CHAPTER V

THE MILLING OF WHEAT

In order that wheat may be made into bread it is necessary that it

should be reduced to powder. In prehistoric times this was effected by

grinding the grain between stones. Two stones were commonly used, the

lower one being more or less hollowed on its upper surface so as to

hold the grain while it was rubbed by the upper one. As man became more

expert in providing for his wants, the lower stone was artificially

hollowed, and the upper one shaped to fit it, until in process of time

the two stones assumed the form of a primitive mortar and pestle.

The next step in the evolution of the mill was to make a hole or groove

in the side of the lower stone through which the powdered wheat could

pass as it was ground. This device avoided the trouble of emptying the

primitive mill, and materially saved the labour of the grinder. Such

mills are still in use in the less civilised countries in the East, and

are of course worked by hand as in primitive times.

They gradually developed as civilization progressed into the stone

mills which ground all the breadstuffs of the civilised world until

about 40 years ago. The old fashioned stone mill was, and indeed still

is, a weapon of the greatest precision. It consists of a pair of stones

about four feet in diameter, the lower of which is fixed whilst the

upper is made to revolve by mechanical power at a high speed. Each

stone is made of a large number of pieces of a special kind of hard

stone obtained from France. These pieces are cemented together, and

the surfaces which come into contact are patiently chipped until they

fit one another to a nicety all over. The surface of the lower stone

is then grooved so as to lead the flour to escape from between the

stones at definite places where it is received for further treatment.

The grain to be ground is fed between the stones through a hole at the

centre of the upper stone. It has been stated above that the surfaces

of the two stones are in contact. As a matter of fact this is not

strictly true. The upper stone is suspended so that the surfaces are

separated by a small fraction of an inch, and it will be realised

at once that this suspension is a matter of the greatest delicacy.

To balance a stone weighing over half a ton so that, when revolving

at a high rate of speed, it may be separated from its partner at no

point over its entire surface of about 12 square feet by more than

the thickness of the skin of a grain of wheat, and yet may nowhere

come into actual contact, is an achievement of no mean order. Stone

mills of this kind were usually driven by water power, or in flat

neighbourhoods by wind power, though in some cases steam was used.

It was the common practice to subject the ground wheat from the stones

to a process of sifting so as to remove the particles of husk from

the flour. The sifting was effected by shaking the ground wheat in a

series of sieves of finely woven silk, known as bolting cloth. In this

way it was possible to obtain a flour which would make a white bread.

The particles of husk removed by the sifting were sold to farmers for

food for their animals, under the name of bran, sharps, pollards, or

middlings, local names for products of varying degrees of fineness,

which may be classed together under the general term wheat offals. The

ideal of the miller was to set his stones so that they would grind

the flour to a fine powder without breaking up the husk more than was

absolutely necessary. When working satisfactorily a pair of stones were

supposed to strip off the husk from the kernel. The kernel should then

be finely pulverised. The husk should be flattened out between the

stones, which should rub off from the inside as completely as possible

all adhering particles of kernel. If this ideal were attained, the

mill would yield a large proportion of fairly white flour, and a small

proportion of husk or offals.

As long as home grown wheats were used this ideal could be more or

less attained because the husk of these wheats is tough and the kernel

soft. Comparatively little grinding suffices to reduce the kernel to

the requisite degree of fineness, and this the tough husk will stand

without being itself unduly pulverised. Consequently the husk remains

in fairly large pieces, and can be separated by sifting, with the

result that a white flour can be produced. But home grown wheat ceased

to provide for the wants of the nation more than half a century ago.

Already in 1870 half the wheat ground into flour in the United Kingdom

was imported from abroad, and this proportion has steadily increased,

until at the present time only about one-fifth of the wheat required is

grown at home. Many of the wheats which are imported are harder in the

kernel, and thinner and more brittle in the husk, than the home grown

varieties. Consequently they require more grinding to reduce the kernel

to the requisite degree of fineness, and their thin brittle husk is

not able to resist such treatment. It is itself ground to powder along

with the kernel, and cannot be completely separated from the flour

by sifting. Such wheats therefore, when ground between stones, yield

flour which contains much finely divided husk, and this lowers its

digestibility and gives it a dark colour.

