interior, a half-famished _Indian_ descries at a distance one of those
charitable stages erected on high for his relief, he hails the cheering
sight with the same feelings of delight that is experienced by a
tempest-tost and bewildered sailor, when he descries, through the dark
clouds of a stormy night, the cheering fire-beacon which denotes the
situation of a sheltering port. Whenever an _Indian_ has satisfied his
hunger at one of the stages in question, he marks the supporting poles
with the character peculiar to his tribe; so that those to whom he is
indebted for relief may perceive, on their return, whether their friends
have benefitted by their humane intentions. And it is a singular point
of honour amongst them, that if, by the characters before mentioned,
they should discover that the stage had been erected by an hostile
tribe, they will rather suffer the severest pangs of hunger than be
obliged to their enemy for relief.
Upon our return to the factory from the deer-hunt, we found much
anxiety prevailing respecting the safety of a small schooner, which had
sailed hence, on our arrival, to bring the furs from _Churchill River_,
and had not yet returned. There was the more foundation for such
apprehensions, as it blew a heavy gale on the day after her departure,
and she must consequently have been overtaken by it before she could
have possibly reached her destined port. However, it was determined to
wait her return until the 28th of _September_, when prudence dictated
our departure, to avoid the risk of a detention for the whole winter. In
the mean time, we occupied our time in procuring a stock of fresh
provisions against the day of sailing. Accordingly, a party of _Indians_
were despatched in pursuit of game; and in a few days they returned with
eleven hundred wild geese, which they had shot in the marshes to the
southward of _York_; and several other parties of the natives poured in
a copious supply of venison and wild duck.
Nor were we idle ourselves, as we constantly drew the _seine_ in the
mouth of the river; but the supplies of fish thus obtained were
exceedingly trifling. Of those we caught, the principal part consisted
of mullet, and _tittameg_, a small delicate fish peculiar to the rivers
of _Hudson’s Bay_.
Before I quit entirely this almost unknown country, I shall insert
an extract from an author whose observations will serve materially to
illustrate my own[38].
“The animals of _Hudson’s Bay_ are, the moose-deer, stags,
rein-deer, bears, wolves, foxes, beavers, otters, lynxes, martens,
squirrels, ermines, wild-cats, and hares; of the feathered kind, geese,
bustards, ducks, partridges, and all manner of wild fowl: of fish,
whales, morses, seals, cod, sea-horses, and sea-unicorns: and in the
rivers and fresh waters, pike, perch, carp, and trout. There have been
taken in one season, at _Nelson River_, 90,000 partridges, as large as
hens; and 25,000 hares. Every thing changes white in winter; even
_European_ animals after being a short time in the country.
“The inhabitants shew great ingenuity in kindling a fire, in
clothing themselves, and in preserving their eyes: in other respects,
they are very savage[39]. In their shapes and faces they do not resemble
the _Indians_, who live to the south: they are more like the
_Laplanders_ and _Samoeids_ of _Europe_, from whom they are probably
descended. Those on the sea-coast are dexterous in managing their kiacks
or boats[40]. The other _Americans_ seem to be of a _Tartar_ original.
“In 1670, a Charter was granted to a Company, which does not consist
of more than nine or ten persons, for the exclusive trade to this Bay;
and they have acted under it ever since, with great benefit to
themselves. The fur and peltry trade might be carried on to a much
greater extent, were it not entirely in the hands of this exclusive
Company; whose interested, not to say inquisitive spirit, has been the
subject of long and just complaint. The Company employ four ships, and
130 seamen[41].
“The _French_ destroyed the forts in 1782, valued at 500,000_l._ The
Company export commodities to the amount of 16,000_l._ and bring home
returns to the value of 29,340_l._ which yield to the revenue 3,734_l._
This includes the fishing in _Hudson’s Bay_.
