Camp Gossip.--Deserters.--Recruits.--Kentucky Hunters.--A
Veteran Woodman.--Tidings of Mr. Henry.-Danger From the
Blackfeet.--Alteration of Plans.--Scenery of the River.--
Buffalo Roads.--Iron Ore.--Country of the Sioux.--A Land of
Danger.-apprehensions of the Voyageurs.--Indian Scouts.--
Threatened Hostilities.--A Council of War.--An Array of
Battle.--A Parley.--The Pipe of Peace.--Speech-Making.
IT was about noon when the party left the Poncas village, about a league
beyond which they passed the mouth of the Quicourt, or Rapid River
(called, in the original French, l’Eau Qui Court). After having
proceeded some distance further, they landed, and encamped for the
night. In the evening camp, the voyageurs gossiped, as usual, over the
events of the day; and especially over intelligence picked up among the
Poncas. These Indians had confirmed the previous reports of the hostile
intentions of the Sioux, and had assured them that five tribes, or
bands, of that fierce nation were actually assembled higher up the
river, and waiting to cut them off. This evening gossip, and the
terrific stories of Indian warfare to which it gave rise, produced a
strong effect upon the imagination of the irresolute; and in the morning
it was discovered that the two men, who had joined the party at the
Omaha village, and been so bounteously fitted out, had deserted in the
course of the night, carrying with them all their equipments. As it was
known that one of them could not swim, it was hoped that the banks of
the Quicourt River would bring them to a halt. A general pursuit was
therefore instituted, but without success.
On the following morning (May 26th), as they were all on shore,
breakfasting on one of the beautiful banks of the river, they
observed two canoes descending along the opposite side. By the aid of
spy-glasses, they ascertained that there were two white men in one of
the canoes, and one in the other. A gun was discharged, which called the
attention of the voyagers, who crossed over. They proved to be the three
Kentucky hunters, of the true “dreadnought” stamp. Their names were
Edward Robinson, John Hoback, and Jacob Rizner. Robinson was a veteran
backwoodsman, sixty-six years of age. He had been one of the first
settlers of Kentucky, and engaged in many of the conflicts of the
Indians on “the Bloody Ground.” In one of these battles he had been
scalped, and he still wore a handkerchief bound round his head to
protect the part. These men had passed several years in the upper
wilderness. They had been in the service of the Missouri Company under
Mr. Henry, and had crossed the Rocky Mountains with him in the preceding
year, when driven from his post on the Missouri by the hostilities of
the Blackfeet. After crossing the mountains, Mr. Henry had established
himself on one of the head branches of the Columbia River. There they
had remained with him some months, hunting and trapping, until, having
satisfied their wandering propensities, they felt disposed to return to
the families and comfortable homes which they had left in Kentucky. They
had accordingly made their way back across the mountains, and down
the rivers, and were in full career for St. Louis, when thus suddenly
interrupted. The sight of a powerful party of traders, trappers,
hunters, and voyageurs, well armed and equipped, furnished at all
points, in high health and spirits, and banqueting lustily on the
green margin of the river, was a spectacle equally stimulating to these
veteran backwoodsmen with the glorious array of a campaigning army to
an old soldier; but when they learned the grand scope and extent of the
enterprise in hand, it was irresistible; homes and families and all the
charms of green Kentucky vanished from their thoughts; they cast loose
their canoes to drift down the stream, and joyfully enlisted in the band
of adventurers. They engaged on similar terms with some of the other
hunters. The company was to fit them out, and keep them supplied with
the requisite equipments and munitions, and they were to yield one half
of the produce of their hunting and trapping.
