red feathers were not
here in such estimation as they had been at Otaheite; the natives of
Huaheine having the good sense to give a preference to the more useful
articles of nails and axes. During the stay of our voyagers in the
island, some alarms were occasioned by the thievish disposition of
several of the inhabitants; but matters subsided without any material
consequences. A solemn march, which our commander made through part of
the country, at the head of forty-eight men, tended to impress the
Indians with a sense of his power and authority. In fact, their
attempts at stealing had been too much invited by the indiscretion of
some of the English, who unguardedly separated themselves in the
woods, for the purpose of killing birds; and who managed their muskets
so unskillfully, as to render them less formidable in the eyes of the
natives.
I cannot persuade myself to omit a dramatic entertainment, at which
several of the gentlemen belonging to the Resolution attended one
evening. The piece represented a girl as running away with our
navigators from Otaheite; and the story was partly founded in truth;
for a young woman had taken a passage in the ship, down to Ulietea.
She happened to be present at the representation of her own
adventures; which had such an effect upon her, that it was with great
difficulty that she could be prevailed upon by the English gentlemen
to see the play out, or to refrain from tears while it was acting. The
piece concluded with the reception which she was supposed to meet with
from her friends at her return; and it was a reception that was by no
means favourable. As these people, when they see occasion, can add
little extempore pieces to their entertainments, it is reasonable to
imagine, that the representation now described was intended as a
satire against the girl, and to discourage others from following her
steps. Such is the sense which they entertain of the propriety of
female decorum.
During Captain Cook's stay at Huaheine, breadfruit, cocoa-nuts, and
other vegetable productions, were procured in abundance, but not a
sufficiency of hogs to supply the daily expense of the ship. This was
partly owing to a want of proper articles for traffic. The captain was
obliged, therefore, to set the smiths at work to make different sorts
of nails, iron tools, and instruments, in order to enable him to
obtain refreshments at the islands he was yet to visit, and to support
his credit and influence among the natives.
When our commander was ready to sail from Huaheine, Oree was the last
man that went out of the vessel. At parting, Captain Cook told him,
that they should meet each other no more; at which he wept and said,
'Let your sons come, we will treat them well.'
At Ulietea, to which the captain next directed his course, the events
that occurred were nearly similar to those which have already been
related. He had always been received by the people of this island in
the most hospitable manner, and they were justly entitled to every
thing which it was in his power to grant. They expressed the deepest
concern at his departure, and were continually importuning him to
return. Oree the chief, and his wife and daughter, but especially the
two latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping. Their grief was so
excessive, that it might, perhaps, be doubted whether it was entirely
sincere and unaffected; but our commander was of opinion that it was
real. At length, when he was ready to sail, they took a most
affectionate leave. Oree's last request to Captain Cook was, that he
would return; and when he could not obtain a promise to that effect,
he asked the name of his burying-place. To this strange question the
captain answered, without hesitation, that it was Stepney; that being
the parish in which he lived when in London. Mr. Forster, to whom the
same question was proposed, replied with greater wisdom and
recollection, that no man, who used the sea, could say where he should
be buried.
As our commander could not promise, or even then suppose, that more
English ships would be sent to the southern isles, Oedidee, who for so
many months had been the faithful companion of our navigators, chose
to remain in his native country. But he left them with a regret fully
demonstrative of his esteem and affection, nor could any thing have
torn him from them, but the fear of never returning. When Oree pressed
so ardently Captain Cook's return, he sometimes gave such answers, as
left room for hope. At these answers Oedidee would eagerly catch, take
him on one side, and ask him over again. The captain declares, that he
had not words to describe the anguish which appeared in this young
man's breast, when he went away. He looked up at the ship, burst into
tears, and then sunk down into the canoe. Oedidee was a youth of good
parts, and of a docile, gentle, and humane disposition; but as he was
almost wholly ignorant of the religion, government, manners, customs,
and traditions of his countrymen, and the neighbouring islands, no
material knowledge could have been collected from him, had our
commander brought him away. He would, however, in every respect, have
been a better specimen of the nation than Omai.
When Captain Cook first came to these islands, he had some thoughts of
visiting Tupia's famous Bolabola. But having obtained a plentiful
supply of refreshments, and the route he had in view allowing him no
time to spare, he laid this design aside, and directed his course to
the west. Thus did he take his leave, as he then thought, for ever, of
these happy isles, on which benevolent nature has spread her luxuriant
sweets with a lavish hand; and in which the natives, copying the
bounty of Providence, are equally liberal; being ready to contribute
plentifully and cheerfully to the wants of navigators.[8]
[Footnote 8: From Mr. Wales's observations it appeared, that
during five mouths, in which the watch had passed through the
extremes of heat and cold, it went better in the cold than in the
hot climates.]
On the 6th of June, the day after our voyagers left Ulietea, they saw
land, which they found to be a low reef island, about four leagues in
compass, and of a circular form. This was Howe Island, which had been
discovered by Captain Wallis. Nothing remarkable occurred from tills
day to the 16th, when land was again seen. It was another reef island;
and being a new discovery, Captain Cook gave it the name of Palmerston
Island, in honour to Lord Palmerston. On the 20th, fresh land
appeared, which was perceived to be inhabited. This induced our
commander to go on shore with a party of gentlemen; but the natives
were found to be fierce and untractable. All endeavours to bring them
to a parley were to no purpose; for they came on with the ferocity of
wild boars, and instantly threw their darts. Two or three muskets
discharged in the air, did not prevent one of them from advancing
still farther, and throwing another dart, or rather a spear, which
passed close over Captain Cook's shoulder. The courage of this man had
nearly cost him his life. When he threw his spear, he was not five
paces from the captain, who had resolved to shoot him for his own
preservation. It happened, however, that his musket missed fire; a
circumstance on which he afterward reflected with pleasure. When he
joined his party, and tried his musket in the air, it went off
perfectly well. This island, from the disposition and behaviour of the
natives, with whom no intercourse could be established, and from whom
no benefit could be received, was called by our commander Savage
Island. It is about eleven leagues in circuit; is of a round form and
good height: and has deep waters close to its shores. Among its other
disadvantages, it is not furnished with a harbour.
In pursuing his course to the west-south-west, Captain Cook passed by
a number of small islands, and, on the 26th, anchored on the north
side of Anamocka, or Rotterdam. A traffic immediately commenced with
the natives, who brought what provisions they had, being chiefly yams
and shaddocks, which they exchanged for nails, beads, and other small
articles. Here, as in many former cases, the captain was put to some
trouble, on account of the thievish disposition of the inhabitants. As
they had gotten possession of an adze and two muskets, he found it
necessary to exert himself with peculiar vigour, in order to oblige
them to make a restitution. For this purpose, he commanded all the
marines to be armed, and sent on shore; and the result of this measure
was, that the things which had been stolen were restored. In the
contest, Captain Cook was under the necessity of firing some small
shot at a native, who had distinguished himself by his resistance. His
countrymen afterward reported that he was dead; but he was only
wounded, and that not in a dangerous manner. Though his sufferings
were the effects of his own misbehaviour the captain endeavoured to
soften them by making him a present, and directing his wounds to be
dressed by the surgeon of the ship.
