Cineraria. Formerly this was a troublesome plant to grow, because it
was considered necessary to propagate named varieties by divisions and
suckers. The restricted system was reflected in limited cultivation.
Few were willing to venture on a task known to be hedged about with
difficulties. By degrees it was discovered that the finest Cinerarias
might be secured by simply sowing seed, and giving the plants the usual
cultivation of tender annuals. This has brought the Cineraria within
the reach of thousands who would not attempt to grow it under the old
system, and the consequent gain to society is immense.
What has been done with the Cineraria has its parallel in quite a
number of the most elegant decorative flowers. Brilliant results have
been achieved with Begonias, Calceolarias, Cyclamens, Gloxinias,
Primulas, and Schizanthus. It has also ceased to be needful to keep
such large stocks of bedding and other plants through the winter, for
Ageratums, Lobelias, and Pansies have proved amenable to the new
treatment, and very much of the accustomed labour in striking and
potting cuttings, as well as the expense of glass, fuel, and the
frequent purchase of high-priced plants, have been rendered
unnecessary. Even among the flowers which are properly designated
annuals, new and delightful variations have been obtained from original
types. Of these we have examples in Aster, Godetia, Larkspur,
Mignonette, Phlox Drummondii, Poppy, Stock, Sweet Pea, and many others.
In some instances the increase in the size of the flowers is
remarkable, and in others the development of new tints will surprise
those who are not familiar with the labours of modern hybridisers.
Thus a revolution has been accomplished in the economy and complexion
of the English Flower Garden, a revolution which has reduced and
simplified the gardener’s labours, augmented the number and enhanced
the beauty of many flowers, effected a marked saving in the cost of
garden pleasures, and brought the culture of a large number of the most
attractive subjects within the means of those who had neither the
facilities nor the knowledge requisite for pursuing the florist’s
methods. There appear to be no limits to further progress. All that we
can do is to experiment and gather knowledge, and those who love
gardening may assist in extending the area of this new and cheap system
of producing some of the most elegant garden flowers in one season from
seed alone.
The time and the method of sowing flower seeds must in each case be
regulated by considerations as to their nature. Seeds of tender plants
are usually sown in pots or pans and placed on a moderate hot-bed or in
a propagating house early in spring, and in this case the plants have
greenhouse cultivation until the time arrives for hardening them off
preparatory to final planting. But seeds of many hardy flowers may be
treated in the same way, when a long season of growth is necessary for
their development. Thus Phloxes, Verbenas, and Hollyhocks, plants that
differ immensely in habit and constitution, may all be sown in
February, and put side by side in the same warm pit or vinery, or even
in the warmest corner of any greenhouse, and the very same treatment
will suit them equally well. The soil should be principally loam and
sand, with a little old thoroughly well-rotted manure from a hot-bed or
compost heap; and light, air, and moisture must be regulated with a
view to insure a free and vigorous growth from the first, with the
least possible amount of artificial heat. In some cases, however, the
sowing should be deferred to March or April, and the result will be far
more satisfactory than the growth made under the stimulus of artificial
heat earlier in the season. But in every case the plants must have
sufficient time; for although the rapid system has been developed, the
constitution of the plants remains unchanged, and those which have
heretofore been classed as biennials and perennials need a long season
when treated as annuals.
A considerable proportion of the finest flowers may be raised from seed
by the aid of a frame and a little careful management. We will take as
an example a very restricted garden. Here is a small frame and some
packets of seed, and the month of February or March has arrived. The
pans and pots are made ready with sweet sandy compost, and the seeds
are sown and labelled, and the pans and pots are packed together in the
frame on a bed of clean coal ashes, or some slates, or tiles, or bricks
laid on the soil, to promote warmth and cleanliness and to prevent the
intrusion of worms among the seeds. By simple management almost as
quick a growth of seeds can be insured in this frame as with the aid of
a hot-bed, and the secret consists in careful storage of the heat of
the sun. Lay over the seed-pans sheets of glass to prevent evaporation,
and let the sun shine full upon them. Be careful as to moisture: they
must never be wet, never dry, and the water must not be slopped about
carelessly. It is a good rule to immerse the pots or pans in a vessel
containing soft water, slightly tepid. When the seedlings begin to
appear, give a little air and lay sheets of paper tenderly over them
during the hour or two at midday when the sun may be shining brightly.
