HEAD-HUNTERS
BLACK, WHITE, AND BROWN
[Illustration: THE SCOTT-KELTIE FALLS, MOUNT DULIT, BARAM DISTRICT,
SARAWAK]
HEAD-HUNTERS
BLACK, WHITE, AND BROWN
BY
ALFRED C. HADDON, SC.D., F.R.S.
FELLOW OF CHRIST’S COLLEGE
AND UNIVERSITY LECTURER IN ETHNOLOGY, CAMBRIDGE
WITH THIRTY-TWO PLATES, FORTY ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT
AND SIX MAPS
METHUEN & CO.
36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
LONDON
1901
TO
MY WIFE
AND
TO THE MEMORY OF
MY MOTHER
WHO FIRST TAUGHT ME TO OBSERVE
I DEDICATE
THIS RECORD OF MY TRAVELS
PREFACE
In 1888 I went to Torres Straits to study the coral reefs and marine
zoology of the district; whilst prosecuting these studies I naturally
came much into contact with the natives, and soon was greatly interested
in them. I had previously determined not to study the natives, having
been told that a good deal was known already about them; but I was not
long in discovering that much still remained to be learned. Indeed, it
might be truly said that practically nothing was known of the customs and
beliefs of the natives, even by those who we had every reason to expect
would have acquired that information.
Such being the case, I felt it to be my duty to gather what information
I could when not actually engaged in my zoological investigations. I
found, even then, that the opportunities of learning about the pagan past
of the natives were limited, and that it would become increasingly more
difficult, as the younger men knew comparatively little of the former
customs and beliefs, and the old men were dying off.
On my return home I found that my inquiries into the ethnography of the
Torres Straits islanders were of some interest to anthropologists, and I
was encouraged to spend some time in writing out my results. Gradually
this has led me to devote myself to anthropological studies, and, not
unnaturally, one of my first projects was to attempt a monograph on the
Torres Straits Islanders. It was soon apparent that my information was
of too imperfect a nature to make a satisfactory memoir, and therefore I
delayed publishing until I could go out again to collect further material.
In course of time I was in a position to organise an expedition for
this purpose, which, being mainly endowed from University funds, had the
honour of being closely associated with the University of Cambridge. It
was my good fortune to be able to secure the co-operation of a staff of
colleagues, each of whom had some special qualification.
For a long time it had appeared to me that investigations in experimental
psychology in the field were necessary if we were ever to gauge the
mental and sensory capabilities of primitive peoples. This expedition
presented the requisite opportunity, and the organisation of this
department was left to Dr. W. H. R. Rivers, of St. John’s College, the
University lecturer in physiological and experimental psychology. The
co-operation of Dr. C. S. Myers, of Caius College, had been secured
early, and as he is a good musician, he specialised more particularly
in the study of the hearing and music of the natives. Mr. W. McDougall,
Fellow of St. John’s College, also volunteered to assist in the
experimental psychology department of the expedition.
When the early arrangements were being made one of the first duties was
to secure the services of a linguist, and the obvious person to turn
to was Mr. Sidney H. Ray, who has long been a recognised authority on
Melanesian and Papuan languages. Fortunately, he was able to join the
expedition.
Mr. Anthony Wilkin, of King’s College, took the photographs for the
expedition, and he assisted me in making the physical measurements and
observations. He also investigated the construction of the houses, land
tenure, transference of property, and other social data of various
districts.
When this book was being brought out the sad news arrived in England
of the death by dysentery of my pupil, friend, and colleague in Cairo
on the 17th of May (1901), on his return home from a second winter’s
digging in Upper Egypt. Poor Wilkin! barely twenty-four years of age,
and with the promise of a brilliant career before him. I invited him to
accompany me while he was still an undergraduate, having been struck
by his personal and mental qualities. He was a man of exceptional
ability and of frank, pleasing manner, and a thorough hater of humbug.
Although he was originally a classical scholar, Wilkin read for the
History Tripos, but his interests were wider than the academic course,
and he paid some attention to sociology, and was also interested in
natural science. In his early undergraduate days he published a brightly
written book, _On the Nile with a Camera_. Immediately after his first
winter’s digging in Egypt with Professor Flinders Petrie, he went with
Mr. D. Randall-Maciver to Algeria to study the problem of the supposed
relationship, actual or cultural, of the Berbers with the Ancient
Egyptians. An interesting exhibition of the objects then collected was
displayed at the Anthropological Institute in the summer (1900), and
later in the year Wilkin published a well-written and richly illustrated
popular account of their experiences, entitled, _Among the Berbers of
Algeria_. Quite recently the scientific results were published in a
sumptuously illustrated joint work entitled, _Libyan Notes_. Wilkin
was an enthusiastic traveller, and was projecting important schemes
for future work. There is little doubt that had he lived he would have
distinguished himself as a thoroughly trained field-ethnologist and
scientific explorer.
Finally, Mr. C. G. Seligmann volunteered to join the party. He paid
particular attention to native medicine and to the diseases of the
natives as well as to various economic plants and animals.
Such was the _personnel_ of the expedition. Several preliminary
communications have been published by various members; but the complete
account of our investigations in Torres Straits is being published by
the Cambridge University Press in a series of special memoirs. The
observations made on the mainland of British New Guinea and in Sarawak
will be published in various journals as opportunity offers.
The book I now offer to the public contains a general account of our
journeyings and of some of the sights we witnessed and facts that we
gleaned.
I would like to take this opportunity of expressing my thanks to my
comrades for all the assistance they have rendered me, both in the
field and at home. I venture to prophesy that when all the work of the
expedition is concluded my colleagues will be found to have performed
their part in a most praiseworthy manner.
Our united thanks are due to many people, from H.H. the Rajah of Sarawak
down to the least important native who gave us information. Wherever
we went, collectively or individually, we were hospitably received and
assisted in our work. Experience and information were freely offered us,
and what success the expedition has attained must be largely credited to
these friends.
I cannot enumerate all who deserve recognition, but, taking them in
chronological order, the following rendered us noteworthy service.
The Queensland Government, through the Hon. T. J. Byrnes, then Premier,
sent us the following cordial welcome by telegraph on our arrival at
Thursday Island:—
“Permit me on behalf of Government to welcome you and your
party to Queensland and to express our sincere hope that your
expedition will meet with the success which it deserves. We
shall be glad if at any time we can afford any assistance
towards the object of the expedition or to its individual
members, and trust that you will not hesitate to advise us
if we can be of service to you. Have asked Mr. Douglas to
do anything in his power and to afford you any information
concerning the objects of your mission he may be in a position
to impart.”
