Scanty Fare During the Winter.--A Poor Hunting Ground.--The
Return of the Fishing Season.--The Uthlecan or Smelt.--Its
Qualities.--Vast Shoals of it.--Sturgeon.--Indian Modes of
Taking It.--The Salmon--Different Species.--Nature of the
Country About the Coast.--Forests and Forest Trees.--A
Remarkable Flowering Vine.--Animals.--Birds.--Reptiles--
Climate West of the Mountains--Mildness of the
Temperature.--Soil of the Coast and the Interior.
THE winter passed away tranquilly at Astoria. The apprehensions of
hostility from the natives had subsided; indeed, as the season advanced,
the Indians for the most part had disappeared from the neighborhood, and
abandoned the sea-coast, so that, for want of their aid, the colonists
had at times suffered considerably for want of provisions. The hunters
belonging to the establishment made frequent and wide excursions, but
with very moderate success. There were some deer and a few bears to be
found in the vicinity, and elk in great numbers; the country, however,
was so rough, and the woods so close and entangled that it was almost
impossible to beat up the game. The prevalent rains of winter, also,
rendered it difficult for the hunter to keep his arms in order. The
quantity of game, therefore, brought in by the hunters was extremely
scanty, and it was frequently necessary to put all hands on very
moderate allowance. Towards spring, however, the fishing season
commenced--the season of plenty on the Columbia. About the beginning
of February, a small kind of fish, about six inches long, called by the
natives the uthlecan, and resembling the smelt, made its appearance at
the mouth of the river. It is said to be of delicious flavor, and so fat
as to burn like a candle, for which it is often used by the natives. It
enters the river in immense shoals, like solid columns, often extending
to the depth of five or more feet, and is scooped up by the natives with
small nets at the end of poles. In this way they will soon fill a canoe,
or form a great heap upon the river banks. These fish constitute a
principal article of their food; the women drying them and stringing
them on cords. As the uthlecan is only found in the lower part of the
river, the arrival of it soon brought back the natives to the coast;
who again resorted to the factory to trade, and from that time furnished
plentiful supplies of fish.
The sturgeon makes its appearance in the river shortly after the
uthlecan, and is taken in different ways by the natives: sometimes
they spear it; but oftener they use the hook and line, and the net.
Occasionally, they sink a cord in the river by a heavy weight, with a
buoy at the upper end, to keep floating. To this cord several hooks are
attached by short lines, a few feet distant from each other, and baited
with small fish. This apparatus is often set towards night, and by the
next morning several sturgeon will be found hooked by it; for though a
large and strong fish, it makes but little resistance when ensnared.
The salmon, which are the prime fish of the Columbia, and as important
to the piscatory tribes as are the buffaloes to the hunters of the
prairies, do not enter the river until towards the latter part of May,
from which time, until the middle of August, they abound and are taken
in vast quantities, either with the spear or seine, and mostly in
shallow water. An inferior species succeeds, and continues from August
to December. It is remarkable for having a double row of teeth, half an
inch long and extremely sharp, from whence it has received the name of
the dog-toothed salmon. It is generally killed with the spear in small
rivulets, and smoked for winter provision. We have noticed in a former
chapter the mode in which the salmon are taken and cured at the falls
of the Columbia; and put tip in parcels for exportation. From these
different fisheries of the river tribes, the establishment at Astoria
had to derive much of its precarious supplies of provisions.
A year’s residence at the mouth of the Columbia, and various expeditions
in the interior, had now given the Astorians some idea of the country.
The whole coast is described as remarkably rugged and mountainous; with
dense forests of hemlock, spruce, white and red cedar, cotton-wood,
white oak, white and swamp ash, willow, and a few walnut. There is
likewise an undergrowth of aromatic shrubs, creepers, and clambering
vines, that render the forests almost impenetrable; together with
berries of various kinds, such as gooseberries, strawberries,
raspberries, both red and yellow, very large and finely flavored
whortleberries, cranberries, serviceberries, blackberries, currants,
sloes, and wild and choke cherries.