The first time that our commander landed at Anamocka, an old lady
presented him with a girl, and gave him to understand that she was at
his service. Miss, who had previously been instructed, wanted a
spikenail or a shirt, neither of which he had to give her; and he
flattered himself, that by making the two women sensible of his
poverty, he should easily get clear of their importunities. In this,
however, he was mistaken. The favours of the young lady were offered
upon credit; and on his declining the proposal, the old woman began to
argue with him, and then to abuse him. As far as he could collect from
her countenance and her actions, the design of her speech was both to
ridicule and reproach him, for refusing to entertain so fine a young
woman. Indeed the girl was by no means destitute of beauty; but
Captain Cook found it more easy to withstand her allurements than the
abuses of the ancient matron, and therefore hastened into his boat.
While the captain was on shore at Anamocka, he got the names of twenty
islands, which lie between the north-west and north-east. Some of them
were in sight; and two of them, which are most to the west, are
remarkable on account of their great height. These are Amattafoa and
Oghao. From a continual column of smoke which was seen daily ascending
from the middle of Amattafoa, it was judged that there was a volcano
in that island.
Anamocka was first discovered by Tasman, and by him was named
Rotterdam. It is of a triangular form, and each side extends about
three and a half or four miles. From the north-west to the south of
the island, round by the east and north, it is encompassed by a number
of small isles, sand-banks, and breakers. An end could not be seen to
their extent to the north, and they may possibly reach as far to the
south as Amsterdam or Tongataboo. Together with Middleburg, or Eaoowe,
and Pilsart, these form a group, containing about three degrees of
latitude, and two of longitude. To this group Captain Cook had given
the name of the Friendly Isles, or Archipelago, from the firm alliance
and friendship which seemed to subsist among their inhabitants, and
from their courteous behaviour to strangers. The same group may
perhaps be extended much farther, even down to Boscawen and Keppel's
Isles, which were discovered by Captain Wallis, and lie nearly in the
same meridian.
Whilst our commander was at Anamocka, he was particularly assiduous to
prevent the introduction of a certain disorder. As some of his people
brought with them the remains of this disease from the Society Isles,
he prohibited them from having any female intercourse, and he had
reason to believe that his endeavours were successful.
The productions of Rotterdam, and the persons, manners, and customs of
its inhabitants, are similar to those of Amsterdam. It is not, however
equally plentiful in its fruits, nor is every part of it in so high a
state of cultivation. Neither hath it arisen to the same degree of
wealth, with regard to cloth, matting, ornaments, and other articles
which constitute the chief riches of the islanders of the Southern
Ocean.
Pursuing their course to the west, our navigators discovered land on
the 1st of July; and, upon a nearer approach, found it to be a small
island, to which, on account of the number of turtle that were seen
upon the coast, Captain Cook gave the name of Turtle Isle. On the
16th, high land was seen bearing south-west, which no one doubted to
be the Australis del Espirito Santo of Quiros, and which is called by
M. de Bougainville the Great Cyclades. After exploring the coast for
some days, the captain came to an anchor, in a harbour in the island
of Mallicollo. One of his first objects was to commence a friendly
intercourse with the natives; but, while he was thus employed, an
accident occurred, which threw all into confusion, though in the end
it was rather advantageous than hurtful to the English. A fellow in a
canoe, having been refused admittance into one of our boats, bent his
bow to shoot a poisoned arrow at the boatkeeper. Some of his
countrymen having prevented his doing it that instant, time was given
to acquaint our commander with the transaction, who immediately ran
upon deck. At this minute, the Indian had directed his bow to the
boatkeeper; but upon being called to by Captain Cook, he pointed it at
him. Happily, the captain had a musket in his hand loaded with small
shot, and gave him the contents. By this however, he was only
staggered for a moment; for he still held his bow in the attitude of
shooting. A second discharge of the same nature made him drop it, and
obliged him, together with the other natives who were in the canoe, to
paddle off with all possible celerity. At this time, some of the
inhabitants began to shoot arrows from another quarter. A musket
discharged in the air had no effect upon them, but no sooner was a
four-pound ball shot over their heads than they fled in the utmost
confusion.
A few hours after these transactions, the English put off in two
boats, and landed in the face of four or five hundred people, who were
assembled on the shore and who, though they were all armed with bows
and arrows, clubs, and spears, made not the least opposition. On the
contrary, when they saw Captain Cook advance with nothing but a green
branch in his hand, one of them, who appeared to be a chief, giving
his bow and arrows to another, met the captain in the water, bearing
also a green branch. These being mutually exchanged in token of
friendship, the chief led our commander to the crowd, to whom he
immediately distributed presents. The marines, in the mean time, were
drawn up on the beach. Captain Cook then acquainted the Indians, by
signs, that he wanted wood; and in the same manner permission was
granted him to cut down the trees.
Much traffic could not be carried on with these people, because they
set no value on nails, or iron tools, or, indeed, on any articles
which our navigators could furnish. In such exchanges as they did
make, and which were principally of arrows for pieces of cloth, they
distinguished themselves by their honesty. When the ship had begun to
sail from the island, and they might easily, in consequence of their
canoes dropping astern, have avoided delivering the things they had
been paid for, they used their utmost efforts to get up with her, that
they might discharge their obligations. One man, in particular,
followed the Resolution, a considerable time, and did not reach her
till the object which brought him was forgotten. As soon as he came
alongside the vessel, he held up the thing which had been purchased;
and, though several of the crew offered to buy it, he insisted upon
delivering it to the person to whom it had been sold. That person, not
knowing him again, would have given something in return; but this he
refused, and shewed him what he had before received. There was only a
single instance in which the natives took, or even attempted to take,
any thing from our voyagers, by any means whatever; and in that case
restitution was immediately made, without trouble and without
altercation.
The inhabitants of Mallicollo, in general, are the most ugly and ill
proportioned people that Captain Cook had ever seen, and are in every
respect different from all the nations which had been met with in the
Southern Ocean. They are a very dark-coloured, and rather a diminutive
race, with long heads, flat faces, and countenances, which have some
resemblance to that of the monkey. Their hair, which is mostly
black or brown, is short and curly; but not altogether so soft and
woolly as that of a negro. The difference of this people from any whom
our commander had yet visited, appeared not only in their persons but
their language. Of about eighty words, which were collected by Mr.
Forster, scarcely one was found to bear any affinity to the language
spoken in any country or island hitherto described. It was observed by
Captain Cook, that the natives could pronounce most of the English
words with great ease. They had not so much as a name for a dog, and
knew nothing of that animal; for which reason the captain left them a
dog and a bitch; and as they were very fond of them, it was highly
probable that the breed would be fostered and increased.
To the harbour, in which our commander anchored, while he lay at
Mallicollo, he gave the name of Port Sandwich. It has many advantages,
with regard to depth of water, shelter from winds, and lying so near
the shore as to be a cover to those of a ship's company who may be
carrying on any necessary operations at land.