The Hon. John Douglas, C.M.G., the Government Resident at Thursday
Island, not merely officially, but privately and of his spontaneous good
nature, afforded us every facility in his power. Through his kind offices
the Queensland Government made a special grant of £100 towards the
expenses of the expedition, and in connection with this a very friendly
telegram was sent by the late Sir James R. Dickson, K.C.M.G., who was
then the Home Secretary.
The Government of British New Guinea did what it could to further our
aims. Unfortunately, His Excellency Sir William Macgregor, K.C.M.G.,
M.D., SC.D., the then Lieutenant-Governor of the Possession, was away
on a tour of inspection during my visit to the Central District; but
he afterwards showed much kindness to Seligmann. The Hon. A. Musgrave,
of Port Moresby, was most cordial and helpful, and we owe a great deal
to him. The Hon. D. Ballantine, the energetic Treasurer and Collector
of Customs, proved himself a very good friend and benefactor to the
expedition. The Hon. B. A. Hely, Resident Magistrate of the Western
Division, helped us on our way, and we are greatly indebted in many ways
to Mr. A. C. English, the Government Agent of the Rigo District.
All travellers to British New Guinea receive many benefits directly
and indirectly from the New Guinea Mission of the London Missionary
Society. Everywhere we went we were partakers of the hospitality of the
missionaries and South Sea teachers; the same genuine friendliness and
anxiety to help permeates the whole staff, so much so that it seems
invidious to mention names, but the great assistance afforded us by the
late Rev. James Chalmers deserves special recognition, as does also the
kindness of Dr. and Mrs. Lawes. The Mission boats were also freely placed
at our disposal as far as the service of the Mission permitted; but for
this liberality on the part of Mr. Chalmers we should several times
have been in an awkward predicament. If any words of mine could induce
any practical assistance being given to the Mission I would feel most
gratified, for I sadly realise that our indebtedness to the Mission can
only be acknowledged adequately by proxy.
It is a sad duty to chronicle the irreparable loss which all those who
are connected with British New Guinea have undergone in the tragic
death of the devoted Tamate. Mrs. Chalmers died in the autumn of 1900
under most distressing circumstances in the Mission boat when on her
way to Thursday Island. A few months later, when endeavouring to make
peace during a tribal war on the Aird River, Chalmers crowned a life
of hardship and self-sacrifice by martyrdom in the cause of peace. A
glorious end for a noble life. With him were murdered twelve native
Mission students and the Rev. O. Tomkins, a young, intelligent, and
enthusiastic missionary, from whom much was expected.
Very pleasing is it to record the brotherly kindness that we received
at the hands of the Sacred Heart Mission. None of our party belonged
to their Communion, but from the Archbishop to the lowliest Brother we
received nothing but the friendliest treatment. Nor would we omit our
thanks to the good Sisters for the cheerful way in which they undertook
the increased cares of catering which our presence necessitated. The
insight which we gained into the ethnography of the Mekeo District is
solely due to the good offices of the various members of the Sacred Heart
Mission.
In the course of the following pages I often refer to Mr. John Bruce,
the Government Schoolmaster on Murray Island. It would be difficult to
exaggerate the influence he exerts for good by his instruction, advice,
and unostentatious example. His help and influence were invaluable to
us, and when our researches are finally published, anthropologists will
cordially admit how much their science owes to “Jack Bruce.”
We found Mr. Cowling, of Mabuiag, very helpful, not only at the time but
subsequently, as he has since sent us much valuable information, and he
also deserves special thanks.
Our visit to Sarawak was due to a glowing invitation I received from Mr.
Charles Hose, the Resident of the Baram District. I have so frequently
referred in print and speech to his generosity and erudition, that I
need only add here that his University has conferred on him the greatest
honour it is in her power to bestow—the degree of Doctor in Science
_honoris causa_.
But it was Rajah Sir Charles Brooke’s interest in the expedition that
made many things possible, and to him we offer our hearty thanks, both
for facilities placed at our disposal and for the expression of his
good-will.
At Kuching we received great hospitality from the white residents.
Particular mention must be made of the Hon. C. A. Bampfylde, Resident
of Sarawak; on our arrival he was administrating the country in the
absence of the Rajah, who was in England; nor should Dr. A. J. G. Barker,
Principal Medical Officer of Sarawak, and Mr. R. Shelford, the Curator of
the Museum, be omitted.
Great kindness and hospitality were shown us by Mr. O. F. Ricketts,
Resident of the Limbang District. We had a most enjoyable visit to his
beautiful Residency, and he arranged for us all the details of our
journey up-river.
One fact through all our journeyings has continually struck me.
Travellers calmly and uninvitedly plant themselves on residents by whom
they are received with genuine kindness and hospitably entertained with
the best that can be offered. Experience, information, and influence are
cheerfully and ungrudgingly placed at the disposal of the guests, who
not unfrequently palm off, without acknowledgment, on an unsuspecting
public the facts that others have gleaned.
The warm welcome that one receives is as refreshing to the spirit as the
shower-bath is to the body and daintily served food to the appetite when
one has been wandering in the wilds.
In order to render my descriptions of the places and people more
continuous I have practically ignored the exact order in which events
happened or journeys were made. For those who care about chronology I
append a bare statement of the location of the various members of the
expedition at various times. I have also not hesitated to include certain
of my experiences, or some of the information I gained, during my first
expedition to Torres Straits in 1888-9; but the reader will always be
able to discriminate between the two occasions.
1898.
March 10th. Left London.
April 22nd. Arrived Thursday Island, where joined by Seligmann.
April 30th. Left Thursday Island.
May 6th. Arrived Murray Island.
May 23rd. Haddon, Ray, Wilkin, and Seligmann left for New Guinea.
June 25th. Seligmann went to Rigo.
July 20th. Haddon, Ray, and Wilkin returned from New Guinea to
Murray Island.
August 24th. Myers and McDougall left Murray Island for Sarawak.
Sept. 8th. Haddon, Rivers, Ray, and Wilkin left Murray Island for
Kiwai.
Sept. 12th. Seligmann arrived at Saguane.
Sept. 15th. Haddon, Rivers, Wilkin, Seligmann left Saguane for
Mabuiag.
Sept. 17th. Arrived Mabuiag.
Oct. 3rd. Ray came from Saguane.
