Journey from Mettah to Murroo, general direction, W.S.W., time marching,
three hours and a-half.—Remarks upon the climate of Adal.—Pass some
small extinct volcanoes.—A little farriery.—Cautions for practitioners
of medicine resident among the Dankalli.—Halt for a short time at
Kuma.—Second visit of Abu Bukeree.—Proceed to Murroo.—Halt near kraal
of Durtee Ohmed, Sheik of the Sidee Ahbreu tribe.
_May 13th._—Up at sunrise, and soon after the party of pedestrians
followed the camels, proceeding along the plain in a west-south-west
direction. The hills of Affrabah to the south-west, the terminal peak of
the same range to the south-east, with the Hyhilloo mountain to the
north, formed a well-defined triangular space of flat open country,
which admitted the eye to range over an unbroken view of about ten miles
on every side. Nor was this a sterile tract, but covered with a jungle
of young mimosa trees, and plenty of excellent grass. Numerous dry
watercourses presented themselves as we marched along, and in some, the
yet soft clayey soil intimated the recent evaporation of the water. I
should have observed, that slight showers of rain, of not longer than
two or three minutes’ duration, occurred during every night of our stay
in Hiero Murroo. These were the last sprinklings of the wet season, if
the country of Adal may be said to have such distinctions in the unfixed
character of its climate. The squally thunder-storms of February, and
the great heats of August, constitute the extremes of annual difference,
but the persistence in the character of even these months cannot be
assured, and from what I observed myself, the reverse of these
conditions are just as likely to happen. The same vicissitudes, I was
told, characterize every month, and in different parts of Adal these
states of the atmosphere exist at the same time. In such an irregular
and uncertain climate, the presence of the cloud of fire by night, and
the pillar of sand by day are invaluable, as guides to the Bedouin in
search of water for his flocks, and natural history does not contain a
more striking illustration of the benevolent purposes of God towards
man, even in his most evil condition, than these phenomena present.
The singular position of the country of Adal is probably the cause of
this irregularity in the seasons. Islands that are surrounded by seas
are acknowledged to have their climates modified by the circumstances of
their situation; and differing in kind, but exactly analogous, is the
effect which is produced by the low position of Adal, surrounded on all
sides, except towards the east, by elevated table lands. A reference to
the map appended to this volume illustrates my idea better, perhaps,
than I can describe it. It will be there seen, that to the north a
water-shed directs the course of the river Takazza to the Nile, whilst
to the south, an oppositely correspondent water-shed is drained by the
river Whabbee, emptying itself into the Indian Ocean at Juba. Instead of
a mountain range, which usually marks the separations of different
watersheds, we here have a huge fissure of habitable land, drained by
its own particular water system. To the west, the high plateau of
Abyssinia closes the excavated plain of Adal, but it will be perceived
that in that direction the progress of extension is rapidly going on, by
the denuding agency of the river Hawash, which is annually removing its
courses farther to the west, by the vast amount of the Abyssinian
highland, it carries away during the rainy season in that country.
To this peculiar situation of Adal, therefore, I attribute the great
irregularity in the season of the rains, generally so periodical in
other intratropical districts. Opportunities of observation have been
only afforded me, of becoming acquainted with the fact, but the
character of the surrounding countries being known, and the relative
position of Adal with these, being borne in mind, I have no doubt
meteorologists will be able to account, for the irregularity and
vicissitudes of the climate.
To the left of our road, a lake called Iruloff was reported to exist,
which contained water all the year round. It communicates with the river
of Killaloo. My attention was directed to the subject, by seeing in that
direction a cloud of some thousands of the white ibis moving along the
horizon. They were much smaller than the Egyptian ibis, and more like
the paddy bird of India.
Towards the latter end of our march to-day the field of extinct craters
again appeared, the cones much larger, and increasing in height as they
approached the base of Hyhilloo and Abhidah. The trees and shrubs
clothing their sides seemed thicker and more luxuriant; and the ground
over which we marched was covered with light green grass, a small
lemon-flavoured fragrant mint, and the little blue-flowered
thorny-leaved plant of which the camels appear to be so fond. This
latter grows about four or five inches high, the numerous flowerets
growing along a spike like an ear of wheat, and when the seed is ripe it
is not unlike, in form or size, shrivelled corn.
