that the building was erected by the famous Governor Marillac is
unfounded. It is possible, however, that tradition, according to which
Marillac sheltered Marie de Médicis there, after her flight from Paris,
is founded on fact.
It is a fine structure in the Medicis style. The façade which overlooks
the garden resembles that of the Luxembourg in Paris in some of its
lines.
_At the side of the Hôtel-de-Ville, at No. 19, is the house of M.
Clément._
[Illustration: MAIN ENTRANCE (REBUILT) TO THE ABBEY OF ST. VANNE, IN
THE COURT OF NO. 19 RUE DE L’HÔTEL-DE-VILLE]
A learned amateur, Monsieur Clément, who was killed during the
bombardments of 1916, had collected a considerable number of fragments
of the Abbey of St. Vanne and rebuilt the principal doorway of the
latter (_see p. 52_) in the courtyard of his house. The famous door
of the Capitulary Room, described and drawn by Viollet-le-Duc, was of
curious 13th-century design. The lintel of the tympanum was ornamented
with foliage, which is an interesting peculiarity, as the sculptural
decoration of the tympanums of doors was very rare at that time in
civil architecture.
[Illustration: RUINS IN THE RUE MAZEL AND RUE DU ST. ESPRIT.]
_Return to the Place Chevert, cross the St. Croix Bridge, and go to
the Place d’Armes_ via _the Place and Rue Mazel_, whose houses are in
ruins.
[Illustration: THE PRINCERIE IN 1916, RUE DE LA BELLE-VIERGE, NOS. 16
AND 18 (_see p.40_).]
Turn to the left into the Rue St. Pierre. In the Place d’Armes take the
Rue de la Belle-Vierge as far as the =Hôtel de la Princerie=, former
residence of the “primicerius,” first archdeacon of the Cathedral.
Rebuilt in 1525, it has been divided in recent times into two houses,
Nos. 16 and 18. While the façade of No. 18 was modern, that of No. 16,
with its window-gratings, retained its ancient aspect. The courtyard
was ornamented on two of its sides with two-storied Renaissance
galleries (_hist. mon._). Although of 16th-century construction,
the decoration of this cloister was inspired by the Middle Age or
Transition Period (_note the crocketted capitals of the pillars and the
bases of the latter_).
[Illustration: THE PRINCERIE CLOISTER (_hist. mon._) BEFORE THE WAR.]
The house was destroyed by the bombardments, and the cloister is almost
entirely in ruins.
[Illustration: THE PRINCERIE CLOISTER IN 1916.]
The street took its name from a statue of the Virgin on the monumental
entrance-gate of the deanery.
[Illustration: AN OBSERVATION-POST IN MAGDELEINE SQUARE (1916).]
_Take the Rue de la Magdeleine on the left, beyond the deanery, as far
as the_ =Place de la Magdeleine=.
At No. 2 of this square is an early 16th-century house (sometimes
called the “Maison de Jules II.”), with a carved triangular pediment
supported by two pillars. Built after the decease of Pope Julius II.,
it was probably erected on the site of the house where he lived while
still Cardinal Julian de la Rovère.
_At No. 19 of the square, cross the house in ruins to a kind of
garden-terrace at the back_, built on the site of the old ramparts,
vestiges of which are still visible. Fine view of the ruins in the Rues
Mazel, Châtel and St. Esprit.
_Take the Rues Châtel and Belle-Vierge to the_ =Cathedral= (_see
Itinerary, p. 31_).
[Illustration: RUINS IN THE RUE CHÂTEL, SEEN FROM THE CATHEDRAL (1916).]
THE CATHEDRAL (_hist. mon._)
The Cathedral of Verdun, like that of Angers, was one of the first
French churches to be dedicated to the Virgin. In the 7th or 8th
centuries its patronal festival was The Nativity, but this was changed
to The Assumption at the beginning of the 19th century.
It is an ancient edifice, but has often been restored and altered. The
original 5th-century church, which it replaced, was built on the ruins
of a Roman _castrum_, like those of Rheims, Metz and Trèves.
