This kingdom had acquired considerable power even before the outbreak of

the Persian war; after that war, during which Amyntas had been obliged to

submit, affairs were for a time stagnating; Perdiccas at the beginning of

the Peloponnesian war was but a very contemptible enemy of the Athenians.

After the Peloponnesian war, too, Macedonia was so powerless and so much

inferior to Olynthus, that this city was enabled to take from it all

the country about the Thermaic gulf. Amyntas, the father of Philip, was

pressed extremely hard by the Illyrians, and was on the point of giving

up his country altogether: he implored the assistance of the Thebans,

and sent them his son as a hostage. These circumstances render it all

the more wonderful, that Philip raised his kingdom in so extraordinary a

manner: a greater contrast can hardly exist. Terrible as the history of

Philip is to every friend of Greece, it must nevertheless be owned that

he was an extraordinary man. In the very first year of his reign he laid

the foundation of the greatness of a state which was almost annihilated.

Although only twenty-four years old, he ascended the throne with mature

thoughts, and immediately set about carrying them into effect, not

scrupulous as to what means were most desirable, but only thinking how

he could make the best use of those at his command. And he did this

with uncommon surety and adroitness. He was quite aware that he lacked

the means of overcoming the Greek tactic by a higher one, as the Romans

did; he therefore endeavoured to overpower them with greater masses,

and in this he was successful. He did not, however, confine himself to

this course, but, like the Italian and Spanish courts of the sixteenth

century, became powerful by means of cunning, intrigues, faithlessness

and bribery. His plans, though favoured by the circumstances of the

time, would have been checked by great and towering difficulties, if he

had not carried them out by infamous means; he could not have destroyed

Olynthus, to mention one example, had he not deceived the Olynthians and

hired traitors in the place. At Philip’s death, Macedonia was already a

compact empire; its boundaries had been extended into Thrace as far as

Perinthus, and the Greek coast and the Greek towns belonged to it. The

Odrysian princes maintained themselves in the mountains of the interior,

in the neighbourhood of Adrianople. Thessaly had chosen Philip as its

protector, and the towns of eastern Epirus, Ambracia and Amphilochia, had

Macedonian garrisons. Every one knows in what manner Alexander extended

this empire. After his death, a new Macedonian kingdom arose under

the dynasty of Antipater, which, however, no longer embraced Thrace,

for that country then belonged to the dynasty of Lysimachus. We know

nothing about the boundaries of Macedonia and Thrace at that time; it

may have been the Strymon or the Nestus; we have nothing but the scanty

information in Diodorus. Afterwards Lysimachus united the two states,

and Ptolemy Ceraunus appears still to have possessed the greater part

of the empire of Lysimachus in Thrace. Then follows the great invasion

of the Gauls, who made themselves masters of the whole of the northern

parts, until they established themselves in Thrace and Upper Macedonia.

Antigonus Gonatas restored Upper Macedonia and extended it as far as

the river Nestus, and Magnesia also belonged to it, though Thessaly was

only under the protection of Macedonia, just as Napoleon distinguished

between France and Italy.[96] We now have to draw a distinction between

Macedonia proper and Μακεδονία ἐπίκτητος. The latter comprised all the

country east of the river Strymon, that is, Magnesia, Orestis, and

probably also several small tribes in the Thessalian mountains, though

not the peninsulas of Pallene, Sithonia, and Athos, which were again

regarded as parts of Macedonia proper. Philip III. lost Magnesia and

Orestis, which fell into the hands of the Romans; but he recovered the

former, and for a time was in possession of the country of the Dolopians

and Athamanians.[97] This was the extent of Macedonia at the time

when the Romans conquered Perseus. They now separated Magnesia, and

divided the remaining country into four parts. Livy has here translated

Polybius somewhat hastily, but on the whole he has stated the division

rightly; the editions, however, are faulty, on account of the Vienna

MS.; criticism has yet much to do here, for the passage contains several

obscurities. These four districts would not interest us at all, were

it not that they are important in a numismatic point of view; we have

an extraordinary number of tetradrachmae belonging to them, although

the division into four districts did not exist longer than about twenty

years. The Roman governors, even after the abolition of autonomy, in

consequence of the revolt of the Pseudo-Philip, must have continued to

coin money with the same matrices, or else the barbarians, who otherwise

imitated Greek coins in quite a ridiculous manner and with numerous

faults, must in this instance have employed Greek die-cutters for the

purpose of imitation; this may have been the case, for example, with the

Gauls and other nations.

