Although we shall forestall ourselves a little, we may here notice one

more alteration in a street-name near Osgoode Hall. William Street,

immediately west of the Avenue leading to the University, has in recent

times been changed to Simcoe Street. It is true, William Street was

nearly in a line with the street previously known as Simcoe Street;

nevertheless, starting as it conspicuously did somewhat to the west of

that line, it was a street sufficiently distinct to be entitled to

retain an independent name. Here again, an item of local history has

been obliterated. William Street was a record on the soil of the first

name of an early Chief Justice of Upper Canada, who projected the street

and gave the land. Dummer Street, the next street westward, bears his

second name.

Of "Powell," his third name we have already spoken elsewhere, and shall

again almost immediately have to speak.

When it shall be proposed to alter the name of Dummer Street, with the

hope, perhaps, of improving the fame of the locality along with its

name, let the case of March Street be recalled. In the case of March

Street, the rose, notwithstanding a change of name, retained its

perfume: and the Colonial Minister of the day, Lord Stanley, received

but a sorry compliment when his name was made to displace that of the

Earl of March. (It was from this second title of the Duke of Richmond

that March Street had its name.)--It is probable that the Dummer Street

of to-day, like the March Street of yesterday, would, under another

name, continue much what it is. In all such quarters, it is not a change

of name that is of any avail: but the presence of the schoolmaster and

home-missionary, backed up by landlords and builders, studious of the

public health and morals, as well as of private interests.

_Digression Northward at the College Avenue._

The fine vista of the College Avenue, opposite to which we have now

arrived, always recalls to our recollection a certain bright spring

morning, when on reaching school a whole holiday was unexpectedly

announced; and when, as a mode of filling up a portion of the

unlooked-for vacant time, it was agreed between two or three young lads

to pay a visit to the place on Lot Street where, as the report had

spread amongst us, they were beginning to make visible preparations for

the commencement of the University of King's College. The minds of

growing lads in the neighbourhood of York at that period had very vague

ideas of what a University really was. It was a place where studies were

carried on, but how or under what conditions, there was of necessity

little conception. Curiosity, however, was naturally excited by the talk

on the lips of every one that a University was one day to be established

at York; and now suddenly we learned that actual beginnings were to be

seen of the much-talked-of institution. On the morning of the fine

spring day referred to, we accordingly undertook an exploration.

On arriving at the spot to which we had been directed, we found that a

long strip of land running in a straight line northwards had been marked

out, after the manner of a newly-opened side line or concession road in

the woods. We found a number of men actually at work with axes and

mattocks; yokes of oxen, too, were straining at strong ploughs, which

forced a way in amongst the roots and small stumps of the natural

brushwood, and, here and there, underneath a rough mat of tangled grass,

bringing to light, now black vegetable mould, now dry clay, now loose

red sand. Longitudinally, up the middle of the space marked off, several

bold furrows were cut, those on the right inclining to the left, and

those on the left inclining to the right, as is the wont in primitive

turnpiking.

One novelty we discovered, viz., that on each side along a portion of

the newly-cleared ground, young saplings had been planted at regular

intervals; these, we were told, were horse-chestnuts, procured from the

United States expressly for the purpose of forming a double row of trees

here. In the neighbourhood of York the horse-chestnut was then a rarity.

Everywhere throughout the North American continent, as in the numerous

newly-opened areas of the British Empire elsewhere on the globe's

surface, instances, of course, abound of wonderful progress made in a

brief interval of time. For ourselves, we seem sometimes as if we were

moving among the unrealities of a dream when we deliberately review the

steps in the march of physical and social improvement, which, within a

fractional portion only of a retrospect not very extended, can be

recalled, in the region where our own lot has been cast, and, in

particular, in the neighbourhood where we are at this moment pausing.

The grand mediaeval-looking structure of University College in the

grounds at the head of the Avenue, continues to this day to be a

surprise somewhat bewildering to the eye and mind, whenever it breaks

upon our view. It looks so completely a thing of the old world and of an

age long past away. To think that one has walked over its site before

one stone was laid upon another thereon, seems almost like a mental

hallucination.

