absurd in me to expect to throw any new interest into the discussion,
but by making clear the accounts I collected; to do which I must decline
the course of the Niger from Cabi (Mr. Horneman writes it flows
southward from Haoussa) even to a junction with the Bahr Kulla. For,
placing Yaoora in 13° 30′ N. and 8° 30′ E. in conformity with its
distance from Timbuctoo and a declining course to the Kulla, the
horizontal distance to Yahndi, the capital of Dagwumba, will be 600 B.
miles: now 42 journies, the greatest number allowed by the travellers,
at 20 miles each, (rejecting one third, as heretofore, lost in the
windings of the path) give the horizontal distance at 560 B. miles. This
is certainly an additional argument to the similarity of the names
Quolla and Kulla, for the identity of these rivers; but not so strong a
one as that the routes both of Moors and Negroes, allow but 40 journies
from Dagwumba to the point of crossing the Niger for Houssa. The course
to this point was described by the Moors as a little to the eastward of
north: now 40 journies on a N.N.E. course, by the former rule, places
this ferry 15° 1′ N. and 3° 33′ E. agreeing very well with our previous
position of Houssa, and proving that the course of the Niger must
decline considerably, for more than two extra journies would otherwise
be required for the north eastward route from Dagwumba to Yaoora. Major
Rennell only writes that the course of the Niger is _probably_ to
Wangara. Mr. Ledyard, in his comparatively minute description of that
country, (which I shall notice in the route to Bornoo) says nothing of
its bordering on the Niger. Major Rennell, in the construction of the
geography of Mr. Horneman’s report, writes, “M. D’Anville also had an
idea, and so describes it in his map of Africa, 1749 (possibly from
actual information,) that the Niger declined to the south beyond Gana,
so that the termination of it in the lake Semegonda was 3½ degrees of
latitude to the south of Gana.” There is a kingdom called Kulla as well
as a river, and there is also a kingdom Quollaraba: raba being probably
no more than an adjunct equal to the prefix dar, and signifying a
kingdom. Mr. Dupuis, in his notes on Adams, says of an intelligent
Negro, “his account was chiefly curious from his description of a nation
which he called Gallo or _Quallo_, which conveyed to me an idea of a
people, more advanced in the arts, and wealthier than any that I had
previously heard of: within three days journey of the capital was a
large lake or river which communicated with the Wed Nile.” The commended
arguments of the Quarterly Review, (which I have never had the advantage
of reading,) must be in a great degree auxiliary, in arguing, to support
the Congo hypothesis, a course of the Niger equally declined with that
which I have followed for the identity of the Quolla and Kulla. The
junction of the Quolla with the Bahr Abiad, or Nil, as the Moors called
it, cannot be more descriptively expressed, according to every account I
received, than in the words of Mr. Horneman. “Some days past I spoke to
a man who had seen Mr. Brown in Darfoor, he gave me some information
respecting the countries he travelled through, and told me that the
communication of the Niger with the Nile was not to be doubted, but that
this communication before the rainy season was very little.”[42]
We will pursue the course of the Quolla from Yaoora (where I should
judge from description it must be about 3 miles wide) before we apply
the routes northward of it.[43] One journey eastward of Yaoora,
(sometimes called Yawooree by the Negroes,) it passed Nooffie, doubtless
the Nyffe of Mr. Horneman and others, and which De Lisle has written
Nouffy: 3 journies thence it passed Boussa, which Amadi Fatouma
reported, as it was to me also (see Diary) as the place of Mr. Park’s
death, but I could hear nothing of the rock and door. Boussa is not in
Major Rennell’s map, but I observed Bousa in the map of De Lisle before
alluded to; it is probably the Berrisa of Edrisi. Twelve journies thence
it passed Atagara, but, previously, Hoomee, and Rakkah.[44] Southward of
the latter, they described an inland country called Koofee, possibly
Kosie, a country I shall presently introduce, as visited by a mulatto,
behind Lagos. Thirty journies from Atagara, it flowed through the
kingdom of Quollaraba,[45] which thus falls precisely where Major
Rennell has laid down the kingdom of Kulla. Six journies thence it
passed Mafeegoodoo, and 13 journies beyond, the lake Cadee or Caudee.
This I should consider to be the Cauga of Edrisi, which Major Rennell
has identified with the Fittri of Mr. Brown, for into this the second
large branch of the Niger, or the river Gambaroo, is said to run; but it
is considerably too much to the southward for the Cauga in Major
Rennell’s map, being, according to the accounts of the Moors, only 3
journies northward of the Quolla: yet Edrisi writes “besides a river of
the name of Nile or Neel _passes by_ Kauga.” What inclines me to think
the Cauga may be more distant from Bornoo the capital, though not from
the frontier of that kingdom, (15 journies being the number reported to
me as well as to Mr. Brown) is, that the Negroes of that city were not
so well acquainted with this lake as the Moors. My sketch in the map, of
course, represents the sketches and descriptions of the natives. They
described the Cadee or Caudee as an immense water, like a small sea,
frequently overflowing the neighbouring country, and sometimes so
convulsed as to throw up large quantities of fish and other contents;
meaning, in short, a volcanic lake. The Moors called it also the Bahr el
Noä, having a tradition that the waters of the deluge retired to, and
were absorbed in it. A very high mountain was spoken of, at an equal
distance between the Caudee and the Quolla.[46] Twelve journies from
Caudee, the Quolla received the river Sharee from northward, which, I
imagine, if not the Misselad, may be a river deriving its name from the
Abu Shareb of Major Rennell’s map. The Quolla was said to pass to the
southward of Bagarrimee, (the Baghermee of Mr. Brown.) Kalafarradoo, (I
cannot find any name nearer to this than the Courourfa of De Lisle, and
Kororfa, said in Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. to be W. of Begarmee). Foör (Darfur,
according to Mr. Brown, means the kingdom of Foör) and lastly to skirt
Waddaï, the Waddey of Mr. Horneman, who wrote that it was east of
Begharmee, and west of Darfoor; but, as it was reported to me east of
Darfoor, by every person, and as Mr. Brown did not hear of it to adjust
its position, I have placed it so.[47]
The junction with the Nile having taken place, as Mr. Horneman before
reported, south of Darfoor, they continued the course to a large country
called Soonar,[48] indisputably the kingdom of Sennaar. Hence to
Massar,[49] or Egypt, they did not always agree themselves in the
various names, nor can I recognise any on the map, unless their Shewa
Abenhassa be Bennassa, Minsoor, Misur, Gammeacha, Gammazie; Sooess,
Sohaig; Kaheea, Kahoul; Zaragoo, Nayazoogoo; and their Lamabalara, in
the country of Egypt, the Bahr be la ma of Mr. Horneman; of the latter
there can be no doubt.[50]
My friend, the Shereef Brahima had, as well as some others, been to
Mecca and Medina. I place great reliance on this man’s information
(invariably confirmed by the Negroes) from his caution and diffidence,
and my experience of his character; for he was ultimately a valuable
friend to the Mission: he was the only Moor who dared to refuse to be
present at human sacrifices. The MS. No. 2. is his writing, and
professedly the route from Dagwumba through Bornoo to Massar,[51] it
consists of six pages well written. This would have been a valuable man
to have engaged to travel through the interior, for he was capable of
making circumstantial minutes, and I think he might have been engaged to
do so by a moderate Fort pay. The Moors talk much of the King of
Santambool,[52] as a powerful monarch and formidable to the Christians.
It will excite surprise that I heard nothing of Wangara,[53] as was the
case with Mr. Brown, not even after I had, contrary to my general
custom, submitted the name: but I heard very much spontaneously of
Oongooroo. Mr. Horneman called Wangara, Ungura, and De Lisle, Ouangara,
we shall find it in the route from Yaoora to Bornoo or Barranoo. Bornoo
was described to me about north-east from Yaoora, which agrees very well
with Major Rennell’s position, established beyond all contradiction
short of an observation, but, the horizontal distance, (lowering the
place of Yaoora as I have done) thence to Bornoo would be upwards of
1000 B. miles, whereas they described it to be but 51 journies, which
allowing 20 miles to each, as the country was said to be much more
favourable to travelling, and the path more direct than that we came,
would give but an horizontal distance of 680 B. miles. Mr. Horneman
heard that Bornu was but 15 journies from Kassina; I was told 33 if
walked, 19 if rode. Major Rennell has made the distance about 30
journies, considering the 15 journies applicable to the western
boundaries of the empire, and not to the capital.
