I Visit London, the Grandest City in the World.--Meet the Claridge
family and leave my testimony with them.--Visit Portsmouth, and the
Home of Nellie Grant Sardys.--Labor With Elder Connelly.--Rake Hay, and
Receive a Gift from an English Lord.
"On May 8th, 1878, a wet, disagreeable day, I walked twelve miles to
Brother John Wadley's. The next day I baptized and confirmed Mrs. Eliza
Wadley and her son Henry. I received a letter of instructions from
Elder John Cook, President of the London Conference.
"On May 11th, I parted from Brother Wadley, and took train for London.
At five p.m. I saw from the car window the brown slate and red tile
roofs of the great city, the home of five million people, and the
center of the wealth of the world.
"At Partington I left the cars and took the under ground street cars to
King's Cross, then walked three miles to Bishop's Grove, where I met my
cousin Lorenzo D. Young, Howard O. Spencer, Joseph W. Taylor, and Elder
Ashworth, all from Utah.
"Sunday, May 12th, I went with Brother Spencer to White Chapel and
addressed the Saints. In the afternoon I preached on the Commons. These
things are wonderful to me, and I keep repeating to myself: 'Who am I,
that my Heavenly Father should honor me, to be a witness of His Son,
the Redeemer of the world, to the inhabitants of the great city of
London?'
"Monday, May 13th, I met Brother Samuel Claridge, looking and feeling
well. I went with him to his brother's, where we spent the day, talking
with much freedom on the principles of the Gospel. We next visited
Mr. Claridge's boot and shoe factory, a large establishment. Here we
exhibited to the employees, views of Salt Lake City, and photos of
President Brigham Young, the twelve apostles, and of many personal
friends; always closing our talks with a testimony of the truth of the
Gospel, as taught by the Prophet Joseph Smith. I have joy in these
Gospel conversations.
"On Tuesday, May 14, 1878, with Elders Spencer and Claridge, I visited
Mr. Ward, Elder Samuel Claridge's brother-in-law, and family, and had
the pleasure of meeting Sister Millard, who came with us from Utah. I
also met Mother Claridge, who is eighty-three years of age, yet very
smart and active.
"It seems she had learned of my having been helpful to Elder Claridge,
her son, and in gratitude, she put her arms around my neck, and said:
"Bless thee heart, laddie, as long as I have one biscuit left, thee
shall have half of it.' She listened attentively to the testimony of
the man 'who had been so helpful to Auntie Millard, and who saved Sam's
money while in New York.'
"I was pleased with the confidence this numerous, intelligent, wealthy
family placed in me; and I sought to leave a testimony that they would
not forget. I talked one hour to them, which is a long time for me. I
spent four pleasant days with Brothers Claridge and Spencer, visiting
the Tower of London, the Crystal Palace, Albert's Palace, Westminster
Abbey, St. Paul's Cathedral, Madame Tussaud's Wax Works, Green's Park,
Hyde Park, Regent's Park, and the American Hotel.
"Following this brief sight-seeing respite, I attended a reunion of
the North London branch of the Church and had a feast of good things,
spiritually and temporally. The prospects seemed bright for me to do
good in connection with Elder Claridge, when the conference president
hastened my departure. Consequently, on Friday, May 17th, I accompanied
my cousin Lorenzo to Southampton, by train, eighty miles. We stayed at
Brother Norton's, a gardener, and I received many kindnesses from this
brother and his amiable wife.
"On Saturday, May 18, 1878, we walked to Portsmouth, twenty miles,
putting up at a hotel; Lorenzo paying the fare. In all my missionary
labors, I have gone without purse or scrip, trusting for the way
to open before me. This, as a rule, has thrown me among the middle
classes; and to this day I am bashful and awkward among the upper
circles of society; but feel at home among farmers and trades-people.
"On Sunday, May 19th, I attended meeting in the Saints' hall at two
p.m. Lorenzo occupied the time. In the evening I addressed a full
house, and spoke with great freedom. The next day I wrote to Thomas
Robertson as follows:
"Dear Friend, I spent four happy days in London--sight-seeing, walking
about ten miles each day, and I scarcely made a beginning. First we
went to the Bank of England--but I might as well stop: I cannot tell a
thousandth part of what I saw, and my predicament reminds me of that
of the Queen of Sheba, after having reviewed the rich appointments of
Solomon's temple.
"The massive-looking buildings of London, some of them twelve stories
high, are marvelous to me; but what impresses me most is the solid,
everlasting, never-tumbledown aspect of the old English masonry. The
present generation are departing from the ways of their grandfathers,
and imitating American fashions; building light and cheap, for quick
sale, and not for durability.
