Returning to the Museum and to Velazquez, we find ourselves in front of

his greatest historical work, the Surrender of Breda. This is probably

the most utterly unaffected historical painting in existence. There is

positively no stage business about it. On the right is the Spanish

staff, on the left the deputation of the vanquished Flemings. In the

centre the great Spinola accepts the keys of the city from the governor;

his attitude and face are full of dignity softened by generous and

affable grace. He lays his hand upon the shoulder of the Flemish

general, and you can see he is paying him some chivalrous compliment on

the gallant fight he has lost. If your eyes wander through the open

space between the two escorts, you see a wonderful widespread landscape

in the Netherlands, which would form a fine picture if the figures all

were gone. Opposite this great work is another which artists consider

greater,--Las Meninas. When Luca Giordano came from Italy he inquired

for this picture, and said on seeing it, "This is the theology of

painting." If our theology were what it should be, and cannot be,

absolute and unquestionable truth, Luca the Quick-worker would have been

right. Velazquez was painting the portrait of a stupid little infanta

when the idea came to him of perpetuating the scene just as it was. We

know how we have wished to be sure of the exact accessories of past

events. The modern rage for theatrical local color is an illustration of

this desire. The great artist, who must have honored his art, determined

to give to future ages an exact picture of one instant of his glorious

life. It is not too much to say he has done this. He stands before his

easel, his pencils in his hand. The little princess is stiffly posing in

the centre. Her little maids are grouped about her. Two hideous dwarfs

on the right are teasing a noble dog who is too drowsy and magnanimous

to growl. In the background at the end of a long gallery a gentleman is

opening a door to the garden. The presence of royalty is indicated by

the reflection of the faces of the king and queen in a small mirror,

where you would expect to see your own. The longer you look upon this

marvellous painting, the less possible does it seem that it is merely

the placing of color on canvas which causes this perfect illusion. It

does not seem possible that you are looking at a plane surface. There is

a stratum of air before, behind, and beside these figures. You could

walk on that floor and see how the artist is getting on with the

portrait. There is space and light in this picture, as in any room.

Every object is detached, as in the common miracle of the stereoscope.

If art consist in making a fleeting moment immortal, if the True is a

higher ideal than the Beautiful, then it will be hard to find a greater

painting than this. It is utterly without beauty; its tone is a cold

olive green-gray; there is not one redeeming grace or charm about it

except the noble figure of Velazquez himself,--yet in its austere

fidelity to truth it stands incomparable in the world. It gained

Velazquez his greatest triumph. You see on his breast a sprawling red

cross, painted evidently by an unskilful hand. This was the gracious

answer made by Philip IV. when the artist asked him if anything was

wanting to the picture. This decoration, daubed by the royal hand, was

the accolade of the knighthood of Santiago,--an honor beyond the dreams

of an artist of that day. It may be considered the highest compliment

ever paid to a painter, except the one paid by Courbet to himself, when

he refused to be decorated by the Man of December.

Among Velazquez's most admirable studies of life is his picture of the

Borrachos. A group of rustic roysterers are admitting a neophyte into

the drunken _confrerie._ He kneels to receive a crown of ivy from the

hands of the king of the revel. A group of older tipplers are filling

their cups, or eyeing their brimming glasses, with tipsy, mock-serious

glances. There has never been a chapter written which so clearly shows

the drunkard's nature as this vulgar anacreontic. A thousand men have

painted drunken frolics, but never one with such distinct spiritual

insight as this. To me the finest product of Jordaens' genius is his

Bohnen Koenig in the Belvedere, but there you see only the incidents of

the mad revel; every one is shouting or singing or weeping with maudlin

glee or tears. But in this scene of the Borrachos there is nothing

scenic or forced. These topers have come together to drink, for the love

of the wine,--the fun is secondary. This wonderful reserve of Velazquez

is clearly seen in his conception of the king of the rouse. He is a

young man, with a heavy, dull, somewhat serious face, fat rather than

bloated, rather pale than flushed. He is naked to the waist to show the

plump white arms and shoulders and the satiny skin of the voluptuary;

one of those men whose heads and whose stomachs are too loyal ever to

give them _Katzenjammer_ or remorse. The others are of the commoner type

of haunters of wine-shops,--with red eyes and coarse hides and grizzled

matted hair,--but every man of them inexorably true, and a predestined

sot.