“This commerce, small as it is, affords great profits to the
Company, and is advantageous to _Great Britain_ in general; for the
commodities we exchange with the _Indians_, for their skins and furs,
are all manufactured in _Great Britain_; and as the _Indians_ are not
very nice in their choice, those things are sent of which we have the
greatest plenty, and which, in the mercantile phrase, are _drugs_ with
us.——Though the workmanship, too, happens to be, in many respects, so
deficient, that no civilized people would take it off our hands, it may
nevertheless be admired by the _Indians_. On the other hand, the skins
and furs we bring from _Hudson’s Bay_ enter largely into our
manufactures, and afford us materials for a lucrative trade with many
nations of _Europe_. These circumstances tend to prove incontestably the
immense benefit that would redound to _Great Britain_ by throwing open
the trade to _Hudson’s Bay_; since, even in its present restrained
state, it is so advantageous. The exclusive Company, it is probable, do
not find commerce so advantageous now as it was before we got possession
of _Canada_. The only attempt made to trade with _Labrador_ has been
directed towards the fishery.
“From the journeys of _M^cKenzie_ and _Hearne_, a complete
confirmation has arisen, that there can be no northern communication
between the _Atlantic_ and _Pacific Oceans_, except at so high a
latitude that it must be impeded by perpetual ice.
“The mouth of the _Copper-mine River_, as ascertained by Mr.
_Hearne_, lies in latitude 72° N.; longitude, 119° W. of _Greenwich_.”
Since the _British_ have had possession of _Canada_, a strong
competition has arisen between the people of that country and the
_Hudson’s-Bay_ traders. It is therefore doubtful whether the opening of
a free trade into _Hudson’s Bay_ would be productive of those very
advantageous results which Mr. _Pinkerton_ has supposed: the
indefatigable _Canadians_ have contrived to carry their mercantile
expeditions into almost every part of the N. W. continent of _America_;
and it can be of little political consequence to the mother country,
whether the peltry trade is made to pass through _Canada_ or _Hudson’s
Bay_; except, indeed, that the opening of a free intercourse with the
Bay might operate as a stimulus upon the _Esquimaux_, to animate their
exertions in the seal and whale fisheries; as they would be then certain
of finding an adequate market for their oil, whalebone, and seal-skins.
That nothing serves so effectually to deaden the spirit of
mercantile application as an unjust monopoly, is evident, from an old
record of the year 1742; which runs thus:—
“When the _Indians_ came to the factory in _June_ 1742, they could get
but a pound of gunpowder for four beaver skins, a pound of shot for
one beaver, an ell of coarse cloth for fifteen, a blanket for twelve,
two fish-hooks or three flints for one, a gun for twenty-five skins, a
pistol for ten, a hat with a white lace for seven, an axe for four, a
hedging-bill for one, a gallon of brandy for four, a checked shirt for
seven; all which was sold at the monstrous profit of 2000 per cent.
Notwithstanding which discouragement, the _Indians_ brought down to
_Port Nelson_ that season 50,000 beaver skins, and 9000 martens; these
beaver skins being worth five or six shillings a pound; whereas those
which the _English_ purchase at _New York_ are not worth more than
three shillings and sixpence a pound.
“Besides these skins, the _Indians_, during the same year (1742),
brought to the factory, at _Churchill_, 20,000 beaver skins.”
If the _Indians_ were industrious at a season when their labour was so
miserably repaid, they would consequently become, at this moment, much
more diligent; because, owing to the competition before noticed, they
are certain of meeting with something like an adequate return for their
commodities.
To this increased activity of the natives is probably owing the late
very visible diminution in the staple article of their commerce, the
beaver skins; as it is evident that those animals are becoming much more
scarce, in consequence of the perseverance with which their haunts are
sought out and invaded.
The 28th of _September_ having at length arrived, and the mercury in
_Fahrenheit_’s thermometer having sunk to 20°, we gave up all hopes of
the schooner returning from _Churchill_; and came to the melancholy
conclusion, that she must have perished on her voyage. We therefore
weighed anchor from _York River_, and steered our course towards the
north, with an intention of touching, if possible, at the former place,
to seek information of the schooner, and to get the furs from that
factory; but a brisk gale springing up from the N. W. which was
immediately against us, we gave up our design of visiting _Churchill_,
and bore away for _Hudson’s Straits_. From henceforward we had one
continued gale in our favour, until we reached the _Orkneys_, after an
unparalleled quick voyage of nineteen days. In passing through _Hudson’s
Straits_, we could perceive none of the drift-ice or _Esquimaux_, which
were so plentiful in our voyage outwards: the former had been carried
away to the ocean, by the prevalence of the southerly currents; and the
latter had most probably retired to their winter habitations.