The Cathedral was consecrated in 1147 by Pope Eugenius III., assisted
by eighteen cardinals and St. Bernard. The plans were made by the
Rhenish architect Garin, and, contrarily to French practice, included
two transepts and two apses. With its four similar spires, two on each
choir, it looked, according to a popular saying, like a “bahut” (chest
of drawers on legs), turned upside down.
The fire of 1755 caused important alterations to be made which, without
suppressing the main lines of the Cathedral, disfigured the interior.
These alterations explain the lack of harmony in the edifice.
The four Roman towers with spires disappeared after 1755. Only the two
western towers were replaced by the present large ones.
The Cathedral did not greatly suffer from the bombardment of 1916,
during the German offensive, but that of April–May, 1917, damaged it
very seriously. The vaults were either pierced or brought down, and
the roof destroyed. Near the apsis a big shell tore open the ground,
bringing to light an unknown subterranean passage or crypt.
[Illustration: VERDUN SEEN FROM ONE OF THE CATHEDRAL TOWERS.
In the foreground: Roof of nave, east transept, and great choir of
Cathedral.
In the middle-ground: The Meuse; on the left, Chaussée Gate; in the
middle, Military Club.
In the background: Line of trees marking the ramparts; behind,
Belleville Village (on the left) and the Pavé Faubourg.
On the horizon: Belleville Hills.]
_The tourist, arriving at the Place de la Cathédrale_, via _the Rue de
la Belle-Vierge (see Itinerary, p. 31), finds himself in front of the
North Façade (photo opposite)_.
[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL.
In the middle: The towers around the old choir.
On the left: The North Front and Main Doorway.
On the right: Entrance to Margueritte College, leading to the Bishop’s
Palace and the Cloister (_see pp. 49–51_).]
_In the middle_ is the entrance portal; _on the right_, the Western
Transept and the Towers enclosing the remarkable, square-shaped old
Choir; _on the left_, the Eastern Transept and polygonal apsis of the
Great Choir (_photo below_).
_In front of the Towers, on the right of this photograph, is the_
entrance to Margueritte College, _giving access to the_ Bishop’s Palace
_and the_ Cloister (_see pp. 49–51_).
The Entrance Portal
(_North Front_)
The Gable and Buttresses of the portal are 13th century. Its secular
ornamentation replaced, in the 18th century, Gothic statues, which were
destroyed as uncouth.
The portal is placed between two chapels; that on the right (16th
century) is called “The Chaplet,” on account of the chaplets carved on
the buttresses.
The Towers
The present bells weigh four and six tons respectively and date from
1756. They were so cast as to have the same proportions and tones as
those of the St. Germain-des-Prés Church in Paris.
The Apse of the Great Choir
The basement is the remains of a Roman apse. The upper portion dates
from the end of the 14th century.
[Illustration: APSIS OF THE GREAT CHOIR, SEEN FROM THE BANKS OF THE
MEUSE (_see p. 34_).]
The bas-reliefs are Roman carvings, re-utilised in the Gothic
buttresses. _From right to left_ they represent _Adam and Eve_; the
_Annunciation_ (the Virgin and Angel are separated by a tree, whose
shape recalls the Tree of Life on the Chaldean cylinders reproduced on
the cloth-stuffs exported from Byzantium); _Cain and Abel (through an
error in perspective, frequently to be found in Egyptian art, the bust
and trunk of the two patriarchs are shown in profile, whilst the feet
are facing frontwards)_; an unknown bishop.
[Illustration: THE GREAT NAVE
In the background: The old choir and organ-loft (the organs had been
removed). In the foreground: The marble balustrade of the Great Choir
protected by sandbags]
The Great Nave and two Choirs
The Great Nave was very seriously damaged by the bombardments. Several
bays of the vaulting fell in, leaving bare the timber-work of the roof
in ruins.
_On entering the Cathedral by the Central Portal in the North Front
(see p. 43)_ the old Choir _(photos, p. 44) is on the right, and the_
Great Choir with ciborium _(p. 45) on the left_.