We must break away from Velazquez, passing by his marvellous portraits

of kings and dwarfs, saints and poodles,--among whom there is a dwarf of

two centuries ago, who is too like Tom Thumb to serve for his twin

brother,--and a portrait of Aesop, which is a flash of intuition, an

epitome of all the fables. Before leaving the Spaniards we must look at

the most pleasing of all Ribera's works,--the Ladder-Dream of Jacob.

The patriarch lies stretched on the open plain in the deep sleep of the

weary. To the right in a broad shaft of cloudy gold the angels are

ascending and descending. The picture is remarkable for its mingling the

merits of Ribera's first and second manner. It is a Caravaggio in its

strength and breadth of light and shade, and a Correggio in its delicacy

of sentiment and refined beauty of coloring. He was not often so

fortunate in his Parmese efforts. They are usually marked by a timidity

and an attempt at prettiness inconceivable in the haughty and impulsive

master of the Neapolitan school.

Of the three great Spaniards, Ribera is the least sympathetic. He often

displays a tumultuous power and energy to which his calmer rivals are

strangers. But you miss in him that steady devotion to truth which

distinguishes Velazquez, and that spiritual lift which ennobles Murillo.

The difference, I conceive, lies in the moral character of the three.

Ribera was a great artist, and the others were noble men. Ribera passed

a youth of struggle and hunger and toil among the artists of Rome,--a

stranger and penniless in the magnificent city,--picking up crusts in

the street and sketching on quiet curbstones, with no friend, and no

name but that of Spagnoletto,--the little Spaniard. Suddenly rising to

fame, he broke loose from his Roman associations and fled to Naples,

where he soon became the wealthiest and the most arrogant artist of his

time. He held continually at his orders a faction of _bravi_ who drove

from Naples, with threats and insults and violence, every artist of

eminence who dared visit the city. Car-racci and Guido only saved their

lives by flight, and the blameless and gifted Domenichino, it is said,

was foully murdered by his order. It is not to such a heart as this that

is given the ineffable raptures of Murillo or the positive revelations

of Velazquez. These great souls were above cruelty or jealousy.

Velazquez never knew the storms of adversity. Safely anchored in the

royal favor, he passed his uneventful life in the calm of his beloved

work. But his hand and home were always open to the struggling artists

of Spain. He was the benefactor of Alonzo Cano; and when Murillo came up

to Madrid, weary and footsore with his long tramp from Andalusia,

sustained by an innate consciousness of power, all on fire with a

picture of Van Dyck he had seen in Seville, the rich and honored painter

of the court received with generous kindness the shabby young wanderer,

clothed him, and taught him, and watched with noble delight the first

flights of the young eagle whose strong wing was so soon to cleave the

empyrean. And when Murillo went back to Seville he paid his debt by

doing as much for others. These magnanimous hearts were fit company for

the saints they drew.

We have lingered so long with the native artists we shall have little to

say of the rest. There are ten fine Raphaels, but it is needless to

speak of them. They have been endlessly reproduced. Raphael is known and

judged by the world. After some centuries of discussion the scorners and

the critics are dumb. All men have learned the habit of Albani, who, in

a frivolous and unappreciative age, always uncovered his head at the

name of Raphael Sanzio. We look at his precious work with a mingled

feeling of gratitude for what we have, and of rebellious wonder that

lives like his and Shelley's should be extinguished in their glorious

dawn, while kings and country gentlemen live a hundred years. What

boundless possibilities of bright achievement these two divine youths

owed us in the forty years more they should have lived! Raphael's

greatest pictures in Madrid are the Spasimo di Sicilia, and the Holy

Family, called La Perla. The former has a singular history. It was

painted for a convent in Palermo, shipwrecked on the way, and thrown

ashore on the gulf of Genoa. It was again sent to Sicily, brought to

Spain by the Viceroy of Naples, stolen by Napoleon, and in Paris was

subjected to a brilliantly successful operation for transferring the

layer of paint from the worm-eaten wood to canvas. It came back to Spain

with other stolen goods from the Louvre. La Perla was bought by Philip

IV. at the sale of Charles I.'s effects after his decapitation. Philip

was fond of Charles, but could not resist the temptation to profit by

his death. This picture was the richest of the booty. It is, of all the

faces of the Virgin extant, the most perfectly beautiful and one of the

least spiritual.