We saw, however, many _icebergs_ of enormous magnitude in the _Straits_;
but, after leaving _Cape Resolution_, we reached the _Orkneys_ without
noticing any more of those dangerous islands[42].
We remained at the _Orkneys_ nineteen days before the other
_Hudson’s-Bay_ ship arrived from thence; but she had experienced much
bad weather, and made a much longer passage than ourselves.
A few straggling remarks, made during our stay at the _Orkneys_, will
conclude this Journal.
Entering _Stromness Harbour_, by the _Hoy Passage_, the view on either
hand is extremely awful and sublime. _Hoy Head_ is a tremendous height;
and it appears doubly so from a ship sailing near to it, as the western
side of this craggy mountain is nearly perpendicular; so much so,
indeed, that it obtained the appellation of _Hoy Walls_. At a particular
part of this awful cliff, an immense rent has torn a large fragment from
the wall; and this huge disjointed mass is now washed, on all sides, by
the most terrific breakers. It stands however erect, repelling all their
shocks; and it has assumed so completely the human form, as to be styled
the _Old Man of Hoy_. This gigantic figure may be about five hundred
feet high.
If the lowness of the eastern shore gives it a less grand appearance,
yet the ledges of sunken rocks, on which many a gallant vessel has
perished, together with the horrid breakers roaring mountain high above
them, do not fail to inspire a spectator with equal awe and terror.
The Cathedral of _St. Magnus_, at _Kirkwall_, is built of a reddish kind
of stone, in the shape of a cross; and it looks, at a short distance,
much like a brick edifice. It is of very large dimensions; and appears
to a stranger in a more imposing light, because it is erected on an
eminence. The square tower issuing from the top of the cathedral, in the
centre of the cross, was formerly surmounted by a magnificent spire; but
being shattered some few years ago, by lightning, a mean brick
substitute has since been erected. There is an amazing number of
windows; many of which have been lately broken; and there are two in the
shape of a rose, exceedingly antique and beautiful.
The doors of this structure are low and arched, surrounded by a curious
embroidery of the same red stone as the rest of the building. On
entering the main portal, the space not allotted to public worship, the
roof is supported by a double row of enormous columns, eight on each
side: they are very simple and plain, composed of square stones laid
over each other horizontally, and the shafts of the pillars are of the
same diameter from their capitals to their bases. Owing to the moisture
of the place, a green mould has covered them, and given to the interior
a most venerable aspect.
Passing up the centre of the isle between these aged pillars, we arrive
at the centre of the cross, where four immense fluted columns support
the spire, bells, and clock. A boarded partition then runs across the
church; and a scrap of Scripture painted over a door marks out the place
of modern worship. The interior of this part is neat, and ornamented
with some fine specimens of carved oak, about two hundred years old.
Over many of the seats are antique escutcheons of the former Earls of
_Orkney_. The one appertaining to Earl Patrick Stuart, last Earl of
_Orkney_, (who was beheaded,) was quartered with lions and ships, and
inscribed thus:
E SIC · FVIT · EST · ET · ERIT
=
P : S
We had the curiosity to go up to the belfry, by spiral staircases
between the outer and inner walls of the cathedral. The number and
intricacy of these dark passages was really astonishing; and the
darkness of the place inspiring gloomy ideas, we fancied that it was in
such dismal recesses that the bigotted monks used formerly to immure
their victims. There is one fine bell, and two inferior ones, in the
church, and a noble clock by a _Scotch_ mechanist. From the belfry, a
small door opens upon a rough ledge about two feet wide: the view from
this dizzy height was extremely fine, as the town of _Kirkwall_, the
adjacent islands, and numerous lochs, appear to lie in a panoramic view
beneath the feet: but we were truly glad to re-enter the belfry, as the
want of security on the ledge quite destroyed the pleasure arising from
so fine a prospect.