A certain quietness of aspect and absence of overstrain after

architectural effect give the massive pile an air of great genuineness.

The irregular grouping of its many parts appears the undesigned result

of accretion growing out of the necessities of successive years. The

whole looks in its place, and as if it had long occupied it. The

material of its walls, left for the most part superficially in the

rough, has the appearance of being weather-worn. An impression of age,

too, is given by the smooth finish of the surrounding grounds and

spacious drives by which, on several sides, the building is approached,

as also by the goodly size of the well-grown oaks and other trees

through whose outstretched branches it is usually first caught sight of,

from across the picturesque ravine.

Of the still virgin condition of the surrounding soil, however, we have

some unmistakeable evidence in the ponderous granitic boulders every

here and there heaving up their grey backs above the natural greensward,

undisturbed since the day when they dropped suddenly down from the

dissolving ice-rafts that could no longer endure their weight.

Seen at a little distance, as from Yonge Street for example, the square

central tower of the University, with the cone-capped turret at its

north-east angle, rising above a pleasant horizon of trees, and outlined

against an afternoon sky, is something thoroughly English, recalling

Rugby or Warwick. On a nearer approach, this same tower, combined with

the portal below, bears a certain resemblance to the gateway of the

Abbey of Bury St. Edmunds, as figured in Palgrave's "Anglo-Saxons;" and

the elaborate and exquisite work about the recessed circular-headed

entrance enables one to realize with some degree of certainty how the

enriched front of that and other noble mediaeval structures, seen by us

now corroded and mutilated, looked when fresh from the hands that so

cunningly carved them.

In the two gigantic blind-worms, likewise, stretched in terrorem on the

sloping parapets of the steps leading to the door, benumbed, not dead;

giving in their extremities, still faint evidence of life, we have a

sermon in stone, which the brethren of a masonic guild of Wykeham's day

would readily have expounded. As we enter a house devoted to learning

and study, is it not fitting that the eye should be greeted with a

symbol of the paralyzing power of Science over Ignorance and

Superstition?

Moreover, sounds that come at stated intervals from that central tower,

make another link of sympathy with the old mother-land. Every night at

nine, "swinging slow with solemn roar," the great bell of the University

is agreeably suggestive of Christ Church, Oxford, St. Mary's, Cambridge,

and other places beyond the sea, which to the present hour give back an

echo of the ancient Curfew.

And if to this day the University building, in its exterior aspect and

accidents, is startling to those who knew its site when as yet in a

state of nature, its interior also, when traversed and explored, tends

in the same persons to produce a degree of confusion as between things

new and old; as between Canada and elsewhere. Within its walls are to be

seen appliances and conveniences and luxuries for the behoof and use of

teacher and student, unknown a few years since in many an ancient seat

of learning.

In a library of Old World aspect and arrangement, is a collection rich

in the Greek and Latin Classics, in Epigraphy and Archaeology, beyond

anything of the kind in any other collection on this continent, and

beyond what is to be met with in those departments in many a separate

College within the precincts of the ancient Universities--a pre-eminence

due to the tastes and special studies of the first president and other

early professors of the Canadian Institution.

Strange, it is, yet true that hither, as to a recognized source of

certain aid in identification and decipherment, are duly transmitted, by

cast, rubbing and photograph, the "finds" that from time to time create

such excitement and delight among epigraphists, and ethnologists, and

other minute historical investigators in the British Islands and

elsewhere.

There used to be preserved in the Old Hospital a model in cork and

card-board, of the great educational establishment to which, in the

first instance, the Avenue was expected to form an approach. It was very

curious. Had it been really followed, a large portion of the park

provided for the reception of the University would have been covered

with buildings. A multitude of edifices, isolated and varying in

magnitude, were scattered about, with gardens and ornamental grounds

interspersed. These were halls of science, lecture-rooms, laboratories,

residences for president, vice-president, professors, officials and

servants of every grade. On the widely extended premises occupied by the

proposed institution, a population was apparently expected to be found

that would, of itself, have almost sufficed to justify representation in

Parliament--a privilege the college was actually by its charter to

enjoy. We should have had in fact realized before our eyes, on a

considerable scale, a part of the dreams of Plato and More, a fragment

of Atlantis and Utopia.

