having given a more exact Description of that than of many Towns which he
treats of. You will in his _Travels_ find a Cut of this Vessel, which will
give you a more perfect Idea of it than any Narrative whatsoever. The
Elector _John-William_, the Predecessor of the present Elector, gave a
Companion to this Tun, which is not altogether so large, but much more
adorn'd. They are both full of Wine. I remember that in 1719, when I was
at the _Palatine_ Court, the Elector ask'd me at Table whether I had seen
the Great Tun; and upon my saying that I had not, that Prince, than whom
there was not a more gracious Sovereign in the whole World, told me he
would carry me to it. He made a Proposal to the Princess his Daughter, who
was marry'd to the hereditary Prince of _Sullzbach_, to go thither after
Dinner was over; which she accepted. The Trumpets led the way, and the
Court followed in great Ceremony. When we had mounted the Platform which
is over the Tun, the Elector did me the honour to drink to me out of the
_Wilkom_, which was a Silver gilt Cup, of a large dimension. He took it
off clean at one Draught, and having caused it to be replenished, sent it
to me by a Page. Good Manners, and the Respect I ow'd to the Elector's
Commands, not permitting me to refuse the Chalice, I begg'd heartily that
he would suffer me to drink it off at several Draughts; which was indulg'd
me; and the Elector talking in the mean time with the Ladies, I took the
opportunity of his Absence, and made no scruple to deceive him, for I
return'd great part of the Wine to the bottom of the Tun, threw a part of
it on the ground, and the rest, which was the least part of it, I drank. I
thought my self well off that he did not perceive in what manner I bubbled
him; for I saw he was very well pleased with me. Then several other great
Glasses went round, and the very Ladies wet their Lips, which was the
thing that effectually contributed to demolish us. I was one of the first
that was overpower'd. I perceived those convulsive Motions that threaten'd
me if I drank any more, therefore I sneak'd off and made the best of my
way down from the Platform. I was endeavouring to get out of the Vault,
but was stop'd at the Door by two Life-Guard Men, who with their Carabines
crossing each other, cry'd, _Stand, there's no coming this way_. I
conjur'd them to let me pass, and told them that I had very important
Reasons for my departure; but I might as well have talk'd to the Wind. I
found my self in a terrible Quandary: To get up again to the head of the
Tun was Death: What would become of me I could not tell. In short I crept
under the Tun, and there hoped to hide my self; but it was a fruitless
Precaution: There's no avoiding a Man's Destiny. It was my Fate to be
carry'd out of the Vault, and to know nothing of the matter. For the
Elector perceiv'd I was a Deserter, and I heard him say, _Where is he?
What's become of him? Let him be look'd after, and brought up to me dead
or alive_. The Guards at the Door being examin'd said that I came that way
in order to get out, but that they sent me back again. All these
Inquiries, which I heard from my Hole, made me burrow my self the more. I
crept under the Covert of a couple of Boards I met with by chance, where
nothing but a Cat, Devil, or Page could possibly find me out. But a little
Page, who was indeed both Devil and Page too, ferreted me, and baul'd out
like one that was mad, _Here he is! Here he is!_ and then I was taken out
of my Covert. You may imagine what a silly Figure I made. I was carry'd
before my Judge, who was the Elector himself. But I took the liberty to
challenge both him and all the Gentlemen in his Retinue, as being Parties
in the Cause. _Alas! my little Gentleman_, said the Prince to me, _You
refuse us for your Judges; I will appoint you others then, and we shall
see whether you come off any better_. He nominated the Princess his
Daughter, and her Ladies to try me, and the Elector was my Accuser. After
pleading my own Cause they put it to the Vote, and I was condemn'd
unanimously to drink as long as I could swallow. The Elector said, that as
he was the Sovereign he would mitigate my Sentence; that I should that day
drink four Pint Glasses of Wine, and that for a Fortnight running I should
tip off the like Glass to his Health immediately after Dinner. Every body
admir'd the Elector's Clemency, and whether I did or not, I was fain to do
as they did, and to return him Thanks. Then I underwent the heaviest part
of my Sentence; I did not lose my Life indeed, but for some Hours I lost
both my Speech and my Reason. I was carry'd to a Bed, where when I came
to my self I was told that my Accusers were in the same pickle as I was;
and that none of them went out of the Vault in the same manner as they
enter'd it. Next day the Elector was so good as to mitigate the remaining
part of my Sentence, and excus'd me from the Penance to which I was
condemn'd, upon my promising him that I wou'd make one at his Table for a
Month to come.