We will now return to Yahndi and proceed northwards to Houssa. Nineteen
journies from Yahndi is Matchaquawdie, six beyond is Goorooma, 10 thence
Dolooë, subject to Goorooma, and only five journies from the Quolla,
described as about two miles wide there. When Amadi Fatouma mentioned
that he passed Gourouma, I should suppose he meant this kingdom of
Goorooma, Dolooë, as subject to it, being probably included under that
name. I must impress, however, that this northern route from Dagwumba to
the Niger, being, with that from Kong to Jennë, the only ones
unauthenticated, otherwise than by cross examination, I do not report
them with the same confidence, which I do the others. Two journies from
the northern bank of the Quolla is Gamhadi, to which three large towns
belong, Dogondaghi, Toodonkassalee, and Toompasseä, and numerous
dependent crooms. There were three routes from Gamhadi, the first
northward to Houssa 15 journies, passing the large river Gambaroo the
ninth, between which and Houssa is a district called Zessa. The second
route is to Katinnee, a city and state of the Mallowa kingdom, one month
from the Quolla. On this route the Gambaroo is crossed the tenth day,
and Sowhoondë, Souoola, (perhaps Sala) Quattaraquassee, Doorooma, Soroo,
Zabbakou, Dinka, Doochingamza, and Dammisamia were mentioned as large
towns on the route. The third route was through the Fillanee country,
(doubtless the Fullan[54] of Ben Ali) which had been frequently at war
with Mallowa, to the kingdom of Kallaghee, 14 journies from the Quolla,
the Gambaroo being passed the tenth. The numerals of Kallaghee are
One Gadee.
Two Sillil.
Three Quan.
Four Foolloo.
Five Vydee.
Six Zoodoo.
Seven Etkassa.
Eight Shiddowka.
Nine Woollaä.
Ten Woma.
A country called Barrabadi was described eastward of Mallowa, between it
and Bornoo; its numerals corresponded with those of Bornoo.
We will now return again to Dagwumba, and follow the route thence, over
the Quolla, through Yaoora to Bornoo. Gamba we have already described as
five journies north eastward of Yahndi, thence two journies, over a high
mountain called Yerim, and across a river running southwards (which the
Moors called Mory, but which it would seem is the continuation of the
Karhala) is Gooroosie, four journies thence Zoogoo, probably the Zeggo
of Major Rennell’s map; 10 farther the kingdom of Barragoo. De Lisle has
placed his kingdom of Bourgou thereabouts. North-westward of Barragoo is
Koomba, the Kombah of Major Rennell’s map. The position of this kingdom
is pretty well ascertained, because those who came from it, described
Goorooma as its northern neighbour, and Barragoo to be the first kingdom
passed through in their journies to the coast below Whydah. Eight
journies from Barragoo is Toombeä, three beyond is Goodoobirree. A river
running to the Quolla (as it was said, but more probably from it) called
Leeäsa, flows close to the eastward of this path, and is crossed, going
from Goodoobirree southwards, to a large kingdom called Yariba by the
Moors, but Yarba more generally by the natives. Major Rennell has drawn
a river communicating with the Niger close to Youri, so has De Lisle.
This river Leeäsa is the only one I heard of, answering in the least
degree to that of Sidi Hamet, but Wassana was a name unknown. Aquallie
is the frontier town of Yariba, one journey from Goodoobirree, and one
from Bootee, second only to the capital, Katanga, four journies beyond
it. Yariba was described to be about 24 journies, through Hio, (its
immediate neighbour) from Arătakassee or Alătakassee, which we shall
hereafter recognise in Ardra: this determines its position pretty
well.[55] Dahomey was said to be tributary to Yariba, as well as to Hio,
which I have an impression is also tributary to Hio. From Hio to Dahomey
is seven journies. The military are despotic in Hio, they always
intercept the new King on his way to the palace, and demand his naming
some neighbouring country for their invasion and plunder, before they
confirm him. The King before the present, had named Dahomey, but after
three years neglect of the fulfilment, he ordered the army against a
northern neighbour. The army went, wasted and pillaged the country, but
when within a day’s march of the capital on their return, they sent
deputies to enjoin his abdication, as inevitable to a falsehood to them;
he was obstinate; they arrived and cut off his head. The numerals of Hio
are
One Innee.
Two Eygee.
Three Etta.
Four Ernee.
Five Aroon.
Six Effa.
Seven Eggay.
Eight Eggo.
Nine Essun.
Ten Eywaw.
The Hio man, who gave me the above numerals, spoke of the Apaccas as a
more powerful northern neighbour, but I never heard of them from any
other person.
Yariba must certainly be the Yarba of Imhammed, though he described it
as 18 or 20 journies from Gonjah towards the N.W., for he is likely to
have been incorrect in this, because we have proved him to be so, in
stating, that Ashantee was the capital of Tonouwah, which appears to be
a district or town of Dagwumba, the people of which kingdom are by no
means warlike as he represented them, nor have they any notion of taming
the elephant: he reported that Calanshee was a dependency of Ashantee,
whereas no Ashantee knows the name; that Gonjah was 46 journies from the
coast, when it is but 30. Major Rennell reasonably conceived the Yarba
of Imhammed to be the Yarra of De Lisle, at the back of Sierra Leone,
but as this country is not preserved in his own map, I presume it cannot
be of much consequence, politically or commercially, whereas Yariba,
indisputably eastward of Kong, is always announced to enquirers, both by
Moors and Negroes, as a very powerful, and much frequented kingdom.
Another argument is, that all the Moors I saw at Coomassie, were almost
ignorant of the countries westward, only speaking of those their
enquiries for the source of the Quolla had made known to them: indeed, I
did not see one who had travelled westward, or south westward of
Bambarra, but our Accra linguist told me that he had recognised a Moor
at the Rio Pongos, whom he had seen in Coomassie (when sent there on the
eve of the second Ashantee invasion) who told him that he had been two
months travelling from Kong, and crossed a very large river. Imhammed’s
Affow (if not Taffoo, or the Inta country) I conceive to be Afflou, a
town and district of the Krepee or Kerrapay country, and a short walk
from the sea by Quitta, westward of Yarba, as he says, but more than
eight journies. The Kerrapay country, which is extensive and
independent, will be described, in proceeding from Cape Coast Castle,
along the coast, eastward.
[Illustration: _London published as the Act directs by John Murray
Albemarle Street 4th. Jany. 1819._
_J. Walker Sculpt._]
To return to the route from Yahndi to Yaoora, three journies from
Goodoobirree towards the Quolla through Gillimakafoo, Garagaroogee, and
Paänghee, is the large city of Kaiama, and four beyond it, through
Mahalaba, (the nearest name to the Malel of Edrisi,) Marramoo, and
across the small river Wooroo, (running to the Quolla) is the city of
Wauwaw,[56] three journies from the Quolla. Ten journies from the
northern bank, through Yaoora, and skirting the eastern limits of
Zamfara, is Goobirree, so called by the Moors, and Goobur by the
Negroes.[57] Mr. Beaufoy learned that Gubur was to the south of Wangara,
and De Lisle writes it Goubour. Thence to Kassina, having crossed the
large river Gambaroo, is eight journies. Eighteen journies, calculated
at 18 miles each on a N.E. course, from the altered position of Yaoora,
would place Kassina in 15° 43′ N. and 10° 43′ E., instead of 16° N. and
11° 45′ E. Mr. Lucas learned that Kassina was five journies from the
Niger, or about 100 miles from that water, which it is likely to be from
the upper branch or the Gambaroo, which river skirting Kanoo, and
Oongooroo, (or Wangara,) before it descends to the lake Cadee, (though I
could not prove satisfactorily that it did so,) would account for
Edrisi’s placing Kano, and Wangara, on the Niger.[58] From Kassina to
Dawoorra is six journies: this must be the Daura of Mr. Horneman, though
in the drawing of the Marrabut it is placed north of Kano. From Dawoorra
to Kanoo is four journies. D’Anville placed it 90 miles to the N.E. of
Kassina, and in the drawing just alluded to, it is placed inland
northward of the Niger. The only authority for supporting Edrisi’s
position of it, is what Mr. Matra was told at Marocco. The Moor who
informed Mr. Beaufoy that boats went with the stream to Ghineä, (the
Gano or Kano of Major Rennell) placed Jinnie between it and Houssa, so
gross an inaccuracy as to justify our doubting him on the other point.