Oct. 19th. Rivers left to return home.
Oct. 21st. Wilkin left to return home.
Oct. 22nd. Haddon, Ray, Seligmann left for Saibai, etc.
Nov. 15th. Left Thursday Island.
Nov. 28th. Arrived Hongkong.
Dec. 3rd. Left Hongkong.
Dec. 9th. Arrived Singapore.
Dec. 10th. Left Singapore.
Dec. 12th. Arrived Kuching.
1899.
Jan. 4th. Left Kuching for Baram.
Jan. 8th. Arrived Limbang.
Jan. 16th. Left Limbang.
Jan. 28th. Arrived Marudi (Claudetown).
April 20th. Left Marudi.
April 25th. Left Kuching.
May 31st. Arrived in London.
The following is the system of spelling which has been adopted in this
book:—
_a_ as in “father.”
_ă_ as in “at.”
_e_ as _a_ in “date.”
_ĕ_ as in “debt.”
_i_ as _ee_ in “feet.”
_ĭ_ as in “it.”
_o_ as in “own.”
_ŏ_ as in “on.”
_ö_ as German _ö_ in “schön.”
_ò_ as _aw_ in “law.”
_u_ as _oo_ in “soon.”
_ŭ_ as in “up.”
_ai_ as in “aisle.”
_au_ as _ow_ in “cow.”
The consonants are sounded as in English.
_ng_ as in “sing.”
_ngg_ as in “finger.”
CONTENTS
PART I
CHAPTER I
THURSDAY ISLAND TO MURRAY ISLAND
Port Kennedy, Thursday Island—l’assage in the _Freya_ to Murray
Island—Darnley Island—Arrival at Murray Island—Reception by the
natives _Page_ 1-10
CHAPTER II
THE MURRAY ISLANDS
Geographical features of the islands of Torres Straits—Geology
of the Murray Islands—Climate—The Murray Islanders—Physical and
other characteristics—Form of Government _Page_ 11-21
CHAPTER III
WORK AND PLAY IN MURRAY ISLAND
The Expedition Dispensary—Investigations in Experimental
Psychology: visual acuity, colour vision, mirror writing,
estimation of time, acuity of hearing, sense of smell and
taste, sensitiveness to pain—The Miriam language—Methods of
acquiring information—Rain-making—Native amusements—Lantern
exhibition—String puzzles—Top-spinning—Feast—Copper Maori _Page_ 22-41
CHAPTER IV
THE MALU CEREMONIES
Initiation ceremonies—Secret societies—Visit to
Las—Representation of the Malu ceremonies—Models of the old
masks—The ceremonies as formerly carried out—“Devil belong
Malu” _Page_ 42-52
CHAPTER V.
ZOGOS
The Murray Island oracle, Tomog Zogo—The
village of Las—Tamar—The war-dance at Ziriam
Zogo—Zabarker—Wind-raising—Teaching Geography at Dam—Tamar
again—A Miriam “play”—How Pepker made a hill—Iriam Moris,
the fat man—Zogo of the girl of the south-west—Photographing
zogos—The coconut zogo—A turtle zogo—The big women who dance
at night—The Waiad ceremony _Page_ 53-70
CHAPTER VI
VARIOUS INCIDENTS IN MURRAY ISLAND
Our “boys” in Murray Island—“Gi, he gammon”—Character of some
of our native friends—Ulai—Rivalry between Debe Wali and
Jimmy Rice—Our Royal Guests—The Papuan method of smoking—A
domestic quarrel—Debe and Jimmy fall out—An earthquake—Cause
of a hurricane—The world saved from a comet by three weeks of
prayer—an unaccounted-for windstorm—New Guinea magic—“A woman
of Samaria”—Jimmy Rice in prison—A yam zogo—Rain-makers—A
death-dealing zogo—Mummies—Skull-divination—Purchasing skulls—A
funeral _Page_ 71-94
CHAPTER VII
KIWAI AND MAWATTA
Leave Murray Island in the _Nieue_—Daru—Arrive at
Saguane—Mission-work—Visit Iasa—Long clan houses—Totems and
totemistic customs—Bull-roarers and human effigies as garden
charms and during initiation ceremonies—Head-hunting—Stone
implements—Origin of Man—Origin of Fire—Primitive dwellings at
Old Mawatta—Shell hoe—Katau or Mawatta—Election of a chief—A
love story—Dances—Bamboo beheading-knife _Page_ 95-116
CHAPTER VIII
MABUIAG
Mabuiag revisited—Character of the island—Comparison
between the Murray Island and Mabuiag natives—Barter for
skulls—Economic condition of Mabuiag—Present of food—Waria,
a literary Papuan—Death of Waria’s baby—Method of collecting
relationships and genealogies—Colour-blindness—The Mabuiag
language—A May Meeting followed by a war-dance _Page_ 117-131
CHAPTER IX
TOTEMISM AND THE CULT OF KWOIAM
Totemism in Mabuiag—Significance of Totemism—Advantage of
Totemism—Seclusion of girls—The Sacred Island of Pulu—The
scenes of some of Kwoiam’s exploits—The Pulu Kwod—The stone
that fell from the sky—The Kwoiam Augŭds—Death dances—Test
for bravery—Bull-roarer—Pictographs—The Cave of Skulls—The
destruction of relics—Outline of the Saga of Kwoiam—Kwoiam’s
miraculous water-hole—The death of Kwoiam _Page_ 132-147
CHAPTER X
DUGONG AND TURTLE FISHING
A dugong hunt—What is a dugong?—The dugong platform—Dugong
charms—Turtle-fishing—How the sucker-fish is employed to
catch turtle—Beliefs respecting the _gapu_—The _agu_ and
bull-roarers—Cutting up a turtle _Page_ 148-157
CHAPTER XI
MARRIAGE CUSTOMS AND STAR MYTHS
MARRIAGE CUSTOMS: How girls propose marriage among the
western tribe—A proposal in Tut—Marital relations—A wedding
in church—An unfortunate love affair—Various love-letters.