In the decades before 1870 when the imports of foreign wheats first

reached serious proportions, and all milling was done by stones, dark

coloured flours were common, and people would no doubt have accepted

them without protest, if no other flours had been available. But as it

happened millers in Hungary, where hard kernelled, thin skinned wheats

had long been commonly grown, devised the roller milling process, which

produces fine white flour from such wheats, no matter how hard their

kernels or how thin their skins. The idea of grinding wheat between

rollers was at once taken up in America and found to give excellent

results with the hard thin skinned wheats of the north-west. The fine

white flours thus produced were sent to England, and at once ousted

from the home markets the dark coloured flours produced from imported

wheats in the English stone mills. The demand for the white well-risen

bread produced from these roller milled imported flours showed at once

that the public preferred such bread to the darker coloured heavier

bread yielded by stone-ground flours, especially those made from the

thin skinned foreign wheats.

This state of things was serious both for the millers and the farmers.

The importation of flour instead of wheat must obviously ruin the

milling industry, and since wheat offals form no inconsiderable item

in the list of feeding stuffs available for stock keepers, a decline

of the milling industry restricts the supply of food for his stock,

and thus indirectly affects the farmer. At the same time the preference

shown by the public for bread made from fine white imported flour, to

some extent depreciated the value of home grown wheat.

It was by economic conditions of this kind that the millers were

compelled in the early seventies to alter their methods. The large

firms subscribed more capital and installed roller plant in their

mills. These at once proved a success and the other firms have followed

suit. At the present time considerably more than 90 per cent. of the

flour used in this country is the product of roller mills. The keen

competition which has arisen in the milling industry during the last 35

years has produced great improvements in roller plant, and the methods

of separation now in use yield flours which in the opinion of the

miller, and apparently too in the opinion of the general public, are

far in advance of the flours which were produced in the days of stone

milling.

Perhaps the first impression which a visitor to a modern roller mill

would receive is the great extent to which mechanical contrivances have

replaced hand labour. Once the wheat has been delivered at the mill

it is not moved again by hand until it goes away as flour and offals.

It is carried along by rapidly moving belts, elevated by endless

chains carrying buckets, allowed to fall again by gravity, or perhaps

in other cases transported by air currents. Another very striking

development is the great care expended in cleaning the grain before

it is ground. This cleaning is the first process to which the wheat

is subjected. It is especially necessary in the case of some of the

foreign wheats which arrive in this country in a very dirty condition.

The impurities consist of earth, weed seeds, bits of husk and straw;

iron nails, and other equally unlikely objects are by no means

uncommon. Some of these are removed by screens, but besides screening

the wheat is actually subjected to the process of washing with water.

For this purpose it is elevated to an upper floor of the mill, and

allowed to fall downwards through a tall vessel through which a stream

of water is made to flow. As it passes through the water it is scrubbed

by a series of mechanically driven brushes to remove the earthy matter

which adheres to the grain. This is carried away by the stream of water.

After cleaning the grain next undergoes the process of conditioning.

The object of this process is so to adjust the moisture of the grain

that the husk may attain its maximum toughness compatible with a

reasonable degree of brittleness of kernel, the idea being to powder

the kernel with the minimum of grinding and without unduly powdering

the husk. By attention to this process separation of flour and husk

is made easier and more complete. The essential points in the process

are to moisten the grain, either in the course of cleaning as above

described, or if washing is not necessary, by direct addition of water.

The moisture is given some time to be absorbed into the grain, which is

then dried until the moisture content falls to what experience shows to

be the most successful figure for the wheat in question.

[Illustration: Fig. 13. First break rolls seen from one end. The ribs

can just be seen where the two rolls touch]

Cleaning and conditioning having been attended to, the grain is now

conveyed to the mill proper. This of course is done by a mechanical

arrangement which feeds the grain at any desired rate into the hopper

which supplies the first pair of rolls. These rolls consist of a pair

of steel cylinders usually 10 inches in diameter and varying in length

from 20 inches to 5 feet according to the capacity of the mill. The

surfaces of the cylinders are fluted or ribbed, the distance from

rib to rib being about one-tenth of an inch. The rollers are mounted

so that the distance between their surfaces can be adjusted. They

are set so that they will break grains passing between them to from

one-half to one-quarter their original size. They are made to revolve

so that the parts of the surfaces between which the grains are nipped

are travelling in the same direction. One roll revolves usually at

about 350 revolutions per minute, the other at rather less than half

that rate (Fig. 14). It is obvious from the above description that a

grain of wheat falling from the hopper on to the surface of the moving

rollers will be crushed or nipped between them, and that since the

rollers are moving at different rates, it will at the same time be more

or less torn apart. By altering the distance between the rollers and

their respective speeds of revolution the relative amounts of nipping

and tearing can be adjusted to suit varying conditions.