But keep them from the first as ‘hard’ as possible with plenty of light
and air, always taking care that they are neither roasted, nor blown
away by the cruel east wind, nor nipped at night by a killing frost. A
few old mats or light loppings of trees laid over the frame from
sundown to sunrise will be sufficient protection at those trying times;
and when spring frosts are making havoc with the tender sprouting leaf
and bloom in every part of the garden those little things will be safe
under their glass cover, and slight experience will show that a common
frame may become a miniature hot-house in the hands of one who has
learned to make failure the stepping-stone to success. We must not omit
to mention that the owner of such a garden, or, indeed, of any garden,
will be prudent to take advantage of the first fine weather to sow in
the open ground whatever flower or vegetable seeds should be sown at
that season. The frame garden can be reserved, if needful, for wet
weather, because it is of the utmost importance to sow a good breadth
of seeds in the open ground as early as possible in the month of March.
Turning from this small example to the great garden, it will be obvious
that to those who always have heavy work on hand the advantages of this
transference, of labour from the old system to the new are immense.
Both to employers and gardeners the advantages are of importance; the
propagation of bedders by cuttings, and of florists’ flowers by suckers
and divisions and layers and pipings, will not, of course, be
completely abolished; but for all ordinary purposes the ends in view
may be accomplished more simply, more expeditiously, and more cheaply
than heretofore. The pits hitherto appropriated to bedders, and the
like, may to a great extent be liberated, and there will be no
difficulty in finding for them more profitable occupants. While
Mushrooms and early Potatoes and winter salads are in request, it will
be a gain to many a garden to have reduced the summer display of
flowers to a simple system of seed-sowing, at an expense that may be
described as merely nominal.
Before dealing specifically with certain flowers, it may be advisable
to say a few words generally concerning the culture of Annuals—Hardy,
Half-hardy, and Tender—and also on hardy Biennials and Perennials.
Annuals.—Although the most popular kinds of annuals are largely
employed in the embellishment of flower gardens, they are adapted for
many uses to which they may with advantage be more frequently applied.
A few misconceptions prevail as to the relative merits of this class of
plants. By some they are regarded as ‘weedy’ and ‘short-lived.’ Their
very cheapness, and the relatively small amount of skill required in
their cultivation, tend in some degree to detract from their value in
public estimation. We will not be so rash as to say that a more
extended use of annuals would render unnecessary the cultivation of
what are especially known as ‘bedding plants’; but there is something
to be said on behalf of annuals that may be worth the consideration of
all who are interested in the development of freshness, variety, and
richness of colour in the flower garden. In the first place, these
plants come into flower within a comparatively short period of time
from the sowing of the seed, and it is a matter of considerable
importance that a large proportion of the best continue beautiful until
the very close of the season. Sometimes in the autumn Geraniums become
literally washed out, while Tom Thumb Nasturtiums may be ablaze with
colour, and continue so when the Geraniums are housed for the winter. A
large number of showy and long-lasting annuals are adapted for
employment in bedding, and by a little management those that do not
last the season out may be replaced by others for succession; thus
affording the advantage of increased variety, and making no demand for
glass and fuel to keep them through the winter as do the ordinary
bedders. We have had great and glorious sheets of Candytufts,
snow-white, rich crimson, and bright carmine; and when they began to
wane they were removed, and the ground planted with Asters, and very
soon there was another display, so fresh and bright and various that no
greenhouse bedders could surpass them. Great hungry banks, that would
have swallowed many pounds’ worth of greenhouse plants to cover them,
have been made delightfully gay at a very trifling cost by sowing upon
them Tropæolums, Tom Thumb Nasturtiums, _Bartonia aurea_, the dwarf
varieties of _Lupinus_, Virginian Stock, _Collinsia bicolor_,
Convolvuluses, Candytufts, Eschscholtzias, Poppies, and Clarkias; and
damp, half-shady borders have been delicately tessellated by means of
Forget-me-nots, Venus’ Looking-glass, Pansies, the Rosy Oxalis,
Nemophilas, Godetias, Silenes, Coreopsis, and Scabious.
