has not the Life and Spirit of his Father. He is very complaisant and
civil, and seems to me of a good-natur'd Disposition. He has been at
_Paris_, in _England_, and in _Holland_, where he marry'd the Daughter of
the unfortunate Prince of _Nassau_, who was drown'd in 1711, as he was
passing the _Maerdyke_ to the _Hague_, to adjust with _Frederic_ I. King
of _Prussia_, such Differences as related to the Succession of the late
King _William_ of _Great Britain_, to which they both laid Claim. The
hereditary Princess seems to me to be well behav'd; and she makes very
handsome Entertainments. The Court assembles at her House every day,
_viz._ at Noon, and at five o'clock in the Evening; and there they dine,
game, and sup. Foreigners are very well receiv'd there, and both the
Ladies and Gentlemen are very civil and complaisant.
The Grand Marshal, and his Brother the Great Huntsman, are Persons capable
of making a Figure with Distinction in the greatest Courts. The first
marry'd a legitimated Daughter of the Margrave.
The Baron _d'Ixter_, President of the Regency, and Chief of the Council,
is a Person of signal Merit, and capable of any Business, be it ever so
great.
Generally speaking the Margrave's Court is extremely well regulated. This
Prince is fond of the Nobility, and seeks to do them a Pleasure. He has
none but Persons of Quality in his Service. 'Tis great pity that this
Court does not come together again. The Margravine, who is Sister to the
Duke of _Wirtemberg_, resides at _Dourlach_, and never comes to
_Carlsrouhe_ but when 'tis a Holiday, or when some foreign Prince is
there. This Princess is actually very much indispos'd, so that I don't
think I shall have the Honour of kissing her Hand. The Margrave also
educates at his Court three young Princes his Nephews, the Sons of his
Brother. They are under the Government of the Baron _de Gemming_, who
takes very great Care of their Education.
As to the Margrave's Revenues, I cannot be positive what they are, because
I found that People who ought to know best, vary in their Calculations not
a little; some assur'd me they were 400,000, some 500,000 Florins, and
others much more. Be it as it will, 'tis certain that the Margrave lives
nobly, that every body is well paid, and that the Subjects are not
over-burthen'd. Farewell, Sir, I set out to-morrow for _Rastadt_, and
shall write to you as soon as I can, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XVIII.
_SIR_, _Strasbourg, Feb. 28, 1730._
It took me up no more than four Hours to go from _Carlsrouhe_ to RASTADT.
As soon as I alighted there I notified my Arrival to the Grand Marshal,
with a Request that he wou'd procure me the Honour of paying my
Compliments to their Highnesses of _Baden-Baden_. I had for answer, that
the Margrave was out a Hunting, and that therefore I cou'd not have an
Audience before next day. I had patience to stay; and having by Good luck
some Books at hand, I spent all that day in Reading, and the next day too,
but did not hear a Word from the Grand Marshal. Mean time as I did not
come to _Rastadt_ purely to read, and as 'tis a Town does not afford much
Amusement, since a quarter of an hour is enough to know all the Streets, I
was very chagrin. I sent a second Message to the Grand Marshal, but had
the same Answer as before. I thought it improper to insist any farther,
and gave over all hopes of seeing the Court of _Rastadt_. However I went
to see the Margrave's Palace, which his Father the late Prince _Lewis_ of
_Baden_ built from the ground. It is very much like to the Palace of _St.
Cloud_ near _Paris_, and seems to be a Building conducted with more
Regularity than I observ'd in several new Houses in _Germany_ left solely
to the Direction of ignorant Masons, who without a Taste for Building have
the Assurance to call themselves Architects.
The principal Stair-Case is large and lightsome. The Apartments have all
the Conveniences they can admit of. Those which are contiguous to the
grand Stair-Case are distributed into several Partitions, for Shew and for
Convenience. They are painted, gilt, and gaily furnish'd. The Margravine
Dowager to Prince _Lewis_ put them in this Condition against the Marriage
of her Daughter to the Duke of _Orleans_; and the Furniture is indeed rich
and well fancy'd. The Keeper shewed me the Closet in which Prince _Eugene_
of _Savoy_ and Marshal _Villars_ sign'd the Peace in 1714. 'Tis pity that
this truly magnificent Palace has no Gardens to it. There's Ground mark'd
out for that purpose, and if Prince _Lewis_ had liv'd they wou'd have been
finish'd.