There is another fine Madonna, commonly called La Virgen del Pez, from a

fish which young Tobit holds in his hand. It is rather tawny in color,

as if it had been painted on a pine board and the wood had asserted

itself from below. It is a charming picture, with all the great Roman's

inevitable perfection of design; but it is incomprehensible that

critics, M. Viardot among them, should call it the first in rank of

Raphael's Virgins in Glory. There are none which can dispute that title

with Our Lady of San Sisto, unearthly and supernatural in beauty and

majesty.

The school of Florence is represented by a charming Mona Lisa of

Leonardo da Vinci, almost identical with that of the Louvre; and six

admirable pictures of Andrea del Sarto. But the one which most attracts

and holds all those who regard the Faultless Painter with sympathy, and

who admiring his genius regret his errors, is a portrait of his wife

Lucrezia Fede, whose name, a French writer has said, is a double

epigram. It was this capricious and wilful beauty who made poor Andrea

break his word and embezzle the money King Francis had given him to

spend for works of art. Yet this dangerous face is his best excuse,--the

face of a man-snarer, subtle and passionate and cruel in its blind

selfishness, and yet so beautiful that any man might yield to it against

the cry of his own warning conscience. Browning must have seen it before

he wrote, in his pathetic poem,--

"Let my hands frame your face in your hair's gold,

You beautiful Lucrezia, that are mine!"

Nowhere, away from the Adriatic, is the Venetian school so richly

represented as in Madrid. Charles and Philip were the most munificent

friends and patrons of Titian, and the Royal Museum counts among its

treasures in consequence the enormous number of forty-three pictures by

the wonderful centenarian. Among these are two upon which he set great

value,--a Last Supper, which has unfortunately mouldered to ruin in the

humid refectory of the Escorial, equal in merit and destiny with that of

Leonardo; and the Gloria, or apotheosis of the imperial family, which,

after the death of Charles, was brought from Yuste to the Escorial, and

thence came to swell the treasures of the Museum. It is a grand and

masterly work. The vigorous genius of Titian has grappled with the

essential difficulties of a subject that trembles on the balance of

ridiculous and sublime, and has come out triumphant. The Father and the

Son sit on high. The Operating Spirit hovers above them. The Virgin in

robes of azure stands in the blaze of the Presence. The celestial army

is ranged around. Below, a little lower than the angels, are Charles and

Philip with their wives, on their knees, with white cowls and clasped

hands,--Charles in his premature age, with worn face and grizzled beard;

and Philip in his youth of unwholesome fairness, with red lips and pink

eyelids, such as Titian painted him in the Adonis. The foreground is

filled with prophets and saints of the first dignity, and a kneeling

woman, whose face is not visible, but whose attitude and drapery are

drawn with the sinuous and undulating grace of that hand which could not

fail. Every figure is turned to the enthroned Deity, touched with

ineffable light. The artist has painted heaven, and is not absurd. In

that age of substantial faith such achievements were possible.

There are two Venuses by Titian very like that of Dresden, but the heads

have not the same dignity; and a Danae which is a replica of the Vienna

one. His Salome bearing the Head of John the Baptist is one of the

finest impersonations of the pride of life conceivable. So

unapproachable are the soft lights and tones on the perfect arms and

shoulders of the full-bodied maiden, that Tintoret one day exclaimed in

despair before it, "That fellow paints with ground flesh."

This gallery possesses one of the last works of Titian,--the Battle of

Lepanto, which was fought when the artist was ninety-four years of age.

It is a courtly allegory,--King Philip holds his little son in his arms,

a courier angel brings the news of victory, and to the infant a

palm-branch and the scroll _Majora tibi._ Outside you see the smoke and

flash of a naval battle, and a malignant and tur-baned Turk lies bound

on the floor. It would seem incredible that this enormous canvas should

have been executed at such an age, did we not know that when the pest

cut the mighty master off in his hundredth year he was busily at work

upon a Descent from the Cross, which Palma the Elder finished on his

knees and dedicated to God: Quod Titianus inchoatum reliquit Palma

reverenter absolvit Deoque dicavit opus.

The vast representation of Titian rather injures Veronese and Tintoret.