The Ginea of Leo more probably meant Jennë, and he seems to write of
that navigation as a distinct one from that to Melli eastward.[59] From
Kanoo, through the large towns Madagee and Adagia, to Oongooroo is nine
journies, but seven on a joma or camel, “Est iter octo dierum versus
orientem” (Edrisi.) From Oongooroo to Barranoo is 15 journies on foot
according to the Moors, nine on horseback according to the Negroes, by
route No. 12. Bornoo or Barranoo was spoken of as the first empire in
Africa,[60] the King’s name, according to the Moors, was Baba Alloo, but
the Negroes called him Massinnama.[61] Kassina, and the intermediate
countries on the route, were subject to him with many others. One
district belonging to Bornoo was named Panaroo, and the vassal King or
governor of it, Yandee Kooma. A small river, called Gaboöa[62] by the
Negroes, ran southwards near Bornoo, and six journies eastward from it,
close to Aweeac, a large one Zerrookoo Keroboobee. Mr. Horneman writes,
the Wad el Gazel is not a river, but a large and fertile valley. The
Negroes of Bornoo were well acquainted with Baghermee. Imhammed’s
recollection of the numerals of Bornoo must have been very imperfect,
for I have written them at least half a dozen times, both from Moorish
and Negro inhabitants, and my spelling agreed with that of another
person present. They are
_Imhammed’s._
One Leskar Lakkah.
Two Ahndee Endee.
Three Yaskar Nieskoo.
Four Deegah Dekoo.
Five Oöogoo Okoo.
Six Araskoo Araskoo.
Seven Tooloor Naskoo.
Eight Woskoo Tallóre.
Nine Likkar L’ilkar.
Ten Meeägoo Meikoo.
Ben Ali said the language of the common people of Bornoo had a strong
resemblance to that of the neighbouring Negroes. Mr. Lucas writes that
no less than 30 languages are spoken in these dominions. The following
are the numerals of Maïha, one month to the north-eastward, subject to
Bornoo, and the King’s name Smaï Doonama.
One Lagen.
Two Indë.
Three Eäska.
Four Daäger.
Five Ohoo.
Six Araska.
Seven Tooloor.
Eight Weska.
Nine Likar.
Ten Inagoon.
The Negroes called Kanem, Kandem; were well acquainted with Doomboo, and
spoke much of the kingdom of Asben.
We will now return to Cape Coast Castle, and seek the best descriptive
authorities, in aid of the observations which have been made by the
Commissioners and others, for the maritime geography from the river
Assinee to Lagos.
The latitude and longitude of Cape Coast (called by the natives Igwa,
and in the Affettoo district) according to Messrs. Ludlam and Dawes, the
Government Commissioners who surveyed the coast in 1810, is 5° 6′ N. and
1° 51′ W. Elmina, the native name of which is Addĭna, is about seven
miles to windward of Cape Coast. Twelve miles from Elmina is Commenda,
an English fort, the town is called by the natives Akatayki, the Dutch
fort was destroyed in the American war. Nine miles thence is Chama, or
Assĕma, at the mouth of the Boosempra. Six hours pull up the river, is
an island, where Attobra, one of the Warsaw caboceers, who supplies the
Dutch with canoes, is building a large house to retire to; four hours
above which is his croom. Colonel Starrenberg was pulled three days up
the river in a canoe; his progress was much impeded by rocks, and at
length arrested by a large cataract, which, being considered a powerful
fetish by the natives, the canoe-men dared not to approach. Nine miles
from Chama, where the Dutch have a fort called Sebastian, is Succondee,
the first town in the Ahanta country. The English fort was destroyed by
the French in the American war, but there is a settlement house. The
Dutch fort is called Orange. Four miles from Succondee is Taccorary, and
a Dutch fort. Nine miles beyond is Boutrie where the Dutch have a fort,
formerly belonging to the Brandenburgh Company. Three miles from Boutrie
is Dix-Cove, or Nfooma, and in the interval Boossooä, the capital of
Ahanta, which is divided into three districts, Amanfoo, Adoom, and Poho.
The first is about one journey (through Geämma) behind Boossooa, and one
from the river Ancobra, the caboceer is of the next consequence to the
King, whose power and means are extremely limited. The two latter
districts are not more than half a journey behind Taccorary. The small
river running into the sea at Boutrie, rises in the Adoom district,
which is said to abound in gold, but the pits have not been worked for
many years, from their fear of the Warsaws. Amanfee also abounds in very
fine gold, which is generally found in quartz, and is ground upon stones
arranged under large sheds for the purpose. In a respectable periodical
publication of the last year, I observe, the King of Ashantee called
King of Ahanta, Inta, or Ashantee; this is one of the many proofs of the
indiscriminate ideas of that monarch before the Mission. Eighteen miles
from Dix-Cove passing Achooma and Accoda, (where the Dutch have a fort,
and which is close to Cape Three Points) are the ruins of Hollandia,
formerly belonging to the Brandenburgh Company, and called Fort Royal
Fredericksburg. Sixteen miles farther is Axim, where the Dutch fort
Anthony, their Vice Presidency, is situated. The people of Axim speak a
dialect of the Ahanta. About two miles westward is the mouth of the
Ancobra, so called by the Portuguese from its windings, the native name
is Seënna. Col. Starrenberg, who went up the river as far as the ruins
of Elisa Carthago, the extreme navigable point, for any but a very small
canoe, says, he cannot form any accurate idea of the distance, but
supposes it was about 20 Dutch miles and the course N.E. Meredith says
50 English: he was very careless and incorrect in writing, “the French
built a fort on the right bank of this river, and at about 50 miles from
its mouth; where they had a great gold trade, that soon excited the
jealousy of the Dutch, who expelled them. The Dutch however did not long
enjoy this acquisition, for the chief got embroiled with the natives,
and betook himself to the desperate remedy of blowing up the fort.”
Elisa Carthago was built by the Dutch governor Ruighaven, who died, as
appears by his tomb stone at Elmina, before 1700. The French never had
any but a small factory, almost at the mouth of the river, and the Dutch
officer in charge of Elisa Carthago had enjoyed a good trade many years
before the cupidity of the natives reduced him to the act of despair,
related by Bosman, and still recorded by the natives, who narrated it to
Col. Starrenberg. The following is from the Latin translation of Dr.