_Macedonia prima_, Μακεδόνων ἡ πρώτη (so on coins, and not Μακεδονία ἡ

πρώτη), is the country on the east of the river Strymon as far as the

Nestus, comprising the towns of the interior on the eastern bank of the

Nestus. The Romans divided the country in such a manner as to make rivers

the boundaries, in order to tear the races to pieces, the same as was

done in modern times, when what are called the natural boundaries began

to be talked of.[98] By this process the Romans produced that state

of dissolution, which was the object of their policy. They further

abolished the _commercia_, that is, no one was allowed to have property

in another district, in order that people of different parts might

become entirely estranged from one another; the ἐπιγαμία, lastly, was

probably likewise prohibited. The result is the strongest refutation of

the doctrine, that rivers form the natural boundaries. Mountains are

the true barriers between nations; think, e.g., of the Alps in Wallis,

which separate Germany from Italy; for, although on one side or the other

there may be a little village of people from the opposite side, still

the inhabitants are distinctly marked by their language, manners, and

mode of dress. Now in Macedonia prima, Greeks, Thracians, Paeonians,

Macedonians, and others, were jumbled together as one nation; the second

division again contained Greeks, many Paeonians, a few Thracians, and

some Macedonians; the third consisted almost wholly of Macedonians and

some Greeks; while the fourth contained many Macedonians, but at the

same time a great number of Gauls and Illyrians. The first division of

Macedonia, as I remarked before, was on the east of the river Strymon,

bounded on the east by the river Nestus, though some parts beyond it also

were included. The second, with its capital of Thessalonica, extended

between the rivers Strymon and Axius, along the entire length of these

rivers. The country west of the Axius was again divided into two parts,

forming the third division, which comprised Lower Macedonia and Pieria

with the capital of Pella; and the fourth comprising Elimiotis, Lyncestis

and the Illyrian and Gallic districts belonging to it. The whole of

the Chalcidian Acte, the coast of which was occupied by Greeks, was

thus included in Macedonia. These are the four parts into which, in all

probability, Macedonia was divided when it was a Roman province, and in

which it continued to enjoy some kind of existence. This we must infer

from the number of coins; those belonging to Macedonia prima are far more

numerous than those of all the Macedonian kings together.

In the Epitome of Strabo, the name Macedonia is used in a very singular

sense, for it is made to include Illyricum. He considers Macedonia as

a parallelogram, of which mount Scardus forms the northern, and the

river Hebrus the eastern side; in the south is the _via Egnatia_, a line

drawn from Epidamnus to Thessalonica. This outline excludes southern

Macedonia, and embraces many countries which do not belong to it. He may

have regarded this as the extent of the Roman province; but it never

had such boundaries. No one can say what his thoughts were; but it is

possible that he made a mistake in copying. We know, on the contrary,

that Thessaly was added to Macedonia as part of the province. When I come

to the survey of the Roman state, I shall speak of the boundaries and the

differences of the provinces at different times, a subject which must not

be overlooked, because on this point great errors still prevail.