After having seen the Apartments and the Chapel, which is small, but
exceedingly adorn'd, not knowing what to do with myself I went to a
Billiard-Table fronting the Palace, where I found some Gentlemen of the
Court as idle as myself. They treated me as a Foreigner, and were
complaisant to me. A young Fellow of a good Appearance, and who seem'd to
have an Air of Politeness, having refus'd as well as myself to play,
enter'd into a Conversation with me: And by degrees that Sympathy of our
Tempers, which was a Stranger to the Laws of Reason, made us talk to one
another with as much Freedom as if we had been old Acquaintance. I
complain'd to him that tho' I had been three days at _Rastadt_ I cou'd not
get an Opportunity of paying my Duty to their Highnesses of _Baden_. He
told me that I need not be surpriz'd at it; that since the Death of the
late Prince _Lewis_, the Margravine his Dowager, who was hereditary
Princess of _Saxe-Lawenbourg_, had introduc'd into her Court the
Ceremonial of the Eastern Princes; that she never appear'd but in a full
Divan, and that she did not permit any one whatsoever to come near to her
Son except the Bashaws and Dervizes who were of the Council. The young
Gentleman's manner of accounting for this matter made me smile, and put me
upon asking him several Questions. 'How! _said I_, according to the
Character I have had of the Margravine, she is very much of a Christian,
and of that virtuous Heroine which the wise Man, if he had been still
living, wou'd have propos'd to us for a Model. Indeed, _said the
Gentleman_, the Character you have had of her is right enough: The
Margravine has Piety and Virtues that render her valuable; but she has a
Haughtiness, and a certain _Particularity_ in her Temper, which is hardly
to be parallell'd. For instance, if she had receiv'd you it wou'd have
been standing under a Canopy by an Arm-Chair, with as much State as the
Empress. She wou'd have ask'd you two or three Questions, after which she
wou'd have assur'd you of her Protection, and then have dismiss'd you
without detaining you to dine with her, as is the manner of all the
Princes of the Empire; but 'tis not the fashion here, _continued the
Gentleman_. The Margravine commonly dines in private, and we who are of
her Court don't see her but at Mass. The young Margrave our Master wou'd
like well enough to see Company, but his Mother giving him to understand
that she does not care for it, he conforms to her Pleasure. The young
Margravine, who is the Daughter of the Prince _de Schwartzenbourg_, has no
Authority, because tho' naturally obliging and civil she durst not put her
good Qualities in practice, because the Margravine Dowager reproaches her
that she does not know how to carry it like a Sovereign; by which means
this poor Princess is oblig'd to be proud against her Inclination. If you
were to see her you wou'd be charm'd with her; for she is tall and
handsome, of a lively fair Complexion, but not languid, and has a very
noble Air. When the Margrave marry'd her she was an only Daughter, and the
Princess of _Schwartzenbourg_ her Mother, who had not lived with her
Husband for near fifteen Years, was not like to have any more Children.
But the Event has proved contrary; for the Prince and Princess of
_Schwartzenbourg_ are reconcil'd, and the Princess has had a Son, who has
frustrated the Hopes of our young Margravine of being some day or other
one of the richest Heiresses in the Empire. This has not advanc'd her in
the Favour of her Mother-in-law, who often snaps at her; but there being
no Remedy, the young Princess bears her Ill-humours with Patience. As she
is just brought to bed too of a Son, we hope she will have more Interest;
at least 'tis what we all wish, because she is a very good Princess. 'Tis
not a Year, _continued the Gentleman_, that our young Margrave has been of
Age, nevertheless his Majority is so controll'd by the Ascendancy which
the Dowager keeps over her Son, that it may be said 'tis she who governs
still. This Prince accustom'd to obey knows not what is the Pleasure of
commanding. There's the same likelihood of his being a Dependant as long
as his Mother lives; and indeed he ought to humour that Princess, as well
because she was always a good Mother to him, as for the Advantages she is
capable of doing him; for she is very rich, and has a noble Estate in
_Bohemia_, which she wou'd perhaps give to her youngest Son, who is Canon
of _Cologne_ and _Augsbourg_, if the Margrave disobliged her; tho' I
believe it must be a great Offence indeed that wou'd provoke her to
disinherit him, because he was always her Darling, and perhaps too the
most dutiful of all her Children. Such is her Tenderness for this Son
that when there was a Talk of his going abroad she wou'd needs go with
him; and she actually accompany'd him all over _Italy_. Some People were
indeed so ill-natur'd as to say that 'twas not out of Love to the Prince,
but because she was afraid he wou'd wean himself from her Company, and
break quite away from her. 'Tis said however that she is going to quit the
Court, and to retire to _Etlingen_, which is the Place assign'd for her
Jointure. We all wish it, not that we have any reason to complain of this
Princess, but because we hope then to have a gayer Court. For the rest, to
do the Margravine Dowager Justice, she has manag'd her Son's Finances with
a great deal of [OE]conomy. When the late Prince _Lewis_ died he left a
heavy Debt upon the Country, which was also ruin'd by the late War. But
the Margravine Regent has paid off all, and so happily retriev'd the
Government and the Finances, that when her Son came of Age she gave him
considerable Sums, and the Country was in a better Condition than ever.'