Opposite the Gloria of Yuste hangs the sketch of that stupendous

Paradise of Tintoret, which we see in the Palace of the Doges,--the

biggest picture ever painted by mortal, thirty feet high and

seventy-four long.

The sketch was secured by Velazquez in his tour through Italy. The most

charming picture of Veronese is a Venus and Adonis, which is finer than

that of Titian,--a classic and most exquisite idyl of love and sleep,

cool shadow and golden-sifted sunshine. His most considerable work in

the gallery is a Christ teaching the Doctors, magnificent in

arrangement, severely correct in drawing, and of a most vivid and

dramatic interest.

We pass through a circular vaulted chamber to reach the Flemish rooms.

There is a choice though scanty collection of the German and French

schools. Albert Durer has an Adam and Eve, and a priceless portrait of

himself as perfectly preserved as if it were painted yesterday. He wears

a curious and picturesque costume,--striped black-and-white,--a graceful

tasselled cap of the same. The picture is sufficiently like the statue

at Nuremberg; a long South-German face, blue-eyed and thin,

fair-whiskered, with that expression of quiet confidence you would

expect in the man who said one day, with admirable candor, when people

were praising a picture of his, "It could not be better done." In this

circular room are four great Claudes, two of which, Sunrise and Sunset,

otherwise called the Embarcation of Sta. Paula, and Tobit and the Angel,

are in his best and richest manner. It is inconceivable to us, who

graduate men by a high-school standard, that these refined and most

elegant works could have been produced by a man so imperfectly educated

as Claude Lorrain.

There remain the pictures of the Dutch and the Flemings. It is due to

the causes we have mentioned in the beginning that neither in Antwerp

nor Dresden nor Paris is there such wealth and profusion of the

Netherlands art as in this mountain-guarded corner of Western Europe. I

shall have but a word to say of these three vast rooms, for Rubens and

Van Dyck and Teniers are known to every one. The first has here a

representation so complete that if Europe were sunk by a cataclysm from

the Baltic to the Pyrenees every essential characteristic of the great

Fleming could still be studied in this gallery. With the exception of

his Descent from the Cross in the Cathedral at Antwerp, painted in a

moment of full inspiration that never comes twice in a life, everything

he has done elsewhere may be matched in Madrid. His largest picture here

is an Adoration of the Kings, an overpowering exhibition of wasteful

luxuriance of color and _fougue_ of composition. To the left the Virgin

stands leaning with queenly majesty over the effulgent Child. From this

point the light flashes out over the kneeling magi, the gorgeously

robed attendants, the prodigality of velvet and jewels and gold, to fade

into the lovely clear-obscure of a starry night peopled with dim camels

and cattle. On the extreme right is a most graceful and gallant portrait

of the artist on horseback. We have another fine self-portraiture in the

Garden of Love,--a group of lords and ladies in a delicious pleasance

where the greatest seigneur is Peter Paul Rubens and the finest lady is

Helen Forman. These true artists had to paint for money so many ignoble

faces that they could not be blamed for taking their revenge in painting

sometimes their own noble heads. Van Dyck never drew a profile so

faultless in manly beauty as his own which we see on the same canvas

with that of his friend the Earl of Bristol. Look at the two faces side

by side, and say whether God or the king can make the better nobleman.

Among those mythological subjects in which Rubens delighted, the best

here are his Perseus and Andromeda, where the young hero comes

gloriously in a brand-new suit of Milanese armor, while the lovely

princess, in a costume that never grows old-fashioned, consisting of

sunshine and golden hair, awaits him and deliverance in beautiful

resignation; a Judgment of Paris, the Three Graces,--both prodigies of

his strawberries-and-cream color; and a curious suckling of Hercules,

which is the prototype or adumbration of the ecstatic vision of St.

Bernard. He has also a copy of Titian's Adam and Eve, in an

out-of-the-way place downstairs, which should be hung beside the

original, to show the difference of handling of the two master

colorists.

Especially happy is this Museum in its Van Dycks. Besides those

incomparable portraits of Lady Oxford, of Liberti the Organist of

Antwerp, and others better than the best of any other man, there are a

few large and elaborate compositions such as I have never seen

elsewhere. The principal one is the Capture of Christ by Night in the

Garden of Gethsemane, which has all the strength of Rubens, with a more

refined study of attitudes and a greater delicacy of tone and touch.