Ohmed Mahomed was very ill this morning, and obliged to ride his mule.
Another awkward circumstance upon the march was a camel, subject to
epileptic fits, falling, was obliged to be unloaded. The Kafilah people
all attributed it to Jinn, and as the animal stumbled as if he were
drunk, it was not a bad cause to assign for his complaint, especially as
he was laden with a few dozens of choice Geneva going up for the use of
the Mission in Shoa. This, by the bye, had got the name of
“hubble-bubble,” from the rattling of the stone bottles against each
other, as the husks of some kind of seed, in which they were first
packed, got shaken out of the boxes. One of the great complaints brought
against Mahomed Allee by the Tajourah people was, his having “shrab
hubble-bubble,” drunk all the gin that had been entrusted to his care as
Ras ul Kafilah. Whatever spirit, however, possessed the camel, I was
applied to, to exorcise it. To do this I took a large lump of myrrh I
had just gathered from the tree, and a piece of opium I happened to have
with me. These I rolled up in paper like a horse ball, and having seen
something of the sort in farriery, when giving medicine to cattle, I
caught hold of the camel’s tongue with one hand, and passed the other,
arm, elbow, and all, far down his throat, so that the animal could not
get his physic back again any how; a mode of medical treatment that
delighted the Dankalli exceedingly; and, had they been governors of an
hospital, they would have been unanimous in appointing me physician, on
the ground of my merits alone. My success, too, was surprising, for the
camel recovered for the time, and this addition to my fame, increased
the confidence of Ohmed Mahomed, in the efficacy of the remedies I had
also given to him. Had this latter been treated properly he ought to
have been bled, as he was evidently labouring under a determination of
blood to the head.
I was prevented performing this little operation by recollecting the
case of an unfortunate Armenian doctor, who, in Suikin, two years
before, had been sacrificed by the populace on account of the death of a
patient whom he had thus treated. The Turkish Governor of the town,
before whom the complaint was made of this treatment, in vain interceded
in behalf of the doctor; his expostulations had no effect, and he was
obliged to permit that which he was unable to prevent, and the accused
was taken from his presence to the outside of the walls of the town,
where he was barbarously executed in the usual manner, by the weapons of
the friends and relations of his deceased patient. I heard of this in
Aden, the fact having been reported by the European Consuls in the
neighbouring ports to their respective Governments, and, in consequence,
a representation was made to the Porte upon the subject. In such
countries if a traveller be requested to afford assistance to sick
persons, for whom no hope of recovery exists, his best practice will be
to recommend the friends of the patient to pray a certain number of
times to Allah, or if he finds he must do something himself, let him
give them some written charm or other, but never by any means administer
medicine or perform the least operation. In cases when active measures
are adopted, and the patient, to the surprise of himself and others,
does get well, the cure is always ascribed to Allah alone; but should he
die, the doctor is considered responsible for his death, which is
certain to be attributed to him or his medicines. To show how careful a
person ought to be, I shall relate a little incident that occurred to me
whilst we were staying at our last halting-place. A woman came for some
medicine for her husband, who was said to be very ill indeed. I could
not go to see him as he lived ten or twelve miles from the Kafilah. As
the woman was very importunate for medicine, which, having no knowledge
of the case, I at first refused, to get rid of her, I opened a package
of tea, and giving her a small spoonful, wrapt it up in a bit of old
newspaper, and sent her away, with directions how to use it. The next
morning, however, I found her, making a terrible noise at the entrance
of my hut, saying that her husband was a great deal worse, and all owing
to the medicine he had taken. No one could understand the simple
character of the remedy I had sent him, so all my explanations went for
nothing, until I happened to see, sticking between her skin petticoat
and her own black hide, the identical paper I had put the medicine in;
and snatching it from her waist, I found the tea still in it, actually
untouched. This evidence of the woman’s imposture was conclusive, and
she was taken away by those of her friends, who just before were making
loud demands of compensation, for the injury they asserted I had done.