_I am_, &c.
[Illustration]
LETTER XX.
_SIR_, _Manheim, March 17, 1730._
In going from _Heidelberg_ to MANHEIM we leave the _Necker_ on the right
hand, but keep almost all the way by the side of that River. 'Tis three
Leagues from one City to the other, over a fruitful Plain. _Manheim_ lies
between the _Rhine_ and the _Necker_, in a marshy Country, which has
always been reckon'd very unwholesome. About fourscore Years ago this City
was but a Village. _Frederic_ Elector _Palatine_, who was chose King of
_Bohemia_, caus'd it to be fortify'd, and built a Castle or Citadel there,
which he call'd _Fredericsbourg_. At the same time a Town was built, of
which all the Streets run parallel, the chief that passes thro' the middle
of the Town was planted with Trees after the manner of _Holland_. But the
_French_ having taken _Manheim_ in 1693, raz'd it to the ground, and by
the Treaty of _Nimeguen_ it was stipulated that _Manheim_ should be
demolished; which was done accordingly. _John-William_ of _Newbourg_, the
last Elector, began again to fortify _Manheim_, according to the Plans
laid down by the famous _Cohorn_; but those Works were suspended, so that
no more than two Bastions and a Courtain were finish'd. When the present
Elector _Charles-Philip_ came to live at _Manheim_ he caus'd those Works
to be resumed which his Brother had discontinued, and to be carried on
with such Diligence that in a few Years he put the Place in a state of
Defence[131]. The Fortifications are all fac'd with Brick; and _Manheim_
is now one of the best Places in all _Germany_.
This City has three fine Gates, of which that of the _Necker_ is the most
magnificent, and the best adorned; in which one sees beautiful
Basso-relievos, after a Plan very happily executed. This Gate opens
towards a long and spacious Street, at the end of which stands the
Elector's Palace, one of the largest and most substantial Buildings in
_Europe_. It were to be wish'd indeed that the Architecture had been more
regular: Never had any Architect more Advantage, for he built it new from
the Foundation, was not stinted for want of room, and as he set no Limits
to his Expence, I should have thought that a masterly hand might have
produc'd something curious. Nevertheless there are Faults in the Building
which are shocking to such as have the least Skill in Architecture;
insomuch that they who have a Taste for that Science are sorry that a
Building which has been so expensive has been no better conducted. The
Situation of this Palace is indeed very fine, at the end of the City, and
of a very noble large Street, which like all the rest runs in a strait
Line. The Palace, which has a great Square before it, consists of a large
number of Lodging-Rooms, with a great high Pavilion in the middle, and two
advanc'd Wings, with ample Pavilions at the ends; where two other very
extensive Wings rise on both sides that are likewise terminated by
Pavilions, behind which there are other Lodging-Rooms. The inside of the
Palace is form'd by two great Courts, which are to be separated by an open
Gallery or Terrass, the Model of which is very much adorned with
Architecture; but I can't think it will look well when 'tis done. The
Apartments are adorn'd with fine noble Floors and Cielings, and have the
finest Prospect in the World to _Spire_, _Franckendahl_, _Worms_, and all
the Country in general, as far as the Mountains of _Alsace_, which
consists wholly of Towns and Villages. All this fine fruitful Country is
water'd by the _Rhine_, which passes behind the Palace of _Manheim_, and
washes its Fortifications. Upon this beautiful Canal there are to be the
Gardens of the Palace, for which there are intended two Courtains and a
Bastion.
