Orville Dewey, 1794-1882, a well known Unitarian clergyman and author, was
born in Sheffield, Massachusetts, graduated with distinction at Williams
College in 1814, and afterward studied theology at Andover. For a while he
was assistant to Dr. W. E. Channing in Boston, and later, was a pastor in
New Bedford, New York City, and Boston. He made two or three voyages to
Europe, and published accounts of his travels.
"Discourses on Human Life," "Discourses on the Nature of Religion,"
"Discourses on Commerce and Business," are among his published works. His
writings are both philosophical and practical; and, as a preacher, he was
esteemed original, earnest, and impressive.
###
On the eighth of November, from the high land, about fourteen miles
distant, I first saw Rome; and although there is something very
unfavorable to impression in the expectation that you are to be greatly
impressed, or that you ought to be, or that such is the fashion; yet Rome
is too mighty a name to be withstood by such or any other influences. Let
you come upon that hill in what mood you may, the scene will lay hold upon
you as with the hand of a giant. I scarcely know how to describe the
impression, but it seemed to me as if something strong and stately, like
the slow and majestic march of a mighty whirlwind, swept around those
eternal towers; the storms of time, that had prostrated the proudest
monuments of the world, seemed to have left their vibrations in the still
and solemn air; ages of history passed before me; the mighty procession of
nations, kings, consuls, emperors, empires, and generations had passed
over that sublime theater. The fire, the storm, the earthquake, had gone
by; but there was yet left the still, small voice like that at which the
prophet "wrapped his face in his mantle."
I went to see the Colosseum by moonlight. It is the monarch, the majesty
of all ruins; there is nothing like it. All the associations of the place,
too, give it the most impressive character. When you enter within this
stupendous circle of ruinous walls and arches, and grand terraces of
masonry, rising one above another, you stand upon the arena of the old
gladiatorial combats and Christian martyrdom; and as you lift your eyes to
the vast amphitheater, you meet, in imagination, the eyes of a hundred
thousand Romans, assembled to witness these bloody spectacles. What a
multitude and mighty array of human beings; and how little do we know in
modern times of great assemblies! One, two, and three, and, at its last
enlargement by Constantine, more than three hundred thousand persons could
be seated in the Circus Maximus!
But to return to the Colosseum; we went up under the conduct of a guide
upon the walls and terraces, or embankments, which supported the ranges of
seats. The seats have long since disappeared; and grass overgrows the
spots where the pride, and power, and wealth, and beauty of Rome sat down
to its barbarous entertainments. What thronging life was here then! What
voices, what greetings, what hurrying footsteps upon the staircases of the
eighty arches of entrance! And now, as we picked our way carefully through
the decayed passages, or cautiously ascended some moldering flight of
steps, or stood by the lonely walls--ourselves silent, and, for a wonder,
the guide silent, too--there was no sound here but of the bat, and none
came from without but the roll of a distant carriage, or the convent bell
from the summit of the neighboring Esquiline.
It is scarcely possible to describe the effect of moonlight upon this
ruin. Through a hundred lonely arches and blackened passageways it
streamed in, pure, bright, soft, lambent, and yet distinct and clear, as
if it came there at once to reveal, and cheer, and pity the mighty
desolation. But if the Colosseum is a mournful and desolate spectacle as
seen from within--without, and especially on the side which is in best
preservation, it is glorious. We passed around it; and, as we looked
upward, the moon shining through its arches, from the opposite side, it
appeared as if it were the coronet of the heavens, so vast was it--or like
a glorious crown upon the brow of night.
I feel that I do not and can not describe this mighty ruin. I can only say
that I came away paralyzed, and as passive as a child. A soldier stretched
out his hand for "un dona," as we passed the guard; and when my companion
said I did wrong to give, I told him that I should have given my cloak, if
the man had asked it. Would you break any spell that worldly feeling or
selfish sorrow may have spread over your mind, go and see the Colosseum by
moonlight.
NOTES.--The Colosseum (pro. Col-os-se'um) was commenced by the Roman
emperor Vespasian, and was completed by Titus, his son, 79 A.D. Its
construction occupied but three years, notwithstanding its size; a great
part of its walls are standing today.
The Circus Maximus was an amphitheater built by Tarquin the Elder about
600 B. C.
Constantine. See note on page 175.
The Esquiline is one of the seven hills upon which Rome is built. Un
dona, an Italian phrase meaning a gift or alms.