[343-*] To increase the bulk and diminis_The Cook's Oracle; and Housekeeper's Manual

the economical housekeeper, who has a large family to feed, may now add

two pounds of potatoes that have been boiled and well mashed. To many

this mixture is more agreeable than pease pudding alone. See also No.

107.

[350-*] Ground barley, or barley-meal, is sold in this city; with which

barley-water gruel or a panada may be readily made, for the sick, or for

soups. A.

MARKETING TABLES,

_Showing the seasons when_ MEAT, POULTRY, _and_ VEGETABLES, _are_ BEST

_and_ CHEAPEST.

MEAT.

+-----------+-----------+------------------------------------------------+

|_Weight |_Weight | |

| of Meat | of Bone | |

| before | after | BEEF. |

| it was | being | |

| dressed._ | dressed._ | THE HIND QUARTER. |

|-----------+-----------+ |

| 13 0 | 1 8 | 1. Sirloin 0 9 | Roasted (No. 19). |

| 20 0 | 4 0 | 2. Rump 0 9 |{Steak to Broil (No. |

| | | |{ 94), to Stew (Nos.|

| | | |{ 500 and 501). |

| 11 0 | 1 4 | 3. Edge-Bone 0 6 | Boiled (No. 8). |

| 13 12 | 1 8 | 4. Buttock, or 0 7 |{Ditto (No. 7), or |

| | | Round |{ Savoury Salted |

| | | |{ Beef (No. 496). |

| | | 5. Mouse ditto 0 6 |{For Alamode Beef |

| | | |{ (No. 502). |

| | | 6. Veiny Piece 0 7 |{Generally Baked or |

| | | |{ Salted. |

| 11 0 | 1 8 | 7. Thick Flank 0 6 | Salted. |

| | | 9. Leg 0 2-1/2|{Soup of (No. 193), |

| | | |{ Stewed (No. 493) |

| | | |

| | | THE FORE QUARTER. |

| | | |

| 14 4 | 1 12 |10. Fore Ribs, 0 9 |{Roasted (No. 20), |

| | | 6 Ribs |{ Boned and Rolled |

| | | |{ (No. 21). |

| | | 3 do. | |

| | | 3 do. | |

| | |13. Shoulder, or}0 6 | For Steaks or Soup. |

| | | Leg of } | |

| | | Mutton Piece} | |

| | | |{For Stewing (No. |

| | |14. Brisket 0 6 |{ 494), or Haricot |

| | | |{ (No. 495),--or |

| | | |{ Salted. |

| | |15. Clod 0 4-1/2|{Principally used for|

| | | |{ Beef Sausages. |

| 8 4 | 0 10 |16. Neck, or } 0 3-1/2|{Ditto, or making |

| | | Sticking } |{ Soup. |

| | | Piece } | |

| | | |{Excellent Scotch |

| 9 0 | 2 4 |17. Shin 0 2-1/2|{ Barley Broth (No. |

| | | |{ 204), and Stewed |

| | | |{ (No. 493). |

| | |18. The Head |{Soup of (No. 239), |

| | | |{ Stewed, (No. 507);|

| | | |{ and |

| | | The Tail |{Do. (No. 240), do. |

| | | |{ (No. 508.) |

| | | The Heels |{Boiled (No. 18*), |

| | | |{ Jelly of (No. |

| | | |{ 198), Soup (No. |

| | | |{ 240*). |

| | | |

| | | MUTTON. |

| | | |

| 8 0 | 0 13 | 1. Leg } |{ Boiled (No. 1), or |

| | | 2. Loin, best} |{ Roasted (No. 24). |

| | | end } 0 8 |{ Do. (No. 1,) |

| | | 3. Do., chump} |{ Roasted (No. 28), |

| | | end } |{ Chops. |

| | | |{ Do. (No. 2.) |

| 6 0 | 0 8 | 4. Neck, best} 0 7 |{ Roasted (No. 29), |

| | | end } |{ Irish Stew (No. |

| | | |{ 488), Haricot (No.|

| | | |{ 489), Stewed (No. |

| | | |{ 490). |

| | | 5. Do., scrag} |{To make Broth (No. |

| | | end } 0 5 |{ 194). |

| 8 4 | 1 0 | 6. Shoulder 0 7 | Roasted (No. 27). |

| | | 7. Breast 0 5 |{Grilled (_Obs._ to |

| | | |{No. 38). |

| | | The Chine, or} | |

| | | the Saddle, } | |

| | | two Loins, } |{Roasted (No. 31), |

| | | The Haunch }0 8 |{ Venisonified (No. |

| | | is a Leg, } |{ 32). |

| | | and part of } | |

| | | the Loin } | |

| | | |

| | | VEAL. |

| | | |

| | | 1. Loin, best} 0 11 | Roasted (No. 35). |

| | | end } | |

| | | 2. Do., chump} 0 11 | Do. do. |

| | | end } | |

| | | |{Roasted (No. 34), to|

| | | 3. Fillet 1 1 |{ make Veal Olives |

| | | |{ (No. 518), Scotch |

| | | |{ Collops (No. |

| | | |{ 517*). |

| | | 4. Knuckle, } 0 7 |{To Ragoût (No. |

| | | Hind } |{ 522), to Stew (No.|

| | | The whole} 0 10-1/2|{ 523), Soup of |

| | | Leg } |{ (No. 193). |

| 9 0 | 1 0 | 5. Neck, best} 0 11 | Roasted (No. 37). |

| | | end } | |

| 5 0 | 0 10 | 6. Do., scrag} 0 8 | Do. do. |

| | | end } | |

| | | The whole} 0 9-1/2| |

| | | Neck } | |

| | | |{Stewed (No. 515); to|

| | | 8. Breast, best}0 11 |{ Ragoût (No. 517), |

| | | end } |{ to Curry (No. |

| | | |{ 497). |

| | | 9. Do., brisket}0 10 |{Stewed (No. 515); to|

| | | end } |{ Ragoût (No. 517). |

| | |10. Knuckle,} 0 7 | Same as Hind |

| | | Fore } | Knuckle. |

| | | The head, |{Boiled, plain (No. |

| | | with the skin |{ 10), to Hash (Nos.|

| | | on |{ 10 and 520). |

| | | Cutlets |{Fried (No. 90), |

| | | |{ Broiled (No. 521).|

------------+-----------+--------------------------+---------------------+

The Nos. refer to the receipts for dressing.

In the foregoing table, we have given the proportions of _bone_ to

_meat_,--the former not being weighed till cooked, by which, of course,

its weight was considerably diminished.

These proportions differ in almost every animal,--and from the different

manner in which they are cut.

Those who pay the highest, do not always pay the _dearest_ price. In

fact, the best meat is the _cheapest_; and those who treat a tradesman

liberally, have a much better chance of being well served, than those

who are for ever bargaining for the market penny. In dividing the

joints, there is always an opportunity of apportioning the bones, fat,

flaps, &c., so as to make up a variation of much more than a penny per

pound in most pieces; and a butcher will be happy to give the turn of

his knife in favour of that customer who cheerfully pays the fair price

of the article he purchases:--have those who are unwilling to do so any

reason to complain?--have they not invited such conduct?

The _quality_ of butcher's meat, varies quite as much as the _price_ of

it, according to its age, how it has been fed, and especially how it has

been treated the week before it has been killed.

The following statements were sent to us by a very respectable

tradesman:--

Beef is _best_ and _cheapest_ from Michaelmas to Midsummer. The price,

per pound, now varies from 4_d._ to 1_s._

Veal is _best_ from March to July. The price varies according to the

season and the supply; and the quality differs so much, that the same

joints now sell from 5_d_. to 11_d._ per pound.

Mutton is _best_ from Christmas to Midsummer; the difference in price

between the worst and the best, is now from 5_d._ to 9_d._ per pound.

Grass lamb is _best_ from Easter to June; house lamb from Christmas to

June.

POULTRY.

+----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+

+----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+

| |{Spring chickens |To be had all the}| |

|Chickens |{ April | year }| November. |

| |{Dearest in April,|To be had all the}| |

|Fowls |{ May, and June | year }| November. |

|Capons |{Largest at |Ditto |{October and |

| | Christmas | |{November. |

|Ducklings |March |---- May | do. |

| | | |{December; |

|Wild ducks |September |Till ditto |{but the flights|

| | | |{are uncertain. |

|Partridges |Do. | | |

+----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+

Cocks' combs, fat livers, eggs, &c. are _dearest_ in April and May, and

_cheapest_ in August.

Fowls' heads may be had three for a penny; a dozen will make a very good

pie or _soup_, like No. 244.

Turkey heads, about a penny each.

Duck giblets, about three half-pence a set; four sets will make a

_tureen of good soup for sixpence_. See No. 244.

_Obs._--Poultry is in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty.

The _price of it_ varies as much as the size and quality of it, and the

supply at market, and the demand for it.

It is generally _dearest_ from March to July, when the town is fullest;

and _cheapest_ about September, when the game season commences, and the

weather being colder, allows of its being brought from more distant

parts, and the town becoming thin, there is less demand for it.

The above information will, we trust, be very acceptable to economical

families, who, from hearing the very high price poultry sometimes costs,

are deterred from ever inquiring about it. In the cheap seasons, we have

noted, it is sometimes as cheap as butcher's meat.

VEGETABLES.

The public are frequently, from want of regular information when the

proper seasons arrive for vegetables, put to much inconvenience in

attending the markets, taking unnecessary inquiries, &c.

The following list, it is presumed, will afford much useful information

to the reader:--

+------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+

+------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+

|Ditto Jerusalem | |From Sept. to June {|Nov. Dec. & |

| (No. 117) | | {|foll. months.|

|Angelica stalks, } | {|Middle of May, and }|June. |

| for preserving } | {| whole of June }| |

|Asparagus (No. 123) |{Begin. of |Mid. of April, May,}|June and |

| |{ Jan. | June, and July }| July. |

|Beans, French, or} |{Early in | End of June, or }|August. |

| Kidneys } |{ Feb. | beginning of July}| |

|Windsor beans, long }| |June |July & Aug. |

| pods and early kinds }| | | |

|Borcole, or Scotch } | |November |Dec. & Jan. |

| Cale, or Kale. } | | | |

|Cardoons | {|Nov. and three |December. |

| | {| following months | |

|Corn salad | |May |---- |

|Chervil (No. 264) | {|March, and through |May. |

| | {| the year | |

|Endive | {|June, and through |Sep. & Oct. |

| | {| the year | |

|Eschalots, for keeping} | {|August, and through |Sep. & two |

|(No. 402) } | {| the year |fol. months. |

|Leeks | {|September, and six |Novem. and |

| | {| months after | December. |

|Onions, for keeping | {|Aug. Sep. and |October and |

| | {| following months | November. |

|Parsley (No. 261) | {|Feb. and through |February & |

| | {| the year | March. |

|Parsnips (No. 128) | {|October, and |July. |

| | {| continue until May| |

|Pease (No. 134) |Beg. or }|June, July, and |August, and |

| | mid. of }| following months | fol. month. |

| | May }| | |

|Potatoes (No. 102, &c.) |March }|May, and through |June, |

| | }| the year |May & June. |

|Radishes |Begin. of }|End of March, and |June. |

| |March }| following months | |

|Ditto, turnip, red and} | |Ditto |June. |

|white } | | | |

|Ditto, black, Spanish | {|August, and |September. |

| | {| following months | |

|Scorzonera | |---- |---- |

|Savoury cabbage | {|September, and |November. |

| | {| following months | |

|Spinage, spring | {|March, April, and |June & July. |

| | {| following months | |

|Ditto, winter | {|Oct. Nov. and |November. |

| | {| following months | |

|Turnips | {|May, June, and |June & July. |

| | {| following months | |

|Ditto, tops (No. 132) | {|March, April, and |April and |

| | {| May | May. |

+------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+

APPENDIX;

COMPRISING

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING

PASTRY, PRESERVES, BREAD, PUDDINGS, PICKLES, &c. &c.

_Puff Paste._--(No. 1.)

To a pound and a quarter of sifted flour rub gently in with the hand

half a pound of fresh butter; mix up with half a pint of spring water;

knead it well, and set it by for a quarter of an hour; then roll it out

thin, lay on it, in small pieces, three quarters of a pound more of

butter, throw on it a little flour, double it up in folds, and roll it

out thin three times, and set it by for an hour in a cold place.

_Paste for Meat or Savoury Pies._--(No. 2.)