On leaving the Cathedral of _St. Magnus_, we stepped aside, between the
enormous circular columns before mentioned, to observe the only
sepulchral arch of any antique appearance in the place. There was a
shield sculptured at the apex, bearing three _hearts_ as a device; from
which we conjectured that it must have received the ashes of a
_Douglas_—the _heart_ having been the device of this family ever since
the heart of the far-famed _Bruce_ was conveyed, by that king’s desire,
to the _Holy Land_, by an Earl _Douglas_[43].
This noble cathedral is said to have been built in the year 1200, and is
in an excellent state of preservation.
On the right of _St. Magnus_ stand the ruins of the palaces formerly
inhabited by the Earls and Bishops of _Orkney_. The cathedral and palace
are within a stone’s throw of each other; but the latter stands on each
side of a space which appears to have been the former court-yard of the
building. The entrance to this court-yard is by a low arched gateway.
The palace of the Earls is in better preservation than the cathedral;
and it is to be regretted, that the dilapidations to which it is exposed
are suffered to take place.
The corners of the Earl’s palace are laden with immense turrets, which
give the building a very heavy appearance. The main portal is a massy
low doorway; and the ascent to the great hall is by a fine broad flight
of stone steps. Within the hall are two arched fire-places, each
sufficiently capacious to roast a whole ox at a time. One of the
fire-places is formed beneath an arch constructed in the usual way; but
the other is considered as a curiosity in architecture: it is a plane
arch, supported by the transverse joining of the stones without the aid
of cement. The windows of the hall are high and arched, but without
either frame-work or glass.
The Bishop’s palace is now nearly destroyed; and, from the unceasing
attacks made upon it, will soon be entirely so.
It is difficult to ascertain the original shape of this venerable
structure; there being but two walls now remaining. At the end of one of
these walls is a circular tower, of great strength and solidity, which,
probably, was intended for the defence of the palace. Although the Earl
and the Bishop had their residences so near to each other, yet the
temporal and ecclesiastical Chiefs were ever at variance, and their
quarrels and intrigues occupy a large portion of the _Orkney_ history.
The town of _Kirkwall_ consists of one long narrow street, which, from
its proximity to the sea, and its central situation, was chosen to be
the metropolis of the _Orkneys_ many years ago: it is now a royal burgh,
and it sends one member to Parliament. The street is generally damp and
muddy, and there are very few good-looking houses in it. The house of a
gentleman of the name of _Baikie_ has five or six trees growing before
it; and these are, I believe, almost the only trees in _Orkney_;
although it be proved, from the number of roots dug up occasionally,
that the _Orkneys_, in former times, were by no means destitute of
wood[44].
The town is badly lighted; but, in this respect, it is superior to
_Stromness_; which place cannot boast of a single lamp. When we
mentioned this inconvenience, during a conversation with one of the
magistrates, he most ingeniously parried the attack, by asserting that
the inhabitants were all so sober and good, that they never quitted
their houses after dark; consequently the lighting of the town would be
attended with _unnecessary_ expense and trouble.
The people of _Kirkwall_ boast much of the _Ayr_, a public promenade
belonging to the town. The _Ayr_ is a natural embankment, projecting
like a pier into the sea, and it is washed on both sides by the water.
In summer time, the _Ayr_ must prove a very refreshing walk, and an
agreeable escape from the filthy street of _Kirkwall_.
With regard to the people of _Orkney_, it will be only necessary to add,
that a most unbounded hospitality is their leading characteristic; and
perhaps an eager curiosity is also an equally prominent trait. When a
stranger enters the town of _Kirkwall_, the intelligence of his arrival
flies with the rapidity of wild-fire: the old women, with their knitting
apparatus in their hands, stand staring at the doors; and they hardly
suffer him to pass, before his ears are assailed by a general inquiry of
“_D’ye ken wha that chiel is?_” This exclamation is repeated by a dozen
voices at once, at every door he passes in his route; and he will
perhaps feel uneasy in thus becoming an object of scrutiny to the whole
population.
