of _Coln_ or _Cologne_ by the River _Spree_, over which there are four
Bridges, whereof there is one of Stone, call'd the _Pont-neuf_. _Frederic_
I. in imitation of the _Pont-neuf_ at _Paris_, famous for the Statue of
_Henry_ IV. caused the Equestrian Statue of his Father, the Elector
_Frederic-William_, to be erected upon this Bridge, with very great Pomp
and Splendor; for no Prince in _Germany_ strove more than he did to copy
_Lewis_ XIV. in Magnificence and every thing else. When this Statue was
dedicated, the Count _de Lottum_, who was then Grand Marshal of the Court,
accompanied by most of the Courtiers on horseback, and by the City
Companies, assisted at the Ceremony, which was performed with an
_Apparatus_, till then unknown in _Germany_ upon the like Occasions; but
had been practised at _Paris_, when the Statue of _Lewis le Grand_ was
erected in that City.
This entire Monument was design'd by one _Jacobi_, who after several Years
Labour and constant Application to it, has brought it to its present
State. This skilful Operator has represented the Elector in a _Roman_
Dress, and in an heroic Stature; that is to say, above the natural Size.
The Statue is placed on a magnificent Pedestal of white Marble. At the
four Corners of the Base, are placed as many Slaves in Brass, who seem as
if they were chain'd to it.
When one has pass'd the Bridge, the King's Palace offers itself to view; a
great and stately Fabric, which _Frederic_ I. began in the Year 1699, and
a worthy Monument of that Prince's Magnificence, who was of Opinion, that
of all the Sums expended by Sovereigns, those which they lay out in
Buildings are least liable to Censure. And indeed Magnificence is well
bestowed, and even Profusion seems justifiable in Architecture, because
grand Edifices are the principal Ornament of any State.
The Palace has been the Workmanship of several Architects; the Name of the
first was _Schluter_, but he not giving Satisfaction was dismiss'd, and
went into the Service of the Czar _Peter Alexiowitz_. Whatever he did is
extremely incumber'd with Ornaments which have not a due Proportion. His
Successor was _Eosander_, a _Swede_, who is a Lieutenant-General in the
Service of the King of _Poland_: He was oblig'd in some measure to pursue
what _Schluter_ had begun; so that if he has not come off well every
where, he has at least that for his Excuse. The third was _Bot_, a
_Frenchman_, and now General Officer in _Poland_; who without dispute was
a much better Artist than the others. Every thing that he has done is more
simple, yet more grand, noble, and complete.
These three Architects having gone upon different Plans, you will easily
imagine that the Fronts are not perfectly regular; yet for all this, had
the Palace been finish'd according to the Models approv'd of by the late
King, it wou'd have been inferior to no Edifice for Grandeur and
Magnificence, except the _Louvre_ of _Paris_. King _Frederic-William_ does
not think fit to carry on this Building, but leaves that Honour to his
Son, the Prince Royal.
As to giving you all the Particulars of this vast Palace, you will be so
good as to excuse me: Be satisfied if I only tell you, that it consists
of four Stories: The Apartments are large, have fine Cielings, and are
royally furnish'd. In no part of the World did I ever see such a
prodigious quantity of Plate, Tables, Stands, Lustres, Chandeliers,
Screens, Looking-Glass Frames, Couches, Arm-Chairs, all of Silver. The
late King left Plate to the value of two Millions eight hundred thousand
Crowns, not reckoning the Fashion. In that call'd the Knights Hall,
there's a Beaufet which takes up one intire side of the Room, where there
are Cisterns and Basons Silver gilt, of an extraordinary Size.