"But here we are at the bank, and what a jam! Several streets converge
as to a grand center, and every street is pouring forth a stream of
busses, cabs, drays, and pedestrians like two conflicting tides, they
ebb and flow, wave following wave; and none can tell why they come, nor
whither they go.
"We pass on to the bridge that spans the Thames. I measured it by my
steps. It is one thousand twenty feet long, and forty feet wide; and
the massive blocks of rock that form the abuttments, make a wall that
looks to me substantial enough to form the ground work of the Egyptian
Pyramids.
"Next in order with us was a boat ride upon the Thames; sweeping
beneath the arched bridge of highways and railroads, until we reached
Westminster. Our respect for the British nation would not suffer us
to pass the House of Parliament without paying our compliments. We
accordingly entered its honored portals, and bowed to the wigged
statesmen we met in the grand hall. We next listened a few minutes to
the monotonous reasoning of a speaker, and were impressed with the
respectful silence and studied order that seemed to prevail; then we
quietly retired.
"Wellington's and Nelson's monuments are worthy of notice. I cannot do
them justice, but while we were looking upon those splendid statues,
the spirit seemed to whisper, 'See what heroes England has produced.'
It was with relief, however, that we turned from contemplating Waterloo
and Trafalgar to a pleasant walk in the park.
"Of all the beautiful things that I see in England, the sweetest
to me are the parks, and no wonder; the Druids loved the sacred
groves--nature's temples, where the forest choristers ever warble sweet
praise to the Giver of all good gifts, the Creator of heaven and earth.
"But I came not to these lands seeking the glories and pleasures of
the world; and the eye, untutored, soon wearies of gazing upon these
brilliant scenes. With quickened steps, therefore, we turned our faces
toward Bishop's grove, where our brethren congregate. We never tire
of listening to their voices; and the sweet hymns often sung by our
English sisters are more soul-stirring to us than 'Rule Britannia,
Rule.'
"May 2,5, 1878, I helped to pack the goods of, and start, two families
for Utah: a busy, yet happy day. Portsmouth is noted for its excellent
harbor and costly dock yards, said to be the largest in the world. The
floating bridges and steam ferries pass from Port Sea to Goosport every
ten minutes; a penny (two cents) for crossing. The harbor is studded
with all kinds of watercraft, from the stupendous iron-clad battle
ships to the tiny pleasure boat.
"I often pass by the 'Victory,' noted as the ship on which Lord Nelson
fought his last battle, dying like a brave sailor in the very hour of
victory. Taken all in all, Portsmouth is a pretty place. England's
peace policy, i.e., prepare for war in time of peace, is at present
giving employment to many hands.
"It was near this place that the unfortunate "Eurydice" foundered with
four hundred souls on board. All perished but two; the most of the men
being below and dying in their rooms. Divers say it is frightful to
look through the windows into these cabins. The gruesome appearance of
the dead appalls the stoutest heart. So far, all efforts to raise the
ill-fated ship have failed; she still rests with her dead at the bottom
of the sea.
"Returning on foot to Southampton, twenty-three miles, at Warsash
I passed the residence of Nellie Grant Sardys, daughter of
ex-President U.S. Grant. The house outwardly has the appearance of
an ill-proportioned farm house. It is going to decay; the roof of a
lean-to has fallen in, and the gates and fence are sadly in need of
repair.
"Southampton is a pleasant place, with plenty of sunshine and fresh
air. The dwellings are not as compact as in most English cities; but
the parks and lawns, with their flowers, shrubs, and trees, give a
fresh rural appearance that I greatly admire.
"As I approached the ferry, the ringing of many hammers attracted
my attention. I noticed the hulls of two large iron-clads on the
docks. Today a thousand hammers are welding the ribs of these huge
sea-monsters; and cannon balls are being moulded by the ship-load.
Legislative hall, pulpit, and press alike resound with words of
encouragement, hurrying forward these so-called peace measures, which
are really instruments of death. It is but a few days since I heard a
clergyman say, 'It will be a great blessing if we can go to war, and
kill off two or three million of the working people: we are too densely
populated.'
"On Monday, the 27th, I walked to Lockersly, fourteen miles, and found
a family of Saints by the name of Paddock. I blessed three of their
children, and baptized one; also held an open-air meeting. It had been
ten years since they had a visit from a valley elder.
"On May 28th, I returned to Southampton. It was a pleasant walk, the
road passing through a lovely country, clothed in its spring robes of
green. The next day I visited many families of the Saints, seeking to
get acquainted, and speaking a few comforting words to each family.
