Scanty Fare.--A Mendicant Snake.--Embarkation on Henry
River--Joy of the Voyageurs.-Arrival at Snake River.--Rapids
and Breakers.--Beginning of Misfortunes.--Snake
Encampments.--Parley With a Savage.--A Second Disaster.--
Loss of a Boatman.--The Caldron Linn.
WHILE the canoes were in preparation, the hunters ranged about the
neighborhood, but with little success. Tracks of buffaloes were to be
seen in all directions, but none of a fresh date. There were some elk,
but extremely wild; two only were killed. Antelopes were likewise seen,
but too shy and fleet to be approached. A few beavers were taken
every night, and salmon trout of a small size, so that the camp had
principally to subsist upon dried buffalo meat.
On the 14th, a poor, half-naked Snake Indian, one of that forlorn caste
called the Shuckers, or Diggers, made his appearance at the camp. He
came from some lurking-place among the rocks and cliffs, and presented
a picture of that famishing wretchedness to which these lonely fugitives
among the mountains are sometimes reduced. Having received wherewithal
to allay his hunger, he disappeared, but in the course of a day or two
returned to the camp, bringing with him his son, a miserable boy,
still more naked and forlorn than himself. Food was given to both;
they skulked about the camp like hungry hounds, seeking what they might
devour, and having gathered up the feet and entrails of some beavers
that were lying about, slunk off with them to their den among the rocks.
By the 18th of October, fifteen canoes were completed, and on the
following day the party embarked with their effects; leaving their
horses grazing about the banks, and trusting to the honesty of the two
Snakes, and some special turn of good luck for their future recovery.
The current bore them along at a rapid rate; the light spirits of the
Canadian voyageurs, which had occasionally flagged upon land, rose to
their accustomed buoyancy on finding themselves again upon the water.
They wielded their paddles with their wonted dexterity, and for the
first time made the mountains echo with their favorite boat songs.
In the course of the day the little squadron arrived at the confluence
of Henry and Mad Rivers, which, thus united, swelled into a beautiful
stream of a light pea-green color, navigable for boats of any size,
and which, from the place of junction, took the name of Snake River, a
stream doomed to be the scene of much disaster to the travellers.
The banks were here and there fringed with willow thickets and small
cotton-wood trees. The weather was cold, and it snowed all day, and
great flocks of ducks and geese, sporting in the water or streaming
through the air, gave token that winter was at hand; yet the hearts of
the travellers were light, and, as they glided down the little river,
they flattered themselves with the hope of soon reaching the Columbia.
After making thirty miles in a southerly direction, they encamped for
the night in a neighborhood which required some little vigilance, as
there were recent traces of grizzly bears among the thickets.
On the following day the river increased in width and beauty; flowing
parallel to a range of mountains on the left, which at times were finely
reflected in its light green waters. The three snowy summits of the
Pilot Knobs or Tetons were still seen towering in the distance. After
pursuing a swift but placid course for twenty miles, the current began
to foam and brawl, and assume the wild and broken character common to
the streams west of the Rocky Mountains. In fact the rivers which flow
from those mountains to the Pacific are essentially different from those
which traverse the prairies on their eastern declivities. The latter,
though sometimes boisterous, are generally free from obstructions, and
easily navigated; but the rivers to the west of the mountains descend
more steeply and impetuously, and are continually liable to cascades
and rapids. The latter abounded in the part of the river which the
travellers were now descending. Two of the canoes filled among the
breakers; the crews were saved, but much of the lading was lost or
damaged, and one of the canoes drifted down the stream and was broken
among the rocks.
On the following day, October 21st, they made but a short distance when
they came to a dangerous strait, where the river was compressed for
nearly half a mile between perpendicular rocks, reducing it to the width
of twenty yards, and increasing its violence. Here they were obliged to
pass the canoes down cautiously by a line from the impending banks. This
consumed a great part of a day; and after they had reembarked they were
soon again impeded by rapids, when they had to unload their canoes and
carry them and their cargoes for some distance by land. It is at these
places, called “portages,” that the Canadian voyageur exhibits his most
valuable qualities; carrying heavy burdens, and toiling to and fro,
on land and in the water, over rocks and precipices, among brakes and
brambles, not only without a murmur, but with the greatest cheerfulness
and alacrity, joking and laughing and singing scraps of old French
ditties.
The spirits of the party, however, which had been elated on first
varying their journeying from land to water, had now lost some of their
buoyancy. Everything ahead was wrapped in uncertainty. They knew nothing
of the river on which they were floating. It had never been navigated
by a white man, nor could they meet with an Indian to give them
any information concerning it. It kept on its course through a vast
wilderness of silent and apparently uninhabited mountains, without a
savage wigwam upon its banks, or bark upon its waters. The difficulties
and perils they had already passed made them apprehend others before
them, that might effectually bar their progress. As they glided onward,
however, they regained heart and hope. The current continued to be
strong; but it was steady, and though they met with frequent rapids,
none of them were bad. Mountains were constantly to be seen in different
directions, but sometimes the swift river glided through prairies, and
was bordered by small cotton-wood trees and willows. These prairies
at certain seasons are ranged by migratory herds of the wide-wandering
buffalo, the tracks of which, though not of recent date, were frequently
to be seen. Here, too, were to be found the prickly pear or Indian fig,
a plant which loves a more southern climate. On the land were large
flights of magpies and American robins; whole fleets of ducks and geese
navigated the river, or flew off in long streaming files at the approach
of the canoes; while the frequent establishments of the painstaking and
quiet-loving beaver showed that the solitude of these waters was rarely
disturbed, even by the all-pervading savage.