The Furniture of the grand Apartment is very rich; there's a fine Gallery
adorn'd with Pictures, the Cieling of which was painted by one _Peine_, a
_Frenchman_, who in divers Compartments has skilfully represented the
principal Actions of King _Frederic_ I. At the End of this Gallery there's
a Saloon, which was formerly magnificent to the last degree, being
wainscotted, if I may so call it, with Amber: But the late Czar coming on
_Berlin_ in his return from _Holland_ and _France_, and not a little
admiring this Furniture, which was the only thing of its kind, the King
made him a Present of it: so that what had been amass'd with great Care
and Cost by several Electors, fell in one Day into the hands of a Nation,
which, no longer ago than the beginning of the present Century, was
reckon'd Barbarian.
The Palace had fine Gardens belonging to it before they were destroy'd,
and converted into a Place of Arms, and a Parade for the Guards.
Hard by the Palace are the King's Stables, a very grand Building, facing
the great Street. The Architecture without is _Gothic_, but the inside is
more magnificent; the Stables are broad and spacious, very lofty, and
very lightsome: the Mangers are of Stone, and the Pillars which mark the
Stands for the Horses, are of Iron, and adorn'd with the King's Cypher,
gilt: Over the Mangers are several great Pictures of the finest Horses
that ever came out of his Majesty's Studs. The Backside of the Stables
projects towards the River _Spree_, to which they can lead the Horses by a
Stair-Case without Steps, built in the form of a Horse-Shoe.
The Main Body of the House contains grand Lodgings for the Master of the
Horse, and the Officers under him. Over the Stables are great Rooms where
they keep a deal of fine Furniture, both for the Horse and Mule;
magnificent Sleds, with convenient Harness, adorn'd with Bells of Silver,
or Silver gilt; a great number of fine Arms; the rich Accoutrements of the
Horse which serv'd _Frederic_ I. on the Day of his public Entry; all the
Ornaments of the Bridle, the Breast-Leather, and Crupper, as well as the
Bits and Stirrups, being of Gold adorn'd with Brilliants.
Over the Riding-House is the great Theatre, where, in the late King's
time, Interludes and Comedies us'd to be acted before the whole Court; but
the Opera of _Roxana_ and _Alexander_ was the last that was acted on it.
It was play'd in 1708, upon the Marriage of King _Frederic_ I. with
_Sophia_ of _Mecklemberg_. In 1706, an Interlude was acted there, on
account of the Arrival of the Princess Royal, now Queen; intitled, _Beauty
triumphing over Heroes_; at which the Markgraves _Frederic-Albert_ and
_Christian-Lewis_, the late King's Brothers, danc'd, with all the young
Courtiers.
As we go farther down the great Street, we come to the Fish-Market, where
is the Hotel of the City of _Cologne_, and _Dorffling_'s Hotel occupied by
the Count _de Finck_. This Family is oblig'd for its Rise to the Marshal
_Dorffling_, who from an Apprentice to a Taylor rais'd himself by his
Valour and Merit to the highest Posts in the Army. The Story goes, that
when he had serv'd his Apprenticeship at _Tangermunde_, having a mind to
go to _Berlin_, he came to a part of the Country where he cou'd not
proceed without crossing the _Elbe_, but not having wherewithal to pay his
Passage, the Ferry-Men refus'd to carry him over; which so vex'd him, that
he threw his Knapsack into the River in a Pet, curs'd the Trade of a
Taylor, and went back to _Tangermunde_, where he listed himself a Soldier.
