On the 20th, we marched to visit Cofaay,_Narrative, of a five years' expedition against the Revolted Negroes of Surinam, in Guiana on the Wild Coast of South America; from the year 1772 to 1777 ... Volume 2 (of 2)

negro captive still alive; after removing the branches, he was, at my

earnest intercession, once more carried along with us; but the slaves,

being discontented with such a load, took every opportunity, in my

absence, of torturing him, by knocking him against roots and stones,

and dragging him through mud and water as they went along. Different

patroles were now ordered out to reconnoitre the grounds, while the

remainder of the troops encamped in the west part of Cofaay; and these

patroles discovered no less than four beautiful fields in one chain,

situated due west from Cofaay, well stocked with cassava, yams,

plantains, pistachio nuts, with maize and pigeon peas: also were seen

several human carcases, the relicts of our late engagements in August.

We found here a species of medlars of a crimson colour, and of a taste

very much like that of strawberries. This fruit grows on a large green

shrub, and is cultivated in many gardens at Paramaribo. We also met

with a kind of wild plum-tree called monpe: the fruit is yellow,

oblong, and small; the stone is large, the pulp thin, and though of a

sharp acid has an agreeable flavour.

On the morning of the 21st, all these and every useful vegetable were

cut down, and again destroyed by fire; after which, returning to our

last night’s camp, we found it also in flames, and were obliged to

sling our hammocks in the east skirts of the woods. Here, recollecting

that the poor disabled rebel was left alone, I ran back west to the

burning camp to afford him assistance; but after seeking him in vain

through clouds of smoke and darkness, I was forced to consult my own

safety, by hastily returning to my companions; some blaming me much for

my temerity, others damning the skeleton, whether dead or alive.

The devastation being now compleated, we marched back to Jerusalem,

where on the 24th we arrived perfectly exhausted, and Fourgeoud at last

so ill with a phrenzy fever, that he was confined to his hammock, with

small hopes of surviving the night. But he however still continued to

command, and the next morning ordered a marine to be bastonaded, for

asking shoes, although he was bare-footed, and his feet tore to pieces;

while another was flogged for coughing, who had a severe cold; a

captain was dismissed from actual service, and confined in Fort

Zealandia, for having dared to marry without his consent.—Sickness and

death now raged through the camp, and every thing was in the utmost

confusion.

To compleat the whole, on the 1st of November, twenty-five more negro

slaves ran away; and on the 3d we received intelligence that no less

than fifty armed rebels had been seen swimming across the River

Cottica, about a musket-shot above Barbacoeba.

In consequence of this information, Colonel Seyburg was detached, with

the few men that remained able to carry arms, who through distress and

famine were now almost ready to attack their own officers; and who

being unsupplied with their favourite luxury, tobacco [13], sat smoking

grey paper, and chewing leaves and leather as a substitute for the want

of it. Few men, however, were worse off than I was at this time; since,

having neither provisions nor cloaths, I was almost naked as well as

starved, with a running ulcer in my left foot, ever since the ambuscade

and march to Pirica; nor had I a friend in the camp who could give me

the smallest assistance. To compleat my misery, the little blood I had

remaining was in two successive nights again nearly sucked away by the

vampire-bat, or spectre: thus I fainted away in my hammock, and was

almost sorry to recover, particularly upon being informed by a letter

that Joanna and her boy were dying with a putrid fever at Paramaribo.

At last, on the 12th, Serjeant Fowler arrived from Mocha, with one of

my boxes; when this poor fellow, notwithstanding my situation, made me

laugh aloud by producing a letter from his mother in Europe, which made

him extremely happy; and which I must beg leave verbatim to transcribe.

“Dair Shonny,

“I have relaved your girl from the Bridevail—and your shits from

the panbroker—the baby is died—blessed be Goat, while I hop yow be

living. I am your laffing mother tell death,

Maggy Fowler.”

The same evening Colonel Seyburg’s party returned, without having

obtained any further intelligence.

On the 14th Colonel Fourgeoud was so dangerously ill, that he at length

was obliged to relinquish his command, and proceed to town for his

recovery. Accordingly on the 15th, he set out by water for Paramaribo:

thus, after having sacrificed all his troops, he became himself finally

a victim to his unbounded ambition and obstinate perseverance in this

worst of all climates, while by toiling less and living better both he

and his soldiers might have rendered the colony, if not superior, at

least an equal service.—A barge loaded with sick and dying was at the

same time once more sent to the hospital at Devil’s Harwar.

The command of the remaining scarecrows now devolved upon the

Lieutenant Colonel, who (strange to tell!) that very evening inherited

the same distemper, as well as the chief command; the barge that rowed

off the old hero having but just disappeared, when this gentleman was

attacked also by the phrenzy fever; the above complaint was indeed at

this time very common amongst all ranks and degrees who were broiling

under a burning sun at Jerusalem; it being the dry season, when we

ought to have been in the woods—but for those expeditions, as I have

stated before, the rainy seasons were most unhappily preferred. Several

officers would have before now thrown up their military commissions,

could they with decency have taken such a measure, during an expedition

on actual service; nor, in my opinion, ought such to be granted, cases

of the very greatest necessity excepted. I could myself have wished to

go for some time to Paramaribo, but as this favour was not offered me,

while all the others, and even the slaves, were relieved, I scorned to

petition for it while I was able to stand.

On the 19th, however, my foot became so bad, that the surgeon reported

me unfit for duty; yet I still remained in the camp, where I could be

to none of any service.

A supply of fresh troops, slaves, and provisions being arrived on the

20th, Major Medlar, with 150 men, was detached to make new discoveries.

Among other plagues, the whole camp at this time swarmed with locusts,

which appeared every where in most formidable troops, devouring every

thing that lay in their way. Indeed the curse of Heaven seemed to visit

us here in various shapes, and every vermin were so plenty at this

time, that no exertion could keep us perfectly free. These locusts were

brown, two inches in length, and shaped like a grasshopper; they did

not fly, but crawled by millions on the very tables and seats as we sat

at dinner, and at night they tormented us by crawling over our faces by

scores.

The only desirable article we found at Jerusalem was fish, of which we

seldom wanted plenty, particularly newmara and warrappa, also the

patakee, and the old wifee, both very excellent; the former of which is

about two feet long, shaped like a whiting, the other is the size of a

large perch. A kind of needle-fish, called naaynaay-fisee, was found

here in great abundance, these were very thin, and about one foot in

length; also a kind of dung-fish, about the size of a small herring,

but these two last were only used by the negroes.

On the 3d of December, Major Medlar’s party returned, after fourteen

days absence, with a captive rebel woman and her boy about eight years

old, taken in a small field of bitter cassava. The poor woman was

pregnant, and under great alarms, but was tenderly treated by Medlar,

who was always a humane and well-disposed gentleman. He had, however,

unluckily lost two of his best men, one Schoelar, a corporal, the other

called Philip Van den Bos, a private marine, who having inadvertently

eaten a few roots of the above bitter cassava were poisoned, and died

during the same night with the most excruciating pain and convulsions:

the antidote is said to be Cayenne pepper and spirits, neither of which

were at that time to be procured.

The black woman confirmed the account that Bonny had been wounded; she

also told us the poor starved negro we had found was called Isaac, and

had been left for dead. That one Captain Arico had formed a new

settlement near the sea, called Fissy-Hollo; while Bonny, she assured

us, maintained the strictest discipline amongst his troops: he was, she

said, absolutely despotic, and had executed two of his men but three

days before we took Gado-Saby, viz. during the night of the 17th

August, when we heard the firing and shouting, only upon suspicion of

having hinted some few words in favour of the Europeans, and were the

heads which we found stuck on the stakes. She further assured us, that

none of his people were trusted with arms, until they had first served

him some years as slaves, and given him unquestionable proofs of

fidelity and resolution. But these, she observed, were but few in

number, when compared to his numerous vassals, who were bound to do

without murmuring whatever he thought proper to command them; yet that

he still was more beloved than he was feared, on account of his

inflexible justice and manly courage.

On the 4th December, this poor woman and her boy were sent to

Paramaribo, with Ensign de Cabanus, who had taken them: he had at the

same time nearly seized a young girl about fifteen, who by her great

agility, and being stark naked, slipped out of his hands:

——“Fugit ocior aurâ

Illa levi: neque ad hæc revocantis verba resistit:

Nympha, precor, Peneia, mane: non insequor hostis.

Nympha, mane.”——

Ovid.

It being proved at the court that the above woman had been forcibly

carried off by the rebels, though many years before, the poor creature

was pardoned, and joyfully returned with her child to her master’s

plantation. It is remarkable, that when the boy saw the first cow or

horse he almost fell into convulsions with terror; nor could he bear to

be touched by any white person, whom he never had seen before, and whom

he constantly called Yorica, which in his language signifies the devil.

About this time a dead sea-cow, or manatee, by the French called

Lamantin, floating past Jerusalem, the negro slaves fell upon it, like

so many crows upon a carrion, swimming round it, some with a rusty

knife, some with a bill-hook, and each carrying off a slice for his

dinner; at last they dragged the stinking animal on shore, of which I

instantly took a drawing. This manatee was exactly sixteen feet long,

almost shapeless, being an enormous lump of fat, tapering backwards to

a fleshy, broad, horizontal tail. It had a thick round head, a flattish

snout, large nostrils, with strong bristles both on its nose and chin,

small eyes, and auditory holes instead of ears. Instead of feet, it had

two excrescences or fleshy fins, like those of the sea-turtle,

projecting near its head; with these it swims, and moves awkwardly to

eat the grass on the banks of the rivers, being an amphibious animal.

The colour was a greenish black; the skin was hard and uneven, covered

with large knobs, circular wrinkles, and with a very few stiff hairs

thinly scattered. It had grinders but no fore-teeth, and a very short

tongue. The sea-cow or manatee is, like the whale, a viviparous animal,

the female suckling its young by the help of its swimmers. They are

very numerous in the river Amazons; their flesh, it is said, resembles

veal, and is very good food. This was, however, too far advanced in a

state of putridity, for me to taste it. It had the marks of being twice

shot, which must have been by the rebels on the 27th, when we heard the

report of two muskets at a distance.

As I am once more on the subject of natural history, I shall describe

another amphibious animal, called the tapira, which bears some distant

resemblance to the hippopotamus of the old continent, but it is a great

deal less. This creature is about the size of a small ass, but much

more clumsy. The head is not unlike that of a horse, but the upper lip

much longer, projecting something like the proboscis of an elephant,

and is also moveable, but too short to be of use, as is the trunk of

that animal; the ears are short, the tusks strong, and sometimes

visible, the mane is bristly and erect, the limbs are low and strong,

with a kind of hoof divided into four claws, and the tail is thick and

short, like that of the elephant. The skin of this creature is

excessively thick, of a brown colour, and when young it is marked with

white spots, like those of the stag or paca, proceeding in longitudinal

rows. It feeds on grass, and other herbs that grow in watery places,

and is so shy, that when alarmed by the smallest noise it plunges under

water, also like the paca, for security, where it remains for a

considerable time. The flesh of the tapira is delicate, being accounted

superior to the best ox-beef.—See both the above animals in the annexed

plate.

A Mr. Selefelder, of the Society service, at this time assured me, that

he saw quite a different river-horse in the River Marawina; and Major

Abercromby, of the same service, declared, that a mermaid was lately

seen in the River Surinam. Lord Monboddo also positively affirms the

existence of sea-women and sea-men, while he asserts that they were

seen so late as 1720. But, however respectable his lordship’s judgment

and authority may be on other subjects, I can no more agree with him,

as to men and women having fins and scales, than to their having tails.

The plain fact, in my humble opinion, is this, that in many rivers

between the Tropics, both on the coast of Africa and South America, a

fish sometimes appears half above the water, that bears a distant

resemblance of the human species, but is smaller, nearly such as in

1794 was exhibited in London. The colour is of a blackish green; the

head is round, with a deformed kind of a face; a strong fin runs from

near the eyes to the middle of the back, which something resembles

flowing hair: and the two supposed arms and hands, are two fleshy fins,

or rather digitated swimmers; the female has breasts assuredly like a

woman’s, being a viviparous animal; while the tail is exactly that of a

fish, in most of which properties it agrees with the seal, but this

last has no fin along the back, and is considerably larger, while it

never appears erect above the water, like the former. The above

information I had from several old negroes and Indians, who all agreed

perfectly in the description; some added, that they sang, which I

apprehend to be no other than a grunting noise which they emit like

most other tropical fish and amphibious animals.

