Features of the Wilderness--Herds of Buffalo.--Antelopes--
Their Varieties and Habits.--John Day.--His Hunting
Strategy--Interview with Three Arickaras--Negotiations
Between the Rival Parties--The Left-Handed and the Big Man,
two Arickara Chiefs.--Arickara Village--Its Inhabitants--
Ceremonials on Landing--A Council Lodge.--Grand Conference--
Speech of Lisa.--Negotiation for Horses.--Shrewd Suggestion
of Gray Eyes, an Arickara Chief--Encampment of the Trading
Parties.
THE rival parties now coasted along the opposite sides of the river,
within sight of each other; the barges of Mr. Hunt always keeping some
distance in the advance, lest Lisa should push on and get first to
the Arickara village. The scenery and objects, as they proceeded, gave
evidence that they were advancing deeper and deeper into the domains of
savage nature. Boundless wastes kept extending to the eye, more and more
animated by herds of buffalo. Sometimes these unwieldy animals were seen
moving in long procession across the silent landscape; at other times
they were scattered about, singly or in groups, on the broad, enameled
prairies and green acclivities, some cropping the rich pasturage, others
reclining amidst the flowery herbage; the whole scene realizing in a
manner the old Scriptural descriptions of the vast pastoral countries of
the Orient, with “cattle upon a thousand hills.”
At one place the shores seemed absolutely lined with buffaloes; many
were making their way across the stream, snorting, and blowing, and
floundering. Numbers, in spite of every effort, were borne by the rapid
current within shot of the boats, and several were killed. At another
place a number were descried on the beach of a small island, under the
shade of the trees, or standing in the water, like cattle, to avoid the
flies and the heat of the day.
Several of the best marksmen stationed themselves in the bow of a barge
which advanced slowly and silently, stemming the current with the aid
of a broad sail and a fair breeze. The buffaloes stood gazing quietly at
the barge as it approached, perfectly unconscious of their danger. The
fattest of the herd was selected by the hunters, who all fired together
and brought down their victim.
Besides the buffaloes they saw abundance of deer, and frequent gangs
of stately elks, together with light troops of sprightly antelopes, the
fleetest and most beautiful inhabitants of the prairies.
There are two kinds of antelopes in these regions, one nearly the size
of the common deer, the other not much larger than a goat. Their color
is a light gray, or rather dun, slightly spotted with white; and they
have small horns like those of the deer, which they never shed. Nothing
can surpass the delicate and elegant finish of their limbs, in which
lightness, elasticity, and strength are wonderfully combined. All
the attitudes and movements of this beautiful animal are graceful and
picturesque; and it is altogether as fit a subject for the fanciful uses
of the poet as the oft-sung gazelle of the East.
Their habits are shy and capricious; they keep on the open plains, are
quick to take the alarm, and bound away with a fleetness that defies
pursuit. When thus skimming across a prairie in the autumn, their light
gray or dun color blends with the hue of the withered herbage, the
swiftness of their motion baffles the eye, and they almost seem
unsubstantial forms, driven like gossamer before the wind.
While they thus keep to the open plain and trust to their speed, they
are safe; but they have a prurient curiosity that sometimes betrays
them to their ruin. When they have scud for some distance and left their
pursuer behind, they will suddenly stop and turn to gaze at the object
of their alarm. If the pursuit is not followed up they will, after a
time, yield to their inquisitive hankering, and return to the place from
whence they have been frightened.
John Day, the veteran hunter already mentioned, displayed his experience
and skill in entrapping one of these beautiful animals. Taking advantage
of its well known curiosity, he laid down flat among the grass, and
putting his handkerchief on the end of his ramrod, waved it gently
in the air. This had the effect of the fabled fascination of the
rattlesnake. The antelope approached timidly, pausing and reconnoitering
with increased curiosity; moving round the point of attraction in a
circle, but still drawing nearer and nearer, until being within range of
the deadly rifle, he fell a victim to his curiosity.