[Illustration: THE GREAT NAVE BEFORE THE WAR
In the background: The Old Choir and the Great Organ. In the
foreground: The balustrade of the Great Choir]
[Illustration: THE GREAT NAVE SEEN FROM THE OLD CHOIR
In the background: The Great Choir and the Ciborium. The ruined vaults
have bared the damaged framework of the roof]
The old square choir is intersected by the great organ, as at Albi.
The decoration of the Great Choir dates from 1760. The marble
balustrade (_see p. 44_) is a copy of that in the Jardin du Luxembourg,
Paris, and replaced the old lateral walls and rood-loft. The gilded
canopy, which is a transformation of the antique ciborium of the
Gallo-Roman churches, is supported by four twisted columns of grey
marble. It is a copy of that of St. Peter’s at Rome. Behind it are
eighty-six stalls in two superposed rows, and carved panelling (_see p.
46_).
[Illustration: THE CIBORIUM
(The Ciborium was the canopy supported by columns which covered the
altars in the early Christian basilicas.)]
[Illustration: THE STALLS AND WOODWORK OF THE GREAT CHOIR]
=Stalls and Woodwork of the Great Choir.=—Classed as an historical
monument in 1905, this Rococo-style woodwork by Lacour of Toul is
remarkable for its somewhat secular elegance and fine finish. During
the bombardment of Verdun in 1916–1918 it was taken down and put in a
place of safety.
[Illustration: THE SHRINE OF ST. SAINTIN
Photographed with the woodwork of the Great Choir at the Exhibition of
the Evacuated Art Treasures held in Paris]
=St. Saintin’s Shrine.=—This 14th-century shrine contains the relics of
the first bishop of Verdun, and is said to represent the ancient church
of the Premonstrants of St. Paul.
[Illustration]
The South Aisle and Holy Sacrament Chapel
The numerous collateral chapels are 14th, 15th and 16th century. The
most interesting is that of the Holy Sacrament. It was finished in
1402, and is Radial-Gothic in style.
In the neighbouring transept there was formerly a “puits” (well), which
offended Louis XIV. when he visited the Cathedral in 1687. The Chapter
had it filled up and covered with a stone, on which was carved the
letter “P.”
The Chapel of the Virgin contains an interesting mutilated monument to
Archdeacon Wassebourg, carved in the 16th century to perpetuate the
true image of Our Lady of Verdun seated and crowned.
[Illustration: MONUMENT TO ARCHDEACON WASSEBOURG. CHAPEL OF THE VIRGIN]
[Illustration: UPPER PORTION OF DOOR IN OLD ROMAN APSE, REMOVED TO THE
VESTRY.]
[Illustration: ROMAN CAPITAL OF THE GREAT CRYPT FILLED IN IN 1755,
EXCEPT TWO BAYS DECORATED WITH PAINTINGS.]
[Illustration: THE LAST JUDGMENT. PAINTING ON THE VAULT OF THE CRYPT.]
_Enter the courtyard of the Bishop’s Palace by the door of the
Margueritte College (see p. 43). The Seminary seen in the background of
the photo has been completely destroyed since 1916. The door with steps
in front led formerly to a staircase descending to the Cloister. In
May, 1919, this staircase was easily accessible, in spite of the débris
all around._
[Illustration: COURTYARD OF THE BISHOP’S PALACE AND THE CATHEDRAL IN
1916]
The Bishop’s Palace
This fine spacious building was erected in 1725–1755 from the plans of
_Robert de Cotte_. It has two terraces and a garden, with a view over
the whole town. Under the First Empire it was a senatorial palace.
At the time of the separation of the Church from the State it was
turned into a =museum=. The latter contains a fine collection of medals
and coins, also numerous fragments of the ancient Abbey of St. Vanne,
which was inside the Citadel. These fragments include the remains of a
Pagan altar, a Corinthian capital with Barbarian ornamentation, and an
ivory comb with inscriptions, said to have been given by Emperor
St. Henri to the Abbot of St. Vanne in 1024.
[Illustration: THE BISHOP’S PALACE. FAÇADE LOOKING ON THE COURTYARD AND
ENTRANCE TO THE MUSEUM.]
