Bilbao, 16 January, 1780.
My dearest Friend,--We arrived here last night, all alive, but all very
near sick with violent colds taken on the road for want of comfortable
accommodations. I was advised on all hands to come by land rather than
wait an uncertain time for a passage by sea. But if I had known the
difficulties of travelling in that part of Spain which I have passed
through, I think I should not have ventured upon the journey. It is vain
to attempt a description of our passage. Through the province of
Gallicia, and again when we came to that of Biscay, we had an
uninterrupted succession of mountains; through that of Leon and the old
Castile, constant plains. A country tolerably good by nature, but not
well cultivated. Through the whole of the journey the taverns were
inconvenient to us, because there are no chimneys in their houses, and
we had cold weather. A great part of the way, the wretchedness of our
accommodation exceeds all description.
At Bilbao we fare very well, and have received much civility from
Messrs. Gardoqui and Sons, as we did at Ferrol and Corunna from M. de
Tournelle and M. Lagoanere. I wish I could send you some few things for
the use of the family from hence, but the risk is such that I believe I
had better wait until we get to France. I have undergone the greatest
anxiety for the children through a tedious journey and voyage. I hope
their travels will be of service to them, but those at home are best
off. My love to them. Adieu, adieu.