CHAPTER VII

THE TAILORS OF EXETER

IT was in the fifteenth century, at the very time when the towns

seem to have been most energetic in tightening the bonds that held

the crafts fast to their service, that we find the crafts on their

side most impatient of subjection, and eager to test their strength

in a direct conflict with the civic rulers. Their restless energy

broke down all barriers between trade and politics, and forced each

into the service of the other; for by whatever stratagem the crafts

proposed to compel the constituted authorities to recognize them in a

partnership of power—whether a wealthy guild planned the winning of

a charter which should make it a free and independent corporation in

the town; or whether a combination of less powerful trades demanded

to be officially included in the municipal government which regulated

their business, or in any other way to control its action—in any and

every conflict with the ruling oligarchy the guilds were forced to

enlist the sympathy of the burghers and to become leaders of popular

discontent. On the other hand the commons, with no resource against

the official class save an occasional mass meeting, eagerly welcomed

the aid of the disciplined army enrolled in the guild, and under the

politic guidance of expert leaders, to give weight to their claims for

more power. Thus under the stress of the growing passion for political

emancipation, trading interests constantly seem to merge altogether

into the ambitions and animosities of parties wholly occupied in a

conflict about civic rights. No doubt a prevailing suspicion of some

such intimate connection between the desire of the crafts to escape

from municipal control and a democratic movement in city politics, gave

fire to the discussions which from the first origin of the question

disturbed market-place and council-chamber, law-court and Parliament,

and proclaimed the vehemence of feeling with which so great a matter

was debated.

In the Tailors’ Fraternity of Exeter we have a very curious example of

the part which the Guild organization played in municipal politics.

We have already seen the optimistic view taken by the Mayor and

his Fellowship of “the great commonalty of the city,” united and

harmonious, and worthily represented by the patriotic officers into

whose hands an absolute and unquestioned power had been committed; so

that when John Shillingford sends to the Recorder and the Fellowship an

account of his doings in London in the matter of the Dean and Chapter,

he simply begs them first to make such corrections as they saw fit,

and adds, “This done I pray you to call before you at the Hall the

substance of the commonalty praying every one of them in my name and

charging them in the most straightest wise in the King’s behalf to

come before you in haste for the tidings that I have sent home to you;

and that ye wisely declare before them these answers; so that they

say manly yea and nay _in such points as you think to be done_.”[320]

Throughout the whole of the Mayor’s letters there is not the slightest

indication that he had ever heard of any “impetuous clamours” of a

revolutionary Exeter mob, little mindful of the honour of the city; nor

that after a hundred years or more of gathering discontent a crisis was

close at hand when the commonalty was to measure its strength against

the corporation. Nevertheless the union of the moment was but the union

that comes of confronting a common enemy; and the townsmen seemed

to be only waiting till that strife was temporarily hushed to fling

themselves again into the discussion of their own domestic differences.

It is probable that from the time when the people of Exeter began to

elect their own mayor, bailiff, and eight aldermen of the wards, they

were also accustomed to appoint a body of twelve men to aid the mayor

in all difficult business.[321] As at Colchester, Norwich, and many

other towns, the elections were made by a double jury of Twenty-four;

but how the Twenty-four were themselves elected we do not know. In the

fourteenth century they seem already established, like the Twenty-four

of Norwich, as a permanent council to advise and assist the Mayor; but

the Twelve apparently survived alongside of them, for freemen were

forbidden to assemble for the election of a mayor “in the absence of

the Thirty-six”; and the Twenty-four were unable to perform any act

save in the presence of Twelve men.[322] Until the records of Exeter

are published, however, it is impossible to define the relations of the

two bodies; and the manner in which the Twenty-four took possession of

the Council Chamber is unknown.[323]

In Exeter, as elsewhere, trouble broke out in the middle of the

fourteenth century between the two factions of the community—between

the commons, discontented and rebellious; and the governing class,

who appear, not as innovators or usurpers, but as the conservative

guardians of “the ancient orders and customs of the city.” The quarrel

began in 1339 with “impetuous clamours” of the people against the

constant re-election of one or two men as mayors; and for one year

at least they carried their point, perhaps by some breach of former

customs of election, for a decree was immediately issued that the

people were not to gather together on the day of the mayor’s election

“in the absence of the Thirty-six”; perhaps by some help from the

Church and from country patrons, for it was further ordered that no

clerk of the Consistory Court, nor any man who did not live in the

city should be elected mayor or allowed in any way to meddle with the

election. The decree that no burgher might be excluded from the office

who was resident, had been seneschal and had the hundred shillings of

property which was generally required in all boroughs was, if we may

judge from other boroughs, simply a recapitulation of the common custom.