STAR MYTHS: The Tagai constellation—A stellar almanack, its
legendary origin—The origin of the constellations of Dorgai
Metakorab and Bu—The story of Kabi, and how he discovered who
the Sun, Moon, and Night were _Page_ 158-169
CHAPTER XII
VISITS TO VARIOUS WESTERN ISLANDS
Our party breaks up. SAIBAI: Clan groupings—Vaccination
marks turned to a new use—Triple-crowned coconut palm—A
two-storied native house. TUT: Notes of a former visit—Brief
description of the old initiation ceremonies—Relics of the
past. YAM: A Totem shrine. NAGIR: The decoration of Magau’s
skull “old-time fashion”—Divinatory skulls—The sawfish magical
dance—Pictographs in Kiriri. MURALUG: Visit to Prince of Wales
Island in 1888—A family party—War-dance _Page_ 170-189
CHAPTER XIII
CAPE YORK NATIVES
Visit to Somerset—Notes on the Yaraikanna tribe—Initiation
ceremony—Bull-roarer—Knocking out a front tooth—The _ari_
or “personal totem” _Page_ 190-194
CHAPTER XIV
A TRIP DOWN THE PAPUAN COAST
The _Olive Branch_—Passage across the Papuan
Gulf—Delena—Tattooing—A Papuan _amentum_—A sorcerer’s
kit—Borepada—Port Moresby—Gaile, a village built in the
sea—Character of the country—Kăpăkăpă—_Dubus_—The Vatorata
Mission Station—Dr. and Mrs. Lawes—Sir William Macgregor’s
testimony to mission work—A dance _Page_ 197-210
CHAPTER XV
THE HOOD PENINSULA
Bulaa by moonlight—Hospitality of the South Sea
teachers—Geographical character of the Hood
Peninsula—Kalo—Annual fertility ceremony at Babaka—Canoe-making
at Keapara—The fishing village of Alukune—The Keapara
bullies—Picking a policeman’s pocket—Tattooing—A surgical
remedy—Variations in the character of the Papuan
hair—Pile-raising—Children’s toys and games—Dances—Second
visit to Vatorata—Visit Mr. English at Rigo _Page_ 211-234
CHAPTER XVI
PORT MORESBY AND THE ASTROLABE RANGE
Port Moresby—Ride inland—Vegetation—View from the top of
Warirata—The Taburi village of Atsiamakara—The Koiari—Tree
houses—The Agi chief—Contrasts—A lantern show—The
mountaineers—Tribal warfare—The pottery trade of Port
Moresby—The Koitapu and the Motu—Gunboats _Page_ 235-251
CHAPTER XVII
THE MEKEO DISTRICT
Arrival at Yule Island—The Sacred Heart Mission—Death of a
Brother—A service at Ziria—The meeting of the Papuan East
and West in Yule Island—The _Ibitoe_—Making a drum—Marriage
customs—Omens—Tattooing—The Roro fishers and traders—The Mekeo
agriculturists—The Pokao hunters—Markets—Pinupaka—Mohu—Walk
across the plain and through the forest—Inawi—War
and Taboo chiefs—Taboo customs—Masks—A Mission
festivity—Tops—Veifaa—Women’s dress—Children’s games—Return
to coast _Page_ 252-277
PART II
CHAPTER XVIII
JOURNEY FROM KUCHING TO BARAM
Arrival in Sarawak—Description of Kuching—The Sarawak
Museum—Visit to Sibu—Stay in Limbang—A Malay sago factory—Visit
to Brunei—Method and aims of Rajah Brooke’s Government _Page_ 279-294
CHAPTER XIX
THE WAR-PATH OF THE KAYANS
Leave Limbang—A Kadayan house at Tulu—Rapids on the
Limbang—Ascent of the Madalam—The Insurrection of Orang
Kaya Tumonggong Lawai—Enter the Trikan—Durian—Met by Mr.
Douglas—Old Jungle—Descend the Malinau and Tutau—Kayan
tattooing—Berantu ceremony in the Batu Blah House—Arrival
at Marudi (Claudetown)—Kenyah drinking customs _Page_ 297-311
CHAPTER XX
THE COUNTRY AND PEOPLE OF BORNEO
THE GEOGRAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF BORNEO:
Arrangement of mountains—The geology of the “Mountain-land,”
Palæozoic—Mesozoic—the geology of the “Hill-land,”
Cainozoic—The geology of the Plains, Quaternary—The geology
of the Marshes, Alluvium—Recent volcanic action. A SKETCH
OF THE ETHNOGRAPHY OF SARAWAK: Punans—Various agricultural
tribes of Indonesian and Proto-Malay stock—Land Dayaks—Kenyahs
and Kayans—Iban (Sea Dayaks)—Malays—Sociological History of
Sarawak—Chinese traders _Page_ 312-329
CHAPTER XXI
A TRIP INTO THE INTERIOR OF BORNEO
The Lelak house at Long Tru—Skull trophies—The settled Punans
on the Bok—Sarcophagus in Taman Liri’s house—Divination by
means of a pig’s liver in Aban Abit’s house—Purchase of some
skulls—The Panyamun Panic in Sarawak in 1894-5—Commencement of
a similar scare—Administrative duties at Long Semitan—Character
of the Sĕbops—The fable of the monkey and the frog—A visit to
Mount Dulit—The Scott-Keltie Falls—The Himalayan affinities of
the fauna of Mount Dulit and of other high mountains in
Borneo _Page_ 330-351
CHAPTER XXII
A TRIP INTO THE INTERIOR OF BORNEO—_continued_
Ceremony of moving skulls into a new house at Long Puah—Naming
ceremony for Jangan’s boy—Peace-making—Conviviality—Malohs
desire to marry some Sĕbop girls—Sĕbop dances—Scenery on the
Tinjar—Burnt house at Long Dapoi—Panyamun Scare again—The
Dapoi—Long Sulan—Tingan’s matrimonial mishap—News from the
Madangs—A Punan medicine man—Panyamun Scare settled—Discovery
of stone implements—A native selling a stone implement for a
loin cloth to die in—A stone hook—A visit to Tama Bulan—The
unfortunate Bulan—Fanny Rapid—A Kenyan love story _Page_ 352-380
CHAPTER XXIII
NOTES ON THE OMEN ANIMALS OF SARAWAK
Archdeacon Perham on the omens of the Iban (Sea Dayaks)—List
of the omen animals of the Kayans, Kenyahs, Punans, and
Iban—Reputed origin of “Birding” _Page_ 381-393
CHAPTER XXIV
THE CULT OF SKULLS IN SARAWAK
Reasons for collecting heads—Head required for going out
of mourning for a chief—Kenyah legend of the origin of
Head-hunting—How Kenyahs leave skulls behind when moving
into a new house _Page_ 394-400
CHAPTER XXV
PEACE-MAKING AT BARAM
Padi competition—Obstacle race—Speech-making—The Lirong
_jawa_—Fracas and reconciliation—Tuba-fishing in Logan