Sift two pounds of fine flour to one and a half of good salt butter,

break it into small pieces, and wash it well in cold water; rub gently

together the butter and flour, and mix it up with the yelk of three

eggs, beat together with a spoon; and nearly a pint of spring-water;

roll it out, and double it in folds three times, and it is ready.

_Tart Paste for Family Pies._--(No. 3.)

Rub in with the hand half a pound of butter into one pound and a quarter

of flour, mix it with half a pint of water, and knead it well.

_Sweet, or short and crisped Tart Paste._--(No. 4.)

To one pound and a quarter of fine flour add ten ounces of fresh butter,

the yelks of two eggs beat, and three ounces of sifted loaf sugar; mix

up together with half a pint of new milk, and knead it well. See No. 30.

N.B. This crust is frequently iced.

_Raised Pies._--(No. 5.)

Put two pounds and a half of flour on the pasteboard; and put on the

fire, in a saucepan, three quarters of a pint of water, and half a pound

of good lard; when the water boils, make a hole in the middle of the

flour, pour in the water and lard by degrees, gently mixing the flour

with it with a spoon; and when it is well mixed, then knead it with your

hands till it becomes stiff: dredge a little flour to prevent its

sticking to the board, or you cannot make it look smooth: do not roll it

with the rolling-pin, but roll it with your hands, about the thickness

of a quart pot; cut it into six pieces, leaving a little for the covers;

put one hand in the middle, and keep the other close on the outside till

you have worked it either in an oval or a round shape: have your meat

ready cut, and seasoned with pepper and salt: if pork, cut in small

slices; the griskin is the best for pasties: if you use mutton, cut it

in very neat cutlets, and put them in the pies as you make them; roll

out the covers with the rolling-pin just the size of the pie, wet it

round the edge, put it on the pie, and press it together with your thumb

and finger, and then cut it all round with a pair of scissors quite

even, and pinch them inside and out, and bake them an hour and a half.

_Paste for boiled Puddings._--(No. 6.)

Pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef suet, add to it one pound

and a quarter of flour, and a little salt: mix it with half a pint of

milk or water, and beat it well with the rolling-pin, to incorporate the

suet with the flour.

_Paste for stringing Tartlets, &c._--(No. 7.)

Mix with your hands a quarter of a pound of flour, an ounce of fresh

butter, and a little cold water; rub it well between the board and your

hand till it begins to string; cut it into small pieces, roll it out,

and draw it into fine strings, lay them across your tartlets in any

device you please, and bake them immediately.

_Paste for Croquants or Cut Pastry._--(No. 8.)

To half a pound of fine flour put a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf

sugar; mix it well together with yelks of eggs till of a good

stiffness.

_Venison Pasty._--(No. 9.)

Take a neck, shoulder, or breast of venison, that has not hung too long;

bone them, trim off all the skin, and cut it into pieces two inches

square, and put them into a stew-pan, with three gills of Port wine, two

onions, or a few eschalots sliced; some pepper, salt, three blades of

mace, about a dozen allspice, and enough veal broth to cover it; put it

over a slow fire, and let it stew till three parts done; put the

trimmings into another saucepan, cover it with water, and set it on a

fire. Take out the pieces you intend for the pasty, and put them into a

deep dish with a little of their liquor, and set it by to cool; then add

the remainder of the liquor to the bones and trimmings, and boil it till

the pasty is ready; then cover the pasty with paste made like No. 5;

ornament the top, and bake it for two hours in a slow oven; and before

it is sent to table, pour in a sauce made with the gravy the venison was

stewed in, strained and skimmed free from fat; some pepper, salt, half a

gill of Port, the juice of half a lemon, and a little flour and butter

to thicken it.

_Mutton or Veal Pie._--(No. 10.)

Cut into chops, and trim neatly, and cut away the greatest part of the

fat of a loin, or best end of a neck of mutton (the former the best),

season them, and lay them in a pie dish, with a little water and half a

gill of mushroom catchup (chopped onion and potatoes, if approved);

cover it with paste (No. 2), bake it two hours; when done, lift up the

crust from the dish with a knife, pour out all the gravy, let it stand,

and skim it clean; add, if wanted, some more seasoning; make it boil,

and pour it into the pie.

Veal pie may be made of the brisket part of the breast; but must be

parboiled first.

_Hare Pie._--(No. 11.)

Take the hare skinned and washed, cut it into pieces, and parboil it for

two minutes to cleanse it; wash it well, and put it in a stew-pot with

six eschalots chopped, a gill of Port wine, a small quantity of thyme,

savoury, sweet marjoram, and parsley, tied in a bunch, four cloves, and

half a dozen allspice; cover it with veal broth, and stew it till half

done; pick out the prime pieces, such as the back, legs, &c. (leaving

the remainder to stew till the goodness is quite extracted); take the

parts preserved, and fill them into a dish with some water, and cover it

with paste as No. 2; bake it an hour; strain the gravy from the

trimmings, thicken it a little, and throw in half a gill of Port, the

juice of half a lemon, and pour it into the pie boiling hot; line the

bottom of the dish with Hare stuffing (No. 379), or make it into

forcemeat balls.

Pies of game and wild fowl are made in like manner; and as the following

receipt for Pigeon pie.

_Savoury Pies, Pasties, and Patties._--(No. 12.)

The _piquance_ of pies may be regulated _ad libitum_, by sprinkling the

articles with zest (No. 255), curry powder (No. 455, and see Nos. 457

and 459), or by covering the bottom of the dish with any of the

forcemeats enumerated in Nos. 373 to 385, and making it into balls; lay

one ring of these, and another of hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, round

the top of the pie; and instead of putting in water, put strong gravy.

After the pies are baked, pour in through a funnel any of the various

gravies, sauces, &c.: truffles, mushrooms, wine, spices, pickles, &c.

are also added. See also Nos. 396 to 402.

MEM. These are dishes contrived rather to excite appetite than to

satisfy it. Putting meat or poultry into a pie is certainly the very

worst way of cooking it; it is often baked to rags; and very rarely

indeed does a savoury pie come to table that deserves to be introduced

to the stomach.

_Pigeon or Lark Pie._--(No. 13.)

Truss half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stewing, season them with

pepper and salt; lay at the bottom of the dish a rump-steak of about a

pound weight, cut into pieces and trimmed neatly, seasoned, and beat out

with a chopper: on it lay the pigeons, the yelks of three eggs boiled

hard, and a gill of broth or water, and over these a layer of steaks;

wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over with puff paste (No. 1), or

the paste as directed for seasoned pies (No. 2); wash it over with yelk

of egg, and ornament it with leaves of paste and the feet of the

pigeons; bake it an hour and a half in a moderate-heated oven: before it

is sent to table make an aperture in the top, and pour in some good

gravy quite hot.

_Giblet Pie._--(No. 14.)

Clean well, and half stew two or three sets of goose giblets: cut the

legs in two, the wing and neck into three, and the gizzard into four

pieces; preserve the liquor, and set the giblets by till cold,

otherwise the heat of the giblets will spoil the paste you cover the pie

with: then season the whole with black pepper and salt, and put them

into a deep dish; cover it with paste as directed in No. 2, rub it over

with yelk of egg, ornament and bake it an hour and a half in a moderate

oven: in the meantime take the liquor the giblets were stewed in, skim

it free from fat, put it over a fire in a clean stew-pan, thicken it a

little with flour and butter, or flour and water, season it with pepper

and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; add a few drops of browning,

strain it through a fine sieve, and when you take the pie from the oven,

pour some of this into it through a funnel. Some lay in the bottom of

the dish a moderately thick rump-steak: if you have any cold game or

poultry, cut it in pieces, and add it to the above.

_Rump-Steak Pie._--(No. 15.)

Cut three pounds of rump-steak (that has been kept till tender) into

pieces half as big as your hand, trim off all the skin, sinews, and

every part which has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, and beat

them with a chopper: chop very fine half a dozen eschalots, and add them

to half an ounce of pepper and salt mixed; strew some of the mixture at

the bottom of the dish, then a layer of steak, then some more of the

mixture, and so on till the dish is full; add half a gill of mushroom

catchup, and the same quantity of gravy, or red wine; cover it as in the

preceding receipt, and bake it two hours.

N.B. Large oysters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alternately with the

steaks, their liquor reduced and substituted instead of the catchup and

wine, will be a variety.

_Chicken Pie._--(No. 16.)

Parboil, and then cut up neatly two young chickens; dry them; set them

over a slow fire for a few minutes; have ready some veal stuffing or

forcemeat (No. 374 or No. 375), lay it at the bottom of the dish, and

place in the chickens upon it, and with it some pieces of dressed ham;

cover it with paste (No. 1). Bake it from an hour and a half to two

hours; when sent to table, add some good gravy, well seasoned, and not

too thick.

Duck pie is made in like manner, only substituting the duck stuffing

(No. 378), instead of the veal.

N.B. The above may be put into a raised French crust (see No. 18) and

baked; when done, take off the top, and put a ragoût of sweetbread to

the chickens.

_Rabbit Pie._--(No. 17.)

Made in the same way; but make a forcemeat to cover the bottom of the

dish, by pounding a quarter of a pound of boiled bacon with the livers

of the rabbits; some pepper and salt, some pounded mace, some chopped

parsley, and an eschalot, thoroughly beaten together; and you may lay

some thin slices of ready-dressed ham or bacon on the top of your

rabbits. "This pie will ask two hours baking," says Mrs. Mary

Tillinghast, in page 29 of her 12mo. vol. of rare receipts, 1678.

_Raised French Pie._--(No. 18.)

Make about two pounds of flour into a paste, as directed (No. 5); knead

it well, and into the shape of a ball; press your thumb into the centre,

and work it by degrees into any shape (oval or round is the most

general), till about five inches high; put it on a sheet of paper, and

fill it with coarse flour or bran; roll out a covering for it about the

same thickness as the sides; cement its sides with the yelk of egg; cut

the edges quite even, and pinch it round with the finger and thumb, yelk

of egg it over with a paste-brush, and ornament it in any way fancy may

direct, with the same kind of paste. Bake it of a fine brown colour, in

a slow oven; and when done, cut out the top, remove the flour or bran,

brush it quite clean, and fill it up with a fricassee of chicken,

rabbit, or any other _entrée_ most convenient. Send it to table with a

napkin under.

_Raised Ham Pie._--(No. 19.)

Soak a small ham four or five hours; wash and scrape it well; cut off

the knuckle, and boil it for half an hour; then take it up and trim it

very neatly; take off the rind and put it into an oval stew-pan, with a

pint of Madeira or sherry, and enough veal stock to cover it. Let it

stew for two hours, or till three parts done; take it out and set it in

a cold place; then raise a crust as in the foregoing receipt, large

enough to receive it; put in the ham, and round it the veal forcemeat;

cover and ornament; it will take about an hour and a half to bake in a

slow oven: when done, take off the cover, glaze the top, and pour round

the following sauce, viz. take the liquor the ham was stewed in; skim it

free from fat; thicken with a little flour and butter mixed together; a

few drops of browning, and some Cayenne pepper.

P.S. The above is, I think, a good way of dressing a small ham, and has

a good effect cold for a supper.

_Veal and Ham Pie._--(No. 20.)

Take two pounds of veal cutlet, cut them in middling-sized pieces,

season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of raw or

dressed ham cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put some

forced or sausage meat (No. 374, or No. 375) at the top, with some

stewed button mushrooms, and the yelks of three eggs boiled hard, and a

gill of water; then proceed as with rump-steak pie.

N.B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut into chops,

and the chine bone taken away.

_Raised Pork Pie._--(No. 21.)

Make a raised crust, of a good size, with paste (as directed in No. 5),

about four inches high; take the rind and chine bone from a loin of

pork, cut it into chops, beat them with a chopper, season them with

pepper and salt, and fill your pie; put on the top and close it, and

pinch it round the edge; rub it over with yelk of egg, and bake it two

hours with a paper over it, to prevent the crust from burning. When

done, pour in some good gravy, with a little ready-mixed mustard (if

approved).

N.B. As the above is generally eaten cold, it is an excellent repast for

a journey, and will keep for several days.

_Eel Pie._--(No. 22.)

Take eels about half a pound each; skin, wash, and trim off the fin with

a pair of scissors, cut them into pieces three inches long, season them

with pepper and salt, and fill your dish, leaving out the heads and

tails. Add a gill of water or veal broth, cover it with paste (No. 2),

rub it over with a paste-brush dipped in yelk of egg, ornament it with

some of the same paste, bake it an hour; and when done, make a hole in

the centre, and pour in the following sauce through a funnel: the

trimmings boiled in half a pint of veal stock, seasoned with pepper and

salt, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and thickened with flour and

water, strained through a fine sieve: add it boiling hot.