When the moment arrived, however, for calling into visible being the

long contemplated seat of learning, it was found expedient to abandon

the elaborate model which had been constructed. Mr. Young, a local

architect, was directed to devise new plans. His ideas appear to have

been wholly modern. Notwithstanding the tenor of the Royal Charter,

which suggested the precedents of the old universities of "our United

Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland," wherever it should be practicable

to follow them, the architecture and arrangements customary in those

places were ignored. Girard College, Philadelphia, seems to have

inspired the new designs. However, only a minute fragment of one of the

buildings of the new plan was destined ever to exist.

The formal commencement of the abortive work took place on the 23rd of

April, 1842--a day indelibly impressed on the memory of those who

participated in the proceedings. It was one of the sunniest and

brightest of days. In the year just named it happened that so early as

St. George's day the leaves of the horse-chestnut were bursting their

glossy sheaths, and vegetation generally was in a very advanced stage.

A procession, such as had never before been seen in these parts, slowly

defiled up the Avenue to the spot where the corner-stone of the proposed

University was to be laid.

A highly wrought contemporary description of the scene is given in a

note in _Curiae Canadenses_: "The vast procession opened its ranks, and

his Excellency the Chancellor, with the President, the Lord Bishop of

Toronto, on his right, and the Senior Visitor, the Chief Justice, on his

left, proceeded on foot through the College Avenue to the University

grounds. The countless array moved forward to the sound of military

music. The sun shone out with cloudless meridian splendour; one blaze of

banners flushed upon the admiring eye.--The Governor's rich

Lord-Lieutenant's dress, the Bishop's sacerdotal robes, the Judicial

Ermine of the Chief Justice, the splendid Convocation robes of Dr.

McCaul, the gorgeous uniforms of the suite, the accoutrements of the

numerous Firemen, the national badges worn by the Office-bearers of the

different Societies, and what on such a day (St. George's) must not be

omitted, the Red Crosses on the breasts of England's congregated sons,

the grave habiliments of the Clergy and Lawyers, and the glancing lances

and waving plumes of the First Incorporated Dragoons, all formed one

moving picture of civic pomp, one glorious spectacle which can never be

remembered but with satisfaction by those who had the good fortune to

witness it. The following stanza from a Latin Ode," the note goes on to

say, "recited by Master Draper, son of the late Attorney-General, after

the ceremony, expresses in beautifully classical language the proud

occasion of all this joy and splendid pageantry:--

"Io! triumphe! flos Canadensium!

Est alma nobis mater; aemula

Britanniae haec sit nostra terra,--

Terra diu domibus negata!"

Another contemporary account adds: "As the procession drew nearer to the

site where the stone was to be laid, the 43rd Regiment lined the way,

with soldiers bearing arms, and placed on either side, at equal

intervals. The 93rd Regiment was not on duty here, but in every

direction the gallant Highlanders were scattered through the crowd, and

added by their national garb and nodding plumes to the varied beauty of

the animated scene. When the site was reached," this account says, "a

new feature was added to the interest of the ceremony. Close to the

spot, the north-east corner, where the foundation was to be deposited, a

temporary building had been erected for the Chancellor, and there,

accompanied by the officers of the University and his suite, he took his

stand. Fronting this was a kind of amphitheatre of seats, constructed

for the occasion, tier rising above tier, densely filled with ladies,

who thus commanded a view of the whole ceremony. Between this

amphitheatre and the place where the Chancellor stood, the procession

ranged itself."