[Illustration:

Fig. 14. Break rolls. The large and small cog-wheels are the

simplest device used to give the two rolls different speeds.

The larger cog-wheel is driven by power and drives the smaller,

of course at a much higher rate of revolution]

The passage of the grain through such a pair of rollers is known

technically as a break. Its object is to break or tear open the grain

with the least possible amount of friction between the grain and the

grinding surfaces. Since the rollers are cylindrical it is obvious that

the grain will only be nipped at one point of their surfaces, and even

here the friction is reduced as much as possible by making both the

grinding surfaces move in the same direction. As already explained it

can be diminished, if the condition of the wheat allows, by diminishing

the difference in speed between the two rolls. The result of the first

break is to tear open the grains. At the same time a small amount of

the kernel will be finely powdered. The rest of the kernel and husk

will still remain in comparatively large pieces. The tearing open of

the grain sets free the dirt which was lodged in the crack or furrow

which extends from end to end of the grain. This dirt cannot be removed

by any method of cleaning. It only escapes when the grain is torn

open in the break. It is generally finely divided dirt and cannot be

separated from the flour formed in this process. Consequently the

first break flour is often more or less dirty, and the miller tries to

adjust his first break rolls so that they will form as little flour as

possible. The first break rolls not only powder a little of the kernel,

but they also reduce to a more or less fine state of division a little

of the husk.

The result of the passage of the grain through the first break rolls

is to produce from it a mixture of a large quantity of comparatively

coarse particles of kernel to many of which husk is still adherent,

a small quantity of finely divided flour which is more or less

discoloured with dirt, and a small quantity of finely divided husk.

This mixture, which is technically known as stock, is at once subjected

to what is called separation, with the object of separating the flour

from the other constituents before it undergoes any further grinding.

It is one of the guiding principles of modern milling that the flour

produced at each operation should be separated at once so as to reduce

to a minimum the grinding which it has to undergo. Separation is

brought about by the combination of two methods. The stock is shaken

in contact with a screen made of bolting silk so finely woven that it

contains from 50 to 150 meshes to the inch, according to the fineness

of the flour which it is desired to separate. The shaking is effected

in several different ways. Sometimes the silk is stretched on a frame

so as to make a kind of flat sieve. This is shaken mechanically whilst

the stock is allowed to trickle over its surface, so that the finely

divided particles of flour may fall through the meshes and be collected

separately from the larger particles which remain on the top. These

larger particles are partly heavy bits of broken kernel and partly

light bits of torn husk. In order to separate them advantage is taken

of the fact that a current of wind can be so adjusted that it will blow

away the light and fluffy husk particles without disturbing the heavy

bits of kernel. By means of a mechanically driven fan a current of

air is blown over the surface of the sieve, in the direction opposite

to that in which the stock is travelling. As the stock rolls over and

over in its passage from the upper to the lower end of the inclined

sieve the fluffy particles of husk are picked up by the air current

and carried back to the top of the sieve where they fall, as the

current slackens, into a receptacle placed to receive them. Thus by

the combination of sifting and air carriage the stock is separated

into a small quantity of finished flour, a small quantity of finished

husk or offal, and a large quantity of large particles of kernel with

husk still adhering to some of them. These large particles, which

are called semolina, of course require further grinding. Different

methods of sifting are often used in place of the one above described,

especially for completing the purification of the flour. Sometimes the

silk is stretched round a more or less circular frame so as to form

a long cylinder covered with silk. The stock is delivered into the

higher end of this cylinder which is made to revolve. This causes the

stock to work its way through the cylinder, and during its progress the

finely ground flour finds its way through the meshes, and is separated

as before from the coarser particles. Such a revolving sieve is known

as a reel. In a somewhat similar arrangement known as a centrifugal

a series of beaters is made to revolve rapidly inside a stationary

cylindrical sieve. The stock is admitted at one end and is thrown by

the revolving beaters against the silk cover. The finer particles are

driven through the meshes of the silk, the coarser particles find their

way out of the cylinder at the other end. Sometimes for separating

very coarse particles wire sieves of 30 meshes, or thereabouts, to the

inch are used. Whatever the method the object is to separate at once

the finished flour and offal from the large particles of kernel which

require further grinding.