There the Gentleman concluded. After putting several Questions to him I
learnt that the Duchess of _Orleans_ had been promis'd in Marriage to
Prince _Alexander_ of _Tour_ and _Taxis_[123], that the Presents were made
for the Wedding, and that the same was very soon to be celebrated: But
when the Duke of _Orleans_ actually sent M. _d'Argenson_ his Chancellor to
_Rastadt_ to demand the Princess in Marriage, the Margravine her Mother
thinking this a better Match beyond comparison, call'd back the Promise
she had made to the Prince _de la Tour_, and concluded the Treaty with the
Duke of _Orleans_. The young Margrave marry'd his Sister by Proxy, in
presence of M. _d'Argenson_, and the Princess was conducted to
_Strasbourg_, where finding a Set of Domestics sent from _Paris_ to
receive her, she turn'd off all her _German_ Servants and proceeded on her
Journey to _Chalons_, whither the Duke of _Orleans_ went to meet her.
The same Gentleman from whom I learnt all these Particulars told me
likewise that the young Margrave, before he marry'd the Princess of
_Schwartzenbourg_, was to have had the Daughter of King _Stanislaus_, but
that the Margravine broke off the Marriage-Treaty which was very far
advanc'd, because the King was not able to pay down a hundred thousand
Crowns ready Money for his Daughter's Dowry. It was undoubtedly owing to
that Princess's happy Star that the King could not raise the Sum, for in
such case his Daughter would not now have worn one of the first Crowns in
the World. The Gentleman told me moreover that the Margravine was
mortify'd to the last degree when she heard that the Princess whom she had
refus'd for her Daughter-in-law was become the Queen of _France_. She was
apprehensive too that this Princess or the King her Father would take
revenge for the Slight she had put upon their Alliance, and she wrote a
Letter to King _Stanislaus_ to congratulate him on an Event so glorious to
him, and to recommend to him the Duchess of _Orleans_ her Daughter. _I
intreat you, Sir_, said she, _to prevail with the Queen your Daughter to
honour my Daughter and all my Family with her Favour. I will presume to
say that both I and Mine deserve it at your Hands for the Respect we have
always had for you_. This Letter, which was as submissive as the
Margravine's Conduct had been haughty, was receiv'd with very great
Civility by King _Stanislaus_, who, after having read it to the Queen his
Wife, could not help saying, _I am much oblig'd to the Margravine for
this Letter_, and he return'd her a very engaging Answer. 'Tis my Opinion
that at that time, instead of bearing the Princess any Ill-will he took it
very kindly of her that she had refus'd his Daughter for a
Daughter-in-law. The officious Gentleman would perhaps have inform'd me of
other Particulars concerning the Court of _Rastadt_, if the Margrave's
Return from Hunting had not oblig'd him to go to the Castle. I thank'd him
for the trouble he had given himself, and went and shut my self up at my
Quarters.
I set out next day for _Strasbourg_, and in less than five Hours arrived
at KEHL. 'Tis all an even Country, and admirable Roads. We travel thro'
the Dominions of _Spire_, the Bishoprick of _Strasbourg_, and the County
of _Hanau_. At _Kehl_ I paid a Visit to the General Baron _de Roth_, the
Governour of the Place, who entertain'd me at Dinner, and made me
exceeding welcome, but so ply'd me with Liquor that I thought my self at
_Fulde_ or _Wurtzbourg_. After Dinner M. _de Roth_ shewed me the
Fortifications, which I found in a very bad State. The Commandant told me
that he had taken a world of pains to represent it to the Dyet of the
Empire at _Ratisbonne_, but that he might as well have talk'd to so many
deaf Men. 'Tis certain that if Care be not taken, the _Rhine_ will wash
away the Fort one day or other, and carry it to _Holland_. The Marshal _de
Bourg_ said to me a while ago when we were talking of _Kehl_, that M. _de
Roth_ would do well to fasten his Fort with Chains to the Citadel of
_Strasbourg_.