_Raised Lamb Pies._--(No. 23.)

Bone a loin of lamb, cut into cutlets, trim them very nicely, and lay

them in the bottom of a stew or frying-pan, with an ounce of butter, a

tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and some pepper and salt: put them over a

fire, and turn them and put them to cool; then raise four or five small

pies with paste (as No. 6), about the size of a tea-cup; put some veal

forcemeat at the bottom, and the cutlets upon it; roll out the top an

eighth of an inch thick, close and pinch the edges, bake them half an

hour, and when done take off the top, and pour in some good brown sauce.

_Beef-Steak Pudding._--(No. 24.)

Get rump-steaks, not too thick, beat them with a chopper, cut them into

pieces about half the size of your hand, and trim off all the skin,

sinews, &c.; have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine, likewise some

potatoes peeled and cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick; rub the

inside of a basin or an oval plain mould with butter, sheet it with

paste as directed for boiled puddings (No. 7); season the steaks with

pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, then

another of potatoes, and so on till it is full, occasionally throwing in

part of the chopped onion; add to it half a gill of mushroom catchup, a

table-spoonful of lemon-pickle, and half a gill of water or veal broth;

roll out a top, and close it well to prevent the water getting in; rinse

a clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle a little flour over it, and tie up

the pudding; have ready a large pot of water boiling, put it in, and

boil it two hours and a half; take it up, remove the cloth, turn it

downwards in a deep dish, and when wanted take away the basin or mould.

_Vol au Vent._--(No. 25.)

Roll off tart paste (No. 3) till about the eighth of an inch thick:

then, with a tin cutter made for that purpose (about the size of the

bottom of the dish you intend sending to table), cut out the shape, and

lay it on a baking-plate, with paper; rub it over with yelk of egg; roll

out good puff paste (No. 1) an inch thick, stamp it with the same

cutter, and lay it on the tart paste; then take a cutter two sizes

smaller, and press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; rub

the top with yelk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty

minutes, of a light brown colour: when done, take out the paste inside

the centre mark, preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place,

and when wanted, fill it with a white fricassee of chicken, rabbit,

ragoût of sweetbread, or any other _entrée_ you wish.

_Oyster Patties._--(No. 26.)

Roll out puff paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into squares with

a knife, sheet eight or ten patty pans, put upon each a bit of bread the

size of half a walnut; roll out another layer of paste of the same

thickness, cut it as above, wet the edge of the bottom paste, and put on

the top, pare them round to the pan, and notch them about a dozen times

with the back of the knife, rub them lightly with yelk of egg, bake them

in a hot oven about a quarter of an hour: when done, take a thin slice

off the top, then, with a small knife or spoon, take out the bread and

the inside paste, leaving the outside quite entire; then parboil two

dozen of large oysters, strain them from their liquor, wash, beard, and

cut them into four, put them into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter

rolled in flour, half a gill of good cream, a little grated lemon-peel,

the oyster liquor, free from sediment, reduced by boiling to one half,

some Cayenne pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice; stir it

over a fire five minutes, and fill the patties.

_Lobster Patties._--(No. 27.)

Prepare the patties as in the last receipt. Take a hen lobster already

boiled; pick the meat from the tail and claws, and chop it fine; put it

into a stew-pan, with a little of the inside spawn pounded in a mortar

till quite smooth, an ounce of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, and

half a gill of veal consommé, Cayenne pepper, and salt, a tea-spoonful

of essence of anchovy, the same of lemon-juice, and a table-spoonful of

flour and water: stew it five minutes.

_Veal and Ham Patties._--(No. 28.)

Chop about six ounces of ready-dressed lean veal, and three ounces of

ham very small; put it into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter rolled

into flour, half a gill of cream; half a gill of veal stock; a little

grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, some Cayenne pepper and salt, a spoonful

of essence of ham and lemon-juice, and stir it over the fire some time,

taking care it does not burn.

_Chicken and Ham Patties._--(No. 29.)

Use the white meat from the breast of chickens or fowls, and proceed as

in the last receipt.

_Ripe Fruit Tarts._--(No. 30.)

Gooseberries, damsons, morrello cherries, currants mixed with

raspberries, plums, green gages, white plums, &c. should be quite fresh

picked, and washed: lay them in the dish with the centre highest, and

about a quarter of a pound of moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart of

fruit (but if quite ripe they will not require so much); add a little

water; rub the edges of the dish with yelk of egg; cover it with tart

paste (No. 4), about half an inch thick; press your thumb round the rim,

and close it well; pare it round with a knife; make a hole in the sides

below the rim; bake it in a moderate-heated oven; and ten minutes before

it is done, take it out and ice it, and return it to the oven to dry.

_Icing for Fruit Tarts, Puffs, or Pastry._--(No. 31.)

Beat up in a half-pint mug the white of two eggs to a solid froth; lay

some on the middle of the pie with a paste-brush; sift over plenty of

pounded sugar, and press it down with the hand; wash out the brush, and

splash by degrees with water till the sugar is dissolved, and put it in

the oven for ten minutes, and serve it up cold.

_Apple Pie._--(No. 32.)

Take eight russetings, or lemon pippin apples; pare, core, and cut not

smaller than quarters; place them as close as possible together into a

pie-dish, with four cloves; rub together in a mortar some lemon-peel,

with four ounces of good moist sugar, and, if agreeable, add some quince

jam; cover it with puff paste; bake it an hour and a quarter. (Generally

eaten warm.)

_Apple Tart creamed._--(No. 33.)

Use green codlings, in preference to any other apple, and proceed as in

the last receipt. When the pie is done, cut out the whole of the centre,

leaving the edges; when cold, pour on the apple some rich boiled

custard, and place round it some small leaves of puff paste of a light

colour.

_Tartlets, such as are made at the Pastry Cooks._--(No. 34.)

Roll out puff paste (No. 1,) of a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into

pieces, and sheet pans about the size of a crown piece, pare them round

with a knife, and put a small quantity of apricot, damson, raspberry,

strawberry, apple, marmalade, or any other kind of jam (No. 92), in the

centre; take paste (No. 7), and string them crossways; bake them from

six to ten minutes in a quick oven: they should be of a very light brown

colour.

_French Tart of preserved Fruit._--(No. 35.)

Cover a flat dish, or tourte pan, with tart paste (No. 4), about an

eighth of an inch thick; roll out puff paste (No. 1), half an inch

thick, and cut it out in strips an inch wide; wet the tart paste, and

lay it neatly round the pan by way of a rim; fill the centre with jam or

marmalade of any kind, ornament it with small leaves of puff paste, bake

it half an hour, and send it to table cold.

N.B. The above may be filled before the puff paste is laid on, neatly

strung with paste, as No. 7, and the rim put over after.

_Obs._--The most general way of sending tourtes to table, is with a

croquante of paste (No. 86), or a caramel of spun sugar (No. 85), put

over after it is baked.

_Small Puffs of preserved Fruit._--(No. 36.)

Roll out, a quarter of an inch thick, good puff paste (No. 1), and cut

it into pieces four inches square; lay a small quantity of any kind of

jam on each, double them over, and cut them into square, triangle, or,

with a tin cutter, half moons; lay them with paper on a baking-plate;

ice them (as at No. 31), bake them about twenty minutes, taking care not

to colour the icing.

_Cranberry Tart._--(No. 37.)

Take Swedish, American, or Russian cranberries, pick and wash them in

several waters, put them into a dish, with the juice of half a lemon, a

quarter of a pound of moist or pounded loaf sugar, to a quart of

cranberries. Cover it with puff (No. 1) or tart paste (No. 4), and bake

it three quarters of an hour; if tart paste is used, draw it from the

oven five minutes before it is done, and ice it as No. 31, return it to

the oven, and send it to table cold.

_Mince Pies._--(No. 38.)

Sheet with tart paste (No. 4), half a dozen of tin pans of any size you

please; fill them with mince meat (No. 39), and cover with puff paste, a

quarter of an inch thick; trim round the edges with a knife, make an

aperture at the top with a fork, bake them in a moderate-heated oven,

and send them to table hot, first removing the tin.

N.B. Some throw a little sifted loaf sugar over.

_Mince Meat._--(No. 39.)

Two pounds of beef suet, picked and chopped fine; two pounds of apple,

pared, cored, and minced; three pounds of currants, washed and picked;

one pound of raisins, stoned and chopped fine; one pound of good moist

sugar; half a pound of citron, cut into thin slices; one pound of

candied lemon and orange-peel, cut as ditto; two pounds of ready-dressed

roast beef, free from skin and gristle, and chopped fine; two nutmegs,

grated; one ounce of salt, one of ground ginger, half an ounce of

coriander seeds, half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of cloves, all

ground fine; the juice of six lemons, and their rinds grated; half a

pint of brandy, and a pint of sweet wine. Mix the suet, apples,

currants, meat-plums, and sweetmeats, well together in a large pan, and

strew in the spice by degrees; mix the sugar, lemon-juice, wine, and

brandy, and pour it to the other ingredients, and stir it well together;

set it by in close-covered pans in a cold place: when wanted, stir it up

from the bottom, and add half a glass of brandy to the quantity you

require.

N.B. The same weight of tripe is frequently substituted for the meat,

and sometimes the yelks of eggs boiled hard.

_Obs._--The lean side of a buttock, thoroughly roasted, is generally

chosen for mince meat.

_Cheesecakes._--(No. 40.)

Put two quarts of new milk into a stew-pan, set it near the fire, and

stir in two table-spoonfuls of rennet: let it stand till it is set (this

will take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let it

remain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curd

into a colander to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound

it quite smooth; then add four ounces of sugar, pounded and sifted, and

three ounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a little

potting-pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together:

beat the yelks of four eggs in a basin, with a little nutmeg grated,

lemon-peel, and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ounces

of currants, washed and picked; stir it all well together; have your

tins ready lined with puff paste (No. 1), about a quarter of an inch

thick, notch them all round the edge, and fill each with the curd. Bake

them twenty minutes.

When you have company, and want a variety, you can make a mould of curd

and cream, by putting the curd in a mould full of holes, instead of the

colander: let it stand for six hours, then turn it out very carefully on

a dish, and pour over it half a pint of good cream sweetened with loaf

sugar, and a little nutmeg. What there is left, if set in a cool place,

will make excellent cheesecakes the next day.

_Lemon Cheesecakes._--(No. 41.)

Grate the rind of three, and take the juice of two lemons, and mix them

with three sponge biscuits, six ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of

sifted sugar, a little grated nutmeg and pounded cinnamon, half a gill

of cream, and three eggs well beaten; work them with the hand, and fill

the pans, which must be sheeted as in the last receipt with puff paste,

and lay two or three slices of candied lemon-peel, cut thin, upon the

top.

_Orange Cheesecakes._--(No. 42.)

To be made in the same way, omitting the lemons, and using oranges

instead.

_Almond Cheesecakes._--(No. 43.)

Blanch six ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds; let

them lie half an hour in a drying stove, or before the fire; pound them

very fine in a mortar, with two table-spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower

water, to prevent them from oiling; set into a stew-pan half a pound of

fresh butter; set it in a warm place, and cream it very smooth with the

hand, and add it to the almonds, with six ounces of sifted loaf sugar, a

little grated lemon-peel, some good cream, and four eggs; rub all well

together with the pestle; cover a patty-pan with puff paste; fill in the

mixture; ornament it with slices of candied lemon-peel and almonds

split, and bake it half an hour in a brisk oven.

_Mille Feuilles, or a Pyramid of Paste._--(No. 44.)

Roll out puff paste (No. 1,) half an inch thick; cut out with a cutter

made for the purpose, in the shape of an oval, octagon, square, diamond,

or any other form, (and to be got of most tinmen,) observing to let the

first piece be as large as the bottom of the dish you intend sending it

to table on: the second piece a size smaller, and so on in proportion,

till the last is about the size of a shilling; lay them with paper on a

baking-plate, yelk of egg the top, and bake them of a light brown

colour: take them from the paper, and when cold put the largest size in

the dish, then a layer of apricot jam; then the next size, a layer of

raspberry jam, and so on, varying the jam between each layer of paste to

the top, on which place a bunch of dried fruit, and spin a caramel (No.

85) of sugar over it.

_Brunswick Tourte._--(No. 45.)

Make a crust as for vol au vent (No. 25); pare and core with a scoop

eight or ten golden pippins; put them into a stew-pan, with a gill of

sweet wine, and four ounces of sifted loaf sugar, a bit of lemon-peel, a

small stick of cinnamon, and a blade of mace; stew them over a slow fire

till the apples are tender; set them by: when cold, place them in the

paste, and pour round them some good custard (No. 53).