They concluded by assuring me, that though they were scarce, nothing

was more dreaded by their wives and children, than the Watra Mama,

which signifies the mother of the waters; and by which name, strange to

tell, they distinguish their Sybils.—So much for the monsters of the

deep; and now I shall once more return to those infesting Terra Firma.

I have just mentioned, that, on account of a very bad foot, I had been

returned unfit for duty by the surgeon, on the 19th of November; yet

this day, December 5th, another surgeon, with two captains, and the

adjutant, were sent to inspect both me and Captain Perret, who was also

sick. The surgeon gave his declaration upon oath, that we were

incapable of walking without danger, much more of undergoing fatigue;

but Seyburg, who was still in his phrenzy fever, declared we should

instantly enter the woods, though he should see us carried in two

wheel-barrows. Poor Captain Perret complied to turn out, though he

looked like a ghost, and could scarcely stand; but I solemnly swore

that I would blow out the first man’s brains who dared disrespectfully

to touch me: in consequence of which I was close guarded by a sentinel;

while the whole camp, upon my soul, now seemed to be composed of none

but madmen.

On the 11th we received intelligence that a number of armed rebels had

been just seen opposite to Devil’s Harwar, and afterwards informed they

were upon their retreat from the Comawina River, where on the 5th they

had burnt to ashes the dwelling-house of the estate Killestyn Nova,

with Mr. Slighter the overseer in it, ransacked the whole plantation,

killed and carried off thirty-three women, and chopped off the limb of

a male mulatto child, to be revenged of its father; and that the Pirica

rangers were in pursuit of them. Captain Fredericy also arrived this

day, who had exchanged from the Society troops into Colonel Fourgeoud’s

regiment of marines, and confirmed to us the above unhappy news.

About this time, after having starved four months, my remaining stores

arrived at last from Mocha, but three-fourths rotted and destroyed by

the blata or cockroaches: the remaining part I distributed among the

sick people. But what proved truly acceptable, was the cheering account

that Joanna and Johnny were past danger, and recovering at Paramaribo.

This intelligence indeed so elevated my spirits, that the next morning

I reported myself fit for duty, though God knows that I was not; and to

this I was the more induced by the want of fresh air, of which I was

perfectly debarred in my confinement, and stood so much in need. The

same evening a boat full of Caribbee Indians rowed up Cormoetibo, for

the River Marawina, by the communication of the Wana Creek.

In eight days more, which was the 20th of December, being actually

recovered of the wound in my foot, and Seyburg of his phrenetic fever,

another officer and I played him the following trick, for his bad

usage. Having invited this gentleman, with his adjutant, and a few

more, to see us act a farce by candle-light, we affected to quarrel,

and beating out the candle, the door being well secured, laid on in the

dark with such success upon a certain somebody’s shoulders, that,

calling out Murder! he leaped out at the window. Nothing ever gave me

greater entertainment than to perceive his agility; but Colonel Seyburg

declared he would never more to our play be a spectator.

At this time orders arrived from Colonel Fourgeoud, who was also

better, to break up our camp at Jerusalem, and march once more to the

Wana Creek. In consequence the sick were again sent down in barges to

the hospital at Devil’s Harwar, which was nearly full, while several

were labouring under a disease something like the tympany, called here

the kook, being a prodigious hardness and swelling in the belly,

occasioned, it is said, by drinking muddy water without spirits, which

was indeed our daily and general beverage.

On the 22d, at six o’clock in the morning, we all decamped, and

scrambled up along the banks of the Cormoetibo Creek, through a perfect

bog, while one poor negro, who had his head fractured, was left behind,

and another knocked over-board one of the barges, who was drowned.

We this day again saw great numbers of pingoes or warree-hogs, which as

usual breaking through our line, were cut down by sabres and stabbed,

while some ran off with the bayonets sticking in their hams.

This march was peculiarly disagreeable, upon account of the heavy

rains, which now began to fall down in torrents, overflowing the banks

of all the rivers; and so cold were the damps in the morning,

contrasted with the late warm days, that we frequently lay shivering in

our hammocks as in frost, especially when sleeping in wet cloaths. This

inconvenience, however, I obviated to day by marching half naked, like

the rangers, and putting my shirt in one of the reversed kettles,

during the rain—thus my skin soon drying, after a shower, I again put

on my linen, and found myself much more comfortable than any of my

trembling ghastly looking companions.

On the evening of the 23d, we encamped near a rivulet called the

Caymans or Alligator Creek; where a tree called Monbiara afforded some

excellent fruit, but this was entirely stripped by the slaves before I

could either taste or even see it in perfection.

The rains continuing to pour down in a deluge, I again marched stripped

on the 24th, and we slung our hammocks in the evening, near a brook

called Yorica, or the Devil’s Creek, where we made huts or sheds to

cover us, and stowed the provisions upon rafters.

On the following day we once more laboured through deep mud and water,

in very heavy rains, and encamped at another small brook, called the

Java Creek, three miles below the Wana.

On the 26th I was selected, with a small party, to reconnoitre the old

camps at Wana Creek. In the evening we returned, half swimming through

mud and water, and having literally seen nothing, except some birds and

curious trees, which I cannot pass unnoticed. The birds were called the

Cromback, the Camawarry, and the Crocro. The first is a kind of large

snipe, the size of a woodcock, with a crooked bill. The second is also

a water fowl, but three times as large as the first: on account of

their swiftness, and disappearing in a moment, I can give but a very

imperfect description of them. The Crocro is something less than our

ravens, and I believe of the same species, being one of the most

voracious birds of the carnivorous tribe; in Guiana it is of a dark

blue colour, has a remarkably strong bill and limbs, and croaks

excessively loud and disagreeably, especially by night. The trees were

what the negroes called the Matakee, and the Markoory. The first is

remarkable for its roots, which spread above the ground in such a

manner, that they will conceal a score of men from each other; nay so

large are they sometimes, that a horseman may ride through between the

interstices, and one single piece is sufficient to make a table large

enough to hold twelve people.

For a better idea of this wonderful tree, I refer the reader to the

annexed plate; where I have placed it upon the opposite shore of the

encampment at Jerusalem. In the same plate, he is also presented with a

fair-weather view of the camp at Java Creek.

The other tree, called the Markoory, is truly formidable on account of

its poisonous qualities, which are of such a subtle nature, that the

very smoke of this wood, when on fire, is fatal to those animals that

receive it into their lungs; this is always seen to grow by itself, as

it infallibly kills every thing around it, nay even the slaves refuse

to cut it down on the plantations, so much are they afraid of touching,

or of even coming near to it. The Markoory is low, ugly, and uneven,

with very few branches, and a pale verdure. I have been told that some

of the Indians render their arrows fatal by dipping the barbs of them

in its sap.

On the 27th, another patrole was sent out, but to no better purpose

than the first. I have mentioned that my foot was recovered, and so it

was, but I had now extracted out of my right arm two dreadful insects,

which left behind them very deep ulcers. These are called in Surinam

the bush-worms, and are the shape and size of the aurelia of the common

butterfly, with a pointed tail and black head. They stuck extremely

fast in the flesh, and were extracted with a lancet. They breed

naturally in stagnated waters, in marching constantly through which

they had attached themselves to my flesh.

My heart now began to sink with accumulated disasters; my mind was

agitated and depressed with a constant train of tortures, to which I

could see no end, and I became weary of life. In this dreadful

situation I fell upon my naked knees, and invoked the malediction of

Heaven to fall on me, if I did not separate myself from my present

commanders and this service, the first honourable opportunity that

should offer itself;—how religiously I have persevered in observing

this vow, shall be seen in the sequel of these pages, before I take my

final farewell of my readers.

The place of our present encampment was now intolerable beyond every

description, being constantly overflowed, so that the ammunition and

provisions were stowed for preservation on wooden rafts; nor could we

step out of our hammocks without being up to the knees in mud and

water, where it was most shallow, while the gnats and other insects

devoured us alive. The consequence of all which was, that another barge

full of dying wretches was sent down the Cormoetibo Creek, bound for

the hospital at Devil’s Harwar; among whom the poor old negro with his

fractured skull, who had only yesterday rejoined us in his shocking

condition. This floating charnel-house weighed anchor on the last day

of the year 1775—with which I shall beg leave to conclude this gloomy

chapter.

CHAP. XXIV.

Two Volunteer Companies raised of free Mulattoes and

Negroes—Description of the Arrowouka Indian Nation—Colonel

Fourgeoud’s Regiment receives orders to sail for

Europe—Countermanded—Re-enter the Woods—Trade of the

Colony—Description of a Cacao Estate—Sample of Sable Heroism.

To what good star I was obliged, in the midst of all our confusion and

distress, I know not, but certain it is, that Colonel Seyburg having

sent for me on the first day of the new year, not only solicited my

future friendship, but declared he was sorry for all the ill-treatment

he had ever occasioned me, for which he principally blamed Mr. Gibhart,

his adjutant and spy; then taking me by the hand, as a proof of his

real regard, permitted me from that moment to go to Paramaribo, or

wherever I pleased, to refresh and refit until further orders; which

had such an effect on me, that having instantly converted every drop of

my rum into grog, we sat down, together with two other officers, and

drowned all former animosity in oblivion, till we could hardly see each

other. In this condition I took my leave that very evening of my new

friend and the camp at Java Creek, and rowed down in the best spirits

for Paramaribo.

Next morning, having slept during most of the passage, I breakfasted at

Devil’s Harwar, where I found that the unfortunate Gibhart had just set

sail for the other world. In the evening we arrived at the estate

Beekvlied, as my negroes had made extraordinary dispatch, summing

wattra [14] all the time to encourage each other.

On the 3d I arrived at the fortress Amsterdam, where I was entertained

with an excellent fish dinner, and where I must again intreat the

reader’s patience, while I attempt to describe the different species,

viz. the passessy, prare-prare, provost, and curema. The passary is

above two feet long, and weighs sometimes twenty pounds: the head is

broad and flat; it has two long barbs, and no scales, and is very

delicate eating. The prare-prare is about the same size, and equally

good. The provost is large, often five feet, and of a yellowish colour;

the flesh of this is less agreeable, but the oil it produces comes to

good account. As for the curema, this is a species of mullet, sometimes

above two feet in length, with large silvery eyes, and the under jaw

longer than the upper. Near this place are also found a kind of

sea-snails, of which Madam Merian makes mention; and the fore-part of

which exactly resembles those of a shrimp.

In the evening at six o’clock I arrived once more at Paramaribo, and

found Joanna with her little boy perfectly well, after having both been

blind for above three weeks; with whom being now invited to lodge, at

the house of my friend Mr. De Graaf, I was completely happy.

The following day I dined with Colonel Fourgeoud, who now also was as

sound as ever, and who gave me a very indifferent meal of salt

provisions [15], but an uncommonly hearty welcome. He acquainted me

that two new companies of free mulattoes, and two of free negroes, all

volunteers, had just been raised; that the Serameca and Owca negroes

encouraged and favoured the rebels, and were deceitful rascals; that a

few rebels had been killed in the Cassiwinica Creek; and that he was in

hopes of rooting out Fissy Hollo; that Bonny, with his people, were

almost starving in the forest, notwithstanding their late depredations,

which could not last much longer; and that he was fully determined, if

he should lose his last man, to make this rebel surrender, or harass

him till he and his gang, through hunger and distress, should be

obliged to quit the colony. I learned further from him, that a

Frenchman had just escaped hanging for betraying the state of the

fortifications, &c. to the governor of Cayenne; that he had pardoned

Captain Tulling for his clandestine marriage; and that Lieutenant

Colonel de Borgnes was just entered into matrimony with a rich widow, a

Mrs. Crawford.

The Colonel, in a word, was now quite the reverse of what he had been

before, and upon the whole so very agreeable in his manners, that I

would never wish to spend my time in better company; but how I should

become at once the favourite of both these rival commanders, was a

secret I could never yet discover, unless it might proceed from a

desire of gaining me from each other, as they still continued mutual

enemies: be that as it may, I resolved to preserve the most inflexible

neutrality, as I also did between them and the governor, where I was

invited next day, and dined not on salt-beef, but found as usual a

truly magnificent entertainment.

Thus I continued daily visiting my friends, viz. Mrs. Godefroy, the

Demellys, the Gordons, the Mac Neyls, &c. I also spent a very agreeable

day with the black Mrs. Sampson, or Zubly, who was now a widow.

I was present too at a mulatto ball, composed however not of slaves,

but of free independant settlers. Here the music, the lights, the

country dances, the supper, and, above all, the dresses were so superb,

and their behaviour so decent and genteel, that the whole might serve

as a model for decorum and etiquette to some of the fairer and more

polished inhabitants.