There's only a Bridge over the _Rhine_ to pass from _Kehl_ to STRASBOURG
the Capital of _Alsace_, and formerly an Imperial City. The _French_ made
themselves Masters of it in _September_ 1681, when they came to the very
Gates of the Place before the Town had notice of their March, and when it
was in no Condition to make resistance; for whether they thought they had
no need of being upon their guard, or whether the chief Burgomasters had
been corrupted, the Town wanted but every thing. The Capitulation was
signed on one side by the Marquis _de Louvois_, and the Baron _de Monclar_
Commandant in _Alsace_; and on the other by eight Deputies of the City,
which was secured in all its Privileges, Prerogatives and Customs, both
ecclesiastical and civil. The Bishop was nevertheless restored to his See,
and the Canons to the Cathedral, which had belonged for 152 Years to the
_Lutherans_. _Lewis_ XIV. made his entry into _Strasbourg_ the 23d of
_October_ following, and immediately order'd a Citadel and other Works to
be erected, which have since been so augmented that _Strasbourg_ may now
be rank'd among the most important Places of _Europe_. The Marshal Count
_de Bourg_ commands in it, and has one of the King's Lieutenants under
him, who is always a General Officer. M. _Dangervilliers_[124] formerly
Intendant of _Dauphiny_, is Intendant of the Province of _Alsace_ and the
City of _Strasbourg_. These Gentlemen, whom I have been to see, receiv'd
me with prodigious Civility, and very punctually return'd my Visit.
The Marshal Count _de Bourg_ preserves a stately Mien in an advanced Age,
and one may easily perceive he has been a very fine Man in his time. He
was Page to _Philip_ of _France_ Duke of _Orleans_, Brother to _Lewis_ the
Great, and to that Duke's Favour his Advancement to Military Employments
is very much owing, tho' 'tis true that he has distinguished himself in
the Service. On the 26th of _August_ 1709, he defeated near _Rumersheim_
the Count _de Mercy_, who commanded a flying Camp of 9000 Men detach'd
from the Army of the Empire, then under Command of the Elector of
_Hanover_, afterwards _George_ I. King of _Great Britain_. This Victory
gain'd M. _de Bourg_ the blue Ribbon. King _Lewis_ XV. gave him the Staff
of a Marshal of _France_, and confirmed him in the Government of
_Strasbourg_. The _French_ Officers accuse this Marshal of Pride, but for
my part, I have all the Reason that can be to love him for his Civility.
M. _Dangervilliers_ is really more engaging than the Marshal, and is
therefore more beloved by the Officers. He is affable and civil,
complaisant to Foreigners, and lives with a vast deal of Splendor. The
Princes of the Empire that border upon _Alsace_ like him very well, and
think he is more candid, and less haughty than his Predecessors.
There's not many of the Nobility settled in this City, and of these few
that are wealthy; and therefore they live very much retir'd. The Canons of
the Great Chapter who ought all to be Princes or Counts, are not of very
great Service, because most of 'em holding other Benefices, only come to
_Strasbourg_ to pass away three Months there of their Residence, and by
consequence they are here as Strangers. The best Houses therefore are the
Intendant's and the King's Lieutenant's. There are always a great many
Officers here who are indeed amiable Fellows, and know how to serve, and
to be good Company too upon occasion. The Commandants of the Corps are in
Years, and Officers of Experience, and the rest are clever smart Youths
who long sadly to be fighting, and would fain make you believe the four
Corners of the World will quickly be on fire. I have not seen finer
Infantry than the _French_ Infantry at this present time. There are very
fine Gentlemen too in the Cavalry, but then they are not near so well
mounted as ours. You know the Cry with us is that the _French_ are ruin'd,
and not able to do any thing more. How the Case stands with them, I really
know not, but if one may judge of it by Appearances, it cannot be so. No
Troops were ever better cloathed, better paid, more spruce, nor finer. The
Officers are splendid; they game, divert themselves, and eat and drink
well, which does not seem to me to be the Life of People in want. Upon
these terms, I would be content to be in such want all my Life long.