The addition of three such staunch recruits was extremely acceptable
at this dangerous part of the river. The knowledge of the country which
they had acquired, also, in their journeys and hunting excursions along
the rivers and among the Rocky Mountains was all important; in fact,
the information derived from them induced Mr. Hunt to alter his future
course. He had hitherto intended to proceed by the route taken by Lewis
and Clarke in their famous exploring expedition, ascending he Missouri
to its forks, and thence going, by land, across the mountains. These men
informed him, however, that, on taking that course he would have to pass
through the country invested by the savage tribe of the Blackfeet, and
would be exposed to their hostilities; they being, as has already been
observed, exasperated to deadly animosity against the whites, on account
of the death of one of their tribe by the hand of Captain Lewis. They
advised him rather to pursue a route more to the southward, being
the same by which they had returned. This would carry them over the
mountains about where the head-waters of the Platte and the Yellowstone
take their rise, at a place much more easy and practicable than that
where Lewis and Clarke had crossed. In pursuing this course, also, he
would pass through a country abounding with game, where he would have a
better chance of procuring a constant supply of provisions than by the
other route, and would run less risk of molestation from the Blackfeet.
Should he adopt this advice, it would be better for him to abandon the
river at the Arickara town, at which he would arrive in the course of a
few days. As the Indians at that town possessed horses in abundance,
he might purchase a sufficient number of them for his great journey
overland, which would commence at that place.
After reflecting on this advice, and consulting with his associates, Mr.
Hunt came to the determination to follow the route thus pointed out, to
which the hunters engaged to pilot him.
The party continued their voyage with delightful May weather. The
prairies bordering on the river were gayly painted with innumerable
flowers, exhibiting the motley confusion of colors of a Turkey carpet.
The beautiful islands, also, on which they occasionally halted,
presented the appearance of mingled grove and garden. The trees were
often covered with clambering grapevines in blossom, which perfumed
the air. Between the stately masses of the groves were grassy lawns and
glades, studded with flowers, or interspersed with rose-bushes in full
bloom. These islands were often the resort of the buffalo, the elk,
and the antelope, who had made innumerable paths among the trees and
thickets, which had the effect of the mazy walks and alleys of parks and
shrubberies. Sometimes, where the river passed between high banks and
bluffs, the roads made by the tramp of buffaloes for many ages along
the face of the heights, looked like so many well-travelled highways.
At other places the banks were banded with great veins of iron ore, laid
bare by the abrasion of the river. At one place the course of the river
was nearly in a straight line for about fifteen miles. The banks sloped
gently to its margin, without a single tree, but bordered with grass and
herbage of a vivid green. Along each bank, for the whole fifteen miles,
extended a stripe, one hundred yards in breadth, of a deep rusty brown,
indicating an inexhaustible bed of iron, through the center of which the
Missouri had worn its way. Indications of the continuance of this bed
were afterwards observed higher up the river. It is, in fact, one of the
mineral magazines which nature has provided in the heart of this vast
realm of fertility, and which, in connection with the immense beds of
coal on the same river, seem garnered up as the elements of the future
wealth and power of the mighty West.
The sight of these mineral treasures greatly excited the curiosity
of Mr. Bradbury, and it was tantalizing to him to be checked in his
scientific researches, and obliged to forego his usual rambles on shore;
but they were now entering the fated country of the Sioux Tetons, in
which it was dangerous to wander about unguarded.
This country extends for some days’ journey along the river, and
consists of vast prairies, here and there diversified by swelling hills,
and cut up by ravines, the channels of turbid streams in the rainy
seasons, but almost destitute of water during the heats of summer. Here
and there on the sides of the hills, or along the alluvial borders and
bottoms of the ravines, are groves and skirts of forest: but for the
most part the country presented to the eye a boundless waste, covered
with herbage, but without trees.
The soil of this immense region is strongly impregnated with sulphur,
copperas, alum, and glauber salts; its various earths impart a deep
tinge to the streams which drain it, and these, with the crumbling of
the banks along the Missouri, give to the waters of that river much of
the coloring matter with which they are clouded.
Over this vast tract the roving bands of the Sioux Tetons hold their
vagrant sway, subsisting by the chase of the buffalo, the elk, the
deer, and the antelope, and waging ruthless warfare with other wandering
tribes.
As the boats made their way up the stream bordered by this land of
danger, many of the Canadian voyageurs, whose fears had been awakened,
would regard with a distrustful eye the boundless waste extending on
each side. All, however, was silent, and apparently untenanted by
a human being. Now and then a herd of deer would be seen feeding
tranquilly among the flowery herbage, or a line of buffaloes, like a
caravan on its march, moving across the distant profile of the prairie.