Soon after our navigators had gotten to sea, which was on the 23rd of
July, they discovered three or four small islands, that before had
appeared to be connected. At this time the Resolution was not far from
the Isle of Ambrym, the Isle of Paoom, and the Isle of Apee. On the
next morning, several more islands were discovered, lying off the
south-east point of Apee, and constituting a group, which Captain Cook
called Shepherd's isles, in honour of his learned and valuable friend,
Dr. Shepherd, Plumian professor of Astronomy at Cambridge. The ship
was this day in some danger. It suddenly fell calm, and our voyagers
were left to the mercy of the current, close by the isles, where no
sounding could be found with a line of a hundred and eighty fathoms.
The lands or islands, which lay around the vessel in every direction,
were so numerous, that they could not be counted. At this crisis a
breeze sprung up, which happily relieved the captain and his company
from the anxiety the calm had occasioned.
Amidst the number of islands, that were continually seen by our
navigators, there was only one on which no inhabitants were discerned.
This consisted chiefly of a remarkable peaked rock, which was only
accessible to birds, and which obtained the name of the Monument.
In the farther course of the ship to the southward, our navigators
drew near to certain lands, which they found to consist of one large
island, the southern and western extremities of which extended beyond
their sight. Three or four smaller ones lay off its north side. To the
two principal of these Captain Cook gave the name of Montagu and
Hinchinbrook; and the large island he named Sandwich, in honour of his
noble patron, the Earl of Sandwich. This island, which was spotted
with woods and lawns, agreeably diversified over the whole surface,
and which had a gentle slope from the hills down to the sea-coast
exhibited a most beautiful and delightful prospect. The examination of
it was not, however, so much an object with our commander as to
proceed to the south, in order to find the southern extremity of the
Archipelago.
Pursuing his discoveries, Captain Cook came in sight of an island,
which was afterwards known to be called by the natives Erromango.
After coasting it for three days, he brought his vessel to anchor in a
bay there, on the 3rd of August. The next day, he went with two boats
to examine the coast, and to look for a proper landing-place, that he
might obtain a supply of wood and water. At this time, the inhabitants
began to assemble on the shore, and by signs to invite our people to
land. Their behaviour was apparently so friendly, that the captain was
charmed with it; and the only thing which could give him the least
suspicion was, that most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts,
and bows and arrows. He did not, therefore, remit his vigilance; but
kept his eye continually upon the chief, watching his looks, as well
as his actions. It soon was evident that the intentions of the Indians
were totally hostile. They made a violent attempt to sieze upon one of
the boats; and though, on our commander's pointing a musket at them,
they in some measure desisted, yet they returned in an instant,
seemingly determined to carry their design into execution. At the head
of the party was the chief; while others, who could not come at the
boat, stood behind with darts, stones, and bows and arrows in hand,
ready to support their countrymen. As signs and threats had no effect,
the safety of Captain Cook and his people became the only object of
consideration; and yet he was unwilling to fire on the multitude. He
resolved, therefore, to make the chief alone the victim of his own
treachery, and accordingly aimed his musket at him; but at this
critical moment it missed fire. This circumstance encouraged the
natives to despise our weapons, and to shew the superiority of their
own, by throwing stones and darts and by shooting arrows. Hence it
became absolutely necessary for the captain to give orders to his men
to fire upon the assailants. The first discharge threw them into
confusion; but a second was scarcely sufficient to drive them off the
beach. In consequence of this skirmish, four of the Indians lay, to
all appearance, dead on the shore. However, two of them were afterward
perceived to crawl into the bushes; and it was happy for these people
that not half of the muskets of the English would go off, since
otherwise many more must have fallen. The inhabitants were, at length,
so terrified as to make no farther appearance; and two oars which had
been lost in the conflict, were left standing up against the bushes.
It was observed of these islanders, that they seemed of a different
race from those of Mallicollo, and that they spoke a different
language. They are of a middle size, with a good shape and tolerable
features. Their colour is very dark; and their aspect is not mended by
a custom they have of painting their faces, some with black, and
others with red pigment. As to their hair, it is curly and crisp, and
somewhat woolly. The few women who were seen, and who appeared to be
ugly, wore a kind of petticoat, made either of palm leaves, or a plant
similar in its nature; but the men, like those of Mallicollo, were
almost entirely naked. On account of the treacherous behaviour of the
inhabitants of Erromango, Captain Cook called a promontory, or
peninsula, near which the skirmish happened, _Traitor's Head_.
From this place the captain sailed for an island which had been
discovered before, at a distance, and at which, on account of his
wanting a large quantity of wood and water, he was resolved to make
some stay. At first the natives were disposed to be very hostile but
our commander, with equal wisdom and humanity contrived to terrify
them, without danger to their lives. This was principally effected by
firing a few great guns, at which they were so much alarmed, as
afterwards to be brought to tolerable order. Among these islanders,
many were inclined to be on friendly terms with our navigators, and
especially the old people; whilst most of the younger were daring and
insolent, and obliged the English to keep to their arms. It was
natural enough, that age should be prudent and cautious, and youth
bold and impetuous; and yet this distinction, with regard to the
behaviour of the various nations which had been visited by Captain
Cook, had not occurred before.
The island, where the captain now stayed, was found upon inquiry to be
called, by the inhabitants, Tanna; and three others in its
neighbourhood, and which could be seen from it, were distinguished by
the names of Immer, Erronan or Footoona and Annatom.
From such information of the natives, as our commander could see no
reason to doubt, it appeared, that circumcision was practised among
them, and that they were eaters of human flesh. Concerning the latter
subject, he should never have thought of asking them a single
question, if they had not introduced it themselves, by inquiring
whether the English had the same custom. It hath been argued, that
necessity alone could be the origin of this horrid practice. But as
the people of Tanna are possessed of fine pork and fowls, together
with an abundance of roots and fruits, the plea of necessity cannot be
urged in their behalf. In fact, no instance was seen of their eating
human flesh; and, therefore, there might, perhaps, be some reason to
hesitate, in pronouncing them to be cannibals.
By degrees the inhabitants grew so courteous and civil, as to permit
the English gentlemen to ramble about in the skirts of the woods, and
to shoot in them, without affording them the least molestation, or
shewing any dislike. One day, some boys of the island having gotten
behind thickets, and thrown two or three stones at our people, who
were cutting wood, they were fired at by the petty officers on duty.
Captain Cook, who was then on shore, was alarmed at the report of the
muskets; and, when he was informed of the cause, was much displeased
that so wanton a use should be made of our fire-arms. Proper measures
were taken by him to prevent such conduct for the future.