The extent which Macedonia acquired under the Antigonids,[99] (that

is, from the time of Antigonus Gonatas and his successors until the

reign of Perseus, a period of about a hundred years), with tolerably

natural boundaries, embraced the countries as far as the ridge of the

high mountains, but Orestis, though situated beyond the chain of these

mountains, also belonged to it. The geography of these countries has as

yet been very little inquired into by Europeans, whence the maps are

still as confused as they were about fifty or sixty years ago. No modern

traveller, as far as I know, has yet visited all the countries on the

side of Skupi (Uskup?) and the high mountains. The notices contained in

the ancients of these countries, cannot be applied with certainty, the

names of the mountains being too indefinite; those countries are quite

beyond the reach of classical literature, and we know mounts Orbelos and

Rhodope scarcely more than by name. These north-western mountains may be

most correctly conceived as a western continuation of mount Haemus, which

is itself a continuation of the Alps. The Alps pass through Carniola

close by the Adriatic, and enter into southern Bosnia; another branch

runs through Styria to the north; on the borders of Hungary its breadth

is not great, and it forms a hilly country until it disappears in the

great plain of Slavonia and Lower Hungary; but in Bosnia the mountains

again extend as far as the Save. All Bosnia and Servia is a mountainous

country, while Slavonia opposite has rich and fertile plains and but

few mountains. In the neighbourhood of Belgrade, the mountains approach

the Danube, extend again, and occupy nearly the whole space between the

Danube and the Adriatic; they then, shutting in the Danube, extend to the

territory of Widdin, retreat into the splendid country of the Bulgarians,

and there leave an extensive and extremely fertile space between the

river and mount Haemus. From Illyricum and Dalmatia the mountains

proceed, so as to form a hilly country in the neighbourhood of Scutari.

Between the Drino and mount Haemus, Scardus is the highest point on the

road from Ragusa to Constantinople. The Macedonian dominion extended

to this point; here dwelt the Dardanians, the north-western people of

Macedonia. The mountains then following are probably Scomios and Orbelos,

which seem to be parts of the mountains proceeding from Haemus. Rhodope,

a mountain between the Strymon and Nestus, is probably a branch of mount

Haemus. Pangaeos seems to be a southern continuation and extremity of

Rhodope.

The whole of the Thracian mountains running parallel with the sea between

the Strymon and Nestus are rich in gold and silver mines. They were taken

possession of at an early time by the neighbouring nations, especially

the Thasians, and it appears that the Phoenicians, at a very remote

period, also had settlements on the southern coast. Afterwards many

Greeks established themselves there, and Thucydides, e.g., is known to

have possessed a mine in those parts. The richest mines were in mount

Pangaeos, but the other mountains as far as Haemus also contain many

precious metals. I know for certain, that Bosnia and the mountains near

Skupi also contain silver mines, which are known but not worked. Should

those countries ever pass from the hands of barbarians, and come under

the dominion of Europeans, it will be seen that the ores of precious

metals extend even much further. The silver mines were worked even before

the Peloponnesian war, under Alexander I., the son of Amyntas; but where

they existed is uncertain. The gold mines of Pangaeos were first worked,

but not vigorously, by the Athenian Callistratus,[100] but afterwards

by Philip with great industry: he is said to have annually derived from

them 1000 talents; they existed in the neighbourhood of Crenidas, where

afterwards the mountain-city of Philippi was built.

In the west, a mountain branches off from Scardus, which we know under

the name of the CANDAUIAN (not CANDAVIAN, according to a passage in

Polybius) mountains; the name is familiar to us from the unfortunate

expedition of P. Sulpicius Galba; it forms the boundary between upper

Macedonia, parts of which are situated in the valleys of the mountain,

and Illyricum. This is a cold mountain, not that the more northern ones

are not still colder, but the latter were thinly, and the former thickly

peopled. According to the accounts of travellers, those mountains must

be very cold and ungenial. But as soon as you come to the part where the

mountains descend towards the sea, and where the rivers empty themselves

into it, the climate becomes all the more splendid, and the valleys more

lovely and mild: the whole country changes into the most beautiful plains

with smiling hills.

Macedonia thus forms the greater part of a circle, of whose periphery

about one-third is cut off by a line from mount Olympus to the river

Nestus.

The AXIUS, οὗ κάλλιστον ὕδωρ ἐπικίδναται αἶαν, is the most important

river of Macedonia, though it flows beyond the real country of Macedonia

in its narrowest sense. In its upper course it is a rapid torrent;

further down it becomes muddy, whence its water is, in point of fact,

not particularly excellent. For this reason, attempts were made even

in antiquity to emend Homer, because it was thought impossible that he

should have made any mistake at all. Connected with the Axius were the

LUDIAS and the HALIACMON, a beautiful river descending from the western

mountains. The STRYMON is altogether a Thracian river, and is called so

by the poets; its banks, at least in later times, are more particularly

the seats of the Thracians, but at an earlier period Paeonians also dwelt

there. The Strymon is a mighty river without any fords, whence it was

crossed only by bridges, as at Amphipolis. The NESTUS has nothing that is

particularly remarkable.