The Canadians, however, began to apprehend an ambush in every thicket,
and to regard the broad, tranquil plain as a sailor eyes some shallow
and perfidious sea, which, though smooth and safe to the eye, conceals
the lurking rock or treacherous shoal. The very name of a Sioux became
a watchword of terror. Not an elk, a wolf, or any other animal, could
appear on the hills, but the boats resounded with exclamations from stem
to stern, “voila les Sioux! voila les Sioux!” (there are the Sioux! there
are the Sioux!) Whenever it was practicable, the night encampment was on
some island in the center of the stream.
On the morning of the 31st of May, as the travellers were breakfasting
on the right bank of the river, the usual alarm was given, but with more
reason, as two Indians actually made their appearance on a bluff on the
opposite or northern side, and harangued them in a loud voice. As it
was impossible at that distance to distinguish what they said, Mr. Hunt,
after breakfast, crossed the river with Pierre Dorion, the interpreter,
and advanced boldly to converse with them, while the rest remained
watching in mute suspense the movements of the parties. As soon as Mr.
Hunt landed, one of the Indians disappeared behind the hill, but shortly
reappeared on horseback, and went scouring off across the heights. Mr.
Hunt held some conference with the remaining savage, and then recrossed
the river to his party.
These two Indians proved to be spies or scouts of a large war party
encamped about a league off, and numbering two hundred and eighty
lodges, or about six hundred warriors, of three different tribes
of Sioux; the Yangtons Ahna, the Tetons Bois-brule, and the Tetons
Min-na-kine-azzo. They expected daily to be reinforced by two other
tribes, and had been waiting eleven days for the arrival of Mr. Hunt’s
party, with a determination to oppose their progress up the river; being
resolved to prevent all trade of the white men with their enemies the
Arickaras, Mandans, and Minatarees. The Indian who had galloped off on
horseback had gone to give notice of the approach of the party, so that
they might now look out for some fierce scenes with those piratical
savages, of whom they had received so many formidable accounts.
The party braced up their spirits to the encounter, and reembarking,
pulled resolutely up the stream. An island for some time intervened
between them and the opposite side of the river; but on clearing the
upper end, they came in full view of the hostile shore. There was a
ridge of hills down which the savages were pouring in great numbers,
some on horseback, and some on foot. Reconnoitering them with the aid of
glasses, they perceived that they were all in warlike array, painted
and decorated for battle. Their weapons were bows and arrows, and a few
short carbines, and most of them had round shields. Altogether they had
a wild and gallant appearance, and, taking possession of a point which
commanded the river, ranged themselves along the bank as if prepared to
dispute their passage.
At sight of this formidable front of war, Mr. Hunt and his companions
held counsel together. It was plain that the rumors they had heard were
correct, and the Sioux were determined to oppose their progress by force
of arms. To attempt to elude them and continue along the river was out
of the question. The strength of the mid-current was too violent to be
withstood, and the boats were obliged to ascend along the river banks.
These banks were often high and perpendicular, affording the savages
frequent stations, from whence, safe themselves, and almost unseen, they
might shower down their missiles upon the boats below, and retreat
at will, without danger from pursuit. Nothing apparently remained,
therefore, but to fight or turn back. The Sioux far outnumbered them,
it is true, but their own party was about sixty strong, well armed and
supplied with ammunition; and, beside their guns and rifles, they had
a swivel and two howitzers mounted in the boats. Should they succeed in
breaking this Indian force by one vigorous assault, it was likely they
would be deterred from making any future attack of consequence. The
fighting alternative was, therefore, instantly adopted, and the boats
pulled to shore nearly opposite to the hostile force. Here the arms were
all examined and put in order. The swivel and howitzers were then loaded
with powder and discharged, to let the savages know by the report how
formidably they were provided. The noise echoed along the shores of the
river, and must have startled the warriors who were only accustomed to
sharp reports of rifles. The same pieces were then loaded with as
many bullets as they would probably bear; after which the whole party
embarked, and pulled across the river. The Indians remained watching
them in silence, their painted forms and visages glaring in the sun, and
their feathers fluttering in the breeze. The poor Canadians eyed them
with rueful glances, and now and then a fearful ejaculation escaped
them. “Parbleu! this is a sad scrape we are in, brother!” one would
mutter to the next oarsman. “Aye, aye!” the other would reply, “we are
not going to a wedding, my friend!”