_Blancmange._--(No. 46.)

Boil for a few minutes a pint and a half of new milk, with an ounce of

picked isinglass (if in summer, one ounce and a quarter), the rind of

half a lemon, peeled very thin, a little cinnamon, and a blade of mace,

and two and a half ounces of lump sugar: blanch and pound eight or ten

bitter, and half an ounce of sweet almonds very fine, with a spoonful of

rose water, and mix them with the milk; strain it through a lawn sieve

or napkin into a basin, with half a pint of good cream. Let it stand

half an hour; pour it into another basin, leaving the sediment at the

bottom, and when nearly cold fill it into moulds: when wanted, put your

finger round the mould; pull out the blancmange; set it in the centre of

a dish, and garnish with slices of orange.

N.B. About half a gill of noyeau may be substituted for the almonds.

_Orange Jelly._--(No. 47.)

Boil in a pint of water one ounce and a quarter of picked isinglass, the

rind of an orange cut thin, a stick of cinnamon, a few corianders, and

three ounces of loaf-sugar, till the isinglass is dissolved; then

squeeze two Seville oranges or lemons, and enough China oranges to make

a pint of juice: mix all together, and strain it through a tamis or lawn

sieve into a basin; set it in a cold place for half an hour; pour it

into another basin free from sediment; and when it begins to congeal,

fill your mould: when wanted, dip the mould into lukewarm water; turn it

out on a dish, and garnish with orange or lemon cut in slices, and

placed round.

N.B. A few grains of saffron put in the water will add much to its

appearance.

_Italian Cream._--(No. 48.)

Rub on a lump of sugar the rind of a lemon, and scrape it off with a

knife into a deep dish or china bowl, and add half a gill of brandy, two

ounces and a half of sifted sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint of

double cream, and beat it up well with a clean whisk; in the meantime,

boil an ounce of isinglass in a gill of water till quite dissolved;

strain it to the other ingredients; beat it some time, and fill your

mould; and when cold and set well, dish it as in the foregoing receipt.

N.B. The above may be flavoured with any kind of liqueur, raspberry,

strawberry, or other fruits, coloured with prepared cochineal, and named

to correspond with the flavour given.

_Trifle._--(No. 49.)

Mix in a large bowl a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, the juice of a

lemon, some of the peel grated fine, half a gill of brandy, and ditto of

Lisbon or sweet wine, and a pint and a half of good cream; whisk the

whole well, and take off the froth as it rises with a skimmer, and put

it on a sieve; continue to whisk it till you have enough of the whip;

set it in a cold place to drain three or four hours; then lay in a deep

dish six or eight sponge biscuits, a quarter of a pound of ratafia, two

ounces of Jordan almonds blanched and split, some grated nutmeg and

lemon-peel, currant jelly and raspberry jam, half a pint of sweet wine,

and a little brandy; when the cakes have absorbed the liquor, pour over

about a pint of custard, made rather thicker than for apple pie; and,

when wanted, lay on lightly plenty of the whip, and throw over a few

nonpareil comfits.

_Whip Syllabub._--(No. 50.)

Make a whip as in the last receipt; mix with a pint of cream, half a

pint of sweet wine, a glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon, grated

nutmeg, six ounces of sifted loaf sugar: nearly fill the custard-glasses

with the mixture, and lay on with a spoon some of the whip.

_Chantilly Basket._--(No. 51.)

Dip into sugar boiled to a caramel (See No. 85) small ratafias, stick

them on a dish in what form you please, then take ratafias one size

larger, and having dipped them into the sugar, build them together till

about four or five inches high; make a rim of York drops or drageas of

gum paste, likewise a handful of sugar or ratafia, and set it over the

basket; line the inside with wafer-paper, and a short time before it is

wanted, fill it with a mixture the same as for trifle, and upon that

plenty of good whip.

_Baked Custard._--(No. 52.)

Boil in a pint of milk, a few coriander seeds, a little cinnamon and

lemon-peel; sweeten with four ounces of loaf sugar, and mix with it a

pint of cold milk; beat well eight eggs for ten minutes, and add the

other ingredients; pour it from one pan into another six or eight times,

strain it through a sieve, and let it stand some time; skim off the

froth from the top, fill it in earthen cups, and bake them immediately

in a hot oven, give them a good colour; about ten minutes will do them.

_Boiled Custard._--(No. 53.)

Boil in a pint of milk, five minutes, lemon-peel, corianders, and

cinnamon, a small quantity of each, half a dozen of bitter almonds,

blanched and pounded, and four ounces of loaf sugar: mix it with a pint

of cream, the yelks of ten eggs, and the whites of six, well beaten;

pass it through a hair-sieve, stir it with a whisk over a slow fire till

it begins to thicken, remove it from the fire, and continue to stir it

till nearly cold; add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, fill the cups or

glasses, and grate nutmeg over.

_Almond Custards._--(No. 54.)

Blanch and pound fine, with half a gill of rose water, six ounces of

sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds; boil a pint of milk as No.

52; sweeten it with two ounces and a half of sugar; rub the almonds

through a fine sieve, with a pint of cream; strain the milk to the yelks

of eight eggs, and the whites of three well-beaten; stir it over a fire

till it is of a good thickness; take it off the fire, and stir it till

nearly cold, to prevent its curdling.

N.B. The above may be baked in cups, or in a dish, with a rim of puff

paste put round.

_Twelfth Cake._--(No. 55.)

Two pounds of sifted flour, two pounds of sifted loaf sugar, two pounds

of butter, eighteen eggs, four pounds of currants, one half pound of

almonds blanched and chopped, one half pound of citron, one pound of

candied orange and lemon-peel cut into thin slices, a large nutmeg

grated, half an ounce of ground allspice; ground cinnamon, mace, ginger,

and corianders, a quarter of an ounce of each, and a gill of brandy.

Put the butter into a stew-pan, in a warm place, and work it into a

smooth cream with the hand, and mix it with the sugar and spice in a pan

(or on your paste board) for some time; then break in the eggs by

degrees, and beat it at least twenty minutes; stir in the brandy, and

then the flour, and work it a little; add the fruit, sweetmeats, and

almonds, and mix all together lightly; have ready a hoop cased with

paper, on a baking-plate; put in the mixture, smooth it on the top with

your hand, dipped in milk; put the plate on another, with sawdust

between, to prevent the bottom from colouring too much: bake it in a

slow oven[376-*] four hours or more, and when nearly cold, ice it with

No. 84.

This mixture would make a handsome cake, full twelve or fourteen inches

over.

_Obs._--If made in cold weather, the eggs should be broken into a pan,

and set into another filled with hot water; likewise the fruit,

sweetmeats, and almonds, laid in a warm place, otherwise it may chill

the butter, and cause the cake to be heavy.

_Bride, or Wedding Cake._--(No. 56.)

The only difference usually made in these cakes is, the addition of one

pound of raisins, stoned and mixed with the other fruit.

_Plain Pound Cake._--(No. 57.)

Cream, as in No. 55, one pound of butter, and work it well together with

one pound of sifted sugar till quite smooth; beat up nine eggs, and put

them by degrees to the butter, and beat them for twenty minutes; mix in

lightly one pound of flour; put the whole into a hoop, cased with paper,

on a baking-plate, and bake it about one hour in a moderate oven.

An ounce of caraway-seeds added to the above, will make what is termed a

rich seed cake.

_Plum Pound Cake._--(No. 58.)

Make a cake as No. 57, and when you have beaten it, mix in lightly half

a pound of currants, two ounces of orange, and two ounces of candied

lemon-peel cut small, and half a nutmeg grated.

_Common Seed Cake._--(No. 59.)

Sift two and a half pounds of flour, with half a pound of good Lisbon or

loaf sugar, pounded into a pan or bowl; make a cavity in the centre, and

pour in half a pint of lukewarm milk, and a table-spoonful of thick

yest; mix the milk and yest with enough flour to make it as thick as

cream (this is called setting a sponge); set it by in a warm place for

one hour; in the meantime, melt to an oil half a pound of fresh butter,

and add it to the other ingredients, with one ounce of caraway-seeds,

and enough of milk to make it of a middling stiffness; line a hoop with

paper, well rubbed over with butter; put in the mixture; set it some

time to prove in a stove, or before the fire, and bake it on a plate

about an hour, in rather a hot oven; when done, rub the top over with a

paste-brush dipped in milk.

_Rich Yest Cake._--(No. 60.)

Set a sponge as in the foregoing receipt, with the same proportions of

flour, sugar, milk, and yest: when it has lain some time, mix it with

three quarters of a pound of butter oiled, one pound and a quarter of

currants, half a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel cut fine, grated

nutmeg, ground allspice and cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of each:

case a hoop as stated No. 59, bake it in a good-heated oven one hour and

a half.

N.B. It may be iced with No. 84, and ornamented as a twelfth cake.

_Queen, or Heart Cakes._--(No. 61.)

One pound of sifted sugar, one pound of butter, eight eggs, one pound

and a quarter of flour, two ounces of currants, and half a nutmeg

grated.

Cream the butter as at No. 55, and mix it well with the sugar and spice,

then put in half the eggs and beat it ten minutes, add the remainder of

the eggs, and work it ten minutes longer, stir in the flour lightly, and

the currants afterward, then take small tin pans of any shape (hearts

the most usual), rub the inside of each with butter, fill and bake them

a few minutes in a hot oven, on a sheet of matted wire, or on a

baking-plate; when done, remove them as early as possible from the pans.

_Queen's Drops._--(No. 62.)

Leave out four ounces of flour from the last receipt, and add two ounces

more of currants, and two ounces of candied peel cut small; work it the

same as in the last receipt, and when ready put the measure into a

biscuit-funnel,[378-*] and lay them out in drops about the size of half

a crown, on white paper; bake them in a hot oven, and, when nearly cold,

take them from the paper.

_Shrewsbury Cakes._--(No. 63.)

Rub well together one pound of pounded sugar, one pound of fresh butter,

and one pound and a half of sifted flour, mix it into a paste, with

half a gill of milk or cream, and one egg, let it lie half an hour, roll

it out thin, cut it out into small cakes with a tin cutter, about three

inches over, and bake them on a clean baking-plate in a moderate oven.

_Banbury Cakes._--(No. 64.)

Set a sponge with two table-spoonfuls of thick yest, a gill of warm

milk, and a pound of flour; when it has worked a little, mix with it

half a pound of currants, washed and picked, half a pound of candied

orange and lemon peel cut small, one ounce of spice, such as ground

cinnamon, allspice, ginger, and grated nutmeg: mix the whole together

with half a pound of honey; roll out puff paste (No. 1,) a quarter of an

inch thick, cut it into rounds with a cutter, about four inches over,

lay on each with a spoon a small quantity of the mixture; close it round

with the fingers in the form of an oval; place the join underneath;

press it flat with the hand; sift sugar over it, and bake them on a

plate a quarter of an hour, in a moderate oven, and of a light colour.

_Bath Buns._--(No. 65.)

Rub together with the hand one pound of fine flour, and half a pound of

butter; beat six eggs, and add them to the flour, &c. with a

table-spoonful of good yest; mix them all together, with about half a

tea-cupful of milk; set it in a warm place for an hour, then mix in six

ounces of sifted sugar, and a few caraway seeds; mould them into buns

with a table-spoon, on a clean baking-plate; throw six or eight caraway

comfits on each, and bake them in a hot oven about ten minutes. This

quantity should make about eighteen.

_Sponge Biscuits._--(No. 66.)

Break into a round-bottomed preserving-pan[379-*] nine good-sized eggs,

with one pound of sifted loaf sugar, and some grated lemon-peel; set the

pan over a very slow fire, and whisk it till quite warm (but not too hot

to set the eggs); remove the pan from the fire, and whisk it till cold,

which may be a quarter of an hour; then stir in the flour lightly with a

spattle; previous to which, prepare the sponge frame as follows:--Wipe

them well out with a clean cloth, rub the insides with a brush dipped in

butter, which has been clarified, and sift loaf sugar over; fill the

frames with the mixture; throw pounded sugar over; bake them five

minutes in a brisk oven: when done, take them from the frames, and lay

them on a sieve.

_Savoy Cake, or Sponge Cake in a Mould._--(No. 67.)