On the 10th of June, as the party were making brisk progress with a fine
breeze, they met a canoe with three Indians descending the river. They
came to a parley, and brought news from the Arickara village. The war
party, which had caused such alarm at the sand-bar, had reached the
village some days previously, announced the approach of a party of
traders, and displayed with great ostentation the presents they had
received from them. On further conversation with these three Indians,
Mr. Hunt learnt the real danger which he had run, when hemmed up within
the sand-bar. The Mandans who were of the war party, when they saw the
boat so completely entrapped and apparently within their power, had been
eager for attacking it, and securing so rich a prize. The Minatarees,
also, were nothing loath, feeling in some measure committed in hostility
to the whites, in consequence of their tribe having killed two white men
above the fort of the Missouri Fur Company. Fortunately, the Arickaras,
who formed the majority of the war party, proved true in their
friendship to the whites, and prevented any hostile act, otherwise a
bloody affray, and perhaps a horrible massacre might have ensued.
On the 11th of June, Mr. Hunt and his companions encamped near an island
about six miles below the Arickara village. Mr. Lisa encamped, as
usual, at no great distance; but the same sullen jealous reserve and
non-intercourse continued between them. Shortly after pitching the
tents, Mr. Breckenridge made his appearance as an ambassador from the
rival camp. He came on behalf of his companions, to arrange the manner
of making their entrance into the village and of receiving the chiefs;
for everything of the kind is a matter of grave ceremonial among the
Indians.
The partners now expressed frankly their deep distrust of the intentions
of Mr. Lisa, and their apprehensions, that, out of the jealousy of
trade, and resentment of recent disputes, he might seek to instigate
the Arickaras against them. Mr. Breckenridge assured them that their
suspicions were entirely groundless, and pledged himself that nothing
of the kind should take place. He found it difficult, however, to remove
their distrust; the conference, therefore, ended without producing
any cordial understanding; and M’Lellan recurred to his old threat of
shooting Lisa the instant he discovered anything like treachery in his
proceedings.
That night the rain fell in torrents, accompanied by thunder and
lightning. The camp was deluged, and the bedding and baggage drenched.
All hands embarked at an early hour, and set forward for the village.
About nine o’clock, when half way, they met a canoe, on board of which
were two Arickara dignitaries. One, a fine-looking man, much above the
common size, was hereditary chief of the village; he was called
the Left-handed, on account of a personal peculiarity. The other, a
ferocious-looking savage, was the war chief, or generalissimo; he was
known by the name of the Big Man, an appellation he well deserved from
his size, for he was of a gigantic frame. Both were of fairer complexion
than is usual with savages.
They were accompanied by an interpreter; a French creole, one of those
haphazard wights of Gallic origin who abound upon our frontiers, living
among the Indians like one of their own race. He had been twenty years
among the Arickaras, had a squaw and troop of piebald children, and
officiated as interpreter to the chiefs. Through this worthy organ
the two dignitaries signified to Mr. Hunt their sovereign intention to
oppose the further progress of the expedition up the river unless a boat
were left to trade with them. Mr. Hunt, in reply, explained the object
of his voyage, and his intention of debarking at their village and
proceeding thence by land; and that he would willingly trade with them
for a supply of horses for his journey. With this explanation they were
perfectly satisfied, and putting about, steered for their village to
make preparations for the reception of the strangers.