That the quarrel was still agitating the people’s minds some years

later is shown by the ordinances of 1346 and 1347. The first forbade

that a mayor should be immediately re-elected—an order evidently made

to quiet public opinion but which the Twenty-four had no intention

of observing. The second ordinance of 1347 decreed that the election

should be made “by Twenty-four persons who upon their several and

respective oaths shall make the election”—in fact it declared anew the

custom which had been already recognized for fifty years, and probably

from the first institution of the office, though of late years it had

been called in question.

The victory of the governing body was apparently complete,[324] and

it was indeed inevitable that so long as the city had to keep up its

struggle with Earl and Bishop the needs and discipline of war should

strengthen the position of the leaders and tighten their hold on their

fellow-citizens. In 1427 the Twenty-four appear with the name of “the

Common Council,” ordinances are issued in the name of “the Mayor and

the Common Council,” and “in open court the Mayor and Bailiffs by

the assent of the Twenty-four” transact all manner of town business,

whether it concerned the city franchise, the hearing and carrying out

of the King’s orders, or the voting of money for public purposes.[325]

To them also undoubtedly Shillingford wrote his long letters from

London, respectfully addressing them as the “Fellowship” or “his

Fellows,” with whom he was accustomed to take counsel.

The ordinary burgesses of Exeter therefore, so far back as we can

trace its history, played a modest part in city politics, nor had

their attempt to assert themselves in 1339 won for them any advantage

whatever. In 1460 the townsfolk made a new effort of a different and

singularly interesting kind.

There was in Exeter a certain Tailors’ Guild. Its rules, written or

copied in 1460, ordained that every full tailor worth £20 “shall be

of the Master’s Fellowship and Clothing” and pay as his entrance “a

spoon of silver weighing one ounce and the fashion,” besides buying a

livery once a year and giving twelve pence to the yearly feast. Other

shop-holders were entered as of the Fellowship of the Bachelors, each

paying 8_d._ to the feast and his offering.[326] There were special

charges for the “free sewers”; and every servant who took wages

was also brought into the organization and had to pay his sixpence

yearly to the Guild.[327] The master and wardens sat every Thursday

at nine o’clock to do business, and general meetings of the wardens

and shop-holders were held four times a year, where after they had

dined the free sewers were given the remains of the feast. There was

a council of Eight;[328] and the usual rules for protecting the trade

monopoly, for maintaining discipline, and for collecting funds were

made.

So far the Guild was as other Guilds. But rich, powerful, and well

drilled, it cherished ambitions beyond the perfecting of the tailors’

art.[329] In the struggle between York and Lancaster, the sympathies of

official Exeter were apparently Lancastrian, and when Edward the Fourth

came to the throne[330] he probably found it politic or necessary, by a

generous grant to the Tailors’ Company, to make friends of the trading

classes that had been left outside the governing caste. By the charter

of incorporation which he allowed them they were granted singular

privileges, of a kind which the municipal government bitterly resented.

The charter placed the guild in direct dependence on the King, not

on the mayor. They were given a rare liberty—the right “to make

ordinances among themselves, as to them might beseem most necessary and

behovefull for the said fraternity,” and to “make search” and correct

faults, apparently without need of the mayor’s sanction.[331] Not

only so, but they obtained authority to “augment and enlarge” their

Guild as they chose; and did forthwith begin daily to take into their

company “divers crafts other than of themselves, and divers others not

inhabitants within the same city”—men in fact of every conceivable

trade and occupation, free brethren who swore to be true and loving

brothers of the guild, never to go to law with any of the fraternity,

to pay their fines duly during life to the treasure box, and leave a

legacy to it at their death. The usual rule that no man of the craft

could be admitted to the freedom of the city save by the consent of the

master and wardens gained a new political significance when the bulk

of the inhabitants were thus enrolled under the Tailors’ Guild, and

when consequently it was the master of the Tailors who decided what men

should or should not be made free of the borough.

