hoed between the rows, and if there is any fear of frost the shaws
should be lightly moulded over. As the growth advances the crop must be
earthed up, care being exercised not to earth up too much, for, taking
six inches as the best average depth, the crop will be diminished by an
increase beyond this depth. One urgent reason for early work between
the rows is that a prosperous crop will soon put a stop to it. The
moment it becomes likely that the shaws will be bruised by traffic
between the rows they must be left to finish their course in their own
way, because the formation of tubers below will be in the ratio of the
healthy growth above ground. The Potato may be said to be manufactured
out of sunshine and alkaline salts. The green leaves constitute the
machinery of the manufacture, for which the solar light from above, and
the potash, phosphate of lime, phosphate of magnesia, and phosphoric
acid from below are the raw materials.
Change of Ground and Seed.—In common with all other crops, the Potato
needs as often as possible a fresh soil, and a renewal of seed from
some distant source. The need for a change of soil is made apparent by
an analysis of the root, which contains large proportions of potash,
phosphorus, and sulphur, with smaller proportions of magnesia and lime,
without which the plant cannot prosper. A succession of heavy crops of
Potatoes on the same land may be said to take from the soil its
available potash and phosphates, and this crop will not, like some
others, take soda instead of potash when the last-named alkali runs
short. Here then is a chemical reason for change of soil. Another
reason is found in the history of the species of fungi that prey on the
Potato when its growth is checked by heavy rains and a low temperature.
These leave their spores in the soil, like wolves hiding in ambush, to
destroy the next crop. They are powerless to attack any other crop;
therefore a suitable rotation gives them time to die out and leave the
land clean as regards the _Phytophthora_ and other parasites that
destroy Potato crops. The necessity for an occasional change of seed
rests on old experience, and should scarcely need enforcing. One word
may be said here by way of explanation, and it is this: the seed house
that aims to put a good article in the market adopts measures which
altogether differ from those followed by the majority of persons who
have not been trained to the business. It is a common experience to
find that those who save their own seed from year to year have as a
result a constantly declining strain, so that every year the growth is
weaker, less true, and less profitable. It is so all through, but is
especially the case with Potatoes. We do not say that all who save
their own seed act unwisely, for some are most expert in the business.
But we do say that seed saving is not learned in a day, and many who
think they save shillings when they save seeds, actually lose pounds by
burdening themselves with a bad article. The art of ‘roguing’—the
elimination of plants which are untrue to type—is but one part of the
seed-saving process. There is the proper storing, the selecting and
sorting operations, to which eyes and hands must be trained, and there
must be no scruple about the sacrifice of false, immature or diseased
samples. The point we have in view is to advise the Potato grower to be
sure of his seed, and when a doubt arises as to the purity and
healthiness of the sample at command, it may be remembered that the
seed merchant practises methods of purgation for insuring perfectly
true stocks, while by growing in many different districts, and on
diverse soils, he can furnish an admirable change of seed for any
description of land.
The Potato Disease.—The culture of Potatoes cannot be dismissed without
allusion to the destructive fungus which is never absent in dry
seasons, and in wet summers does its deadly work on a vast scale.
Scientific men have acquainted us with the history of the Potato
fungus, and this may eventually result in as efficient a remedy as that
which renewed the vineyards of France. Such a remedy for the Potato
murrain has yet to be discovered. Meanwhile, we must continue to resist
the foe with the plough, spade, draining tool, and above all with a
wise selection of sorts. It is an acknowledged fact that many Potatoes
that have been cultivated for a long time appear to have lost their
vigour, and are liable to succumb to the disease; but several kinds
that have been raised from seed in recent years possess a constitution
which almost defies the virulent assaults of the _Phytophthora
infestans_. Since the introduction of Sutton’s Magnum Bonum Potato
there has been a disposition to believe in ‘Disease-proof Potatoes.’
There is no such thing absolutely, and perhaps there never will be, any
more than there is a disease-proof wheat, or dog, or horse, or man. But
some varieties of Potatoes are known to be more susceptible to the
ravages of disease than others, and it has been one of our aims to
secure seedlings which combine the highest cropping and table qualities
with the least tendency to succumb in seasons when conditions favour
the spread of the fungus. Scientific men have not yet explained why the
varieties differ in this respect, but practical men have discovered
that initial vigour of growth is the main defence against the plague,
and as the growing of a good Potato costs no more than the growing of a
poor variety, the cultivator should bestow his care on the very best he
can obtain. A little extra cost for seed in the first instance is as
nothing to the multiplied chances of success a good variety carries
with it. To sum up this subject, then, we say that disease may be
avoided in the early crops by cultivating sorts which may be lifted
before the plague generally appears; and on soils which will not
produce an early crop, only such varieties should be grown for the main
crops as have been proved to be most capable of standing uninjured
until late in the season. Let there be a dry, warm bed, sufficient
food, the fullest exposure to the life-giving powers of light, and
conditions favourable to early ripening.