Ansok—Great boat-race—Monster public meeting—Enthusiastic
speeches, and Madangs formally received into the Baram
Administrative District _Page_ 401-415
INDEX _Page_ 417-426
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
The Scott-Keltie Falls, Mt. Dulit, Baram District, Sarawak _Frontispiece_
PLATE FACING PAGE
I. A. Ari, the Mamoose of Mer 18
B. Pasi, the Mamoose of Dauar
II. A. Rain Shrine, Mer 34
B. Doiom with Bull-roarer
III. A. Ulai 40
B. A Top-spinning Match, Mer
IV. A. Removing Sand from a Copper Maori 41
B. A Murray Island Feast
V. A, B, C. The Dance of the Malu Zogole 48
VI. A. The Malu Ceremony at Las 49
B. Ulai singing Malu songs into a Phonograph: Gasu is
beating the Malu drum
VII. A. The Shrine of Zabarker 54
B. Tomog Zogo
VIII. A. The Islands of Waier and Dauar from the beach of Mer,
with a Fish Shrine in the foreground 64
B. U Zogo, the Coconut Shrine of Dauar
IX. A. Debe Wali and his Wife 72
B. Jimmy Rice and his Wife
X. A. Iasa, Kiwai 99
B. Side view of the Soko-Korobe Clan-house at Iasa
XI. A. Waria, Peter, Tom, and Gizu of Mabuiag 123
B. Nēĕt, or Platform from which Dugong are harpooned
XII. A. Man dressed up for the Death Dance 139
B. Divining Skulls: 1. Skull of Magau of Nagir; 2. A
Murray Island Skull
XIII. A. The Marine Village of Gaile 206
B. Bulaa
XIV. A. Girls of Babaka dressed for the Annual Ceremony 218
B. Girls on the Dubu at Babaka for the Annual Ceremony
XV. A. Hollowing out a Canoe with Stone Adzes at Keapara 220
B. A Bulaa girl being tattooed
XVI. A. A Native of Bulaa 223
B. A Bulaa youth with Ringworm
XVII. A. Dubu at Kamali 232
B. Dubu Dance at Gomoridobo
XVIII. A. Udia and Daube, Taburi, Koiari 243
B. Elevara, Port Moresby, with the London Missionary
Society’s Station in the background
XIX. A. Gewe, Chief of Agi, when deprived of his Hat 245
B. Gewe, with his Hat restored
XX. A. Tree House at Gasiri 248
B. Pottery-making at Hanuabada, Port Moresby
XXI. A. A Mekeo Ibitoe 256
B. Masked Man, Kaivakuku, of Waima, Mekeo District
XXII. A. Mohu, Mekeo District 268
B. Marea at Mohu
XXIII. A. Regatta at Kuching 280
B. View from Kaban Hill, with the Brunei Hills in the
distance
XXIV. A. Brunei 290
B. A Family Bathe
XXV. A. Orang Kaya Tumonggong Lawai, a Long Pata Chief in war
costume, with a Kenyah shield 300
B. A Sleeping-hut in the Jungle
XXVI. A. Ascending a Rapid 306
B. House of the Orang Bukits at Long Linai, Tutau River
XXVII. A. Punans 320
B. A Lelak man with typical Tattooing on shoulders and
upper arms
XXVIII. A. Side view of a Kayan House 331
B. Verandah of a Kayan House at Long Lama, Baram River
XXIX. A. Shrine outside Tama Bulan’s House 376
B. Bulan
C. Saba Irang, the Head Chief of the Madangs
XXX. A. Skull Trophy in a Kayan House 396
B. Skull Trophies in Aban Abit’s House at Long Tisam,
Barawan tribe
XXXI. A. Beating Tuba and baling the Infusion out of a Canoe 408
B. Penchallong prepared for the Great Peace-making
The photographs for Plates i.-iv. A., vi. B., vii. B., viii. B.-xi. A.,
xii. A., xiii.-xvi., xvii. A., xviii. A., xix.-xxii. were taken by the
late A. Wilkin; those for Plates xvii. B., xxv. A., xxvii. B., xxx. A.
were taken by C. G. Seligmann; Plate iv. B. by Dr. C. S. Myers; xii. B.
by H. Oldland; and the Frontispiece and Plates v., vii. A., viii. A.,
xviii. B., xxiii., xxiv., xxv. B., xxvi., xxvii. A., xxviii., xxix.,
xxx. B., xxxi. by the Author. Plates vi. A. and xi. B. were drawn from
photographs taken by the Author by his brother Trevor Haddon. With the
exception of Plate xxx. B. none of the photographs have been retouched.
The skulls depicted on the cover are drawn from a photograph of a trophy
collected by the Author at Mawatta, p. 115.
LIST OF FIGURES IN THE TEXT
FIG. PAGE
1. The Hill of Gelam, Murray Island 15
2. Murray Island from the south 16
3. Waier and Dauar 17
4. Model of the Bomai Mask of the Malu Ceremonies 47
5. Pepker, the Hill-maker 65
6. Ziai Neur Zogo, a Therapeutic Shrine 65
7. Native drawings of some of the Nurumara (totems) of Kiwai 102
8. Agricultural Charms of Kiwai 105
9. Neur Madub, a Love Charm 106
10. Shell Hoe used by the Natives of Parama 110
11. Bamboo Beheading-knife and Head Carrier, Mawatta 115
12. The Kwod, or Ceremonial Ground, in Pulu 139
13. Drawing by Gizu of a Danilkau, the Buffoon of the Funeral
Ceremonies 140
14. Drawing by Gizu of Mŭri ascending a Waterspout 141
15. Dugong Harpoon and Dart 149
16. Marine Plants (_Cymodocea_) on which the Dugong Feeds 152
17. Drawing by Gizu of the Method of Harpooning a Dugong 153
18. Wooden Dugong Charm from Moa 154
19. Drawing by Gizu of Dorgai Metakorab and Bu 167
20. House on Piles at Saibai, with the lower portion screened
with leaves 173
21. Restoration of the Kwod in Tut during the Initiation Period 177
22. Restoration of the Kwod in Yam 179
23. Rock Pictographs in Kiriri 185
24. Umbalako (Bull-roarers) of the Yaraikanna Tribe, Cape York 191
25. Irupi Dance, Babaka 217
26. Palm-leaf Toys, Bulaa 226
27. Tattooing in the Mekeo District 260
28. Afu, or Taboo Signal, Inawi 271
29. Boys at Veifaa dressed up as Fulaari 275
30. Kayan Tattoo Designs 306
31. Berantu Ceremony of the Orang Bukit 307
32. Butiong in a Lelak House 333
33. Sarcophagus of a Boy in a Barawan House 334
34. Praying to a Pig in a Barawan House 336
35. Mount Dulit from Long Aaiah Kechil 347
36. Long Sulan 361
37. Kedaman and Kelebong at Long Sulan 362
38. Stone Implements from the Baram District, Sarawak 369
39. Magical Stone Hook 371
40. Figure-heads of Canoes, Baram District 407
All the above illustrations except Figs. 13, 14, 17, and 19 were drawn by
the Author.