[Illustration: THE CLOISTER
On the left: Aisle of the Cathedral (_see p. 47_) and the Transept with
ruined roof. In the background: The East Gallery of the Cloister]
The Cloister (_Hist. Mon._ 13th and 14th centuries)
_The door of Margueritte College and the courtyard of the Bishop’s
Palace lead to the Cloister (see photos, pp. 43 and 49)._
Although Gothic in structure, parts of the carved decorative work
announced the coming Renaissance (helmeted warriors and antique
personages crowned with laurels).
Some of the keystones of the vaulting, representing bloated, bearded
faces, are said to be caricatures of the canons of the Cathedral, made
by the workmen who built the cloister, to revenge themselves for the
Church’s stinginess.
[Illustration: THE WEST GALLERY IN WHICH THE STAIRCASE LEADING TO THE
CLOISTER OPENS OUT (1914)
The arrangement of the blind windows against the walls is very rarely
met with]
[Illustration: THE CLOISTER SEEN FROM ONE OF THE CATHEDRAL TOWERS
In the background: the East Gallery. On the right the Seminary and
South Gallery in ruins. In the town is seen St. Saviour’s Church
against the green background of the fortifications]
The heavy Seminary buildings, erected on two of the galleries, are 19th
century. They were almost entirely destroyed by the bombardments.
[Illustration: THE SOUTH GALLERY OF THE CLOISTER BEFORE THE WAR
Its present state is shown in the above photograph]
_On leaving the Cathedral, the tourist arrives almost immediately at
the small Place Châtel, the highest point of the town. Take, the Rue
Châtel to the_ =Châtel Gate=.
[Illustration: CHÂTEL GATE. BEHIND THE CATHEDRAL.]
From the ancient “Fermeté” rampart, only this machicolated gate
(formerly called “Champenoise”) is visible near the small “Place
Châtel.”
_On leaving the Châtel Gate, go down the Rue des Hauts Fins to the
corner of the_ Rue Montgaud: Blockhouse for four machine-guns to defend
the town.
Cross the Esplanade de la Roche to the =Citadelle=.
THE CITADELLE
From the Esplanade de la Roche, the arrangement of which dates from
1780–1783, there is a fine view of the Meuse valley and the prairies
known as =Pré-l’Evêque=.
The entrance to the =Citadelle= opens on the Esplanade de la Roche,
while the Citadelle proper occupies the site of the ancient =Abbey=
and =Church of St. Vanne=, erected in the Merovingian Period and 15th
century on the hill where, in the days of Clovis, the Dragon with
poisoned breath was said to live. According to the legend St. Vanne
first tamed the dragon, then led it to the River Meuse, where it was
drowned.
[Illustration: THE CITADEL BUILDINGS AFTER THE BOMBARDMENTS OF 1916
(_Photographed in 1917_)]
The first Citadelle was begun in 1552, continued under Henri IV. by
Errard, and finished in 1630 under Governor Marillac. The second was
the work of Vauban (1670–1682). The church of St. Vanne was included
and preserved in both citadelles, but was later pulled down (1831–1835)
by order of the Military Authorities. The old Gothic cloister was
spared and turned into barracks in 1835. It was destroyed by the German
bombardment during the siege of 1870. Of the Abbey, only a square Roman
Tower of the 11th century remains (_see photo below_).
[Illustration: THE CITADEL AND ST. VANNE TOWER, WITH WIRELESS ANTENNA.]
[Illustration: THE CITADEL RAMPARTS AND NEUVE GATE.
(_Entrance to the town by the G. C. 34, continued by the Rue de Rû. See
coloured plan between pp. 30 and 31._)]
[Illustration: DORMITORY IN THE CASEMATES.]
The Citadel during the War
During the late War, the Citadelle was often a target for the German
heavy guns, but its deep underground vaults provided secure shelter for
the population before the general evacuation, as also for the public
services and reinforcements. Most of the regiments which took part in
the battles of 1916 passed through the Citadelle.
It was in one of the casemates that the President of France, M.
Poincaré, handed to the Municipal Authorities of Verdun, on September
13th, 1916, the decorations conferred on that City by the Chiefs of
State of the Allied countries (_see p. 30_).