The Wart Disease (Black Scab) of Potatoes (_Synchytrium endobioticum_,
Percival) is dealt with in the chapter on ‘The Fungus Pests of certain
Garden Plants.’
PUMPKIN—_see_ GOURD, _page 63_
RADISH
Raphanus sativus
The Radish is often badly grown through being sown too thickly, or on
lumpy ground, or in places not favourable to quick vegetation. Radishes
grown slowly become tough, pungent and worthless. On the other hand,
those which are grown quickly on rich, mellow ground are attractive in
appearance, delicate in flavour, and as digestible as any salad in
common use. It should be understood that earliness is of the very first
importance, and that large Radishes are never wanted. To insure a quick
growth and a handsome sample the ground must not only be good, but
finely broken up.
Frame Culture.—For the earliest crops it is advisable to make a
semi-hot-bed, by removing a portion of the surface soil, and laying
down about two-feet depth of half-rotten stable manure, on which spread
four inches of fine earth, and then cover with frames. Sow the seed
thinly, and put on the lights. When the plants appear, give air at
every opportunity to keep the growth dwarf, and cover with mats during
frost, always taking care to uncover as often as possible to give
light, for if the tops are drawn the roots will be of little account.
Where the plants are crowded, thin them, allowing every plant just room
enough to spread out its top without overlapping its neighbour. Sowings
made in this way in December, January, and February will supply an
abundance of beautiful Radishes in early spring, when they are greatly
valued. To follow the outdoor crops frame culture will again be
necessary in autumn.
Outdoor Culture.—The second crop (which in many gardens will be the
first) may be sown on warm, dry borders in February. Within a few days
after sowing, collect a quantity of dry litter, and lay it up in a shed
ready for use. It happens often that we have warm, bright weather in
February, and the Radishes start quickly and make good progress, and
then may come a severe frost, when the litter must be spread as lightly
as possible, three or four inches thick. These open-ground sowings will
bear cold well, but they should not be allowed to get frozen, and
therefore semi-hot-beds may be employed. If time and materials appear
excessive for such a purpose, it should be remembered that this is a
capital way of preparing for the next crop, whatever it may be, and is
a particularly good method of preparing for Peas that are to be sown in
the month of April, by which time the earliest sown Radishes will be
off the ground. Successive sowings should be made from March to
September in the coolest place that can be found for them, and the
usual practice of four-feet beds will answer very well. In many gardens
sufficient supplies of Radishes are obtained by sowing in the alleys
between seed-beds, but care must be taken that this plan does not
interfere with the proper work of hoeing, weeding, thinning, &c. When
seed is sown on light soils a moderate firming with the back of the
spade may be desirable, but generally speaking it is sufficient to
cover the seed lightly, and so leave it. To thin the crop early is,
however, of great importance, no matter how wasteful the process may
seem, for wherever the plants are crowded they will make large useless
tops, and small worthless roots, and prove altogether unprofitable. For
the earliest sowings we have choice of many sorts, round, oval, and
long; but the long Radishes are not well adapted for late sowing,
whereas the round and oval sorts stand pretty well in hot weather, if
on good ground in a cool situation, with the help of a slight amount of
shade. As the year advances we return to the practice recommended for
the earliest crops.
Winter Radishes.—These large-growing kinds are much prized by those who
use them in winter in the preparation of salads. Seed may be sown in
the open from June to August, in drills nine inches apart, and the
plants thinned to six inches in the rows. The roots may be left in the
ground and dug as required, or taken up and stored in sand. These
Radishes may also be cooked in the same manner as Turnips and they make
an excellent dish.
RHUBARB
Rheum hybridum
RHUBARB is so much valued that we need not recommend it. There are some
remarkably fine sorts in cultivation, adapted for early work,
main-crop, and late use.
Although an accommodating plant, Rhubarb requires for profitable
production a rich deep soil, well worked, and heavily dressed with
rotten manure, and a situation remote from trees, but in some degree
sheltered. It will be observed that the markets are supplied from
sheltered alluvial soils, that have been much cultivated, and kept in
high condition by abundant manuring. On the other hand, the coarser
kinds will make a free and early growth on a damp clay, if sheltered
from the east winds that so often damage early spring vegetation. The
shortest way to establish a plantation is to purchase selected roots of
first-class named varieties, and plant them in one long row, three to
four feet apart, or in a bed or compartment four feet apart each way.