Gulfs to be noticed are:—the Pierian, and the gulf of Therma or

Thessalonica; the Toronaean, the Strymonian, and Singitian gulf.

The hilly districts of Macedonia produce everything that is grown in

those southern countries; they are among the most fertile parts of the

earth, especially in the neighbourhood of Thessalonica and Pella; such

also is the narrow Pierian country, from Olympus as far as the sea: it

is a real garden. At present the chief products there are cotton and

tobacco, which of course did not grow there in ancient times, though

cotton may have been cultivated during the later Macedonian and the Roman

period in some islands of the Aegean.

Having spoken of the Macedonians inhabiting the western country, we

now proceed to MACEDONIA PROPER, also called EMATHIA, with its capital

Aegeae. I have no doubt that you will be convinced, that what I am going

to bring forward as a hypothesis, is not said lightly nor without full

persuasion, or that such a persuasion has been arrived at without much

labour. It is my opinion, that the Thracians did not spread themselves

in those countries until a later period: the Pelasgian race which we

find in Asia as far as Bithynia and the Maeander, undoubtedly once

occupied the whole of the southern coast. To that period we have to

refer much of what is related about the Thracians, as for example, the

tradition about Orpheus, who is conceived to have dwelt in Pieria, on

the slope of Olympus, near the well Pimplea. It is opposed to all our

feelings, and it can have no historical meaning to conceive him as a

Thracian; but the matter becomes intelligible, if we suppose that the

Thracians immigrated into those countries at a later period, and that

the recollections connected with the places which fell into the hands

of the Thracians, were transferred to this people. Mount Olympus was

considered as the seat and centre of the gods, because it was situated,

in a measure, in the midst of the great Pelasgian nation, which we must

conceive to have extended farther northward. It is not likely that the

Greeks should have assigned to their gods a habitation at the extreme

end of their father-land. We must therefore suppose that the Thracians

spread over these countries from the Strymon and Nestus. Now, as in the

west, we find the Macedonians as a Pelasgian people, so we meet in the

central part, about the Axius and Strymon, the Paeonians, whom Herodotus

expressly mentions among the Teucrian Trojans, who were as much a

Pelasgian people as the Siceli. The statement of Herodotus that they were

ἄποικοι τῶν Τευκρῶν, means nothing else than that they and the Teucrians

belonged to the same race. I consider these Paeonians to have been a

remnant of the ancient inhabitants, who maintained themselves against the

invading Thracians. Before the Macedonian kings, the so-called Temenids,

established their kingdom, the Thracians occupied the country down to the

borders of Thessaly, not only as far as the river Strymon, but also the

country on the west of it: the Crestonaean, Crossaean, Mygdonian, and

Pierian countries were in fact all inhabited by Thracians, before the

Macedonians of Aegeae spread over those parts. This gradual conquest of

Mygdonia and Pieria belongs to a period previous to the Persian wars,

certainly that of Pieria, and it is highly probable that the conquest of

Mygdonia also belongs to the same period. Perdiccas was extending his

empire as early as the time of the Peloponnesian war, but it was as yet

ill consolidated. Archelaus did most, he first fortified towns, made

roads, and prepared Macedonia for that career which it completed under

Philip; still, however, after the death of the latter, the state of

Macedonia was powerless. But Archelaus, nevertheless, has the merit of

having laid the foundation.