They had now come near two hundred and eighty miles since leaving Fort
Henry, yet without seeing a human being, or a human habitation; a wild
and desert solitude extended on either side of the river, apparently
almost destitute of animal life. At length, on the 24th of October, they
were gladdened by the sight of some savage tents, and hastened to land
and visit them, for they were anxious to procure information to guide
them on their route. On their approach, however, the savages fled in
consternation. They proved to be a wandering band of Shoshonies. In
their tents were great quantities of small fish about two inches long,
together with roots and seeds, or grain, which they were drying for
winter provisions. They appeared to be destitute of tools of any kind,
yet there were bows and arrows very well made; the former were formed of
pine, cedar, or bone, strengthened by sinews, and the latter of the wood
of rosebushes, and other crooked plants, but carefully straightened, and
tipped with stone of a bottle-green color.
There were also vessels of willow and grass, so closely wrought as to
hold water, and a seine neatly made with meshes, in the ordinary manner,
of the fibres of wild flax or nettle. The humble effects of the poor
savages remained unmolested by their visitors, and a few small articles,
with a knife or two, were left in the camp, and were no doubt regarded
as invaluable prizes.
Shortly after leaving this deserted camp, and reembarking in the canoes,
the travellers met with three of the Snakes on a triangular raft made of
flags or reeds; such was their rude mode of navigating the river. They
were entirely naked excepting small mantles of hare skins over their
shoulders. The canoes approached near enough to gain a full view of
them, but they were not to be brought to a parley.
All further progress for the day was barred by a fall in the river of
about thirty feet perpendicular; at the head of which the party encamped
for the night.
The next day was one of excessive toil and but little progress: the
river winding through a wild rocky country, and being interrupted by
frequent rapids, among which the canoes were in great peril. On the
succeeding day they again visited a camp of wandering Snakes, but the
inhabitants fled with terror at the sight of a fleet of canoes, filled
with white men, coming down their solitary river.
As Mr. Hunt was extremely anxious to gain information concerning his
route, he endeavored by all kinds of friendly signs to entice back the
fugitives. At length one, who was on horseback, ventured back with fear
and trembling. He was better clad, and in better condition, than most
of his vagrant tribe that Mr. Hunt had yet seen. The chief object of
his return appeared to be to intercede for a quantity of dried meat and
salmon trout, which he had left behind; on which, probably, he
depended for his winter’s subsistence. The poor wretch approached with
hesitation, the alternate dread of famine and of white men operating
upon his mind. He made the most abject signs, imploring Mr. Hunt not to
carry off his food. The latter tried in every way to reassure him, and
offered him knives in exchange for his provisions; great as was the
temptation, the poor Snake could only prevail upon himself to spare a
part; keeping a feverish watch over the rest, lest it should be taken
away. It was in vain Mr. Hunt made inquiries of him concerning his
route, and the course of the river. The Indian was too much frightened
and bewildered to comprehend him or to reply; he did nothing but
alternately commend himself to the protection of the Good Spirit, and
supplicate Mr. Hunt not to take away his fish and buffalo meat; and in
this state they left him, trembling about his treasures.
In the course of that and the next day they made nearly eight miles;
the river inclined to the south of west, and being clear and beautiful,
nearly half a mile in width, with many populous communities of the
beaver along its banks. The 28th of October, however, was a day of
disaster. The river again became rough and impetuous, and was chafed and
broken by numerous rapids. These grew more and more dangerous, and the
utmost skill was required to steer among them. Mr. Crooks was seated in
the second canoe of the squadron, and had an old experienced Canadian
for steersman, named Antoine Clappine, one of the most valuable of the
voyageurs. The leading canoe had glided safely among the turbulent and
roaring surges, but in following it, Mr. Crooks perceived that his canoe
was bearing towards a rock. He called out to the steersman, but his
warning voice was either unheard or unheeded. In the next moment they
struck upon the rock. The canoe was split and overturned. There were
five persons on board. Mr. Crooks and one of his companions were thrown
amidst roaring breakers and a whirling current, but succeeded, by strong
swimming, to reach the shore. Clappine and two others clung to the
shattered bark, and drifted with it to a rock. The wreck struck the
rock with one end, and swinging round, flung poor Clappine off into
the raging stream, which swept him away, and he perished. His comrades
succeeded in getting upon the rock, from whence they were afterwards
taken off.
This disastrous event brought the whole squadron to a halt, and struck
a chill into every bosom. Indeed they had arrived at a terrific strait,
that forbade all further progress in the canoes, and dismayed the most
experienced voyageur. The whole body of the river was compressed into
a space of less than thirty feet in width, between two ledges of rocks,
upwards of two hundred feet high, and formed a whirling and tumultuous
vortex, so frightfully agitated as to receive the name of “The Caldron
Linn.” Beyond this fearful abyss, the river kept raging and roaring on,
until lost to sight among impending precipices.