There being a War at that time all over _Germany_, it was no difficult
matter for the young Warrior to find an Opportunity to shew his Courage;
and he signaliz'd it in such a manner, that his Officers, who were all in
love with him, strove to advance him, and therefore made him known to the
Elector _Frederic-William_. This Prince who lov'd, rewarded, and was a
good Judge of Valour, did not depend upon what Fame reported of him; but
in order to see his Officers and Soldiers fight with his own Eyes,
conducted them himself to the Enemy, and very soon took notice of
_Dorffling_. He saw him at every part of the Field where there was Honour
to be won: He saw he was a sensible industrious Fellow, that he hated
Parties and Cabals, and that he had that _Germanic_ Probity which was the
distinguish'd Virtue of our Forefathers, but which we now content
ourselves with admiring. The Elector observing such a Stock of Virtue in
_Dorffling_, thought him deserving of his Favour, advanc'd him to the
tip-top Employments, and made him very rich. Envy, which is as old as the
World itself, and which like that, never stands still, made several of the
Courtiers jealous of the Fortune or rather the Merit of _Dorffling_, and
there were some who did not stick to say, that if the Marshal came to be
ever so great a Nobleman, he wou'd always retain the Air of a Taylor. This
being carry'd to _Dorffling_, _True enough_, said he, _I was a Taylor,
and I have cut out Cloth; but now_, said he, clapping his Hand to the Hilt
of his Sword, _I have an Instrument in my Hand, with which I'll cut off
the Ears of any Man that slanders me_.
This brave Fellow liv'd to a great Age, and left a Son who was one of the
King of _Prussia_'s Lieutenant-Generals, and Colonel of a Regiment of
Dragoons, but died without Issue. He had not quite the Vivacity of his
Father, but he had his Honour and Integrity.
Going out of the Fish-market, as we turn to the right, one perceives the
_Lutheran_ Church of _St. Peter_[2], which is a considerable Structure;
and then we come into that call'd the _Fryars_ Street, the Houses of which
are all well built. In this Street stands the Palace where the _Aulic_
Council meets, which in _France_ they call the _Parlement_; 'tis here that
all Civil Causes are try'd, and from thence there lies an Appeal to the
King's Council.
Beyond the Palace there is a Square, on the Right side of which there's a
Church with a Cupola which belongs to the _Calvinists_, and is look'd upon
as the Cathedral of _Berlin_: For you know that the late King made two
Bishops, one in _Prussia_ and the other at _Berlin_, and they were the
Prelates that crown'd him. They are since dead, and the present King lets
their Sees lie vacant. In this Church is the Tomb of the Royal Family.
There's a great Row of Buildings over against it, which consists of
several uniform Houses belonging to Merchants, and supported by stately
Arches with Shops under them, where are sold all sorts of Goods. Turning
round by that Piazza, brings one to a second Branch of the River, which
divides the Ward of _Coln_ from that of _Werder_. This River, which has
three wooden Bridges over it, is confin'd in a Canal lin'd with Freestone,
and form'd by two fine Kays.
The most considerable Edifices in the Ward of _Werder_ are the Royal
Custom-House, so commodiously situate that Boats can come up close to it:
The _French_ School, and their Church, which is serv'd by able Ministers;
some of whom, as the late M. _Lenfant_ (Author of the celebrated _History_
of the _Council of Constance_, &c. and Chaplain to the King of _Prussia_)
M. _de Beausobre_ and M. _Jacquelot_, &c. have acquir'd a Reputation in
the Republic of Letters. The Royal Hunting-House is a large magnificent
Structure for lodging the great Huntsman and all his inferior Officers:
There too is the great Dog-Kennel and the Magazines for all the Hunting
Equipage. Near this place is the Hotel or Palace for Ambassadors, where
are likewise entertain'd such Foreign Princes as are not of a Rank high
enough to be accommodated in the King's Palace. This Hotel belong'd
formerly to the Baron _de Danckelman_, Prime Minister to King _Frederic_
when he was only Elector, and being built by the said Minister at a time
when he was such a Favourite that he did almost what he pleas'd, he spar'd
no Cost to render it a Mansion worthy of his high Station. I was assur'd
by Persons of Credit then alive, that after it was built, the late King
had a Desire to see it, upon which occasion M. _de Danckelman_ made a
great Entertainment for him; and that while the Queen and the whole Court
were dancing, the King retir'd into his Minister's Closet, to have a
private Conference with him; and looking very earnestly on a certain
Picture there, M. _de Danckelman_ told him, that Picture and all that he
saw would soon be his Majesty's. The King not knowing what he meant,
desir'd his Minister to explain himself; whereupon he made answer, 'That
he shou'd very shortly incur his Displeasure; that his Fall wou'd be
attended by the Forfeiture of all his Estate; that he should be arrested
and committed to the _Spandau_ Prison; and that there he should be
confin'd ten Years, at the Expiration of which his Innocence wou'd be made
to appear, his Estate wou'd be restor'd to him, and he shou'd be taken
again into his Majesty's Favour.' The King, who was at that time very fond
of his Minister, and did not think he cou'd ever do without him, ridicul'd
what he had said as the Surmise of a Visionary, and was going to swear by
the New Testament then upon a Table in the Room, that this sad Prophecy
wou'd never come to pass. But the Minister held his Hand, and begg'd him
not to take an Oath which it wou'd not be in his power to keep.