The Chancellor above spoken of was the Governor General of the day, Sir

Charles Bagot, a man of noble bearing and genial, pleasant aspect. He

entered with all the more spirit into the ceremonies described, from

being himself a graduate of one of the old universities. Memories of

far-off Oxford and Christ Church would be sure to be roused amidst the

proceedings that rendered the 23rd of April, 1842, so memorable amongst

us. A brother of Sir Charles' was at the time Bishop of Oxford. In his

suite, as one of his Secretaries, was Captain Henry Bagot, of the Royal

Navy, his own son. Preceding him in the procession, bearing a large

gilded mace, was an "Esquire Bedell," like the Chancellor himself, a

Christ Church man, Mr. William Cayley, subsequently a member of the

Canadian Government.

Although breaking ground for the University building had been long

delayed, the commencement now made proved to be premature. The edifice

begun was never completed, as we have already intimated; and even in its

imperfect, fragmentary condition, it was not fated to be for any great

length of time a scene of learned labours. In 1856 its fortune was to be

converted into a Female Department for the over-crowded Provincial

Lunatic Asylum.

The educational system inaugurated in the new building in 1843 was, as

the plate enclosed in the foundation-stone finely expressed it,

"praestantissimum ad exemplar Britannicarum Universitatum." But the

"exemplar" was not, in practice, found to be, as a whole, adapted to the

genius of the Western Canadian people.

The revision of the University scheme with a view to the necessities of

Western Canada, was signalized by the erection in 1857 of a new building

on an entirely different site, and a migration to it bodily, of

president, professors and students, without departing however from the

bounds of the spacious park originally provided for the institution; and

it is remarkable that, while deviating, educationally and otherwise, in

some points, from the pattern of the ancient universities, as they were

in 1842, a nearer approach, architecturally, was made to the mediaeval

English College than any that had been thought of before. Mr.

Cumberland, the designer of the really fine and most appropriate

building in which the University at length found a resting place, was,

as is evident, a man after the heart of Wykeham and Wayneflete.

The story of our University is a part of the history of Upper Canada.

From the first foundation of the colony the idea of some such seat of

learning entered into the scheme of its organization. In 1791, before he

had yet left England for the unbroken wilderness in which his Government

was to be set up, we have General Simcoe speaking to Sir Joseph Banks,

the President of the Royal Society, of "a college of a higher class," as

desirable in the community which he was about to create. "A college of a

higher class," he says, "would be eminently useful, and would give a

tone of principles and of manners that would be of infinite support to

Government." In the same letter he remarks to Sir Joseph, "My friend the

Marquis of Buckingham has suggested that Government might allow me a sum

of money to be laid out for a Public Library, to be composed of such

books as might be useful in the colony. He instanced the Encyclopaedia,

extracts from which might occasionally be published in the newspapers.

It is possible," he adds, "private donations might be obtained, and that

it would become an object of Royal munificence."

It was naturally long before the community of Upper Canada was ripe for

a college of the character contemplated; but provision for its ultimate

existence and sustenance was made, almost from the beginning, in the

assignment to that object of a fixed and liberal portion of the public

lands of the country.

In 1819-20, Gourlay spoke of the unpreparedness of Upper Canada as yet

for a seat of learning of a high grade. Meanwhile, as a temporary

expedient, he suggested a romantic scheme. "It has been proposed," he

says, "to have a college in Upper Canada; and no doubt in time colleges

will grow up there. At present, and for a considerable period to come,

any effort to found a college would prove abortive. There could neither

be got masters nor scholars to ensure a tolerable commencement for ten

years to come; and a feeble beginning might beget a feeble race of

teachers and pupils. In the United States," he continued, "academies

and colleges, though fast improving, are yet but raw; and greatly

inferior to those in Britain, generally speaking. Twenty-five lads sent

annually at public charge from Upper Canada to British Universities,

would draw after them many more. The youths themselves, generally, would

become desirous of making a voyage in quest of learning.--Crossing the

ocean on such an errand would elevate their ideas, and stir them up to

extraordinary exertions. They would become finished preachers, lawyers,

physicians, merchants; and, returning to their native country, would

repay in wisdom what was expended in goodness and liberality. What more

especially invites the adoption of such a scheme is the amiable and

affectionate connection which it would tend to establish between Canada

and Britain. But it will not do at present to follow out the idea."