In simple cases of temporary disordered functions, or when medicine
could be demonstrated to possess specific effects upon the seat of some
organic disease, I always gladly availed myself of the opportunity of
displaying the advantages and power, derivable from the knowledge of the
medical properties of natural substances. In fact, I always pleaded to
the more intelligent of my companions, that the desire to obtain an
increase of knowledge, as an Ahkeem, was the principal reason why I had
left my country to expose my health and life in a country like Adal,
among a people so barbarous as even the Dankalli acknowledged themselves
to be.
The Kafilah halted at Kuma, and a few camels were already unloaded, when
it was determined by Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed, that we should
proceed at once to Murroo, the residence of a tribe called Sidee Ahbreu,
to the chief of which, one Durtee Ohmed, I had a kind of introduction
from Lieutenant Barker, similar to the one I had to Abu Bukeree. Of this
latter chieftain I had lost sight for several days, although his wives
and children often visited me, bright with smiles, sometimes bringing me
little skins of milk, or a large German-sausage-looking affair,
consisting of a portion of the dried intestine of a cow filled with
ghee. The absence of Abu Bukeree was occasioned by the presence of Abu
Mahomed, the father of Mahomed Allee, who was still with the Wahama
Kafilah which preceded us about two miles, and who would often visit me
in our camp. Two suns at a time are allowed to be too many by the
Dankalli; and so, with a becoming politeness, these old gentlemen had
agreed to divide my attentions and presents, the father of Mahomed Allee
to have the benefit of my acquaintance to Kuma, where the undisputed
territory of Abu Bukeree commenced, and this latter was then to take his
turn to Murroo. I do not think that when this arrangement was made
between them, Abu Bukeree said anything about the present I had already
given him. At all events, our Ras ul Kafilah had been no party to this
negotiation, and his determination to proceed without halting at Kuma
quite deranged their plan; Ohmed Mahomed conceived that it would be more
profitable for him to continue the day’s journey on to Murroo, to avoid
any more demands from Abu Bukeree for presents, on the plea of halting
in his territory. Instructions were accordingly given to the Kafilah not
to unload here. A short explanatory calahm with the Debenee chief, who
was already on the ground to receive us, occasioned a little detention,
but, as already observed, as he had received other presents at Hiero
Murroo besides those I had given to him, he was obliged to be satisfied.
I did not like to see the old man treated in this manner, especially as
I thought advantage had been taken of the peaceable character of himself
and his tribe; so when he came to pay his respects to me as I sat under
a tree, waiting with Zaido until the numerous camels had again gone some
distance a-head, I promised him if he would accompany us to Murroo, to
give him the old Arab frock I then wore. He accordingly accompanied us
to our encamping ground, and received the almost worn-out garment with
many thanks, as he held it up before him, like a Jew calculating the
probable value of an old coat. After examining its novel cut and
character, the venerable chief at last made up his mind what to do with
it, for, nodding to his wife, who was in, what is called, a delicate
situation, he intimated his idea that it would very well become her, and
bestowed it accordingly.
Two little boys were now ordered to drive back a fine bullock, which had
evidently been intended as a return present, for those which Abu Bukeree
had expected from us. The old gentleman then bowed his salams, and
mounted his mule; stooping, as he rode away, over the neck of the
animal; the long bent back of age, strikingly contrasted with the
straight shaft of the spear he carried on his shoulder.
Our halting-place, Murroo, was a natural park, in which small green
savannahs were surrounded with tall, flat-topped mimosa-trees, the
trunks of which were hidden, by an interlaced thicket of the ascending
and descending runners of some luxuriantly growing climber. An immense
number of sparrow-like birds, with their noisy chirrupings, seemed to
raise great objections to our occupation of their favourite resort. The
little woodland scene was altogether very pretty; but I was too tired
after our long journey of five hours, to have any eye for the beautiful,
and was glad to lie down in my hut immediately it was announced ready,
bid Zaido place a mat over the entrance, and go to sleep at once.