For the more important positions in the flower garden we have choice of
many really sumptuous subjects, such as Stocks, Asters, Balsams,
Drummond’s Phlox, Lobelias, the lovely new varieties of Antirrhinums,
Dianthus, Portulacas, Zinnias, tall Stock-flowered Larkspurs, Nemesias,
and many other flowers equally beautiful and lasting. We do not hope by
these brief remarks to change the prevailing fashion—indeed, we have no
particular wish that way—but we feel bound to observe that it is
sufficient for the beauty of the garden that the greenhouse bedders
should be confined to the parterre proper. It is waste of space and
opportunity to place them in the borders everywhere, as is too commonly
done. In sunny borders, annual and perennial herbaceous plants are far
more appropriate.
Some time since, while walking over a large garden, we left the rich
colouring of the geometric beds to discover what should make the
wondrous glow of crimson on a border far away; and to our surprise it
proved to be a clump of the Indian Pink, which had been sown as an
annual with other annuals, and was there shining in the midst of a
constellation of the loveliest flowers of all forms and hues, the
result simply of sowing a few packets of seed. No one can despise the
Wallflower in the spring, and the heavenly-blue flowers of _Nemophila
insignis_ in early summer will tempt many a one to walk in the garden
who would care little for sheets of scarlet and yellow that in full
sunshine make the eyes ache to look upon them. It must be remembered,
too, that among annuals are found many most richly-scented flowers;
others, like the everlastings and the grasses, are valuable to dry for
winter use for employment in bouquets, and garlands in Christmas
decorations; and the Sweet Peas, and _Tropæolum canariense,_ and
climbing Convolvulus may be employed to cover arbours and trellises
with the best effect possible, and may even be allowed to hang in
festoons about the sunny parts of rockeries, or trail over the ground
to make genuine bedding effects. Another important matter must have
mention here, and we commend it to the consideration of gardeners who
are severely taxed to secure extensive displays of flowers during the
summer season. It is that a number of plants of highly ornamental
character, usually treated as perennials, are really more effective,
besides occasioning less labour to produce them, when cultivated as
annuals. The Dianthus and its several splendid varieties do better as
annuals than biennials. For all the ordinary purposes of display,
Lobelias may be as well grown from seed as from cuttings, and in every
garden will be found proof of the small amount of care they require;
for we find stray, self-sown plants in pots of Geraniums and other
places, and these, if left alone, become perfect bushes, and are a mass
of flowers all the summer. Many annuals commonly reputed to be tender
and usually raised in heat do very well indeed on a more rough and
ready method. In proof of this, sow _Perilla nankinensis_ in the first
week of May where it is required, and in the month of July you will
probably be convinced that Perilla does not always need careful nursing
in heated houses through the spring. Even the really tender Castor-oil
Plant will thrive if sown in the open ground the first week in May.
Having no check, as plants put out from pots must have, the growth will
be regular and sturdy, and attain magnificent dimensions.
Perhaps the most effective way of growing annuals is to arrange them in
harmonious blendings or contrasts of colour. The wide choice of
varieties available admits of an almost endless number of combinations,
and the following tables, classified according to colour, will no doubt
afford some serviceable suggestions, although these by no means exhaust
the list. The height is indicated in feet and Climbers as ‘Cl.’
WHITE, AND CREAM SHADES.
TALL.