On the 20th, observing a number of Indians and black people of both

sexes swimming at the back of Fort Zelandia, young Donald Mac Neyl and

myself compleated the groupe, by stripping and getting in among them;

and I must confess I never beheld more surprising feats of activity in

the water, than were performed by the negroes, who fought a sham

battle, by plunging or rather tumbling like porpoises, when they struck

each other with their legs, as they never used their hands; while the

Indians, who were of the Arrowouka nation, swam and dived like

amphibious animals.

Being sufficiently refreshed, we sat down upon the beach, near the

twenty-one gun battery, where I had an opportunity of examining the

features and figure of one of their young females, as she approached

us, like Venus rising out of the sea. These people being very different

from all the other Indian nations that I have already described, I

shall embrace the opportunity of fulfilling my promise, and giving a

particular account of them.—In the first place, the skin of the young

woman who was now emerging clean from the river, and divested of

arnotta-paint, appeared much fairer than the copper-colour of the other

Indians; neither were her limbs deformed by those strait-laced

bracelets or cotton-bands so much in use with the rest; nor did her

hair hang down, but was neatly plaited close round the crown of her

head, and fastened in the centre with a broad silver plate [16]. Her

only dress consisted, both during the time she bathed and after, of a

small square apron made of beads, as I have mentioned before: in every

other respect she was perfectly naked: nor could a finer figure be

imagined—erect, vigorous, active, young, and healthy, which convinced

me that when the body is exposed, as it certainly was ordained by

nature, the face is but little noticed.

“——Such as Arcadian song

Transmits from ancient uncorrupted Time;

When tyrant Custom had not shackled Man,

But free to follow Nature was the mode.”

In her features was displayed that beautiful simplicity, that native

unsuspecting innocence, which cannot be put on where there is the

slightest consciousness of guilt. Nor is the olive-colour incompatible

with beauty, it is certainly the standard complexion of the human race,

while the black and white are supposed to be only gradations, produced

probably by the extremes of heat and cold. As this Indian girl was

perfectly handsome, so she seemed to be perfectly happy.—“Happiness,”

as the Abbe Reynal wisely observes, “is more frequently found in a pure

state of nature, than in that of the most refined civilization.” To be

sure an European woman would blush to her fingers ends at the very idea

of appearing publicly stark naked; but education and prejudice are

every thing, since it is an axiom, that where there is no feeling of

self-reproach, there can assuredly be no shame.

I remember to have seen an Indian youth, whose name was Weekee, at

Bergen-op-Zoom, where he was brought over from the colony Berbicè with

General Desalve, who cloathed and partly civilized him: amongst other

things, he learned cookery, and to be something of a taylor, at his own

request, that he might be enabled to provide both for his back and his

belly. After some time however, expressing a desire to return to the

colony, he no sooner touched American ground, than stripping himself of

his lumber, he launched naked into his native woods, where he ended his

days as he had begun them, amongst his beloved countrymen and

companions; like the Hottentot mentioned by Rousseau, in his celebrated

Discours sur l’Inegalité & Conditions, &c.——But to return to the

girl:—She had with her a live parrot, which she had stunned with a

blunt arrow from her bow, and for which I gave her a double-bladed

knife [17]. So wonderfully expert are the Arrowouka Indians at this

exercise, that they frequently bring down a macaw in full flight, or

even a pigeon.

I cannot conclude these remarks without adding a few words concerning

the unspotted moral character of these people, who not only live in

peace with most of the other Indian nations, but are peculiarly

attached to the Europeans, while these in return profess for them the

strongest esteem.

As a proof of their gratitude, I will only relate one instance:—Some

years ago an Indian woman being at Paramaribo, and far advanced in a

state of pregnancy, a Mr. Van der Mey humanely ordered his servants to

conduct her and her husband into his house, where, giving them a

private apartment, and every other conveniency, he wished them

good-night. Before the next morning the woman was delivered; but when

the servants went in to renew their offers of friendship, neither man,

wife, nor child were to be found, as they had before day-break quietly

marched into the forest [18]. Various were at this time the conjectures

concerning the boasted integrity of the Arrowouka Indians, until, no

less than eighteen months after, the same Indian returned to Mr. Van

der Mey, with a charming captive boy of the Accawau nation, that he had

taken in battle [19]; and whom presenting to his benefactor, he only

said, “That’s yours,” and without waiting for any answer

disappeared.—For this slave the above gentleman was offered £. 200,

which he refused, and treated him as well as if he had been free.

The education these people receive in their infancy being according to

the dictates only of simple nature, their minds or their bodies are

very seldom deformed, while a too nice attention to either is possibly

as detrimental as a total neglect. The ingenious Dr. Bancroft is of the

same opinion, which he supports (I think needlessly) by a quotation

from Quintilian.

Though the Arrowouka Indians live in perfect friendship and harmony

with us, and indeed with most of their neighbours, they yet sometimes

go to war when provoked, as I have just observed; in these combats they

use bows and arrows, and the club called abowtow [20]; but they do not

eat their prisoners like the Caribbee Indians, who even devoured the

negroes whom they killed at the insurrection in Berbicè.

Notwithstanding these people live at a greater distance from the sea

than the Warrows, &c. yet they have canoes, sometimes fourscore feet in

length, in which they paddle down the rivers. The Arrowouka Indians

particularly are great herbalists, and for all external accidents have

recourse to simples, with which the woods of all Terra Firma

abound.——But to proceed:

On the 25th I was seized with a fever, and blooded in the foot, in

which the orifice being struck too deep, for struck it was as they

bleed the horses, I again became lame; during which time Colonel

Seyburg arrived from the Java Creek to recover, he being at last also

taken very ill.

In the mean time Colonel Fourgeoud, while he was just ready to renew

his operations, having already sent a small detachment to the Jew

Savannah for intelligence, received letters from the Hague, with

express orders to abandon the expedition immediately, and with his few

remaining troops to sail for Holland without delay.

In consequence of these commands on the 27th, the transport ships were

put in commission, and all the officers and privates received their

clearance, which made them very happy; and indeed all at Paramaribo

were alive with joy, except some of the inhabitants and myself.

On the 14th of February, ill as I was with a bad foot, a sore arm, the

prickly heat, and all my teeth loose with the scurvy, I found means to

scramble out on crutches, with a thousand florins in my pocket, which

having divided between Fourgeoud and Mrs. Godefroy for the redemption

of the black boy Quaco, and my mulatto, I returned home without a

shilling in my purse; yet for this small sum of 500 florins, so

inadequate to 1800 which I owed that lady, she was induced generously

to renew her persuasions of carrying Joanna and the boy with me to

Holland. This, however, Joanna as nobly as firmly refused, declaring,

“that, independant of all other considerations, she could never think

of sacrificing one benefactor to the interest of another; and that her

own happiness or even mine, which was dearer to her than life, should

never have any weight, till the debt of her liberty was paid by me, or

by her own industry, to the utmost fraction, and which she did not

despair to see one day compleated.” She added, “our separation should

only be for a time, and that the greatest proof I could ever shew her

of my real esteem, was now to undergo this little trial of fortune like

a man, without so much as heaving a sigh in her presence;” which last

she spoke with a smile, next embraced her infant, then turned suddenly

round, and wept most bitterly.—At this moment I was called to Mr. de la

Mare’s, who was just dead, where my melancholy having surpassed all

description, I at last determined to weather one or two painful years

in her absence; and in the afternoon went to dissipate my mind at a Mr.

Roux’s cabinet of Indian curiosities; where, as my eye chanced to fall

on a rattle-snake, I will before I leave the colony describe this

dangerous reptile.

The rattle-snake of Surinam is sometimes eight or nine feet long, and

very thick about the middle, tapering towards the neck and tail. The

head is dreadfully deformed, being flat and broad, with two large

nostrils near the snout, and a large scale or knob like the alligator

above his eyes, which are jet-black and sparkling; at the extremity of

the tail are several thin horny shells joined together, which are very

dry, and which, when irritated, the animal shakes, sounding much like a

rattle, from which it derives its name. These shells augment, it is

said, in the proportion of one every year, by which it is supposed its

age may be ascertained. This whole snake is covered over with scales,

which on the ridge of the back it erects. The colour is a dirty orange

mixed with dark-brown and black spots, which last are also on its head,

appearing like velvet, and marked in a very conspicuous manner; the

belly is ash-coloured, with transverse scales like most other serpents.

When this animal is intent on mischief, it lies coiled like a rope,

with the tail a little in motion, which having rattled, it launches

forth upon its prey, making no farther reach than its own length; this

done, it coils a second time, and again projects itself. The bite of

the rattle-snake is accounted fatal, at least is thought very dangerous

over all America; but with regard to the fascinating qualities of its

eyes, such as the story of its causing mice, squirrels, and birds to

run into its mouth, I reject them as fables; the supposed charm

consisting in nothing more than this, that the poor animals, finding

themselves surprized by the impending danger, are seized with such a

trepidation and fear, that even the use of their limbs forsakes them,

and they are rivetted to the place till they die, or in the act of

leaping they are seized by their enemy [21].

In this cabinet I also saw the blue dipsas of Surinam, which had almost

the colour of ultramarine on the back; its sides were lighter, and the

belly nearly white. I did not learn that the bite of this reptile was

fatal, but that it occasions immoderate thirst in the patient, from

which it took its name; the word dipsa signifying thirst in the Greek

language. Another snake I also observed here, about three feet long,

being annulated with different colours, and called amphisbœna, from the

supposition of its having two heads; but the truth is, that from its

cylindrical form the head and tail so much resemble each other, that

the error is almost pardonable; besides which, the eyes are nearly

imperceptible. This is the snake which, being supposed blind, and

vulgarly said to be fed by the large ants already described, is in this

country honoured with the name of King of the Emmets [22].

Amongst Mr. Roux’s numerous collection of fine butterflies, one of a

middle size I thought peculiarly beautiful; all its wings, both above

and below, being elegantly streaked with transverse bars of velvet,

black, and a variegated bright green. The amazing height to which they

ascend, and the great velocity with which these insects fly, make them

so rare, being, for these reasons, but very seldom caught. The

caterpillar is a sea-green, and all covered over with hard feelers, not

unlike feathers.—For a better idea of the above snakes, and this fly,

see the plate annexed, where the last was improved from Madam Merian’s

collection.

I have just said that we were ordered to leave the colony, and that all

were overjoyed with the news, myself excepted. But on the 15th, by

letters from Holland to our chief, our return was again countermanded

for six months. My companions were therefore suddenly cast down with

disappointment, while I was as suddenly revived, and now determined to

save all my pay until Joanna’s redemption should be fully accomplished:

but what grieved me very much was the other news from Europe, viz. that

the Scots Brigade had been invited to England by his Britannic Majesty,

while I was lamenting that I could not possibly be one of the number

[23]. I at the same time had the offer of an American company under

General Washington, but this I refused without any hesitation, as may

be supposed.

In short, on the 18th of February, the poor dispirited men were again

sent up to Magdenburg, a large party still remaining at the Java Creek;

whilst the temper of the officers was now so ruffled, that a Mr. Fisher

of our corps fought no less than two duels in two succeeding days,

dangerously wounding both his antagonists, who were both officers of

the Society regiment.

As I was not yet recovered, I staid some time longer at Paramaribo,

where at the house of a Mr. Reynsdorp, I saw a Portuguese Jew teaching

his children the Christian religion, while the pious mother of the

charity-house kept flogging the poor slaves daily, because they were,

as she said, unbelievers. To one black woman, in particular, she

wantonly gave four hundred lashes, who bore them without a complaint.

But to change the disagreeable subject;—while I have the leisure and

the opportunity, I feel the inclination to state to the public a short

account of the trade and intrinsic value of this blood-spilling colony;

which still might be richer, did they not follow the example of the

woman in the fable with her golden eggs.

In the first place, in Surinam are computed to be about six or eight

hundred plantations, producing sugar, coffee, cacao, and cotton,

besides some indigo, and valuable timbers, &c.—The exportation of which

four first articles only, and their value, may be seen at one view in

the following table for four successive years.