At sunset, I awoke; Zaido bringing a large bowl of boiled wheat and
clouted cream for my supper, and under the influence of an excellent
appetite, I soon lessened its contents. A strange kind of humming now
attracted my attention, and, getting out of my hut, I observed, at no
great distance, a small circle of Tajourah people, who, neither in
calahm nor zekar, seemed still to be occupied in the performance of some
ceremony, each of the six persons engaged, taking his turn to repeat a
short sentence or so, in a low murmuring tone, and then giving way to
the next. Going nearer, to see what they were about, I was joined by
Allee, who informed me they were doctoring Ohmed Mahomed, in their own
fashion, by offering up prayers to Allah, and asked if I thought he
would recover. As I had already given to him three strong cathartic
pills, and his case was not a desperate one, I held out hopes to the
distressed Allee, that probably the next morning his master would be
quite well. Having approached the circle, and dropt upon my heels, close
behind them, I watched the proceedings of these devotee practitioners in
medicine, and noticed that each one, in succession, recited in a low
voice, the first chapter of the Koran, and then spit upon the patient,
who, wrapt up in a black Arab cloak, was lying at full length upon a
mat, in the midst of them. Every one having duly performed this
ceremony, the circle broke up, and coffee being brought, the good effect
of the combined praying and spitting was acknowledged by all, when Ohmed
Mahomed sat up, and called for the first cup.
This kind of medical treatment is not confined to the diseases of
mankind, for on more than one occasion I have seen them adopt the same
means of relief for a sick camel. When one of these animals lies down
for the night, without performing a little necessary act, it is always
considered a certain symptom of ill-health. The owner in this case,
procures a piece of string long enough to go round the body of the
camel, in which he ties seven knots, at nearly equal distances from each
other. As he does this, at each knot, he stops and recites the Fahtah,
or first chapter of the Koran, and should he not be able to do this
himself, he procures the assistance of some learned friend, who performs
that part of the duty for him. At the end of each Fahtah, the knot is
spit upon. The string being thus duly consecrated, is then passed under
the animal’s belly, and tied upon the back, and during the night,
generally produces the diuretic effects desired.
_May 14th._—Staying at Murroo. The first thing I did to-day was to get
out some paper I intended to distribute among the members of the Sidee
Ahbreu tribe, whom I expected to come begging. The first thing Allee the
First did, was to steal the said paper, whilst I was busy packing up the
box again. This he accomplished by putting his hand and arm between two
boxes that formed part of my hut, and reaching from behind me the paper,
which he then conveyed away beneath his tobe. I did not know who to
charge with the robbery, but upon complaining to Ohmed Medina, he made
some inquiries about it, which led to the detection of Master Allee,
who, on being brought before me, retorted by charging me with having
stolen his fedeenah, or wooden pillow. However innocently on my part,
such being the actual case, I consented to a compromise. I was to
receive back my paper, and Allee again into favour, without prejudice to
his boxeish in Shoa, for his falling off in this instance, from the
strict path of duty and honesty. It must be told how he came to know,
that I had had possession of his fedeenah during the time he had lost
it, and had not, as he at first supposed, procured its return to him by
magical incantations. Whilst sitting the evening before with the praying
party, after their curious ceremony was over, I was questioned as to my
power over the inhabitants of the nether world. I denied any such power,
stating that the spell I employed to dispossess the devil, or Jinn, from
the sick camel, was a piece of myrrh, and not the paper it was wrapt up
in. Then came the question how had I been able to procure the return of
the wooden pillow; for Allee, as soon as I had given it to him, changed
his previous tale of its having been stolen, and asserted he had left it
behind at a halting-place, some days’ journey distance, from whence my
familiar spirit had brought it at my command. This I satisfactorily
explained by relating the whole circumstances; and Allee being laughed
at for his credulity, now fell back upon the circumstance of my keeping
the fedeenah, without any inquiry as to whom it belonged, to excuse his
theft of the paper.
Abu Bukeree’s daughter brought some milk he had promised me, and begged
hard for a dollar in silver. I referred her to Ohmed Mahomed, who, at my
request, gave her, but very unwillingly, a head-covering of blue sood,
and sent her away.
