inartistic structure of red sandstone, presided over by the monster wife
of Siva, the Goddess Kali, who is seated on an interior shrine and
almost terrifies the beholder by her demoniacal smile, her neck being
wreathed with skulls. The Goddess of Blood demands a daily sacrifice,
usually a goat and sometimes even a buffalo. At least twenty
terrible-looking priests were in attendance upon her when we arrived and
were ready to slay the inoffensive goat if money was forthcoming. We,
however, declined to witness such a spectacle. Monkeys, disgustingly old
and fat, were everywhere, and filled large trees surrounding the temple,
two hundred at least being visible. Beggars, mendicants, and priests
were abundantly in evidence.
In an attempt to throw some small coins to some children, I was nearly
crushed, the crowd closing around me and separating me from my party,
until a tall Brahman priest with a huge stick checked the mob and I
escaped, to be admonished by the Director of the party, who declared
that I must never repeat the experiment, however much my sympathies
might be drawn upon by the scenes that impressed me.
[Illustration: _Bathing ghat, Benares_]
[Illustration: _Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur_]
The following morning we proceeded at 7 A.M. to the scene of all others
in Benares, the bathing ghats. These are steps leading down from the
plateau to the river on the banks of the Ganges and extending a distance
of nearly three miles. Seated in a native small boat, we sailed
leisurely up and down for hours, watching the unusual spectacle. The
Brahman priests were everywhere (there being thirty thousand in Benares
who live on the offerings of the pilgrims), some seated under
umbrella-like canopies, some under tents, others bathing, and others
performing certain sacred offices for the devotees who had come hither
in state, on elephants or camels, by train or on foot, all intent on
securing an increase of religious zeal. The crowds bathing in the sacred
river are a continuous spectacle. There are piers built out into the
stream for convenience, filled with pilgrims of every hue and variety of
dress and undress, some simply wearing the loin cloth, which startled us
at first, but now seemed the legitimate outcome of a lean purse and a
hot climate.
In addition, there is a continuous refrain of voices in solemn
supplication to one or more of the many thousands of Hindu gods, for it
has been stated that there are two hundred thousand divinities in India.
At one point there is a burning ghat, and one morning we witnessed the
preparation for two cremations, one of a poor man and the other of the
wife of a Maharaja. The two ceremonies differed little, except that the
wood for the funeral pile of one cost a mere pittance, while the
sandalwood for the latter cost six hundred rupees. The corpse is carried
on a small litter, or bier, made of bamboo sticks (a man is robed in
white and a woman in red), and deposited in the Ganges, feet foremost;
care is taken that the whole body be immersed in order that purification
may be complete. The relatives arrange the pile of wood, about eight
logs being required. Then the body is transferred to the pyre, and the
torch is applied by one of the family, the others sitting solemnly
around in a circle. When consumed, the ashes are scattered in the river
Ganges. It is a gruesome spectacle, however much it may be in the
interest of sanitary science; but less so to me, who had witnessed the
distribution of the bodies at the Towers of Silence in Bombay.
It will be seen that the principal commodity in Benares is holiness; but
there is one creditable industry, namely, the manufacture of brass.
Several shops were visited, but we liked the modern styles less than the
old Benares brass with which we were familiar.
One thought was uppermost while in Benares; I had pondered over it
before in our visit to India. It was that with the masses Hinduism
to-day means superstition and idolatry, in spite of the fact that the
earlier teaching was of a pure character. That the cultivated Hindus
accept the practices and the priesthood is a mystery as subtle as the
law of caste or the iron law of custom. It is a depressing thought, and
causes a profound feeling of thankfulness that Providence placed us in a
fairer land.