+------+------------+------------+----------+---------+

+------+------------+------------+----------+---------+

| 1771 | 19,494 | 11,135,132 | 416,821 | 203,945 |

| 1772 | 19,260 | 12,267,134 | 354,935 | 90,035 |

| 1773 | 15,741 | 15,427,298 | 332,229 | 135,047 |

| 1774 | 15,111 | 11,016,518 | 506,610 | 105,126 |

+------+------------+------------+----------+---------+

|Total | 69,606 | 49,846,082 |1,610,595 | 534,153 |

+------+------------+------------+----------+---------+

69,606 barrels of sugar, at 60 florins per

barrel, make ƒ. 4,176,360 — —

49,846,082 lbs. of coffee, at 8½d. per lb.

make 21,184,584 17 —

1,610,595 lbs. of cacao, at 6½d. per lb.

make 523,443 7 8

534,153 lbs. of cotton, at 8d. per lb. make 212,661 4 —

Sum total ƒ. 26,097,049 8 8

Which makes in one year exactly ƒ. 6,524,262 7 2

But this average produce was shipped off for

the town of Amsterdam only.

If I now add what goes to Rotterdam and to

Zealand, besides the home consumption, and

the return of the rum and molasses, the

indigo at 4 ƒ. per lb. and the timber from 5

d. to five florins per cubic foot, it will

amount to as much more 6,524,262 7 2

---------------

Thus altogether ƒ. 13,048,524 14 4

Which, supposing it was but 11,000,000 ƒ. makes a yearly income of one

million neat in sterling money.

How the above sum is divided between the republic of Holland and this

colony, shall be my business to state in the second place.

The town of Amsterdam affords about

fifty ships, at an average of 400

tons burthen each, which receive,

for importation freight of various

commodities, the sum of ƒ. 6,000

For exportation freight of the above

productions, which grow in the colony [24] 32,000

------

Thus each vessel gets for freight ƒ. 38,000

Which, multiplied by the No of vessels 50

------

Makes exactly ƒ. 1,900,000 — —

For Rotterdam and Zealand I calculate

together about 30 vessels more of different

burdens: thus 1,200,000 — —

And for the brick that serves for ballast,

passengers, &c. 80,000 — —

Each Guinea ship, importing yearly

from 250 to 300 negroes, lowest

value, at ƒ. 120,000

Thus supposing the number of vessels [25] 6

--------

Amounts to 720,000 — —

To all these I shall add the merchandize

imported from Holland, such as wine, spirits,

beer, salt-beef, pork, and flour, silk,

cotton, and linen-manufactures; cloaths,

hats, shoes; gold, silver, and steel

ornaments; arms and ammunition; even masons

and carpenters tools, &c. &c. at an average

of about 50 per cent. profit. Besides

correspondents charges, insurance, duty,

store-house expences, porters fees, wharfage,

and package, which last articles cost the

inhabitants ten per cent. more.

Thus altogether 1,100,000 — —

=============

Which makes already the sum of ƒ. 5,000,000 — —

Still let me mention the interest of 6 per

cent. for the national debt of five millions

sterling, due by the colony, and what they

are defrauded of by usurers in Holland, where

prodigious other charges are brought in; and

where those who have made their fortunes go

to spend it; and the amount will be found to

produce at least 1,000,000 — —

=============

The whole of which items added together,

produce no less a sum yearly than ƒ. 6,000,000 — —

Which is clear profit to the republic, viz.

principally for Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and

Zealand. Thus the inhabitants of Surinam get,

for their share of the above treasure, only 5,000,000 — —

--------------

Which make together, as I said, one million

sterling, or ƒ. 11,000,000 — —

In the third place, I shall now show in what manner the internal

expence of the society of Surinam is defrayed by taxes; which amount to

no trifle, as shall be seen.

Having already mentioned, when speaking of the government, that the

public revenue officers were five in number, I will now point out how

they collect the cash respectively each, for the support of the above

expences.

The first of these is that of Importation and Exportation Duties.

To this is paid, viz.

By all Dutch vessels, } thus for

3 ƒ. per ton } tonnage, ƒ. 90,000

By Americans, &c. 6 ƒ. per ton }

By Americans, &c. for all

imports and exports, 5 per cent. 60,000

Sugar pays 1 ƒ. per thousand or }

barrel } in 1771

Coffee 15d. per 100 lb. weight } paid 260,000

Cacao 1 ƒ. 15d. per 100 lb. Do }

Cotton }

———————— ƒ. 410,000 — —

===========

Thus receives yearly about the

sum of ƒ. 410,000 — —

The second is the office of excise and small duties.

To this is paid, viz.

For a barrel of beer ƒ. 3 — —

A Do of claret 12 — —

A pipe of madeira 23 10 —

All wines, per quart bottle — — 1

The tax on publicans, is 600 — —

Do on small retailers 300 — —

And which amounts to a yearly

produce of at least 100,000 — —

Then follows thirdly the office for taxation on heads;

which receives for all inhabitants, black and white,

without exception, viz.

For or men and women ƒ. 2 10 { this produces 150,000 — —

For boys and girls under 12, ƒ. 1 5 { yearly

Next comes the office for sales and slaves,

which gets, viz.

For selling dead stock, }

including estates, &c. 5 per cent. } thus, 130,000 — —

For selling newly-arrived or }

imported negro slaves, 2½ per cent. }

And finally, the office for re-taking negro deserters,

which was then erected, the other taxes not being

sufficient; which produces yearly, viz.

By an additional tax on heads,

black and white, at 1 ƒ. is 80,000

By 4 per cent. of every profit

got during the year upon oath, is 400,000

Which makes exactly ------- 480,000 — —

Still let me not forget what is yearly paid for what

is called the support of the common or grass fields,

viz. For a house, according to its size.

For a coach 20 — —

For a whiskey 10 — —

For a saddle-horse 10 — —

Which add to the above impositions again 12,000 — —

-------------

And these, if summed together, make a yearly

revenue of no less than ƒ. 1,282,000 — —

Having now clearly demonstrated, partly by the assistance of Dr.

Fermyn’s Tableau de la Colonie de Surinam, and partly by my own

experience, that the intrinsic value of this settlement is worth yearly

above one million of sterling money, which, by proper management, might

be still increased; also that the greater part of it goes to the

republic, while the people are thus burthened on their estates by

almost insupportable taxation, which induces many to be rogues, who

would perhaps otherwise be honest; I shall, by way of appendix, give

some short account of the trade carried on in this colony by the North

Americans:—These people arrive with small brigs, sloops, and schooners

from Virginia, Rhode Island, New York, Boston, Jamaica, Grenada,

Antigua, Barbadoes, &c. from which places they export flour, beef,

pork, herrings, salt, mackarel, and leaf-tobacco for the negroes; also

fir-boards, English rum, and other spirits; loaf-sugar [26],

spermaceti-candles, onions, &c. Besides each vessel is bound to bring

in one horse [27], which they often supply by a head only; affirming,

that they put on board a horse, but that he died on the passage. For

the above commodities the American traders export all the melasses of

this colony to distil into rum at home, and frequently ship-loads of

other productions and merchandize, though this is done in a clandestine

manner, by which both the seller and buyer are considerable gainers,

being ready cash for the one, and a cheap bargain for the other. From

the Leeward Islands these vessels also import private mulatto and

quaderoon slaves, which being generally young and handsome, whatever

may be their moral character, sell for considerable prices.

Having thus shewn, according to the best information I was able to

acquire, in what the commerce and intrinsic wealth of this fine colony

consist; I will now take my leave of the subject, and continue my

narrative.

On the 21st of February, Mr. Reynsdorp, the son-in-law of Mrs.

Godefroy, took me in his sail barge for change of air to

Nuten-Schadelyk, one of his own coffee estates; where I saw a white man

who had lately lost both his eyes in one night by the bats or vampires,

as they are called; and the following day, sailing up Comewina River,

we proceeded to the delightful Cacao plantation Alkmaar, the property

of the above lady; where the negro slaves are treated like children by

the mistress, to whom they all look up as to their common parent.—Here

were no groans to be heard, no fetters to be met with, nor any marks of

severity to be seen—but all was harmony and content. The superb house

and other offices of this charming estate, where pleasure and

hospitality ever reign, I have already represented in plate No X.;

while the fields and gardens, nay, even the negro houses, bore all the

marks of perfect peace and plenty.

The cacao-trees are supplied from nurseries for the purpose, like

orchards in England, and planted very regularly at ten or twelve feet

distance from each other, where they grow to the height of our English

cherry-trees. But these plantations must be well sheltered, both from

the hard winds and scorching sun, when young; the roots not entering

deep into the ground to succour them, nor can they at that time bear

extraordinary heat; on which account the groves are filled up with

cassava-shrubs or plantain-trees for their shelter, and which at the

same time answer the purpose of killing the weeds, which grow so

luxuriantly in all the tropical climates;—by these attentions the trees

will bear fruit before they are three years old, when they afford two

crops annually, but they are in the highest perfection at the age of

twelve or fourteen. The leaf of the cacao-tree is above eight inches

long, and nearly three broad, thick-pointed, ribbed like the

laurel-time, and of a bright green-colour. The fruit is about the same

size, and when young resembles a cucumber; but when ripe it becomes

yellow like a large lemon, with ribs like the melon, and tubercles

which enclose the seed or nuts, near thirty in number: they lie

longitudinally in the fruit, and when fit for use are of the size of

olives, and purple-coloured. The trees are supposed to bear at each

crop from thirty to three hundred pods, each containing about thirty

nuts, weighing one pound, from which a calculation may be made how much

will be the produce of each harvest. After a few days the nuts are

extracted from the pods, and dried in the shade; during which time they

undergo a very strong perspiration, when they are put into barrels and

fit for transportation, to be converted into that well-known and

agreeable beverage called Chocolate.

It is said the cacao-trees are natives of Guiana, and grow wild in

large quantities near the river Amazon: be that as it may, Governor

Chatillon’s son planted the first tree in Surinam in 1684, and the

first crop was exported to Holland in 1733. A great advantage in

cultivating cacao-trees is, that fewer slaves are required than in any

other branch of the planting business. How considerable are the profits

will appear by the accounts of the year 1774, when 506,610 lbs. were

exported to Amsterdam alone, which produced 202,614 ƒ. Dutch money,

being equal to £. 18,419 sterling. The prices have been fluctuating

from 4d. to 9d. per lb. the average being about 6½d. The best estates,

of which Alkmaar is one, produce yearly above 80,000 lbs. weight.

In the plate annexed, A is the leaf above, B below [28]; C, the wood;

D, the flower; E, the young pulp; F, the same in perfection; and G, the

seeds or nuts to make the chocolate.

On the 27th we returned to town, where the day before a Society soldier

was shot for mutiny; and the day following a ship was burnt in the

roads. At this time the celebrated free negro Qwasi, who was the

prophet, priest, and king of the rangers, &c. went to Holland on a

visit to the Prince of Orange, with letters of recommendation from

Fourgeoud, whose praises he was to resound, as well as to complain of

the Governor for not treating him with due respect. This being the

period for the sessions, another negro’s leg was cut off for sculking

from a task to which he was unequal; while two more were condemned to

be hanged for running away altogether. The heroic behaviour of one of

these men before the court deserves particularly to be noticed:—He

begged only to be heard for a few moments; which being granted, he

proceeded thus:

“I was born in Africa, where, defending my prince during an engagement,

I was made a captive, and sold for a slave on the coast of Guinea by my

own countrymen.—One of your countrymen, who is now to be one of my

judges, became my purchaser, in whose service I was treated so cruelly

by his overseer, that I deserted, and joined the rebels in the

woods.—Here again I was condemned to be a slave to Bonny, their chief,

who treated me with even more severity than I had experienced from the

Europeans, till I was once more forced to elope, determined to shun

mankind for ever, and inoffensively to end my days by myself in the

forest. Two years had I persevered in this manner quite alone,

undergoing the greatest hardships and anxiety of mind, preserving life

only for the possibility of once more seeing my dear family, who were

perhaps starving on my account, in my own country; I say two miserable

years had just elapsed, when I was discovered by the rangers, taken,

and brought before this tribunal, who are now acquainted with the

history of my wretched life, and from whom the only favour I have to

ask is, that I may be executed next Saturday, or as soon as it may

possibly be convenient.”

This speech was uttered with the utmost moderation, by one of the

finest-looking negroes that was perhaps ever seen; to which his former

master, who, as he observed, was now one of the judges, made the

following laconic reply—“Rascal! that is not what we want to know; but

the torture this moment shall make you confess crimes as black as

yourself, as well as those of your hateful accomplices.” To which the

negro, who now swelled in every vein with indignation and ineffable

contempt: “Massera, the tigers have trembled for these hands,” holding

them up; “and dare you think to threaten me with your wretched

instrument? No, I despise the utmost tortures you can now invent, as

much as I do the pitiful wretch who is going to inflict them.” Saying

which, he threw himself down on the rack, where amidst the most

excruciating torments he remained with a smile, without uttering a

syllable; nor did he ever speak again, until he ended his unhappy days

at the gallows.