'Tis almost inconceivable how the Elector was able to get all the Works
about _Manheim_ finished in so few Years; for in short I remember to have
seen Partridges where there are now Houses and Palaces. The whole Town is
laid out in a most regular and charming manner; and 'tis without dispute
one of the prettiest Towns in _Europe_. 'Tis pity the Houses are not
higher: The reason they alledge for it is, that _Manheim_ is a fortify'd
Town, and that by consequence the Houses ought to be low. I know not what
Authority there is for this, since _Strasbourg_, _Metz_, _Luxembourg_, and
_Lisle_, are Places of much more Importance than _Manheim_, and yet the
Houses are as high there as they are in other Towns.
The Palace is commodious, and yet, for what reason I know not, the Elector
does not live in it[132]. Some say that he has been told of so many
Faults in it as have quite put him out of conceit with it, and others that
'tis because a certain Astrologer prophesy'd he would die there; but I am
apt to believe that the latter Reason is no more than a Joke, and I dare
to say that the Elector is too wise a Man to credit it. Mean time this
Prince dwells in a House belonging to a _Jew_, to which several other
private Houses are join'd; but for all that the Lodgings are very bad.
There can't be a better-natur'd Man than _Charles-Philip_ of _Newbourg_,
Elector _Palatine_. He is the best of Masters, and the most affable of
Princes. He is reckoned extremely handsome, and one of the chief Dancers
in his time; and he has a noble Aspect. His Behaviour and Conversation
engage one to love him, and to pay one's court to him out of pure
Inclination. He formerly was fond of Pomp and Pleasure, but since the loss
of his only Daughter and his Son-in-law, who died within a few Years one
of another, he seems to be no longer taken with what was heretofore his
Amusement. The Elector has been twice marry'd, _viz._ first to
_Louisa-Charlotte_ Princess of _Radzeville_, and secondly to _Theresa
Lubomirski_, both _Polish_ Ladies. The former left him a Daughter that was
marry'd to _Joseph-Charles_ Prince _Palatine_ of _Sultzbach_, but died in
1728; as did her Husband the Year following. This Princess had such Beauty
and Merit, that she was the Comfort of her Father and the Admiration of
her Acquaintance. She left three young Princesses, whom the Elector causes
to be educated at his Court, where they are now all that he has to delight
him; but then they incessantly renew to him the sorrowful Remembrance of a
Daughter who was extremely dear to him.
The Death of that Princess has been a very great Affliction to the
Elector, and chang'd the Face of the _Palatine_ Court. Indeed as to
Affability, and to the Goodness of his Temper, he is still the same
Elector, but he has no longer that Gaiety of Humour which his Daughter's
Company rais'd in him; for she had a thousand different Amusements for
him, and Pleasures and Merriment every where accompany'd her. The Elector
eats always in private, except on Holidays, and when there's any foreign
Prince at his Court. After he has been in public at Mass, he commonly
stops in one of his Apartments to chat with the Courtiers, or to play at
Billiards till Dinner-time. After Dinner he goes to Bed, and lies there
two Hours; then he rises, and after having caus'd himself to be dress'd,
he gives Audience to his Ministers, and to such private Persons as want to
talk with him. He is very attentive to those who speak to him, and answers
them with Good-nature and Kindness. He seldom refuses what is in his power
to grant; and when Reasons force him to a denial, 'tis visible that he is
uneasy, and he refuses in so civil a manner, that People go away at least
comforted, if not contented. At six o'clock in the Evening the whole Court
meets in his Electoral Highness's Apartment, where there is Play till nine
o'clock, and then the Elector retires, makes a very slight Supper, and
goes to Bed in good time.
Tho' the Elector dines in private there's always a Table sumptuously
serv'd for the hereditary Prince of _Sultzbach_, Brother to him who was
the Elector's Son-in-law. This passes for the Elector's Table, is spread
for eighteen Guests, and is serv'd by Pages.
