The coast presents a combination of romantic, pastoral, and marine

beauties, that are deservedly the ~145~~theme of admiration, and

certainly no spot of the same extent, in the three kingdoms, perhaps in

the world, can boast of such a diversity of picturesque qualities, of

natural charms, and local advantages--attractions which have justly

acquired for it the emphatic distinction of the Garden of England.

Every where the coast is adorned with cottages or villas, hill or vale,

enriched by the most luxuriant foliage, and crowned in the distance by

a chain of lofty downs; while in front the coasts of Gosport and

Portsmouth, and that grand naval station for England's best bulwarks,

Spithead, present a forest of towering masts and streamers, which adds

much to the natural grandeur of the scene. As we near Cowes we

are delighted with a variety of striking objects: The chaste and

characteristic seat of Norris, the residence of Lord Henry Seymour,

massive in its construction, and remarkable for the simplicity of its

style and close approximation to the ancient castle. On the brow of the

hill the picturesque towers of East Cowes Castle rise from a surrounding

grove, and present a very beautiful appearance, which is materially

increased upon nearer inspection by the rapid spread of the deep-hued

ivy clinging to its walls, and giving it an appearance of age and

solidity which is admirably relieved by the diversity of the lighter

foliage. On the other side projects from a point westward Cowes Castle,

the allotted residence of the governor, but now inhabited by the Marquis

of Anglesey and his family, to whose partiality for aquatic sports

Cowes is much indebted for its increasing consequence and celebrity. The

building itself, although much improved of late, is neither picturesque

nor appropriate; but the adjoining scenery, and particularly the marine

villas of Lord Grantham and the late Sir J. C. Hippesley, have greatly

increased the beauty of the spot, which first strikes the eye of a

stranger in his progress to West Cowes from ~146~~Southampton Water.

The town itself rises like an amphitheatre from the banks of a noble

harbour, affording security and convenience for large fleets of ships

to ride at anchor safely, or to winter in from stress of weather, or

the repair of damages. But here ends my topographical sketches for the

present. The inspiring air of "Home, sweet Home," played by the steward

upon the key bugle, proclaims our arrival; the boat is now fast drawing

to her moorings at the Fountain Quay, the boatmen who flock along-side

have already solicited the care of my luggage, and the hand of my

friend, Horace Eglantine, is stretched forth to welcome my arrival at

West Cowes.

The first salutations over with my friend Eglantine, I could not help

expressing my surprise at the sailor-like appearance of his costume.

"All the go here, old fellow," said Horace; "we must start that

long-tailed gib of yours for a nice little square mizen, just enough to

cover your beam and keep your bows cool; so bear a hand, my boy, and let

us drop down easy to our births, and when properly rigged you shall go

on board my yacht, the Rover, and we will bear away for the westward.