Chrysanthemum coronarium, Princess May 3
Chrysanthemum coronarium, Double white 3
Cornflower, White 3
Helichrysum, Silver Globe 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, White 3
Lavatera alba splendens 3
Poppy, Giant Double, White 3
Poppy Giant Single, White 3
Scabious, Snowball 3
Chrysanthemum carinatum album 2-1/2
Chrysanthemum Dunnetti, Double white 2-1/2
Nasturtium, Tall, Pearl Cl.
MEDIUM.
Clarkia elegans, Snowball 2
Lupinus Hartwegii, White 2
Malope, White 2
Poppy, White Swan 2
Shirley, Double White 2
Calendula pluvialis 1-1/2
Chrysanthemum inodorum plenissimum
Clarkia, Double White 1-1/2
Gilia nivalis 1-1/2
Gypsophila elegans 1-1/2
Hawkweed, White 1-1/2
Hawkweed Silver 1-1/2
Jacobea, Double, White 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Giant White 1-1/2
Chrysanthemum coronarium,
Dwarf double white 1-1/4
DWARF.
Acroclinium, Single White 1
Candytuft, Improved White Spiral 1
Clarkia, Dwarf white 1
Clarkia Double dwarf white 1
Convolvulus minor, White 1
Eschscholtzia crocea alba 1
Godetia, Duchess of Albany 1
Layia elegans alba 1
Linaria, Snow-white 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Pearl 1
Platystemon californicus 1
Viscaria, Pure White 1
Alyssum, Sweet 3/4
Chrysanthemum inodorum plenis-simum,
Bridal Robe 3/4
Collinsia candidissima 3/4
Godetia, Dwarf White 3/4
Swan River Daisy, White 3/4
Swan River Daisy Star White 3/4
Venus’ Looking-glass, White 3/4
Venus’ Navel-wort 3/4
Virginian Stock, White 3/4
Candytuft, Little Prince 1/2
Nemophila insignis alba 1/2
Alyssum minimum 1/3
Silene, Dwarf White 1/3
YELLOW AND ORANGE SHADES
TALL.
Sunflower, Giant Yellow 10
Sunflower Primrose Perfection 6
Sunflower Miniature 4
Sunflower Stella 4
Sunflower Primrose Stella 4
Chrysanthemum coronarium,
Chrysanthemum Double yellow 3
Chrysanthemum, Golden Queen 3
Coreopsis tinctoria 3
Helichrysum, Golden Globe 3
Sunflower, Dwarf Double 3
Sunflower Single Dwarf 3
Chrysanthemum Dunnettii,
Chrysanthemum Double Golden 2-1/2
Marigold, African 2-1/2
Nasturtium, Ivy-leaved Golden Gem Cl.
Nasturtium, Tall, Yellow Cl.
MEDIUM.
Hibiscus africanus major 2
Bartonia aurea 1-1/2
Chrysanthemum, Star varieties 1-1/2
Coreopsis Drummondii 1-1/2
Coreopsis coronata 1-1/2
Erysimum, Orange Gem 1-1/2
Hawkweed, Yellow 1-1/2
Leptosyne Stillmani 1-1/2
Lupinus Menziesii 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Yellow 1-1/2
DWARF.
Calendula, Orange King 1
Calendula Lemon Queen 1
Cheiranthus Allionii 1
Chrysanthemum coronarium,
Chrysanthemum coronarium, Dwarf double yellow 1
Dimorphotheca aurantiaca 1
Eschscholtzia californica 1
Escholtzia, crocea 1
Escholtzia, crocea fl. pl. 1
Eschscholtzia, Mikado 3/4
Layia elegans 1
Lupinus, Dwarf yellow 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Cloth of Gold 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Yellow 1
Tagetes signata pumila 1
Tagetes Mandarin 3/4
Linaria, Golden Gem 3/4
Marigold, Miniature orange 3/4
Marigold Miniature orange 3/4
Eschscholtzia, Miniature Primrose 1/2
Limnanthes Douglasii 1/2
Sanvitalia procumbens, Single 1/2
Sanvitalia Double 1/2
Leptosiphon aureus 1/4
BLUE, MAUVE, AND PURPLE SHADES.
TALL.