Take nine eggs, their weight of sugar, and six of flour, some grated

lemon, or a few drops of essence of lemon, and half a gill of

orange-flower water, work them as in the last receipt; put in the

orange-flower water when you take it from the fire; be very careful the

mould is quite dry; rub it all over the inside with butter; put some

pounded sugar round the mould upon the butter, and shake it well to get

it out of the crevices: tie a slip of paper round the mould; fill it

three parts full with the mixture, and bake it one hour in a slack oven;

when done, let it stand for a few minutes, and take it from the mould,

which may be done by shaking it a little.

_Biscuit Drops._--(No. 68.)

Beat well together in a pan one pound of sifted sugar with eight eggs

for twenty minutes; then add a quarter of an ounce of caraway seeds, and

one pound and a quarter of flour: lay wafer-paper on a baking-plate, put

the mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and drop it out on the paper about

the size of half a crown; sift sugar over, and bake them in a hot oven.

_Savoy Biscuits._--(No. 69.)

To be made as drop biscuits, omitting the caraways, and quarter of a

pound of flour: put it into the biscuit-funnel, and lay it out about the

length and size of your finger, on common shop paper; strew sugar over,

and bake them in a hot oven; when cold, wet the backs of the paper with

a paste-brush and water: when they have lain some time, take them

carefully off, and place them back to back.

_Italian Macaroons._--(No. 70.)

Take one pound of Valentia or Jordan almonds, blanched, pound them quite

fine with the whites of four eggs; add two pounds and a half of sifted

loaf sugar, and rub them well together with the pestle; put in by

degrees about ten or eleven more whites, working them well as you put

them in; but the best criterion to go by in trying their lightness is

to bake one or two, and if you find them heavy, put one or two more

whites; put the mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and lay them out on

wafer-paper, in pieces about the size of a small walnut, having ready

about two ounces of blanched and dry almonds cut into slips, put three

or four pieces on each, and bake them on wires, or a baking-plate, in a

slow oven.

_Obs._--Almonds should be blanched and dried gradually two or three days

before they are used, by which means they will work much better, and

where large quantities are used, it is advised to grind them in a mill

provided for that purpose.

_Ratafia Cakes._--(No. 71.)

To half a pound of blanched bitter, and half a pound of sweet, almonds,

put the whites of four eggs; beat them quite fine in a mortar, and stir

in two pounds and a quarter of loaf sugar, pounded and sifted; rub them

well together with the whites (by degrees) of nine eggs (try their

lightness as in the last receipt); lay them out from the biscuit-funnel

on cartridge-paper, in drops about the size of a shilling, and bake them

in a middling-heated oven, of a light brown colour, and take them from

the papers as soon as cold.

N.B. A smaller pipe must be used in the funnel than for other articles.

_Almond Sponge Cake._--(No. 72.)

Pound in a mortar one pound of blanched almonds quite fine, with the

whites of three eggs; then put in one pound of sifted loaf sugar, some

grated lemon-peel, and the yelks of fifteen eggs--work them well

together: beat up to a solid froth the whites of twelve eggs, and stir

them into the other ingredients with a quarter of a pound of sifted dry

flour: prepare a mould as at No. 67; put in the mixture, and bake it an

hour in a slow oven: take it carefully from the mould, and set it on a

sieve.

_Ratafia Cake._--(No. 73.)

To be made as above, omitting a quarter of a pound of sweet, and

substituting a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds.

_Diet Bread Cake._--(No. 74.)

Boil, in half a pint of water, one pound and a half of lump sugar; have

ready one pint of eggs, three parts yelks, in a pan; pour in the sugar,

and whisk it quick till cold, or about a quarter of an hour; then stir

in two pounds of sifted flour; case the inside of square tins with white

paper; fill them three parts full; sift a little sugar over, and bake it

in a warm oven, and while hot remove them from the moulds.

_Orange Gingerbread._--(No. 75.)

Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine flour, and add to it a pound and

three quarters of treacle, six ounces of candied orange-peel cut small,

three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one ounce of ground ginger,

and one ounce of allspice: melt to an oil three quarters of a pound of

butter; mix the whole well together, and lay it by for twelve hours;

roll it out with as little flour as possible, about half an inch thick;

cut it into pieces three inches long and two wide; mark them in the form

of checkers with the back of a knife; put them on a baking-plate about a

quarter of an inch apart; rub them over with a brush dipped into the

yelk of an egg beat up with a tea-cupful of milk; bake it in a cool oven

about a quarter of an hour: when done, wash them slightly over again,

divide the pieces with a knife (as in baking they will run together).

_Gingerbread Nuts._--(No. 76.)

To two pounds of sifted flour, put two pounds of treacle, three quarters

of a pound of moist sugar, half a pound of candied orange-peel cut

small, one ounce and a half of ground ginger, one ounce of ground

caraways, and three quarters of a pound of butter oiled: mix all well

together, and set it by some time; then roll it out in pieces about the

size of a small walnut; lay them in rows on a baking-plate; dress them

flat with the hand, and bake them in a slow oven about ten minutes.

_Plain Buns._--(No. 77.)

To four pounds of sifted flour put one pound of good moist sugar; make a

cavity in the centre, and stir in a gill of good yest, a pint of

lukewarm milk, with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of

cream; cover it over, and let it lie two hours; then melt to an oil (but

not hot) one pound of butter, stir it into the other ingredients, with

enough warm milk to make it a soft paste; throw a little flour over, and

let them lie an hour; have ready a baking-platter rubbed over with

butter; mould with the hand the dough into buns, about the size of a

large egg; lay them in rows full three inches apart; set them in a warm

place for half an hour, or till they have risen to double their size;

bake them in a hot oven of a good colour, and wash them over with a

brush dipped into milk when drawn from the oven.

_Cross Buns._--(No. 78.)

To the above mixture put one ounce and a half of ground allspice,

cinnamon, and mace, mixed; and when half proved, press the form of a

cross with a tin mould (made for the purpose) in the centre, and proceed

as above.

_Seed Buns._--(No. 79.)

Take two pounds of plain bun dough (No. 77), and mix in one ounce of

caraway seeds; butter the insides of small tart-pans; mould the dough

into buns, and put one in each pan; set them to rise in a warm place;

and when sufficiently proved, ice them with the white of an egg beat to

a froth, and laid on with a paste-brush; some pounded sugar upon that,

and dissolve it with water splashed from the brush: bake them in a warm

oven about ten minutes.

_Plum Buns._--(No. 80.)

To two pounds of No. 77 mixture, put half a pound of currants, a quarter

of a pound of candied orange-peel cut into small pieces, half a nutmeg

grated, half an ounce of mixed spice, such as allspice, cinnamon, &c.:

mould them into buns; jag them round the edge with a knife, and proceed

as with plain buns, No. 77.

_Orgeat._--(No. 81.)

Pound very fine one pound of Jordan, and one ounce of bitter, almonds,

in a marble mortar, with half a gill of orange-flower water to keep them

from oiling; then mix with them one pint of rose and one pint of

spring-water; rub it through a tamis cloth or lawn sieve, till the

almonds are quite dry, which will reduce the quantity to about a quart:

have ready three pints of clarified sugar or water, and boil it to a

crack (which may be known by dipping your fingers into the sugar, and

then into cold water; and if you find the sugar to crack in moving your

finger, it has boiled enough); put in the almonds; boil it one minute,

and when cold put it into small bottles close corked; a table-spoonful

of which will be sufficient for a tumbler of water: shake the bottle

before using.

_Obs._--If the orgeat is for present use, the almonds may be pounded as

above, and mixed with one quart of water, one quart of milk, a pint of

capillaire or clarified sugar, rubbed through a tamis or fine sieve, and

put into decanters for use.

_Baked Pears._--(No. 82.)

Take twelve large baking pears; pare and cut them into halves, leaving

the stem about half an inch long; take out the core with the point of a

knife, and place them close together in a block-tin saucepan, the inside

of which is quite bright, with the cover to fit quite close; put to them

the rind of a lemon cut thin, with half its juice, a small stick of

cinnamon, and twenty grains of allspice; cover them with spring-water,

and allow one pound of loaf-sugar to a pint and a half of water: cover

them up close, and bake them for six hours in a very slow oven: they

will be quite tender, and of a bright colour.

_Obs._--Prepared cochineal is generally used for colouring the pears;

but if the above is strictly attended to, it will be found to answer

best.

_To dry Apples._--(No. 83.)

Take biffins, or orange or lemon-pippins; the former are the best;

choose the clearest rinds, and without any blemishes; lay them on clean

straw on a baking-wire; cover them well with more straw; set them into a

slow oven; let them remain for four or five hours; draw them out and rub

them in your hands, and press them very gently, otherwise you will burst

the skins; return them into the oven for about an hour; press them

again; when cold, if they look dry, rub them over with a little

clarified sugar.

_Obs._--By being put into the oven four or five times, pressing them

between each time, they may be brought as flat, and eat as well, as the

dried biffins from Norfolk.

_Icing, for Twelfth or Bride Cake._--(No. 84.)

Take one pound of double-refined sugar, pounded and sifted through a

lawn sieve; put into a pan quite free from grease; break in the whites

of six eggs, and as much powder blue as will lie on a sixpence; beat it

well with a spattle for ten minutes; then squeeze in the juice of a

lemon, and beat it till it becomes thick and transparent. Set the cake

you intend to ice in an oven or warm place five minutes; then spread

over the top and sides with the mixture as smooth as possible. If for a

wedding-cake only, plain ice it; if for a twelfth cake, ornament it with

gum paste, or fancy articles of any description.

_Obs._--A good twelfth cake, not baked too much, and kept in a cool dry

place, will retain its moisture and eat well, if twelve months old.

_To boil Sugar to Caramel._--(No. 85.)

Break into a small copper or brass pan one pound of refined sugar; put

in a gill of spring-water; set it on a fire; when it boils skim it quite

clean, and let it boil quick, till it comes to the degree called crack;

which may be known by dipping a tea-spoon or skewer into the sugar, and

letting it drop to the bottom of a pan of cold water; and if it remains

hard, it has attained that degree: squeeze in the juice of half a lemon,

and let it remain one minute longer on the fire; then set the pan into

another of cold water: have ready moulds of any shape; rub them over

with sweet oil; dip a spoon or fork into the sugar, and throw it over

the mould in fine threads, till it is quite covered: make a small handle

of caramel, or stick on two or three small gum paste rings, by way of

ornament, and place it over small pastry of any description.

_A Croquante of Paste._--(No. 86.)

Roll out paste, as No. 8, about the eighth of an inch thick; rub over a

plain mould with a little fresh butter; lay on the paste very even, and

equally thin on both sides; pare it round the rim; then with a small

penknife cut out small pieces, as fancy may direct, such as diamonds,

stars, circles, sprigs, &c.; or use a small tin cutter of any shape: let

it lie to dry some time, and bake it a few minutes in a slack oven, of a

light colour: remove it from the mould, and place it over a tart, or any

other dish of small pastry.

_Derby or Short Cakes._--(No. 87.)

Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of sifted

flour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and one

egg; mix all together with half a pint of milk: roll it out thin, and

cut them into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean

baking-plate, and put them into a middling-heated oven for about five

minutes.

_Egg and Ham Patties._--(No. 88.)

Cut a slice of bread two inches thick, from the most solid part of a

stale quartern loaf: have ready a tin round cutter, two inches diameter;

cut out four or five pieces, then take a cutter two sizes smaller, press

it nearly through the larger pieces, then remove with a small knife the

bread from the inner circle: have ready a large stew-pan full of boiling

lard; fry them of a light-brown colour, drain them dry with a clean

cloth, and set them by till wanted; then take half a pound of lean ham,

mince it small; add to it a gill of good brown sauce; stir it over the

fire a few minutes, and put a small quantity of Cayenne pepper and

lemon-juice: fill the shapes with the mixture, and lay a poached egg

(No. 546) upon each.

_Damson, or other Plum Cheese._--(No. 89.)

Take damsons that have been preserved without sugar; pass them through a

sieve, to take out the skins and stones. To every pound of pulp of fruit

put half a pound of loaf sugar, broke small; boil them together till it

becomes quite stiff; pour it into four common-sized dinner plates,

rubbed with a little sweet oil; put it into a warm place to dry, and

when quite firm, take it from the plate, and cut it into any shape you

choose.

N.B. Damson cheese is generally used in desserts.

_Barley Sugar._--(No. 90.)

Clarify, as No. 475, three pounds of refined sugar; boil it to the

degree of _cracked_ (which may be ascertained by dipping a spoon into

the sugar, and then instantly into cold water, and if it appears

brittle, it is boiled enough); squeeze in a small tea-spoonful of the

juice, and four drops of essence of lemon, and let it boil up once or

twice, and set it by a few minutes: have ready a marble slab, or smooth

stone, rubbed over with sweet oil; pour over the sugar; cut it into long

stripes with a large pair of scissors; twist it a little, and when cold,

keep it from the air in tin boxes or canisters.