Only cast off that sky scraper of yours before the boom sweeps it

overboard, and cover your main top with a Waterloo cap: there, now, you

are cutter rigg'd, in good sailing trim, nothing queer and yawl-like

about you." In this way I soon found myself metamorphosed into a

complete sailor, in appearance; and as every other person of any

condition, from the marquis downwards, adopted the same dress, the

alteration was indispensably necessary to escape the imputation of being

considered a Goth. Among the varied sports in which the nobility and

gentry of England have at any time indulged, or that have, from the mere

impulse of the moment and the desire of novelty, become popular, none

have been more truly national and praiseworthy than the establishment of

the Royal Yacht Club. The promotion ~147~~of aquatic amusement combines

the soundest policy in the pursuit of pleasure, two points but rarely

united; in addition to which it benefits that class of our artizans,

the shipwrights, who, during a time of profound peace, require some

such auxiliary aid; nor is it less patriotic in affording employment to

sea-faring men, encouraging the natural characteristic of Britons, and

feeding and fostering a branch of service upon which the country must

ever rely for its support and defence in time of peril. To the owners

it offers advantages and attractions which are not, in other pursuits,

generally attainable; Health here waits on Pleasure,--Science benefits

by its promotion,--friends may partake without inconvenience or much

additional expense,--travel is effected with economy,--and change of

scene and a knowledge of foreign coasts obtained without the usual

privations and incumbrances attendant upon the public mode of

conveyance. By a recent regulation, any gentleman's pleasure yacht may

enter the ports of France, or those of any other power in alliance with

England, exempted from the enormous exactions generally extorted from

private and merchant vessels, as harbour and other dues,--a privilege of

no mean consequence to those who are fond of sailing. In addition,

there are those, and of the service too, who contend, that since the

establishment of the Royal Yacht Club, by their building superior

vessels, exciting emulation, and creating a desire to excel in naval

architecture, and also by the superiority of their sailing, the public

service of the country has been much benefited, particularly as regards

our lighter vessels, such as revenue cutters and cruizers. This club,

which originated with some gentlemen at Cowes in the year 1815, now

comprises the name of almost every nobleman and gentleman in the kingdom

who keeps a yacht, and is honoured with that of the sovereign, and

other members of his family, ~148~~as its patrons. Cowes Harbour is the

favourite rendezvous; and here in the months of July and August may

be seen above one hundred fine vessels built entirely for purposes of

pleasure, and comprising every size and variety of rigging, from a ship

of three hundred tons burthen to the yawl of only eight or ten. It was

just previous to that delightful spectacle, the regatta, taking place,

when the roads and town presented an unusually brilliant appearance,

that I found myself agreeably seated on board the Rover, a cutter

yacht of about thirty tons, who, if she was not fitted up with all the

superiority of many of those which surrounded me, had at least every

comfortable and necessary accommodation for half a dozen visitors,

without incommoding my friend Horace or his jovial crew.

I had arrived at Cowes a low-spirited weakly invalid, more oppressed

in mind than body; but a few trips with my friend Eglantine to sea, on

board the Rover, and some equally pleasant rambles among the delightful

scenery which surrounds the bay of Cowes, had in one week's residence

banished all symptoms of dispepsia and nervous debility, and set the

master of arts once more upon his legs again. Some idea of my condition,

on leaving _alma mater_, may be obtained by the following effusion of

my Muse, who, to do her justice, is not often sentimental, unless when

sickness presses her too close.

THE INVALID.

Light-hearted Mirth and Health farewell,

Twin sisters of my youthful days,

Who through life's early spangled dell

Would oft inspire my humble lays.

Fancy, cameleon of the mind,

The poet's treasure, life, and fame,

Thou too art fled, with wreath to bind

The budding of some happier name.

~149~~

Oppression's sway, or fortune's frown,

My buoyant spirits once could bear;

But now chimeras press me down,

And all around seems fell despair.

With fev'rish dreams and frenzied brain,

When Hecate spreads her veil, I'm crost;

My body sinks a prey to pain,

And all but lingering hope is lost.

With the return of health and spirits, Horace insisted I should write

the "L'Allegro" to this "Il Penseroso" effusion. So, finding the jade

had recovered her wonted buoyancy, I prayed her mount on gayest wing,

and having spread her pinions to the sun, produced the following

impromptu.

THE CONVALESCENT.

Welcome, thou first great gift below,

Hygeian maid, with rosy glow,

Thrice welcome to my call.

Let misers hug their golden store,

I envy none the servile ore;

To me thou art all in all.

Thou spring of life, and herald fair,

Whose charm dispels disease and care,

And yields a summer joy,

All hail! celestial seraph, hail!

Thou art the poet's coat of mail,

His mirth without alloy.

There is a prepossessing something in the life of a sailor which

improves the natural attachment of Englishmen to every thing nautical;

so much so, that I never heard of one in my life who was not, after

a single trip, always fond of relating his hair-breadth perils and

escapes, and of seizing every opportunity to display his marine

knowledge by framing his conversation _ship shape_, and decorating his

oratory with a few of those lingual localisms, which to a landsman must

be almost unintelligible without the aid of ~150~~a naval glossary.

A fortnight's tuition under the able auspices of my friend Horace had

brought me into tolerable good trim in this particular; I already

knew the difference between fore and aft, a gib, a mainsail, and a

mizen;could hand a rope, or let go the foresail upon a tack; and having

gained the good opinion of the sailing captain, I was fast acquiring a

knowledge how to box the binnacle and steer through the Needle's Eye.