The Prince _de Sultzbach_ is look'd upon as the Elector's Heir, because
'tis not supposed that the Elector's Brother, the Elector of _Mentz_,
would be willing to quit the first Electorate of the Empire, and the
great Benefices which he possesses, to become Elector _Palatine_, if he
should happen to survive his Brother[133]. The Bishop of _Augsbourg_, the
Elector's second Brother, being a Priest, cannot succeed. The Prince _de
Sultzbach_'s Father is still living; but being as old as the Elector, he
is not like to survive him very long[134]. The Prince _John-Christian_ of
_Sultzbach_ was born in 1700. He is the Widower of the Princess _de la
Tour_ of _Auvergne_, who brought him for her Portion the Sovereignty of
_Bergopzoom_; and left him a Son, who is educated at _Brussels_ with his
Great-Grandmother the Duchess Dowager of _Aremberg_. The Prince
_John-Christian_ is tall and extremely corpulent, insomuch that 'tis well
if he has not the Dropsy. He spent the first Days of his Youth at the
Court of _Lorrain_ in _France_, and in the _Netherlands_, by which Travels
he acquired a great deal of Politeness. He was lately betrothed to
_Eleonora-Philippina_ of _Hesse-Rhinfelds_, Sister to the Princess of
_Piedmont_[135], and to the Duchess of _Bourbon_. This Princess is every
day expected from _Turin_, to which Place she accompanied her Sister.
Their Highnesses will then go and keep their Court at _Heidelberg_[136].
The Principal Noblemen of the _Palatine_ Court are the following:
_Francis-George_ Count of _Manderscheldt-Blanckenheim_[137], the Steward
of the Houshold, Prime Minister, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_.
He is of illustrious Extraction; is a Man of Integrity and very great
Probity, incapable of doing an ill thing, but not at all engaging in his
Deportment; for he is reserved, with an Air of Haughtiness, which is a
Defect that he was born with, and endeavours to conquer, but cannot. When
one knows him intimately he proves a good Friend, and capable of doing one
Service. He has very great Pensions from the Elector, and is the oldest of
his Family, which being pretty numerous, he does not live in a very grand
manner.
The Baron _de Sickingen_ is Great Chamberlain, Minister of State, and
Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is a Gentleman of a fine Presence,
of an easy and engaging Access, with profound Learning, and Sentiments
suitable to his Birth. He was Governor of the late Prince _de Sultzbach_,
Son-in-law to the Elector; and he imprinted such Ideas of Men and Things
in the Mind of that young Prince, as gave great hopes that his Government
would be happy if ever he attain'd to it. M. _de Sickingen_ was afterward
the Elector's Envoy Extraordinary to the Imperial Court; and I knew him at
_Vienna_ where he was exceedingly beloved. At his return he succeeded his
Brother in the Office of Great Chamberlain, which he exercises with the
Approbation of the whole Court.
_John-Frederic_ Count _de Globe_, is Grand Marshal, Minister of State, and
Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is very rich, and has a fine
Estate in _Bohemia_. He was once the Elector's Page, who finding him at
the bottom a Man of Integrity and Honour, took care of his Fortune, gave
him the best Employments at his Court, and raised him to the Dignity of
Count. M. _de Globe_ has been seldom at _Manheim_ for some Years past;
which is a Loss both to Court and City, because he liv'd very nobly, and
more than all, was very civil to Foreigners[138].
The Baron _de Wohlin_ is Master of the Horse[139]. He is one of those Men
in whom we meet with that Candor and Probity so much boasted by our
Fathers.
The Count _de la Tour_ and _Taxis_ is Captain of the Life-Guards,
Lieutenant-General, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. His Carriage
seems blunt and proud, yet he is familiar with those that are in his
Confidence. He has considerable Credit at Court, owing to his Sister's
being so long in favour with the Elector.
_Julius Augustus_ Count _de la Marck_, Lieutenant-General, Captain of the
hundred _Swissers_, and Knight of St. _Hubert_, is descended of an
illustrious Family in the Empire. He spent part of his Youth in the
Service of _France_, where his eldest Brother is now actually a
Lieutenant-General, Colonel of a foreign Regiment, and a Commander of the
Order of the _Holy Ghost_. He has learnt all the _French_ Politeness; his
Behaviour resembles the Man of Quality; his Temper is gay, and he loves
good Cheer, Joy and Pleasures.