Gourlay's prediction that "in time colleges will grow up there" has been

speedily verified. The town especially, of which in its infant state he

spoke in such terms of contempt, has been so prolific of colleges that

it is now become a kind of Salamanca for the country at large; a place

of resort for students from all parts. It is well probably for Canada

that the scheme of drafting a batch of young students periodically to

the old country, was not adopted. Canada would thereby possibly, on the

one hand, have lost the services of some of the cleverest of her sons,

who, on obtaining academic distinction would have preferred to remain in

the mother country, entering on one or other of the public careers to

which academic distinction there opens the ready path; and, on the other

hand, she should, in many an instance, it is to be feared, have received

back her sons just unfitted, in temper and habit, for life under

matter-of-fact colonial conditions.

In the original planting of the Avenue, up whose fine vista we have been

gazing, the mistake was committed of imitating nature too closely.

Numerous trees and shrubs of different kinds and habits were mingled

together as they are usually to be seen in a wild primitive wood; and

thus the growth and fair development of all were hindered. The

horse-chestnuts alone should have been relied on to give character to

the Avenue; and of these there should have been on each side a double

row, with a promenade for pedestrians underneath, after the manner of

the great walks in the public parks of the old towns of Europe.

[Illustration]

XXII.

QUEEN STREET--FROM THE COLLEGE AVENUE TO BROCK STREET AND SPADINA

AVENUE.

Pursuing our way now westward from the Avenue leading to the University,

we pass the Powell park-lot, on which was, up to recent times, the

family vault of the Powells, descendants of the Chief Justice. The whole

property was named by the fancy of the first possessor, Caer-Howell,

Castle Howell, in allusion to the mythic Hoel, to whom all ap-Hoels

trace their origin. Dummer Street, which opens northward a little

further on, retains, as we have said, the second baptismal name of Chief

Justice Powell.

Beverley House and its surroundings, on the side opposite Caer Howell

estate, recall one whose name and memory must repeatedly recur in every

narrative of our later Canadian history, Sir John Robinson.--This was

the residence temporarily of Poulett Thomson, afterwards Lord Sydenham,

while present in Toronto as Governor-General of the Canadas in 1839-40.

A kitchen on a large scale which he caused to be built on the premises

of Beverley House, is supposed to have been an auxiliary, indirectly, in

getting the Union measure through the Upper Canada Parliament. In a

letter to a friend, written at Montreal in 1840, he gives a sketch of

his every-day life: it describes equally well the daily distribution of

his time here in Toronto. "Work in my room," he says, "till three

o'clock; a ride with my aide-de-camp till five; work again till dinner;

at dinner till nine; and work again till early next morning. This is my

daily routine. My dinners last till ten, when I have company, which is

about three times a week; except one night in the week, when I receive

about 150 people."

His policy was, as we know, very successful. Of the state of things at

Toronto, and in Upper Canada generally, after the Union measure had been

pushed through, he writes to a friend thus: "I have prorogued my

Parliament," he says, "and I send you my Speech. Never was such

unanimity! When the Speaker read it in the Commons, after the

prorogation, they gave me three cheers, in which even the ultras united.

In fact, as the matter stands now, the Province is in a state of peace

and harmony which, three months ago, I thought was utterly hopeless."

In a private letter of the following year (1841), he alludes to his

influence in these terms: "I am in the midst," he says, "of the bustle

attending the opening of the Session, and have, besides, a ministerial

'crisis' on my hands. The latter I shall get through triumphantly,

unless my _wand_, as they call it here, has lost all power over the

members, which I do not believe to be the case." This was written at

Kingston, where, it will be remembered, the seat of Government was

established for a short time after the union of Upper and Lower Canada.

Through Poulett Thomson, Toronto for a few months and to the extent of

one-half, was the seat of a modern feudal barony. On being elevated to

the peerage, the Governor-General, who had carried the Union, was

created Baron Sydenham of Sydenham in Kent and Toronto in Canada.

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