[Illustration: _The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares_]
The missionary effort of England, America, and other countries has for
years been directed toward changing the condition of the masses, but the
law of caste is such that, to use a set phrase, if a man become a
Christian, he is ostracized, even by the members of his own family,
unless they too follow his example. He is also ostracized as regards any
business he may follow, and the sacrifice he is forced to undergo seems
almost too great for human endurance. Still, according to missionary
reports, this sacrifice is frequently made, which is equivalent to true
heroism. Naturally, the progress of proselyting is slower in India than
in any other country of the Orient, but it is the consensus of opinion
that a greater extension of hospitals in charge of so-termed
missionaries and a greater extension of schools for the young are the
leaven that will work satisfactory results in the future. Another
reassuring sign is the establishment of the Central Hindu College at
Benares by Mrs. A.B. Besant, the Theosophist. This is intended to
elevate the Hindu youth, combining religious and moral education with
mental and athletic development. We saw only the exterior of the
building.
Four miles from Benares, at the site of the old Benares, called Sarnath,
is a most interesting ancient monument known as the Tope of Sarnath. It
is the best preserved of any in Bengal. It was erected in Deer Park to
mark the spot sanctified by the presence of Buddha. It was explored in
1835 and found to be a stupa; but containing no relics, it was evidently
intended to indicate the spot where Buddha first assumed his mission as
a teacher. The tope consists of a stone basement ninety-three feet in
diameter and solidly built of stone. Above the stone is brickwork rising
to a height of one hundred and twenty feet from the plain. The lower
story has niches evidently intended for a figure of Buddha, and below
this is a band of sculptured ornaments of great beauty; it is thought
from the evidences of ornamentation that in date it corresponds to the
best period of Delhi. There is an interesting temple in the vicinity,
and there formerly was a large Buddhist monastery. One also finds acres
of mounds and debris indicating a large Buddhist foundation in the days
when Buddha reigned supreme.
We left Benares for Darjeeling the evening of December 27th, and the
prospect of a glimpse of mountain scenery in the famed Himalaya
foothills, eight thousand feet above the sea, was exhilarating after the
depressing scenes behind us.
* * * * *
SILIGURI, _December 28th_: We arrived at Siliguri early the following
morning, December 28th, and were at once transferred to the Darjeeling
and Himalayan Railway (two-foot gauge with open cars), a triumph of
engineering skill on account of the sudden and wonderful curves which
continue from the beginning to the end and cause the famous Horseshoe
Curve of the Pennsylvania Railway to sink into insignificance. The
ride was exciting, as every bend revealed something new and startling.
Leaving the plain of Bengal behind us, which is a feature of interest,
we commenced the ascent; first through a jungle of cane and grass, both
very high, where tigers, leopards, bears, deer, and the like have their
home; and next through a forest with few familiar trees save the giant
oak. Higher up the graceful bamboo is seen, and still higher fruit trees
are plentiful; then small tea plantations appear, and a more peaceful
landscape. Another bold curve and the glorious snow-capped Kanchanjanga
range is in full view,--a perfect panorama, the atmosphere being clear
and the sky almost cloudless. It was one of the supreme moments of life.
We were now nearing Darjeeling, having made a gradual descent during the
last half-hour.
[Illustration: _A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range_]
* * * * *
DARJEELING, _December 28th_: The Woodlands Hotel, picturesquely situated
on the side of a lesser mountain, became our abiding-place for all too
short a time. Darjeeling is beautifully located upon a ridge, seven
thousand feet above water level. The mountain side is picturesque with
its sprinkling of villas and bungalows, tall mountains towering up as a
background. The average temperature is eighty degrees in summer and
thirty in winter; hence it is a favorite resort. There is a sanitarium
here, called "The Eden." The mountain views prove a great attraction;
the Kanchanjanga range is seen beyond the intervening mountains, with a
vast chasm in the foreground.
The Mall is the principal promenade, and winds around Observatory Hill,
from which fine glimpses of the country are to be obtained. In the
vicinity is St. Andrew's Church, with interesting tablets, and near by
the summer residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal.