Reynhaut: “The chief of Elisa Carthago being at variance with the
natives, who invested the fort, and finding he could not resist them any
longer” (for as the story goes, he had been reduced to fire pieces of
rock gold from the want of bullets) “feigned to treat with them, and
invited them for that purpose into the hall of the fort, under which he
had placed several barrels of gunpowder, and a small boy with a match,
ordering him to apply it directly he stamped his foot on the floor of
the hall above. This he did, after reproaching the natives with their
cupidity, and they were all blown up together. One of the servants of
the fort had just before contrived to effect his escape with most of the
papers.” In navigating from the mouth of the Ancobra or Seënna to Elisa
Carthago, the following towns, on the banks, are passed, Boasso, Tarbo,
Marmeresse, Ejujan, Tetchbrouw, Gura, Barnesoe, Uromanio, Afamkan, and
Aduwa. Gura is a small state, the people of which speak the same
language as those of Axim. From Aduwa there are three grand roads, one
to the Aowin country, one to the Dankara, and one to Asankarie, a
considerable town in Warsaw. From Aduwa to Dankara numerous small crooms
are passed through, and the first large one of the latter country is
Kenkoomabaraso, only three journies from Coomassie. The people of
Dankara come to Axim to trade. From Aduwa to Aowin the first
considerable town is Taqua. The Warsaw country is governed by four
caboceers, independent of each other, of whose relation and power, the
best idea I can give, is by comparing it with that of the tyrants Geron
and Theron, who ruled at the same time in Sicily. Intiffa, the richest
caboceer, and whose power extends the farthest, resides at Abbradie, one
short journey from Elmina. Cudjo Miensa (Miensa is the numeral three) is
his principal counsellor, and will succeed him. Nerbehin was formerly
the residence of Quashee Jacon, another independent caboceer, but of
Intiffa’s family; he was driven from thence by Esson Cudjo, who now
rules there: he fled to Samcow (situated about one day’s journey on the
frontier of Warsaw, behind Succondee) of which Musoe, a slave of his,
has raised himself to be the caboceer, and now protects his master until
Esson Cudjoe’s death. Attobra, another independent caboceer, lives at
Dabroādie, on the Boosempra. The greatest breadth of the Warsaw country
is supposed to be 60 B. miles, and the greatest length 100 or 120. About
28 miles from the Ancobra, begins the kingdom of Amanaheä, in which the
English fort Apollonia is situated: it extends about 100 miles along the
coast, but not more than 20 in-land. The various numerals of the coast
will be submitted in an essay on the Fantee language.
Barely four miles eastward of Cape Coast is Moree, and the Dutch fort
Nassau. Six miles from Moree is Annamaboe, the most complete
fortification in the country; five miles thence Cormantine, the first
fort possessed by the English, and built by them about the middle of the
seventeenth century. It was taken afterwards by the Dutch, and being
stormed, was almost destroyed by the Ashantee army, before it attacked
Annamaboe: the position is very commanding. Tantumquerry, a small
English fort, is about 18 miles from Cormantine, (crossing the small
river Amissa, an hour’s walk in-land from which is Mankasim, the capital
of the Braffoe district of Fantee) the natives call the town Tuam. Eight
miles from Tantum is the town of Apam, where is a Dutch fort and a small
river. Eight miles from Apam is Simpah or Winnebah. The people of Simpah
are Fantees, but their language is called Affoottoo. They are in the
district of Agoona. About nine miles from Simpah is the Dutch fort
Berracoe, the natives call the town Seniah. Attah of Akim laid a
contribution on this fort in March 1811. About 27 miles from Berracoe is
Accra, or Inkran, once subject to Aquamboo, which people, according to
Isert, formerly drove them to Popo. Meredith fully describes Accra and
the environs, but he does not mention that according to the natives the
Portuguese settled here first, (Isert writes in 1452) and exercising the
greatest cruelties and enormities, were extirpated by the Accras (their
town was then situated a little behind the present), who executed the
governor and his countrymen, on a spot whence they still take the earth
to rub a new born child, in commemoration of the event. Accra, according
to the observations of the Commissioners, is in 5° 20′ N. and 10′ W. Mr.
Meredith, after quoting this observation, placed it in his outline of
the coast in 58′ E. Between two and three miles from the English fort,
is Christiansburg Castle, the Danish head-quarters.
We will follow[63] Isert in his route from Accra to the Volta, as he
travelled it several times. “Two miles from Christiansburg is Labbodee,
where there was formerly a fort: this is the residence of the grand
fetish, and the Bishop. Two miles to Pessin, two to Temmen, where the
Dutch had a small fort, abandoned in 1781, two (leaving Nimboe a little
in the bush) to Ponee, a deserted Dutch fort, now a Dutch factory; two
miles thence (crossing a brakke streek or low land, up to the shoulders
in the rains, and 300 fathoms broad, sometimes called Ponee river) are
great and small Pram Pram, where the English have a small fort or
fortified factory. Two long miles thence is Friedensbourg fort at Ningo,
the people of which speak a different language called Adampee, (the name
given to their country,) a mixture of Ashantee, Kerrapee, and Accra; it
is a republic.” Behind Adampee is the Crobo mountain, the people of
which, though but a few hundreds, have hitherto baffled the Ashantees,
by leaving their croom at the bottom of the mountain, which is of great
height, rugged, accessible but by one narrow path, and with springs of
water on the top, whence they roll down upon their enemies, the large
stones and fragments of rock which abound. “From Adampee I went in one
day to Addah, 12 miles. Two and a half from Ningo is a croom called Laï,
the inhabitants of which have removed, some to Addah, some to Ningo: the
English had a factory here, long gone to ruin. One mile west of the
Volta, there was formerly a croom called Foutchi.” Reckoning four
English miles to one Danish or Dutch, Addah would be 96 miles from
Christiansburg, but Meredith makes it but 67, therefore we will take the
medium and call it 87. From the Volta to Cape St. Paul’s is five leagues
by sea, according to Dalzel, and 15 miles by land, according to Norris’s
map of Dahomey and its environs. Quitta, about 12 miles from it
(according to Norris) by the observation made in H.M.S. Argo in 1802, is
in 5° 45′ N. and 1° 29′ 30″ E. by chronometer. Accra lies, according to
the Commissioners, in 10′ W. Taking the medium between Isert and
Meredith, Christiansburg Castle, about three miles eastward of the
English fort, is 87 from Addah, but as that place is six miles from the
mouth of the Volta, we will call it 81: allowing one mile for the
breadth of the river and 18 miles for the difference of longitude
between it and Quitta, (according to Norris,) the distance from English
Accra to Quitta will be 103 B. miles, which being equal to 89
geographical miles, place Quitta in 1° 19′ E. instead of 1° 29′ 30″ as
by the observation of the Argo, and that supposing the whole distance to
be made good horizontally, which is impossible. Wherefore I should think
Isert, who had travelled it, was more likely to be correct in making the
distance from Christiansburg to Addah 96 miles, than Meredith in calling
it 67.
Norris’s observation, placing Cape St. Paul’s in 5° 52′ N., I conceive
to be incorrect, as that of the Argo must be preferred, which places
Quitta in 5° 42′ N., instead of 6° 2′ N., as in Norris’s map. This
should not have escaped Mr. Dalzel’s notice in the “New Sailing
Directions,” where both observations are cited in the same page, without
any remark on the inconsistency, for Quitta and not St. Paul’s, is thus
made the Cape or western limit of the Bight, the eastern side of which
is called the Bight of Benin, I regret, amongst other disadvantages,
that of not having the opportunity to consult the chart of Mr. Demayne
(the master of H.M.S. Amelia) which is said to be more accurate than any
other.[64]
Quitta is included in an independent state of Kerrapay, called Agwoona,
which extends thence along the coast to the Volta; the towns from that
river to Quitta are Attoko, Terrobee, Footee, Agwoona, Whiëe, and
Tegbay. Agwoona lays half a mile from the shore, and about 15 miles from
the Volta. The inhabitants of all the other towns are obliged by the law
to bury their dead in Agwoona, the capital; the caboceer of which is
supreme over the others, but not absolute. Between Quitta and Popo, lay
the Kerrapay towns Egbiffeemee, to which several of the Quittas have
retired, Edjenowah, Oöogloobooë, and Afflou or Afflahoo, a little way
from the beach. These towns are governed by caboceers, independent of
each other, as well as of Agwoona; and in the last a mixture of Adampë
and Kerrapay is spoken, accounted for by the emigration of a large body
of the former people. Another independent state of Kerrapay is
Tettaytokoo, 2 journies behind Popo; the King is said to be despotic,
and the capital composed of circular houses. There is also another
smaller interior state, governed by a caboceer called Quaminagah. Tadoo,
however, is allowed to be the largest kingdom of Kerrapay, 6 journies
behind Popo, (which the Fantees call Inshan, but the natives Taun or
Taum) described as a large town; and the Accra language is spoken there
as well as the Kerrapay, in consequence of the temporary emigration of
the former people in 1680. The Kerrapay numerals are
One Eddee.
Two Effee.
Three Eltong.
Four Ennay.
Five Altong.
Six Adday.
Seven Adrinnee.
