I.

There are words which have careers as well as men, or, perhaps it may be

more happily said, as well as women. Mere words breathed on by Fancy,

and sent forth not so much to serve man's ordinary colloquial uses,

apparently, as to fascinate his mind, have their _débuts_. their season,

their vogue, and finally a period in which it is really too bad if they

have not the consolation of reflecting upon their conquests; for

conquests they certainly have. The great captivators--the Cleopatras of

the vocabulary--one easily recognizes; but besides these there is a host

of small flirts and every-day coquettes, whom one hardly suspects till

they have a little carried him away. Almost every one remembers how in

this light company he first came across the little word _ranch_. It had

in its youth distinctly the _cachet_ of the verbal flying squadron, the

"nameless something," the oenanthic whiff which flies to the head. There

are signs that its best days as a word are now over, and in

contemplating it at present one has a vision of a _passée_ brunette, in

the costume of Fifine at the Fair, solacing herself with thoughts of

early triumphs. "Would a farm have served?" she murmurs. "Would a

plantation, an orange-grove, have satisfied the desperate young man? No,

no; he must have his ranch! There was no charm could soothe his

melancholy, and wring for him the public bosom, save mine."

I made this reflection during a period of incarceration in a

sleeping-car,--a form of confinement which, like any other, throws the

prisoner considerably on his fancy; and a vision somewhat like the above

smoothed for a moment the pillow of an "upper berth," and pleased better

than the negro porter. Half a dozen of those days of too many paper

novels, of too much tobacco, of too little else, followed each other

with the sameness of so many raw oysters. Then there came a chill night

of wide moonlit vacuity passed on the prairie by the side of the driver

of a "jumper,"--a driver who slumbered, happy man!--and at peep of dawn

I found myself standing, stiff and shivering, in a certain little Texas

town. A much-soiled, white little street, a bit of greenish-yellow,

treeless plain soft in the morning mist, a rosy fringe at the edge of

the sky,--it was of these things, together with a disagreeable sense of

imponderability of body from the cold and sleepless ride, that I was

vaguely aware as the jumper--rigorous vehicle!--disappeared round a

corner. Frontier towns are not lovely, and the death-like peace which

seemed properly to accompany the chalky pallor of the buildings was

somewhat uncanny; but it proved to be only what sleep can do for a

village with railroad influences one hundred miles away. We entered

boldly the adobe before which we had been dropped, and found a genial

landlord in an impromptu costume justified by the hour, an inn-album of

quite cosmopolitan range of inscriptions, and a breakfast for which a

week of traveller's fare had amply fortified the spirit.

The village was the chief, indeed, wellnigh the only, town of a great

west-by-north county, in which Rhode Island would be lost and

Massachusetts find elbow-room. It was an irregular little bunch of

buildings gathered along an arterial street which, after a run of three

hundred yards or so, broke to pieces and scattered its dispersed

shanties about a high, barren plain. It stood on the steep bank of a

little river, and over against it, on a naked hill, was Uncle Sam's

military village,--a fort by courtesy,--where, when not sleeping, black

soldiers and white strolled about in the warm sun. When the little

street was fairly awake, it presented a very lively appearance and had

the air of doing a great deal of business. The wan houses emitted their

occupants, and numerous pink-faced riders, in leathers and broad hats,

poured in from all sides, and, tying their heavily-accoutred ponies,

disappeared into the shops with a sort of bow-legged waddle, like

sailors ashore. Off his horse, the cow-boy is frankly awkward. Purchases

made, they departed with a rush, filling the glare with dust. Officers

from the post, with cork helmets and white trousers, came across the

river and stood in the broad shadows of adobe door-ways, gaping, and

switching their legs with bamboo canes. "It's magnificent," one seemed

to hear them mutter, "but it isn't war!" Groups of Mexicans stood about,

or, selecting a white wall, leaned against it, as they are apt to do at

home, for the better relief of their swarthy faces and brilliant scarfs;

and slowly moving down the street, stopping occasionally to speak to the

various clusters of men, there went the beneficent if somewhat untidy

figure of the Catholic father, in whose company we had breakfasted, a

fat, jolly, anecdotal inheritor of the mantle of some founder of the

Missions. The sun took absolute and merciless possession of the street.