We were admonished to hurry our luncheon in order not to lose the
opportunity of seeing the celebrated bazar of which we had heard so
much, even in Bombay. I do not refer to the regular street bazar, but to
a bazar at which crowds of peasants from different provinces congregate
once a week for the sale of silver and turquoise jewelry, which is
mostly exhibited on their persons, supplemented by a small bundle which
is carried; but the transactions are very primitive and unlike those at
any other bazar. Then there are the quaint things they wear,--artistic
chatelaines with articles generally suspended and thrown over the
shoulder, instead of worn around the waist, immense earrings,
finger-rings, bracelets, and anklets; also large round silver pins for
the hair, suspended between two long ornaments resembling an elongated
corkscrew--all linked together with a narrow black ribbon tied in a
bow. The wearing of this latter head ornament was very grotesque, and I
bought one taken from the hair of a peasant, besides purchasing some
other articles which now serve as a reminder of the quaint scene. The
dress of the men, women, and children was peculiar, and varied according
to their province, such as Bhutias, Tibetans, Nepalese, Pelaris,
Ghorkas, and others.
[Illustration: _A Nepaulese group_]
Their shrewd faces were illuminated with smiles as they realized the
success of a bargain which was doubtless far in excess of the value of
the article purchased; or failing of a bargain their persistent attempts
to secure one were amusing. As we walked around through the motley
crowd, powerless to express ourselves except in the universal language
of pantomime, with mountains all around us and the Kanchanjanga still in
view, we felt as though we were a part of a play, it seemed so unreal.
Later we visited the street bazars, all of them furnished with articles
claimed to be antique. In the evening the proprietor of the hotel gave
us an interesting description of scenes in Tibet, illustrated with
lantern views.
The cold of late December now became intense, and it required some
courage to be called at three o'clock in the morning for an expedition
to Tiger Hill to see the sun rise. A half-hour after, nevertheless, saw
our departure, and you would have smiled at the spectacle I presented,
seated in a chair with six bearers (two for a relay), rugs and cushions
piled around me, the crowning feature being a red blanket which, at the
last moment, one of the bearers draped around my shoulders. It was
moonlight when we left the valley. The view of each mountain and gorge
was marvellous, so unlike daylight, as the moon ever throws elusive
shadows about all things it touches. Before we reached our destination,
the first streak of dawn was faintly outlined against the horizon, as if
heralding the approach of some great spectacle, which soon came in
shades of gold and pink; then bursting forth like a great ball of fire
which illuminated the whole scene, even the distant Kanchanjanga range
being suffused with a pinkish glow. We held our breath and were
thankful, for the guide had told us that a perfect sunrise was a rare
occurrence. Mount Everest, 29,002 feet high, eighty miles distant, and
the highest peak in the world, as usual was but dimly seen. After the
excitement of the morning, the hot coffee and rolls which were provided
for us proved most acceptable. We lingered on for a half-hour, amused
that even above the clouds human nature is the same, as every bearer
produced rings or other trinkets for our inspection and possible
purchase. The descent was made in the blinding sunlight, and indeed it
was so warm that we laid aside our blankets, and we noted the different
aspects which all Nature wore.
A nine-o'clock breakfast followed, and we were ready for other
experiences. The descent to Siliguri was not unlike the ascent, with the
view reversed. A night train conveyed us to Sara Ghat, where we arrived
early in the morning and were taken across the river Ganges to
Dumonkdeah, where we took a train for Calcutta, one hundred and sixteen
miles distant.
* * * * *
CALCUTTA, _December 31st_: There is, in a certain sense, a link between
Benares and Calcutta; the latter is situated on the Hooghly River, which
is an outlet of the river Ganges, but no resemblance exists between
India's modern winter capital and the city of superstition. We arrived
in Calcutta on December 31st, and repaired to the Strand Hotel. An
afternoon drive to Eden Park proved delightful, and on every side we saw
attractive surroundings.
January 1st dawned brightly, and found us at 7 A.M. driving to the fine
esplanade, called "The Maidan," and extending two miles. We were on our
way to witness the great annual military review by the Viceroy, now Lord
Minto. Presentation Day is the term here applied to New Year's Day. It
was a gala occasion indeed, and the equipages of the rich, and the
smaller vehicles of all descriptions, encircled the barrier that
intervened between the spectators and those who were to furnish the
display. There were also hundreds on foot, some of them in the brilliant
native dress of various colors, with their many-hued turbans. This was
specially noticeable in the livery of many of the native carriages,
where gold trimmings were profuse, and the same scheme was carried out
in the dress of the two coachmen and two footmen, the latter being
called _syces_. The militia presented a splendid appearance, and the
infantry marched with the greatest precision, but the cavalry, as usual,
carried off the honors as regards spectacular display, particularly the
native cavalry with their picturesque dress. Lord Minto and his aides
were elegantly decked in their accoutrements and elicited much cheering.