Eight Ennee.
Nine Indee.
Ten Owoo.
The Negroes of this country are of a much more daring and desperate
character than their neighbours, and were always the most severely
treated in the slave ships. Mr. Meredith, who writes it Crepee, placed
it west of the Volta.
Whydah, according to an observation of the Argo, is 6° 14′ N. 2° 31′ E.
I do not recollect Dalzel to have mentioned that Anotto is produced in
the neighbourhood of Whydah. I am not certain whether it is by the Bixa
orellana; but the shrub at Whydah may be classed under Polyandria
Monogynia. Lambe made it 200 miles from Whydah beach to Abomey; Norris
112, Dalzel 96. By Mr. Norris’s own account of his journey, not more
than 20 hours were occupied in travelling, which at 4 miles an hour, the
greatest pace which I think the hammock men can average, would make the
distance 80 miles. An officer in this service went to Dahomey, without
hurrying, in 3 days; and considers a dispatch would reach it in 2: he
thinks it can scarcely be 70 miles; but calling it 80 as above, and
supposing 54, two thirds, to be the horizontal distance made good, equal
to almost 47 G. miles, Abomey would lay in 7° 12′ N. Yet Mr. Dalzel
writes it lays in about 7° 59′ N.: Whydah being in about 6° 25′ in the
map affixed to his history; this requires 108 B. miles to be made good
on the horizontal distance, whereas he calls that of the whole journey
but 96, and Mr. Norris, who drew the map, 112. The public were certainly
indebted to Mr. Dalzel for the History of Dahomey, but it was his duty,
as an intelligent and considerate man, to correct such an error as this;
and if the author of the preface had reflected, he would not have
written, “The map, is that of Mr. Norris, with a few additions, which
for the places on the coast, and the position of Abomey, is near enough
to the truth.” Mr. Dalzel should have corrected a greater error in this
map, the course of the Lagos river, for altering which I shall presently
quote his own authority in addition to others.
An officer in this service, who resided at Lagos three years, and is the
only European resident who has survived of those who have made the
attempt, enables me to correct the following errors. The Pelican bank is
much smaller than it appears on the charts; the Doo island (which lays
N.W. and not N. of Lagos town) where the natives go to make fetish, is
not more than one mile in circumference; and there is no river of that
name. The beach over which the Portuguese and French (who never cross
the bar, where there are 3 fathoms water) transport their goods to the
canoes, is not more than 100 yards wide, instead of one mile. In
Norris’s map prefixed to Dalzel’s History, the Lagos river is made to
cross the path to Dahomey near Torë. In the Sailing Directions for the
Coast of Africa, to which Mr. Dalzel was the chief contributor, and who
revised the work, we find, “River Lagos is the mouth not only of the
river of that name, which runs to the _eastward from Ardrah_,” &c. and
the river Mr. Norris crossed near Torë, which he calls pretty deep and
rapid, but with a bridge over it, is by the account of other gentlemen,
officers in this service, who have been to Dahomey, no more than a
marsh. The gentleman before mentioned to have resided three years in
Lagos, informs me the grand branch of that river flows from the
northward of the island, where the pretended river Doo is placed, he
found it so wide on entering it, that being in the middle, where there
are 10 fathoms water, he could scarcely see the land on either side. The
current is impetuous, and floating islands, and large masses of alluvial
matter come down with such force, in the rainy season, as to trip
vessels from their anchors in the English road. De Lisle makes the Lagos
river flowing from the N., and the French are allowed to be much better
acquainted with this part of the coast. That called the West river in
Norris’s map, is only a creek; and what he calls the Lagos river, and
draws running close to Bădaggry, Ardrah, and passing Torë, is the
Western river. Bădaggry is not more than 5 or 7 miles from the beach,
instead of 15, and the tide only ebbs and flows so far. Ardrah is from
25 to 30 miles from the beach, instead of 18; and the river is crossed
at about one-third of the distance from the sea: this is what we call
Porto Novo, for there is not more than beachmen’s huts on the shore
opposite the anchorage. The natives call Ardrah Aratakassee, or
Allatakassee, and the country Essaäm, or the great. The river continues
its course not more than 100 yards from the sea, at Whydah, and proceeds
equally close (indeed frequently the ridge between them is covered with
water) until passing Quitta, it falls into the Volta near the mouth.
The above mentioned gentleman proves the informant of Adams’s editor
incorrect, in stating that the Houssa traders were constantly to be met
with at Lagos, previous to the abolition of the slave trade, for it has
always been the policy of Kosie, a kingdom on the eastern bank of the
river, and about 60 miles inland from the mouth, to prevent all
intercourse between the traders of the interior, and those of Lagos, to
secure to themselves the exorbitant profits they made as the brokers or
medium. The Europeans who traded at Lagos, once meditated forcing a
passage up the river in armed boats, and a vessel of 18 guns was got
over the bar, and anchored close to Lagos town; but the project was
abandoned as too perilous. Sometime afterwards the King of Kosie desired
a European might visit him, to gratify his curiosity, and that of his
people; but no one being willing, a mulatto, named Peter Brown, was
dressed up and sent. This man, being now at Cape Coast, I have
questioned. Several armed men were sent to conduct him, and relays of
canoe men sufficient to continue brisk pulling; which they did from the
evening till the next day, before he left the river to proceed by land;
it was still very wide, and more than 4 fathoms deep; considerably, for
aught he knew, for the bamboo poles of that length, with which the
natives push the canoe forward, when they get close enough to the banks
to do so, would not touch the bottom in the middle. Relays of hammock
men then carried him at a brisk pace until evening, when he reached
Kosie, which he described as a town of great extent, and the buildings
to resemble those in the drawings of Coomassie. The King gave orders
that the crowd should not intrude themselves into his house, treated him
very handsomely, and dismissed him after three days. He only heard the
people of Kosie speak of two great nations, the Hios, and the Awissees.
The gentleman before mentioned has an impression, from all the enquiries
he recollects to have made, of the slaves of the interior, that the
merchants convey them by water the greater part of the way; and their
reports were strengthened by his having an opportunity of seeing canoes
brought from Kosie to Lagos, and purchased from the slave merchants of
the interior. They were very superior in size and convenience to those
of the coast, were covered in, with a distinct apartment for the trader
and his wives, and would hold a hundred slaves. I never heard any slaves
speak of being brought any part of the way by water, but I have not seen
any who were brought to Kosie or Lagos.
The Karhala is the only large river likely to communicate with, or to
form that of Lagos; possibly the Karhala might run to the large lake in
Hio, which Snelgrave says (from the information of the Portuguese
mulatto he found at Abomey) “is the fountain of several large rivers
which empty themselves into the Bay of Guinea.” The Lagos river may flow
from this lake, but this is mere conjecture. The gentleman to whom I am
indebted, places the Mahees north of Dahomey, instead of north-west as
in Norris’s map, which is allowed to be far from discriminate in the
interior parts, in the preface to Dalzel’s History, and this is also
more probable, because about nine years ago, the King of Hio entirely
conquered the Mahees, and upwards of 20,000 of them were brought for
sale to Lagos.
The Joös, inconsiderately reported to Adams’s editor as being, with the
Anagoos and Mahees, the principal nations on the journey to the Niger,
and nearer to the coast, avoiding Dahomey, are probably the Jaboos, who
are about 40 miles westward of Kosie, and not behind Cradoo, as in
Norris’s map. They are celebrated for the cloths of their name, of which
the Portuguese have shipped such large quantities. The Anagoos, or
Nagoos, are the north westward neighbours of Dahomey.
The extent of Fantee is corrected from the conjectural enlargement of it
by Mr. Meredith, and, with that of Ashantee, Akim, Assin, Warsaw,
Ahanta, &c. &c. is sufficiently distinct in the present map. A more
enlarged, and particular map of Fantee, &c. would not be interesting to
the public, but as it might be desirable to geographers, I shall keep it
in view as a duty, and, at some future time, endeavor to add to the
observations of latitude and longitude which have been already made on
the coast.