The smaller kinds will do very well at two and a half feet each way,
but for large-growing sorts this would be injuriously close. Plant with
the top bud two inches deep, tread in moderately firm, then lightly
prick the ground over, and so leave it. Rhubarb may be planted at any
time in spring or autumn but of the two the spring is preferable. In
any case where a special cultivation is determined on, it will be found
that bone manure has a wonderful effect on the growth of Rhubarb.
It is not sufficient to say that the plantation must be kept free from
weeds, but the plant should be allowed to make one whole season’s
growth before a single stalk is pulled. And the pulling in the second
season, and every season thereafter, should be moderate and careful,
for every leaf removed weakens the plant, and it must be allowed-time
to regain strength for the next season. Some people know not when to
leave off pulling Rhubarb, but appear unwilling to cease until there is
none to pull; and it is a pity this should happen, especially as after
the delicate supplies of early spring are past, Rhubarb is a
comparatively poor thing, and to ruin a plantation to get stalks for
wine is great folly. For wine-making a special plantation should be
made, from which not one stick should be taken for table use. The
summer stalks will then be of a suitable character.
Rhubarb is easily forced in any place where there is a moderate warmth,
and it is only needful to pack the roots in boxes with moss or any
light soil, or even rough litter. The roots will push into any moist
material and find sufficient food. If entirely exposed to the light,
forced Rhubarb has a full colour; but the quality is better, and the
colour quite sufficient, if it is forced in the dark; hence when put
under the stage in a greenhouse, or any other place where there is a
fair share of daylight, it is well to put an empty box or barrel over
to promote a certain degree of blanching.
When raising Rhubarb from seed sow in spring in light soil, and the
young plants should have frame culture until strong enough to plant
out. If a great number are grown, they should all be kept in pots until
the end of the season, and then the common-looking and unpromising
plants should be destroyed, reserving the others for planting out in
the following spring. A new type of Rhubarb which is readily raised
from seed will remain in bearing continuously if put out on good ground
and given protection during severe winter weather. Seed of this strain
should be sown in March or April, in pots or boxes placed in a cold
frame. Plant out the seedlings in May and these will generally yield
sticks in the autumn. Seed may also be sown in the open ground in
spring.
SALADS
Although the art of making Salads is to some extent understood in this
country, it must be admitted that much has yet to be learned from the
masters of Continental cookery, who utilise more plants than are
commonly used on this side of the Channel, and who impart to their
Salads an endless variety of flavourings. Here, however, we are only
concerned with the plants that are, or should be, in requisition for
the Salad-bowl at different seasons of the year. But it will not be
irrelevant to allude to the fact, admitted by medical men of high
reputation, that the appetite for fresh, crisp, uncooked vegetables is
a really healthy craving, and that free indulgence in Salads is a means
of supplying the human frame with important elements of plant-life. In
the process of cooking, certain minerals, such as salts of potash, are
abstracted from vegetables, while in Salads they are available, and
contribute both to the enjoyment and the benefit of the consumer.
Our present object is to offer a reminder of the plants that must be
grown in order to supply such a variety of Salads as will fairly meet
the requirements of a generous table during the changing seasons of the
year. The culture of all the following subjects will be found under
their proper headings.
Beet.—For its distinct flavour and splendid colour Beet is highly
valued as a component of Salads. As the roots are easily stored they
are available for several months after the growing season has passed.
Celeriac is much used in French Salads, and some appreciation is now
shown for it in this country. The roots or bulbs are trimmed, washed,
and cooked in the same manner as Beet.
Celery.—This delicious Salad is in such general favour that no comment
on its virtues is necessary.
Chervil.—The curled is far handsomer than the common variety, and is
available for garnishing as well as for Salads.
Chicory.—The common Chicory (_Barbe de Capucin_) and the Brussels
variety (_Witloof_) have attained to great popularity. Both are
agreeable and wholesome, and a supply should be maintained from October
to May.
Chives find acceptance at times when the stronger flavour of Onion is
inadmissible.
Corn Salad.—The leaves should be gathered separately in the same manner
as they are collected from Spinach.
Cress should be in continual readiness almost or entirely through the
year.
Cucumber.—Everybody appreciates the value of this fruit, which is
almost startling in its crisp coolness.
Dandelion.—The cultivated forms of this familiar plant are increasingly
grown for use in the Salad-bowl.
Endive has a distinct flavour which is highly appreciated; and in
winter the plant occupies the important position that Lettuce fills in
summer and autumn.
Lettuce.—All the Cabbage varieties are in great demand for Salads,
because they readily assimilate the dressing. But for delicious
crispness the Cos varieties cannot fail to maintain their position of
assured popularity.