[Illustration: CO-OPERATIVE CANTEEN IN THE CITADEL.]
_On leaving the Citadelle, turn to the right immediately after the
entrance and follow the glacis which passes underneath the terraces of
the Bishop’s Palace. After a sharp turning near the Manutention, the
tourist arrives at the_ =Rue de Rû=.
_Take the latter as far as the_ =Rue des Gros-Degrés=, one of the most
picturesque streets of Old Verdun, which also suffered greatly from the
German bombardment. It is composed of eighty steps, divided into seven
unequal flights, with a hand-rail erected in 1595. _The photograph
opposite was taken from the bottom of the stairs._
[Illustration: THE RUE DES GROS-DEGRÉS.]
_Take on the right the Rue du Pont des Augustins and cross the curious
canal_ of the same name (_photo below_) to visit the Lower Town, which
is crowded with picturesque old streets and narrow bridges over the
winding canals.
[Illustration: THE CANAL DES AUGUSTINS.]
_Return to the_ =Place Mazel=.
_If the tourist has time, he may go from here to the_ =St. Victor
Gate=, _situated at the exit of Verdun, in the direction of Metz,
Nancy, Toul, and Commercy (see p. 56, and plan between pp. 30 and 31)_.
[Illustration: ST. VICTOR’S GATE]
From the Place Mazel to St. Victor’s Gate
(_See plan between pp. 30 and 31_)
_Cross the St. Croix bridge, take the Rue de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, then the
Rue St. Sauveur, in which is the_ =Hospice St. Catherine=.
The =Hospice St. Catherine= was the birthplace of Bishop St. Airy.
According to tradition the Bishop, on receiving a visit from
Childebert II., caused his last barrel of wine to be brought in. Giving
thanks, he was miraculously able to satisfy the deep-drinking Franks
for several days. (_This legend is probably connected with the planting
of the vineyards in the region of Verdun._)
_Opposite the Church of St. Catherine is the_ colonaded front of the
former =Congrégation Notre-Dame Monastery=, now a school.
_Further on are the_ =Church of St. Victor=, Rustic-Gothic in style,
_and the_ =Gate= of the same name (_photo above_).
_Stairs on the right of St. Victor’s Gate lead to the_ Citadelle
Curtain 16, whence there is a fine view of the city.
[Illustration: THE DOORWAY OF THE CONGRÉGATION NOTRE-DAME (63 RUE DE
L’HÔTEL-DE-VILLE)]
VISIT TO THE BATTLEFIELD
The following Itinerary is divided into two parts:
1. The right bank of the Meuse, including the forts (Tavannes,
Souville, Vaux and Douaumont). _See pp. 57–87._
2. The left bank of the Meuse, including Cumières, Mort-Homme, Hill 304
and Avocourt. _See pp. 88–111._
1st ITINERARY: THE RIGHT BANK OF THE MEUSE AND THE FORTS
[Illustration]
[Illustration: LEAVING VERDUN BY THE CHAUSSÉE GATE (_see p. 34_).]
I.—From Verdun to Tavannes Fort
_Leave Verdun by the Chaussée Gate, cross the Meuse and the fortified
enclosure, and take the Rue d’Etain_ (R. N. 18) _on the left. Go up
the Faubourg Pavé._ This road, used by the relief troops in the
Vaux-Douaumont sector, was heavily and continually shelled until Verdun
was finally cleared in December, 1916.
[Illustration: MILITARY CEMETERY AT THE EXIT OF THE FAUBOURG PAVÉ.]
[Illustration: Two-page map of the battlefield.]
[Illustration: THE INTERIOR OF TAVANNES FORT]
_At the side of the Municipal Cemetery_ (_on the left_) is a Military
Cemetery containing more than 5,000 graves (_photo, p. 58_).
_Follow_ N. 18 _for about six kilometers, then turn to the left into
the road leading to_ =Tavannes Fort=, _situated about a kilometer from
the main road_.