From this moment the Tailors’ Guild was really a great political

association. The Master and Fellowship of the company were scarcely

less powerful than the Mayor and Fellowship of the Corporation. By

their right of search the guild officers could enter by day or night

almost any house in the city or suburbs. By their authority to amend

defaults they were able to leave the city courts deserted and the city

treasury empty of its accustomed fines. The granting of citizenship

was practically in their hands. Their funds and organization

afforded the means for a steady and ordered attack on the governing

oligarchy. Taking into their ranks all crafts and all classes, they

gathered into one body the overtaxed and discontented populace whose

anger at the authorities had grown big with long suppression; while

they also enlisted members that lay beyond the authority of the

corporation—country people as well as church tenants who, as we know,

were already murmuring at the assessing of their taxes, and prepared to

make common cause with the burghers.

Up to this time the authority of the Mayor over the trades of Exeter

had been unquestioned. Merchants, grocers, drapers, mercers, the

tailors themselves had been subject to his rule as in other towns; till

by this alarming conspiracy the Mayor and Fellowship found themselves

confronted with what naturally seemed to them a “great disorderly body”

of revolutionists, who held conventicles and stirred up commotions in

the town, who even overawed the Mayor and threatened to destroy his

authority—men of “such evil disposition and unpeaceable that the Mayor

of the said city may not guide and rule the people ... nor correct such

defaults as ought by him to be correct,” so that “evil example” was

“likely to grow to subversion and destruction of the same city.”[332]

The royal charter obtained by the Guild was looked upon by the

Corporation as a breach of municipal privilege; and the Guild members

were required to renounce it by oath or to lose the city franchise;

while the Mayor made an example of some of the burgesses who belonged

to the fraternity by striking them off the roll of citizens. The shop

windows of the refractory were fastened down, and inhabitants were

forbidden to have garments made by certain tailors whose names were set

down in a black list, “nor with no other of their opinion.” Members of

the craft who were on the city council were refused the Christmas gifts

of wine and canon bread given to the councillors, and if they held to

the craft were indeed excluded from the Chamber.[333] On the other hand

if a luckless inhabitant sought to make his peace with the Corporation

by withdrawing from the Tailors, and swearing upon the Crucifix and the

Holy Evangelists to renounce their charter as contrary to the liberties

of the city, the armed brethren of the Guild visited his house and

levied his contributions by force of arms, that is to say by jacks,

doublets of defence, swords, bucklers, glaives, and stones.[334] Then

the town officers retorted by “presenting” the guilty tailors at the

next court for the crime of riotously collecting fees, and throwing

them into prison; and so the war went on, evidently at the expense of

the weakest members of the community.

Presently however the quarrel was carried beyond the city courts. The

Corporation appealed to Westminster and was once more plunged into

legal expenses. In 1477 both parties appeared by attorneys before

Edward the Fourth, who used the opportunity of the strife to tighten

the hold of the central authority both on the town and on the craft.

He set aside the contention of Exeter that the Corporation had any

exclusive right of granting charters: the Guild had received its

incorporation from the King and this remained valid; and in future all

disputes between city and guild were to be laid before the King and his

Council. But the royal rights being thus secured, the sympathy of the

central government veered round to the side of the town as against the

craft; and the conditions imposed on the Guild if it would preserve

its charter were such as must necessarily break up the organization

in its actual form. The fraternity was cut down again to the limits

of the tailors’ trade, and might enlist no members and make no search

among those of other occupations, nor beyond the city boundaries; and

even within these limits “saving always the franchises of the Mayor

and Commonalty.” It might issue no order against the rights of Bishop

or Mayor: nor might it admit any man to the freedom of the city by

enrolling him in the craft unless he were first presented to the Mayor.