LIST OF MAPS
PAGE
Map of Torres Straits 13
Sketch Map of British New Guinea 195
Map of the Central District, British New Guinea 237
Map of the Mekeo District, British New Guinea 263
Sketch Map of the Baram District, Sarawak 295
Geological Sketch Map of Borneo 313
THE LOST LEGION
And some of us drift to Sarawak,
And some of us drift up the Fly.
_The Seven Seas_, by RUDYARD KIPLING
HEAD-HUNTERS
BLACK, WHITE, AND BROWN
CHAPTER I
THURSDAY ISLAND TO MURRAY ISLAND
We arrived at Torres Straits early in the morning of April 22nd, 1898,
and dropped anchor off Friday Island, as the steamers of the Ducal
Line are not allowed now to tie up at the hulk at Thursday Island.
Shortly afterwards we were met by the Hon. John Douglas, the Resident
Magistrate, and Dr. Salter, both of whom were old friends who had shown
me much kindness during my previous expedition. They were accompanied by
Seligmann, who had left London some months previously in order to visit
Australia, and as a handsel had already done a little work on a hitherto
unknown tribe of North Queensland natives.
The township of Thursday Island, or Port Kennedy, as it is officially
termed, had increased considerably during the past decade. This
was partly due to the natural growth of the frontier town of North
Queensland, and partly to the fact that it has become a fortified port
which commands the only safe passage for large vessels through these
dangerous straits. So assiduous have been the coral polyps in defending
the northernmost point of Australia, that although the straits measure
some eighty miles between Cape York and the nearest coast of New Guinea,
what with islands and the very extensive series of intricate coral reefs,
there is only one straightforward passage for vessels of any size, and
that is not more than a quarter of a mile wide.
Although the town has increased in size its character has not altered to
any considerable extent. It is still the same assemblage of corrugated
iron and wooden buildings which garishly broil under a tropical sun,
unrelieved by that vegetation which renders beautiful so many tropical
towns. It is true a little planting has been done, but the character
of the soil, or perhaps the absence of sufficient water, render those
efforts melancholy rather than successful.
Many of the old desert lots are now occupied by stores and
lodging-houses. The characteristic mountains of eviscerated tins,
kerosine cases, and innumerable empty bottles which betoken a thirsty
land, have been removed and cast into the sea. Thriving two- or
three-storied hotels proclaim increase in trade and comparative luxury.
There is the same medley of nationalities—British, Colonial, French,
German, Scandinavian, Greek, and other European job lots, in addition to
an assortment from Asia and her islands. As formerly, the Pacific islands
are well represented, and a few Torres Straits islanders are occasionally
to be seen. Some of the latter are resident as policemen, others visit
the island to sell pearl-shell, bêche-de-mer, and sometimes a little
garden produce, and to purchase what they need from the stores.
One great change in the population is very striking, and that is the
great preponderance of the Japanese. So far as I remember they were few
in number ten years previously, and were, I believe, outnumbered by the
Manila men; now they form the bulk of the population, much to the disgust
of most of the Europeans and Colonials. Various reasons are assigned
for this jealousy of the Japanese, and different grounds are taken for
asserting that the influx should be checked, and restrictions enforced on
those who have already settled.
It appeared to me that the bed-rock of discontent was in the fact that
the Japanese beat the white men at their own game, mainly because they
live at a lower rate than do the white men. A good proportion of the
pearl-shelling industry is now carried on by the Japanese, who further
play into each other’s hands as far as possible. A good example of their
enterprise is shown by the fact that they have now cut out the white
boat-builders. A few years ago, I was informed, some Japanese took to
boat-building and built their first boats from printed directions in some
English manual. Their first craft were rather clumsy, but they discovered
their mistakes, and now they turn out very satisfactory sailing boats.
It is impossible not to feel respect for men who combine brains with
diligence, and who command success by frugality and combination.
The white men grumble that the Japanese spend so little in the colony
and send their money away; but the very same white men admit they
would themselves clear out as soon as they had made their pile. Their
intentions are the same as are the performances of the Japanese; but the
white men cannot, under the present conditions, make a fortune quickly,
and certain of them cannot keep what they do make. There are white men
acting as divers for coloured men’s pay who some years ago owned boats of
their own. The fall in value of pearl-shell a few years since is scarcely
the sole reason for this change of fortune; bad management and drink have
a good deal to answer for.
Some white men contend that as this is a British colony, and has been
developed by British capital and industry, the Japanese should not be
allowed to reap the benefit; but a similar argument might be applied to
many of the industrial enterprises of the British in various parts of the
world. As an outsider, it appears to me that it is some of those very
qualities that have made the British colonist what he is that manifest
themselves in the Japanese. In other words, the Japanese are feared
because they are so British in many ways, saving perhaps the British
expensive mode of life. It is probably largely this latter factor that
renders the Japanese such deadly competitors.
Formerly there were in Torres Straits regular bêche-de-mer and copra
industries, now there is very little of the former, and none of the
latter. Large, slimy, leathery sea-slugs gorge the soft mud on the coral
reefs; these when boiled and smoke-dried shrivel into hard rough rolls,
which are exported in large numbers to China. These bêche-de-mer, or, as
the Malays call them, “tripang,” are scientifically known as Holothuria,
and are related to sea-urchins and starfish. Copra is the dried kernel of
the coconut.
When one walks about the township and sees the amount of capital
invested, and when one considers what is spent and how much money is sent
away, it is hard to realise that all this wealth comes out of pearl-shell
and pearls. During the past thirty years very many thousands of pounds
have been made out of pearl-shell in Torres Straits; but now the waters
have been overfished, and unless measures are taken to protect the pearl
oysters, the harvest will become yet scantier and scantier. In any case
the time for big hauls and rapid fortunes is probably over.