In the island of Tanna was a volcano, which sometimes made a dreadful
noise, and, at each explosion, which happened every three or four
minutes, threw up fire and smoke in prodigious columns. At one time,
great stones were seen high in the air. At the foot of the hill were
several hot springs; and on the side of it Mr. Forster found some
places whence smoke of a sulphureous smell issued, through cracks or
fissures of the earth. A thermometer that was placed in a little hole
made in one of them, and which in the open air stood only at eighty,
rose to a hundred and seventy. In another instance, the mercury rose
to a hundred and ninety-one. Our commander, being desirous of getting
a nearer and good view of the volcano, set out with a party for that
purpose. But the gentlemen met with so many obstructions from the
inhabitants, who were jealous of their penetrating far into the
country, that they thought proper to return.
It is observable, with respect to the volcano of Tanna, that it is not
on the ridge of the hill to which it belongs, but on its side. Nor is
that hill the highest in the country, for there are others near it of
more than double its height. It was in moist and wet weather that the
volcano was most violent.
When our commander was ready to sail from Tanna, an event happened,
which gave him much concern. Just as our people were getting some logs
into the boat, four or five of the natives stepped forward to see what
they were doing. In consequence of the Indians not being allowed to
come within certain limits, the sentinel ordered them back, upon which
they readily complied. At this time, Captain Cook, who had his eyes
fixed upon them, observed the sentry present his piece to the men. The
captain was going to reprove him for his action, when, to his
inexpressible astonishment, the sentry fired. An attack, so causeless
and extraordinary, naturally threw the natives into great confusion.
Most of them fled, and it was with difficulty that our commander could
prevail upon a few of them to remain. As they ran off, he perceived
one of them to fall, who was immediately lifted up by two others, who
took him into the water, washed his wound, and then led him off. The
wounded person not being carried far, Captain Cook sent for the
surgeon of the ship, and accompanied him to the man, whom they found
expiring. The rascal that had fired pretended that an Indian had laid
an arrow across his bow, and was going to shoot at him: so that he
apprehended himself to be in danger. This, however, was no more than
what the islanders had always done, to shew that they were armed as
well as our voyagers. What rendered, the present incident the more
unfortunate was, that it was not the man who bent the bow, but one who
stood near him, that was shot by the sentry.
The harbour where the captain anchored, during his stay at Tanna, was
called by him Port Resolution, after the name of the ship, she being
the first vessel by which it was ever entered. It is no more than a
little creek, three quarters of a mile in length, and about half that
space in breadth. No place can exceed it in its convenience for taking
in wood and water, which are both close to the shore. The inhabitant
of the island, with whom our commander had the most frequent and
friendly connexions, was named Paowang.
Very little trade could be carried on with the people of Tanna. They
had not the least knowledge of iron; and consequently nails, tools,
and other articles made of that metal, and which are so greedily
sought for in the more eastern isles, were here of no consideration.
Cloth could be of no service to persons who go naked.
Among the productions of the island, there is reason to believe that
the nutmeg-tree might be mentioned. This is collected from the
circumstance of Mr. Forster's having shot a pigeon, in the craw of
which a wild nut-meg was discovered. However, though he took some
pains to find the tree, his endeavours were not attended with success.
It was at first thought by our navigators, that the inhabitants of
Tanna were a race between the natives of the Friendly Islands and
those of Mallicollo; but by a short acquaintance with them they were
convinced, that they had little or no affinity to either, excepting in
their hair. Some few men, women, and children, were seen, whose hair
resembled that of the English. With regard, however, to these persons,
it was obvious, that they were of another nation; and it was
understood that they came from Erronan. Two languages were found to be
spoken in Tanna. One of them, which appeared to have been introduced
from Erronan, is nearly, if not exactly, the same with that of the
Friendly islands. The other, which is the proper language of the
country, and which is judged to be peculiar to Tanna, Erromango, and
Annatom, is different from any that had hitherto been met with by our
voyagers.
The people of Tanna, are of the middle size, and for the most part
slender. There are few tall or stout men among them. In general, they
have good feature and agreeable countenances. Like all the tropical
race, they are active and nimble; and seem to excel in the use of
arms, but not to be fond of labour. With respect to the management of
their weapons, Mr. Wales hath made an observation so honourable to
Homer, that were I to omit it, I should not be forgiven by my
classical readers. 'I must confess,' says Mr. Wales. 'I have often
been led to think the feats which Homer represents his heroes as
performing with their spears, a little too much of the marvellous to
be admitted into an heroic poem; I mean when confined within the
strait stays of Aristotle. Nay, even so great an advocate for him as
Mr. Pope, acknowledges them to be surprising. But since I have seen
what these people can do with their wooden spears, and them badly
pointed, and not of a hard nature, I have not the least exception to
any one passage in that great poet on this account. But if I see fewer
exceptions, I can find infinitely more beauties in him; as he has. I
think, scarcely an action, circumstance, or description of any kind
whatever, relating to a spear, which I have not seen and recognized
among these people; as their whirling motion, and whistling noise, as
they fly; their quivering motion, as they stick in the ground when
they fall; their meditating their aim, when they are going to throw;
and their shaking them in their hand, as they go along.'
On the 20th of August, Captain Cook sailed from Tanna, and employed
all the remainder of the month in a farther examination of the islands
around him. He had now finished his survey of the whole Archipelago,
and had gained a knowledge of it, infinitely superior to what had ever
been attained before. The northern islands of this Archipelago were
first discovered in 1606, by that eminent navigator Quiros, who
considered them as part of the Southern continent, which, at that
time, and till very lately, was supposed to exist. M. de Bougainville
was the next person by whom they were visited, in 1768. This
gentleman, however, besides landing in the Isle of Lepers, only made
the discovery, that the country was not connected, but composed of
islands, which he called the Great Cyclades. Captain Cook, besides
ascertaining the situation and extent of these islands, added to them
several new ones, which had hitherto been unknown, and explored the
whole. He thought, therefore, that he had obtained a right to name
them; and accordingly he bestowed upon them the appellation of the
_New Hebrides_. His title to this honour will not be disputed in
any part of Europe, and certainly not by so enlightened and liberal a
people as the French nation.
The season of the year now rendered it necessary for our commander to
return to the south, while he had yet some time to explore any land he
might meet with between the New Hebrides and New Zealand; at which
last place he intended to touch, that he might refresh his people, and
renew his stock of wood and water for another southern course. With
this view, he sailed on the 1st of September, and on the 4th land was
discovered; in a harbour belonging to which the Resolution came to an
anchor the next day. The design of Captain Cook was not only to visit
the country, but to have an opportunity of observing an eclipse of the
sun, which was soon to happen. An intercourse immediately commenced
with the inhabitants, who, during the whole of the captain's stay,
behaved in a very civil and friendly manner. In return, he was
solicitous to render them every service in his power. To Teabooma the
chief, he sent among other articles, a dog and a bitch, both young,
but nearly full grown. It was some time before Teabooma could believe
that the two animals were intended for him; but when he was convinced
of it, he was lost in an excess of joy. Another, and still more
valuable present, was that of a young boar and sow; which, on account
of the absence of the chief when they were brought to land, were
received with great hesitation and ceremony.
The last time that our commander went on shore at this place, he
ordered an inscription to be cut on a large tree, setting forth the
name of the ship, the date of the year, and other circumstances, which
testified that the English were the first discoverers of the country.