When the boats arrived within rifle-shot, the hunters and other fighting
personages on board seized their weapons, and prepared for action.
As they rose to fire, a confusion took place among the savages. They
displayed their buffalo robes, raised them with both hands above their
heads, and then spread them before them on the ground. At sight of
this, Pierre Dorion eagerly cried out to the party not to fire, as
this movement was a peaceful signal, and an invitation to a parley.
Immediately about a dozen of the principal warriors, separating from
the rest, descended to the edge of the river, lighted a fire, seated
themselves in a semicircle round it, and, displaying the calumet,
invited the party to land. Mr. Hunt now called a council of the partners
on board of his boat. The question was, whether to trust to the
amicable overtures of these ferocious people? It was determined in the
affirmative; for, otherwise, there was no alternative but to fight them.
The main body of the party were ordered to remain on board of the
boats, keeping within shot and prepared to fire in case of any signs
of treachery; while Mr. Hunt and the other partners (M’Kenzie, Crooks,
Miller, and M’Lellan) proceeded to land, accompanied by the interpreter
and Mr. Bradbury. The chiefs, who awaited them on the margin of the
river, remained seated in their semicircle, without stirring a limb
or moving a muscle, motionless as so many statues. Mr. Hunt and his
companions advanced without hesitation, and took their seats on the sand
so as to complete the circle. The band of warriors who lined the
banks above stood looking down in silent groups and clusters, some
ostentatiously equipped and decorated, others entirely naked but
fantastically painted, and all variously armed.
The pipe of peace was now brought forward with due ceremony. The bowl
was of a species of red stone resembling porphyry; the stem was six feet
in length, decorated with tufts of horse-hair dyed red. The pipe-bearer
stepped within the circle, lighted the pipe, held it towards the sun,
then towards the different points of the compass, after which he handed
it to the principal chief. The latter smoked a few whiffs, then, holding
the head of the pipe in his hand, offered the other end to Mr. Hunt,
and to each one successively in the circle. When all had smoked, it
was considered that an assurance of good faith and amity had been
interchanged. Mr. Hunt now made a speech in French, which was
interpreted as he proceeded by Pierre Dorion. He informed the Sioux of
the real object of the expedition of himself and his companions, which
was, not to trade with any of the tribes up the river, but to cross the
mountains to the great salt lake in the west, in search of some of their
brothers, whom they had not seen for eleven months. That he had heard of
the intention of the Sioux to oppose his passage, and was prepared, as
they might see, to effect it at all hazards; nevertheless, his feelings
towards the Sioux were friendly, in proof of which he had brought them
a present of tobacco and corn. So saying, he ordered about fifteen
carottes of tobacco, and as many bags of corn, to be brought from the
boat and laid in a heap near the council fire.
The sight of these presents mollified the chieftain, who had, doubtless,
been previously rendered considerate by the resolute conduct of the
white men, the judicious disposition of their little armament, the
completeness of their equipments, and the compact array of battle which
they presented. He made a speech in reply, in which he stated the object
of their hostile assemblage, which had been merely to prevent supplies
of arms and ammunition from going to the Arickaras, Mandans, and
Minatarees, with whom they were at war; but being now convinced that the
party were carrying no supplies of the kind, but merely proceeding in
quest of their brothers beyond the mountains, they would not impede them
in their voyage. He concluded by thanking them for their present, and
advising them to encamp on the opposite side of the river, as he had
some young men among his warriors for whose discretion he could not be
answerable, and who might be troublesome.
Here ended the conference: they all arose, shook hands, and parted. Mr.
Hunt and his companions re-embarked, and the boats proceeded on their
course unmolested.