You put your hand in your pocket for the smoked glass through which you

observed the last eclipse. Everything seemed bleached,--the white

buildings, the yellow road, the eyebrows of the cow-boys.

We did the drive of twenty miles to the ranch in a canvas-topped buggy,

drawn by a pair of devil-may-care little nags, who took us across dry

_arroyos_ and the rocky beds of running streams in a style that promised

to make sticks of the vehicle. It held good, however, and rattled out a

sort of derisive snicker at every fresh attempt to shiver it. The

country through which we passed afforded views of superb breadth and a

most interesting and delightful quality. No landscape has in the exact

sense such charm as one in which Nature manifests herself in a large and

simple way: one feels with a thrill that she is about to tell the

secret. The earth lay almost in its nakedness beneath the inane dome of

the sky. But over the large simplicity of form one was soon aware of an

exquisite play of hues. The easy undulations, as they ran off to the

unattainable horizon, were so many waves of delicate and varying color.

There were great sweeps of ochre, of gray, of fresh, light green,

pointed with black dots of live-oak, and traversed by tortuous lines of

indigo where the pecan treed creeks pursued their foiled courses, and

troops of little hills grouped themselves about,--pink, pinkish, purple,

purpling blue, white, as they faded from view like the evanescent

cherubs in the corner of an old master. The hills, however, were little

only because the stretch was so vast; it was really a broad plafond upon

which they had solemnly entered to dance a minuet with the playful

shadows of the clouds. The sky possessed everything. There was so much

of it that existence seemed to have become in a sense a celestial--or at

least an aerial--affair: the world was your balloon.

After the third creek-crossing the road ran straight as an avenue

through a broad, level reach, and we flew along gayly. The little

mesquite-trees, prim, dainty, and delicate, stood about in seeming

order, civilizing the landscape and giving it the air of an orchard; the

prairie-dog villages were thrown into a tumult of excitement by our

passage; a chaparral-cock slipped out of a bush, stared an instant,

pulled the string that lifts his tail and top-knot, and settled down for

a race directly under the horses' feet. We passed the point of a hill,

gained a slight rise, and the ranch was in sight. It must be confessed

that it was not in appearance all that the name might imply,--not the

sort of place for which one starts after having provided one's self with

a navy revolver and a low estimate of the value of human life. It was,

in fact, a very pretty and domestic scene, a little village of half a

dozen buildings and a net-work of white limestone and brush corrals.

Shortly I was supping in a neat little cottage, and endeavoring in the

usual way to be agreeable to some one in muslin. In this modern world we

change our skies, truly, but not--not our bric-à-brac. On the walls of

the pretty dining-room one beheld with rising feeling one's old friends

the Japanese fan and the discarded plate still clinging with the

touching persistence of the ivy to the oak. To be sure, there was a tall

half-breed Indian moving about with the silent agility of the warpath,

but he wore a white apron, and his hideous intention was to fill one's

wineglass. If the longitude had led me to meditate right buffalo's hump,

"washed down" with something coarse and potent enough to justify the

phrase, it was clear that I was painfully behind the stroke of the

clock. Life, good lady, takes an undignified pleasure in arranging these

petty shocks to the expectations, which we soon learn to dismiss with a

smile. The cold mutton and _ordinaire_ were excellent, and we had some

coffee and a cigarette on the piazza. The sun was setting far away

behind a hill on the other side of the creek. A soft sound came down the

valley from a remote flock of sheep. A little breeze sprang up and ran

tremulously about, shaking the tufted grass and the slim boughs of the

mesquites, and putting some question with a wistfully hopeful swish.

Plainly, one could be very much at home here. The visionary brunette had

evidently ranged herself, was living down the reputation of early vivid

experiences and successfully cultivating the domestic virtues.