Among the flowering vines is one deserving of particular notice. Each
flower is composed of six leaves or petals, about three inches in
length, of a beautiful crimson, the inside spotted with white. Its
leaves, of a fine green, are oval, and disposed by threes. This plant
climbs upon the trees without attaching itself to them; when it has
reached the topmost branches, it descends perpendicularly, and as it
continues to grow, extends from tree to tree, until its various stalks
interlace the grove like the rigging of a ship. The stems or trunks of
this vine are tougher and more flexible than willow, and are from
fifty to one hundred fathoms in length. From the fibres, the Indians
manufacture baskets of such close texture as to hold water.
The principal quadrupeds that had been seen by the colonists in their
various expeditions were the stag, fallow deer, hart, black and grizzly
bear, antelope, ahsahta or bighorn, beaver, sea and river otter,
muskrat, fox, wolf, and panther, the latter extremely rare. The only
domestic animals among the natives were horses and dogs.
The country abounded with aquatic and land birds, such as swans, wild
geese, brant, ducks of almost every description, pelicans, herons,
gulls, snipes, curlews, eagles, vultures, crows, ravens, magpies,
woodpeckers, pigeons, partridges, pheasants, grouse, and a great variety
of singing birds.
There were few reptiles; the only dangerous kinds were the rattlesnake,
and one striped with black, yellow, and white, about four feet long.
Among the lizard kind was one about nine or ten inches in length,
exclusive of the tall, and three inches in circumference. The tail was
round, and of the same length as the body. The head was triangular,
covered with small square scales. The upper part of the body was
likewise covered with small scales, green, yellow, black, and blue. Each
foot had five toes, furnished with strong nails, probably to aid it in
burrowing, as it usually lived under ground on the plains.
A remarkable fact, characteristic of the country west of the Rocky
Mountains, is the mildness and equability of the climate. The great
mountain barrier seems to divide the continent into different climates,
even in the same degrees of latitude. The rigorous winters and sultry
summers, and all the capricious inequalities of temperature prevalent on
the Atlantic side of the mountains, are but little felt on their western
declivities. The countries between them and the Pacific are blessed with
milder and steadier temperature, resembling the climates of parallel
latitudes in Europe. In the plains and valleys but little snow falls
throughout the winter, and usually melts while falling. It rarely lies
on the ground more than two days at a time, except on the summits of the
mountains. The winters are rainy rather than cold. The rains for five
months, from the middle of October to the middle of March, are almost
incessant, and often accompanied by tremendous thunder and lightning.
The winds prevalent at this season are from the south and southeast,
which usually bring rain. Those from the north to the southwest are the
harbingers of fair weather and a clear sky. The residue of the year,
from the middle of March to the middle of October, an interval of seven
months, is serene and delightful. There is scarcely any rain throughout
this time, yet the face of the country is kept fresh and verdant by
nightly dews, and occasionally by humid fogs in the mornings. These are
not considered prejudicial to health, since both the natives and the
whites sleep in the open air with perfect impunity. While this equable
and bland temperature prevails throughout the lower country, the peaks
and ridges of the vast mountains by which it is dominated, are covered
with perpetual snow. This renders them discernible at a great distance,
shining at times like bright summer clouds, at other times assuming the
most aerial tints, and always forming brilliant and striking features
in the vast landscape. The mild temperature prevalent throughout the
country is attributed by some to the succession of winds from the
Pacific Ocean, extending from latitude twenty degrees to at least fifty
degrees north. These temper the heat of summer, so that in the shade
no one is incommoded by perspiration; they also soften the rigors
of winter, and produce such a moderation in the climate, that the
inhabitants can wear the same dress throughout the year.
The soil in the neighborhood of the sea-coast is of a brown color,
inclining to red, and generally poor; being a mixture of clay and
gravel. In the interior, and especially in the valleys of the Rocky
Mountains, the soil is generally blackish, though sometimes yellow. It
is frequently mixed with marl, and with marine substances in a state of
decomposition. This kind of soil extends to a considerable depth, as
may be perceived in the deep cuts made by ravines, and by the beds of
rivers. The vegetation in these valleys is much more abundant than near
the coast; in fact, it is these fertile intervals, locked up between
rocky sierras, or scooped out from barren wastes, that population must
extend itself, as it were, in veins and ramifications, if ever the
regions beyond the mountains should become civilized.