LUCCA, _September_ 25_th_.
You ask me how I pass my time. Generally upon the hills, in wild spots
where the arbutus flourishes: from whence I may catch a glimpse of the
distant sea; my horse tied to a cypress, and myself cast upon the grass,
like Palmarin of Oliva, with a tablet and pencil in my hand, a basket of
grapes by my side, and a crooked stick to shake down the chestnuts. I
have bidden adieu, several days ago, to the dinners and glories of the
town, and only come thither in an evening, just time enough for the grand
march which precedes Pacchierotti in _Quinto Fabio_. Sometimes he
accompanies me in my excursions, to the utter discontent of the Lucchese,
who swear I shall ruin their opera, by leading him such confounded
rambles amongst the mountains, and exposing him to the inclemency of
winds and showers. One day they made a vehement remonstrance, but in
vain; for the next, away we trotted over hill and dale, and stayed so
late in the evening, that cold and hoarseness were the consequence.
The whole republic was thrown into commotion, and some of its prime
ministers were deputed to harangue Pacchierotti upon the rides he had
committed. Billingsgate never produced such furious orators. Had the
safety of their mighty state depended upon this imprudent excursion, they
could not have vociferated with greater violence. You know I am rather
energetic, and, to say truth, I had very nearly got into a scrape of
importance, and drawn down the execrations of the Gonfalonier and all his
council upon my head, in defending him, and in openly declaring our
intention of taking, next morning, another ride over the rocks, and
absolutely losing ourselves in the clouds which veil their acclivities.
These threats were put into execution, and yesterday we made a tour of
about thirty miles upon the highlands, and visited a variety of castles
and palaces.
The Conte Nobili conducted us, a noble Lucchese, but born in Flanders and
educated at Paris. He possesses the greatest elegance of imagination,
and a degree of sensibility rarely met with upon our gross planet. The
way did not appear tedious in such company. The sun was tempered by
light clouds, and a soft autumnal haze rested upon the hills, covered
with shrubs and olives. The distant plains and forests appeared tinted
with deep blue, and I am now convinced the azure so prevalent in Velvet
Breughel’s landscapes is not exaggerated.
After riding for six or seven miles along the cultivated levels, we began
to ascend a rough slope, overgrown with chestnuts; here and there some
vines streaming in garlands displayed their clusters. A great many loose
fragments and stumps of ancient pomegranates perplexed our route, which
continued, turning and winding through this sort of wilderness, till it
opened on a sudden to the side of a lofty mountain, covered with tufted
groves, amongst which hangs the princely castle of the Garzonis, on the
very side of a precipice.
Alcina could not have chosen a more romantic situation. The garden lies
extended beneath, gay with flowers, and glittering with compartments of
spar, which, though in no great purity of taste, has an enchanted effect
for the first time. Two large marble basins, with jet-d’eaux seventy
feet in height, divide the parterres; from the extremity of which rises a
rude cliff, shaded with firs and ilex, and cut into terraces.
Leaving our horses at the great gate of this magic inclosure, we passed
through the spray of the fountains, and mounting an almost endless flight
of steps, entered an alley of oranges, and gathered ripe fruit from the
trees. Whilst we were thus employed, the sun broke from the clouds, and
lighted up the vivid green of the vegetation; at the same time spangling
the waters, which pour copiously down a succession of rocky terraces, and
sprinkle the impending citron-trees with perpetual dew. These streams
issue from a chasm in the cliff, surrounded by cypresses, which conceal
by their thick branches some pavilions with baths. Above arises a
colossal statue of Fame, boldly carved, and in the very act of starting
from the precipices. A narrow path leads up to the feet of the goddess,
on which I reclined; whilst a vast column of water arched over my head,
and fell, without even wetting me with its spray, into the depths below.
I could with difficulty prevail upon myself to abandon this cool recess,
which the fragrance of bay and orange, extracted by constant showers,
rendered uncommonly luxurious. At last I consented to move on, through a
dark wall of ilex, which, to the credit of Signor Garzoni be it spoken,
is suffered to grow as wild and as forest-like as it pleases. This grove
is suspended on the mountain side, whose summit is clothed with a
boundless wood of olives, and forms, by its azure colour, a striking
contrast with the deep verdure of its base.
After resting a few moments in the shade, we proceeded to a long avenue
(bordered by aloes in bloom, forming majestic pyramids of flowers thirty
feet high), which led us to the palace. This was soon run over. Then,
mounting our horses, we wound amongst sunny vales, and inclosures with
myrtle hedges, till we came to a rapid steep. We felt the heat most
powerfully in ascending it, and were glad to take refuge under a bower of
vines, which runs for miles along its summit, almost without
interruption. These arbours afforded us both shade and refreshment; I
fell upon the clusters which formed our ceiling, like a native of the
north, unused to such luxuriance: one of those Goths which Gray so
poetically describes, who
“Scent the new fragrance of the breathing rose,
And quaff the pendent vintage as it grows.”
I wish you had journeyed with us under this fruitful canopy, and observed
the partial sunshine through its transparent leaves, and the glimpses of
the blue sky it every now and then admitted. I say only every now and
then, for in most places a sort of verdant gloom prevailed, exquisitely
agreeable in so hot a day.
But such luxury did not last, you may suppose, for ever. We were soon
forced from our covert, and obliged to traverse a mountain exposed to the
sun, which had dispersed every cloud, and shone with intolerable
brightness. On the other side of this extensive eminence lies an
agreeable hillock, surrounded by others, woody and irregular. Wide
vineyards and fences of Indian corn lay between, across which the Conte
Nobili conducted us to his house, where we found prepared a very
comfortable dinner. We drank the growth of the spot, and defied
Constantia and the Cape to excel it.
Afterwards, retiring into a wood of the Marchese Mansi, with neat pebble
walks and trickling rivulets, we sipped coffee and loitered till sunset.
It was then time to return: the dews began to fall, and the mists to rise
from the valleys. The profound calm and silence of evening threw us all
three into our reveries. We went pacing along heedlessly, just as our
horses pleased, without hearing any sound but their steps.
Between nine and ten we entered the gates of Lucca. Pacchierotti
coughed, and half its inhabitants wished us at the devil.
I think now I have detained you long enough with my excursions: you must
require a little repose; for my own part, I am heartily tired. I
intended to say some things about certain owls, amongst other grievances
I am pestered with in this republic; but shall cut them all short, and
wish you good-night; for the opera is already begun, and I would not miss
the first glorious recitative for the empire of Trebizond.