The Count _Egmont de Hatzfeldt_ Lieutenant-General, Minister of State, and
Secretary at War, comes from one of the best Families in the Empire, This
Nobleman is extraordinary civil; his House is open to all Persons of
Distinction; he lives very nobly, and both his Lady and himself are very
fond of entertaining Foreigners. They were both intrusted to conduct to
_Piedmont_ the Princess of _Sultzbach_ first Wife to _Charles_ Prince of
_Piedmont_[140], and discharged their Employments in such a manner that
they had the general Approbation of the _Sardinian_ Court.
The Barons of _Hildesheim_ and _Beveren_ are both Ministers of State. The
former acquired a very great Reputation in the Negotiations that were
carry'd on at _Heidelberg_ in 1719, for the Church of the _Calvinists_
which the Elector had a mind shou'd be Catholic. The second has been Envoy
to the King of _Great Britain_. They are both to be valued for their
Merit, live very honourably, and make Foreigners welcome.
I could tell you of many other Persons of Birth and Merit employ'd at this
Court, but really my Letter would be too tedious. Nevertheless I cannot
omit the mention of the Baron _d'Obsten_, whom you saw at _Breslau_, after
he had quitted the Service of the _Czar_. He is settled here, but has no
Character. He and all his Family are become of our Communion. He has a
considerable Pension from the Elector, and is generally very well
esteem'd. His Son, who is a Captain, is a young Gentleman of Merit, and
his Daughters are young Ladies highly to be esteem'd for their good
Behaviour and Politeness.
The Count _de Nassau-Weilbourg_ lives here also. His Birth would engage me
to give you an Account of him tho' I were not induc'd to it by the
Consideration of his Merit. This Nobleman has an infinite share of it; he
is generous, magnificent, genteel, and civil, knowing what Family he is
descended from; but knowing it for no other reason than to discharge all
the Obligations of it. He is the Ornament of this Court, tho' he is not in
the Service of the Elector. His Father was Velt-Marshal, and Commander in
Chief of the _Palatine_ Troops during the Reign of the late Elector _John
William_. The Count I am speaking of was Envoy Extraordinary from the
Elector to the Court of _France_ during the Minority of _Lewis_ XV. He
then went often to the Royal Palace to pay his court to the Regent's
Mother, and there it was that I knew him; for that Lady and the whole
Court of France had a very great Value for him. That Princess speaking of
him one day to me, said she was very glad that he was a Count of _Nassau_;
for indeed, said she, he deserves to bear a great Name[141].
There are amiable People here of both Sexes who are very sociable, so that
'tis a Stranger's own fault if he misses of Amusement here; for such are
generally treated very civilly. As for my own part, I have received so
many Courtesies from the Elector, and so many Favours from his Court that
I shall for ever acknowledge them.
The Nobility maintain a Company of _French_ Comedians who act three times
a Week upon a very little Theatre, but both the Townsmen and Foreigners
pay. Tho' this Company, of which the Count _de la Marck_ has the
Direction is not the best, yet 'tis a pleasure to go to it for the sake of
seeing Company. In the time of the late Princess there were a thousand
Pleasures which there are not now, so that her Death is still lamented.
The Elector's Revenues are reckon'd at two Millions of Crowns. You may
rate them more or less, 'tis no matter; for my own part, I affirm nothing,
being not willing to imitate the Marquis _de Breton-Villiers_, who in his
Memoirs of the Regency values the Revenues of all the Princes of the
Universe with as much assurance as if he had been Superintendant of every
one's Finances. The Elector has about 7 or 8000 Soldiers, exclusive of his
Guards. His best Places are _Manheim_, _Juliers_, and _Dusseldorp_. The
three Religions tolerated in the Empire have Churches here, and the _Jews_
a large Synagogue. They are very numerous at this Place, and two thirds of
the Houses belong to them, as being either built by them, or mortgag'd to
'em. Some of them are very rich, and drive a great Trade with the _Jews_
at _Meiz_, _Frankfort_ and _Amsterdam_. 'Tis certain that they do a great
injury to the Christian Merchants, and that they are not honester here
than elsewhere.
Don't write to me, if you please, before I have sent you my Direction,
because I know not whether I shall stay long enough at _Frankfort_, to
which some Affairs call me, to receive your Letters.