The people of _Orkney_ are naturally grave and sober, with much outward
appearance of devotion; yet, at the annual fair which is held at
_Kirkwall_, they suddenly relax into the most unbridled licentiousness:
neither are they in general to be admired for the honour or liberality
of their dealings, as they delight in making what is called a “_gude
bargain_;” and they feel no hesitation in overcharging a stranger, to
accomplish this desirable end.
I shall here conclude this Narrative; merely adding, that the _Rosamond_
and her convoy again sailed from the _Orkneys_ on the 7th of _November_,
and arrived safe at the _Nore_ on the 17th of the same month; when an
inspection having been made of the _Rosamond_’s defects, she was
reported to be totally unfit for sea, in consequence of the damage she
had sustained amongst the ice of _Hudson’s Straits_; and she was
accordingly put out of commission, and immediately advertised to be sold
out of His Majesty’s service.
Appendix (A).
STATEMENT _of the_ VARIATION _of the_ COMPASS,
WEST FROM LONDON.
From the Latitude of 59° 00 N.
From the Longitude of 3° to 6° 28°
6° ... 12° 31°
12° ... 16° 32°
16° ... 18° 34°
18° ... 22° 36°
22° ... 26° 38°
26° ... 30° 40°
30° ... 34° 42°
34° ... 39° 44°
39° ... 42° 45°
42° ... 60° 45°
60° ... 63° 47°
63° ... 78° into Lat. 63° N. 48° & 49°
78° ... 81° 62° 40′ 48°
81° 45′ ... — 62° 38′ 46°
82° — ... — 62° 36′ 44°
82° 15′ ... — 62° 34′ 42°
82° 00′ ... — 62° 32′ 40°
82° 45′ ... — 62° 30′ 38°
83° — ... — 62° 25′ 36°
83° 30′ ... — 62° 00′ 33°
85° 00′ ... — 61° 30′ 28°
87° 00′ ... — 60° 45′ 22°
89° — ... — 59° 45′ 19°
91° — ... 92° 59° 00′ 11°
92° — ... 95° 59° 00′ 5°
Lat. of _Hoy Head_ 58° 58′ N. Long. 3° 30′ W.
—— of _York Factory_ 57° 2′ N. —— 92° 40′ W.
—— of _Cape Churchill_ 58° 50′ N. —— 93° 4′ W.
—— Where the Ships lay at _York_ 57° 8′ N. —— 92° 30′ W.
Appendix (B).
TABLE _of the_ VOYAGES _of the_ COMPANY’S SHIPS _to_ HUDSON’S BAY,
_since the Year 1773_.
Date. Arrived Arrived Arrived Whither Arrived at
abreast of abreast of abreast of bound. _Hudson’s
_Charles_. _Cape Diggs_. _Mansfield Bay_.
Isle_.
1773 Did not see Aug. 12 Did not see it CR Aug. 20
it
1774 Aug. 6 . . . Aug. 9 MR Sept. 5
1779 Aug. 22 Aug. 24 Aug. 25 MR Sept. 3
1780 Aug. 21 Aug. 25 . . . MR Sept. 4
1783 Sept. 2 Sept. 4 . . . MR Sept. 17
1784 Aug. 21 Aug. 25 Aug. 26 YF Aug. 31
1788 July 31 Aug. 1 . . . MR Aug. 15
1789 Aug. 4 Aug. 7 Aug. 7 YF Aug. 16
1791 Aug. 19 Aug. 21 Aug. 22 CR Aug. 31
1793 July 29 Aug. 2 . . . YF Aug. 11
1794 Aug. 4 Aug. 6 . . . CR Aug. 16
1796 Aug. 1 Aug. 2 . . . MR Aug. 20
1797 July 29 Aug. 4 . . . MR Aug. 28
1798 Aug. 22 Aug. 26 . . . MR Sept. 5
1799 Aug. 19 Aug. 21 . . . MR Aug. 30
1800 . . . Aug. 29 . . . YF Sept. 6
1801 . . . Aug. 6 . . . CR Aug. 16
1802 Aug. 4 Aug. 9 . . . MR Aug. 11
1803 . . . Aug. 4 Aug. 5 MR Aug. 5
1804 July 28 July 30 . . . MR Aug. 5
1805 Aug. 9 Aug. 10 Aug. 11 MR Aug. 16
1806 Aug. 1 Aug. 5 . . . MR Aug. 17
1807 Aug. 22 Aug. 29 Aug. 31 YF Sept. 18
1808 July 20 July 24 . . . MR Aug. 14
1809 Aug. 16 Aug. 20 . . . MR Aug. 30
1810 July 21 July 30 . . . MR Aug. 10
1811 Sept 13 . . . Sept. 16 MR Sept. 26
1812 . . . . . . . . . CR
1813 . . . Aug. 11 . . . CR Aug. 19
_Note._—CR signifies _Churchill River_—MR _Mouse River_— YF _York
Factory_.