This he had before done, wherever such a ceremony seemed necessary.
How the island was called by the natives, our voyagers could never
learn: and therefore, Captain Cook gave it the name of New Caledonia.
The inhabitants are strong, robust, active, and well made. With regard
to the origin of the nation, the captain judged them to be a race
between the people of Tanna and the Friendly Isles; or between those
of Tanna and the New Zealanders; or all three. Their language is in
some respects a mixture of them all. In their disposition they are
courteous and obliging; and they are not in the least addicted to
pilfering, which is more than can be asserted concerning any other
nation in this sea.
The women of New Caledonia, and those likewise of Tanna, were found to
be much chaster than the females of the more eastern islands. Our
commander never heard that the least favour was obtained from them by
any one of his company. Sometimes, indeed, the women would exercise a
little coquetry, but they went no farther.
The botanists of the ship did not here complain for want of
employment. They were diligent in their researches, and their labours
were amply rewarded. Every day brought some new accession to botanical
knowledge, or that of other branches of natural history.
Every thing being ready to put to sea, Captain Cook weighed anchor on
the 13th of September, with the purpose of examining the coast of New
Caledonia. In pursuing this object, by which he was enabled to add
greatly to nautical and geographical knowledge, the Resolution was
more than once in danger of being lost, and particularly, in the night
of the 28th of the month, she had a narrow escape. Our navigators, on
this occasion, were much alarmed; and daylight shewed that their fears
had not been ill founded. Indeed, breakers had been continually under
their lee, and at a small distance from them; so that they were in the
most imminent danger. 'We owed our safety,' says the captain, 'to the
interposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very brisk
manner in which the ship was managed.'
Our commander now began to be tired of a coast which he could no
longer explore but at the risk of losing the vessel, and ruining the
whole voyage. He determined, however, not to leave it, till he knew of
what kind some groves of trees were, which, by their uncommon
appearance, had occasioned much speculation, and had been mistaken, by
several of the gentlemen, for bisaltes. Captain Cook was the more
solicitous to ascertain the point, as these trees appeared to be of a
sort, which might be useful to shipping, and had not been seen any
where, but in the southern parts of New Caledonia. They proved to be a
species of spruce pine, very proper for spars, which were then wanted.
The discovery was valuable, as, excepting New Zealand, there was not
an island known, in the South Pacific Ocean, where the ship could
supply herself with a mast or yard, to whatever distress she might be
reduced. It was the opinion of the carpenter of the Resolution, who
was a mastmaker as well as a shipwright, that very good masts might be
made from the trees in question. The wood of them, which is white,
close-grained, tough, and light, is well adapted to that purpose. One
of the small islands where the trees were found, was called by the
captain the Isle of Pines. To another, on account of its affording
sufficient employment to the botanists, during the little time they
stayed upon it, he gave the name of Botany Isle.
Captain Cook now took into serious consideration what was farther to
be done. He had pretty well determined the extent of the south-west
coast of New Caledonia, and would gladly have proceeded to a more
accurate survey of the whole, had he not been deterred, not only by
the dangers he must encounter, but by the time required for the
undertaking, and which he could not possibly spare. Indeed, when he
considered the vast ocean he had to explore to the south; the state
and condition of the ship; the near approach of summer; and that any
material accident might detain him in this sea even for another year,
he did not think it advisable to make New Caledonia any longer the
object of his attention. But though he was thus obliged, by necessity,
for the first time, to leave a coast which he had discovered, before
it was fully surveyed, he did not quit it till he had ascertained the
extent of the country, and proved, that, excepting New Zealand, it was
perhaps the largest island in the Southern Pacific Ocean.
As the Resolution pursued her course from New Caledonia, land was
discovered, which on a nearer approach, was found to be an island, of
good height, and five leagues in circuit. Captain Cook named it
Norfolk Isle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. It was
uninhabited; and the first persons that ever set foot on it were
unquestionably our English navigators. Various trees and plants were
observed that are common at New Zealand; and, in particular, the flax
plant, which is rather more luxuriant here than in any part of that
country. The chief produce of the island is a kind of spruce pine,
exceedingly straight and tall, which grows in great abundance. Such is
the size of many of the trees, that, breast high, they are as thick as
two men can fathom. Among the vegetables of the place, the
palm-cabbage afforded both a wholesome and palatable refreshment; and,
indeed, proved the most agreeable repast that our people had for a
considerable time enjoyed. In addition to this gratification, they had
the pleasure of procuring some excellent fish.
From Norfolk Isle, our commander steered for New Zealand, it being his
intention to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, that he might refresh
his crew, and put the ship in a condition to encounter the southern
latitudes. On the 18th of October, he anchored before Ship Cove in
that sound; and the first thing he did, after landing, was to look for
the bottle he had left on the shore, in which was a memorandum. It was
taken away; and it soon appeared, from indubitable circumstances, that
the Adventure had been in the cove after it was quitted by the
Resolution.
Upon visiting the gardens which had been formed at Motuara, they were
found almost in a state of nature, having been wholly neglected by the
inhabitants. Many, however, of the articles were in a flourishing
condition and shewed how well they liked the soil in which they were
planted. It was several days before any of the natives made their
appearance; but when they did so, and recognised Captain Cook and his
friends, joy succeeded to fear. They hurried in numbers out of the
woods, and embraced the English over and over again, leaping and
skipping about like madmen. Amidst all this extravagance of joy, they
were careful to preserve the honour of their females; for they would
not permit some women, who were seen at a distance, to cone near our
people. The captain's whole intercourse with the New Zealanders,
during this his third visit to Queen Charlotte's Sound, was peaceable
and friendly; and one of them, a man apparently of consequence, whose
name was Pedro, presented him with a staff of honour, such as the
chiefs generally carry. In return, our commander dressed Pedro, who
had a fine person, and a good presence, in a suit of old clothes, of
which he was not a little proud.
Captain Cook still continued his solicitude to stock the island with
useful animals; and accordingly, in addition to what he had formerly
done, he ordered two pigs a boar and sow, to be put on shore. There
was reason to believe, that some of the cocks and hens which had
formerly been left here still existed. None of them, indeed, were
seen; but a hen's egg was found, which had not been long laid.
Mr. Wales had now an opportunity of completing his observations with
regard to Queen Charlotte's Sound, so as to ascertain its latitude and
longitude with the utmost accuracy. In the captain's former voyage
there had been an error in this respect. Such were Mr. Wales's
abilities and assiduity, that the same correctness was maintained by
him, in determining the situation of all the other places which were
visited by our navigators.
On the 10th of November, Captain Cook took his departure from New
Zealand, in farther pursuit of his great object, the determination of
the question concerning the existence of a southern continent. Having
sailed till the 27th, in different degrees of latitude, extending from
43 to 55° 48' south, he gave up all hopes of finding any more land in
this ocean. He came, therefore, to the resolution of steering directly
for the west entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, with a view of
coasting the south side of Terra del Fuego, round Cape Horn, to the
Strait Le Maire. As the world had hitherto obtained but a very
imperfect knowledge of this shore, the captain thought that the full
survey of it would be more advantageous, both to navigation and
geography, than any thing he could expect to find in a higher
latitude.