_N.B._ A few drops of essence of ginger, instead of lemon, will make

what is called ginger barley sugar.

_Barley Sugar Drops._--(No. 91.)

To be made as the last receipt. Have ready, by the time the sugar is

boiled sufficiently, a large sheet of paper, with a smooth layer of

sifted loaf sugar on it; put the boiled sugar into a ladle that has a

fine lip; pour it out, in drops not larger than a shilling, on to the

sifted sugar; when cold, fold them up separately in white paper.

N.B. Some use an oiled marble slab instead of the sifted sugar.

_Raspberry Jam._--(No. 92.)

Rub fresh-gathered raspberries, taken on a dry day, through a wicker

sieve; to one pint of the pulp put one pound of loaf sugar, broke small;

put it into a preserving-pan over a brisk fire; when it begins to boil,

skim it well, and stir it twenty minutes; put into small pots; cut white

paper to the size of the top of the pot; dip them in brandy, and put

them over the jam when cold, with a double paper tied over the pot.

Strawberry jam is made the same way, and the scarlets are most proper

for that purpose.

_Apricot, or any Plum Jam._--(No. 93.)

After taking away the stones from the apricots, and cutting out any

blemishes they may have; put them over a slow fire, in a clean stew-pan,

with half a pint of water; when scalded, rub them through a hair-sieve:

to every pound of pulp put one pound of sifted loaf-sugar; put it into a

preserving-pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well, and

throw in the kernels of the apricots, and half an ounce of bitter

almonds, blanched; boil it a quarter of an hour fast, and stirring it

all the time; remove it from the fire, and fill it into pots, and cover

them as at No. 92.

N.B. Green gages or plums may be done in the same way, omitting the

kernels or almonds.

_Lemon Chips._--(No. 94.)

Take large smooth-rinded Malaga lemons; race or cut off their peel into

chips with a small knife (this will require some practice to do it

properly); throw them into salt and water till next day; have ready a

pan of boiling water, throw them in and boil them tender. Drain them

well: after having lain some time in water to cool, put them in an

earthen pan, pour over enough boiling clarified sugar to cover them, and

then let them lie two days; then strain the syrup, put more sugar, and

reduce it by boiling till the syrup is quite thick; put in the chips,

and simmer them a few minutes, and set them by for two days: repeat it

once more; let them be two days longer, and they will be fit to candy,

which must be done as follows: take four pints of clarified sugar,

which will be sufficient for six pounds of chips, boil it to the degree

of _blown_ (which may be known by dipping the skimmer into the sugar,

and blowing strongly through the holes of it; if little bladders appear,

it has attained that degree); and when the chips are thoroughly drained

and wiped on a clean cloth, put them into the syrup, stirring them about

with the skimmer till you see the sugar become white; then take them out

with two forks; shake them lightly into a wire sieve, and set them into

a stove, or in a warm place to dry.

N.B. Orange chips are done in the same way.

_Dried Cherries._--(No. 95.)

Take large Kentish cherries, not too ripe; pick off the stalks, and take

out the stones with a quill, cut nearly as for a pen: to three pounds of

which take three pounds or pints of clarified sugar--(see No. 475,) boil

it to the degree of blown (for which see last receipt); put in the

cherries, give them a boil, and set them by in an earthen pan till the

next day; then strain the syrup, add more sugar, and boil it of a good

consistence; put the cherries in, and boil them five minutes, and set

them by another day: repeat the boiling two more days, and when wanted,

drain them some time, and lay them on wire sieves to dry in a stove, or

nearly cold oven.

_Green Gages preserved in Syrup._--(No. 96.)

Take the gages when nearly ripe; cut the stalks about half an inch from

the fruit; put them into cold water, with a lump of alum about the size

of a walnut; and set them on a slow fire till they come to a simmer:

take them from the fire, and put them into cold water; drain, and pack

them close into a preserving-pan; pour over them enough clarified sugar

to cover them; simmer them two or three minutes; set them by in an

earthen pan till next day, when drain the gages, and boil the syrup with

more sugar, till quite thick; put in the gages, and simmer them three

minutes more, and repeat it for two days; then boil clarified sugar to a

blow, as at No. 94, place the gages into glasses, and pour the syrup

over, and, when cold, tie over a bladder, and upon that a leather; and

should you want any for drying, drain and dry them on a wire sieve in a

stove or slow oven.

Apricots or egg plums may be done in the same way.

_To preserve Ginger._--(No. 97.)

Take green ginger, pare it neatly with a sharp knife; throw it into a

pan of cold water as it is pared, to keep it white; when you have

sufficient, boil it till tender, changing the water three times; each

time put it into cold water to take out the heat or spirit of the

ginger; when tender, throw it into cold water: for seven pounds of

ginger, clarify eight pounds of refined sugar, see No. 475; when cold,

drain the ginger, and put it in an earthen pan, with enough of the

sugar, cold, to cover it, and let it stand two days; then pour the syrup

from the ginger to the remainder of the sugar; boil it some time, and

when cold, pour it on the ginger again, and set it by three days at

least. Then take the syrup from the ginger; boil it, and put it hot over

the ginger; proceed in this way till you find the sugar has entered the

ginger, boiling the syrup, and skimming off the scum that rises each

time, until the syrup becomes rich as well as the ginger.

_Obs._--If you put the syrup on hot at first, or if too rich, the ginger

will shrink, and not take the sugar.

N.B. When green ginger is not to be procured, take large races of

Jamaica ginger boiled several times in water till tender, pare neatly,

and proceed as above.

_To preserve Cucumbers._--(No. 98.)

Take large and fresh-gathered cucumbers; split them down and take out

all the seeds; lay them in salt and water that will bear an egg, three

days; set them on a fire with cold water, and a small lump of alum, and

boil them a few minutes, or till tender; drain them, and pour on them a

thin syrup; let them lie two days; boil the syrup again, and put it over

the cucumbers; repeat it twice more; then have ready some fresh

clarified sugar, boiled to a blow (see No. 94); put in the cucumbers,

and simmer it five minutes; set it by till next day; boil the syrup and

cucumbers again, and set them in glasses for use.

_Preserved Fruit, without Sugar._--(No. 99.)

Take damsons when not too ripe; pick off the stalks, and put them into

wide-mouthed glass bottles, taking care not to put in any but what are

whole, and without blemish; shake them well down (otherwise the bottles

will not be half full when done); stop the bottles with new soft corks,

not too tight; set them into a very slow oven (nearly cold) four or five

hours; the slower they are done the better; when they begin to shrink

in the bottles, it is a sure sign that the fruit is thoroughly warm:

take them out, and before they are cold, drive in the corks quite tight;

set them in a bottle-rack or basket, with the mouth downwards, and they

will keep good several years.

Green gooseberries, morello cherries, currants, green gages, or bullace,

may be done the same way.

_Obs._--If the corks are good, and fit well, there will be no occasion

for cementing them; but should bungs be used, it will be necessary.

_Bread._--(No. 100.)

Put a quartern of flour into a large basin, with two tea-spoonfuls of

salt; make a hole in the middle; then put in a basin four

table-spoonfuls, of good yest; stir in a pint of milk, lukewarm; put it

in the hole of the flour; stir it just to make it of a thin batter; then

strew a little flour over the top; then set it on one side of the fire,

and cover it over: let it stand till the next morning; then make it into

dough; add half a pint more of warm milk; knead it for ten minutes, and

then set it in a warm place by the fire for one hour and a half; then

knead it again, and it is ready either for loaves or bricks: bake them

from one hour and a half to two hours, according to the size.

_French Bread and Rolls._--(No. 100*.)

Take a pint and a half of milk; make it quite warm; half a pint of

small-beer yest; add sufficient flour to make it as thick as batter; put

it into a pan; cover it over, and keep it warm: when it has risen as

high as it will, add a quarter of a pint of warm water, and half an

ounce of salt,--mix them well together;--rub into a little flour two

ounces of butter; then make your dough, not quite so stiff as for your

bread; let it stand for three quarters of an hour, and it will be ready

to make into rolls, &c.: let them stand till they have risen, and bake

them in a quick oven.

SALLY LUNN.--_Tea Cakes._--(No. 101.)

Take one pint of milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint of thick

small-beer yest; put them into a pan with flour sufficient to make it as

thick as batter,--cover it over, and let it stand till it has risen as

high as it will, _i. e._ about two hours: add two ounces of lump sugar,

dissolved in a quarter of a pint of warm milk,[391-*] a quarter of a

pound of butter rubbed into your flour very fine; then make your dough

the same as for French rolls, &c.; and let it stand half an hour; then

make up your cakes, and put them on tins: when they have stood to rise,

bake them in a quick oven.

Care should be taken never to put your yest to water or milk too hot, or

too cold, as either extreme will destroy the fermentation. In summer it

should be lukewarm, in winter a little warmer, and in very cold weather,

warmer still.

When it has first risen, if you are not prepared, it will not hurt to

stand an hour.

_Muffins._--(No. 102.)

Take one pint of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of thick

small-beer yest; strain them into a pan, and add sufficient flour to

make it like a batter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place

until it has risen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and one

ounce of butter rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together:

then add sufficient flour to make it into dough, cover it over, and let

it stand half an hour; then work it up again, and break it into small

pieces: roll them up quite round, and cover them over for a quarter of

an hour; then bake them.

_Crumpets._--(No. 103.)

The same: instead of making the mixture into dough, add only sufficient

flour to make a thick batter, and when it has stood a quarter of an hour

it will be ready to bake.

Muffins and crumpets bake best on a stove with an iron plate fixed on

the top; but they will also bake in a frying-pan, taking care the fire

is not too fierce, and turning them when lightly browned.

_Yorkshire Cakes._--(No. 104.)

Take a pint and a half of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of

thick small-beer yest; mix them well together in a pan with sufficient

flour to make a thick batter; let it stand in a warm place covered over

until it has risen as high as it will; rub six ounces of butter into

some flour till it is quite fine; then break three eggs into your pan

with the flour and butter; mix them well together; then add sufficient

flour to make it into a dough, and let it stand a quarter of an hour;

then work it up-again, and break it into pieces about the size of an

egg, or larger, as you may fancy; roll them round and smooth with your

hand, and put them on tins, and let them stand covered over with a light

piece of flannel.

FOOTNOTES:

[376-*] The goodness of a cake or biscuit depends much on its being well

baked; great attention should be paid to the different degrees of heat

of the oven: be sure to have it of a good sound heat at first, when,

after its being well cleaned out, may be baked such articles as require

a hot oven, after which such as are directed to be baked in a

well-heated or moderate oven; and, lastly, those in a slow soaking or

cool one. With a little care the above degrees may soon be known.

In making butter cakes, such as Nos. 55, 57, or 61, too much attention

cannot be paid to have the butter well creamed; for should it be made

too warm, it would, cause the mixture to be the same, and when put to

bake, the fruit, sweetmeats, &c. would, in that event, fall to the

bottom.

Yest cakes should be well proved before put into the oven, as they will

prove but little afterward.

In making biscuits and cakes where butter is not used, the different

utensils should be kept free from all kinds of grease, or it is next to

impossible to have good ones.

In buttering the insides of cake-moulds, the butter should be nicely

clarified, and when nearly cold, laid on quite smooth, with a small

brush kept for that purpose.

Sugar and flour should be quite dry, and a drum sieve is recommended for

the sugar. The old way of beating the yelks and whites of eggs separate

(except in very few cases), is not only useless, but a waste of time.

They should be well incorporated with the other ingredients, and, in

some instances, they cannot be beaten too much.

[378-*] Take fine brown Holland, and make a bag in the form of a cone,

about five inches over at the top. Cut a small hole at the bottom, and

tie in a small pipe of a tapering form, about two inches long; and the

bore must be large or small, according to the size of the biscuits or

cakes to be made. When the various mixtures are put in, lay the pipe

close to the paper, and press it out in rows.

Some use a bullock's bladder for the purpose.

[379-*] A wide-mouthed earthen pan, made quite hot in the oven, or on a

fire, will be a good substitute.

[391-*] If you do not mind the expense, the cake will be much lighter

if, instead of the milk, you put four eggs.

OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PIES.

The quality of the various articles employed in the composition of

puddings and pies varies so much, that two puddings, made exactly

according to the same receipt, will be so different[392-*] one would

hardly suppose they were made by the same person, and certainly not with

precisely the same quantities of the (apparently) same ingredients.