The name PIERIA is sufficiently familiar to us from the poets. It is odd

enough that the country, which was afterwards inhabited by the barbarous

Thracians, and at a still later period by the Macedonians, who after

all were always an ἄμουσον ἔθνος, should in the remotest ages have been

the seat of the Muses, who are hence called _Pierides_, and from the

wells of the country, _Pimpleides_, _Libethrides_ (_Pimplei dulcis_,

in Horace: Λειβηθρίδες). The BOTTIAEANS, a kindred people, dwelt east

of the Macedonians proper; being expelled by the Macedonians from the

neighbourhood of Pella, originally a Bottiaean place, they went to the

Chalcidians, to whom they were no doubt welcome, as they must have

preferred a kindred people in their neighbourhood to the Thracians. Then

follow the PAEONIANS about the Axius and Strymon, who were pushed away

from the coast into the interior. Herodotus relates that during the

expedition of Darius Hystaspis, the nations dwelling about the Strymon

as far as the sea, were carried away by the Persians, and received

settlements in Phrygia: these are the Paeonians of the lower districts,

and their country was thereupon taken possession of by the Thracians.

Hence it cannot be surprising that afterwards no Paeonians were found

there. MYGDONIA, the lower country, east of the Axius, about the Thermaic

gulf, was, previously to the extension of the Macedonians, inhabited by

Thracian Edonians. The EDONIANS are remarkable on account of the many

allusions to them in the Latin poets, especially in reference to the

worship of Bacchus (_Non sanius ego Bacchabor Edonis_, says Horace). This

worship is, in a certain sense, Thracian, especially in regard to women,

and existed by the side of the Phrygian. Following the narrow tract of

land along the coast, we first arrive in the most southern province,

_Pieria_; next follows _Bottiaeis_, with Pella, as far as the Axius;

then _Mygdonia_ along the coast, beginning with the cape forming the

entrance to the bay of Thessalonica, and extending to the town of Aenea;

the country, from this point to the neighbourhood of Potidaea, is called

_Crossaea_, and had an ancient Thracian population. During the subsequent

extension of the Macedonians, those nations were not expelled, nor did

they become serfs, but were only reduced to the condition of subjects.

All this is correctly indicated in the maps of D’Anville and Barbié du

Bocage; but Anthemus is erroneously marked in all maps, for, instead of a

country, it is put down as a town. It is a district of small extent, but

plays a prominent part in the history of Olynthus.

The capital of Pieria was DION, a native Macedonian town, not Greek,

but adorned with beautiful buildings, prosperous and handsome, until

it was destroyed by the Aetolians on a predatory excursion. PYDNA and

METHONE, both Greek towns, were situated to the north of it. Pydna was

the first conquest of Philip; both towns had until then preserved their

independence, which is a proof of the great weakness of the Macedonian

kings. Philip is said to have destroyed them both; in regard to Methone

this is certain, for during its siege he lost one eye, and for this

reason gave vent to his barbarous rage against the town; but Pydna, if

it was destroyed, must have been restored, for it is mentioned under the

later Macedonian kings; in history it is remarkable especially on account

of the decisive battle fought there, in which Perseus lost his kingdom

and his crown.

The real EMATHIA is in the interior of Macedonia.[101] This lower

Macedonia, in its proper sense, below the slopes of the Candauian

mountains, does not extend to the sea, from which it is separated by

Pieria and a narrow strip of the ancient Bottia. This was ancient

Macedonia proper, the kingdom of the ancestors of Alexander, and

contained the ancient Macedonian capital of AEGEAE,[102] which was the

residence of the kings before the reign of Philip. There is a story about

the name of this town, according to which it is derived from αἶγες: the

founder of the Macedonian kingdom is said to have conquered the town by

following, during a thunder-storm, close behind a herd of goats, and

thus entering the open gates with a small band of followers. The royal

sepulchres existed there as late as the time of Pyrrhus, but the Gauls

in his army plundered them. When at Rome, I heard a very vague report:

an English traveller, it was said, had discovered in 1819 or 1820, by

excavations, the tombs of Macedonian kings; but Aegeae was not mentioned

in the report. The person who told me this, was too ignorant to invent

such a thing; but whether there is any truth in it, I do not know; I have

never heard anything more about it. This place has two names, EDESSA

and Aegeae; the former has been transferred to several other places, and

above all to the very ancient town of Roha in Mesopotamia. It is with

these places as it is with Boston, which in England is an insignificant

town, while the Boston in America is a great city. In like manner, Edessa

in Syria is far more important than Edessa in Macedonia. The names of

many other Greek and Macedonian places, as Beroea, Cyrrhos, Chalcis,

Amphipolis, and others were similarly transferred to places in Syria.