I may not conclude without acknowledging the guidance, and assistance,
which Major Rennell’s previous investigations have afforded me; without
impressing, that had not some sketches of the interior been collected by
the industry of the emissaries of the African Association, and
afterwards connected and formed into a general outline, blended with the
feeble lights of the ancients, my enquiries would neither have been
excited or directed; and this present small contribution to our slender
knowledge would have perished an embryo. When I reflect on the creative
researches of the genius of D’Anville, and the acumen and erudition of
Major Rennell, it is my greatest anxiety to make my deference in
investigation, as manifest as the public duty which exacted the
involuntary presumption; and I cannot conclude more appropriately, than
by addressing the latter in the expressive lines of Virgil:
“Nec calamis solum æquiparas sed voce magistrum
Fortunate—tu nunc eris alter ab illo.
Nos tamen hæc quocunque modo tibi nostra vicissim
Dicemus.”
[Footnote 15: “On the west of Aquamboe lies the powerful state of Akim,
sometimes denominated Akam, Achem, and Accany, which occupies almost all
the interior of the Gold Coast, and is supposed by the natives to extend
to Barbary. The Accanese are represented as carrying on an extensive
commerce with the interior kingdoms of Africa, particularly Tonouwah,
Gago, and Meczara, by which Mourzouk the capital of Fezzan seems to be
intended.”]
[Footnote 16: “Reize van Koppenhagen naar Guinea, &c. Door den Heer
Isert. Amsteldam, 1797. Naar het Hoog Duitsch.”]
[Footnote 17: This induced me to think that In-ta and Ta-pah, as well as
Assiantee might mean the same place, as we find of Mahee, Yahon,
&c.—Dalzel.]
[Footnote 18: “In the province of St. Jago, in Chili, there is a plant
of this class and order (Didynamiæ gymnosperma) supposed to be a species
of wild basil (Ocimum salinum), resembling the common basil so much as
to be hardly distinguished from it, except that the flower stem is round
and jointed, and its scent and taste not like the basil, but rather like
the sea flag, or some marine plant. It is an annual, shooting forth in
the spring, and continuing till the commencement of winter: every
morning it is covered with hard and shining saline globules, resembling
dew, which the countrymen shake off the leaves to serve them as common
salt, and in some respects is thought to be of a superior quality. Every
plant produces daily about half an ounce of this salt; but Molina, a
scientific naturalist, to whom we are indebted for this information,
says, that it is extremely difficult to account for this phenomenon, as
the situation where he found these plants was in the most fertile part
of the kingdom, and at a distance from the sea of more than seventy
miles. When we see some plants secrete flint, separate and distinct from
their fibres, as well as combined with their organic structure; and when
we also know that plants secrete alkali, in every situation, I cannot
perceive why Molina should consider the contiguity of the sea to be
essential to the production of a neutral salt in the Ocimum salinum.”
Linnæan System, London, 1816, vol. ii. p. 303.
Riley, whose narrative has recently appeared, saw in the desert, “A
dwarf thorn bush from two to five feet high with succulent leaves
strongly impregnated with salt.”]
[Footnote 19: In the Dutch copies of the old Portuguese charts, Xabunda
(perhaps Banda) is placed as the capital of Ashantee, and two or three
large Portuguese towns, one St. Lawrence, with several convents and
crosses between it and the Coast.]
[Footnote 20: Gago oppidum amplissimum nullis quoque cingitur muris,
distat a Tumbuto meridiem versus quadringentes fere passuum millibus,
inclinatusque fere ad Euroaustrum. Leo Af.]
[Footnote 21: “To what degree the natives of Silla would have
contradicted each other in their accounts of Tombuctoo, Park’s short
stay there could not have allowed him time to ascertain, even if his
knowledge of their language had enabled him to understand their accounts
as well as he did those of the slatees on the Gambia.
“Several instances of the contradictory testimony of the Negroes occur
in Park’s travels, Jennië, for instance, is stated in his first Mission
to be situated on the Niger, but on his second journey he renounces that
opinion, on the apparently good authority of an old Somonie (canoe man)
who had been seven times at Tombuctoo.” Adams’s Editor.]
[Footnote 22: Mr. Hutchison writes, that from Inta to Jennë is said to
be 41 journies. This Gentleman, the Resident at Coomassie, merely
accompanied the Mission to act in that capacity in case the object could
be accomplished, and was not instructed to report: the officer
conducting the Mission being responsible to the extent of his industry,
and the opportunities, for the various desiderata, excepting the
Botanical and Medical, which were expected from the Surgeon, Mr. Tedlie.
Mr. Hutchison’s time was much employed in making duplicates and copies
of the frequent and voluminous dispatches to head quarters. The Moors
disliking even a second European to be present at their geographical
communications, Mr. Hutchison, through his obliging disposition, which
accommodated itself to every thing auxiliary to the pursuits of the
Mission, rendered me a great service, and quieted the uneasiness of the
Moors by keeping watch, and diverting the various Ashantee visitors who
would have intruded, with great patience and address. There was no time
even for a communication of the data I had collected before the Mission
left Coomassie, for we may be said to have lived in public the latter
part of the four months, and Mr. Hutchison’s genius inclining more to
the cultivation of the Ashantee and Arabic languages, which I had no
doubt would yield to his great industry, I did not intrude less
congenial pursuits on his attention, (the desiderata having been amply
realized,) but merely requested he would let me know what any
intelligent Moor, arriving after my departure, might say of the
Interior, and, if possible, procure a chart from him, especially if he
was not a native of Houssa or Bornoo, which two of the Moors who had
drawn for me were. After I had finished my Geographical Report, Mr.
Hutchison sent, with some other interesting particulars, added as notes
with his initials, a chart drawn by a Jennë Moor just arrived,
confirming all I had collected in the most satisfactory manner. The
names of the countries from the source of the Niger to Egypt were
written in Arabic, with Mr. Hutchison’s expression of the pronunciation
in English opposite. I particularly recollect that his ear differed
somewhat from mine, which accounts for the trifling differences in our
spelling. I shewed Mr. Hutchison my charts as curiosities, but he took
no minutes of the names, uninteresting from his never having had an
opportunity of reading Major Rennell’s Dissertations, which would alone
make them so to any one. He gives a better proof of this, than my own
impression, by the following extract from his letter to me, accompanying
the chart: “The Bornoo you used to talk about, you will find the same as
the lake Chaudi, or Al Bahare Noohoo, or else you know a country I I do
not recollect hearing of;” but, in the postscript, he writes, “On
looking over my memoranda, I find Bornoo is the principal monarchy the
Arabs alone stand in awe of, and one of the four kingdoms best known on
the Quolla.” Mr. Hutchison _unconsciously_ confirming what I had
learned, is even more satisfactory than if I had left him any basis for
his enquiries; indeed, his own object, the acquirement of the language,
was too important to be interrupted unnecessarily. Before I attach any
quotation from this Gentleman’s letters, I must acknowledge the
assistance I had previously derived from his spirited zeal as an
officer, as well as that which has since resulted from his interest in
intellectual pursuits.]
[Footnote 23: The Moors particularly mentioned buying their writing
paper there. One told me that the Joliba ran to a river called Hotaiba
after it passed Yahoodee, which river ran towards Toonis. Several talked
of vessels coming to Yahoodee, navigated by white men, but whence I
could not learn, and Brahima had never visited it, though such reports
were familiar to him.]
[Footnote 24: The rivers Arauca and Capanaparo in Cumana form
bifurcations similar to those of the Niger. The Arauca divides itself
into two rivers, the northern one, the Arauquito, runs through the lake
Cabullarito into the Orinoco, and the southern retaining the name of
Arauca, also flows to the Orinoco. The Capanaparo falls into the Orinoco
in two streams, the northern retaining the original name, and the
southern acquiring that of Mina. See Humboldt’s map of the eastern part
of the province of Verina.]
[Footnote 25: See note, p. 189.]
[Footnote 26: “No one who compares the maps of De Lisle and D’Anville
with the materials then published, can doubt the excellent means of
information with which they must have been supplied both by government,
and by private individuals.” Murray.