What good man can “reflect the tear-stain’d eye,

When blood attests even slaves for freedom die?

On cruel gibbets, high disclos’d they rest,

And scarce one groan escapes one bloated breast.

Here sable Cæsars [29] feel the Christian rod,

There Afric Platos, tortur’d hope a God,

While jetty Brutus for his country sighs,

And sooty Cato with his freedom dies!”

Having dined with Colonel Fourgeoud on the 8th of March, when we

celebrated the Prince of Orange’s birthday, while Mr. Reyndorp gave a

treat to all the soldiers, he acquainted me that the rangers were now

alone encamped at the Wana Creek; that the pestilential spot Devil’s

Harwar was at last entirely forsaken; and that the two lately raised

companies of sable volunteers had taken a few prisoners, and killed

others on the Wanica path, behind Paramaribo. I was at this time a good

deal better, but still, not being quite recovered, he who had formerly

treated me so severely, now even insisted on my staying some longer

time at Paramaribo: nay, gave me an offer to return to Europe, which I

absolutely refused; in short, about the middle of the month, I was as

well as ever I was in my life. At this time Colonel Fourgeoud and

myself were daily visitors of the ladies, in whose company no man could

behave better, while I could often not avoid disgust; indeed so languid

were many in their looks, and so unrestrained were some in their

conversation, that a Mrs. N—— even asked me, sans ceremonie, to supply

the place of her husband; while she might as well have asked me to

drink, for a relish, a tumbler of salts.

On the 17th, however, my eyes were better feasted, when, going to dine

with Colonel Texier of the Society troops, I first took a walk in the

orange grove and the governor’s gardens; here, peeping through the

foliage, I soon discovered two most elegant female figures after

bathing, the one a fine young Samboo, the other a blooming Quaderoon,

which last was so very fair complexioned, that she might have passed

for a native of Greece, while the roses that glowed in her cheek were

equal to those that blossomed in the shrubbery [30]. They were walking

hand in hand, and conversing with smiles near a flowery bank that

adorned the side of a crystal brook, in which they plunged the instant

they heard me rustling amongst the verdure, like two mermaids:

“Then to the flood they rush’d; the parted flood

Its lovely guests with closing waves receiv’d,

And every beauty soft’ning, every grace

Flushing anew, a mellow lustre shed.”

Leaving them to enjoy their innocent amusement of bathing, I spent the

remaining hour before dinner amongst the shady fruit-trees, blooming

bowers, and serpentine gravel walks; where indeed I saw greater variety

of European plants than I imagined were produced in a tropical climate,

such as mint, fennel, sage, rosemary, golden-rod and jessamine, the

sensitive plant, pomegranates, roses, figs, and even some grapes.—Of

the pomegranate flowers, a specimen may be seen in plate, No XXIX. The

figs are both within and without of a beautiful crimson colour; but the

roses are rather pale. Here were some beautiful pine-apples and melons,

which, though they are so generally known, I will nevertheless give

some account of. The imperial fruit, called Anana or pine-apple grows

in the centre of an elegant sea-green plant, on a stalk of the same

hue, about eight inches in length, its leaves diverging near the

surface of the earth, which are smooth, long, strong, pointed, and

dentulated with hard prickles. The shape of this fruit is nearly oval,

the size of a sugar-loaf, all over chequered, and of a most beautiful

orange or golden colour, being crowned with a sea-green tuft, of the

same leaves as the mother plant, and which when put in the ground

produces another pine-apple in the space of about eighteen months. The

delicious taste and flavour of this fruit has in the space of half a

century become so well known, that I have introduced it merely to

notice its plenty in the country I write of; for so spontaneously

indeed do the former grow in this climate, and of such different kinds,

without any cultivation, that on many estates they serve as a common

food for hogs.

The musk and water melons grow also plentifully in this country; the

first is of a globular form, large, like the crown of a small hat,

ribbed, buff colour, orange and green. The pulp is yellow, firm, sweet,

and succulent; still it is eaten with sugar, but more frequently with

black pepper and salt—the smell of this fruit is excellent.

The water-melon is of an oval or cylindrical shape, its colour is a

bright polished green, and partly a very pale buff; the pulp of this

fruit is a pink colour, and of a mellow watery substance; its taste is

sweet, exceedingly cooling, and of a most agreeable flavour.

Both the above melons are of the cucumber kind, growing on rough

stalks, with large leaves, that creep along the ground. It is

remarkable that the water-melon, which may be freely eaten in all

distempers without the least pernicious consequence, thrives best in

very dry and sandy places.—In the annexed plate may be seen the Anana

or pine-apple, with the musk and water-melon, besides the seed from

which this last is produced.

I sent about this period, to a Mr. Reygersman in Holland, a most

elegant collection of Surinam butterflies, which are here caught in

great abundance and variety, and by which alone some people make no

small profit; but the very idea of pinning them alive to a sheet of

paper, was sufficient to prevent me from becoming a fly-catcher:

“Lo! the poor beetle that we tread upon——

Feels a like pang, as when a giant falls.”

Now Captains Van Geurick and Fredericy, with Serjeant Fowler, were sent

on an embassy to the Owca and Sarameca free negroes, if possible to

procure their assistance against the rebels, which they always

continued to promise (while Colonel Fourgeoud gave them presents) but

never yet performed. A few of the other officers still stayed with us

gallanting at Paramaribo, amongst whom were Major Medler and Captain

Hamell [31], who had both been with General Desalve’s regiment, in the

colony Berbicè, and previous to that the first was in the Prussian

service. It was no small change of appearance for us, who had so little

a time before appeared like wild men, now to strut through Paramaribo,

dressed like so many French marquees.

Being a particular favourite of Governor Nepveu, I one day was induced

to ask him for a piece of uncultivated forest ground; when he readily

granted me 400 acres: but when I inconsiderately asked it of him, I had

not calculated how large a capital it required to clear away woods,

purchase negroes, and provide other necessaries for such an

undertaking; and when a little reflection convinced me how difficult it

would be to find a partner of abilities to assist me, I declined

accepting this mark of the governor’s regard.

Having on the 26th once more saved a poor black girl from receiving

some hundred lashes, by replacing a dozen of china, which she had

broken by accident; while another was stabbed by a Frenchman, who

immediately cut his own throat from remorse, and his companion, an

overseer, hanged himself; and having visited the poor negro whose leg

had lately been cut off by law, I packed my boxes to set out next

morning on my sixth campaign; and once more take the command of the

River Comewina: at which moment arrived at my lodgings six loaded negro

slaves with presents from my hospitable friends, of every kind that

Guiana could produce, and the colony of Surinam could afford me.

CHAP. XXV.

Singular Method of detecting a Theft—Rencounter between the Rangers

and Rebels—Amazonian Action of a black Girl—Wonderful Sagacity in

wild Bees—The Regiment receives a second Order to return to Europe.

On the 27th of March, 1776, adieu once more Paramaribo, my Joanna, and

my boy!

This morning, a little before I sat out, I saw a Mr. d’Halbergh

terribly bitten by a large iguana or lizard, at the very moment he was

pressing me and my companions to stay a few days, to be present at the

celebration of what he called his Silver-feast, being the twenty-fifth

anniversary of his marriage; but after condoling with him upon account

of the accident, we embarked in a tent-barge, and arrived that evening

at the Sporksgift estate in Matapica. Here we were entertained two days

by Captain Mac Neal, with the greatest hospitality. I was however

nearly suffocated by the steam of some green coffee, which was spread

on the floor of the lodge where I had slung my hammock.

Late on the evening of the 29th, we arrived at the Gold-mine

plantation, where we found a negro boy and girl, suspended by each

others side from a high beam, by a rope fastened to their thumbs, which

were tied behind their backs, this almost dislocated their shoulders,

and must have occasioned the most agonizing tortures. Thus I cut the

miserable victims down, without leave or ceremony, and swore that

instant to demolish the tyrannical overseer who had inflicted this new

mode of punishment, unless he promised immediately to forgive them;

which he miraculously did in my presence.

On the 30th, a little before we landed at the Hope, I discovered that

all my sugar, with the greatest part of my rum, was gone; and detected

the thief by the following laughable stratagem (though not my own

invention)—I told the negroes, six in number, that a parrot’s feather

was to grow within six minutes upon the tip of his nose who was most

guilty; at the same time pronouncing a few incoherent words, and making

two or three circles with my sabre, I shut myself within the tilt:

here, peeping through the key-hole, and observing the rowers with great

attention, without their perceiving me, I soon saw one of them, at

every stroke of the oar, put up his hand, and feel the tip of his nose;

upon which I instantly ran up to him, and cried, “I see the parrot’s

feather! Thou art the thief, thou rascal!” To which the poor

superstitious fellow instantly answered, “Yaw, me massera!” then

kneeling to the sorcerer for mercy, and the others also intreating me

to spare him, I pardoned the credulous thief and his accomplices, who

by their candid confession obtained a piece of salt beef for their

dinner, and a gourd full of good grog in the bargain.

Immediately on my arrival I took the command of the whole river, and

now was once more the Prince of Comewina. I also built an elevated

palace, in imitation of Prince Bonny’s at Boosy-Cry, on twelve strong

stakes; which aerial habitation I found very necessary, the whole post

being almost under water by the inundations, and by neglect become a

perfect mire-pool, while of my former cottage not a vestige was to be

seen. Here I found the marines in perfect misery, being almost naked,

and having sold their very shoes for a mouthful of fresh provisions.

These grievances, however, by my labour and intercession with Colonel

Fourgeoud, whose favourite I now became more and more, were speedily

redressed, and the Hope, in a little time, appeared like a paradise,

when compared with its former state.

Shooting was now, as formerly, my favourite diversion; and on the 4th I

brought home a kind of plover, a couple of red-breasts, and near a

dozen grass-sparrows.

The plover of Guiana is the size of a pigeon, its colour a dark-brown

and white, with transverse bars. The wet savannahs are full of them,

and they are delicate eating. The red-breast is a kind of large

bull-finch, with the upper part of its body a deep chesnut; and all the

rest a blood-colour: this is reckoned as good as an ortolan, and

abounds on all the plantations. The grass-sparrow, which I think is by

some called the anaca, is a beautiful little creature, like a paroquet;

these birds are perfectly green, with a white bill and red eyes. They

do much damage amongst the rice and Indian corn, flying in prodigious

flocks upon the plantations.

At the Hope the trochulus, or humming-birds, were so thick among the

tamarind-trees, that they resembled a swarm of bees; a Lieutenant

Swildens daily fetching down several of them, by blowing small peas or

Indian corn through a hollow reed.

Of all the tropical birds, this little creature is particularly worth

attention, not only on account of its beauty, but for its diminutive

size, being smaller than the first joint of a man’s finger; and when

deprived of its feathers not larger than a blue-bottle fly. However,

there are several species, and some twice as large. These birds vary

much in their colour: in the shade they appear generally of a deep

shining green; which, by the reflection of the sun, produces a splendid

purple brown and azure. The head is crested with a small tuft of

feathers, green, black, and gold; the tail and wings are a glossy

black; the bill is not much thicker than a pin, it is long, black, and

crooked at the end; the tongue is forked, and resembles a red silk

thread; with this they sip the nectar or honey from the flowers, during

which time they are stationary, exactly like bees, and this juice seems

to be the only nourishment of these little creatures. They often make

their nest on the leaf of a wild pine-apple, or dwarf aloe, which is

constructed mostly of cotton, and not larger than the husk of a walnut;

their eggs are about the size of peas, and only two in number. Madam

Merian says, that the humming-bird sits on four eggs; which, for my

part, I never saw or heard of during my residence in Guiana.

In the annexed plate I have endeavoured to represent them and their

little habitation in natural size; though I found it impossible to make

the drawing more perfect, their motion upon the wing being so very

quick, that the feathers are hardly perceptible; and this motion

occasions that humming noise, from which this delicate little creature

derives its name.

Here were also immense flocks of monkies: I have seen above two hundred

of them in a field of sugar-canes, where they make great devastation.

These wary animals place sentinels all round the field to give the

alarm; and I myself have been a witness with what sagacity and fidelity

they perform this duty, when the whole company hop into the forest,

each with his plunder in his paw.