In the prosecution of his voyage, our commander, on the 17th of
December, reached the west coast of Terra del Fuego; and having
continued to range it till the 20th, he came to an anchor in a place
to which he afterwards gave the name of Christmas Sound. Through the
whole course of his various navigations, he had never seen so desolate
a coast. It seems to be entirely composed of rocky mountains, without
the least appearance of vegetation. These mountains terminate to
horrible precipices, the craggy summits of which spire up to a vast
height; so that scarcely any thing in nature can appear with a more
barren and savage aspect, than the whole of the country.
The run which Captain Cook had made directly across the ocean in a
high southern latitude, was believed by him to be the first of the
kind that had ever been carried into execution. He was, therefore,
somewhat particular in remarking every circumstance which seemed to be
in the least material. However, he could not but observe, that he had
never made a passage any where, of such length, or even of a much
shorter extent, in which so few things occurred, that were of an
interesting nature. Excepting the variation of the compass, he knew of
nothing else that was worthy of notice. The captain had now done with
the Southern Pacific Ocean; and he had explored it in such a manner,
that it would be impossible for any one to think that more could be
performed in a single voyage, towards obtaining that end, than had
actually been accomplished.
Barren and dreary as the land is about Christmas Sound, it was not
wholly destitute of some accomodations, which could not fail of being
agreeable to our navigators. Near every harbour they found fresh water
and wood for fuel. The country abounds like-wise with wild fowl, and
particularly with geese; which afforded a refreshment to the whole
crew, that was the more acceptable on account of the approaching
festival. Had not Providence thus happily provided for them, their
Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork. Some Madeira wine,
the only article of provision that was mended by keeping, was still
left. This in conjunction with the geese, which were cooked in every
variety of method, enabled our people to celebrate Christmas as
cheerfully as perhaps was done by their friends in England.
The inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, Captain Cook found to be of the
same nation that he had formerly seen in Success Bay; and the same
whom M. de Bougainville has distinguished by the name of Pecharas.
They are a little ugly, half-starved, beardless race, and go almost
naked. It is their own fault that they are no better clothed, nature
having furnished them with ample materials for that purpose. By lining
their seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of aquatic birds;
by making the cloaks themselves larger; and by applying the same
materials to different parts of clothing, they might render their
dress much more warm and comfortable. But while they are doomed to
exist in one of the most inhospitable climates in the globe, they have
not sagacity enough to avail themselves of those means of adding to
the conveniences of life, which Providence has put into their power.
In short, the captain, after having been a witness to so many
varieties of the human race, hath pronounced, that, of all the nations
he had seen, the Pecharas are _the most wretched_.
Notwithstanding the barrenness of the country, it abounds with a
variety of unknown plants, and gave sufficient employment to the
botanists of the Resolution. 'Almost every plant,' says Mr. Forster,
'which we gathered on the rocks, was new to us, and some species were
remarkable for the beauty of their flowers, or their smell.
On the 28th of December, our commander sailed from Christmas Sound,
and proceeded on his voyage, round Cape Horn, through Strait le Maire,
to Staten Land. This famous Cape was passed by him on the next day,
when he entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. In some charts Cape Horn
is laid down as belonging to a small island; but this was neither
confirmed, nor could it be contradicted by our navigators; for several
breakers appeared in the coast, both to the east and west of it, and
the hazy weather rendered every object very indistinct. Though the
summits of some of the hills were rocky, the sides and valleys seemed
covered with a green turf, and wooded in tufts.
In ranging Staten Island, a good port was found, situated three
leagues to the westward of St. John, and in a northern direction. Upon
account of the day on which the discovery of this port was made (being
the 1st of January), Captain Cook gave it the name of New Year's
Harbour. The knowledge of it may be of service to future navigators.
Indeed, it would be more convenient for ships bound to the west, or
round Cape Horn, if its situation would permit them to put to sea with
an easterly and northerly wind. But this inconvenience is not of great
consequence, since these winds are seldom known to be of long
duration. The captain, however, has declared that if he were on a
voyage round Cape Horn to the west, and not in want of wood or water,
or any thing which might make it necessary to put into port, he would
not approach the land at all. By keeping out at sea the currents would
be avoided, which, he was satisfied, would lose their force at ten or
twelve leagues from land, and be totally without influence at a
greater distance.
The extent of Terra del Fuego, and consequently that of the Straits of
Magalhaens, our commander ascertained to be less than has been laid
down by the generality of navigators. Nor was the coast, upon the
whole, found to be so dangerous as has often been represented. The
weather, at the same time, was remarkably temperate.
In one of the little isles near Staten Land, and which had been called
by Captain Cook, New Year's Isles, there was observed a harmony
between the different animals of the place, which is too curious to be
omitted. It seemed as if they had entered into a league not to disturb
each other's tranquillity. The greater part of the sea-coast is
occupied by the sea-lions; the sea-bears take up their abode in the
isle; the shags are posted in the highest cliffs; the penguins fix
their quarters where there is the most easy communication to and from
the sea; and the rest of the birds choose more retired places. All
these animals were occasionally seen to mix together, like domestic
cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, without one attempting to molest
the other. Nay, the captain had often observed the eagles and vultures
sitting on the hills among the shags, while none of the latter,
whether old or young, appeared to be in the least disturbed at their
presence. It may be asked, then, how do these birds of prey live? This
question our commander hath answered, by supposing that they feed on
the carcasses of seals and birds which die by various causes. It is
probable, from the immense quantity of animals with which this isle
abounds, that such carcasses exist in great numbers.
From Staten island, Captain Cook sailed, on the 4th of January, with a
view, in the first place, of discovering that extensive coast, laid
down by Mr. Dalrymple in his chart, in which is the gulf of St.
Sebastian: In order to have all other parts before him, the captain
designed to make the western point of that gulf. As he had some doubt
of the existence of such a coast, this appeared to him the best route
for determining the matter, and for exploring the southern part of
this ocean. When he came to the situations assigned to the different
points of the gulf of St. Sebastian, neither land nor any unequivocal
signs of land were discovered. On the contrary, it was evident, that
there could not be any extensive tract of country in the direction
which had been supposed.
Proceeding in his voyage, land was seen on the 14th, which was at
first mistaken for an island of ice. It was in a manner wholly covered
with snow. From the person by whom it was first discovered, it
obtained the name of Wallis's Island. It is a high rock, of no great
extent, near to which are some rocky islets. Another island, of a
larger compass, on account of the vast number of birds which were upon
it, was called Bird Isle. A more extensive range of country had been
seen for some time which Captain Cook reached on the 17th, and where
he landed, on the same day, in three different places. The head of the
bay, in which he came to shore, was terminated by particular ice
cliffs, of considerable height. Pieces were continually breaking off,
and floating out to sea; and while our navigators were in the bay, a
great fall happened, which made a noise like a cannon. No less savage
and horrible were the inner parts of the country. The wild rocks
raised their summits till they were lost in the clouds, and the
valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. There was not a tree to be
seen, or a shrub found, that was even big enough to make a tooth-pick.