Another is the Crowning with Thorns,--although of less dimensions, of

profound significance in expression, and a flowing and marrowy softness

of execution. You cannot survey the work of Van Dyck in this collection,

so full of deep suggestion, showing an intellect so vivid and so

refined, a mastery of processes so thorough and so intelligent, without

the old wonder of what he would have done in that ripe age when Titian

and Murillo and Shakespeare wrought their best and fullest, and the old

regret for the dead,--as Edgar Poe sings, the doubly dead in that they

died so young. We are tempted to lift the veil that hides the unknown,

at least with the furtive hand of conjecture; to imagine a field of

unquenched activity where the early dead, free from the clogs and

trammels of the lower world, may follow out the impulses of their

diviner nature,--where Andrea has no wife, and Raphael and Van Dyck no

disease,--where Keats and Shelley have all eternity for their lofty

rhyme,--where Ellsworth and Koerner and the Lowell boys can turn their

alert and athletic intelligence to something better than war.

A CASTLE IN THE AIR

I have sometimes thought that a symptom of the decay of true kinghood in

modern times is the love of monarchs for solitude. In the early days

when monarchy was a real power to answer a real want, the king had no

need to hide himself. He was the strongest, the most knowing, the most

cunning. He moved among men their acknowledged chief. He guided and

controlled them. He never lost his dignity by daily use. He could steal

a horse like Diomede, he could mend his own breeches like Dagobert, and

never tarnish the lustre of the crown by it. But in later times the

throne has become an anachronism. The wearer of a crown has done nothing

to gain it but give himself the trouble to be born. He has no claim to

the reverence or respect of men. Yet he insists upon it, and receives

some show of it. His life is mainly passed in keeping up this battle for

a lost dignity and worship. He is given up to shams and ceremonies.

To a life like this there is something embarrassing in the movement and

activity of a great city. The king cannot join in it without a loss of

prestige. Being outside of it, he is vexed and humiliated by it. The

empty forms become nauseous in the midst of this honest and wholesome

reality of out-of-doors.

Hence the necessity of these quiet retreats in the forests, in the

water-guarded islands, in the cloud-girdled mountains. Here the world is

not seen or heard. Here the king may live with such approach to nature

as his false and deformed education will allow. He is surrounded by

nothing but the world of servants and courtiers, and it requires little

effort of the imagination to consider himself chief and lord.

It was this spirit which in the decaying ripeness of the Bourbon dynasty

drove the Louis from Paris to Versailles and from Versailles to Marly.

Millions were wasted to build the vast monument of royal fatuity, and

when it was done the Grand Monarque found it necessary to fly from time

to time to the sham solitude and mock retirement he had built an hour

away.

When Philip V. came down from France to his splendid exile on the throne

of Spain, he soon wearied of the interminable ceremonies of the

Cas-tilian court, and finding one day, while hunting, a pleasant farm on

the territory of the Segovian monks, flourishing in a wrinkle of the

Guadarrama Mountains, he bought it, and reared the Palace of La Granja.

It is only kings who can build their castles in the air of palpable

stones and mortar. This lordly pleasure-house stands four thousand feet

above the sea level. On this commanding height, in this savage Alpine

loneliness, in the midst of a scenery once wildly beautiful, but now

shorn and shaven into a smug likeness of a French garden, Philip passed

all the later years of his gloomy and inglorious life.

It has been ever since a most tempting summer-house to all the Bourbons.

When the sun is calcining the plains of Castile, and the streets of

Madrid are white with the hot light of midsummer, this palace in the

clouds is as cool and shadowy as spring twilights. And besides, as all

public business is transacted in Madrid, and La Granja is a day's

journey away, it is too much trouble to send a courier every day for the

royal signature,--or, rather, rubric, for royalty in Spain is above

handwriting, and gives its majestic approval with a flourish of the

pen,--so that everything waits a week or so, and much business goes

finally undone; and this is the highest triumph of Spanish industry and

skill.

We had some formal business with the court of the regent, and were not

sorry to learn that his highness would not return to the capital for

some weeks, and that consequently, following the precedent of a certain

prophet, we must go to the mountain.

Castilian Days · 第 8 / 15 段