_ENAMELLING._
The process of enamelling in oil varnishes as applied to furniture must
be understood as a smooth, glossy surface of various colours produced by
bodies of paint and varnish skilfully rubbed down, and prepared in a
peculiar way so as to produce a surface equal to French polish. Ornament
can be added by gilding, etc., after the polished surface is finished.
We will begin with the white or light-tinted enamel. The same process
must be pursued for any colour, the only difference being in the
selection of the materials for the tint required to be produced.
It should be observed that enamelling requires the exercise of the
greatest care, and will not bear hurrying. Each coat must be allowed
sufficient time for the hardening, and the rubbing down must be
patiently and gently done; heavy pressure will completely spoil the
work.
=Materials.=--The materials used for the purpose above named are: white
lead ground in turpentine and the best white lead in oil; a clear,
quick, and hard-drying varnish, such as the best copal, or the varnishes
for enamel manufactured by Mr. W. Urquhart, 327, Edgware Road, W.; or
white coburg and white enamel varnish, ground and lump pumice-stone, or
putty-powder, great care being taken in the selection of the
pumice-stone, as the slightest particle of grit will spoil the surface;
and rotten-stone, used either with water or oil.
=Tools.=--The tools required are several flat wooden blocks, of various
sizes and forms, suitable for inserting into corners and for
mouldings--these must be covered with felt on the side you intend to
use, the felt best adapted for the purpose being the white felt, from a
quarter to half an inch in thickness, which can be obtained of Messrs.
Thomas Wallis & Co., Holborn Circus, or at the woollen warehouses; two
or three bosses (made similar to polish rubbers) of cotton-wool, and
covered with silk (an old silk handkerchief makes capital coverings);
wash or chamois leather, and a good sponge.
=Mode of Operation.=--If the wood is soft and porous it is best to
commence with a coating of size and whiting applied in a warm state,
which is allowed to dry; it is then rubbed down with glass-paper, and
two coats of common paint given, mixed in the usual way and of the same
colour as you intend to finish with. In practice this is found to be
best; after these two coats are thoroughly dry, mix the white-lead
ground in turps, with only a sufficient quantity of varnish to bind it,
thinning to a proper consistency with turps. It is as well to add a
little of the ordinary white-lead ground in oil, as it helps to prevent
cracking. Give the work four or five coats of this, and allow each coat
to dry thoroughly. When it is hard and ready for rubbing down, commence
with a soft piece of pumice-stone and water, and rub just sufficient to
take off the roughness. Now use the felt-covered rubbers and ground
pumice-stone, and cut it down, working in a circular manner. The
greatest care is required to obtain a level surface free from scratches.
After the work is well rubbed down, if it should appear to be
insufficiently filled up, or if scratched, give it two more coats, laid
on very smoothly, and rub down as before. If properly done, it will be
perfectly smooth and free from scratches. Wash it well down, and be
careful to clean off all the loose pumice-stone. Then mix flake-white
from the tube with either of the above-named varnishes, till it is of
the consistency of cream. Give one coat of this, and when dry give it
another, adding more varnish. Let this dry hard, the time taken for
which will of course depend upon the drying qualities of the varnish;
some will polish in eight or nine days, but it is much the best to let
it stand as long as you possibly can, as the harder it is, the brighter
and more enduring will be the polish. When sufficiently hard, use the
felt, and very finely-ground pumice-stone and water; with this cut down
till it is perfectly smooth; then let it stand for a couple of days, to
harden the surface.
=Polishing.=--In commencing to bring up a polish, first take
rotten-stone, either in oil or water; use this with the felt rubber for
a little while, then put some upon the surface of the silk-covered boss,
and commence to rub very gently in circular strokes; continue this till
there is a fine equal surface all over. The polish will begin to appear
as you proceed, but it will be of a dull sort. Clean off: if the
rotten-stone is in oil, clean off with dry flour; if in water, wash off
with sponge and leather, taking care that you wash it perfectly clean
and do not scratch.
You will now, after having washed your hands, use a clean damp chamois
leather, holding it in the left hand, and using the right to polish
with, keeping it clean by frequently drawing it over the damp leather.
With the ball of the right hand press gently upon the work, and draw
your hand sharply, forward or towards you; this will produce a bright
polish, and every time you bring your hand forward a sharp shrill sound
will be heard similar to rubbing on glass. Continue this till the whole
surface is one bright even polish. It will be some time before you will
be able to do this perfectly, especially if the skin is dry or hard, as
it is then liable to scratch the work. A smooth, soft skin will produce
the best polish.
For the interior of houses, the "Albarine" enamel manufactured by the
Yorkshire Varnish Company, of Ripon, is recommended. This article
combines in itself a perfectly hard solid enamel of the purest possible
colour; and for all interior decorations, where purity of colour and
brilliancy of finish are desired, it is universally admitted to be the
most perfect article of the kind hitherto introduced to the trade. It is
applied in the same manner as ordinary varnish.
_Another Process._--The preceding section describes the process of
enamelling by oil varnishes, and the directions referring to the
polishing will be found of value for the "polishing up" on painted
imitations of woods or marbles. There is another process whereby an
enamel can be produced upon furniture at a much cheaper rate than the
preceding, and one too, perhaps, in which a polisher may feel more "at
home." The work should first have a coating of size and whiting (well
strained); this will act as a pore-filler. When dry, rub down with fine
paper, after which use the felt-covered rubber and powdered
pumice-stone, to remove all the scratches caused by the glass-paper and
to obtain a smooth and good surface. Then proceed to make a solution for
the enamel: first procure two ounces of common isinglass from the
druggist's, and thoroughly dissolve it in about a pint of boiling water;
when dissolved, stir in two ounces and a-half of subnitrate of
bismuth--this will be found to be about the right quantity for most
woods, but it can be varied to suit the requirements. With this give the
work one coat, boiling hot; apply it with a soft piece of Turkey sponge,
or a broad camel's-hair brush, and when dry cut down with powdered
pumice-stone; if a second coat is required, serve in precisely the same
manner. Then proceed to polish in the ordinary way with white polish.
After wetting the rubber, sprinkle a small quantity of the subnitrate of
bismuth upon it; then put on the cover, and work in the usual manner;
continue this till a sufficient body is obtained, and after allowing a
sufficient time for the sinking and hardening it can be spirited off.
Enamelled furniture has had, comparatively speaking, rather a dull sale,
but there is no class of furniture more susceptible of being made to
please the fancy of the many than this. It can be made in any tint that
may be required by the application of Judson's dyes, and the exercise of
a little skill in the decoration will produce very pleasing effects.
=Decorations.=--The decorations are usually ornaments drawn in gold. A
cut-out stencil pattern is generally used, and the surface brushed over
with a camel's-hair pencil and japanner's gold size, which can be
obtained at the artist's colourman's, or, if preferred, can be made by
boiling 4 ozs. of linseed-oil with 1 oz. of gum anîme and a little
vermilion. When the size is tacky, or nearly dry, gold powder or gold
leaf is applied. The gold is gently pressed down with a piece of
wadding, and when dry the surplus can be removed with a round
camel's-hair tool. In all cases where gold has been fixed by this
process it will bear washing without coming off, which is a great
advantage.