Flour fresh ground, pure new milk, fresh laid eggs, fresh butter, fresh

suet, &c. will make a very different composition, than when kept till

each article is half spoiled.

Plum puddings, when boiled, if hung up in a cool place in the cloth they

are boiled in, will keep good some months; when wanted, take them out of

the cloth, and put them into a clean cloth, and as soon as warmed

through, they are ready.

MEM.--In composing these receipts, the quantities of eggs, butter, &c.

are considerably less than are ordered in other cookery books; but quite

sufficient for the purpose of making the puddings light and

wholesome;--we have diminished the expense, without impoverishing the

preparations; and the rational epicure will be as well pleased with them

as the rational economist.

Milk, in its genuine state, varies considerably in the quantity of cream

it will throw up, depending on the material with which the cow is fed.

The cow that gives the most milk does not always produce the most cream,

which varies fifteen or twenty per cent.

Eggs vary considerably in size; in the following receipts we mean the

full-sized hen's egg; if you have only pullet's eggs, use two for one.

Break eggs one by one into a basin, and not all into the bowl together;

because then, if you meet with a bad one, that will spoil all the rest:

strain them through a sieve to take out the treddles.

N.B. To preserve eggs for twelve months, see N.B. to No. 547. Snow, and

small beer, have been recommended by some economists as admirable

substitutes for eggs; they will no more answer this purpose than as

substitutes for sugar or brandy.

Flour, according to that champion against adulteration, Mr. Accum,

varies in quality as much as any thing.

Butter also varies much in quality. Salt butter may be washed from the

salt, and then it will make very good pastry.

Lard varies extremely from the time it is kept, &c. When you purchase

it, have the bladder cut, and ascertain that it be sweet and good.

Suet. Beef is the best, then mutton and veal; when this is used in very

hot weather, while you chop it, dredge it lightly with a little flour.

Beef-marrow is excellent for most of the purposes for which suet is

employed.

Drippings, especially from beef, when very clean and nice, are

frequently used for kitchen crusts and pies, and for such purposes are a

satisfactory substitute for butter, lard, &c. To clean and preserve

drippings, see No. 83.

Currants, previous to putting them into the pudding, should be plumped:

this is done by pouring some boiling water upon them: wash them well,

and then lay them on a sieve or cloth before the fire, pick them clean

from the stones;--this not only makes them look better, but cleanses

them from all dirt.

Raisins, figs, dried cherries, candied orange and lemon-peel, citron,

and preserves of all kinds, fresh fruits, gooseberries, currants, plums,

damsons, &c. are added to batter and suet puddings, or enclosed in the

crust ordered for apple dumplings, and make all the various puddings

called by those names.

Batter puddings must be quite smooth and free from lumps; to ensure

this, first mix the flour with a little milk, add the remainder by

degrees, and then the other ingredients.

If it is a plain pudding, put it through a hair-sieve; this will take

out all lumps effectually.

Batter puddings should be tied up tight: if boiled in a mould, butter it

first; if baked, also butter the pan.

Be sure the water boils before you put in the pudding; set your stew-pan

on a trivet over the fire, and keep it steadily boiling all the

time;--if set upon the fire, the pudding often burns.

Be scrupulously careful that your pudding-cloth is perfectly sweet and

clean; wash it without any soap, unless very greasy; then rinse it

thoroughly in clean water after. Immediately before you use it, dip it

in boiling water; squeeze it dry, and dredge it with flour.

If your fire is very fierce, mind and stir the puddings every now and

then to keep them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan; if in a

mould, this care is not so much required, but keep plenty of water in

the saucepan.

When puddings are boiled in a cloth, it should be just dipped in a basin

of cold water, before you untie the pudding-cloth, as that will prevent

it from sticking; but when boiled in a mould, if it is well buttered,

they will turn out without. Custard or bread puddings require to stand

five minutes before they are turned out. They should always be boiled in

a mould or cups.

Keep your paste-board, rolling-pin, cutters, and tins very clean: the

least dust on the tins and cutters, or the least hard paste on the

rolling-pin, will spoil the whole of your labour.

Things used for pastry or cakes should not be used for any other

purpose; be very careful that your flour is dried at the fire before you

use it, for puff paste or cakes; if damp it will make them heavy.

In using butter for puff paste, you should take the greatest care to

previously work it well on the paste-board or slab, to get out all the

water and buttermilk, which very often remains in; when you have worked

it well with a clean knife, dab it over with a soft cloth, and it is

then ready to lay on your paste; do not make your paste over stiff

before you put in your butter.

For those who do not understand making puff paste, it is by far the best

way to work the butter in at two separate times, divide it in half, and

break the half in little bits, and cover your paste all over: dredge it

lightly with flour, then fold it over each side and ends, roll it out

quite thin, and then put in the rest of the butter, fold it, and roll it

again. Remember always to roll puff paste from you. The best made paste,

if not properly baked, will not do the cook any credit.

Those who use iron ovens do not always succeed in baking puff paste,

fruit pies, &c. Puff paste is often spoiled by baking it after fruit

pies, in an iron oven. This may be easily avoided, by putting two or

three bricks that are quite even into the oven before it is first set to

get hot. This will not only prevent the syrup from boiling put of the

pies, but also prevent a very disagreeable smell in the kitchen and

house, and almost answers the same purpose as a brick oven.

_College Puddings._--(No. 105.)

Beat four eggs, yelks and whites together, in a quart basin, with two

ounces of flour, half a nutmeg, a little ginger, and three ounces of

sugar; pounded loaf sugar is best. Beat it into a smooth batter; then

add six ounces of suet, chopped fine, six of currants, well washed and

picked; mix it all well together; a glass of brandy or white wine will

improve it. These puddings are generally fried in butter or lard; but

they are much nicer baked in an oven in patty-pans; twenty minutes will

bake them: if fried, fry them till they are of a nice light brown, and

when fried, roll them in a little flour. You may add one ounce of orange

or citron, minced very fine; when you bake them, add one more egg, or

two spoonfuls of milk. Serve them up with white wine sauce.

_Rice Puddings baked, or boiled._--(No. 106.)

Wash in cold water and pick very clean six ounces of rice, put it in a

quart stew-pan three parts filled with cold water, set it on the fire,

and let it boil five minutes; pour away the water, and put in one quart

of milk, a roll of lemon peel, and a bit of cinnamon; let it boil gently

till the rice is quite tender; it will take at least one hour and a

quarter; be careful to stir it every five minutes; take it off the fire,

and stir in an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and beat up three eggs

on a plate, a salt-spoonful of nutmeg, two ounces of sugar; put it into

the pudding, and stir it till it is quite smooth; line a pie-dish big

enough to hold it with puff paste, notch it round the edge, put in your

pudding, and bake it three quarters of an hour: this will be a nice firm

pudding.

If you like it to eat more like custard, add one more egg, and half a

pint more milk; it will be better a little thinner when boiled; one hour

will boil it. If you like it in little puddings, butter small tea-cups,

and either bake or boil them, half an hour will do either: you may vary

the pudding by putting in candied lemon or orange-peel, minced very

fine, or dried cherries, or three ounces of currants, or raisins, or

apples minced fine.

If the puddings are baked or boiled, serve them with white-wine sauce,

or butter and sugar.

_Ground Rice Pudding._--(No. 107.)

Put four ounces of ground rice into a stew-pan, and by degrees stir in a

pint and a half of milk; set it on the fire, with a roll of lemon and a

bit of cinnamon; keep stirring it till it boils; beat it to a smooth

batter; then set it on the trivet, where it will simmer gently for a

quarter of an hour; then beat three eggs on a plate, stir them into the

pudding with two ounces of sugar and two drachms of nutmeg, take out the

lemon-peel and cinnamon, stir it all well together, line a pie-dish with

thin puff paste (No. 1 of receipts for pastry), big enough to hold it,

or butter the dish well, and bake it half an hour; if boiled, it will

take one hour in a mould well buttered; three ounces of currants may be

added.

_Rice Snow Balls._--(No. 108.)

Wash and pick half a pound of rice very clean, put it on in a saucepan

with plenty of water; when it boils let it boil ten minutes, drain it on

a sieve till it is quite dry, and then pare six apples, weighing two

ounces and a half each. Divide the rice into six parcels, in separate

cloths, put one apple in each, tie it loose, and boil it one hour; serve

it with sugar and butter, or wine sauce.

_Rice Blancmange._--(No. 109.)

Put a tea-cupful of whole rice into the least water possible, till it

almost bursts; then add half a pint of good milk or thin cream, and boil

it till it is quite a mash, stirring it the whole time it is on the

fire, that it may not burn; dip a shape in cold water, and do not dry

it; put in the rice, and let it stand until quite cold, when it will

come easily out of the shape. This dish is much approved of; it is eaten

with cream or custard, and preserved fruits; raspberries are best. It

should be made the day before it is wanted, that it may get firm.

This blancmange will eat much nicer, flavoured with spices, lemon-peel,

&c., and sweetened with a little loaf sugar, add it with the milk, and

take out the lemon-peel before you put in the mould.

_Save-all Pudding._--(No. 110.)

Put any scraps of bread into a clean saucepan; to about a pound, put a

pint of milk; set it on the trivet till it boils; beat it up quite

smooth; then break in three eggs, three ounces of sugar, with a little

nutmeg, ginger, or allspice, and stir it all well together. Butter a

dish big enough to hold it, put in the pudding, and have ready two

ounces of suet chopped very fine, strew it over the top of the pudding,

and bake it three quarters of an hour; four ounces of currants will

make it much better.

_Batter Pudding, baked or boiled._--(No. 111.)

Break three eggs in a basin with as much salt as will lie on a sixpence;

beat them well together, and then add four ounces of flour; beat it into

a smooth batter, and by degrees add half a pint of milk: have your

saucepan ready boiling, and butter an earthen mould well, put the

pudding in, and tie it tight over with a pudding-cloth, and boil it one

hour and a quarter. Or, put it in a dish that you have well buttered,

and bake it three quarters of an hour.

Currants washed and picked clean, or raisins stoned, are good in this

pudding, and it is then called a black cap: or, add loaf sugar, and a

little nutmeg and ginger without the fruit,--it is very good that way;

serve it with wine sauce.

_Apple Pudding boiled._--(No. 112.)

Chop four ounces of beef suet very fine, or two ounces of butter, lard,

or dripping; but the suet makes the best and lightest crust; put it on

the paste-board, with eight ounces of flour, and a salt-spoonful of

salt, mix it well together with your hands, and then put it all of a

heap, and make a hole in the middle; break one egg in it, stir it well

together with your finger, and by degrees infuse as much water as will

make it of a stiff paste: roll it out two or three times, with the

rolling-pin, and then roll it large enough to receive thirteen ounces of

apples. It will look neater if boiled in a basin, well buttered, than

when boiled in a pudding-cloth, well floured; boil it an hour and three

quarters: but the surest way is to stew the apples first in a stew-pan,

with a wine-glassful of water, and then one hour will boil it. Some

people like it flavoured with cloves and lemon-peel, and sweeten it with

two ounces of sugar.

Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and cherries, damsons, and various

plums and fruits, are made into puddings with the same crust directed

for apple puddings.

_Apple Dumplings._--(No. 113.)

Make paste the same as for apple pudding, divide it into as many pieces

as you want dumplings, peel the apples and core them, then roll out your

paste large enough, and put in the apples; close it all round, and tie

them in pudding-cloths very tight; one hour will boil them: and when you

take them up, just dip them in cold water, and put them in a cup the

size of the dumpling while you untie them, and they will turn out

without breaking.

_Suet Pudding or Dumplings._--(No. 114.)

Chop six ounces of suet very fine: put it in a basin with six ounces of

flour, two ounces of bread-crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of salt; stir it

all well together: beat two eggs on a plate, add to them six

table-spoonfuls of milk, put it by degrees into the basin, and stir it

all well together; divide it into six dumplings, and tie them separate,

previously dredging the cloth lightly with flour. Boil them one hour.

This is very good the next day fried in a little butter. The above will

make a good pudding, boiled in an earthenware mould, with the addition

of one more egg, a little more milk, and two ounces of suet. Boil it two

hours.

N.B. The most economical way of making suet dumplings, is to boil them

without a cloth in a pot with beef or mutton; no eggs are then wanted,

and the dumplings are quite as light without: roll them in flour before

you put them into the pot; add six ounces of currants, washed and

picked, and you have currant pudding: or divided into six parts, currant

dumplings; a little sugar will improve them.

_Cottage Potato Pudding or Cake._--(No. 115.)