But, my conscience! as the Dominie says, I could never learn how to

distinguish the different vessels by name, particularly when at a little

distance; their build and rigging being to my eye so perfectly similar.

In all this, however, my friend Horace was as completely at home as if

he had studied naval architecture at the college; the first glance of a

vessel was quite enough for him: like an old sportsman with the pedigree

of a horse or a dog, only let him see her, through his glass head or

stern, or upon a lee lurch, and he would hail her directly, specify her

qualities and speed, tell you where she was built, and who by, give you

the date of her register, owner's name, tonnage, length and breadth

of her decks, although to the eye of the uninitiated there was no

distinguishing mark about her, the hull being completely black, and

the rigging, to a rope, like every other vessel of the same class.

"For instance," said Horace, "who could possibly mistake that beautiful

cutter, the Pearl? See how she skims along like a swan with her head

up, and stern well under the wind! Then, look at her length; there's

a bowsprit, my boy! full half the measurement of her hull; and her new

mainsail looks large enough to sweep up every breath of wind between

the sea and the horizon. Then only direct your fore lights to her trim;

every rope just where it should be, and not a line too much; and when

she fills well with a stiff breeze, not a wrinkle in all her canvas from

the gib to the gaff topsail. Then observe how she dips in the bows, and

what a breadth she ~151~~has; why she's fit for any seas; and if the

Arrow ever shoots past her, I'll forfeit every shot in my lockers."

"Avast there! master Horace," said our master at the helm, who was an

old Cowes pilot, and as bluff as a Deal sea-boat; "the Pearl is a noble

sailer; but a bird can't fly without wings, nor a ship run thirteen

knots an hour without a good stiff breeze. If the light winds prevail,

the Arrow will have the advantage, particularly now she's cutter rigged,

and has got the marquis's old mainsail up to take the wind out of his

eye." "Ay, ay," said Horace, "you must tell that story to the marines,

old boy; it will never do for the sailors." "Mayhap, your honours

running right a-head with the Pearl, and betting your blunt all one

way; but, take an old seaman's advice; may I get no more rest than a

dog-vane, or want a good _grego_{1} in a winter's watch, if I don't

think you had better keep a good look-out for the wind's changing aft;

and be ready to haul in your weather-braces, and bear the

back-stays abreast the top-br'im, ere the boatswain's mate pipes the

starboard-watch a-hoy." "Tush, tush, old fellow," said Horace, with whom

I found Lord Anglesey's cutter stood a one at Lloyd's. "May my mother

sell vinegar, and I stay at home to bottle it off, if I would give a

farthing per cent, to be ensured for my whole risk upon the grand match!

Mind your weather roll, master--belay every inch of that. There now;

look out a-head; there's the Liberty giving chase to the Julia, and

the Jack-o'lantern weathering the Swallow upon every tack. His Grace of

Norfolk won't like that; but a pleasure hack must not be expected to run

against a thorough-bred racer. There is but one yawl in the club, and

that is the little Eliza, that can sail alongside a cutter; but then Sir

George Thomas is a tar for all weathers--a true blue jacket--every thing

so snug--cawsand rig--no topmasts--all so square and trim, that nothing

of his bulk can

1 A watch-coat.

~152~~beat him." In this way my friend Eglantine very soon perfected me

in nautical affairs, or, to use his expression, succeeded in putting a

"timber head in the ship;" and the first use I made of my newly acquired

information was to pen a _jeu d'esprit_, in the way of a circular in

rhyme, inviting the members of the Royal Yacht Club to assemble in

Cowes-roads. The whim was handed about in MS., and pleased more from

its novelty than merit; but as it contains a correct list of the club at

this period, and as the object of the English Spy is to perpetuate the

recollections of his own time, I shall here introduce it to the notice

of my readers.

A CIRCULAR,

ADDRESSED TO THE MEMBERS OP THE ROYAL YACHT CLUB.