The only vegetation, that was met with, was a coarse strong-bladed
grass, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like moss, which
sprang from the rocks.
When our commander landed in the bay, he displayed the English
colours; and, under a discharge of small arms, took possession of the
country in his majesty's name. It was not, however, a discovery which
was ever likely to be productive of any considerable benefit. In his
return to the ship, Captain Cook brought with him a quantity of seals
and penguins, which were an acceptable present to the crew; not from
the want of provisions, which were plentiful in every kind, but from a
change of diet. Any sort of fresh meat was preferred by most on board
to salt. The captain himself was now, for the first time, tired of the
salted meats of the ship; and though the flesh of the penguins could
scarcely vie with bullock's liver, its freshness was sufficient to
render it comparatively agreeable to the palate. To the bay in which
he had been, he gave, the name of Possession Bay.
The land in which this bay lies, was at first judged by our navigators
to be part of a great continent. But, upon coasting round the whole
country, it was proved to a demonstration that it was only an island
of seventy leagues in circuit. In honour of his majesty, Captain Cook
called it the Isle of Georgia. It could scarcely have been thought,
that an island of no greater extent than this, situated between the
latitude of fifty-four and fifty-five, should, in a manner, be wholly
covered, many fathoms deep, with frozen snow, in the height of summer.
The sides and summits of the lofty mountains were cased with snow and
ice; and an incredible quantity lay in the valleys. So immense was the
quantity that our commander did not think that it could be the produce
of the island. Some land, therefore, which he had seen at a distance,
induced him to believe, that it might belong to an extensive tract,
and gave him hopes of discovering a continent. In this respect,
however, he was disappointed; but the disappointment did not sit heavy
upon him; since, to judge of the bulk by the apprehended sample, it
would not have been worth the discovery. It was remarkable, that our
voyagers did not see a river, or a stream of fresh water, on the whole
coast of the Isle of Georgia. Captain Cook judged it to be highly
probable, that there are no perennial springs in the country; and that
the interior parts, in consequence of their being much elevated, never
enjoy heat enough to melt the snow in sufficient quantities to produce
a river or stream of water. In sailing round the island, our
navigators were almost continually involved in a thick mist; so that,
for any thing they knew to the contrary, they might be surrounded with
dangerous rocks.
The captain on the 25th of the month, steered from the Isle of
Georgia, and, on the 27th, computed that he was in latitude sixty,
south. Farther than this he did not intend to go, unless some certain
signs of soon meeting with land should be discovered. There was now a
long hollow swell from the west, which was a strong indication that no
land was to be met with in that direction; and hence arose an
additional proof of what has already been remarked, that the extensive
coast laid down in Mr. Dalrymple's chart of the ocean between Africa
and America and the Gulf of St. Sebastian, doth not exist. Not to
mention the various islands which were seen in the prosecution of the
voyage, and the names that were given to them, I shall only advert to
a few of the more material circumstances. On an elevated coast, which
appeared in sight upon the 31st; our commander bestowed the
appellation of the Southern Thule. The reason of his giving it this
name was, that it is the most southern land that had ever yet been
discovered. It is everywhere covered with snow; and displays a surface
of vast height. On this day our voyagers were in no small danger from
a great westerly swell, which set right upon the shore, and threatened
to carry them on the most horrible coast in the world. Happily, the
discovery of a point to the north, beyond which no land could be seen,
relieved them from their apprehensions. To the more distinguished
tracts of country, which were discovered from the 31st of January to
the 6th of February, Captain Cook gave the names of Cape Bristol, Cape
Montagu, Saunder's Isle, Candlemas Isles, and Sandwich's Land. The
last is either a group of islands, or else a point of the continent.
For that there is a tract of land near the pole, which is the source
of most of the ice that is spread over this vast Southern Ocean, was
the captain's firm opinion. He also thought it probable, that this
land must extend farthest to the north, where it is opposite to the
Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Ice had always been found by him
farther to the north in these oceans, than any where else, and this he
judged could not be the case, if there were not land of considerable
extent to the south. However, the greatest part of this southern
continent, if it actually exists, must lie within the polar circle,
where the sea is so encumbered with ice, that the land is rendered
inaccessible. So great is the risk which is run, in examining a coast
in these unknown and icy seas, that our commander, with a modest and
well grounded boldness, could assert, that no man would ever venture
farther than he had done; and that the lands which may lie to the
south will never be explored. Thick fogs, snow storms, intense cold,
and every thing besides, that can render navigation dangerous, must be
encountered; all which difficulties are greatly heightened by the
inexpressibly horrid aspect of the country. It is a country doomed by
nature never once to feet the warmth of the sun's rays, but to lie
buried in everlasting snow and ice. Whatever ports there may be on the
coast, they are almost entirely covered with frozen snow of a vast
thickness. If however, any one of them should be so far open as to
invite a ship into it, she would run the risk of being fixed there for
ever, or of coming out in an ice island. To this it may be added, that
the islands and floats on the coast, the great falls from the ice
cliffs in the port, or a heavy snow storm, attended with a sharp
frost, might be equally fatal.
Nothing could exceed the inclination of Captain Cook, if it had been
practicable, to penetrate farther to the south: but difficulties like
these were not to be surmounted. If he had risked all that had been
done during the voyage, for the sake of discovering and exploring a
coast, which, when discovered and explored, would have answered no end
whatever, or have been of the least use either to navigation or
geography, or indeed to any other science, he would justly have been
charged with inexcusable temerity. He determined, therefore, to alter
his course to the east, and to sail in quest of Bouvet's Land, the
existence of which was yet to be settled. Accordingly, this was the
principal object of his pursuit, from the 6th to the 22nd of the
month. By that day he had run down thirteen degrees of longitude, in
the very latitude assigned for Bouvet's Land. No such land, however,
was discovered; nor did any proofs occur of the existence of Cape
Circumcision. Our commander was at this time no more than two degrees
of longitude from the route he had taken to the south, when he left
the Cape of Good Hope. It would, therefore, have been to no purpose to
proceed any farther to the east in this parallel. But being desirous
of determining the question concerning some land that was supposed to
have been seen more to the south, he directed his course for the
situation in which the discovery of it might be expected. Two days
were spent by him in this pursuit, to no effectual purpose. After
having run over the place where the land was imagined to lie, without
meeting with the least signs of any, it became certain that the ice
islands had deceived our navigators, as well as Mr. Bouvet.
Captain Cook had row made the circuit of the southern ocean in a high
latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least
room for the possibility of there being a continent, unless near the
pole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the
tropical sea, he had not only settled the situation of some old
discoveries, but made many new ones; and, indeed, even in that part,
had left little more to be accomplished. The intention of the voyage
had, in every respect, been fully answered, and the southern
hemisphere sufficiently explored. A final end was hereby put to the
searching after a southern continent, which, for nearly two centuries
past had occasionally engrossed the attention of some of the maritime
powers, and had been urged with great ardour by philosophers and
geographers in different ages.