Cornflower, Blue 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Blue 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Pale Mauve 3
Lupinus, Tall dark blue 3
Poppy, Giant Double, Mauve 3
Scabious, Mauve 3
MEDIUM.
Godetia, Double Mauve 2
Lupinus Hartwegii, Azure Blue 2
Poppy, Mauve Queen 2
Sweet Sultan, Purple 2
Xeranthemum superbissimum 2
Xeranthemum imperiale 2
Anchusa, Annual Blue 1-1/2
Gilia capitata 1-1/2
Gilia tricolour 1-1/2
Jacobea, Double, Purple 1-1/2
Nigella, Miss Jekyll 1-1/2
Phacelia tanacetifolia 1-1/2
Salvia, Blue Beard 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Giant Delicate Mauve 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Giant Mauve 1-1/2
DWARF.
Asperula azurea setosa 1
Candytuft, Lilac 1
Convolvulus minor, Dark blue 1
Convolvulus Sky-blue 1
Cornflower, King of Blue Bottles 1
Eutoca viscida 1
Linaria, Mauve 1
Lupinus, Dwarf rich blue 1
Mathiola bicornis 1
Phacelia congesta 1
Viscaria, Bright Blue 1
Whitlavia gloxinioides 1
Cornflower, Victoria, Dwarf blue 3/4
Leptosiphon androsaceus 3/4
Nigella, Double dwarf 3/4
Phacelia campanularia 3/4
Swan River Daisy, Blue 3/4
Swan River Daisy, Star Blue 3/4
Campanula attica 1/2
Nemophila insignis 1/2
PINK AND ROSE SHADES
TALL.
Cornflower, Pink 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Rosy Scarlet 3
Lavatera rosea splendens 3
Lupinus mutabilis, Cream and Pink 3
Poppy, Giant Double, Chamois-rose 3
Scabious, Pink 3
Nasturtium, Salmon Queen Cl.
Nasturtium, Rosy Queen Cl.
MEDIUM.
Clarkia elegans, Double Salmon 2
Clarkia elegans, Double Delicate Pink 2
Godetia, Double Rose 2
Jacobea, Single, Bright Rose 2
Poppy, Pink Gem 2
Poppy, Cardinal, Salmon-pink 2
Poppy, Shirley, Single Rose-pink 2
Poppy, Shirley, Double Pink 2
Saponaria Vaccaria, Pink 2
Clarkia, Double Rose 1-1/2
Hawkweed, Pink 1-1/2
Jacobea, Double, Rose 1-1/2
Silene Armeria, Rose 1-1/2
Statice Suworowi 1-1/4
DWARF.
Acroclinium, Double rose 1
Acrolinium, Single rose 1
Convolvulus minor, Pink 1
Eschscholtzia, Frilled Pink 1
Escholtzia, Rosy Queen 1
Escholtzia, Rose cardinal 1
Gypsophila elegans, Delicate pink 1
Lupinus, Dwarf delicate pink 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Salmon Pink 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, cæruleum roseum 1
Silene, Double Salmon Pink 1
Silene, Double Delicate Pink 1
Silene, Bonetti 1
Silene, Pseudo-Atocion 1
Statice spicata 1
Viscaria, Delicate Pink 1
Cornflower, Victoria, Dwarf rose 3/4
Godetia, Dwarf Pink 3/4
Godetia, Satin-rose 3/4
Abronia umbellata 1/2
Candytuft, Dwarf Pink 1/2
Saponaria calabrica 1/2
Silene, Double Dwarf Delicate Pink 1/3
Silene, Double Dwarf Brilliant Rose 1/3
Silene, Bonetti, Dwarf Pink 1/3
Leptosiphon roseus 1/4
CRIMSON AND SCARLET SHADES,
including Carmine and Ruby.
TALL.
Coreopsis atrosanguinea 3
Helichrysum, Fireball 3
Poppy, Giant Double, Scarlet 3
Polygonum, Ruby Gem 2-1/2
Malope, Red 2
Nasturtium, Tall, Improved Lucifer Cl.