Mustard needs only to be named. Like Cress, it is in continuous demand.
Nasturtium.—A few flowers may always be employed to garnish a Salad,
for they are true Salad plants, and may be eaten with safety by those
who choose to eat them.
Onion imparts life to every Salad that contains it; but for the sake of
the modest people who do not fail to appreciate the advantage of its
presence, although they scruple to avow their love, there must be
discretion in determining the proportion.
Purslane.—The leaves and shoots are used for Salads, and the former
should be gathered while quite young.
Radish finds a place on the tables of the opulent and of the humblest
cottager.
Rampion.—The fleshy roots are employed in Salads in the natural state,
and also when cooked.
Salsify is commonly known as ‘Vegetable Oyster,’ and is an excellent
component of a Salad. The roots may also be allowed to put forth leaves
in the dark to furnish blanched material.
Shallot.—A delicate substitute for Onion.
Sorrel possesses a piquant flavour that can be used by the skilful with
most agreeable results.
Tomato has fought its way to popularity in this country, and now holds
a commanding position.
Water Cress.—When the tender tops can be had they are seldom allowed to
be absent from first-class Salads.
SALSIFY
Tragopogon porrifolius
Salsify may be sown from the end of March to May, but two sowings will
in most cases be sufficient. Drill the seed in rows fifteen inches
apart and one inch deep. Thin from time to time until the plants stand
nine, ten, or in an extreme case twelve, inches apart. In ordinary soil
nine inches will be sufficient. Hoe between frequently, but do not use
a fork or spade anywhere near the crop, for the loosening of the ground
will cause the roots to branch.
A deep sandy soil with a coat of manure put in the bottom of the trench
will produce fine roots of Salsify. But there should be no recent
manure within fifteen inches of the surface, or the roots will be
forked and ugly. In a soil that produces handsome roots naturally the
preparation may consist in a good digging only, but generally speaking
the more liberal routine will give a better result.
In November dig a portion of the crop and store in sand, and lift
further supplies as required. Some roots may be left to furnish Chards
in spring. These are the flowering-shoots which rise green and tender,
and must be cut when not more than five or six inches long. They are
dressed and served in the same way as Asparagus.
Salsify is a root of high quality, the growing of which is generally
considered a test of a gardener’s skill. Perhaps the after-dressing and
serving of Salsify may be a test of the skill of the cook, but upon
that point we will not insist. It is a less troublesome root than
Scorzonera, and superior to it in beauty and flavour—in fact, it is
often dressed and served as ‘Vegetable Oyster,’ having somewhat the
flavour of the favourite bivalve.
Salsify roots require to be prepared for use by scraping them, and then
steeping in water containing a little lemon juice or vinegar. They are
boiled until tender, and served with white sauce. To prepare them as
the ‘Vegetable Oyster’ the roots are first boiled and allowed to get
cold, then cut in slices and quickly fried in butter to a light golden
brown, being dusted with salt and white pepper while cooking. Serve
with crisped Parsley and sauce made with butter, flour, and the liquor
from tinned or fresh oysters.
SAVOY—_see page 38_
SCORZONERA
Scorzonera hispanica
Scorzonera is not much grown in this country, but as it is prized on
the Continent, it might be introduced to many English tables with
advantage. The main point in the cultivation is to obtain large clean
roots, for carelessly grown samples will be small, forked, and fibrous.
Trench a piece of ground, and mix a good dressing of half-rotten manure
with the bottom spit, taking care that there is none in the top spit.
Make a nice seed-bed, and sow in the month of March in shallow drills
fifteen inches apart, and as the plants advance thin them until they
stand a foot apart in the drill. Keep the crop clean, and it will be
fit for use in September. Lift as wanted in the same manner as
Parsnips. Seed may also be sown in April and May.
To cook the roots they must first be scalded, then scraped and thrown
into water in which there are a few drops of lemon juice. Let them
remain half an hour; boil in salted water in the same way as Carrots
until quite tender, and serve with white sauce. If left to get cold
they can be sliced and fried in butter to make a good side dish.
SEA KALE
Crambe maritima
Many persons prefer Sea Kale to Asparagus, but the two differ so widely
in flavour and general character that no comparison between them is
possible. On two points, however, the advantage certainly rests with
Sea Kale. It can be more easily grown, and, regarded solely as an
article of food, it is the more profitable crop. This comparison has
therefore a practical bearing. In forming a new garden, and in cases
where it may not be possible to grow both these esculents
satisfactorily, Sea Kale should have attention first, as a thing that
will require but a small investment, and that will surely pay its way,
with quick returns, to the general advantage of the household.