We find a remarkable instance of De Lisle’s accuracy in Major Rennell’s
construction of the geography of Mr. Horneman’s expedition. “Mr.
Horneman was informed that there are 101 inhabited places in Fezzan.” It
is remarkable that this is precisely the number stated in M. Delisle’s
map of Africa, drawn in 1707; and, according to Mr. Beaufoy’s informant,
there are nearly 100.
I have since found an older authority for the name _Gambaroo_, and which
also shews that the name _Quolla_ and its connection with the Gambaroo,
have not been wholly unknown hitherto. It is in the L’Afrique de Marmol,
livre viii. chap. 3. “C’est une chose estrange que ce fleuve venant de
si loin, car Ptolomée le fait venir du lac _Quélonide_, et de celui de
Nuba, il n’entraine pas tant d’eaux par ce costé-là, et la marée ne
monte pas si avant, _que par l’autre bras que l’on appelle Gamber_.” One
may almost fancy Quolla and Quellonide to have been derived from the
Chalonides of Ptolemy.]
[Footnote 27: “The fact of a large lake like the Dibbie, discharging its
waters by two streams flowing from distant parts of the lake, and re-
uniting after a separate course of a hundred miles in length, has always
appeared to us extremely apocryphal, at least we believe that the
geography of the world does not afford a parallel case.” Adams’s
Editor.]
[Footnote 28: “According to these statements of the Moorish traders,
Adams would seem to have mistaken the course of the stream at Tombuctoo.
In fact, I do not recollect that he told me at Mogadore that it flowed
in a westerly direction: but, I think, I am correct in saying, that he
discovered some uncertainty in speaking upon this subject, (and almost
upon this subject alone) observing, in answer to my inquiries, that he
had not taken very particular notice, and that the river was steady,
without any appearance of a strong current.” Dupuis on Adams.
Adams’s name, La-mar-Zarah (for of course he did not attach _La_ mar to
indicate water, but pronounced La-mar-Zarah, as an integral name) seems
accounted for by his confounding or connecting the Arabic name of the
river, _Lahamar_, with the Negro name _Yça_ (for we find these names in
Marmol, tom. 3. liv. 8.) making _Lahamar-yça_, La-mar-Zarah.]
[Footnote 29: Les Sénégurs le nomment Sénédec, les Jalofes Dengueh, les
Turcorons qui sont plus au-dedans du pays Maye, les Saragoles qui sont
plus haut Colle, et en un contrée plus vers l’orient Zimbale: au royaume
de Tombut on le nomme Yça. Marmol, tom. 3, livre 8. The name Zimbale
must be derived from Jimballa, by which country the river passes; it
occurs in the route from Shégo to Timbuctoo. P. 194.]
[Footnote 30: Kulla, in the Mallowa, if not in the Kassina language,
means _child_; perhaps, allegory being the character of African
language, the southern river may be called Quolla or Kulla, from being a
_branch_ only of the great river which forms it and the Gambaroo.]
[Footnote 31: See the account of the large interior river known at
Gaboon, under the name of _Wole_ or _Wolela_.]
[Footnote 32: “There is one thing that disagrees with Mr. Park’s
account, they call the Niger Quolla at Jennë, Sansanding, &c. &c. and
describe the Jolliba as falling into the Quolla east of Timbuctoo.” W.
H.
The Moors invariably reported to me that it ran from it. Mr. H. might
perhaps have misunderstood the Jennë Moor, whose single authority cannot
be opposed to the concurrence of several.]
[Footnote 33: Illorum verò qui per interiorem Æthiopiam fluant, quique
fontes et ostia in continente habent maximi sunt Gir et Nigir. (Lib. 2.
E. 1. De maximis _fluminibus_.)]
[Footnote 34: The Jennë Moor does not appear to have been so
particularly acquainted with the source of the Niger. He has drawn two
hills, from one of which springs a large river he could not name,
running westward, the other is the source of the Quolla, and Mr.
Hutchison has written its name Bieteerilmiloo. Between this source and
Mala, the King of which he describes as a great monarch, he mentions no
towns or kingdoms. This Mala is the Malay of the Moorish charts I
procured, between the source and which five places or countries were
written. Mr. Hutchison writes the course thus, without time or distance,
Mala, Bambarra, Shego, Sansanding, Jena, Mashina, Dahleä (a small croom
on the lake Dibber,) Kabarra: he adds, cannibals are close to the
Joliba, and 30 journies from Timbuctoo, they eat their prisoners: the
dead of their own people are put in the Joliba, in wooden coffins.]
[Footnote 35: The following sentence in the description of Leo, conveys
an idea of the decline or decay of the city. “Cujus domus omnes in
tuguriola cretacea stramineis tectis _sunt mutatæ_.” Yet immediately
after we receive the contrary impression on reading “Visitur tamen
elegantissimum quoddam templum cujus murus ex lapidibus atque calce vivo
est fabricatus: deinde et palacium quoddam regium quodam Granato viro
artificissimo conditum. Frequentissimæ hic sunt artificum mercatorum
præcipuè autem telæ atque gossypii textorum officinæ; huc mercatores
Barbari pannum ex Europa adferunt.” In the Description de l’Afrique en
Flamand, published about a century and a half afterwards, the author
seems to be aware of the advanced decline or decay of Timbuctoo. “Les
maisons étoient autrefois fort sumptueuses, mais elles ne sont
maintenant que de bois enduites de terre grasse et couvertes de
paille.”]
[Footnote 36: “All the country from where the Joliba discharges itself
into the Quolla is subject to the Sultan Malisimiel. What makes the
Sultan of Timbuctoo so much talked of, is his being near the water side;
but his master, the Sultan of Malisimiel considers him merely as a
deputy or governor. The four greatest monarchs known on the banks of the
Quolla, are Baharnoo, Santambool, Malisimiel, and Malla.” W. H. Malla is
Mallowa.]
[Footnote 37: “The Chaymas substitute _r_ for _l_, a substitution that
arises from a defect of pronunciation, common in every zone. The
substitution of _r_ for _l_ characterizes, for example, the Bashmouric
dialect of the Coptic language. It is thus that the Caribbees of the
Oroonoko have been transformed into Galibi, in French Guiana, by
confounding _r_ with _l_, and softening the _c_. The Tamanach has made
choraro (solalo) of the Spanish word soldado.” Humboldt’s personal
narrative, book iii. chap. 9.]
[Footnote 38: The position of Mellè is further confirmed in Dapper “Le
Roi de _Tombut_ prend le nom d’Empereur de _Melli_.” This title seems to
have been transferred to the King of Houssa from the decline of
Timbuctoo, to which the aggrandisement of the former city is to be
attributed.]
[Footnote 39: The King residing in Houssa is the King of Malla; he has
seven tributary Kings. W. H.]
[Footnote 40: I did not hear of the Gotoijegee, Carmasse, or Gourmon of
Amadi Fatouma; it is clear that he was not very correct in names. I
never once heard Silla called Sellee, Dibbie, Sibbie, or Kabra,
Rakbarra.]
[Footnote 41: The Jennë Moor notices between Kabarra and Cabi, Gauw (a
great kingdom) Quoülla, Askeä, Zabirma. Ptolemy has a city called Geua
on the Gir.]
[Footnote 42: The Jennë Moor told Mr. Hutchison, “the Quolla was the
largest river in the world, and about 5 miles wide, having a very rocky
channel, the banks on both sides very high, and rugged: in many parts
canoes often take a day to cross, from the dangerous whirlpools, and
sudden squalls; at other places the stream runs with great rapidity. The
houses in its environs are either terraced or shingled, as thatch cannot
resist the frequent high winds.”]
[Footnote 43: The Jennë Moor has placed Gangë as an island in the Quolla
just below Bousa. This must be the Gongoo of Imhammed, and Ben Ali,
south of Cassina. Mr. Lucas writes “the width of the Niger is such, that
even at the island of Gongoo, where the ferrymen reside, the sound of
the loudest voice from the northern shore is scarcely heard.”]