Swimming was another of my favourite amusements, which contributed to

make me more healthy, and stronger than most of my companions; as it is

beautifully expressed by the author of the Seasons:—

“This is the purest exercise of health,

The kind refresher of the summer heats:

————Hence the limbs

Knit into force, and the same Roman arm

That rose victorious o’er the conquer’d earth,

First learn’d when tender to subdue the wave.”

On the 14th I shot an alligator; but returning from this excursion in a

boat, a packet of letters from Colonel Fourgeoud being reached me,

unfortunately fell overboard into the water, and sank immediately; some

officers, however, the next day coming to the Hope, informed me of the

principal contents, viz. that Colonel Fourgeoud, being determined once

more to scour the woods, had ordered me to send up all my spare men and

provisions, as also the Society troops who were now at Oranjebo, the

former to Magdenberg, and the latter to the river Pirica; which I

performed, retaining only twelve crippled soldiers at the Hope, and as

many at Clarenbeek, without either surgeon or medicines; nevertheless,

with this small number, I made daily patroles by land and water—they

also informed me of the death of ensign Van Halm, and that another ship

with sick was ordered shortly to set sail for Holland.

Colonel Fourgeoud, though he himself remained still at Paramaribo, yet

continued attentively to command. Thus, on the 23d, he ordered a

detachment of one hundred men to reconnoitre from Magdenberg to the

Wana Creek and Marawina river; but they returned without any new

discoveries.

As I was now likely to be continued at the Hope for some time, I sent

for my sheep and poultry, from the estate where I had left them,

presenting Mr. Gourly with a ram and a ewe, as being of a breed

superior to any in the colony; and I found with joy that my flocks had

considerably encreased in numbers.

On the 26th one of my men brought me a snake, which he had just killed;

it was about four feet long, and not thicker than the barrel of a

musket; when perceiving a knob near its middle, larger than my fist, I

had the curiosity to cut it open, and an enormous frog made its

appearance, perfectly alive and entire, a small spot on the back of its

head and neck excepted, which was blue and slimy, as if beginning to

putrify. For the sake of experiment, I fastened him with a string to

his foot upon a grass-plat near the river for three days; when finding

the poor animal hearty and well, I gave him his liberty, with a caution

to keep a better look-out for the future.

On the 28th I paid a visit to Thomas Palmer, Esq. late King’s

counsellor at Massachusett’s Bay, upon his estate called Fairfield.

Here both the master and his slaves were perfectly happy and contented,

chiefly owing to Mr. Palmer’s just and equitable administration to all

around him; and such were the consequences of his wise government, that

few plantations in the West Indies could boast of greater prosperity,

either in point of produce or population; while the courtesy and

hospitality of the gentleman-like proprietor to strangers, completed

his happy character, which shone conspicuously throughout the colony.

Upon my return to the Hope I received a letter from the commander in

chief, informing me that Mr. Vinsack with his rangers had killed

several rebels, and taken eleven prisoners; but that another party of

the rangers had been surprized by the enemy, and several of them shot

dead while asleep in their hammocks.

During these skirmishes, an instance of presence of mind was exhibited

by a rebel negro, I think but seldom equalled:—A ranger having levelled

his piece was just going to fire at him, when the man called out,

holding up his hand, “What, Sir, do you mean to kill one of your own

party?” Which the ranger believing him to be, replied, “God forbid!”

and dropping the muzzle of his piece, instantly received a ball through

the body from his adversary, which killed him; and who, having thus

saved himself, disappeared like a flash of lightning. One of the

captive negroes related, that the evening before they were taken, a

rebel, who had formerly deserted from Fauconberg was cut to pieces with

sabres, by Bonny’s command, as two others had been before we took

Gado-Saby.

On the 6th of May it blew a violent hurricane, accompanied with thunder

and lightning, so that many trees were torn up by the roots, and most

of the houses on the Hope blown down or unroofed; my aerial palace,

however, by good fortune, withstood this gale; and upon the 8th,

Joanna, with her boy, arriving at this place, I promised myself a scene

of happiness equal to that I experienced in 1774; especially as my

family, my sheep, and my poultry, were now doubled; besides, I had at

this time a beautiful garden, and if I could not with propriety be

called a planter, I might at least claim, with some degree of justice,

the name of a little farmer.

On the 9th we all dined with Mr. de Graaff, at his beautiful plantation

Knoppemombo, in Cassawina Creek, where this worthy man had foretold,

before the birth of my boy, that both he and his mother should one day

be happy and free. Here I saw the following roots and plants, which I

have not yet observed.—The tayers, which are the hearts of a

farinaceous green shrub, not above two or three feet high, with

remarkable large leaves, in the form of a heart, the trunk something

resembling that of a banana-tree. This plant being cut down, and with a

knife divested of its outer tegument, has the appearance and

consistency of a yam or potatoe, but is better eating, having a much

finer grain. The tayers are of different kinds; the smallest is

preferred, and made use of in the same manner as the above roots. I

have here also found a kind of real potatoe, and in large quantities,

but they are only used by the negroes, being inferior to the

hog-potatoes in Great Britain.

The tobacco plant grows here with large downy leaves, full of fibres;

it flowers almost continually, and will last for twelve or fourteen

years, but is so inferior to the Virginia tobacco, that it is only used

by the slaves. This plant derived its name from the island Tobago,

where it was first discovered, in 1560.

They have here also a kind of wild tea, which is accounted very

wholesome, but in my opinion is no better than English ground-ivy. I

found plenty of tomatè, which being produced in many British gardens, I

will not attempt to describe; but only observe that the Jews are

particularly fond of it, and stew it with butchers meat instead of

onions.

The physic-nut tree is likewise to be met with here; this is a knotty

shrub, that grows about ten or twelve feet in height, and very slender;

the nut that it produces has a kernel like an almond, and tastes as

well, provided it be deprived of a thin white skin that adheres to it,

otherwise a violent vomiting and purging is the immediate consequence

of swallowing it. They also shewed me several kinds of peas and beans,

and other fruits growing in pods; such as the cassia, a shining hard

yellow seed inclosed in a woody shell near sixteen inches long, and

very small, with a black soft pulp as sweet as honey: this is

considered as a very safe laxative: the cassia grows on a tree very

common in Guiana, and which is called soete boonties and cotiaan.

Another kind of pod, named seve-yaars boontie, is so called, because it

is said to be in blossom seven years before it produces. The shrub

called snakee weeree-weeree also grows here; they told me it was a

sovereign remedy for fevers, and I take it to be the same as the

serpentaria Virginiana, or Virginian snake-root. Lastly, I saw a

vegetable or flower here called seven-boom, which is too frequently

used by the young negro girls to promote abortion, as are also the

green pine-apples, which are said to have the same effect.

Thus having spent not only an agreeable but an instructive day at

Knoppemombo, we took leave of our very good friend in the evening, and

rowed contentedly back to the Hope, our boat being nearly loaded with

presents of every kind, amongst which were some fine cocoa-nuts, that

one of his slaves, after walking, I may say more properly than climbing

[32], up the tree, had brought down in my presence, and after a fierce

engagement with a black serpent upon the very top of it, which by the

help of his knife he vanquished, and to our admiration dropped it down

dead at our feet.

The slaves of the Hope and Fauconberg also testified their respect for

Joanna and her boy, by bringing in presents of fowls, fruit, eggs,

venison, and fish; and Mr. Palmer handsomely presented us with a large

quantity of Indian corn to feed our poultry. Thus every thing seemed to

contribute to our felicity, which was however considerably allayed by

the disagreeable news we received on the 18th, informing me of the

death of my dear friend, Mr. Walter Kennedy, shortly after his arrival

in Holland [33]: it was now also confirmed that the Dutch had refused

the Scots Brigade to his Britannic Majesty; which greatly surprized me,

as I considered it as a claim not only from affinity, but also by

treaty.

To amuse my mind from these unpleasing subjects, I now paid a short

visit to my French acquaintance Monsieur Cachelieu, at his plantation

Egmond. Here, amongst other company, I met with an Italian, a planter

called D’O—s, who had but one arm; with which, however, he took up a

knife at table, and without the smallest provocation, as I sat next

him, made a back thrust at me, to the astonishment of all who were

present. Having fortunately parried the blow by beating up his elbow,

which occasioned the point of his knife to pass over my shoulder, I

started up, and was going to put him instantly to death; but this being

prevented, I offered to fight him with one hand tied behind me, and

with any instrument he chose, fist, bludgeon, sword, pistol, or even

knife; this the cowardly assassin having refused, was kicked out of

company, and sent home to his plantation called Hazard.

So violent was this unhappy man’s disposition, that some little time

before, he ordered a poor negro woman, who was advanced eight months in

her pregnancy, to be flogged, until her intestines appeared, and that

only for breaking a tumbler. One of his male slaves, trying to evade

his severity, was shot dead on the spot; and there was not a slave

belonging to his estate but was cut by the lash of his whip from the

neck to the heel.

Colonel Fourgeoud now sending a proper supply of men, with a surgeon

and medicines, the Hope wore a more pleasing aspect, and health and

content began to be visible in every countenance. Amongst other things,

I encouraged the men to catch fish, which were here in abundance, and

the negroes taught them how to make the proper snares, such as the

spring-hook, and mansoa or spring-basket. I have given a representation

of both these in the plate annexed, where the spring-hook is expressed

by the letter A, being a long elastic pole, like a strong fishing-rod,

stuck in the ground under water, at the other end of which is fixed a

double line, the shortest having fastened to it a small stick, ten

inches long, and the other the same, but a little lower; while at the

extremity of this line is hooked a small fish by the fins, in such a

manner as to swim to and fro, and be a bait for the larger species. Two

long sticks being next placed in the ground so as to appear above

water, a third stick much shorter, forms them like a gallows; above

this gallows is bent and fixed the elastic pole, by means of the double

line and its beams; but in so very slight a manner, that upon the least

touch the whole apparatus gives way, and the large pole erects itself,

when the fish that occasioned the spring, by taking the bait, is

suspended to the hook in the air, as exhibited by the figure B.

The mansoa or spring-basket is much upon the same construction, and may

be seen by referring to letter C, where it is represented open and

under water, with the bait swimming in it. This basket is made of

warimbo reeds, in the form of a sugar-loaf (the above apparatus being

fixed to the middle) in the small end of which the elastic pole is

fastened, while at the other end is an open trap-door, the whole being

supported in an erect position by a forked stick. No sooner has a large

fish entered and taken the bait, than this pole, as in the former,

erects itself with a spring, and the snap or trap-door shuts on the

invader, and he is taken, as may be seen by letter D. This differs from

the former, no hook of any kind being necessary. An idea of the

ingenuity of the negroes may be formed from these constructions, as

this mode of catching their fish requires no attendance, for the snaps

being set at night, the fish is found in the morning, which is

generally the newmara or barracota already described.

Among the variety of fish caught here was the siliba, a small oval

fish, marked not unlike a pine-apple; the sokay, which is a large fish,

and very good eating; the torro-torro, and another called tarpoen; the

first three feet in length; the other, which is white, about two feet

six inches.

On the 26th, I saw a most surprising display of activity, strength, and

courage by a young female negro, called Clardina, at the Hope; where a

wild stag having strayed from the flock, at the moment it came bounding

over the foot-path she seized it in full speed by the hinder leg, but

not being able to stop it, she suffered herself to be dragged to a

considerable distance, nor until she was terribly wounded would she let

go her hold.

The Hope was now truly a charming habitation, being perfectly dry even

in spring-tides, and washed by pleasing canals that let in the

fresh-water every tide; while the hedges surrounding the fields and

gardens were neatly cut, and produced fruit and vegetables of many

species for our use. The houses and bridges were also all repaired,

while the strictest adherence to cleanliness was recommended and

enforced among the men: by these means not one sick person out of fifty

was now to be found, where sloth, stench, and disease had so lately

spread their destructive influence, and to which the land and

sea-scurvy had given the most fatal assistance. Of the above scorbutic

complaints, the former covers the body over with blotches, and the

latter chiefly affects the teeth and gums.

I now enjoyed the greatest flow of health and spirits, while most of my

old ship-mates were either dead or returned to Europe; not a single

officer at this time being in rank above me, except only such as had

been formerly inured to the West India climate.