Appendix (C).
THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS
MADE AT
OXFORD HOUSE, HUDSON’S BAY
_In the Year 1811_
UPON THE SCALE OF _FAHRENHEIT_.
Shewing the _Extreme Heat_ and _Extreme Cold_ of each Month.
JANUARY.
State of the Atmosphere.
_Extreme Heat._
At Noon on the 20th, 38 degrees above 0 Rainy.
_Extreme Cold._
At 8 A.M. on the 12th, 51 degrees below 0 Clear.
FEBRUARY.
_Extreme Heat._
At 8 P.M. on the 24th, 39 degrees above 0 Cloudy.
_Extreme Cold._
At 8 A.M. on the 20th, 35 degrees below 0 Clear.
MARCH.
_Extreme Heat._
At 8 P.M. on the 17th, 44 degrees above 0 Overcast, Rain.
_Extreme Cold._
At 6 A.M. on the 5th, 31 degrees below 0 Clear.
APRIL.
_Extreme Heat._
At 8 P.M. on the 14th, 57 degrees above 0 Overcast.
_Extreme Cold._
At 6 A.M. on the 3d, 22 degrees below 0 Clear.
MAY.
_Extreme Heat._
At 8 P.M. on the 30th, 65 degrees above 0 Cloudy.
_Extreme Cold._
At 5 A.M. on the 10th, 15 degrees above 0 Clear.
JUNE.
_Extreme Heat._
At 4. A.M. on the 22d, 85 degrees above 0 Thick fog.
_Extreme Cold._
At 5 A.M. on the 1st, 32 degrees above 0 Showers.
JULY.
_Extreme Heat._
At 5 A.M. on the 18th, 85 degrees above 0 Clear.
_Extreme Cold._
At 5 A.M. on the 29th, 35 degrees above 0 Cloudy.
AUGUST.
_Extreme Heat._
At 8 P.M. on the 17th, 80 degrees above 0 Clear.
_Extreme Cold._
At 5 A.M. on the 26th, 37 degrees above 0 Clear.
SEPTEMBER.
_Extreme Heat._
At 5 A.M. on the 6th, 78 degrees above 0 Clear.
_Extreme Cold._
At 6 A.M. on the 30th, 18 degrees above 0 Clear.
OCTOBER.
_Extreme Heat._
At 6 A.M. on the 4th, 45 degrees above 0 Clear.
_Extreme Cold._
At 6 A.M. on the 21st, 11 degrees below 0 Clear.
NOVEMBER.
_Extreme Heat._
At 6 A.M. on the 2d, 37 degrees above 0 Rather overcast.
_Extreme Cold._
At 6 A.M. on the 18th, 26 degrees below 0 Overcast.
DECEMBER.
_Extreme Heat._
At 8 P.M. on the 6th, 22 degrees above 0 Clear.
_Extreme Cold._
At 6 A.M. on the 23d, 31 degrees below 0 Cloudy.
Appendix (D.)
ABSTRACT _of the_ RECKONING _of the_ VOYAGE _of His_ MAJESTY’S SHIP
ROSAMOND, _from_ HUDSON’S STRAITS _to the_ ORKNEYS.
Date. Course Distance Latitude by Latitude Longitude REMARKS.
corrected. run. Observation. by by
Account. Account.