About the year 1890 gold was found in some of the islands, but I believe
that the working only pays in one island, though it may be resumed at
Horn Island, which at one time promised to be a lucrative goldfield.
At Thursday Island we met with much helpful kindness. Mr. Douglas
entertained a couple of us, and did all he could to expedite matters.
Unfortunately he was then without a steamer, and so could not tranship
us and our gear to Murray Island, which otherwise he would have gladly
done. It took a week to overhaul our baggage, get in stores, and to
arrange about transport, and eventually I arranged with Neil Andersen to
take us across; but even then there was neither room for all our baggage
nor accommodation for the whole of our party. Rivers, Ray, and Seligmann
and myself went on in the _Freya_, leaving the others to follow in the
_Governor Cairns_, an official schooner that was shortly to start for
Darnley Island.
It was not till the late afternoon of Saturday, April 30th, that we
actually started, and then we were only able to beat up the passage
between Thursday Island and Hammond Island, and anchored about six
o’clock in the lee of Tuesday Island. There are very strong tides between
these islands, and I have seen even a large ocean steamer steaming full
speed against a tide race, and only just able to hold her own, much less
make way against it.
The _Freya_ was a ketch, a kind of fore-and-aft schooner, 47 feet 6
inches long and 11 feet 2 inches in the beam, and could carry about
twenty tons of cargo. We had a strange medley of races on board—European
skipper and passengers, our Javanese “boy,” the Japanese diver, two
Polynesian sailors from Rotumah, and three Papuans from Parama, near the
mouth of the Fly River. Our captain was a fine, big man, probably a good
type of the Dubhgaill, or “black (dark) strangers,” who a thousand years
ago ravaged the southern and eastern coast of Ireland as far north as
Dublin. We “turned in” early—this consisted in wrapping oneself up in a
blanket, extemporising a pillow, and lying on the deck.
Left Tuesday Island at 4 a.m. in a stiff breeze and chopping sea,
and so could only make Dungeness Island by 4 p.m. Twelve hours to go
fifty-five miles! We landed at the mangrove swamp, but there was little
of interest. We hoped to have reached Darnley Island next day, but only
fetched Rennel Island by 5.30 p.m. This is a large vegetated sandbank, on
which we found traces of occupation, mainly where the natives had camped
when bêche-de-mer fishing. We all suffered a good deal from sunburnt
feet, the scorching by the sun being aggravated by the salt water. Some
of our party were still seasick; one lay on the deck as limp as damp
blotting-paper, and let the seas break over him without stirring even a
finger. We had a wet night of it, what with the rain from above and the
sea-water swishing in at the open stern and flooding the sleepers on the
deck.
We made an early start next morning and reached Erub, or Darnley Island,
at three in the afternoon. Immediately on landing I went to Massacre Bay
to photograph the stratified volcanic ash that occurs only at this spot
in the island, and which is the sole visible remains of the crater of an
old volcano. The rest of the island is composed of basalt, which rises
to a height of over 500 feet, and is well wooded and fertile—indeed,
it is perhaps the most beautiful island in Torres Straits. Save for
rocky headlands which separate lovely little coves fringed with white
coral sand, the whole coast is skirted with groves of coconut palms and
occasional patches of mangroves. The almost impenetrable jungle clothes
the hills, except at those spots that have been cleared for “gardens.”
Even the tops of the hills are covered with trees.
Very shortly after landing, a fine, honest-faced Murray Island native,
Alo by name, who was visiting Erub, came up and greeted me very warmly.
I regret to say I had quite forgotten him, but he perfectly remembered
me, and he beamed with pleasure at seeing me. We walked along the coast
to the village where the chief lives, and saw Captain H⸺, and I made
arrangements with Koko Lifu, a South Sea man, to lighter our goods off
the _Governor Cairns_ and to take the cargo and our three comrades to
Murray Island.
Captain H⸺ is one of those remarkable men one so constantly meets in
out-of-the-way places. It is the common man one comes across at home.
On the confines of savagery and civilisation one meets the men who
have dared and suffered, rugged like broken quartz, and maybe as hard
too, but withal streaked with gold—ay, and good gold too. Captain H⸺
started in life as a middy in the Navy; owing to a tiff with his people
he quitted the Service and entered the Merchant Service. He advanced
quickly, and when still very young obtained a command. He has made
two fortunes, and lost both owing to bank failures, and is at present
a ruined old recluse, living on a remote island along with Papuans,
Polynesians, and other races that now inhabit Erub. He is a kind of
Government Agent, and patrols the deep-water fishing grounds. I have
previously mentioned that the ordinary fishing grounds for pearl-shell
are practically exhausted, and the shellers have to go further afield or
have to dive in deeper water in order to get large shells. Near Darnley
Island are some good fishing grounds, but the water is so deep as to
render the fishing dangerous to life, and the Queensland Government has
prohibited fishing in these waters. There are, however, always a number
of men who are willing to run the risk for the sake of increased gain,
and it is all they can do to dodge the vigilance of the wary old sea-dog.
Captain H⸺ lives entirely by himself, and has no intercourse with the
natives beyond what is absolutely necessary. He puts in his spare time in
attending to his gardens and reading. Amongst other accomplishments he is
a fluent speaker of French and Italian, and it was a strange experience
to meet a weather-worn old man in frontier dishabille acting and speaking
like a refined gentleman.
As on previous nights, except the first, Andersen made a tent for us on
board the _Freya_ out of the mainsail, the boom forming the ridge-pole.
Ontong, the cook I had engaged at Thursday Island, woke us up at 2.30
a.m. to tell us tea was ready, and it was too! The pungent smell of the
smoke prevented me from going to sleep for some time. In the morning
Ontong said he thought it was “close up daylight”; and with an energy
which is not usually credited to the Oriental character, he had made tea
so as to be prepared for an early start.
We started early next morning with Alo as pilot; for the coral reefs
between Darnley and Murray are extensive, intricate, and mainly
uncharted. Andersen started for the “big passage” that large boats always
take; but after some time it was discovered that Alo did not know this
passage, but another one to the south-west of Darnley. As half the tide
had by this time turned and the weather was very squally and the reefs
could not be seen with certainty, we returned to our old anchorage by
9.30, and so another day was lost. We spent a lazy day to give our sore
legs a rest. Alo left us in the evening, as he said he was “sick.” The
truth was he did not care about the job, so Andersen went ashore and
brought another pilot, named Spear. His father was a native of Parama;
his mother was an Erub woman. Spear told us he had first married a Murray
Island girl, and then half a dozen New Guinea women; but Dr. Macfarlane,
the pioneer missionary in these parts, had made him “chuck” the latter.