Our camp was about half a mile from the village of Durtee Ohmed, who
was, as I was told, then on an expedition against the Alla Gallas,
assisting a party of Wahama, who had gone to retaliate for some recent
outrages committed by that people. In accordance with the request of
Lieut. Barker, I intended to have given him a present, on being
introduced to him, similar to the one I gave Abu Bukeree, and had
provided five dollars for that purpose; as he was from home, however, I
fancied they were so many dollars saved, put them up again, and thought
no more of the matter.
In the evening Ohmed Medina left us, going with Garahmee and Moosa,
nearly all the way back again to Herhowlee, as they heard that an
elephant had been recently killed at Dowaleeka; and with the hope of
being able to purchase the ivory from the hunters, this party started
intending to travel the whole night.
Plenty of women thronged the camp, and the men of the tribe, were
particularly friendly and quiet. I soon found that family connexions
between several of the principal Tajourah people and the elders of the
Sidee Ahbreu occasioned the good feeling that existed between us. During
our stay at Murroo, a regular fair was held, and at night, singing,
dancing, and clapping hands, kept us up until a very late hour. Every
day we were receiving fresh accounts of the inroads of the Alla and
Hittoo Gallas from the south, who were driving off cattle, and carrying
away the younger women of the Dankalli tribes in their immediate
neighbourhood. This, however, did not interfere with the festivity of
the camp, for other Kafilahs came in to join us from every side, and by
the third day of our stay, we had in company more than one thousand
camels, and could muster above five hundred fighting men. The different
Kafilahs kept to themselves, each taking up such a position as was most
convenient, but never at a greater distance from each other than two
hundred yards.
The next day after we arrived, much to my surprise, for I thought him
far enough away, Durtee Ohmed reported himself, and looked somewhat the
better for the late stirring business he had been upon; for, instead of
having but one eye, according to the description I recollected to have
been given by Lieut. Barker, he had two quite as good as my own. I
mentioned this to Ebin Izaak who had accompanied him, as he then
explained, for fear any mistake might arise from this circumstance, and
that I should refuse to give him the present, on account of the
discrepancy in the appearance of the claimant, from what had been
represented to be the case. He was also ready to swear on the Koran as
to the identity of the man, and although not perfectly satisfied, still,
as I had not been cheated extraordinarily by Ebin Izaak, I thought I
would receive his testimony on this occasion, so gave the man three
dollars, with which he went away perfectly satisfied.
Several messengers arrived from other Kafilahs on the road, all desiring
us not to move until they had joined us. I was not sorry for the
detention, having derived much benefit in my health since we reached
Murroo. I was also nearly naturalized among the Dankalli, who had become
accustomed to my complexion, and as for my clothes, they were not very
different, either in hue or condition, from theirs. My yellow Arab frock
was no novel thing to the Tajourah people, and a few days’ journey
through the thorny jungle, and a few nights’ repose upon the ground,
soon took the respectability out of it, and I was as ragged as any lover
of freedom, or of nature, would ever desire to be. My broad-brimmed hat
was considered a great curiosity, and greasy heads of males and females,
would frequently try it on to see how it would fit. One of the old women
too, pulled on my boots, the tops of which scarcely came up to the
bottom of her skin petticoat. A chase was made after her, for she
started off with them, and so long was she in returning, that I began
seriously to think, she had run away with them under pretence of sport.
The Sidee Ahbreu were certainly the most lively and least quarrelsome of
any of the tribes I had yet seen. Neither was this friendship purchased,
for having disposed of everything I could well part with, I took care
that they should know it by oft-repeated assertions that I had given all
away upon the previous march. The good resulting from this was, that I
had fewer beggars to satisfy in this place than anywhere else.
My stay with these people, led me to form a much better opinion of the
character of the Dankalli, than I previously had done. Whether I had
become accustomed to my situation, or really liked the life I was
leading, I do not know; but, for one or the other reason, I enjoyed
myself more here than anywhere else, during the long period I had been
absent from England.
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