Staying at Herhowlee.—Dankalli sell their female children for
slaves.—Pillar of sand and cloud of fire indications of rain.—Engage
escort of thirty Hy Soumaulee. Comparison between modern Dankalli and
ancient Blemmyes.—_April 26th_, Journey from Herhowlee to Barradudda,
general direction S.S.W.; time marching two hours.—Description of
halting-place.—Religious discussion with Ohmed Medina.
_April 24th._—A beautiful morning, air fresh and cool, and I was
disappointed at there being no start. We were staying, I believe, to
give the camels a rest. All this day I kept in my hut amusing myself by
projecting a map from the information I had received of the surrounding
country, including Owssa and the lakes of the Hawash. On showing it to
Ohmed Medina for his confirmation of the particulars, he was much
pleased with the attempt, and begged me to make a copy for him. This map
quite restored me to his good opinion, as to the extent of my knowledge,
which had been somewhat shaken by my ignorance of the vegetable, he had
gathered for me the day before, and which turned out to be most
excellent. I should observe, that I have since learnt that it is the
common Barjee of Indian bazaars, and Ohmed Medina was quite right
therefore in the statement he made of its being a favourite food of the
Banyans, and it indicated no little observation on his part, to have
noticed that circumstance.
Garahmee to-day left us to pay a short visit to his family, who lived in
a kraal some miles to the north, in the direction of Owssa. As he
expected a present upon the occasion, I gave him a couple of coloured
handkerchiefs for his two wives. It is very seldom that a Dankalli
Bedouin has more than one help-mate; but Garahmee, making great
pretensions to a godly life, like a pious Mahomedan, had added another
wife to his establishment. The precepts of his religion being so far
practised, his virtue was rewarded, by the profit arising from the sale
of his more numerous offspring; having just been to Tajourah, to
conclude a bargain for his youngest and only remaining daughter. He had
on previous occasions disposed of two elder ones, and before he left
Herhowlee, he came to me again and offered for three dollars, to bring
me the daughter of some friend who, he said, had one to dispose of, but
I have no doubt, he intended to steal the girl, had I consented to the
business.
To-day I witnessed a very interesting proof of the great similarity
between the climate and physical character of this country, and that
through which Moses led the Israelites in their flight from Egypt. About
noon, a sudden stir among the Kafilah people, induced me to leave my hut
to see what could be the matter; every one was running about for mats
and skins, with which they covered in a great hurry the heaps of
salt-bags, that surrounded the encampment. Those who had charge of the
stores of the Embassy, were equally busy in protecting the boxes and
packages, from a storm which was fast approaching, for on looking
towards the east I saw, with astonishment, the sky in that direction
quite dark, with one vast cloud of wind, and the red sand borne up
before it. Its rotary motion was very evident, although the whirlwind,
as it really was, was too large and too near to be seen distinctly as a
separate body, which it might have been at some little distance. It
advanced towards the camp at the rate of about ten or twelve miles an
hour, but as numbers were now shouting to me to get under cover, and I
did not know exactly what effects to anticipate, I made a dive into my
hut, and wrapping my head and face up in my handkerchief to prevent
inhaling more of the fine sand than could be avoided, I awaited the
result. In a few moments afterwards, the strength of the wind passed
over us, whirling the roof of my hut, along with the mats covering the
salt, high up in the air, and scattering them far and wide over the
plain. The heavy stones that had been placed upon them to prevent such
an occurrence being rolled off, sometimes upon the prostrate Kafilah
men, who lay under the sides of the salt heaps, which they had hoped
would have served as a kind of shielding from the blinding and choking
sand. A few drops of rain, and some distant claps of thunder,
accompanied this phenomenon. In a few minutes, the sky clearing, the
short silence of the camp gave way to a burst of shouting and laughing,
as the people chased the retiring column, in pursuit of their flying
mats and ropes. I got out of my retreat, and saw moving towards the
west, an immense pillar of sand, reaching from earth to heaven, in form
and size exactly like the huge water-spouts I have seen out at sea, off
the island of Ceylon.
On asking Ohmed Medina respecting these sand spouts, and whether they
were common in Adal, he told me, that sometimes twenty or thirty of
them, might be seen at once upon extensive plains which admitted of
their formation, and added, that they were always accompanied by rain,
and with the sheet lightning in the horizon by night, and that these
signs, directed the Bedouins to situations, where they would not fail to
find water for their flocks. This was a most interesting fact for me to
learn, evidently proving, as it does, that the goodness of heaven was
not especially devoted to the comfort and happiness of the Israelites
alone, as with some little national vanity, and more ignorance of
natural phenomena, these people have ascribed the presence of the pillar
of a cloud by day, and the pillar of fire by night, to be, imagining
them to have been solely created for the purpose of directing them in
their wanderings through the wilderness. We find, however, that in Adal
the same benevolence has there provided for the Dankalli Bedouin,
similar indications for his convenience, in a country where water is
only occasionally found. Moses, very properly led the Israelites to
believe these signs to be, as they really are, miracles of mercy exerted
in the behalf of man, and which still prove, as in the time of that
great leader, that the hand of God is always stretched over his
creatures, to preserve them in situations, where otherwise, they would
be exposed to great privations.