Just now we hear of the Death of Pope _Benedict_ XIII. As I never saw a
Conclave, and am in the Humour of Travelling, I have an inclination to
take a tour to _Rome_. I shall not resolve on it till I come to
_Frankfort_. Which way soever I go you shall be inform'd, and I will not
fail to desire your Commands. Mean time I am always very sincerely, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXI.
_SIR_, _Frankfort, March 21, 1730._
At my Departure from _Manheim_ I pass'd the _Rhine_ over a Bridge of
Boats, and in three Hours time arrived at FRANCKENDAHL, which was formerly
fortified, but after having suffered by the general Conflagration in the
_Palatinate_, was dismantled by the Peace of _Nimeguen_, and so it has
remained ever since. It still bears the Marks of _French_ Fury; and a
great many Houses that were burn'd have not been rebuilt.
There's the finest Country in the World between _Franckendahl_ and WORMS.
I came hither at ten o'clock in the Morning, and spent the rest of the
Forenoon in seeing what was most remarkable. _Worms_ is not the Place now
that it was before the _French_ burn'd it. Its most wealthy Inhabitants
instead of rebuilding their Houses, retir'd to _Frankfort_ and _Holland_,
so that the Chapter of _Worms_, which is wholly compos'd of Persons of
Quality, is now the chief Glory of the Town. The Bishop of it is the
Elector[142] of _Mentz_, who was chose _July_ 12, 1694. This Prince has
built a new Episcopal Palace, the Contrivance of which is beautiful. It
joins to the Cathedral which is ancient, and built very substantially. The
_Lutherans_ have just built a fine Church, the Roof of which is painted.
In several Compartiments there's the History of _Luther_'s pretended
Reformation. That Doctor is there represented as appearing before the Dyet
of the Empire which met at _Worms_ _An._ 1521. You know that he was cited
to it by the Emperor _Charles_ V. His Friends, to dissuade him from
appearing, put him in mind of _John Huss_, who notwithstanding the
Safe-Conduct that had been granted him by the Emperor _Sigismond_, was
burnt by a Decree of the Council of _Constance_. _Luther_, without being
intimidated, said, that _tho' he was sure to be engag'd with as many
Devils as there were Tiles upon the Houses of +Worms+, he was resolv'd to
go_. He went thither accordingly, and appear'd the 17th of _April_ before
the Dyet, where he offer'd, with a Courage deserving a better Cause, to
maintain his Doctrine and his Writings against all that should go about to
demolish them from the Holy Scriptures.
The City of _Worms_ stands in the middle of a fine spacious Plain,
abounding with Corn, Vineyards, and Fruit-Trees. A Wine is produced here
which is call'd _Lieben-Frauen-Milch_, i. e. _Our Lady's Milk_. The
_Rhine_ is about three or four hundred Paces from the Town, but 'tis said
it formerly ran close by the Walls of it. Which way soever one comes to
_Worms_, one perceives at a great Distance the four Towers of the
Cathedral which are all built of red Freestone. Two drunken Fellows
mistook those Towers one day for Capuchin Fryars. Being in the Country at
a pretty good Distance from the Town, as the Sun was going down, one of
them said to his Comrade, _We have no Time to lose, the Gates are going to
be shut.--No matter_, said the other, pointing to the Towers; _Don't you
see those Capuchins there before us? They are of the Town, and are
going thither as well as we. You are in the right_, reply'd the former,
_let us drink the good Fryar's Health_. They had a Gourd Bottle full of
Wine, of which they drank every Drop, so that they did not overtake the
imaginary Capuchins till next Day.
There is not a finer Country than that between _Worms_ and OPPENHEIM, a
little Town upon an Eminence, on the left Side of the _Rhine_, to which we
pass over a flying Bridge. The Road from _Oppenheim_ is unpassable for
near two Leagues, because 'tis commonly overflown by that River; but
afterwards the Way is perfectly good to _Frankfort_. 'Twas very late when
I came to this City, but by good luck the People of _Frankfort_ who
formerly shut their Gates at Sun-set have lately chose to keep them open
till ten o'clock, so that for paying a Trifle one may enter the Town.