"May 31st, by request of President Cook, I returned to Portsmouth, and
met Elder John Connelly, who will be my companion for the present.
President Cook wished us to move southward, and visit the Saints who
are somewhat scattered in the south coast district. We labored about
one month together, visiting isolated families, and small branches of
the Church; holding out-door meetings, and preaching by the fireside.
Brother Connelly's health was poor, yet he was a pleasant companion, an
excellent speaker, quick-witted, and humorous; and I believe if he had
been nursed and encouraged that he would have filled a good mission. As
it was, he felt discouraged and soon returned home.
"On June 13th, 1878, with Elder Connelly, I walked to Ashburn, ten
miles, and visited Sister Winchester. Her husband is not in the Church,
and he has been so bitter and abusive that the Elders have ceased
calling on them. We resolved, however, to take up a labor with Mr.
Winchester, and stayed three days, having a good rest and visit. Sister
Winchester was very kind and thoughtful of our wants; and when we left,
Mr. Winchester quietly slipped four shillings into my hand, showing
that his heart had been softened.
"On Saturday, June 15th, we visited Brother Elphick, and met a Mr.
Burton, a relative of Robert T. Burton's. He kindly showed us through
a gentleman's park, and garden. I was pleased with the order and neat
appearance of walks, lawns, fish ponds, flower beds, forest trees, and
well-trimmed hedges. At this place, hops are extensively cultivated,
giving employment to thousands of women.
"June 17th, we visited William Guy of Westfield, then walked to Rex
Hill, and dined with Mrs. Morris, not in the Church, having a good
Gospel conversation. We next took cars for Chalvington, and were kindly
received by Benjamin Guy, a farmer. Here we stayed four days--bright,
sunny days and as there was a demand for hands in the hay field, I put
on a 'smock frock,' and pitched and raked hay as well as the best of
them, blistering my hands, but otherwise enjoying the labor.
"On the fourth day I was called from the field to converse with an
English lord, the owner of the farm. He had run down from London to
see how work was getting on. He asked many questions about Utah. I
spoke of the state's importance as a stock-raising and wool-growing
country; referred to our lead, copper, silver, and gold mines; pointed
with pride to our educational record; and wound up with a synopsis of
the principles of the Gospel, and the object of temple building. He
requested me to drive him to the depot, four miles, and when we parted,
he gave me a sovereign, and wished me 'God speed.'
"Friday, June 21st, we returned to Bosham by way of Brighton and
Chichester. The walk was a hard one for Elder Connelly, who is not
strong in body; neither is he used to out-door manual labor. I wish he
had a better mission field. We found Brother Wallace and family well,
and glad to see us.
"He says when we are with him, he always has good luck in fishing."
I received a letter from Brother David R. Gill, telling me that he and
his family would sail for Utah with the 29th of June company. "Several
families will go from that place" and they wished me to come and see
them off. I wrote and got permission to make a short visit to Wales. I
parted with Elder Connelly, and on June 23rd, I preached in the Saints'
hall, Southampton.
Monday, the 24th, I called at Bristol to see President Jacobs, but he
failed to connect. While walking on the street, I saw a man fall dead,
the effect of sun stroke. I rode to Gloucester, then walked ten miles
to see Brother Wadley. I found him sick, and confined to his bed. He
thinks he is going to die. I promised him, in the name of the Lord,
that if he would start for the valleys, he should live to get there,
and have a home with the Saints.
Tuesday, June 25th, I administered to Brother Wadley, when he got up,
and walked a mile with me. He covenanted that he would pay his tithing,
and gather with the Saints. I walked to Little Dean Hill and visited
Sister Burris. Her little girl Emma is much better, but a mere skeleton
compared with what she used to be. I took her in a perambulator, and
wheeled all through town. I remember how bravely she stood by me, when
the people, angered by my testimony, threatened to mob me; and I love
her for her trustfulness, and purity of soul.
In the afternoon I went to Ponty Pridd. Yesterday and today, I had
attentive listeners in the cars; for I always tell the people where
I am from, and then, if they permit, I teach the Gospel to them. On
Wednesday, June 26th, I went with Sister Coles, to tell her parents
that she is going to Utah. They were surprised, and at first, angry;
but after I had talked to them, they said it was all right. After
dinner, I went to Hafod, where I met Elders William N. Williams and
Thomas F. Howells, and joined them in holding an open-air meeting.