Next day we started betimes, and sailed down channels in the reefs not
marked in the charts. The day was dull, and the little wind was southerly
when we wanted it easterly, whereas the previous day the reverse was
the case. Later it became squally with rain, and finding it hopeless to
reach Murray Island, Spear piloted us to a sheltered spot in the lee of
a reef and close to a sandbank. We were only about four miles from our
destination, and we could hear the roaring of the breakers of the Pacific
Ocean as they dashed themselves against the Great Barrier Reef ten miles
distant.
We had a very disturbed night. About eight o’clock, whilst we were
yarning, the skipper jumped up and said the anchor was dragging. Then
ensued a scene of intense excitement, as we were close not only to the
sandbank, but also to a jagged coral reef. It was horrid to feel the boat
helplessly drifting, for not only were the sails down, but the mainsail
was unlashed below to make our tent, and further, it was tied down in
various places. The first thing to do was to haul up the anchor, and furl
the jib and mainsail, and unship the tent. We all lent a hand to the
best of our ability, and soon we were sailing down the narrow passage.
Andersen’s voice was hoarse and trembling with excitement, but he kept
perfectly cool, and he never lost his temper, though in the confusion and
babel of tongues some lost their heads through fright and did not do the
right thing at the right moment, and each of the crew was ordering the
others about in his own language.
After sailing about a little we made another attempt to anchor, and again
the anchor dragged and we had another little cruise. Again we tried and
again we failed, and it may be imagined that our sensations were not
of a very cheerful nature, as we were in a really grave predicament;
sometimes we actually sailed over the reef, and might any moment have
knocked a hole in the ship’s bottom or have become stranded. If he could
not effect an anchorage, two courses were open to Andersen. One was to
cruise about all night, and it was very dark, keeping the reef in sight,
or rather sailing up and down the passage, for if he had sailed out
into the open he would probably strike a reef or coral patch that was
unnoticed. The second alternative was to run the boat on to the sandbank
and let it float off at high water in the morning. The reason why we
drifted was because the anchor was let down on a steep gravelly slope,
and the movement of the boat, which was naturally away from the bank,
prevented the flukes from getting a firm grip.
On the fourth essay the anchor was put on the sandbank in a depth of
three fathoms while we swung in fourteen or fifteen fathoms. After
waiting some time in anxiety, we found to our relief that the anchor
held, and we wrapped ourselves up in our blankets and slept on deck,
pretty well exhausted. We had such confidence in the skill and alertness
of Andersen, whom we knew to be a pre-eminently safe man, that we soon
composed ourselves and slept soundly.
_Friday, May 6th._—Again the wind was against us and the weather was
squally, and it was not till one o’clock that we dropped anchor off the
Mission premises at Murray Island.
I have briefly described our tedious trip to Murray Island, not because
there was anything at all unusual in it, but merely to give some idea of
the difficulty and uncertainty in sailing in these waters. There is no
need, therefore, for surprise at the isolation of Murray Island, a fact
which had influenced me in deciding to make it the scene of our more
detailed investigations.
On landing we were welcomed by Mr. John Bruce, the schoolmaster and
magistrate. He is the only white man now resident on the island, and
he plays a paternal part in the social life of the people. I was very
affectionately greeted by Ari the Mamoose, or chief of the island, and by
my old friend Pasi, the chief of the neighbouring island of Dauar, and we
walked up and down the sand beach talking of old times, concerning which
I found Pasi’s memory was far better than mine.
I found that one of the two Mission residences on the side of the hill
that were there ten years before was still standing and was empty, so
I decided to occupy that, although it was rather dilapidated; and it
answered our purpose admirably. The rest of the day and all the next was
busily spent in landing our stuff and in unpacking and putting things
to rights. We slept the first night at Bruce’s house, which is on the
strand. When I went up next morning to our temporary home I found that
the Samoan teacher Finau and his amiable wife had caused the house to
be swept, more or less, and had put down mats, and placed two brightly
coloured tablecloths on the table, which was further decorated with two
vases of flowers! It seemed quite homely, and was a delicate attention
that we much appreciated.
I engaged two natives, Jimmy Rice and Debe Wali, to get wood and water
for us and to help Ontong. We had various vicissitudes with these two
“boys,” but we retained them all through our stay, and they afforded us
much amusement, no little instruction, and a very fair amount of moral
discipline. The legs of two of our party were still so sore that they had
to be carried up the hill, and on Saturday night we were established in
our own quarters, and eager to commence the work for which we had come so
far.
We had a deal of straightening up to do on Sunday morning, but I found
time to go half-way down the hill to the schoolhouse, and was again
impressed, as on my former visit, with the heartiness of the singing,
which was almost deafening. The congregation waited for me to go out
first, and I stood at the door and shook hands with nearly all the
natives of the island as they came down the steps, and many were the old
friends I greeted. I invited them to come up and see some photographs
after the afternoon service.
We made the place as tidy as possible, and we had a great reception in
the afternoon. Nearly all my old friends that were still alive turned
up, besides many others. To their intense and hilarious delight I showed
them some of the photographs I had taken during my last visit, not only
of themselves, but also of other islands in the Straits. We had an
immense time. The yells of delight, the laughter, clicking, flicking of
the teeth, beaming faces and other expressions of joy as they beheld
photographs of themselves or of friends would suddenly change to tears
and wailing when they saw the portrait of someone since deceased. It was
a steamy and smelly performance, but it was very jolly to be again among
my old friends, and equally gratifying to find them ready to take up our
friendship where we had left it.
Next morning when we were yarning with some natives others solemnly came
one by one up the hill with bunches of bananas and coconuts, and soon
there was a great heap of garden produce on the floor. By this time the
verandah was filled with natives, men and women, and I again showed the
photographs, but not a word was said about the fruit. They looked at the
photographs over and over again, and the men added to the noise made by
the women. On this occasion there was more crying, which, however, was
enlivened with much hilarity. Then the Mamoose told Pasi to inform me in
English, for the old man has a very imperfect command even of the jargon
English that is spoken out here, that the stack of bananas and coconuts
was a present to me. I made a little speech in reply, and they slowly
dispersed.
On Tuesday evening McDougall, Myers, and Wilkin arrived, and our party
was complete.