Even names of Macedonian districts re-appear there. This shows a peculiar

attachment to Macedonia, and characterises the sentiments of the founder

of the Syrian empire. If we compare Seleucus with Ptolemy Soter, the

former is far more attached to Macedonia; in Egypt we find nothing of the

kind, everything there beginning anew.

BEROEA (now Veria) is the second place in Emathia; its name-sake in Syria

was far more important, but both still exist. Beroea was a flourishing

place throughout the middle ages, and continued to be a wealthy town

until its present destruction. Edessa is at present only a village.

Whenever the ancient seat of the Macedonian kings is mentioned, when

you read in Thucydides of Perdiccas and Archelaus (the latter is spoken

of also by Plato as a prince who drew to his court the wits and talents

from Athens, just as German princes formerly invited Frenchmen), and

even when Amyntas, Philip’s father, is spoken of, you must always

conceive them as residing at Aegeae. Philip was the first to make

PELLA on the Ludias great; it was previously a small Bottiaean place,

which was conquered by the Macedonians, when they drove the Bottiaeans

into Chalcidice; Herodotus calls it a πολίχνιον. The district lost its

name Bottiaeis, which in Herodotus it still bears, and became part of

Macedonia. Philip, who, like Peter the Great, from the moment of his

accession, set about raising the kingdom from its obscurity, took the

first step towards this object in transferring his residence from the

distant Aegeae to Pella, which was near enough to the sea to carry

on commerce. The rivers in that part of the country, especially the

Ludias, were then navigable, but they are now filled up with sand. Pella,

however, was not so near the sea as to enable the Athenians to take it

by surprise in a maritime expedition. Its situation on a hill surrounded

by waters (τόπος χερσονησοειδής) was very strong. It was now quickly

changed into a considerable city, though we must not conceive it to have

been very large. Had Alexander not become estranged from Macedonia,

it would probably have risen to still greater importance; but it

remained the capital of an empire which was at all events considerable.

Antipater lived there as regent of Macedonia in his barbarous and cynic

simplicity, the picture of an Albanese or Illyrian chief in his affected

wretchedness: he had a disgust for regal splendour, and his government

certainly added nothing to the beauty of Pella. He appeared in public as

a common Macedonian soldier, wrapped up in his cloak (τρίβων), wearing

the καυσία (the Illyrian cap), and a stick. Cassander spent less of his

time at Pella than at Thessalonica and Cassandrea; but the Antigonids

resided there, and from the time of Antigonus Gonatas till that of

Perseus, a period of nearly a century, Pella remained the capital, and

was a splendid town, though not to be compared with the great cities

of Antioch and Alexandria. After the wars of Perseus, the Romans took

it without resistance, and carried off a large number of works of art,

with which Alexander had adorned the city; the masterworks of Lysippus,

which were erected at Pella, were carried away by Aemilius Paullus. Dion

Chrysostomus,[103] in his very excellent Tarsian oration, says that

Pella was a heap of ruins. The destruction must have taken place either

after the war of the Pseudo-Philip (of whom we scarcely know anything,

except a few traits occurring in the newly-discovered ἐκλογαὶ περὶ γνωμῶν

published by Mai), or about sixty years later, during the campaigns of

Archelaus and Taxilas, the generals of Mithridates. It is afterwards

not mentioned again. Pella is one of the places which I have often

suggested to travellers as a place where excavations ought to be made,

and where undoubtedly a rich harvest might be made. Felix Beaujour, the

late consul-general at Salonichi, states in his excellent description

of Macedonia, that the whole district is covered with ruins, a proof

that no excavations have been made there for many years. Certain it is,

that the Romans did not carry away everything, that works of art of the

most exquisite kind, nay perhaps even works of Lysippus himself, might

be discovered there; inscriptions, too, may exist there, although, as I

have already remarked, inscriptions are not found in any other part of

Macedonia.

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