On Tuesday, June 27th I visited Mr. Coles, gave him a "Voice of
Warning," and bore testimony to his family. In the evening I attended
a baptismal meeting on the banks of the creek near by, and spoke on
the necessity of baptism. I showed that Christ gave His life as a seal
of the divinity of the Gospel; also that thirty-four years ago today
Joseph Smith sealed his testimony with his life's blood.
The next day I was up at four o'clock. Brother Gill was sick and the
family were fearful that he would not be able to travel. I packed his
things, called the family and visitors into prayers, asked God to
heal Brother Gill, which He did, loaded his things on the cart, and
seated Brother Gill and his wife on the top of the load. The Elders
and a large company of friends followed on foot, three miles to the
station, where we met other families--Jenkin Thomas, Albert Jones, John
D. Evans, and others. Some of the Saints were short of money to pay
freight on their luggage. I talked with the agent, and his heart was
softened, so that the small sum that I gave him made up the deficiency.
I parted with Elder Thomas F. Howells and Brother Hughes, and took
train with the Saints as far as Pontypool. Here I bade them and Elder
Walter J. Lewis goodbye, wishing them a safe journey to Utah. While
waiting on the platform for a downward train, I wrote:
PARTING WITH THE SAINTS.
I see pale faces looking out of cars,
I hear the whistle shriek--the start and jar,
And the train, with its load of human freight
Fades from my sight, but still I wait.
Stand and look to the dim, dark, west,
With an aching head, and a throbbing breast,
Till a streak of smoke, like a thread in the sky,
Marks the path where the loved ones fly--
Flying by steam, with the speed of a dove,
To the Zion of God--the land that I love;
O beautiful scene, sweet vision of light,
To follow the Saints in their gathering flight.
The beautiful parks and fields are passed,
With the ripening grain, and waving grass--
The hill's green-sward, and the forest grove,
The singing birds, and bleating droves;
A thousand scenes so dear to the eye,
Appear like a dream as we pass them by.
We will not speak of the "mocking throng,"
The tained oath and bacchanal song,
The crying for bread, the tattered clothes--
All these we leave with Babylon's woes.
But we'll speak of the songs that ring in my ear--
"O Zion, dear Zion" and "Cheer, Saints, Cheer"--
"There is a land in Utah that I remember well,
And there the Saints in joy and peace, and plenty ever dwell,"
O may it prove a chosen land, to the dear ones going there--
And to this weary care-worn band, be ever bright and fair!
I cannot help but wish them well,
And yet my thoughts I cannot tell.
Beginning with Jones, who rang the bell,
The "out-door meetings" cried so well,
Swelling the audience by his loud tones--
Who can forget the crier, Jones?
Next in the list comes Jenkin Thomas,
Who pegged men's soles and pegged them honest.
His smiling face I loved to see,
He always looked so good to me;
And if the face is index true
To secret thought and actions, too,
Then Jenkin Thomas, as sure as grace,
Was "predestined" to win the race.
And John D. Evans, honest man,
Merits a name among the band.
Oft has his voice rang on the breeze,
Seeking not man, but God, to please.
And D. R. Gill, whose voice inspires
To actions, worthy of our sires:
Small in stature, but large in soul--
His birthright he has never sold;
It lies 'mong "Everlasting Hills,"
By crystal lakes, and mountain rills.
In Joseph's land, which, long concealed,
By Jehovah's word is now revealed.
There honey and milk and oil and wine
Are blessings Ephraim's children find;
And finding, bless their Father and Cod
"For the Strength of the Hills, and the Mountain sod."
And now, goodbye to one and all--
Parents, children, great and small.
I've said my say, and now I go,
The seeds of truth again to sow;
Scattering it with liberal hands
As I have done in other lands.
These smiling faces I'll see no more
Until we meet on Zion's shore.
Will they forget? and you, dear Kate
Wilt ever linger "at the garden gate?"
And think of him, who at Ponty Pridd,
Proved friend to thee, and brother indeed?
Oft will he long for thy voice again--
But, goodbye friends, here's the downward train.
On Saturday, June 29th, I went to Lockersley and visited Brother
Paddock. At seven p.m. we were visited with one of the heaviest rain
storms that ever I have seen. The water seemed to fall in sheets, and
soon the streets were like young rivers. Heavy thunder and lightning
accompanied the rain. I was thankful that I was under shelter. Sunday,
June 30th, I walked into Southampton in time for meeting; found Elder
Connelly and friends well. July 2nd, I held evening cottage meeting at
Shirley, and had a good time. July 3rd, I went on to Brother Quinton's.
Here I parted with Elder Connelly: he walked on to London, while I
returned to Southampton.