Come, lads, bend your sails; o'er the blue waters thronging, In barks

like the sea-mew that skims o'er the lave; All you to the Royal Yacht

squadron belonging, Come, muster at Cowes, for true sport on the

wave.{1} First our king,{2} Heaven bless him! who's lord of the sea,

And delights in the sport of the circling wave, Commands you attend

him wherever ye be, Sons of ocean, ye loyal, ye witty, and brave. Here

Anglesey,{3} Waterloo's hero, shall greet ye;

1 The club generally assemble in Cowes-roads about the

middle of July to commence their aquatic excursions, which

are continued

until after the Regatta in August.

2 His Majesty is graciously pleased to honour the club by

becoming its patron.

3 The Marquis of Anglesey is a principal promoter of this

truly British sport, and resides with his family at Cowes

Castle during the season. The Pearl cutter, 113 tons, and

the Liberty cutter, 42 tons, are both his property.

~153~~

The Pearl, and the Liberty, cutters in trim, The Welds {4} in the Arrow

and Julia too meet ye, The match for eight hundred affording you whim.

Here Grantham{5} his Nautilus, steer'd by old Hollis, Shall cut through

the wave like a beautiful shell; And Symonds{6} give chase in the yawl

the Cornwallis, And Webster{7} the Scorpion manage right well; And

Williams{8} the younger, and Owen{9} his dad, From the shores of

Beaumaris have run the Gazelle; And Craven{10} his May-fly wings o'er

like a lad That is used to the ocean, and fond of its swell. Come,

lads, bear a hand--here's Sir George hove in sight, With his little

Eliza{11} so snug and so trim; Tan sails, cawsand rigg'd--for all

weather she's tight; You must sail more than well, if you mean to beat

him. Then steady, boys, steady--here's Yarborough's{12} Falcon, A very

fine ship, but a little too large; And here is a true son of Neptune to

talk on, Vice-Admiral Hope,{13} K.CB. in his barge.

4 Joseph and James Welds, Esqrs., of Southampton, the

wealthy and spirited owners of the Arrow yawl, 85 tons, and

the Julia, 43 tons. These gentlemen evince the greatest

spirit in challenging and sailing any of the club.

5 Lord Grantham, Nautilus, Cutter, 103 tons, a new and very

fast sailer.

Owner Vessel Class Tons

6 Capt. J. C. Symonds, R.N. Adm. Cornwallis Yawl 22

7 Sir Godfrey Webster Scorpion, Cutter 110

8 T. P. Williams, Esq., Hussar, Schooner, 120

and the Blue-eyed Maid, Cutter, 39

9 Owen Williams, Esq. Gazelle Cutter 87

10 Earl Craven May-fly Yawl 39

11 Sir George Thomas, Bart. Eliza Yawl 34

12 Lord Yarborough Commodore Falcon Ship 335

13 Vice-Admiral Sir W. Johnston Hope, K.C.B., who is here in

one of the Admiralty yachts.

~154~~

Come, lads, spread your canvas for health and for pleasure,

For both are combined in this true British sport;

Come, muster in Cowes-roads without further leisure,

Blue jackets and trowsers for dresses at court.

See Deerhurst{14} his Mary sticks to like a lover,

And Lindegren's{15}Dove wings it over the main;

Powell's {16} Briton, 'tis very well known, is a rover,

In Union the Pagets{17}must ever remain;

Here's Smith's {18 }Jack o'lantern and Chamberlayne's Fairy,{19}

Earl Harborough's{20} Ann, and F. Pake's Rosabelle{21}

Lord Willoughby's {22} Antelope, Penleaze's {23}Mary,

And Gauntlet's{24}Water-sprite sails very well.

Come, jolly old Curtis,{25} bear up in your Emma,

Eight cheerily laden with turtle and port;

And Melville{26} set sail if you'd scape the dilemma

Of being too late for our aquatic sport.

See Norfolk {27}already is here in the Swallow,

And the Don Giovanni a challenge has sent,

Which Lyons {28} accepts, and intends to beat hollow,

That is if the Londoner should not repent.

Owner Vessel

14 Viscount Deerhurst Mary

15 J. Lindegren, Esq. Dove.

16 J. B. Powell, Esq. Briton

17 Right Hon. Sir A. Paget Union

18 T. A. Smith, jun. Esq. Jack o'lantern

19 W. Chamberlayne, Esq. Fairy

20 Earl of Harborough Ann

21 F. Pare, Esq. Rosabelle

22 Lord Willoughby do Broke Antelope

23 J. S. Penleaze, Esq. Mary

24 Captain J. Gauntlet Water Sprite

25 Sir William Curtis, Bart. Rebecca Maria, Yawl, 76 tons.

and Emma, Schooner, 132 tons.