The village of the Rikaras, Arickaras, or Ricarees, for the name is
thus variously written, is between the 46th and 47th parallels of north
latitude, and fourteen hundred and thirty miles above the mouth of the
Missouri. The party reached it about ten o’clock in the morning, but
landed on the opposite side of the river, where they spread out their
baggage and effects to dry. From hence they commanded an excellent view
of the village. It was divided into two portions, about eighty yards
apart, being inhabited by two distinct bands. The whole extended about
three-quarters of a mile along the river bank, and was composed of
conical lodges, that looked like so many small hillocks, being wooden
frames intertwined with osier, and covered with earth. The plain beyond
the village swept up into hills of considerable height, but the whole
country was nearly destitute of trees. While they were regarding
the village, they beheld a singular fleet coming down the river. It
consisted of a number of canoes, each made of a single buffalo hide
stretched on sticks, so as to form a kind of circular trough. Each one
was navigated by a single squaw, who knelt in the bottom and paddled;
towing after her frail bark a bundle of floating wood intended for
firing. This kind of canoe is in frequent use among the Indians; the
buffalo hide being readily made up into a bundle and transported on
horseback; it is very serviceable in conveying baggage across the
rivers.
The great number of horses grazing around the village, and scattered
over the neighboring hills and valleys, bespoke the equestrian habit of
the Arickaras, who are admirable horsemen. Indeed, in the number of his
horses consists the wealth of an Indian of the prairies; who resembles
an Arab in his passion for this noble animal, and in his adroitness in
the management of it.
After a time, the voice of the sovereign chief, “the Left-handed,” was
heard across the river, announcing that the council lodge was preparing,
and inviting the white men to come over. The river was half a mile in
width, yet every word uttered by the chieftain was heard; this may be
partly attributed to the distinct manner in which every syllable of the
compound words in the Indian language is articulated and accented; but
in truth, a savage warrior might often rival Achilles himself for force
of lungs. *
(* Bradbury, p. 110.)
Now came the delicate point of management--how the two rival parties
were to conduct their visit to the village with proper circumspection
and due decorum. Neither of the leaders had spoken to each other since
their quarrel. All communication had been by ambassadors. Seeing the
jealousy entertained of Lisa, Mr. Breckenridge, in his negotiation, had
arranged that a deputation from each party should cross the river at the
same time, so that neither would have the first access to the ear of the
Arickaras.
The distrust of Lisa, however, had increased in proportion as they
approached the sphere of action; and M’Lellan, in particular, kept a
vigilant eye upon his motions, swearing to shoot him if he attempted to
cross the river first.
About two o’clock the large boat of Mr. Hunt was manned, and he stepped
on board, accompanied by Messrs. M’Kenzie and M’Lellan; Lisa at the
same time embarked in his barge; the two deputations amounted in all
to fourteen persons, and never was any movement of rival potentates
conducted with more wary exactness.
They landed amidst a rabble crowd, and were received on the bank by
the left-handed chief, who conducted them into the village with grave
courtesy; driving to the right and left the swarms of old squaws,
imp-like boys, and vagabond dogs, with which the place abounded. They
wound their way between the cabins, which looked like dirt-heaps huddled
together without any plan, and surrounded by old palisades; all filthy
in the extreme, and redolent of villainous smells.
At length they arrived at the council lodge. It was somewhat spacious,
and formed of four forked trunks of trees placed upright, supporting
cross-beams and a frame of poles interwoven with osiers, and the whole
covered with earth. A hole sunken in the center formed the fireplace,
and immediately above was a circular hole in the apex of the lodge,
to let out the smoke and let in the daylight. Around the lodge were
recesses for sleeping, like the berths on board ships, screened from
view by curtains of dressed skins. At the upper end of the lodge was
a kind of hunting and warlike trophy, consisting of two buffalo heads
garishly painted, surmounted by shields, bows, quivers of arrows, and
other weapons.
On entering the lodge the chief pointed to mats or cushions which
had been placed around for the strangers, and on which they seated
themselves, while he placed himself on a kind of stool. An old man then
came forward with the pipe of peace or good-fellowship, lighted and
handed it to the chief, and then falling back, squatted himself near the
door. The pipe was passed from mouth to mouth, each one taking a whiff,
which is equivalent to the inviolable pledge of faith, of taking salt
together among the ancient Britons. The chief then made a sign to the
old pipe-bearer, who seemed to fill, likewise, the station of herald,
seneschal, and public crier, for he ascended to the top of the lodge
to make proclamation. Here he took his post beside the aperture for the
emission of smoke and the admission of light; the chief dictated from
within what he was to proclaim, and he bawled it forth with a force of
lungs that resounded over all the village. In this way he summoned the
warriors and great men to council; every now and then reporting progress
to his chief through the hole in the roof.