They suffered indeed a yet further humiliation, for while the Mayor was

given the right of refusing to accept a candidate if he were suspected

of not being of good disposition or conversation; yet if the master and

wardens attempted to prevent a man from gaining the freedom of the city

by refusing to testify in his favour and to make him free of the craft,

the Mayor, bailiffs, and common council might insist on his being

accepted by the Guild.[335]

Provisions such as these, involving the dissolution of the actual

fraternity as it then existed, the ruin of its political position,

and the end of its control over the roll of burgesses, proclaimed

the triumph of the municipal authorities; and “the malice and grief

which was conceived thereof could not in long time be satisfied or

appeased.” The Guild indeed apparently refused to accept defeat; for

ordinances were made in 1479 requiring fresh contributions fixed for

seven years from masters, shop-holders, and free sewers “to the finding

of a priest”[336]—contributions which were assessed so high as to

suggest some “feigned colour of sanctity” in the desire to provide for

a chaplain so unwonted an opulence, in addition to his board at the

Mayor’s cost; and which evidently lasted beyond the seven years, since

in 1500 an order was again made that all serving-men, whether working

by the year, by the week, or by the piece, should pay a penny a quarter

to maintain the priest, and at Michaelmas for the wax. The Guild indeed

was still in good repute and able to hold its own. One of the Tailors

was Mayor before 1482;[337] and in 1481 the Company arrogantly defied

the authority of the Corporation. A tailor summoned to choose between

keeping his place as member of the Guild and retaining the freedom of

the city solemnly renounced his oath to the Guild before the Mayor,

whereupon the master and wardens sued him for perjury; so “by the mean

of gentlemen and money” he made peace with them and was again sworn to

the Guild. But absenting himself from the duties it required of him

“without cause reasonable” he was fetched out of his house, brought

to Tailors’ Hall and set in the stocks, and finally compelled to find

sureties for good conduct in the future.[338] The town councillors of

Exeter learned caution from such incidents; and when in this same year

they granted to the Cordwainers a confirmation of their charter, it was

on condition that the master and wardens of the guild should yearly

come before the Mayor and surrender all their powers, after which on

payment of a fine they should receive them back again by grant of the

Mayor.[339] The next year, 1482, when the Bakers desired to have new

ordinances,[340] the Corporation stipulated that all corn must be

ground in the city mills; that the wardens in making search in bakers’

shops or in hucksters’ houses should always be accompanied by a city

officer or serjeant; and that if any guild rules were made which were

against the city liberties, the Mayor and council might change them at

their will.

The rebellious Tailors, however, had fought their last battle. In 1482

a new petition was laid by the city authorities before Edward the

Fourth praying, in spite of the King’s award, for the total abolition

of the Tailors’ charter; and the Twenty-four voted in this and the

following years over £50 for business in Parliament and legal expenses

“touching the annulling of the charter.”[341] From the history of

other towns about this time, it would seem that considerable anxiety

was beginning to grow up at Court as to the commotions of the populace

and the growth of democracy in the boroughs; the petition was granted

as a matter of course, and the Tailors’ Fraternity sank back into the

subject position of an ordinary craft guild. Discontent and murmurings

were still heard in the city streets, but the corporation had no reason

for fear. In 1496 when one John Atwill was about to be chosen for the

fifth time, “a great division happened amongst the citizens about the

election of the mayor, and for avoiding the like for the future, was

ordered by the mayor and common council hereof, that no man should

be mayor or bear any office here, nor any election hold good, unless

the same were held according to the ancient orders and customs of the

said city, and withal that the Mayor and four and twenty of the said

Common Council should elect the Mayor and all other officers of the

said city.” To make matters quite safe the city got a charter the next

year from Henry the Seventh. The new charter did indeed slightly limit

the claims which the Council had freely set forth in 1496: they were no

longer allowed to elect the Mayor, but were to choose two candidates

for the office, one of whom was to be appointed by the freemen; but

on the other hand they still retained absolute power to fill up their

own vacancies, and to choose the bailiffs. Their name too was for the

first time recognized, and instead of using any longer the old style of

the city, “the Mayor, Bailiffs, and Commonalty of the city,” the king

legislated “by the assent and consent of the Common Council.”[342]