But to return to my garden—this at present exhibited carrots, cabbages,

onions, cucumbers, lettuces, radishes, pepper, cresses, &c. all

thriving as well as in Europe; besides sorrel of two kinds, the common

and the red, this last grows upon a shrub, and is excellent for making

jam or marmalade. The jessamine also was found here of different

species, that growing on a small tree being most admired: it is of a

pale but beautiful red colour, and a most agreeable smell; the leaves

are thick, shining, and filled with a milky juice. A species of

sensitive shrub they call shame-shame, grew also here, as did the

sleeping plant, so called from its leaves, which are set in pairs,

clapping close together from sun-set to sun-rise, and appearing as if

the two were but one; but as soon as the sun is up they again open, and

resume their double form. The above-mentioned shrubs were all dispersed

through my hedges, besides pomegranates and Indian roses, which blow

every day; while a few elegant red-lilies, which also grow wild in the

savannas, adorned the banks of my canals, the leaves of which flower

have a very bright and beautiful green polish.

Thus situated, we were visited, amongst others, by a Madame de Z—e, in

company with her brother, and a Mr. Schadts, who were lately arrived

from Holland; this lady was supposed the finest woman that even Europe

produced, as well as the most accomplished. She spoke several

languages, and was a perfect mistress of music and painting; she danced

elegantly, and rode vastly well on horseback; she even excelled in

shooting and fencing, &c. In order to make her perfect mistress of all

the fashionable exercises, I offered her my assistance in teaching her

to swim, which, however, with a smile, she thought proper to refuse.

My soldiers, and even negroes, seemed now completely happy, amongst

whom the most perfect harmony subsisted; while I frequently indulged

them with a merry evening, and a grey-beard of rum.

One night, in the midst of this festivity, I secretly ordered the

sentinel to fire his piece, and cause a false alarm, as if the enemy

were on the estate; when I had the satisfaction to see them seize their

arms, and rush out with the utmost order and intrepidity. This

experiment I was the rather inclined to put in practice, as it was

reported that the rebels intended soon to pay a visit to the River

Comewina. But we soon experienced that no scene of perfect felicity can

be lasting, for the dry season now suddenly setting-in, disease and

mortality once more began to rage among us, ten or twelve men dying

daily at the Java Creek and Magdenburg, while those under my command at

the Hope diminished hourly.

On the 3d, the surgeon made me the following report, “That my Ensign,

Mr. Decabanes, had his anchor-a-peek, and would certainly set sail for

the other world with the ebb-tide;” which was really the case, for he

died that very evening. This grieved me the more, as he had obtained

his commission through my interest, and bore an excellent character.

On the 4th of June, the spring-flood broke down my dams while we were

drinking the King’s health, and laid the whole post under water, which

created vast confusion; and in this distress the overseer Blenderman

refused to lend me any assistance, which occasioned so violent a

quarrel, that he was glad to take to his heels, and make his escape

from the plantation. I shall never have done mentioning the insolence

of these savage brutes, who mostly are the refuse of the earth, brought

up in Germany, or elsewhere, under the cane of a corporal. “Well,” said

one of these miscreants ironically to an old free negro, “don’t you

believe that the monkies are a race of damn’d Christians, who have been

thus transformed for shewing so much lenity to such as you?”—“No, sir,”

replied the black man, “we do not think that the monkies are damn’d

Christians; but I, and all of us, believe that many who call themselves

Christians are a pack of damn’d monkies.”—Which pointed repartee

afforded me infinite satisfaction.

Of the administrators I shall say nothing, nor of the appraisers of

estates; having, I believe, already mentioned that the first got ten

per cent. of all the produce, and many of the latter enrich the

purchasers and themselves by selling under the value such property as

is entrusted to their care.

On the 7th, Mr. Moryn, administrator of the Hope, being in a piece of

newly-cultivated ground on the opposite shore, I rowed over to obtain

satisfaction of the impertinent Blenderman, who was along with him; but

this fellow’s cowardice being equal to his insolence and barbarity, he

made every concession, and promised likewise to repair my dams, rather

than run the risque of broken bones—thus a reconciliation was

established.

Walking through these new fields, where a neat house was already built,

I saw some beautiful birds, amongst which was the wood-pecker. I ought

indeed to have described this bird before, and another, the name

unknown to me, having had an opportunity of doing it when I was at

Magdenburg, but I then took only drawings of them. The wood-pecker is

about the size of a thrush, and of an elegant cinnamon-colour, speckled

with dark brown and yellow; near the rump it is entirely yellow; the

head is crested with a fine crown of small feathers, of the same colour

as the body: the tail is long and black; the bill is straight, and of a

sea-green colour, as are the legs and iris of the eyes, under which on

each side are two spots of beautiful crimson.

The anonymous bird, which, however, the negroes called

woodo-louso-fowlo, from its feeding on wood-lice, is larger than the

former, and uncommonly brilliant in its plumage; the head and upper

part of its body being of a rich grass green; the breast and belly

crimson, divided by an ash-coloured bar. The tail is long, and of a

dark blue, as are the prime feathers in the wings, which are also

divided from the green by another ash-coloured bar; the bill is yellow

and hooked, being surrounded by a number of small black feathers, as

are the eyes, the iris of which is of a blood colour. (Both these birds

may be seen in the annexed plate.)—As I have already observed, however

rich and beautiful the plumage may be which decorates the groves of

Surinam, the melodious song there is but seldom heard. They had also

here the tame galinas, or Guinea-hens, called tokay, which being so

well known in England, require no particular description.

Among the plants which I saw here was the American aloe, above half a

foot in thickness, and twenty feet high; it is an ever-green, pithy

within and without, covered with sharp-pointed follicles, growing less

as they approach the summit. This tree has numerous thick leaves

diverging at its base, like the pine-apple plant, which are very long,

broad pointed, and dentulated with strong prickles. On the top grows a

cluster of yellow flowers, whose pedicles contain the seed of future

aloes, and which never fail to come to perfection in the space of two

months.

In the skirts of the surrounding woods I saw also the vanillas, or

banilla, which is a shrub that climbs up along the trunks of other

trees, adhering to the bark like nebees or ivy, by the help of its

tendrils: the leaves are prodigiously thick, and dark green, the fruit

consisting of a triangular pod six or eight inches long, and filled

with small polished seeds. These pods, being dried a fortnight in the

sun, become brown, and have a fat rich aromatic taste, and most

agreeable flavour; on which account they are used to scent the

chocolate. There are different kinds of vanilla, but that is most

esteemed which has its pods the most long and most slender. The negroes

shewed me here also a small sweetish seed, which they called bongora.

As I returned to the Hope, I met Cojo, Joanna’s uncle, who had shot one

of the howling baboons, which he brought to the Hope to shew it me.

These animals are the size of a small bull-dog, and the colour a

reddish-brown, with long hair; they have also a beard, and are upon the

whole extremely ugly; but what chiefly distinguishes them from other

monkies is their abominable howl, which they perform in chorus whole

groupes together, and so loud, that it may be heard above a mile; these

discordant concerts, the negroes told me, they generally repeat, both

night and day, at the time of high water, which, it is supposed, the

baboons know by instinct.—When speaking of instinct in animals, I

cannot omit relating the following singular fact; after which I shall

return to the historical part of my narrative.

On the 16th I was visited by a neighbouring gentleman, whom I conducted

up my ladder; but he had no sooner entered my aerial dwelling, than he

leapt down from the top to the ground, roaring like a madman with agony

and pain, after which he instantly plunged his head into the river; but

looking up, I soon discovered the cause of his distress to be an

enormous nest of wild bees or wassee-wassee, in the thatch, directly

above my head, as I stood within my door; when I immediately took to my

heels as he had done, and ordered them to be demolished by my slaves

without delay. A tar mop was now brought, and the devastation just

going to commence, when an old negro stepped up, and offered to receive

any punishment I should decree if ever one of these bees should sting

me in person. “Massera,” said he, “they would have stung you long ere

now had you been a stranger to them; but they being your tenants, that

is gradually allowed to build upon your premisses, they assuredly know

both you and your’s, and will never hurt either you or them.” I

instantly assented to the proposition, and tying the old black man to a

tree, ordered my boy Quaco to ascend the ladder quite naked, which he

did, and was not stung; I then ventured to follow, and I declare upon

my honour, that even after shaking the nest, which made its inhabitants

buz about my ears, not a single bee attempted to sting me. I next

released the old negro, and rewarded him with a gallon of rum and five

shillings for the discovery. This swarm of bees I since kept unhurt, as

my body-guards, and they have made many overseers take a desperate leap

for my amusement, as I generally sent them up my ladder upon some

frivolous message, when I wished to punish them for injustice and

cruelty, which was not seldom.

The above negro assured me, that on his master’s estate was an ancient

tree, in which had been lodged ever since he could remember, a society

of birds, and another of bees, who lived in the greatest harmony

together; but should any strange birds come to disturb or feed upon the

bees, they were instantly repulsed by their feathered allies, and if

strange bees dared to venture near the birds nests, the native swarm

attacked the invaders, and stung them to death: that his master and

family had so much respect for the above association, that the tree was

considered as sacred, and was not to be touched by an axe until it

should yield to all-destroying time.

On the 22d, a patrole arrived from Rietwyk, in Pirica, who informed me,

that a party of our troops were just returned to Java Creek from a

cruize to Vredenburg, at the Marawina; and that, in conjunction with

the rangers, they had during this campaign destroyed many fields of

provisions belonging to the rebels: also, that for their faithful

services, our sable allies had been complimented by the Society with

new arms, and, for the first time, cloathed in green uniform jackets. I

further learned that the ambassadors to the Owca and Serameca negroes

were returned after a fruitless journey, as neither of these

associations would lend the smallest assistance. In consequence of this

refusal, Colonel Fourgeoud, being wearied himself, and having exhausted

his troops in destroying most of the rebel settlements, at length

determined to relinquish the whole expedition; which resolution he

previously communicated to his Serene Highness the Prince of Orange at

the Hague.

On the 23d I received positive orders to prepare and be ready on the

15th of July, to break up, with all the troops under my command, leave

the River Comewina, and row down to Paramaribo, where the transport

ships were put in commission to convey us back to Holland. This order I

instantly read before the front to all my men, who received it with

unbounded joy and three cheers—but I alone sighed bitterly.—Oh my

Joanna! Oh my boy! who were at this time both dangerously ill, the one

with a fever, the other with convulsions, so that neither were expected

to survive. Add to this, that I ran a nail quite through my foot—thus

was completely miserable.

During this scene of sickness and distress, the strix or night-owl of

Guiana regularly paid us his nocturnal visits, even in the apartment

where we lay, pouring out his melancholy hootings, until be was killed

by one of my black attendants. This bird is here called Ooroocoocoo,

from its note, to which this word has some affinity. It is about the

size of a pigeon; the bill is yellow, and hooked like that of a

sparrow-hawk; the eyes are also yellow; the tongue is cloven; the ears

very visible; the legs strong, short, and armed with sharp claws: the

general colour of this bird is a pale brown, except the breast and

belly, which are white, intermixed with some spots of amber. The

superstitious negroes generally believe that where the night-owl makes

his appearance mortality must ensue: which prejudice is the more

excusable, as this creature only frequents the apartments of the sick;

but the real cause which attracts the animal, I apprehend to be the

lights that upon these occasions are generally kept burning all night,

or possibly the morbid, and putrid air, which excites its appetite for

prey.

An old Indian woman of Joanna’s acquaintance being now sent for to the

Hope, I myself was soon cured by her skill and attention; but my little

family continued so very unwell, that I thought it right to send them

to Paramaribo before it was too late. And on the 10th of July I sent

all my sheep and poultry to Fauconberg, one couple of fat ewes

excepted, which I killed, and with which, by the addition of fish and

venison, I entertained for two days following twenty-four of the most

respectable inhabitants in the river, while the white bread, fruit, and

Spanish wines to help out the feast, I received as a present from my

very worthy friend, Mr. James Gourland, at Berghoven.

On the 13th I ordered down the troops from Clarenbeek, where an

hospital had been a second time erected, and they this evening anchored

off the Hope.

On the 14th, an officer of the Honourable Society troops arrived to

relieve me in the command of the river; and his men from that moment

began to perform the duty.

I now removed my flag from the Hope to the barges; and in the evening

took my last farewel of Joanna’s relations on the Fauconberg estate;

who, crouding round me, expressed their sorrow aloud for my departure,

and with tears invoked the protection of Heaven for my safe and

prosperous voyage.

On the 15th we finally left the Hope, having marched my troops on board

the barges at ten o’clock, A.M.; and at noon I fired my pistol as a

signal to weigh anchor, when we immediately proceeded down the River

Comewina for the roads of Paramaribo, to be embarked on board the

transport ships for Europe.

CHAP. XXVI.

The Troops on Board—Again ordered to disembark—Great

Dejection—Mutiny—Insolent Conduct of an Owca Negro Captain—Near two

hundred Sick sent to Holland—General Description of the African

Negroes.