The great purpose of his navigation round the globe being thus
completed, the captain began to direct his views towards England. He
had, indeed, some thoughts of protracting his course a little longer,
for the sake of revisiting the place where the French discovery is
said to be situated. But, upon mature deliberation, he determined to
lay aside his intention. He considered, that if this discovery had
really been made, the end would be as fully answered, as if it had
been done by himself. It could only be an island; and, if a judgment
might be formed from the degree of cold which our voyagers had
experienced in that latitude, it could not be a fertile one. Besides,
our commander would hereby have been kept two months longer at sea,
and that in a tempestuous latitude, with which the ship was not in a
condition to struggle. Her sails and rigging were so much worn, that
something was giving way every hour; and there was nothing left,
either to repair or to replace them. The provisions of the vessel were
in such a state of decay, that they afforded little nourishment, and
the company had been long without refreshments. Indeed, the crew were
yet healthy, and would cheerfully have gone wherever the captain had
judged it proper to lead them; but he was fearful, lest the scurvy
should lay hold of them, at a time, when none of the remedies were
left by which it could be removed. He thought, likewise, that it would
have been cruel in him to have continued the fatigues and hardships
they were perpetually exposed to, longer than was absolutely
necessary. Throughout the whole voyage, they had merited by their
behaviour every indulgence which it was in his power to bestow.
Animated by the conduct of the officers, they had shewn that no
difficulties or dangers which came in their way were incapable of
being surmounted; nor had their activity, courage, and cheerfulness
been in the least abated by the separation from them of their consort
the Adventure.
From all these considerations, which were evidently the dictates of
wisdom and humanity, Captain Cook was induced to spend no longer time
in searching for the French discoveries, but to steer for the Cape of
Good Hope. He determined, however, to direct his course in such a
manner, as to look for the Isles of Denia and Marseveen, which are
laid down in Dr. Halley's variation chart. After sailing in the proper
latitudes from the 25th of February to the 13th of March, no such
islands were discovered. Nothing, indeed, had been seen that could
encourage our voyagers to persevere in a search after them; and much
time could not now be spared, either for the purpose of finding them,
or of proving their non-existence. Every one on board was for good
reasons impatient to get into port. The captain, therefore, could no
longer avoid yielding to the general wishes, and resolving to proceed
to the Cape without further delay.
Soon after our commander had come to this determination, he demanded
of the officers and petty officers, in pursuance of his instructions,
the log books and journals they had kept; which were delivered to him
accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the Admiralty. He
enjoined them also, and the whole crew, not to divulge where they had
been, till they were permitted to do so by their lordships; an
injunction, a compliance with which might probably be rendered
somewhat difficult, from the natural tendency there is in men, to
relate the extraordinary enterprises and adventures wherein they have
been concerned.
As the Resolution approached towards the Cape of Good Hope, she fell
in first with a Dutch East Indiaman from Bengal, commanded by Captain
Bosch; and next with an English Indiaman, being the True Briton, from
China, of which Captain Broadly was the commander. Mr. Bosch very
obligingly offered to our navigators sugar, arrack, and whatever he
had to spare; and Captain Broadly, with the most ready generosity,
sent them fresh provisions, tea, and various articles which could not
fail of being peculiarly acceptable to people in their situation. Even
a parcel of old news-papers furnished no slight gratification to
persons who had so long been deprived of obtaining any intelligence
concerning their country and the state of Europe. From these vessels
Captain Cook received some information with regard to what had
happened to the Adventure after her separation from the Resolution.
On Wednesday, the 22nd of March,[9] he anchored in Table Bay; where he
found several Dutch ships, some French, and the Ceres, an English East
Indiaman, bound directly for England, under the command of Captain
Newte. By this gentleman he sent a copy of the preceding part of his
journal, some charts, and other drawings, to the Admiralty.
[Footnote 9: With our navigators who had sailed round the world,
it was Wednesday, the 22nd of March; but at the Cape of Good Hope
it was Tuesday the 21st.]
During the circumnavigation of the globe, from the period of our
commander's leaving the Cape of Good Hope to his return to it again,
he had sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues. This was an extent
of voyage nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference of
the earth, and which had never been accomplished before, by any ship,
in the same compass of duration. In such a case, it could not be a
matter of surprise, that the rigging and sails of the Resolution
should be essentially damaged, and even worn out, and yet, in all this
great run, which had been made in every latitude between nine and
seventy-one, she did not spring either lowmast, topmast, lower or
topsail yard; nor did she so much as break a lower or topmast shroud.
These happy circumstances were owing to the good properties of the
vessel, and the singular care and abilities of her officers.
On the remainder of the voyage it is not necessary to enlarge. Though
it was conducted with the same attention to navigation and geography,
and with the same sagacity in marking whatever was worthy of
observation, nevertheless, as it was not employed in traversing
unknown seas, or in discovering countries that had not been heard of
before, it may be sufficient briefly to mention the places at which
Captain Cook touched before his arrival in England. The repairs of the
ship having been completed, and the necessary stores gotten on board,
together with a fresh supply of provisions and water, he left the Cape
of Good Hope on the 27th of April, and reached the Island of St.
Helena on the 15th of May. Here he staid till the 21st, when he sailed
for the Island of Ascension, where he anchored on the 28th. From this
place he directed his course, on the 31st, for the Island of Fernando
de Noronha, at which he arrived on the 9th of June.
In the progress of the voyage, our commander made an experiment upon
the still for procuring fresh water; and the result of the trial was,
that the invention is useful upon the whole, but that to trust
entirely to it would by no means be advisable. Indeed, provided there
is not a scarcity of fuel, and the coppers are good, as much water may
be obtained as will support life; but no efforts will be able to
procure a quantity sufficient for the preservation of health,
especially in hot climates. Captain Cook was convinced by experience,
that nothing contributes more to the health of seamen, than having
plenty of water.
On the 14th of July, the captain came to anchor in the Bay of Fayal,
one of the Azores islands. His sole design in stopping here was to
give Mr. Wales an opportunity of finding the rate of the watch, that
hereby he might be enabled to fix the longitude of these island with
the greater degree of certainty. No sooner, therefore, had our
commander anchored, than he sent an officer to wait on the English
consul, and to acquaint the governor with the arrival of our
navigators, requesting his permission for Mr. Wales to make
observations on shore, for the purpose now mentioned. Mr. Dent, who
then acted as consul, not only obtained this permission, but
accommodated Mr. Wales with a convenient place in his garden, to set
up his instruments.
This object being accomplished, Captain Cook proceeded on the 19th,
with all expedition for England. On the 30th of the same month, he
anchored at Spithead, and landed at Portsmouth; having been absent
from Great Britain three years and eighteen days, in which time, and
under all changes of climate, he had lost but four men, and only one
of them by sickness.