The Tailors, thus beaten in open fight, could only fall back on the

indirect influence of their wealth and compact majority, and make

alliance with the power which they could not destroy. In 1516 the

Master of the craft was also Steward of the city, another member was

Receiver or Treasurer, and others were of the Council of Twenty-four;

while others again had been Mayors or Treasurers of past years. By the

will and consent of these officers of City and Guild, the constitution

of the Tailors’ Company was amended, so as to blot out the last trace

of government by the will of the fraternity; and the Eight men, “the

sent of the occupation,” by whose authority laws had once been made

for the trade, were replaced by a council of those who had once been

masters of the craft, to be summoned by the Master.[343] The full

significance of this step can only be understood by taking it in

connexion with the position which was at this time being given to

“the Clothing” in municipal government.[344] But it is plain that the

ancient strife was now closed by a division of the spoils of power; and

the sorrows of defeat were left to the populace at large. These lay

more hopelessly than before at the mercy of their rulers, for masters

of crafts when they controlled town government had a double reason

for maintaining the authority of the corporation—the instinct of the

master tradesman and the instinct of the town councillor.

The story of Exeter is invaluable from the light it throws on the

mutual attitude of town and craft in the struggle for autonomy. Nothing

is more intelligible than the passionate resistance of a corporation

to royal charters given over the heads of the town officers,[345] if

we realize the quick alarms to which a municipality which had had

experience of the long fight for supremacy with king and church and

baron, was liable when it saw a new enemy, an enemy which it had long

supposed vanquished, springing up in its very midst to threaten with

a fresh danger the unity of the borough. It was speedily discovered

how great an internal weakness must follow from this cleavage in

the political society of the towns; and how the very appeals for

arbitration to the State, and the interference of King and Parliament,

must constantly tend yet further to limit municipal independence; while

there were other hints of danger in the new chances offered for the

country gentry to interfere with the independence of the town life,

when they could make the guild, detached from the town, an engine for

their own political projects.[346] Even for the guilds themselves,

there were to be set against the advantages, whatever these amounted

to, which they actually won by emancipation, grave dangers for the

future—dangers from the difficulty of enforcing discipline without

government support; from the hostility of the corporation and the

annoyances it could inflict by rendering honour to their most unruly

members; and from the encouragement given to a more aggressive

animosity on the part of other companies, rivals in independence and

determined foes in monopoly.[347] The emancipation of the greater

trading companies from local control may have been a necessary step in

setting free a growing national commerce; but it was the evident sign

that the age of municipal freedom and local self-government had entered

on its decline.

Usually, however, it seems that the big trading companies had their own

methods of making terms with authority, or of leading the corporation

captive and peacefully installing themselves in the place of power;

as we may see in the case of the great merchant fraternities and

wholesale dealers who, like the Drapers and Mercers of Coventry,

the Drapers of Shrewsbury, and possibly guilds of the same kind at

Walsall,[348] had made of their combinations the dictators of the

civic administration. But commercial unions such as these, standing in

a group by themselves, somewhat apart from the Exeter Tailors, must be

separately considered. The Tailors’ fraternity may perhaps be taken as

holding a sort of intermediate position—on one side figuring almost

as a merchant company, and on the other as an ordinary manufacturing

craft; and it is in this second aspect that its history indicates

to us the very important part which the trades played in rallying

the elements of revolt, drilling their forces, and lending the guild

organization for the strife. No single instance can ever be taken as

in any way typical or representative, for everywhere the position of

the crafts resolves itself into questions of local circumstances, and

of delicate changes from place to place in the balance of conflicting

forces. Whether there was any town under normal conditions in which

successful resistance was made to a governing oligarchy save with

the help of a good craft organization we cannot as yet say. In every

borough there seem to have been disputes, more or less acute, between

the governing and the governed, whether the conflict took the form

of the attack and defence of a close corporation as at Exeter; or of

a powerful guild merchant controlling the corporation as at Lynn;

or of the great mercantile fraternities as at Coventry. And in some

boroughs in which the commons succeeded in modifying the old oligarchic

system, we can certainly trace the direct action of the manufacturing

crafts. Occasionally the working trades rose against the merchant

societies, and forced their way into the Council Chamber. In Carlisle

the Merchant Guild, while remaining distinct from the municipal body,

gave to the town more mayors and aldermen than any other guild; and as

it admitted no strangers to membership of its society “for no money

whatsoever”[349] its posts and honours became practically hereditary,

until eight crafts or occupations of the town (seven of them being

unions of artificers, and the eighth a union of shopkeepers, seedsmen,

apothecaries, haberdashers, and so on) put an end to this despotism

in the sixteenth century by creating a council of thirty-two, four

from each trade, who joined the council of the mayor and aldermen, and

claiming to act in the name of the whole community took part in making

bye-laws; in choosing the “out-men” who were to be made burgesses;