=Tavannes Fort= dominates the ground behind the Vaux-Souville line and
the Etain-Verdun road. The Germans, in their effort to reach Souville,
sought by frequent bombardments to destroy the fort which resisted
stubbornly, but on May 7th a 17-inch shell destroyed one of the arches
and caused serious damage.
Near the fort, on the Verdun-Etain railway, is the long =Tavannes
Tunnel=.
Although the entrances were constantly shelled by enemy artillery, it
was used as a shelter for the reserves of the Vaux-Souville sector and
as a munitions depot. Bunks were fitted up in three superimposed rows,
300 to 450 feet in length, and separated by spaces, where numerous
other troops slept as they could on the ground. Despite the ventilating
shafts, the air remained foul, owing to the perspiration of the men and
the rudimentary sanitary arrangements. To complete the misery of the
men, a grenade depot blew up on the night of September 4th, causing
many victims.
[Illustration: THE SOUTHERN MOAT OF TAVANNES FORT]
[Illustration: THE CAR COMING FROM TAVANNES FORT TAKES THE ROAD ON THE
RIGHT TO VAUX FORT. THAT ON THE LEFT LEADS TO SOUVILLE FORT]
II.—From Tavannes Fort to Vaux Fort
_Return to the road by which the fort was reached_ (I.C.2) _and turn
into it on the right. About 300 yards further on, at the fork (see
photo above), take the right-hand road (the other leads to Souville
Fort)._ On the left is the ravine which precedes the entrance to
Tavannes Tunnel. At first the road rises, then dips down to Bourvaux
Ravine. (_On the right the road to_ Bourvaux Battery _is visible_.)
The road zig-zags, then scales Hill 349, leading to Vaux Fort, after
crossing through the woods of La Laufée and Chenois, of which only a
few broken, branchless trunks remain.
=Chenois and Laufée Woods and the Damloup Battery.=—Before and after
the fall of Vaux Fort, these positions were often attacked by the
Germans, especially in June, July and September, 1916.
[Illustration: THE ROAD TO VAUX FORT (_the latter is in the
background_).]
From June 2nd to 4th the Damloup battery and its approaches, defended
by units of the 142nd and 52nd Line Regiments, repulsed sharp German
attacks and prevented the enemy from debouching from Damloup. The
defence of the battery lasted till July 2nd, the defenders, in
constantly diminishing numbers, being attacked and bombarded without
intermission. On July 3rd a German attack, preceded by an intense
bombardment, resulted in the capture at about 1 p.m. of the greater
part of the battery, but the remnant of a French company held its
ground in the southern part of the work. At 3 p.m. only fifty men of
the company were left; at 8 p.m. twenty, but still they hung on until
an hour later they were reinforced by another company, which succeeded
in crossing the barrage. At two o’clock next morning the French
repulsed the enemy at the point of the bayonet and recaptured the
entire battery.
[Illustration: LAUFÉE WOOD IN 1917]
After losing it on July 12th, the French retook the battery in a
bayonet charge on October 24th, while General Lardemelle’s division
recaptured Chenois Wood (_see p. 19_).
[Illustration: CHENOIS WOOD IN 1917. VAUX FORT IS IN THE BACKGROUND.]
[Illustration: VAUX FORT IN 1916 (_photographed from aeroplane_).]
=Vaux Fort.=—Built of masonry about the year 1880, afterwards of
concrete, and finally of reinforced concrete, the fort was only
completed in 1911. Smaller and less powerful than Douaumont Fort, it
dominates the plateau to the south of Vaux Ravine and the reverse side
of Douaumont Plateau. Therein lies its importance. On March 9th Germany
announced triumphantly to the world that the VIth and XIXth reserve
regiments of Posen had “taken by assault the armoured Fort of Vaux, as
well as numerous neighbouring fortifications.”
This communiqué was untrue. Two battalions of the XIXth regiment of
Posen had in reality gained a footing on Vaux Hill on March 9th, but
they were mown down at close range by French fire. As a matter of fact,
three months of uninterrupted costly effort were necessary before the
Germans were able to enter Vaux Fort.
[Illustration: GERMAN ADVANCE ON MARCH 8 AND 9, 1916.]