We returned for a nine-thirty breakfast, and left afterwards for a
sight-seeing expedition, having been warned not to expect much in this
line at Calcutta. St. Paul's Cathedral--English--was interesting on
account of the many memorials and statues, one of Bishop Heber having
much merit. Fort William and the grounds of the Government House, the
Dalhousie Club, the Black Hole, and other points were also visited.
[Illustration: _The Government House in Calcutta_]
The Black Hole is so often mentioned in connection with Calcutta that a
few words of explanation seem necessary. It was at the time of the
siege of Calcutta in 1756 a small room in the barracks, twenty-two by
fourteen feet in size, and sixteen feet in height. One hundred human
beings were crowded into it on the night of June 20th, and there were
only twenty-three survivors in the morning. A memorial obelisk was
erected by one of these survivors, and this was restored by order of
Lord Curzon.
The Imperial Museum is a very large building and has extensive
geological and archæological departments. It also possesses a fine
library.
We omitted the burning ghat, remembering the one at Benares, but a Hindu
temple revealed another repulsive goddess, Kali, and the sacrifice of
the goat had just occurred. The river front has a ghat for bathing.
A drive to the distant Botanical Gardens proved of much interest, and
the largest banyan tree in the world was there displayed, having four
hundred and sixty-four aerial branches and covering over an acre in
extent; there were also long avenues of palms.
Lacking the fine harbor of Bombay, Calcutta is still a city of great
commercial importance and of many natural attractions and fine public
buildings. It is, however, a place of decided contrasts, imposing
streets of residences being not far distant from as wretched a native
quarter as may be seen in any other Indian city. To the casual tourist
Calcutta seems a large English city (eight hundred thousand
inhabitants), especially so in the life on the Maidan, the centre of
attraction and fashion. Eden Park is also greatly frequented, and the
race-course is the finest in India; but, notwithstanding, Calcutta has
not the charm of Bombay. The Strand Hotel gave us an elaborate menu for
our New Year's dinner, which was supplemented by flowers and bonbons,
and we all voted the occasion, even if in a foreign land, a success. And
so I link Lucknow and Calcutta together in the holiday column of my
memory.
I have before alluded to the sad, dejected faces of the natives of North
India; the Bengali seemed a trifle more melancholy, as is their
reputation. We did not regret our departure, although it meant the loss
of our faithful Indian guide, Dalle, and our travelling servant, Jusef,
both with their long India bordered shawls artistically thrown over one
shoulder, and their high white turbans rolled round and round the head,
the finishing touch being a tall conical ornament that stood up in the
centre. This is significant of their territorial province, styles of
turbans varying with the locality. The early hour of 6 A.M. found us
departing on the British and India line for a steamer trip of three
days, Rangoon being our destination.
[Illustration: _An avenue of palms in the Botanical Gardens_]
The trip was restful, but afforded little variety, and we hailed our
arrival at Rangoon with delight early on the morning of January 6th. By
a late decision we concluded to go on at once to Mandalay and leave
Rangoon to be visited on our return. Taking a train at noon, we were
favored by journeying in _de luxe_ cars, sacred to the use of high
officials, and so complete in equipment as to include bathroom,
shower-bath, and other conveniences. The afternoon ride was through a
fertile country, rice and bananas being the principal products. The rice
crop had been garnered, and piles of bags were ready at every station
for shipment to Rangoon (the amount shipped is two hundred thousand tons
annually). Later we visited a field where rice was being harvested. It
is not unlike wheat in the sheaf, but smaller. The country process after
cutting is first to pound the rice, and then winnow it so as to remove
the hull; this is done by throwing it in the air, by means of a round
flat plate with a handle. Machinery is used in the cities.