in auditing accounts; in removing the town officers if necessary;

and in keeping the keys of the common chest.[350] That such powers

as these were voluntarily or even quite peaceably handed over by the

ruling guild is conceivable, though its improbability is shewn by

all analogy. In Newcastle it was after “great commotions, unlawful

assemblies, confederacies,” and general riots that the mercers,

drapers, and corn-dealers were forced in 1516 to admit nine other

crafts to share with them the government.[351] In Norwich, where it

was found possible even for guilds proscribed and forbidden to force

an honourable compromise with their opponents, the settlement was

only brought about after discords by which the city was “divided and

dissolved and in point to have been destroyed.”[352] When Edward the

Fourth, in 1464, sent a royal patent to York ordering that for the

future the craftsmen of the trades should nominate two aldermen, one of

whom was to be chosen mayor, the action must imply that there had been

dissension in the city society, out of which the king perhaps hoped to

make his profit[353] by attaching to himself an important faction in

the community. No doubt there were many cases where the trades had to

confess the entire failure of their attempts, or where their success

was but partial, as in London where the crafts would willingly have

increased their influence if popular opinion could have been taken

out of the way.[354] In a great number of boroughs we know that the

crafts insisted that the only way to the municipal franchise should

lie through their societies;[355] but to what extent this condition

prevailed, to what political uses it was put, and how far it served

as a trial of strength between parties in power and revolutionary

factions, are as yet only matters of guess-work.

The scanty state of our knowledge indeed makes it impossible to sum

up in a phrase the character of a strife which was universal, which

involved every class in a most complicated and highly organized

industrial society, and of which the history has not yet been fully

made out for a single borough. But so far as our evidence yet goes, the

developement of municipal government involved everywhere a struggle

between the classes triumphant and the classes put under subjection.

To discuss whether the subject class who attempted to create new

associations or use old ones to fight their battles, were mere common

burgesses contending with a municipal corporation, or bodies of

artificers resisting a guild of merchants, or an indiscriminate mob

opposed to a religious fraternity of the Holy Trinity or the Holy

Cross, is often a mere juggling with words. For as we shall see, it was

possible for one group of men to bear the three names, and in their

character of “magnates” or “potentiores” to act not only as the Town

Council but also as the Guild Merchant; and to shelter both functions

under a specious colour of sanctity. Under such circumstances it is of

no great consequence under which name they fought, nor by what name

they called the mob, whether commonalty or another; since no change

in their nominal relations materially affected the attitude of men

in power towards those outside, or the policy of merchant and master

tradesmen towards the working people. We must always remember, too,

in discussing the social changes that took place in England, that

the absence of violent dramatic effects, the limited and provincial

character of the contests of classes, were but necessary consequences

of the conditions of English life, at a time when industrial and

political disputes were carried on by the local forces of every little

town independently, in a series of particular conflicts fought out with

varying success by groups of combatants trained in small detachments

for separate service. It would be too much to imagine, because we

read of no open war of classes, no burning of towns or insurrections

quenched in blood, that the whole industrial society of mediæval

England moved together in a harmonious and orderly progression, each

new group as it arrived being peacefully lifted to its destined place

in wealth and council, without the jealousy of predecessors, or the

bitter grudge of after-comers. On the contrary all evidence goes to

show that the tenacity of Englishmen in holding to power, and their

stubbornness in insisting on freedom, were as characteristic of the

race in the fifteenth as in the nineteenth century; that antagonism

between the man who asks and the man who pays a wage, were very much

the same as now; and that class interests were if anything far more

powerful. If therefore we suppose the social and political developement

of the later middle-ages in this country was naturally brought about

by the logical sequence of economic developement, we must allow that

stern sequence to include then, as it would include now, the passionate

efforts of a strong people to turn aside by their might the impending

calamities of fate, and to lay a violent grasp on her uncertain

benefactions.

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