I tell you this Story just as I had it from a Lady of Quality to whom the
King himself told it: But in short, let the Story be as it will, 'tis very
certain that M. _de Danckelman_ was disgrac'd, committed Prisoner to
_Spandau_, and from thence remov'd to _Peitz_, without any Companion but
his Wife, who generously desir'd to suffer Imprisonment with him. His
Confinement lasted much longer than he had prophesy'd, and when at length
he obtained his Release, he was not restor'd to his Employments, nor even
to his Estate. 'Tis said indeed that the present King, who on his
Accession to the Crown sent for M. _de Danckelman_ to _Berlin_, offer'd
him the Ministry; but that the Baron excus'd himself by reason of his
great Age and his tedious Imprisonment, which had made him lose the
Connection of Public Affairs. This Minister died lately, having lived to
the Age of fourscore. His remarkable Disgrace, and fifteen Years
Confinement in a Prison, had not sunk his Spirits, nor shock'd his
Constancy of Mind; and one shall scarce meet with an Instance in History,
either before or since, of more Merit and more Misfortune in one and the
same Person. He was a passionate Admirer of Learned Men, and a Rewarder of
Virtue. In a word, by the Disgrace of this Great Man, the State lost a
faithful disinterested Minister, and Men of Learning lost a _Mecænas_,
full of Zeal and solid Knowledge, who never fail'd to support by his own
Authority, and to procure a Reward from his Master, for all Persons that
apply'd to him with any Proposal that was useful and uncommon.
To go from the Ambassadors Hotel to the New Town, one must pass before the
House belonging to the Governour of _Berlin_[3], who is at present the
Marshal Count _de Wartensleben_; a Nobleman whose Virtues, long Services,
and great Age, challenge Veneration. The House he lives in was built by
order of the Elector _Frederic-William_, for the Reception of the Marshal
_de Schomberg_, who resign'd the Battoon of the Marshal of _France_ to
_Lewis_ XIV. after that Prince had revok'd the Edict of _Nantes_, and came
with a numerous Retinue of Gentlemen, to desire Employment under the
Elector. Accordingly that Prince gave him the Command of his Troops, but
the Marshal quitted that Employment, to accompany the PRINCE of ORANGE to
_England_, in his famous Expedition against his Father-in-Law; and he
likewise attended that Prince to _Ireland_, where he acquir'd great Glory,
but was kill'd in passing the River _Boyne_.
The _Governour's House_ is separated by a great Square from the _Arsenal_,
which is one of the compleatest Fabrics in _Europe_, and was built
according to a Model design'd by _Bot_, whom I mention'd to you before;
which skilful Architect has, upon this occasion, equalled any thing that
was ever done by the famous _Bernin_.