Nasturtium, Tall, Black Prince Cl.
MEDIUM.
Chrysanthemum atrococcineum 2
Clarkia elegans, Salmon scarlet 2
Clarkia elegans, Firefly 2
Godetia, Double Crimson 2
Poppy, Cardinal 2
Cacalia coccinea 1-1/2
Coreopsis cardaminigolia Dwarf 1-1/2
DWARF.
Candytuft, Improved Carmine 1
Candytuft, Dark crimson 1
Centranthus macrosiphon 1
Godetia, Crimson King 1
Godetia, Scarlet Queen 1
Godetia, Lady Albemarle 1
Linum grandifiorum rubrum 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Scarlet Queen 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, King Theodore 1
Naturtium, King of Tom Thumbs 1
Viscaria cardinalis 1
Collomia coccinea 3/4
Coreopsis, Dwarf Crimson 3/4
Eschscholtzia, Ruby King 3/4
Godetia, Afterglow 3/4
Godetia, Lady Albemarle, dwarf 3/4
Saponaria, Scarlet Queen 1/2
Virginian Stock, Crimson King 1/2
Viscaria, Dwarf Carmine 1/2
Yet one other method of growing annuals calls for special mention. It
is not fully recognised that a number of subjects, usually associated
only with beds and borders, may also be flowered with the greatest ease
under glass in winter and early spring. Those who have not hitherto
attempted the culture of annuals in this way will be delighted with the
charming effects produced. Among the subjects most suitable for the
purpose are Alonsoa; the Star and Dunnettii varieties of Annual
Chrysanthemum; _Clarkia elegans; _ Dimorphotheca; _Gypsophila elegans_;
Linaria; _Nemesia Suttoni_; Nicotiana, Miniature White and _N.
affinis_; Phlox, Purity, one of the most lovely pot plants for the
conservatory and of especial value for decorative work at Easter;
Salpiglossis; and the pretty blue, Cineraria-like, Swan River Daisy.
From the fact that these annuals are of the hardy or half-hardy types
it will be readily understood that no great amount of heat is required
to bring them to maturity; indeed, the more hardy the treatment the
better for their well-doing. Seed should be sown during August or
September in pots or pans placed in a cool frame, the seedlings being
pricked off into other pots as soon as they have attained a suitable
size. As colder weather approaches, transfer to the greenhouse or
conservatory, and provided the night temperature is not allowed to fall
below 45° all should be well. During the day give the plants the
maximum of air whenever weather permits.
Hardy Annuals.—The seeds should be sown on a carefully prepared surface
from which large stones have been removed, and the clods must be
broken, but the soil should not be made so smooth as to become pasty
under rain. Sow thinly, in rows spaced to agree with the height of the
plant, cover with a very slight coat of fine dry earth—the smallest
seeds needing but a mere dusting to cover them—and, from the first,
keep the plants thinned sufficiently to prevent overcrowding.
Spring-sown annuals are worthy of a better soil than they usually have
allotted them, and also of more careful treatment. It is not wise to
sow earlier than March or later than the middle of April. In the
after-culture the most important matter is to keep the clumps well
thinned. Not only will the bloom of crowded plants be comparatively
poor and brief, but by early and bold thinning the plants will become
so robust, and cover such large spaces of ground with their ample
leafage and well-developed flowers, as really to astonish people who
think they know all about annuals, and who may have ventured after much
ill-treatment to designate them ‘fugacious and weedy.’ Although the
sowing of hardy annuals direct on to beds and borders where the plants
are wanted is economical in labour and avoids the check which
transplanting occasions, the practice of raising annuals on specially
prepared seed-beds and pricking out the plants to blooming quarters is
sometimes followed. The soil into which they are transferred for
flowering should be deeply dug, thoroughly broken up, and, if at all
poor, liberally manured. It is an excellent plan also to sow hardy
annuals outdoors in autumn, but it is needless to say more on this
subject here, as it is dealt with fully at page 313.