In a little while the braves and sages began to enter one by one, as
their names were called or announced, emerging from under the buffalo
robe suspended over the entrance instead of a door, stalking across the
lodge to the skins placed on the floor, and crouching down on them in
silence. In this way twenty entered and took their seats, forming an
assemblage worthy of the pencil: for the Arickaras are a noble race of
men, large and well formed, and maintain a savage grandeur and gravity
of demeanor in their solemn ceremonials.
All being seated, the old seneschal prepared the pipe of ceremony or
council, and having lit it, handed it to the chief. He inhaled the
sacred smoke, gave a puff upward to the heaven, then downward to the
earth, then towards the east; after this it was as usual passed from
mouth to mouth, each holding it respectfully until his neighbor had
taken several whiffs; and now the grand council was considered as opened
in due form.
The chief made an harangue welcoming the white men to his village, and
expressing his happiness in taking them by the hand as friends; but at
the same time complaining of the poverty of himself and his people; the
usual prelude among Indians to begging or hard bargaining.
Lisa rose to reply, and the eyes of Hunt and his companions were eagerly
turned upon him, those of M’Lellan glaring like a basilisk’s. He began
by the usual expressions of friendship, and then proceeded to explain
the object of his own party. Those persons, however, said he, pointing
to Mr. Hunt and his companions, are of a different party, and are quite
distinct in their views; but, added he, though we are separate parties,
we make but one common cause when the safety of either is concerned. Any
injury or insult offered to them I shall consider as done to myself, and
will resent it accordingly. I trust, therefore, that you will treat them
with the same friendship that you have always manifested for me, doing
everything in your power to serve them and to help them on their way.
The speech of Lisa, delivered with an air of frankness and sincerity,
agreeably surprised and disappointed the rival party.
Mr. Hunt then spoke, declaring the object of his journey to the great
Salt Lake beyond the mountains, and that he should want horses for the
purpose, for which he was ready to trade, having brought with him plenty
of goods. Both he and Lisa concluded their speeches by making presents
of tobacco.
The left-handed chieftain in reply promised his friendship and aid to
the new comers, and welcomed them to his village. He added that they had
not the number of horses to spare that Mr. Hunt required, and expressed
a doubt whether they should be able to part with any. Upon this, another
chieftain, called Gray Eyes, made a speech, and declared that they could
readily supply Mr. Hunt with all the horses he might want, since, if
they had not enough in the village, they could easily steal more. This
honest expedient immediately removed the main difficulty; but the chief
deferred all trading for a day or two; until he should have time
to consult with his subordinate chiefs as to market rates; for the
principal chief of a village, in conjunction with his council, usually
fixes the prices at which articles shall be bought and sold, and to them
the village must conform.
The council now broke up. Mr. Hunt transferred his camp across the river
at a little distance below the village, and the left-handed chief placed
some of his warriors as a guard to prevent the intrusion of any of his
people. The camp was pitched on the river bank just above the boats. The
tents, and the men wrapped in their blankets and bivouacking on skins in
the open air, surrounded the baggage at night. Four sentinels also kept
watch within sight of each other outside of the camp until midnight,
when they were relieved by four others who mounted guard until daylight.
Mr. Lisa encamped near to Mr. Hunt, between him and the village.
The speech of Mr. Lisa in the council had produced a pacific effect in
the encampment. Though the sincerity of his friendship and good-will
towards the new company still remained matter of doubt, he was no longer
suspected of an intention to play false. The intercourse between the two
leaders was therefore resumed, and the affairs of both parties went on
harmoniously.