_Dress of the English Gentlemen during the Early part of the Last
Century._
In the reign of King William III., the English gentlemen affected to
dress like their dependents. Their hats were laced, and their coats and
waistcoats were embroidered with gold and silver fringe; indeed it
really became extremely difficult to distinguish a man of quality from
one of his lackeys. They did not, however, long persevere in this
ridiculous imitation, for they soon afterwards, like the ladies,
servilely followed the French fashions. The great partiality of the
English _beau monde_ towards the _bon ton_ of France, was a
wonderful advantage to that country--an advantage which the English
government in vain endeavoured to abolish, although a heavy duty was
imposed on all French ribbon and lace imported into this kingdom. Many
millions were annually expended in French cambric, muslin, ribbon, and
lace, which useless expenditure very sensibly injured our commercial
transactions with other nations.
Perukes and long wigs were worn at the revolution; but these being
greatly inconvenient in all weathers, some people _tied up_ their
wigs, which was the first occasion of short wigs coming into fashion.
Some few years afterwards, bob-wigs were adopted by the gentlemen,
especially by those of the army and the navy.
The English costume was remarkably neat and plain anterior to the year
1748; at which period, however, all gentlemen rather resembled military
officers than private individuals, for their coats were not only richly
embroidered with gold and silver, but they even assumed the cockade in
their hats, and carried _long_ rapiers at their sides. At length this
imposing attire was adopted by the merchants and tradesmen of the
metropolis, and soon afterwards by the most notorious rogues and
pickpockets in town, so that when any person with a laced coat, a
cockade, and a sword, walked along the streets of London, it was
absolutely impossible to determine whether he affected to be thought a
nobleman, a military officer, a tradesman, or a pickpocket, for he bore
an equal resemblance to each of these characters.
In the year 1749, hair-powder was used by the _finished_ gentlemen,
though the use of it, a year or two previous, was prohibited in every
class of society. Of the costume of this period (_i.e._ about
1749), the immortal Hogarth, in his works, has left us numerous
specimens, which need no comment here: his productions, indeed, are so
equal in merit, that it is impossible to decide which is his _ne plus
ultra_.
In conclusion, I would advise the reader to refer to a few of Hogarth's
prints, for they will admirably serve to illustrate the above
observations on the fashions and habits of our forefathers.
* * * * *
_Astronomical Occurrences_
_FOR NOVEMBER, 1827._
(_For the Mirror_.)
Should the afternoon of Saturday, the 3rd of the month, prove
favourable, we shall be afforded an opportunity of witnessing another of
those interesting phenomena--eclipses, at least the latter part of one,
a portion of it only being visible to the inhabitants of this island;
the defect above alluded to is a lunar one. The passage of the moon
through the earth's shadow commences at 3 h. 29 m. 34 s. afternoon; she
rises at Greenwich at 4 h. 45 m. 34 s. with the northern part of her disk
darkened to the extent of nearly 10 digits. The greatest obscuration
will take place at 5 h. 7 m. 42 s. when 10-1/2 digits will be eclipsed; she
then recedes from the earth's shadow, when the sun's light will first be
perceived extending itself on her lower limb towards the east; it will
gradually increase till she entirely emerges from her veil of darkness,
the extreme verge of which leaves her at her upper limb 32 deg. from her
vertex, or highest point of her disc.
We have the following in "Moore," some years ago, on the nature and
causes of eclipses of the sun and moon:--
"Far different sun's and moon's eclipses are,
The moon's are often, but the sun's more rare
The moon's do much deface her beauty bright;
Sol's do not his, but hide from us his sight:
It is the earth the moon's defect procures,
'Tis the moon's shadow that the sun obscures.
Eastward, moon's front beginneth first to lack,
Westward, sun's brows begin their mourning black:
Moon's eclipses come when she most glorious shines,
Sun's in moon's wane, when beauty most declines;
Moon's general, towards heaven and earth together,
Sun's but to earth, nor to all places neither."
The Sun enters _Sagittarius_ on the 23rd, at 1 h. 2 m. morning.
Mercury will be visible on the 10th, in 10 deg. of _Sagittarius_, a
little after sunset, being then at his greatest eastern elongation; he
is stationary on the 20th, and passes his inferior conjunction on the
30th, at 1-3/4 h. afternoon.
Venus is in conjunction with the above planet on the 24th, at 9 h.
evening; she sets on the 1st at 5 h. 7 m., and on the 30th at 4 h. 47 m.
evening.
Jupiter may be seen before sunrise making his appearance above the
horizon about 5 h.; he is not yet distant enough from the sun to render
the eclipses of his satellites visible to us.
A small comet has just been discovered, situated in one of the feet of
_Cassiopea_. It is invisible to the naked eye, and appears
approaching the pole with great rapidity.