[Footnote 44: The Jennë Moor traces the course from Yaoora, thus:
Boussa, Gangë, Wawa, Noofa, Quollaliffa, Atagara; the only difference
being the position of the latter place, possibly an error of mine, as
the name Atagara was not noticed in the charts I made the Moors draw,
but only in the more particular enumerations of the countries the Quolla
passed; the names of which I minuted from their utterance, and
afterwards attached their remarks as interpreted to me.]
[Footnote 45: The Jennë Moor calls this Quolla liffa. Mr. Hutchison, who
has a servant, a native of it, describes it as a very powerful kingdom,
as the Shereef Brahima described it to me, and as was the impression of
Mr. Dupuis. Mr. H. adds, on Negro and Moorish authority, “it is to the
King of Quallowliffa that the country in which Canna, Dall, and Yum Yum,
where cannibals are, is subject.” Mr. Horneman mentions Yem Yems
cannibals south of Kano 10 days; and the account is further confirmed in
my subsequent geographical sketch of the interior of Gaboon. Mr.
Horneman’s information that the Niger flowed towards the Egyptian Nile
through the land of the Heathens, which Mr. Park quoted as an argument
for the Congo hypothesis, doubtless referred to these cannibals.]
[Footnote 46: “At times the water of this lake is hot, and it boils and
bubbles with a great noise, often overflowing the surrounding country.
The bones of fish thrown up by the volcano are so numerous, that the
Arabs mix them in the swish of their houses. There are a great many
islets in the lake, which is so extensive, that they cannot see the end.
Between it and the Quolla rises a very high hill, from the top of which
is an extensive view; it is a day’s journey from the water on either
side. The Arabs eat black rice, corn, and sweet beans, called Tummer.”
W. H.]
[Footnote 47: The Jennë Moor has also placed it E. of Foor. Mr.
Hutchison writes the course, after him, from Atagara, thus:
“Maffagoodoo, Sharee, Lake Chadee, Phorr (beginning of Arabs) “Wadie.”
Mr. Horneman writes “A great part of the people of Wadey, together with
their King, are Arabs.”]
[Footnote 48: Mr. Hutchison has written it Sooänar.]
[Footnote 49: “Cairo is still called, in the figurative language of the
East, Misr, without an equal; Misr, the mistress of the world.”
Quarterly Review. Mr. Hutchison writes, that the Moors told him it was
so called after Misraim, who settled there.]
[Footnote 50: The following, in the left hand column, are the places or
countries as written by Mr. Hutchison, after the Jennë Moor, agreeing
with those the Moors reported to me.
Shuewa Shewa Abenassa.
Swiss Sooess.
Zall Zaloo.
Machazoogee Machawazoo.
Tabarbass, cultivation, volcano from
the Quolla two days, two days to the top, Tabarrabass.
Askanderee Askandaraia or Sakunderree.
The latter place is Alexandria. The Moors called the Mediterranean Sea
to me by two names, Baharlë Malee, and Sabbaha Bahoori. Mr. Hutchison
writes it Baramela or Bahermale, and adds, “Seven rivers from Africa
turn their course to it, but only two reach the shores, of which the
Nile is one. The rush of the waters of the Nile when they meet the sea,
is so great, that the waves are driven into the air with great force,
and retire like waves against a rock. The Red Sea, they say, assumes
various colours at different periods from seven streams pouring their
course into it, salt water and fresh, red, blue, yellow, &c.”]
[Footnote 51: “Half of the inhabitants of Massar are white, and half
black; they have a Fort and Governor.” W. H.]
[Footnote 52: Stambool is the Arabic pronunciation of the familiar or
vulgar name of Constantinople, the etymology of which is ιϛαμαι πολιν.]
[Footnote 53: Mr. Hutchison writes, “Wangara is the name of a region
comprehending Mosee Kong, and other neighbouring countries south of the
Niger (if not some to the north of it) but Oongooroo is the name of the
country laying between Cassina and Bornoo.)” Mr. Park has _Wangeera_ in
the route from Sego to the coast of Guinea.]
[Footnote 54: “The dress of the people of Fullan (a country to the west
of Kassina) resembles the cloth of which the plaids of the Scotch
Highlanders are made.” Ben Ali.]
[Footnote 55: Mr. Hutchison sends me this route, as given him by the
Jennë Moor, thus, (supposing me not to have heard of Yariba) “from
Goodaberry, over Lasa small water to Quolla, at Boussa; few hours walk
to Yaraba; 28 days from Dahomey:” he adds, “recollect that the King of
Dahomey is tributary to the King of Yaraba, who is the same in that
quarter, as the King of Ashantee is here.”]
[Footnote 56: The Jennë Moor gave this route thus: Wawa to Kiama, a
great kingdom, 3 days; close to the eastward a desert; 1 day
Garagroogee; 1 day Wala; 1 day Goodaberry.]
[Footnote 57: “Guber est à cent lieuës de Gago vers l’Orient, et en est
separé par un desert inhabitable à quatorze ou quinze lieuës du Niger.
Cette contrée est entre de hautes montagnes, et toute pleine de
villages; celui où le Prince tient sa Cour a quelque mille maisons.”
Dapper.]
[Footnote 58: I shall adjoin an outline of the great river in one of the
maps of Dapper’s Description de l’Afrique, traduit du Flamand, because
the book is very scarce, and I do not remember to have seen the Niger,
the Gir, or the Congo so laid down in any other.]
[Footnote 59: The removal of Cano from the banks of the Niger agreeable
with every report I received, is supported by Dapper. “A cent soixante
et dix lieuës d’Agadez et à deux cent du Niger on trouve ce royaume
(Guber), au milieu du quel est la ville de Cano fermée de murailles de
bois et de pierre, et qui a des maisons bâties de même.”]
[Footnote 60: “The Mahometans of Senaar number Bornoo amongst the four
most powerful monarchies of the world; the other three are Turkey,
Persia, and Abyssinia: the sovereign of Bornoo is more powerful than the
Emperor of Morocco.” Lucas.]
[Footnote 61: Ce royame, qu’on croit avoir été la demeure des
Garamantes, est une vaste Province au levant de Gangara, qui s’étend
vers l’Orient l’espace de cent soixante dix lieuës et est éloignée du
Niger de cinquante.]
[Footnote 62: Mr. Hutchison heard of another river near Bornoo called
Koomoodoo gaiguina: he could not hear of the Wad el Gazel.]
[Footnote 63: I observe, in a modern publication, Dr. Isert’s described
as a second visit to Africa, under the auspices of the Danish
government, encouraged by his reports to attempt colonization in
Aquapim, and that he died from anxiety and exertion. This was not the
case, it was his first and only visit, the Danes never attempted
colonization, and he embarked for the West Indies as I have before
stated. Having read the above, however, I wrote to Dr. Reynhaut, who
translated some passages from the Dutch into Latin for me, and the
following is an extract from his letter in reply. “Quod attinet Iserti
in Africam reditum, ibique ejus obitum, ficta hæc est fama. Verum est
juxta Quitam post victoriam in Augnaeos populos reportatam, Danos arcem
condidisse, cui nomen insigniverunt Prinzenstein; sed nullæ culturæ
incubuerunt, nec colonias struxerunt, nec minus falsum est umquam
Isertum in Africæ littoræ inferiora regis jussu rediisse, colonias
extruendi gratia, nam præter opus Botanicum quod Floræ Guinensis titulo
occurrit, nullum aliud de illo scriptum existit.”]
[Footnote 64: Since I have been at sea I have drawn the maritime part of
my map again, and laid down the Forts and other points according to the
observations quoted in Norrie, (4th edition, 1816,) which agree so very
nearly with those of the Commissioners in the two instances cited, that
I conclude he has been allowed to copy the whole series from their
papers, which I believe have never been published. Even in Dr. Mackay’s
valuable publication, Cape Coast Castle is laid 1° 23′ too much to the
eastward. I presume too that the observations made by H.M.S. Amelia, are
part of those quoted by Norrie, although the Argo’s observations of the
longitude of Quitta and Whydah are not confirmed. I observe a small
error which makes 1′ 28″ N. and 7′ 24″ E. the difference between
Kormantine and Annamaboe, the former is only 5 miles eastward of the
latter.]