* * * * *
BURMA: We were now far from the centre of things, in a remote corner of
Southeastern Asia, hidden in the midst of mountains, which were for ages
the safeguard against Indian invaders and the aggression of China.
Proselyting Buddhists, however, found their way from India and brought
civilization with them.
There is a great diversity of races in Burma, various foreign tribes
having come there and remained, making a mixed population. There are now
about sixty thousand Palaings wearing the Chin dress. The Kachins, a
warlike people, formerly made raids on the Burmans who lived on the
border of China, the Chins dwelling among the hills. The Karens are
numerically the strongest and live in the delta of the Irrawaddy. They
had been an oppressed people, but achieved their liberty under British
rule, and it is estimated that one hundred thousand abjured Buddhism and
became Christians. The Chins are the oldest, having come from China two
thousand years ago.
Southern Burma was under British rule before the middle of the
nineteenth century, but it is only since January, 1886, that England has
controlled Northern Burma. King Thebaw's downfall was caused by his
numerous cruel acts to foreigners, which compelled the British to take
steps to check him. His headquarters were at Mandalay, and his deserted
palace is the centre of attraction to-day. The most prominent feature is
the fort, in and about which are grouped the palace of the King, the
houses of Government officials and residents of the military quarter.
[Illustration: _Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay_]
[Illustration: _Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the
Universe_]
The palace was erected by Mindon Min, King Thebaw's father. It covers an
immense area and is encompassed by a high wall of red brick, in which
are twelve gates, each one surrounded by a conical cupola, with layers
of upturned eaves after the peculiar fashion of the country; the same
thing is characteristic of China.
The fort is entirely surrounded by a moat, one hundred feet wide and
twelve feet deep. Five bridges also lead from five of the gateways. The
moat supplies drinking water for the city and is covered with the purple
lotus blossom. Its width and extent make it a characteristic feature of
Mandalay. Roads run parallel with the walls and lead to the entrance of
the palace gardens, once very beautiful.
The palace is a square of twenty or more buildings, built of teak,
painted red, and covered originally with gold leaf. The roofs have
layers of upturned eaves, and the buildings are richly decorated with
colored ornamentation, while the worn gilding and faded reds are blended
in the peculiar shading which time alone can give. There are many
audience rooms, these usually furnished with elaborately decorated
thrones, as is also the audience room in the beautiful adjacent palace
of the Queen; her throne and the King's great throne in the principal
audience room under the lofty cupola (called pyathat, and termed by the
people the "Centre of the Universe") are especially imposing and rich in
decoration. On either side of this audience chamber are large audience
rooms; these were used for some time after the British occupation as a
church for the soldiers, and the Queen's palace was turned into a
resting place for the Upper Burma Club; now both the church and the club
have appropriate edifices of their own. Between two of the principal
rooms is a screen, utilized as a wall and panelled in glass, mosaic, and
mirrors, which is very effective and reminds one of the glass room in
the palace at Amber.
From the high hill at Mandalay, one may gain an excellent general view
of the many pagodas and monasteries in which the city abounds; for this
is verily the land of the pagoda. The most beautiful of all, called the
Incomparable, was destroyed by fire. One of great interest was built by
Mindon Min, and called the Kuthodau, or, more generally, the 450
Pagodas, but there are said to be seven hundred and twenty-nine cupolas
surrounding the great central pagoda, each containing an alabaster slab
upon which are engraved some texts of Buddha taken from the Pali Bible,
the King thinking thus to perpetuate them,--the whole surrounded by a
wall, in which are built two richly decorated gates.
[Illustration: _The Arakan Pagoda_]
[Illustration: _One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas_]
Situated very near the so-termed 450 Pagodas is a group of attractive
pagodas in carved wood and plaster of different designs. In the centre
is an unfinished marble pagoda, called Kyauk Taw Gyi, which contains
a huge attractive figure of Buddha, twenty-five feet high.
On the same morning we visited the glass monastery which once on a time
had been very imposing. Here we saw the Bishop and a number of novice
priests receiving instruction, taking, I imagine, a kind of postgraduate
course. All were most affable and seemed happy, as does every one in
Burma. At this monastery two of our party were given copies of a portion
of the Burmese Bible.