All the evening, Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed were engaged in a great
council; the men of Herhowlee and of the Kafilah, forming one great
circle, between the village and our encampment. Immediately on our
arrival the best understanding had been established between us, and
after the first surprise occasioned by my appearance had worn away, I
was received by the inhabitants of the village, on the same familiar
terms as other people of the Kafilah, and sometimes visited them in
their houses. Here medicine was in great demand, and frequently asked
for in exchange, for the milk and butter which were offered.
The cause of the calahm this evening I found, was the circumstance
becoming known to our Ras ul Kafilah, that a serious quarrel existed
between the Hy Soumaulee and the Wahama, the next tribe on our route to
Shoa. As the treatment of Mahomed Allee, who was a Wahama, when last in
Tajourah, had been exceedingly unfriendly, his tribe had determined to
resent it, and threatened a very hostile reception, to future Tajourah
Kafilahs passing through their country. All this we had been made aware
of, when we met the Kafilah of Mahomed Allee at Sagagahdah, and Ohmed
Mahomed felt a corresponding anxiety, until he was somewhat relieved, by
finding that his friends, the Hy Soumaulee, had also a quarrel with the
same tribe. A large council was accordingly called together this
evening, to determine upon a combined mode of proceeding, to ensure a
safe passage through the country of our common enemy.
The result was, that an additional escort of thirty Hy Soumaulee were
engaged, who were to receive for their services four dollars each man,
to be paid on our arrival in Shoa. After it was all settled, I was
requested to give, the security of my promise for its payment; and as I
was convinced that any expense really necessary to secure the safety of
the stores, would be readily paid on the termination of our journey by
the Mission in Shoa, I did not hesitate to assure them, that they would
certainly receive, on our arrival, what I considered to be, their very
moderate demand. The Hy Soumaulee expressed themselves satisfied, and
two-thirds of the required number were immediately enlisted, who, after
giving their names to be enrolled in my note-book, hastened to their
homes, to make some preparations for the journey.
_April 25th._—We were obliged to remain at Herhowlee all this day, to
allow of some jowahree biscuit being prepared, for the use of the new
escort upon the road. Numerous deliberative calahms were held during the
day, for the Dankalli people cannot do the least public business,
without having a succession of these council-meetings to determine upon
the best course to be adopted.
In these calahms, it is usual for every one to sit down in a large
circle, holding before him his shield, over the top of which the face
alone is visible. In the right hand they hold the spear upright, its
butt-end resting upon the ground. Each has a voice in the assembly, but
it is very seldom that more than two or three of them speak, and the
advice of the elders appears to have the greatest influence. When any
difference of opinion arises, the party in the minority never endeavours
to argue, but either remains silent or retires from the circle, so that
the greatest unanimity always prevails. In case of very different
opinions being supported by influential men, I have seen the two parties
divide into separate rings. Each discuss their own particular views, and
subsequent conferences of the chiefs of either side then determine the
course of action to be adopted. During the whole proceedings the
greatest care is taken to avoid a quarrel. If, however, party feeling
should run unusually high, the precaution of a general peace assembly is
resorted to both before and after the discussion, when every man takes
an oath upon the Koran not to injure the others, so that whilst a number
of tribes are combined together in any general business, it very rarely
happens that a quarrel takes place among them.
With respect to the usual attitude of these people, when sitting in
conversation, or in council, their faces just appearing above the upper
edge of their shields, it struck me that very probably, this might have
given occasion, for the representations made of an Ethiopian people who
had no heads, but whose eyes and mouths were placed upon their breasts.
No other reason can be found to account for the described appearance of
the Blemmyes, and those who have seen the Dankalli sitting behind their
shields, either in council or in battle array, must admit, I think, the
probability that this national and characteristic custom was the
foundation of the ancient report.
_April 26th._—All the Hy Soumaulee being ready to start, our Kafilah
moved off the ground about sunrise. I marched in company with Ohmed
Medina and our numerous escort, over a rich well-watered country for two
hours, till we arrived at the commencement of a large plain, flanked by
flat-topped lava ridges, where it was again resolved to halt for the
day. The plain was called Barradudda, and afforded excellent and
abundant forage for the camels.