Peel, boil, and mash, a couple of pounds of potatoes: beat them up into

a smooth batter, with about three quarters of a pint of milk, two ounces

of moist sugar, and two or three beaten eggs. Bake it about three

quarters of an hour. Three ounces of currants or raisins may be added.

Leave out the milk, and add three ounces of butter,--it will make a very

nice cake.

FOOTNOTES:

[392-*] An old gentlewoman, who lived almost entirely on puddings, told

us, it was a long time before she could get them made uniformly good,

till she made the following rule:--"If the pudding was good, she let the

cook have the remainder of it; if it was not, she gave it to her

lapdog;" but as soon as this resolution was known, poor little Bow-wow

seldom got the sweet treat after.

OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES.

We are not fond of pickles: these sponges of vinegar are often very

indigestible, especially in the crisp state in which they are most

admired. The Indian fashion of pounding pickles is an excellent one: we

recommend those who have any regard for their stomach, yet still wish to

indulge their tongue, instead of eating pickles, which are really

merely vehicles for taking a certain portion of vinegar and spice, &c.

to use the flavoured vinegars; such as burnet (No. 399), horseradish

(No. 399*), tarragon (No. 396), mint (No. 397), cress (Nos. 397*, 401,

403, 405*, 453, 457), &c.; by combinations of these, a relish may easily

be composed, exactly in harmony with the palate of the eater.

The pickle made to preserve cucumbers, &c. is generally so strongly

impregnated with garlic, mustard, and spice, &c. that the original

flavour of the vegetables is quite overpowered; and if the eater shuts

his eyes, his lingual nerves will be puzzled to inform him whether he is

munching an onion or a cucumber, &c., and nothing can be more absurd,

than to pickle plums, peaches, apricots, currants, grapes, &c.

The strongest vinegar must be used for pickling: it must not be boiled

or the strength of the vinegar and spices will be evaporated. By

parboiling the pickles in brine, they will be ready in much less time

than they are when done in the usual manner, of soaking them in cold

salt and water for six or eight days. When taken out of the hot brine,

let them get cold and quite dry before you put them into the pickle.

To assist the preservation of pickles, a portion of salt is added; and

for the same purpose, and to give flavour, long pepper, black pepper,

allspice, ginger, cloves, mace, garlic, eschalots, mustard, horseradish,

and capsicum.

The following is the best method of preparing the pickle, as cheap as

any, and requires less care than any other way.

Bruise in a mortar four ounces of the above spices; put them into a

stone jar with a quart of the strongest vinegar, stop the jar closely

with a bung, cover that with a bladder soaked with pickle, set it on a

trivet by the side of the fire for three days, well shaking it up at

least three times in the day; the pickle should be at least three inches

above the pickles. The jar being well closed, and the infusion being

made with a mild heat, there is no loss by evaporation.

To enable the articles pickled more easily and speedily to imbibe the

flavour of the pickle they are immersed in, previously to pouring it on

them, run a larding-pin through them in several places.

The spices, &c. commonly used, are those mentioned in the receipt for

pickling walnuts; which is also an excellent savoury sauce for cold

meats.

The flavour may be varied _ad infinitum_ by adding celery, cress-seed,

or curry powder (No. 455), or by taking for the liquor any of the

flavoured vinegars, &c. we have enumerated above, and see the receipts

between Nos. 395 and 421.

Pickles should be kept in a dry place, in unglazed earthenware, or

glass jars, which are preferable, as you can, without opening them,

observe whether they want filling up: they must be very carefully

stopped with well-fitted bungs, and tied over as closely as possible

with a bladder wetted with the pickle; and if to be preserved a long

time, after that is dry, it must be dipped in bottle-cement; see page

127.

When the pickles are all used, boil up the liquor with a little fresh

spice.

To walnut liquor may be added a few anchovies and eschalots: let it

stand till it is quite clear, and bottle it: thus you may furnish your

table with an excellent savoury keeping sauce for hashes, made dishes,

fish, &c. at very small cost; see No. 439.

Jars should not be more than three parts filled with the articles

pickled, which should be covered with pickle at least two inches above

their surface; the liquor wastes, and all of the articles pickled, that

are not covered, are soon spoiled.

When they have been done about a week, open the jars, and fill them up

with pickle.

Tie a wooden spoon, full of holes, round each jar to take them out with.

If you wish to have gherkins, &c. very green, this may be easily

accomplished by keeping them in vinegar, sufficiently hot, till they

become so.

If you wish cauliflowers, onions, &c. to be white, use distilled vinegar

for them.

To entirely prevent the mischief arising from the action of the acid

upon the metallic utensils usually employed to prepare pickles, the

whole of the process is directed to be performed in unglazed stone jars.

N.B. The maxim of "open your mouth, and shut your eyes," cannot be

better applied than to pickles; and the only direction we have to record

for the improvement of their complexion, is the joke of Dr. Goldsmith,

"If their colour does not please you, send 'em to Hammersmith, that's

the way to Turnham Green."

Commencing the list with walnuts, I must take this opportunity of

impressing the necessity of being strictly particular in watching the

due season; for of all the variety of articles in this department to

furnish the well-regulated store-room, nothing is so precarious, for

frequently after the first week that walnuts come in season, they become

hard and shelled, particularly if the season is a very hot one;

therefore let the prudent housekeeper consider it indispensably

necessary they should be purchased as soon as they first appear at

market; should they cost a trifle more, that is nothing compared to the

disappointment of finding, six months hence, when you go to your

pickle-jar, expecting a fine relish for your chops, &c. to find the nuts

incased in a shell, which defies both teeth and steel.

Nasturtiums are to be had by the middle of July.

Garlic, from Midsummer to Michaelmas.

Eschalots, ditto.

Onions, the various kinds for pickling, are to be had, by the middle of

July, and for a month after.

Gherkins are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after.

Cucumbers are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after.

Melons and mangoes are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month

after.

Capsicums, green, red, and yellow, the end of July, and following month.

Chilies, the end of July, and following month. See Nos. 404 and 405*,

and No. 406.

Love apples, or tomatas, end of July, and throughout August. See No.

443.

Cauliflower, for pickling, July and August.

Artichokes, for pickling, July and August.

Jerusalem artichokes, for pickling, July and August, and for three

months after.

Radish pods, for pickling, July.

French beans, for pickling, July.

Mushrooms, for pickling and catchup, September. See No. 439.

Red cabbage, August.

White cabbage, September and October.

Samphire, August.

Horseradish, November and December.

_Walnuts._--(No. 116.)

Make a brine of salt and water, in the proportion of a quarter of a

pound of salt to a quart of water; put the walnuts into this to soak for

a week; or if you wish to soften them so that they may be soon ready for

eating, run a larding-pin through them in half a dozen places--this will

allow the pickle to penetrate, and they will be much softer, and of

better flavour, and ready much sooner than if not perforated: put them

into a stew-pan with such brine, and give them a gentle simmer; put them

on a sieve to drain; then lay them on a fish plate, and let them stand

in the air till they turn black--this may take a couple of days; put

them into glass, or unglazed stone jars; fill these about three parts

with the walnuts, and fill them up with the following pickle.

To each quart of the strongest vinegar put two ounces of black pepper,

one of ginger, same of eschalots, same of salt, half an ounce of

allspice, and half a drachm of Cayenne. Put these into a stone jar;

cover it with a bladder, wetted with pickle, tie over that some leather,

and set the jar on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days,

shaking it up three times a day, and then pour it while hot to the

walnuts, and cover them down with bladder wetted with the pickle,

leather, &c.

_Gherkins._--(No. 117.)

Get those of about four inches long, and an inch in diameter, the crude

half-grown little gherkins usually pickled are good for nothing. Put

them into (unglazed) stone pans; cover them with a brine of salt and

water, made with a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; cover

them down; set them on the earth before the fire for two or three days

till they begin to turn yellow; then put away the water, and cover them

with hot vinegar; set them again before the fire; keep them hot till

they become green (this will take eight or ten days); then pour off the

vinegar, having ready to cover them a pickle of fresh vinegar, &c., the

same as directed in the preceding receipt for walnuts (leaving out the

eschalots); cover them with a bung, bladder, and leather. Read the

observations on pickles, p. 487.

_Obs._--The vinegar the gherkins were greened in will make excellent

salad sauce, or for cold meats. It is, in fact, superlative cucumber

vinegar.

_French Beans--Nasturtiums, &c._--(No. 118.)

When young, and most other small green vegetables, may be pickled the

same way as gherkins.

_Beet Roots._--(No. 119.)

Boil gently till they are full three parts done (this will take from an

hour and a half to two and a half); then take them out, and when a

little cooled, peel them, and cut them in slices about half an inch

thick. Have ready a pickle for it, made by adding to each a quart of

vinegar an ounce of ground black pepper, half an ounce of ginger

pounded, same of salt, and of horseradish cut in thin slices; and you

may warm it, if you like, with a few capsicums, or a little Cayenne;

put these ingredients into a jar; stop it close, and let them steep

three days on a trivet by the side of the fire; then, when cold, pour

the clear liquor on the beet-root, which have previously arranged in a

jar.

_Red Cabbage._--(No. 120.)

Get a fine purple cabbage, take off the outside leaves, quarter it, take

out the stalk, shred the leaves into a colander, sprinkle them with

salt, let them remain till the morrow, drain them dry, put them into a

jar, and cover them with the pickle for beet roots.

_Onions._--(No. 121.)

The small round silver button onions, about as big as a nutmeg, make a

very nice pickle. Take off their top coats, have ready a stew-pan, three

parts filled with boiling water, into which put as many onions as will

cover the top: as soon as they look clear, immediately take them up with

a spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth three times folded, and

cover them with another till you have ready as many as you wish: when

they are quite dry, put them into jars, and cover them with hot pickle,

made by infusing an ounce of horseradish, same of allspice, and same of

black pepper, and same of salt, in a quart of best white-wine vinegar,

in a stone jar, on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days,

keeping it well closed; when cold, bung them down tight, and cover them

with bladder wetted with the pickle and leather.

_Cauliflowers or Broccoli._--(No. 122.)

Choose those that are hard, yet sufficiently ripe, cut away the leaves

and stalks.

Set on a stew-pan half full of water, salted in proportion of a quarter

of a pound of salt to a quart of water; throw in the cauliflower, and

let it heat gradually; when it boils take it up with a spoon full of

holes, and spread them on a cloth to dry before the fire, for

twenty-four hours at least; when quite dry, put them, piece by piece,

into jars or glass tie-overs, and cover them with the pickle we have

directed for beet roots, or make a pickle by infusing three ounces of

the curry powder (No. 455) for three days in a quart of vinegar by the

side of the fire.

Nasturtiums are excellent prepared as above.

_Indian or mixed Pickles--Mango or Piccalilli._--(No. 123.)

The flavouring ingredients of Indian pickles are a compound of curry

powder, with a large proportion of mustard and garlic.

The following will be found something like the real mango pickle,

especially if the garlic be used plentifully. To each gallon of the

strongest vinegar put four ounces of curry powder (No. 455), same of

flour of mustard (some rub these together, with half a pint of salad

oil), three of ginger bruised, and two of turmeric, half a pound (when

skinned) of eschalots slightly baked in a Dutch oven, two ounces of

garlic prepared in like manner, a quarter of a pound of salt, and two

drachms of Cayenne pepper.

Put these ingredients into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder wetted

with the pickle, and set it on a trivet by the side of the fire during

three days, shaking it up three times a day; it will then be ready to

receive gherkins, sliced cucumbers, sliced onions, button onions,

cauliflowers, celery, broccoli, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums,

and small green melons. The latter must be slit in the middle

sufficiently to admit a marrow-spoon, with which take out all the seeds;

then parboil the melons in a brine that will bear an egg; dry them, and

fill them with mustard-seed, and two cloves of garlic, and bind the

melon round with packthread.

Large cucumbers may be prepared in like manner.

Green peaches make the best imitation of the Indian mango.

The other articles are to be separately parboiled (excepting the

capsicums) in a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg;

taken out and drained, and spread out, and thoroughly dried in the sun,

on a stove, or before a fire, for a couple of days, and then put into

the pickle.

Any thing may be put into this pickle, except red cabbage and walnuts.

It will keep several years.

_Obs._--To the Indian mango pickle is added a considerable quantity of

mustard-seed oil, which would also be an excellent warm ingredient in

our salad sauces.

HOUSEKEEPERS' MANUAL.

VARIOUS USEFUL FAMILY RECEIPTS.

_To prevent Beer becoming Flat after it is drawn._

[343-*] To increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this pudding,