RADICOFANI, _October_ 28_th_.
I begin to despair of magical adventures, since none happened at
Radicofani, which Nature seems wholly to have abandoned. Not a tree, not
an acre of soil, has she bestowed upon its inhabitants, who would have
more excuse for practising the gloomy art than the rest of mankind. I
was very glad to leave their black hills and stony wilderness behind,
and, entering the Papal territory, to see some shrubs and corn-fields at
a distance, near Aquapadente, which is situated on a ledge of cliffs,
mantled with chestnut copses and tufted ilex. The country grew varied
and picturesque. St. Lorenzo, the next post, built upon a hill,
overlooks the lake of Bolsena, whose woody shores conceal many ruined
buildings. We passed some of them in a retired vale, with arches from
rock to rock, and grottos beneath half lost in thickets, from which rise
craggy pinnacles crowned by mouldering towers; just such scenery as
Polemburg and Peter de Laer introduce in their paintings.
Beyond these truly Italian prospects, which a mellow evening tint
rendered still more interesting, a forest of oaks presents itself upon
the brows of hills, which extends almost the whole way to Monte Fiascone.
It was late before we ascended it. The whole country seems full of
inhabited caverns, that began as night drew on to shine with fires. We
saw many dark shapes glancing before them, and perhaps a subterraneous
people like the Cimmerians lurk in their recesses. As we drew near
Viterbo, the lights in the fields grew less and less frequent; and when
we entered the town, all was total darkness.
To-morrow I hope to pay my vows before the high altar of St. Peter, and
tread the Vatican. Why are you not here to usher me into the imperial
city: to watch my first glance of the Coliseo: and lead me up the stairs
of the Capitol? I shall rise before the sun, that I may see him set from
Monte Cavallo.