26 Lord Melville Admiralty Yacht 100

27 Duke of Norfolk Swallow Yawl 124

28 Captain Edmund Lyons (the polar navigator) had just

launched the Queen Mab.

~155~~

But look, what a crowd of fine yachts are arriving!

The Elizabeth,{29 }Unicorn,{30} Cygnet,{31} and Jane,{32}

The Eliza, Sabrina,{33} Madora,{34} all striving

To beat one another as coursing the main.

A fleet of small too, at anchor are riding;

The Margaret{35} Sapphire,{36} the Molly,{37} and Hind,{38}

The Orion,{39} and Dormouse{40} and Janette{41}abiding

The time when each vessel shall covet the wind.

Then, boys, bend your sails, and weigh for our regatta,

We've a Sylph?{42 and a Rambler{43} and a Merry Maid,{44}

A Syren{45} a Cherub{46} a Charlotte{47} and at her

A Corsair(48} who looks as if nothing afraid.

Here the Lord of the Isles{49} and freebooter Rob Roy,{50}

By a Will o' the Wisp{51} are led over the deep;

29 J. Fleming, Esq.

Elizabeth

30 H. Perkins, Esq.

Unicorn,

31 J. Reynolds, Esq.

Cygnet

32 Hon. William Hare

Jane

33 James Maxie, Esq.

Sabrina

34 H. Hopkins, Esq.

Madora

35 Hon. William White

Margaret

36 James Dundas, Esq.

Sapphire

37 Lieutenant-Colonel Harris

Charming Molly

38 Capt. Herringham, R.N.

Hind

39 James Smith, Esq.

Orion

40. P. Peach, Esq.

Dormouse

41 Capt. C. Wyndham, R.N.

Janette

42 R. W. Newman, Esq.

Sylph

43 J. H. Durand, Esq.

Jolly Rambler

44 Joseph Gulston, Esq.

Merry-maid

45 T. Lewin, Esq.

Syren

46 T. Challen, Esq.

Cherub

47 John Vassall, Esq.

Charlotte

48 Corbett, Esq.

Corsair

49 Colonel Seale

Lord of the Isles

50 W. Gaven, Esq.

Rob Roy

51 E. H. Dolatield, Esq.

Will o' the Wisp

And the Highland Lass{52} blushes a welcome of joy,

As alongside the Wombwell{53} she anchors to sleep.

Here the Donna del Lago{54} consorts with Rostellan,{55}

To the New Grove,{56} Lord Nelson{57} Louisa {58} attends,

Galatea{59} runs a Harrie{60} in chase of the Erin,{61}

And here with the Club List my Circular ends.

Owner Vessel Class Tons

52 Lieut.-Gen. Mackenzie Highland Lass Yawl 25

53 T. Harman, Esq. Wombivell Cutter 33

54 S. Halliday, Esq. Lady of Die Lake Yawl 42

55 Marquis of Thoruond Rostellan Schooner 60

56 John Roche, Esq. New Grove Cutter 24

57 Reverend C. A. North Lord Nelson Cutter 75

58 Arch. Swinton, Esq. Louisa Yawl 24

59 C. R. M. Talbot, Esq. Galatea Schooner 179

60 Sir R. J. A. Kemys Harrier Schooner 36

61 T. Allen, Esq. Erin Schooner 94

~156~~

"A right merrie conceit," said Horace, "and a good-humoured jingle that

must be gratifying to all mentioned, and will serve as a record of the

present list of the Yacht Club to future times. We must petition the

commodore to enter you upon the ship's books as poet-laureate to the

squadron: you shall pen lyrics for our annual club-dinner at East Cowes,

compose sea-chants for our cabin jollifications, sing the praises of our

wives and sweethearts, and write a congratulatory ode descriptive of

our vessels, crews, and commanders, at the end of every season; and

your reward shall be a birth on board any of the fleet when you choose a

sail, and a skin-full of grog whenever you like to command it. So come,

old fellow, give us a spice of your qualifications for your new office;

something descriptive of the science of navigation, from its earliest

date to the perfection of a first-rate man of war."