The Garrison maintains a Company of Comedians who are paid by the
Captains, and commanding Officers, for the Subalterns are admitted
_gratis_. The Theatre, which is one of the prettiest in the Country, is
maintain'd by the City.
A Man that has a Taste for a plain home-bred Girl may here find Amusement
and good Blood. 'Tis observ'd that the _Lutheran_ Women are the most
beautiful, and the Sex at this Place is said to be very indulgent, and
very tractable; so that I should be apt to think, a Man need not be very
open-hearted to them.
Tho' _Strasbourg_ may be reckon'd among the finest Towns in _France_, one
can't say there's a single House in it that is magnificent, or makes a
grand Appearance. The Cathedral is a very stately Building of _Gothic_
Architecture; its famous Spire is one of the most lofty, and of the
neatest Workmanship of any in _Europe_. _Misson_, who 'tis like always
carried his Plummet and Foot-Rule in his Pocket, because he never fails to
give the Length and Breadth and Height of a Thing, says that 'tis 574 Foot
in height; and I believe he is not mistaken. _Erkivin de Stembach_ who was
the Architect, finish'd it in the Year 1449. 'Tis said that _Lewis_ XIV.
had a mind to have a Spire erected upon the second Tower which seems to
have been built with that View. He order'd M. _de Vauban_ to draw a Model
of it, and to compute the Cost, which he found would amount to several
Millions of Livres. The King thinking that he could employ that Sum to a
better purpose, contented himself with making a Present to the Cathedral
of the Ornaments, and all the Priests Vestments for celebrating Mass upon
the several annual Festivals; the whole of which is extraordinary
sumptuous, and becoming the Magnificence of one of the greatest Kings in
the World. 'Twas in the Cathedral of _Strasbourg_ that the Duke of
_Orleans_ the first Prince of the Blood of _France_ married as Proxy to
_Lewis_ XV. _Mary Lescinski_, the Daughter of King _Stanislaus_. This
Ceremony, at which I was present, was more magnificent than what was
observ'd at _Fontainbleau_ at the Queen's Arrival; and the Concourse of
_German_ Noblemen and Princes hither upon the Occasion was prodigious. The
Cardinal _de Rohan_, as Bishop of _Strasbourg_, gave the Nuptial
Benediction. Nothing can be finer than the Speeches which his Eminency
made upon that Solemnity: As they fell into my hands, I think I ought to
communicate them to you. You will find them _verbatim_ at the End of this
Letter. _Poland_ in this Instance, made a worthy Restitution to _France_,
which many Years ago gave the _Poles_ a King who was afterwards the
unfortunate _Henry_ III; and they have now in their turn given a Queen to
_France_. But _Germany_ may boast that the Queen derives from the Empire
that Fund of Virtue which is the Source of her Happiness, and makes her
admir'd by the Universe. _France_ had for a long time left off sending to
our Climates for her Queens. _Mary-Anne Victoria_ of _Bavaria_ was in a
fair way to be one, but she died a Dauphiness[125]. _Lorrain_, _Scotland_,
_Italy_ and _Spain_, had as it were engross'd the Crown of _France_ for
their Princesses. But I hope the Virtues of the present Queen and the
other _German_[126] Princesses who are now at the Court of _France_ will
oblige the _French_ to confess that if our Princesses have not Crowns for
their Dowries like the Infanta's of _Spain_, they have an Estate of more
Value than all the Wealth in the World, _viz._ Piety, Charity, and Love
for the People.
A great many young _German_ Gentlemen come hither for the sake of learning
_French_, and their Exercises, but I don't think they are a jot the better
for it, because the Masters of their Exercises are not better Scholars
here than they are in many Towns of _Germany_; and as to the _French_,
they speak it very ill in this City; for the Inhabitants talk
_High-Dutch_, and our young Sparks are so pleas'd to hear their own
Language spoke that they neglect to learn any other. Besides they always
herd together, and too easily catch one another's Vices as well as
Virtues. As they have not many Parts to shew, they spend their time at the
Billiard-Table, the Coffee-House, and often at other Places not so honest,
of which there are but too many here, this being a City as noted for
Libertines as any in _Europe_.
_I am_, &c.
* * * * *
_The Speech of Cardinal +de Rohan+ to the_ QUEEN_, before the Celebration
of the Marriage._
_MADAME_,