It was a beautiful spot which was selected for the encampment, the whole
surface of the earth being one extensive green sward of fresh young
grass. Mimosa-trees there grew to an extraordinary height, festooned
from the topmost branches with a many-flowered climbing plant, which
extending from tree to tree, formed a continued suite of the coolest
bowers. The aditu, also offered its thick shade of round velvet-like
leaves, from amidst which its short white trunk, seemed to represent the
painted tent-pole of some bright green pavilion, of the richest
material. Doves in all directions fled startled at our approach, only to
return immediately, with louder cooing, to the quickly-remembered care
of their young, who, in flat slightly-built nests of dry sticks and
grass, lay crowding to the centre, as if aware of the insecurity of
their frail-built homes. Hares in great numbers bounded from beneath our
feet, and after running a few yards, would turn to gaze again upon the
intruders on the quiet of their retreats, whilst the tall stalking
bustard scarcely deigned to notice our arrival, but seemingly intent
upon his beetle hunt, slowly removed himself from the increasing noise.
The scene was particularly inviting to me after the stones and sand of
the previous few days’ journey, and although our march this morning had
not been long, I was not sorry to learn the determination of the Ras ul
Kafilah to remain here for the day. I soon got my carpet and mats
arranged, borrowed a wooden pillow for my head, and with two or three of
the new escort on one side, and Ohmed Medina on the other, had a long
conversation, as we lay under the trees, upon the subject of religion. I
endeavoured to make Ohmed Medina understand what a good Christian his
Prophet Mahomed was, which was duly interpreted to the amused Bedouins,
who all sat very patiently in an attitude of attention, until sufficient
novel matter had been understood by Ohmed Medina, to interest them in
the recital.
There are few interesting subjects, respecting which so little is
generally known, as the Mahomedan religion. It professes a belief in one
true and only God; and Islamism, apart from the rule of life instituted
by Mahomed, was professed by Abraham, by Isaac, and, according to my
opinion, which is of no value, but as satisfactory to my own conscience,
was also taught by Jesus and his disciples. That our Saviour will appear
again, is the cherished hope of every enlightened Mahomedan, and he
glories in affirming that all the inhabitants of the world will then
become his followers. This is so general an idea, that even the ignorant
Mahomedans of the East, firmly believe that the Amhara, or Christian
population, of Abyssinia, will at a future time seize Mecca, and destroy
the temple. Something similar to this is the expressed fear of the Turks
at the present day, that the Feringees will ultimately take
Constantinople, and put down their religion. Both these popular ideas
originate from the same source, as that which directs the learned Islam
Mollum to expect the coming of Jesus; a tradition respecting Mahomed,
who is stated to have confessed, that inasmuch as that Christ was not
dead but living, and would come again, he was superior to himself, who
was mortal and should die, like other men.
The numerous and fast extending sect, the Whaabbees, act up to this
admission, and not only are they careful, to avoid all allusions to
Mahomed in their prayers, but affect to make intercession in his behalf,
by praying that God will forgive him his great sins; for not only they,
but all other Mahomedans admit that their Prophet was so far from being
immaculate, that he frequently violated the laws which he himself had
promulgated as coming direct from Allah. The Whaabbees, who are
Mahomedan Unitarians, a few years back, overran all Arabia, destroyed
the tomb of Mahomed in Medina, and were about to act in a similar manner
towards the temple in Mecca. The first man, however, who had mounted the
roof for this purpose, by some accident, was precipitated to the ground
and killed. This looked so like a judgment, that the zeal of these
reformers abated considerably, and being soon after driven out of the
Hedjas, and in some measure suppressed, by Mahomed Allee Pacha, this
famous shrine escaped, for some short time, that destruction which I
hope yet to see accomplished.
I need not enter into details of our interesting conversation, which
only terminated with the setting sun. All afternoon we lay discussing
matters of religion until it was fully understood by all that I was a
Christian Whaahbee; and Ohmed Medina taking hold of my beard, drew it
gently through his hand, as he said, that “an Ahkeem with such a promise
of wisdom as that, ought to be altogether a Mussulman.” “Thou almost
persuadest me to be a Christian,” would have been a more gratifying
speech from my Islam companion, but I am no St. Paul.
In my notes upon this conversation, I have remarked that it is my firm
conviction that the believers in one God, who live according to the
moral precepts of the religion of Jesus, is the sect to whom is
reserved, the glory of reuniting in one faith, the present divided
family of man. Unitarianism, is the fore-coming shadow of this to be
universally acknowledged belief, and all who profess its tenets should
reflect, upon the important object committed to their agency, and
encouraged by the high hope, that must result from their thoughts upon
the subject, they will perhaps increase their endeavours to spread more
widely, the principles of faith which they profess.
This observation is inserted solely as a matter of what I conceive to be
duty; I hope, therefore, that thus recording my conviction, a bearing
testimony to what the natural education of circumstances has taught me
to believe to be the truth, will not be charged as presumption;
especially when I feel assured that my omitting it, would be an act of
the grossest ingratitude to my constant Guide and Guard, who has led and
preserved me, through no ordinary difficulties and dangers.
------------------------------------------------------------------------