~157~~

THE PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION,

AN ORIGINAL SONG;

Dedicated to the Members of the Royal Yacht Club.

In the first dawn of science, ere man could unfold

The workings of nature, or valued dull gold;

Ere yet he had ventured to dare ocean's swell,

Or could say by the moon how the tides rose and fell;

A philosopher seated one day on the brink

Of the silvery margin thus took him to think:

"If on this side the waters are girted by land,

What controls the wide expanse, I'd fain understand."

Thus buried in thought had he ponder'd till now,

But a beautiful nautilus sail'd to and fro;

Just then a sly breeze raised the curls from his eyes,

And he woke from a dream to extatic surprise.

O'er his head a huge oak spread a canopy round,

Whose trunk being hollow, he levell'd to ground;

With a branch form'd a mast, and some matting a sail,

And thus rudely equipp'd dared the perilous gale;

Of the winds and the waves both the mercy and sport,

His bark was long tost without guidance to port,

And the storms of the ocean went nigh to o'erwhelm,

When the tail of the dolphin suggested a helm.

Ry degrees, the canoe to a cutter became,

And order and form newly-moulded the same,

Ropes, rigging, and canvas, and good cabin room,

A bowsprit, a mizen, a gib, and a boom.

From the cutter, the schooner, brig, frigate arose;

Till Britons, determined to conquer their foes,

Built ships like to castles, they call'd men of war,

The fame of whose broadsides struck terror afar.

Now boldly, philosophy aided by skill,

Bent his course o'er the blue waters sailing at will,

But dubious the track, for as yet 'twas unknown

How to steer 'twixt the poles for a north or south zone,

~158~~

Till the magnet's attraction, by accident found,

Taught man how the globe he could traverse around;

New worlds brought to light, and new people to view,

And by commerce connected Turk, Christian, and Jew.

All this while, father Neptune lay snug in his bed,

Till he heard a sad riot commence o'er his head,

Folks firing, and fighting, and sailing about,

When his godship popp'd up just to witness the rout;

It happen'd in one of those actions to be

When Europe combined fought the isle of the sea,

And, as usual, were conquer'd, sunk, fired, or run,

That old Neptune acknowledged each Briton his son.

"From this time," said his godship, "henceforth, be it known,

Little England's the spot for the ocean-king's throne;

And this charter I grant, and enrol my decree,

That my brave sons, the Britons, are lords of the sea."

"There's nothing like a good song," said Horace, "for conveying

information on nautical subjects, or promoting that national spirit

which is the pride and glory of our isle. I question if the country

are not more indebted to old Charles Dibdin for his patriotic effusions

during the late war, than to all the psalm-singing admirals and

chaplains of the fleet put together. I know that crab Gambier, and the

methodist privateers who press all sail to pick up a deserter from the

orthodox squadron, do a great deal of mischief among our seamen; for as

Corporal Trim says, 'What time has a sailor to palaver about creeds when

it blows great guns, or the enemies of his country heave in sight? a

sailor's religion is to perform his duty aloft and do good below; honour

his king, love his girl, obey his commander, and burn, sink, and destroy

the foes of his country.' Here we have an occasional exhibition of this

sort on board the depot vessel in the harbour, when the _Bethel_ flag

~159~~is hoisted, and the voice of the puritan is heard from East Cowes

to Eaglehurst; as if there were not already conventicles enough on shore

for those who are disposed to separate themselves from the established

church, without the aid of a floating chapel, furnished by the

government agent to subvert the present order of things. On this point,

you know, I was always a liberal thinker, but a firm friend to the

church, as being essential to the best interests of the state. An old

college chum of ours, who has been unusually fortunate in obtaining

ecclesiastical preferment, thought proper to send me a friendly lecture

in one of his letters the other day on this subject, to which I returned

the following answer, and put an end to his scruples, as I think, for

ever: I have entitled it

THE UNIVERSALIST.

'to a friend who questioned the propriety of his

religious opinions.

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