The intire Structure consists of four main Bodies of Building, which form
a spacious Quadrangle in the middle. The lower Story is of Rustic
Architecture, with arch'd Windows. There are three great Porticoes at the
Entrance to each Front. Over the principal Gate there's the Picture of the
late King, in a great Medal of Brass. The four Cardinal Virtues of a
Gigantic Size, are plac'd on Pedestals by the Portico, and seem to look
towards the King's Effigies, which is supported by Fame and Victory. The
_Corinthian_ Order prevails throughout the first Story, and is very
artfully executed. A Gallery or Ballustrade runs round the whole Edifice,
and is adorn'd with Trophies and Statues, particularly a very perfect one
of _Mars_, sitting upon a Heap of Arms of different sorts; and the
Decoration of all together is noble and majestic. Studs of Iron in form of
Cannon are plac'd at proper Distances, and support Iron Chains, hung in
Festoons, which hinder People from clambering up to the Windows.
The Inside of this _Arsenal_ is as magnificent as the Outside. The lower
Rooms are stor'd with a great number of Brass Cannon. The Walls and
Pillars that support the Arch are garnish'd with Cuirasses and Helmets. In
the upper Story there are several Rooms full of Arms, rang'd in such Order
as can never be enough admir'd.
Behind the _Arsenal_ there's the House of the General of the Ordnance,
which also contains the Foundery, where Men are continually at work.
Besides this _Arsenal_, there are several others in _Berlin_, where they
keep Field-Pieces, Iron Cannon, and all that belongs to the Train of
Artillery. 'Twas the late Margrave _Philip_[4], Brother to _Frederic_ I.
who when he was Great Master of the Ordnance began to put the King's
_Arsenals_ into a good State. But King _Frederic-William_ has finish'd
what his said Uncle began, and has put the Artillery on such a footing,
that 'tis a question if any _Arsenal_ in _Europe_ is on a better
Regulation.
A Rampart and a Ditch separate the _Werder_ from the _Dorothy-Stadt_, or
new Town, which is for most part inhabited by _French_ Families. It had
the Name of _Dorothy-Stadt_ in honour of the Electress _Dorothy_ of
_Holstein-Glucksburg_, the second Wife of _Frederic-William_, who with her
own Hand planted the first Lime-Tree of the seven great Rows which divide
this Ward into two Parts. The middlemost Row, which is the widest, is
inclos'd with Ballustrades, and forms a pleasant Grass-Walk for
Foot-Passengers. The Walks on each side are pav'd, and serve as a Ring for
the Coaches. Nothing is more beneficial and agreeable than taking the Air
in this Place, where you may have any thing that can be desir'd in a City.
At the end of one of these Walks is a Gate which opens to the Park, the
Walks of which being above a League in length, form a fine Point of View.
On both sides the Lime-Tree Rows, are Houses, among which the Palace of
Madame the Margravine, Dowager[5] to the Margrave _Philip_, Brother to the
late King, is one of the best. The late Margrave purchas'd this Palace
(which at that time was inconsiderable) of the Wife of _Weiller_ Colonel
of the Artillery, who had thrown up his Employments, Wife, Children and
all, to go with a Lady of Quality, that was in love with him, to _Vienna_.
This Gentlewoman pass'd for a modern _Sappho_, and every body talk'd of
her Virtue and good Sense. But being a Slave to the Follies of Love, and
asham'd to let them be seen at _Berlin_, where she was counted an Oracle,
she resolv'd to quit the Place of her Birth, and engag'd her Lover to
leave all and follow her.
The Margrave made considerable Augmentations to this House, and render'd
it very commodious. The Furniture of the Palace also is rich, and worthy
of the Princess who resides in it.
Opposite to the Margravine's Palace is a Building which was formerly
call'd the King's Little Stables, but has been metamorphos'd into Caserns
for the Gendarmery; they discover the Magnificence of _Frederic_ I. who
caused them to be built. The Apartments that run over the Stables are
occupied by the Academy of Painters, and that of Arts and Sciences. Behind
the Stables there's the Observatory, with a great number of Astronomical
and Mathematical Instruments, of which there are many of a new Invention.