[Illustration:

Fig. 15. A pair of reduction rolls. They are smooth, and the

cog-wheels being nearly of the same size the speed of the two

rolls is nearly equal]

These large particles, semolina, are next passed between one or more

pairs of smooth rolls known as reduction rolls (Fig. 15). These are

set rather nearer together than the break rolls, and the difference

in speed between each roll and its partner is quite small. The object

of reduction is to reduce the size of the large particles of semolina

and to produce thereby finely divided flour. The stock from the first

pair or pairs of reduction rolls contains much finely ground flour

mixed with coarser particles of kernel with or without adherent husk.

It is at once submitted to the separation and purification processes

as above described. This yields a large quantity of finished flour

which is very white and free from husk. It represents commercially

the highest grade of flour separated in the mill and is described

technically as patents. A small amount of finished offal is also

separated at this stage.

The coarse particles of kernel with adherent husk from which the flour

and offal have been separated are now passed through a second pair of

break rolls more finely fluted than before, known as the second break.

These are set closer together than the first break rolls. Their object

is to rub off more kernel from the husk. The stock from them is again

separated, the flour and finished offal being removed as before. The

coarser particles are again reduced by smooth reduction rolls, and a

second large quantity of flour separated. This is commercially high

grade flour and is usually mixed with the patents already separated.

The coarse particles left after this separation are usually subjected

to a third and a fourth break, each of which is succeeded by one or

two reductions. Separation of the stock and purification of the flour

take place after each rolling, so that as soon as any flour or husk is

finely ground it may be at once separated without further grinding.

The last pair of fluted rolls, the fourth break, are set so closely

together that they practically touch both sides of the pieces of

husk which pass through them. They are intended to scrape the last

particles of kernel from the husk. This is very severe treatment, and

usually results in the production of much finely powdered husk which

goes through the sifting silk and cannot be separated from the flour.

The flour from the fourth break is therefore usually discoloured by the

presence of much finely divided husk. For this reason it ranks as of

low commercial grade. The later reductions too yield flours containing

more or less husk, which darkens their colour. They are usually mixed

together and sold as seconds.

The fate of the germ in the process of roller milling is a point of

considerable interest, both on account of the ingenious way in which

it is removed, and because of the mysterious nutritive properties

which it is commonly assumed to possess. The germ of a grain of wheat

forms only about 1½ per cent. by weight of the grain. It differs in

composition from the rest of the grain, being far richer in protein,

fat, and phosphorus. Its special feeding value can, however, scarcely

be explained in terms of these ingredients, for its total amount is so

small that its presence or absence in the flour can make only a very

slight difference in the percentages of these substances. But this

point will be discussed fully in a subsequent chapter. Here it is the

presence of the fat which is chiefly of interest. According to the

millers the fat of the germ is prone to become rancid, and to impart

to the flour, on keeping, a peculiar taste and odour which affects its

commercial value. They have therefore devised with great ingenuity a

simple method of removing it. This method depends on the fact that the

presence in the germ of so much fat prevents it from being ground to

powder in its passage between the rolls. Instead of being ground it

is pressed out into little flat discs which are far too large to pass

with the flour through the sifting silks or wires, and far too heavy to

be blown away by the air currents which remove the offals. The amount

which is thus separated is usually about 1 per cent. of the grain so

that one third of the total quantity of germ present in the grain is

not removed as such. Considerable difficulties arise in attempting to

trace this fraction, and at present it is impossible to state with

certainty what becomes of it. The germ which is separated is sold by

the ordinary miller to certain firms which manufacture what are known

as germ flours. It is subjected to a process of cooking which is said

to prevent it from going rancid, after which it is ground with wheat,

the product being patent germ flour.

The Story of a Loaf of Bread · 第 5 / 8 章