On the evening of the 15th of July, we anchored off the estate

Berkshoven, where I spent the night ashore with my friend Gourley; and

in the morning we continued to row down the river, when I took my last

farewel of Mr. Palmer. I passed the evening of the 17th with Captain

Mac Neyl; and, on the 18th, the whole fleet, consisting of my own

barges, together with three from Magdenberg, and those from the River

Cottica, arrived safe at anchor in the roads of Paramaribo, where three

transports lay ready to receive us, on board of which vessels I

immediately embarked all the troops that had come down under my

command.

This service being accomplished, I went ashore, and made my report to

Colonel Fourgeoud; after which I went to visit Joanna and her boy,

whom, to my great joy, I found very much recovered.

The following day I was again sent on board, to make the necessary

arrangements for the voyage; and on the 20th I dined with Colonel

Fourgeoud, where, to my surprize, I found two species of fish, which I

have never mentioned; the one is called the haddock, being much like

ours, but rather larger and whiter coloured: the other the separee,

which a little resembles the skait. At the dessert was a fruit called

in Surinam zurzacka, which I believe by the English is called the

sour-sap. It grows upon a tree of a moderate size, with a grey bark,

and leaves like those of the orange-tree, but set in pairs; the fruit

is of a pyramidical form, heavier than the largest pear, and all

covered over with inoffensive prickles: the skin is very thin, the pulp

a soft pithy substance as white as milk, and of a sweet taste, mixed

with a most agreeable acid, in which are seeds like the large kernels

of an apple. Another species of small zurzacka grows in this country,

something resembling hops, but is of no use whatever. We had also the

fruit called sabatille, which grows on a large tree, the leaves like

those of the laurel. This fruit is the size of a peach, very round, and

of a brown colour, covered over with a soft down: when cut in two, the

pulp is not unlike marmalade, in which are found the seeds; it is such

a luscious sweet, that to many palates it is even disagreeable.

On the 21st we once more received our clearance, but in card money, by

which we all lost very considerably; however, I instantly went to Mrs.

Godefroy, and again gave her all the money that was in my pocket, being

no more than £. 40. This excellent woman now renewed her entreaties

that I should carry my boy and his mother with me to Holland, but to no

purpose; Joanna was perfectly immoveable, even to a degree of heroism,

and no persuasion could make the least impression upon her, until her

redemption should be made complete by the payment of the very last

farthing. In this situation we affected to bear our fate with perfect

resignation, though what each of us felt in particular may much more

easily be imagined than described.

The regiment’s colours were now carried on board on the 23d in great

state, which put a final close to the expedition, but without receiving

any honours from Fort Zealandia, not a single gun being fired, nor even

the flag hoisted on the occasion, to the great mortification of Colonel

Fourgeoud, though in effect it was chiefly owing to his own neglect, as

he had never given the Governor official notice of his intended

departure. The baggage was also sent on board the ships; and a

gentleman of the name of Van Heyst entertained the marines at his

private expence with three hundred bottles of wine, fruit, &c.

I have often remarked the hospitality and generosity of these people,

which I now also once more experienced, receiving various presents of

fruits and preserves from my numerous friends, to refresh me at sea

while on the voyage; amongst the preserves were the female pappayas,

the male bearing no fruit. This grows on a grey trunk, near twenty feet

high, straight, and pithy within, the top being covered with a crown,

and only fourteen or sixteen diverging leaves, extremely large and

digitated. The fruit grows close to the trunk; the flower or blossom

has a most delicious fragrance. When ripe, it is the size and shape of

a water-melon, and turns from green to yellow, but its pulp is more

firm and solid: the inner pulp is soft and slimy, filled with

innumerable seeds. This fruit at full maturity is cut in pieces and

boiled, when it eats like English turnips; but they use it principally

for confectionary and sweetmeats, when young, and with its blossoms

being both extremely delicate and wholesome. I had also sent me some

fine preserved ginger; this is the root of a kind of reedy stalk, that

never exceeds two feet in height, with long, narrow pointed leaves.

These roots are tuberous, flattish, small, and clustered in many

different shapes, not unlike pig-potatoes, and of nearly the same

colour in the inside, but fibrous, acid, hot, and aromatic; the smell

is highly fragrant: it is well known to be not only an agreeable

preserve, but in many cases an excellent medicine.——But to proceed.

On the 24th of July, the sails being bent to the yards, we at last

proceeded in corps to take leave of his Excellency the Governor of the

colony, who, while he still received us with the greatest politeness,

yet gave our hero to understand, that were his colours now to be sent

on board, they should most certainly be saluted with those honours

which indisputably were their due. After which he sent the whole corps

of Society officers to the head-quarters in state, to wish us a

prosperous voyage to Holland; and in this contest of etiquette his

Excellency most assuredly led the van; for hinting which, however, to

some of Fourgeoud’s favourites, I had nearly engaged myself once more

in a serious quarrel. Our men, who had been on board since the 18th,

being now joined by their officers, the poor remains of this fine

regiment were thus finally embarked, and in the highest flow of

spirits, expecting to set sail the following day for Europe; while (one

alone excepted) every countenance wore the appearance of happiness and

joy; and nothing indeed could equal the exultation of the few surviving

troops, when the next morning the orders were issued for the ships to

weigh anchor and put to sea.

But it was by fate ordained that their eager hopes and expectations

once more should be blasted: for on the very moment of departure, a

ship entered the river with dispatches, inclosing an order for the

regiment immediately to re-enter the woods, and remain in the colony

until relieved by fresh troops to be sent out from Holland for that

purpose. The SINCERE THANKS of his Serene Highness the Prince of Orange

were now read to the men from the quarter-deck of each vessel, “for the

manly and spirited conduct they had displayed during so long a trial,

and so many great and unprecedented hardships;” but as they concluded

with orders for the troops to disembark, and remain in this dreadful

service, I never saw dejection, disappointment, and despair so strongly

marked: while at this moment I, who but just before had been completely

miserable, was now in turn the only one who was not depressed with

sorrow.

In the midst of this gloomy scene, the men were ordered to give three

cheers, which the marines on board one of the vessels absolutely

refused to comply with: Colonel Seyburg, and unluckily myself, were in

consequence ordered to compel them; which he undertook, with a cane in

one hand, and a loaded pistol cocked in the other. Knowing his temper

to be fiery and irascible, what did I not feel at this moment? I

suddenly leapt into the boat that lay along-side, where, after

haranguing those few that leaned over the gunwale, I promised the

ship’s crew twenty gallons of Holland’s gin if they would only begin

the melancholy chorus. Then mounting again the quarter-deck, I

acquainted the Colonel that all were now ready and willing to obey his

commands; we then re-entered the boat, and in shoving off had the

satisfaction to receive three hearty cheers from the sailors, in which

joined a few marines, but with such languid looks and heavy hearts as

cannot be described.

At this time however the Prince of Orange’s goodness of heart appeared

in a conspicuous light, as he ordered all private accounts due by the

troops to surgeons and physicians to be paid by the treasury; which,

however trifling it may appear, was no trifle to many of the officers,

&c. and evinced an attention in his Serene Highness which is not always

to be found in princes, while all knew his sorrow for the hard lot of

his soldiers, but which could not yet be dispensed with, consistent

with the general good.

If our disembarkation distressed the troops, it afforded joy to most of

the colonists; as indeed a petition, signed by the principal

inhabitants, had been presented to Colonel Fourgeoud but two days

before, “praying that our regiment might stay some time longer, and

give the finishing stroke to the rebels, as we had so gloriously begun,

and persevered in routing and harassing them;” which indeed was

certainly true, for our regiment, in conjunction with the Society and

rangers, had demolished most settlements the rebels possessed in the

colony, and had driven them to so considerable a distance, that their

depredations, and the desertion of slaves, were incomparably less than

upon our arrival; and this was assuredly much better than the Dutch

making a shameful peace with them, as had been done with the rebels of

the Owca and Sarameca settlements before, yet which would probably

again have been the consequence had we not landed in Guiana.

As an instance of the insolence of savages, when perfectly independant,

I must relate a conversation which passed between one of this

description and myself at Paramaribo, where the troops were allowed

some time to refresh themselves before they again retook the

field:—Dining one day at Captain Mac Neyl’s, who was now come to town

from his estate, a captain of the Owca negroes, our supposed allies,

came in to demand money from his lady; and being very importunate, I

desired her in English to “give him a dram, and he would be gone;”

which the fellow understanding, called me without the door, and lifting

up his silver-headed cane, asked me, “If that house was my own? and if

not, what business I had to interfere? I am,” said he, in a thundering

voice, “Captain Fortune Dago-So; and, if I had you in my country at

Owca, I would make the very earth drink up your blood.” To which I

replied, drawing my sword, “That my name was Stedman; and that if he

dared to utter one insolent expression more, my weapon should find the

shortest way through his body.” Upon which he snapped his fingers, and

marched off, leaving me much displeased, and blaming Fourgeoud for

shewing so much indulgence to such a set of banditti. In the evening,

as I returned from dinner, I met the same black fellow again, who,

stepping short up to me, said, “Massera, you are a man, a very brave

fellow; won’t you now give some money to the Owca Captain?” This I

sternly refused; he then kissed my hand, and shewed his teeth (he said)

in token of reconciliation, promising to send me a present of

pistachio-nuts, which, however, never did arrive, nor indeed should I

have tasted.

Though we continued in Surinam some time longer, our future services

could add but very little to its prosperity, as our numbers were now so

very few, and out of this number, small as it was, nine officers and

above one hundred and sixty privates, all sick and incurable, embarked

again for Holland on the 1st of August. I was ill with an ague at this

time, and had the offer of making one of the party, but declined it,

being determined to see the end of the expedition if I could; I however

availed myself of the opportunity to send some presents to my friends

in Europe; amongst these were a couple of beautiful parrots, two

curious monkies, an elegant collection of fine butterflies, three

chests of sweetmeats, and some pickles, all shipped on board the ship

Paramaribo, and under the care of Serjeant Fowler, who was, poor

fellow, one of the invalids bound for Amsterdam.

Major Medlar being quite emaciated with fatigue and hardships, now also

sailed for Holland; thus, during his absence acting as major, I began

to entertain an expectation that I should one day carry home the

regiment myself, so very rapidly were our officers daily diminishing;

and yet amongst those few who remained two had the courage at this time

to venture upon matrimony, and married two Creole ladies, both widows.

Every thing now being peaceable and quiet, I recovered my strength so

far as on the 10th to walk to Mrs. Godefroy, when I acquainted her that

I wished much to emancipate at least Johnny Stedman; and requested her

to become bail before the court, for the usual sum of £. 300, as he

should never be any charge to the colony of Surinam. But this she

peremptorily declined, though there was no risque, it being only a

matter of form; at which I could not help feeling some astonishment,

till I was acquainted that she had actually refused the same favour to

her own son.

The mention of slavery reminds me of a debt which I seem to have

incurred to my reader. I have from time to time given some account of

the mode in which slaves are brought to this market, and of the manner

in which they are treated—But I feel that I have not been sufficiently

full upon this subject; and I am the more disposed to bring forward all

the information that I have gained concerning the negroes, because I

flatter myself that I shall be able to bring some truths to light, that

have hitherto been unobserved or imperfectly related, at least to the

generality of Europeans.

In the first place, as to the complexion of a negro, this, as I have

observed before, is I am persuaded entirely owing to the burning

climate in which he lives, and an atmosphere still more heated by the

sandy desarts, over which the trade winds pass before they reach the

habitable parts. The Indians of America, on the contrary, who indeed

live under the same degree of latitude, have this wind refreshed by the

Atlantic Ocean, and are copper-coloured; and the inhabitants of

Abyssinia, who receive it cooled by the Arabian and the Indian Seas,

are entirely olive. Thus north of the great River Senegal the

complexion changes from black to brown amongst the Moors, as it does

toward the south amongst the Caffrarians and the Hottentots; and I am

of opinion, that the woolly texture of their hair is an effect

proceeding from the same cause. The epidermis or cuticle of the negroes

I have seen dissected more than once; it is clear and transparent, but

between this and the real skin lies a thin follicle, which is perfectly

black, which being removed by severe flagellation, or by scalding,

exposes a complexion not inferior to that of an European.

Narrative, of a five years' expedition against the Revolted Negroes of Surinam, in Guiana on the Wild Coast of South America; from the year 1772 to 1777 ... Volume 2 (of 2) · 第 17 / 19 章

On the 20th, we marched to visit Cofaay, when I perceiving the unhappy