_Frederic-Stadt_, which is the fifth Ward of _Berlin_, communicates with
the New Town and the _Werder_. This is one of the pleasantest Wards in the
whole City, the Streets being spacious, strait, and planted with
Lime-Trees[6].
Perhaps I have dwelt too long upon the Metropolis of the Electorate of
_Brandenburgh_; but I thought that as there had been no true Account yet
given of this City, you wou'd not be sorry to have it from me.
The next day after my Arrival here, I had the Honour to see the King, who
was then seeing his Soldiers mount guard. He is a Prince of a middling
Stature, and in very good Plight of Body: His Air commands Respect; yet,
when he pleases, no Prince in the World can be more gracious. I heard him
speak to his Officers in such a kind manner as cou'd not but charm them; I
admir'd his Genius for military Discipline, and perceiv'd that with the
Glance of an Eye he cou'd discover the least Fault committed against that
wonderful Exactness which is introduc'd in the Evolutions of his Troops.
After the Guards had perform'd their Exercise, the King stay'd to see them
file off. I never yet saw Troops march with more Order and State, so that
it seem'd as if they were all mov'd by one Spring. All the Soldiers are
young, of an even Stature, and the cleverest Fellows that Nature ever
form'd: they are well cloth'd, and have such an Air of Neatness, that even
the private Centinels might all pass for Officers. I remember you was
prejudic'd against their Clothing; their Clothes you said were too strait,
and too short. I was of your Opinion once, and think so still, when I
happen to see one of their Officers and Soldiers singly among us, who wear
Night-Gowns rather than Coats; but when I see a whole Body of _Prussians_
together, I am of another Opinion, and think their Dress gives them a
warlike Air which other Troops have not. You will tell me perhaps, that
the Clothing of the _Prussians_ is good in a Garrison, but that in the
Field their Garments are not wide enough to cover the Soldiers in the
Night. I answer, that the _Prussian_ Soldiers are in no danger of not
being cover'd, because when they are in the Field, every Captain is to
carry as many Coverlids, as there are Comrades in his Company. But you'll
say, this must be a very great Incumbrance, and take up a deal of
Equipage. 'Tis true, it may require two Sumpter Horses in a Company, but a
Soldier fares the better for it; because when he goes wet into the Camp,
he can get his Clothes dry'd in the Night while he is under his Coverlid.
After all, the Incumbrance is no greater at present, for those Troops,
than it was at the time when all the _Prussian_ Infantry had Cloaks, which
the Soldiers wore, was the Weather ever so hot, folded over their
Shoulders, and ty'd both before and behind by their Belt. If they had any
hasty March to make, such as I saw they made in _Flanders_ in 1708, when
they went to attack the _French_ near _Audenarde_, the _Prussians_ left
their Cloaks behind with a Guard, and when the Battle was join'd, the
Captains were oblig'd to send for their Cloaks. In short, what makes me
think the _Prussian_ Clothing the most convenient for a Soldier, is, that
most of the _German_ Princes are now come into it, and like it well: The
Troops of _Saxony_, and _Brunswic_ in particular, are cloth'd like those
of _Prussia_.
The _Prussian_ Troops, which are new cloth'd every Year, have Breeches of
Woollen Cloth for the Winter, and of Linnen for the Summer; and they are
allow'd Shirts, Necks and Spatterdashes: Their Pay is good and regular;
the Soldier is compell'd to do his Duty, but when he does it, enjoys more
Liberty than in the Service of any other Nation: so that were I to carry a
Musket, I fancy it wou'd be in the Service of _Prussia_, where such a
strict Discipline is observ'd, that the Soldier is no Swearer, and is not
allow'd to game, and where in a word he does not abandon himself to
Licentiousness. On Sundays and Saints Days they are requir'd to go twice a
day to hear a Sermon: The Catholicks have the liberty of going to Mass. In
short, good Manners are introduc'd and observ'd in those Troops to such a
Nicety, that you would wonder at it.